The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 12, 1902, Page 7

FHoTo.s BY STANFORD STUPIO- pe must e t he ladies of e us at every turn. hey our thea y are &t our receptions, where the grande be seen; they are on our streets, in our shops. They call up pic- tures of the gay old court—pictures that make the stale world a new and glitter- odern day i ewest of new s are th r age by centuries sway—great ch plume- as old masters > to a fair face. taken on huge Stern and ff the carpet. re set by either hard a time, man 1 many ackness of most of e hats is a pocrisy: They wear it as who C s We are de e, we flaunt p, likewise, say- berly downcast.” hey hide their dan- T the dip of a black may shoot out—and son’s color. A flash of re and there, ight as f a bird's wing. Here and a show of coronation splen; 1 alluring ne eye as r is. But EY as a bear, softly pussy- to the last edge ers are brim, being great crown, p se round fiz spreads cases almost to e of the The te of the shapes is to dip he flare rakis forward in e flare is far greater thap as dip. The latter is em- hasize e Jong drooping things that over scarfs of silk and of of ribbon. felts are the mOSt. Stunning r eafly fall in the way of tallor ing has quite the smartness of white is perishable, but the little while it lasts ought to be worth several m wear of a less charming h clever and industrious you can deal of cleaning it for yourself, to be put out for reno- The combination of black and white holds. A black and white tailored the Marescot Soeurs is smash- round and nothing about as smashing as its back view. e feit that forms the moderately wice brim forms also a broad, round crown that spreads into some- g of a tam-o'shanter shape. A band ack velvet binds the brim. A fold of velvet pipes the top of the the same crown The bat 1 brim turns up in the back and is caught by big folds of gleaming white silk that wind loosely about the crown and hold a smart little pair of Mercury wings in place at the sides The broad, upturned ck with saucy tilt is a picture all by itself. soft folds of silk divide there, going in each direction toward the front. ‘A peep of the wings may be caught. And across the back, clampmng the whole, stretche a long. narrow, curved buckle of cut jet that brings out the dazzing whiteness of the silk by contrast. A black taffeta hat is a Virot master- piece, and a Virot masterpiece means the most that can be. There never are two Virot hats that are anything alike. When the artist concelves cne idea he carries it cut and then looks about for another .He Goes not get one pattern 2nd repeat it in a hundred or a thousand our wholesale factories do. The big brim of this hat droops in the front and back, rolling the least bit a fascinating coquetry at the sides an alluring hat. It is a its The instances, as with It is irresistible. A of eyes from around under the front i a man might as well throw up his hands. A curious oblong piece of taffeta seems to be laid over the brim. This gives the effect of & square-cornered cover over round table, leaving the square corners to fall. They are caught up in the back cnd allowed to fall loosely over the hair. This piece of taffeta, as well as that of which the crown is made, is embroidered in applique. Even these embroidered bits are all in dead black. Not a touch of volor relieves the hat's sobriety and yet no one would ever think of calling it a sober hat. It is the flattest that a hat can possibly be and still have a crown. The own shows an inclination to droop in the same way that the brim “does, giving a dip to front and back and a lift at the sides. A Hertz Boyer hat dares pretend to be tailored, although It is so dashing and smashing that tailored sounds too severe a word. It is in 4 dull grayish blue feit, splashed with big polka dots of grayish black. A rough hairy nap is thrown up over the whole thing, giving it what the milliners call a “dirty”” evlor. There is hardly a face made that can- not risk a hat like this. The great flar- ing front brim is softening to the lines of the face. It miay be tilted backward a bit for the woman who needs a hat of” the face; it may be thrust forward ang still be equally stylish for the other ha)’ of femininity. “The trimming of the smart affair is on the right side, as the fad of the year di- rects. Just why it should be, nobody cun Everybody knows that the prettier side of a woman’s face is the left; the traditional way of trimming on: that side has been to enhance its prettiness- while the right was. expected to keep in the background. The new fashion appears to be trying to even matters up. The trimming of this particular Hertz Boyer is a strapping big rosette and two quills—dull-colored things that harmon- ize with the dullness of the hat's coloring. The hat that of all these is most con- spicuous in color is the one of white and coronation red. The white is gleaming, say THE SUNDAY A DASH oFr" T ARIILTE PO ATITIELS BRI ZT ORATICr= CHITILLE ZOGERS [AVORS TIRH unlike any ever seen before.. Its broad brim rolls so tightly against the cmown that the hat appears to be narrow. The front of the brim tilts up, although not as much as the sides. In the back it curves off into almost no brim at all; what there is dipping low against the hair. An 0dd ort‘of galloon trimming In black is stitched in five even rows upon the upturned brim. Big black wings, one of the fads of the season, are massed high in front. Lock.d at from the side, the hat fol- lows t ¢ outline of the new hair dress- ing, watca is in a high knot very far forwarc, sloping away into a flat effect at the back of the head. Fur is in again as it-always is with the people Who can afford it, and there is no fur effect as graceful as that in on2 of Camille Rogers' most extravagant mink hats. The artist spares no expensc, neither must the purchaser. The finest mink, of which this immensé hat is made, costs no mean sum. This is so exquisite a specimen of the fur that it can be used with the finest sable and it will, blend perfectly. Crown and brim are entirely covered with ‘the richly shaded brown fur that turns golden here and there In its shad- ing. A little head nods over the brim in front, directly above the tip of miladi's nose. A cluster of tiny tails fall at the back and their color harmonizes wonder- fully with the golden- lights in the hair that ought to appear under this hat. A great scarf of real lace in brown is wreathed about the crown and falls in long ends at the back—ends that teach below the shoulders, Madame Pouyanne has a panchant for daring color and the yellow that she uses M Al oxXED AT BY Z7ri7r AL FHIVER: snowy white, and the red is red as biood. Fancy this on a winter girl, a holly- decked, holly-cheeked girl; .fancy it above one of the new white broacloth coats. Wouldn't the girl tingle, sparkle with Christmas and make the very air around her smack of holiday times? The felt is"as silky and furry as an angora cat. Its brim is bound with a heavy band of red velvet. The trimming is so simple that only seeing is believing that it is sufficient. A knot of snowy tulle; caught in the meshes of it a great red bird with wings Spread daringly over the hat. That is all The swagger Linn Faulkner is responsi- ble for a pearl gray .tailored hat that is' is a deep, flaming burnt orange that is at its most beautiful in a heavy velvet. She never allows more than one touclf of this to appear on any hat, and that touch must be half concealed. A big curving shape of black panne sat- in shows how she uses the color. Under the great shadowing brim, far in against the hair, a knot of the splendid velvet may be seen. It is just enough to assure You that the brunett¢ who wears it is no Miss Prim. Folds ¢ black illusion face the brim. A queer strip of shaggy felt in Oxford gray effect is twisted about the crown and clamped at the back with a jeweled buckle of gold and black diamonds. A little twisted illusion softens the felt, be- ing draped over it. Black diamonds, by the way, are the very newest in the v of jewels for hat ornaments. As for trimmings, Paris has outdone herself this year by introducing fishes, gleaming, met it will probably be a long time before any daring one introduces the fashion here. The milliners are afraid to import it as yet, for society would cry “Outre!” in a horrified- chorus. One hat of chamois skin has appeared, led fishes, but and it was not only a novelty, it was pretty as well. The skin is flexible, more so than the finest felt, and the negative eolor makes a most artistic basis for trim- ming. This one was decorated with shaded yellow, tones ranging all the way from palest corn-color down to the deep- est orange. A mortar board crown js another nov- elty of the season. It will be becoming to almost any face and it can be worked out-in almost any material. There never yet has been such & lavish variety of shapes approved by Dame Fashion as there is in this year of '02. So whatever form of face nature has de- creed you, there is a becoming hat wait- ing for you somewhere. Then if you are one of the women known as “hard to suit”—take heart. —_— —_—— Exercise for Large Hips. For the woman with large hips and domen there is nothing better, accord- ing to a writer in Conkey’s Home Jour- nal, than the old-time trick of trying to touch the floor with the finger tips withe vut bending the knees. Stand up straight, take the soldier's position of chest up, chin up, shoulders firm. Bring the hands above the head, then down to the floor without bending the knees. Do this thirty times night, and morning in a house gown, and with the windows wide open so fresh air is not at a premium, and Fil wager my best Sunday Tuscan straw that you will lose from ten to fifteen pounds within seven or eight weeks, or perhaps even sooner. There is nothing so excellent and effective for suppleness this simple exercise. may prove dif- ficult to accomplish for a time, but by a serfes of up and down motions of the arms the feat can be done very gracefully after very little practice. Place the hands on the hips, inhale deeply and exhale slowly, Do this thirty times, varying the process by walking back and forth across the room or lifting the body on the toes with each breath. This will reduce the size of the abdomen, as it strengthens the muscles which have become relaxed It will also make the waist round and supple. Take your daily sponge bath, vhich must be a speedy going-over the body with a coarse towel and followed with an alcohol rub, if one desires. Then to breakfast—toast, unsweetened coffee, tresh fruit and unfattening viands. s 5 + | | EVER before was there | | ever such | deep inter- est ‘n history in ge cral and American his- tory im particular. ' It finds expression im inrumerable novels and thrilling plays, while the leading magasines are serambling for anything | new or old about the famouas | heroes of the revolutionary war time and their stirring deeds in battle that they can lay hold om. In the past two months none have been more popular than Gemersl George Rogers “Clark, whose wondertul e against General Ham- fiton in Old Vincennes for- ever cleared the great North- west of British rule or mis- rule and his fire-eating nephew, George Groghan, whose defense of Fort Steph- enson, in deflance of his own commander, is ome of the military marvels of history. The magasines have de- voted page after page to these two, but nowhere have | theéir exploits been better shown than in “Alice of Old Vinecennes,” which, besides | beéing one of the most charm ing love stories ever written, is full of hixtorical detmil and stirring emeription. Alice herself i« an historical personage and one of the most maigue heroines in all | the long lis of fiction. Perhapw.. therefore, it will interest you to know that the nday Call will begin the publication of thix zrea novel, by Maurice Thompson, next Sun QOctober 19, and will presemt it complete in three editions. Cam you beat that offer? A $1 30 bopk for 15 cents. g 2