The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 17, 1902, Page 10

10 THE STUNDAY CALL. Creation in Rlack and White Ribbon to Be Worn at the Back oF Neck. AN you tie the new chou? > an art, a fine art, vou have tried it and you can your spare mo- a week upon it. u see the girl behind the rib- er tess a plece of ribbon into g it back in the form of when you notice how _s! tice ists it, pulls and i how, with a final ya to a bow, you wi the whole business is you can go home when you come to the ribbon with and d the act- your own But of nd that it is not quite ¥ chou will have an “ail which characterizes so many d when you put it though it were a your gown rather than an or- chou right; begin right. bbon. If you were to ribbon counter ur ribbon box and o make a summer chou nd the se @ eces she would laugh . to you Bow impossible ing anything fresh out of ur usually works with poor ke the chef in the kitchen who achive & finished dinner and who ve the best products of field and for his manipulations, she should n her hands that which is capable of being made into something nice. ribbons of uncertain lengths uncertain hues, faded sec- e and odd bits of flowers, ng passementeries and ragged never in the world become by being made up into The Bow Material. While 2ll the bow family require nice terial, the rosette is especially sensi- ss the ribbon is good, the ro- ever look mice. The ribbon re critical in its compos: will be dark and dis- s you have the best stuffs o il some ux. sette rose tion and its to to work with. The sash bow will hang listlessly and if made out of ribbon that has and sponged, and the new T will be no chou at all unless you have new material Now understand that it is possible to e old stuff, but it tak 4 to do it. If you ner, or have taken a establishment, you can ribbon box and bring wness and stiffness, but otherwise your work will have a lament- look which is discouraging at the and still more discouraging at ed Buy and then tr is the only home products £hops For the London chou take two yards of ribbon. If you want long ends for the back of your sash take more. If it is for the back of your neck two-yards will be enough. If you want it for your hair one and & helf yards will do, and if it is for your belt you can get along with the same quant! ew, O amateur, before you begin st to your cleverness. That way you can hope to have that look like those of the How to Tie It Teke the ribbon in the middle and hold ft &p in front of you. Pull out one nice long loop, twist the ribbon and make a bowknot, just as you have tied a bow all your life. Do not pull it tightly, but, while the middle is open and loose, make another ulling a loop of ribbon through t, and still another. now have four bows. Grab the nes tightly, one in each hand, and pull. This will tighten your knot. Gradually arrange the ioops, pulling at the knot all the time and twisting it, and keep on doing this until you have four nice bows with two hanging ends and a bhard knot in the middie holding them all. The secret of bow tying is this hard knot in the middle. It ruins your ribbon, of course, and the ribbon can never be used for anything else. The bow cannot be untied, you will understand, but must remain in just that fashion forever, but it you hope for anything that is smart looking you must pull the ribbon hard and meke this middie knot tight, To quote the girl behind the ribbon counter, who i8 the profesional bow mak- er of the establishment and whose busy fingers are at work from morn till night, “The knot is‘the whole thing; puil it tight,” end you will understand it after you have watched her a few minutes and have gone home to tie a bow for your- self. The woman who makes a business of arranging the small things of dress de- ciares that she depends upon the ribbon ornaments this year for the summer touches of the costume. two upper 8Sald she: “I buy ribbon by the bolt and make it up by the bow. There are as p.any bows there are hands to tle tbem, and 1 have personally designed thousands for the framing of the gowns that pass through my hands. “One of my latest devices with ribbon is to cover buttons with it. I tie & neat lit- tle bow, no bigger than a quarter, and into the knot I slip 2 button in such a way that the shank can be used. This makes & very neat ornament and the bow looks brighter and stays in place bet- ter than If it were sewed on tight and fiat.” Ribbon Devices, Another way to use narrow ribbon is through lace. You thread a blunt needle with ribbon and you work lace with it, You work' the Jace by going around the pattern with the ribbon, and so you make a very durable trimming that is a little different from applique and much less work. The dress of the iate season tnreatens to become more ribbon trimmed than that of the early year. There is a new fancy for taking a wide ribbon and running it through the hat brim just as though you were taking long stitches. Five or six stitches of the ribbon will go all the way around the brim and the whole is tied at the back in a bow, with ends that hang right down to the stock. The stock is treated similarly and one of the new arrangements shows ribbon two inches wide threaded through the stock -perfectly flat and tied at the back in a bow. Nearly all of the new trimmings have ribbon, either for a foundation or ribbon in them; and it looks as though autumn modes would be largely founded upon rib- bon designs. It is a pity that this materlal cannot be made cheaper, for really there is nothing much more expensive to buy and to use than ribbon itself. Those who are of an economical turn of mind and who do not mind a little work <an buy taffeta siik and make their ribbon. A yard of taffeta, cut on the bias and hemmed on each side, or doubled and neatly finished, will rcally make a great deal of ribbon. This is just a suggestion for the woman who wants to look nice and who does not want to pay the price. Mrs. Fish’s Spots. The spotted vogue has been given a great impetus by the gowns which Mrs. Stiyvesant Fish brought from London. Mrs. Fish has several handsome dresses, trimmed with chenille spots. They are thicker and heavier than velvet and are put on as though they were woven in the silk, as indeed they may be. Wonderful things are now done with silks in the looms. There may be beauti- ful velvet dots, and dots of chenille; and dots even of chiffon can be purchased, all in the piece goods, but such fabrics are -among the high priced; and if you want to get up something which has a similar effect you can take chenille spots, ob- tained In any shape, and fasten them upon your silk by applique or by invisible stitches. A very effective gown belonging to Mrs, Fish is in ecru silk linen; in groups of three there are very large chenille spots, one in scarlet, one in green and one in blue. ; These groups are scattered all over the EBOWn about one-half yard apart. And between these groups, which are really rather widely separated, there are enor- mous French knots—a perfect sprinkling of them done in black, You must not hope to get up anything £0ood in the dress line without calling upon black. This really s a foundation or back- Ing for everything and you must have a littie of it or you cannot be in the.mode. When Mrs. Belmont went abroad this summer to joln her daughter, the Duchess of Mariborough, she took with her half & dozen beautifyl gowns which were made in this country. They were In the thin goods, with siik finish, and they showsad the “spot.” This spot, which the French call the “rain drop,” and which has been known for all time as the * dot,” was car- " ried out in lace, in velvet and in taffeta; tm (tiact. all materials seemed to contribute o One gown, which was a very beautiful thing in black taffeta, had big spots of turquolse panne and in the center of each spot thers was another one of white lace and underneath the white lace spot was a dot of geranium velvet. It makes the brain whirl to think of the number of stitches that are needed for the dotting of the new skirts and waists, but the dotted effect must be obtained, no matter how much the work. The mak- ing of the fine gowns of fall is as critical and as prduous as lace work and often it requires as skillful a professional hand. In the great conglomeration of styles which can be noticed at the season’s close, a few features stand forth promi- nently. . One of the most consplicuous garments to be noticed is the lace jacket, and this &\lst now be found in every fashionable ardrobe, and, indeed, in any wardrobe of any pretensions whatever. Now, to have a lace jacket does not mean a great deal, for lace is cheap and it is something that is easily handled. Any woman can make herself such a jacket, provided she have the lace, and in thiese days when this delicate fabric can be obtained for upward of 50 cents a yard, there is little need of lamenting the lack of it. Miss Hay, who is to be married In a short time, wears a very pretty lace Jacket in white lined with a dull crepe de chine. The jacket is in Italian lace, made by hand, and of a pure white non-lustrous hue that is almost a mourning dace. Its lining is dull crepe and it is cut off above the belt and the lining is box pleated front and back, while. the outside is straight. A little band of black crepe de chine outlines the neck or shoulder front and back and on each side of the front thers are ribbon choux in bunches like little rosettes, with dozens of hanging ends about one finger long. In Black and White. Miss Hay, whose gowns are always so delightfully tasteful, and whose trousseau , is being built on two continents, wears black and white, for she has not yet cast off mourning, and fer gowns ara really a delightful study in these two con- trasts. She is a stylish girl and wears the long coat a great deal, for it becomes her well. The loose coat is made In threa- length and in half-length, ang ons ir on fashionable as the other, although the half-length is much more trying. A coat Which is cut off above the belt and which is loose, constructed on the automabils order, can never fit the figure, and unless you are slender and lithe you will find that it glves you a stout look, The black lace coat, half length, fs fust the thing for wearing to automobile e~ nics, which are now the Gotham ad, and, under the black lace coat thers i3 an elaborate lining in color with inset of lace, ans there may hel :ge:lg} plique of flower petals. ‘Linings a 2nd more gorgeous, i It is indeed a time when we look to our Inings, and, with a nice lining, your gown is elegant, even though the gown itseif has not recelved very careful attention. In the novelties there are _checked eilk linings, which are worn. under tha veilings and under the shot outsides of all kinds, and a very new wrinkle is to teke the checked lining and applique it with rain drops of taffeta, and over this you can wear your thin gown. The greatest attention is given to fancy Hnings, and professional dress designers are always at work upon them. Mrs. Clarence Mackay, who comes to the fore as a leader In dress, wore to tha races a gown In gray velling shot with¥/ turquoise blue put on in arrow shape, long, like the rain drop. The lining turquoise and white checked silk, and this checked silk there were black loz- enges in taffeta, appliqued over the checks and e whole used as a slip un- derneath this velling dress. Turquoise and Black. Mrs. Mackay’s hat on this occasion was in turquoise blue felt, a very summery affair, and on her hair, at the right side, there lay two long feathers, one in black and one in white. Her gloves were suede, black, very long and over them fell a low- er_sleeve of chiffon lined with lace. Her skirts, which are always very much trimmed with lace ruffles, boasted on this occasion fully four white lace flounces, growing wider in the back and extending half way up the skirt in Span- ish flounce fashion. All the society world now turns to the races. In France this has ever been so, and on the gdays when the great races ars run the President and his wife and all of his family and the nobles and their fam- ilies go to_the races and occupy faVored seats on the grand stand. In England the Derby has a soclal sta- tus and no one questions the right of his Majesty nor his Majesty’s friends to adopt the course as an afternoon’s amuse- ment. But in this country horse racing has never enjoyed a social standing. The new world was too busy to bother with sports. and it is only within the last twenty-fi years, or, more correctly still, the last five years, that horse racing has attained a so- cial prominence. Now all the people of wealth are going into it, and great stables are owmed by the Mackays, Belmonts, Vanderbilts, Whitneys, Wilsons and other familes note(é in the business as well as the social world., Harry Payne Whitney, who married Gertrude Vanderbilt, has recently run horses under the green and white and at the fashionable race tracks around New York and at the Saratoga track you see the wearing of the green and the flying of the horses with their green jockeys astride. Racing Colors Rulea It may be that Dame Fashion will very kindly consent to adopt the fashionabl racing colors as her own, and that we shall see in this countr{ & taking up of the high-class stable colors, just as they do in Londonm, and as they have always done in Paris. If you look closely you can detect them here now. All the trend of dress is toward the plc- turesque, and this is carried to an ex- tent which might be called showy. Gowns are built, not on the quiet, neat, tailored, severe, classic order, but om the frilled and fluffy style. Little extravaganzas are indulged in. The women. who never thought it good form to wear. flowing ends are now tripping through the streets with their hands grasping flying scarfs. Long cloaks have their great streamers dangling from the front and from the back. Immense taffeta flyers hang from the neck and from between the shoulders, and the Watteau woman 4s seen on Fifth avenue as well as in her native haunt, the meadow lawn. For the woman who wants to dress in costume, this is a great season, for she can do so and be In the height of fashion. She can select whatever extremes are becoming to her and dress almost eccea- trically, yet ever a la mode. For women who have found the straight fashions not becoming to taeir own style of beauty, this wide variance is a pleas- ing one,” and they dress in long, loose garments or in abbreviated designs such as the bolero, the Eton, the short New- port jacket, the new blazer, the Norfolk and the stralght, front, without departing from the domains of direct fashion. In Hosiery’s Realm. Hoslery is keeping pace with other fash- fons. White siik stockings are the lat- est, and they are embroidered in colors and Inset with lace figures. To get up a pair of white silk stockings you can buy the plain ones. Choose a pair In cream—almost a flesh color—for they are more becoming to the skin. Do not “get pink stockings, but those that are a little off the color of dead white. “Let your,embroidered designs be put on in such a way that they simu- late a boot top. Sew turquoise on the cutside, to look like shoe buttons; now, around the calf of the leg set in lace designs and around each lace design run an embroidery in biue. Stockings of this kind must be cleaned, not tubbed. And you must learn how to renovate such parts of the stockings -~s are solled without wetting the whole. There are dainty ways of keeping silk stockings nice throughout the season, and really a white stocking is meant only for the piazza or for your own room; it is not for the street. The gown, while it is important, plays as on a small part compared to the hat, the parasol, gloves, . shoes, stock and small arts of dress: and it is upon t h P the style of the woman depend: are the touches which determin the appearance of the gown, but tual character. By suitable trimmings you can trans- form a tailored gown Into a picture dress and you can work wonders by the addition of flowers, lace yokes and adjustable flounces. & t only its ac-