The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 10, 1902, Page 15

Gone Wild Over m and Newport | y GCetting the | Craze—Mrs. Martin Wears | Fruit at Her Neck—The | Langtry Semi-Skirt — The Pless Pompadour — Nellie Grant’s Daughter in Blue. By Augusta Prescott. ROM green to red Dame Fashion red with startling sudden- their last penny n getting green for hat and gown e dame who arbi- res that green shall d-put on instead r can it be called or any of y far from h held the v in the*sprine. s long been known as the red. hade borrowed from the It matches the ripe straw- be he luscious raspberry, the center of the watermelon, the outside of the p nd the Yed of the ripest side in the actuality. Ct berries peaches, little a ty known 2s™‘love appl re grouped and worn, or worn separat ¥, to trim the backs of hats or the sides. are also arranged in the middle on, ribbon choux as & Choux ‘of Fruit. rt there is a pretty fad, start- Peter Martin, for wearing neck. Mrs. Martin wears a pendant from their green gt her throat, where they are a diamond bar. At her belt d. The plums are of they nestle in the eep panne velvet ribbon. bow there hang very give the straight, tall no one can notice the t noticing its height. st be tall and those who short are indulging in ev- device of dress to make But “long” is a better for a woman must look sinewy, al- in her outline. st be very tight around her ater still around her knees; below the knees, it must fall in lines sweep the feet and sweep the floor sweep the ground far behind her. briefly the idea which the appear- ence of the woman must give—the long, sweeping length. ey are trying,to ruffie skirts and women who dress in the extreme mode have a_ few of these ruffied skirts and them now and then, but they do them on as a rule, for the im- on of shortness is always conveyed skirt, which is trimmed round and round, and you canmnot get away from fit. If you are a woman of 6 feet—and 1 society women, including Mrs. e nearly y vear these skirts that or trimmed round and round; feet 2 or 3 inches, to look tall, you shion when you and if ‘you must forego Dame F have your skirts mafle and look after only the long lengths. The semi-ski rather shortening in its effect unless it be worn in the Langtry ry semi-skirt is a fad n apd Queen Alex 1 that she likes Mrs. Langtry’s Skirt. First there is an underskirt which is uch trimmed and very very lon fry t there comes the se: er which is just e unders After it is put d or draped and the lower ound the knees with a ha aid in folds atch on,” to use a or not, just as feminine to make such a semi-skirt, best petticoat—one that is ilied and which looks exact- lift- the back. Ar- it in r that the front lies in pla knees the back hangs 1 < If you experiment with it in front of a cheval glass you will get the idea. The semi-gkirt and, indeed, all summer skirts, for a sash. Three things which are necess season with every gown are a bow for the back of the bair, a stock and sash. T bow for the back of the hair may 2 and the stock. Very few women, vy buy a hat, consider the way are going to wear their ere_are certain hats which are specially for the high coiffure, and are other hats that are bulit for the low. The hat which goes with the low colf- s hanging in the back, and v be little sash ends of ribbon, of lace, or may be mil- The effect. of the flowers is as if they pushed off the hat 50 as to hang a little on the hair. Study Your Hat. If you are in doubt as to the way to wear your hat, with the low coiffure, or with the high, t rake for yourself a bow, which you must wear at the back of your neck. Let it be of black satin lined with velvet, or vice versa. Make up the bow so that it has four loops; 2 wind mill bow is very good; let the loops point in four directions; run a hairpin through the back, and stick the pin into your low coiffure. The Holland bow is excellent, and, as the name sug s, it bears a Hollandese type. It is made of Delft blue satin. There are four loops, two pointing to the right and two to the left. Two of the loops are longer than the other two, and from the front the two long loops are visible. They set out at each side of the head and rather frame the face. The face frame is one of the most con- spicuous things of this summer’s fashions, The hair is dressed wide at the side and the bat trimmings are arranged o give breadth to the head. This calls also for a coiffure that is low, so as to form a setting for the back of the head, the neck snd the ears. The wide hair bow accen- tuates this effect, for the loops show at the side. If your doubt the becomingness of the face frame, stand in front of your mirror and try both methods. Arrange = your hair once very smoothly, drag it back from your face and put on your hat plainly, without any attempt at the lit- tle ornamentations which are so notice- able in the season’s fashions. Now look at'yourself and see how try- irg the style is. If you have defects, they are brought out, and your face looks SUNDAY CALL. - "SUNME PEARERSOT; .7, b PART COLLAR 18 A FEATURE OF THE GRASS GOWwW N hard in outline, for there is nothing to frame your features. The Fluffy Sides. Try the effect of arranging your halr full at the sides. Wear it over the Pless pompadour, which is a temple “rat ranged at each temple with the hair ‘drawn over it. After you have puffed your hair wave it, and let it set out around your face like an aureole Na- ture really designed your hair in this fashion, and it is only your own folly which draws it back from the temples, where it is meant to curl or le. Put on your hat and let the flowers which are put under the side, upon the bandeau, show from the front, and fin- ish your work with a Delft bow at the back: You will look a different person, and Dame Fashion, seeing yov will nod her approval. Fruit red is worn in the newest gowns; its color pervades the lawns and challies the foulards, the batistes and even the durable cheviots. You .‘can .trace it thiough the very thin fabrics which are to be worn over linings, and you can see it in the parasol which miladi flings over her shoulder and which frames her face 80 becomingly. .Its.deep, partly subdued red casts a glow over the complexion and gives you the flush which you want to have. It is not the poppy red which looks so blowsy on a hot day, nor is it the brilliant ‘rosé which' is so suspicious a tinge, but it 1s the color of health and, in selecting it for her summer shade, the woman of fashion has shown her discre- on which ever marks her mature judg- ment. The Advantage-, ‘f Red. - At the lawn party—fo. it is now,_ the season of the lawn party—you notice many of the shades of red mingling and combining most harmonfously; in fact, this is the only color which goes well with itself. Green becomes jealous of its sister shade, and to get two greens that harmonize is very difficult, but with red it is different, and all reds seem able to dwell in one family. Mrs. Arthur Paget wore at a lawn par- ty—an afternoon affair—a gown of peach red lawn. It had a silk finish, and its Ilning was peach red silk. The lining, if 50 handsome a thing can be called by so homely a name, had a band of lace set in across the bust. The lace was the filet lace which has so captured the feminine fancy, and it was put in insertion fashion, from under-arm seam to under-arm seam, right across tne front. The silk lawn was absolutely plain over this handsome lining, and look- ed more like a velling. The semi-skirt was managed in the same harmonious fashion, but in a differ- ent way. Here the filet lace began at the belt, and extended downward in panels. There werd six panels in the skirt, the longest being in the migdle of the front, and the shorter ones at the sides and back; then came one of those great frills around the foot, side-pleated and tralned. The New Blue. The sweep skirt is so deservedly popu- lar that there i3 little chance that it will disappear this fall. Women will go In carriages and those who do not travel in this fashion will hold up the skirt with both hands. For the street pale cloth costumes will be worn and blue will lead. The Sartoris girls, who are such beau- tles, and who cleim so much attention from the fact that suitors are ever af- ter them, dress charmingly this summer in the pastel colors. They wear very pale blues, those that are called light duck’s egg, pale turquoise, faded ultramarine and visionary blue. And, by the way, vis- forary blue is the latest thing. It is some- thing like cloud blue and a very little like oyster gray. It is a - clear-cloudy color. Truth to tell; it takes an expert to dis- tingush these shades, and you look at a blue and a gray and wonder which is which—which the blue and which the gray. As the season comes to a close, for sea- sons end a month before their time, Dame Fashion gets more and more out of doors. The lawn party which seemed too early and too cool, too unripe as it wers, in June, now rages, and at Newport and Saratoga, at Tuxedo and everywhere they are glving lawn parties daily. To have a lawn party you need have & lawn ne bigger than a pocket handkerchief. Your guests arrive and are welcomed on the porch or in the drawing-room, then out- side they go to drink tea on the bit of green and to tell each other how charming the day and how delightful the occasion. Changing the Sleeve. Dame Fashion invariably selects the hue of the season as her own. She looks about her, picks out the colors of nature and -then hies off to get fabrics that cor- respond, and this explains her vogue for the fruit colors. At Newport they are doing a clever thing; they are remodeling all the early gowns of the season to fit this last month of summer, when fashions change. They change not 8o much in the siirt and waist as in the neck and sleeves. At this mo- ment all the sleeves are big between the elbow and the wrist and they are big in a new way. The balloon is fashionable and so is the mandolin, which is slashed at the back with the end pulled out in some fashion. Another sleeve that Is smart is the Robespierre, which has a cuft turn2d straight back above the elbow and setting out in very brusque fashion, as though it were a piece of armor. But the latest sleeve, the sleeve which they call the Newport sleeve, Is one which is shaped exactly like a water- melon. - In certaln poses {t looks like an egg, for it is pointed at one end. This sleeve beging at the elbow and ends at the wrist, The small part is at the elbow and the big part is at the wrist. It is made out of a melon-shaped plece of silk, which s guthered at the elbow and fastzned ca to an_elbow sleeve. At the wrist it s lald in little side pleats and fastened to a deep cuff of lace. The New London Sleeve. The new London sleeve is a little Aif- & ferent. Like the Newport, it Begins at the elbow, but it is a side-pleated affalr throughout, and it is not gathered into & cuff at the wrist. To make it in an amateurish way, take two yards of chiffon side pleated and gather or lay this chiffon upon a band of silk ribbon one inch wide; let the ribben be just long enough to go around your arm at the elbow. Sew this to your el- bow sleeve and let the chiffon hang. It will make a sort of angel sleeve, which will 'be very becoming to your whole arm and will set off your hand beautifully. At lawn parties the study just now Ix the sleeve. Really, you see so many varie- t'es that you wonder if there are any more Inventions possible. There are as many sleeves as there are gowns and each woman seems to have invented a sleeve to fit her new dress. No modiste with any fashionable pre- tent:ons would make two pairs of sleeves alike, and you will find the dressmacers running riot in tancy as they design the lewer hal? o ycur sleevos. But the uppers of sleeves, t0o, are re~ celving attention. A sleeve upper worn by Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont a short time ago showed a wide piece of rose point lace. It looked more like an imitation lace than the real, and the fact that the roses were cut out bodily and appliqued upon net adds strength to this suggestion. The upper balf of the sleeve was lace and the under half was leaf brown taf- eta, tucked. The sleeve was the elbow sleeve and the lower half was net lace with & cuff of rose point. A Trimming of Petals. Rose petals are much used in making er rather in trimming summer gowns. You do not buy a new summer dress now, but you remodel your old one so that it will carry you through the remainder of the season. That this is an important thing can be at once understood, for the season is by no means at an end, and gowns must be mede presentable for the next few ‘weeks, Very often the most important part of & season comes just at the close, for now all have entered into the spirit of the summer, and whers thers were a few en~ tertalnments early, a great many can now be numbered and these are much movre elegantly gowned than those of the early season. To remodel an old gown take rose petals. You may buy them in the shopa If you are away from home you can take an old artificlal flower and cut it careful- ly apart; take the petals and lay them upon your old lawn dress and sew them in place. Do it carefully, for a cheap trimming is worse than none. This is one way to cover up spdts and an excellent way to rejuvenate an old gown. If so please you, group the petals Im small, careless designs, and this is really tho prettiest way to arrange them. A handsome gown, in.sea shell pink batiste, was scattered with the petals of an old silk rose; groups of half a dozen were ap- pliqued upon the skirt and upon the walst and upon the upper parts of the sleeves. It made a charming trimming and each group was finished with a little shirring of Lilliputian ribbon In pale pink gath- ered upon each edge and put in a eircle around the groups of petals. It is appalling to think ef the work upon the new gowns and absolutely ter- rifying to look forward to fall. Then the cloth gowns will be worn and the work must be very carefully done. English Styles London whispers that the new cloth gowns will have lace inlaid under the yoke and in the shirts. This means very careful handling, for the cloth is heavy and the light treatment which is possible with the delicate mulls and sheer fab- rics of summer would never pass muster en the broadcloths, ladies’ cloths and cashmere and the satin serges of fall But why borrow trouble, for each sea- son brings its compensations' and, when styles become complicated, the manufac- turers very kindly adapt their weaves to the modes and you are able to buy fagot stitching or hemstitching, cat stitching and cross stitching, all beautifully done by machine ready to be made into the up=- to-date gowns of fall and winter. There is a possibility that accordion plaited skirts will return and a certainty that tucks will stay in style. On the new cloth gowns there is a trimming running up and down between the tucks and very often this trimming is handsome and elaborate, though very narrow. ‘It is applied to the surface of the goods and is one of the prettiest and most no~ ticeable features of the dress.