The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 8, 1902, Page 15

t'\‘\,\\\n \ er where the matinee Tripping events g back of the the matinee the same exactly me result, but ther, fellow. kind that affords ing and holding ve caught him,” one 1 say, and the to the face of g a sr he real seeing would pro- and ends will his watch charm, and there it possessed of evil kes two hands, much fumbling osen, by this time, victim, and not infrequently the-wisp thing is responsible n on the side. demure appearing 1s smiles to - , just a suspi- ¢ white. The part that encircles er many ears, and they stand on onds spread like a peacock’s tail A e edge runs a double frill of £0ft black ribbon stitched with white silk. b: play the mischief. a 'leven,” and you ands of the ribbon are for length, and eleven the opposite direc- ced effect. About the 1 pleating of soft chiffon, is finished with the black str thoroughly smart look- the amount of damage work can do. Even the the street car Is ches out and out in not exempt quest of game One more billowy Ah for they is made of white plece, well covered with give stabllity to ‘the ma- The collar i made of yards and of double ruching, packed in as as they possibly can be. The wit edge another double ite ribbon stitched with black and the two are put together on what one call the blas. The conse- quence s en individuality of each row and the thread of black winds here and there with remarkable distinctness. The tabs are straight pieces of veiling with round- ed ends. B plain ruffic finishes ea the ‘rt and teb m -end bow of double-faced " velvet ribbon, and half way down the tab, or at about the waist line, another bow breaks the mo- notony One inexperienced in line of gobis would natur: that ribbon an inch and a not only I too heavy for the frail material, but that it would look so as well. But it rea does not. The touch of black is the mak- ing of the ruff, for unless some liberties taken of them would look exactly alike, barring color. A swagger ail one for evening wear is made of the softest kind of white chiffon. Jt is made In four layers and each one is decidedly sepa and distinct. The lower is of the chiffon, but heavily edged with black chiffon ribbon. The next is a ruffie of the white absolutely plain and not very full. Then comes the crowning lory. The third ruffle is appliqued with ck lace In the most delicate intricate pattern possible. Here one finds a rose and there a leaf, while between the two may be a tiny bud that has strayed away from home. The strain of black is in evidence about the edge again, but It looks a fit topping for the lace design. Next to the face Is a perfect mass of the plain cLiffon, and its soft daintiness helps Dame Nature along in her good work not a little. The ends are of the plaited material and two shirrings take away that fragile look that always ac- companies mousseline. Over the jlast pleating a plain band of material, hcavily appliqued, is laid on to further carry out the lage effect. Sometimes in the more expensive ones —though heaven knows that none of them are what one could call cheap—a flower fashion Is to be found, and right swagger it is,’ too. Instead of colored frills the material is ehirred time and time again for the lower and upper row. The center pleces must necessarily be ruffles, and just in the center of the back is a single flower, such as a rose, in black lace. By the way, the great majority of ruffs POSES BY. AGNES RANKIY | fuczEs Frorr PHOTOS BY CENTRAL THEATRE. ary oF PARLS are m for this and the e in white, with a dash of black, is essentially a white summer = will be carried out more fully next winter. However, there are people who tkink a little about dura- bility, and whatever else white chiffon is, it is not serviceable. Once in a while one sees them in a pale pink or a delicate blue, but as they open the purse strings generously, one hesitates beforo getting a furbelow that cannot be worn with everything. That is the beauty of black and white—no matter what color the frock is, it never looks amiss. these ruffs theré are other same s quite as fit, and, more to the point, do not as much, The lace collar is an- other petted child of Dame Fashion just at present. And they are such handy things, too. Take, for instance, a plain tallor suit and dress it up with an ecru Battenberg and note what a difference it makes. An ordinary silk waist will spruce up and consider itself fit to shine at the theater if that all-concealing and convenient piece of neckwear s forthcoming. Look at the black silk cloak. For morning wear—and some people will in- sist on wearing them—they should look plain, even severe, but after the clock strikes 12 it is time for the butterfly to safl forth and then the somber appear- ance is not demanded nor desired. A collar made of half gilk and half linen tucked solidly and edged with a fine piece of ecru lace makes all the dif- ference in the world. They are large enough to fall over the shoulder and are plenty long enough in front to serve as LATTICE . THE - SUNDAY CALL. a chest protector. Sometimes they come in a V shape, often square, but more frequently circu- lar. A V-shaped plece of lace is dressed up ever so much by a pleating of chiffon, which, though peri ble, is not expens- ive and is always dainty. Mulls, linen and lawn have been pressed into service, and their chief attraction is their wash- ability, They are pretty as well. With plenty of tucks, yards of insertion and miles of Valenciennes lace they make as smart a collar as ever the most fastidious could wish for. Let me tell you a little secret right here. No matter how care- ful one may be, the collar is bound to be more or less crushed and rumpled. A hot iron, a few deft strokes amd two sec~ onds’ time and there you are all fresh, sweet and dainty agaln. It makes no difference where you are or where you intend to be. A collar or a ruff is almost indispensable for your welfare @nd happiness. It softehs the face, brings out the fresh, rosy color, fills in the throat, gives one a feeling of satis- faction, besides being mighty swagger and smart. But for the woman with a fad for lace and the money, or the luck to possess it, there are marvelous possiblities in ths way of dress transformations this year. Tiny choux of white ribbon are used for fastening a flounce to a skirt and the woeman with fifteen minittes to spare can change her plain white taffeta into a lace trimmed gown, or can give her rose chif- fon the one touch needed to make it quite a dream. The dinner gowns of the summer aré not so very low in the neck. The tenden- cy is more toward the higher neck and the trimmed neck. The bertha of lace and flowers, the flounce of embroidered silk and the rose garland are used for bordering the neck. Chiffon ruffles are spangled with glass dewdrops and caught around the rounded neck and one sees the cross over fichu in gauze folded over the breast and fastened at the belt line under the arms. Immensely stylish dinner bodices - are made of lace, very heavy and stiffened underneath. They remind one of those coats of mail which were so fashionable at one time. All of jets or of silver spangles or- glittering with steel, these pieces of armor formed waists and whole gowns. Indeed, one sees them yet. The heavy lace bodice is decollete and sleeveless except for straps upon the shoulder. The lace besides being very beavy is embroidered and worked In metals and in silks so that the front is really a weighty fabric. Upon one shoul- der the plainness is relleved by an orna- ment of some sort, usually a great silken roge. Dinner slesves are most Interesting. They vary from the sleeve which is no sleeve at all, but only a strapping, to the sleeve which 'is long and shirred from top to bottom, with a chiffon outside and a taffeta lining. But such sleeves are waning a little in their popularity and the sleeve that is liked is the elbow sleeve. It is strange how the elbow sleeve is catching on. Women looked at it at first askance, then grew to admire it and to try it. At first one feels awkward In an elbow sleeve. It is neither one thing nor the other. Then one becomes accus- tomed to it and one’s elbows no longer bother one. . There are sleeves that are deep band of insertion with a little rib- bon run in the lower edge and these are merely a pretty and comfortable. The band is sometimes six inches deep and is finished with ‘a little jabot of lace at the back. There are so many ways of using the lace flounce, which s so often seen around the neck of a low or semi-low bodice that, with each gown, the effect is different. One way, quite new, shows & lace flounce a finger and a half deep, set over a little silk ruffle, which is a little deeper than the lace. This is used to border the entire neck of a gown, which is cut low enough to show the shoulders of the wearer. The most becoming of all fancies now bholds sway, which for the insetting of lace In a gown. The lace diamond set into the yoke, and repeated at frequent intervals, is as fine and tasteful a thing as could be devised. The lace yoke, the sleeves with lace points set In at the shoulder, the deep lace cuffs that come to the elbow and the lacy panels let inta the skirt, all thess give but & suggestion of the numerous ways in which the lace inset can be employed. The question of pin tucking comes up again, both In the consideration of dinner gowns and In the making of dresses for street and calling. That the trimming ia a favorite one there is no doubt, but that it is a great deal of work is also well es- tablished. By pin tucking Is meant the smallest tuck that can be made and the only safe way to construct-a pin tuck is by hand. The putting in of the tiny tucks, one af- ter another, until the whole waist or the whole shirt is so treated is one of the tediums ~f modern dressmaking.