The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 13, 1902, Page 15

showers are here and the into the world upon summer shopping That she must soon be a summer girl, she knows. The most apparent fact in her spring catalogue is the one which tells her that it is to be a white summer. The showers the flowers are the signal of Mother Nature her gay hues, the woman goes out Perhaps not all white, but so nearly so that you might as well say white. Who cares if a gown be in moon-colored vellow off the cream and only a lit- tle deeper? As far 1s concerned white. Her gown soils j is just as fragile in othe trying to the complexion, ju: as though it were of she stuff. Fortunately for her who is to be in the white swim this coior comes this year in becoming tones. Instead of the blue white which is becomiing omy to the fairest blondes, the clear type, it comes in a deep tone, almost cream, and in oyster gray, which is quite white, and in the grayish blues that are smoKy in their depths. Many Shades of White. You will be surprised to find how many shades of white there are, and if you are contemplating the matching of a white cloth dress you had better take along a bit of the goods, for no matter how fine an eye you lave for color, you will surely make a mistake and come home with scniething tuat does not match at alk The cclor of old lace is a popular one for the very light cloth gown. It is a yel- lowish white, very soft and immensely be- ccming. There are very few who cannot wear it. You will find that it makes up delightfully with ecru and tan laces and with Irish crocheted point in the un- bleached thread. Such lovely softness as there is in this tone, carried through a whole gown. To dress it up a little, to brighten it and bring out the color of your cheeks, you will want a chou of panne pink velvet, just upen the bust, with two hanging ends finished with velvet knots. Your belt and stock may be the same, or you can de- part from this custom and wear a pink rose in your hair, one at your neck and one at your belt. » It must not be supposed that this cloth which is the color of old lace is designed specially and only for the house. Far frcm it. The soft shade is made into street gowns and is worn with pink deco- rations, or with bows of brown velvet, which are really better for the street. Take such a gown and tuck the blouse waist. Tuck the sleeves, and let cuffs of old lace finish the wrists with puffs of lace above them. Let the yoke be a lace one; and let the collar be of the cloth with lace over it. Then let the belt and bust have a very little coffee brown velvet, in the shape of immer woman > in as delicate immaculate SwWE "~ Crinese. VEWNG—— a twist and some tiny brown velvet roses, made up from velvet by the yard, not artificial roses, but “made” roses. An aroma of refinement will hang around this gown. Chocolate au Lait. One of the most charming creations of the early summer is a gown of chocolate colored veiling, rather pale, more like a chocolate-au-lait The skirt is of sweep length, tucks irom the belt down nearly to the hem and the waist is made in the same 1 tucks from throat to belt with tle pouchy effect over the front of the belt. laid in There is lace upon this gown, as upon all the dresses of spring, whether they be for the street or the house, and the lace in this case is used.as a hip yoke with a point in the middle of the front and with tapering sides. There is a walst voke, but it comes upward from the belt and looks scmething like 'a continuation of the hip yoke. The cuffs are baggy af- fairs of the chocolate cloth with neat little wrist bands of lace finishing them. There are some very smart dressers in this ccuntry, smarter far than those in London, and there' are American women who make their money and their clothes 8o farther than English women know how to do. They are not always the women of wealth, but often they are leaders in dress, because they know so well how to dress and to make their clothes seem “fit” al- ways and very trim. One of the most economical of fine dressers is Mrs. John Jacob Astor. She is not obliged to “‘scrimp” as other women understand scrimping, yet she does not spend a fortune on her gowns. é}le chooses suits that are in harmony. This spring she has two walking suits, one in gray and one in blue. Both are sweep length, much longer than the pedestrian, and both require holding up on the street. The blue is in the old-fashioned shade of navy blue and is trimmed with wide bands of braid stitched on both edges, Mrs. Astor’s Gown. The waist is a Russian blouse, open in front, over a French red shirtwaist, which is substituted for one of white on some occasions. Trimming the skirt there are long Lands of the braid that come down each side of the front and curve around the skirt at the head of an undulating flounce which grows wider in the back. ‘With this suit a very large black hat is worn. It turns up in the back with a big bow and there 18 a sweeping plume around the brim. Black suede gloves complete this very elegant street gown. The idea that the boots, the gloves and the hat make the costume is one that grows upon you this season. The extreme neatness of the new shoes, with their pol- ished leather sides, their brilllant tips and thelr soft tops, excites admiration and re- spect. They are heavy, these new spring #hoes, and very sensible, though they do BLACK oot go about branded with that accusa- tion. It is really time to plt on low shoes in nearly every part of the country. As scon as snow Is past the low shoes are brought out and women who like to look neat around the feet welcome this eco- nomical escape from the easily roughened high boot top. Many New York women wear low shoes all winter and so prevalent was this cus- tom during the past season that clergy- men preached against it and doctors were interviewed upon its ill effects. Even with the open worked stockings were the low shoes worn and New York women actual- ly trod the snow and tramped the ice with these Priscilla shoes buttoned by only a single button at the ankle. The Priscilla, or the Colonial, spring. has made its appearance. low and rather wide in the toe. It is high in the heel, but after the Cuban pattern, not the French heel style, nor the Louis Quinze. The Spring Shoe. The heel, while high, is square and sup- ports the ankle. There is a big gun metal buckle upon the instep and the shoe has a tongue. Behind the tongue there is a little strap and a button. The sole is heavy and it 1s to be doubted if fair woman, with her protective petticoats, will suffer in health from this style of low shoe. A woman who dresses remarkably well —and who should& do so—is Mrs. Charles Dana Gibson. A habitual attendant at the rose show, a woman of magnificent physique, a fashionable woman in one sense of tHe word, she is beautifully gowned at all times. She wears the tailor- ;_nude types, softened by laces and chif- ons. On_board Sir Thomas Lipton’s yacht last fall she wore dark gray, deep enough to bring out her ' brilliant tones. She dresses always in dark colors and wears a very snug waist, not on the blouse order. Just now she wears a basque, with little ripples below the waist, a most trying garment for any but a' perfect figure. Mrs. O. H. P. Belmont makes you for- get she is a grandmother when you see her bronze gold hair brushed away from her temples in great curves, while the frnéxt is brought down in the eyebrow puft. Mrs, Belmont's fayorite color is green and this spring she is wearing a marvel- ous leaf-green cloth, trimmed with gold and black braid. There is a long cloak of black, trimmed with braid, down each sidé ‘of the front, and there are bell sleeves, bordered with the brilliant braid. Her daughter, the Duchess of Marlbor- ough, Wears the most magnificent gowns ever designed for a woman. This spring, while she is'at the fashionable French watering place with her father, she is wearing a gown of light gray panne cloth, 8o treated that it looks like velvet. For the Duchess of Marlborough. It is one of the gowns she had made in Paris to take with her to Russia and is the gown in which she made a visit to the Winter Palace and spent three hours talking, in the most genial social converse, to the Czarina, who forgot that she was the wife of the Czar and was, for one afternoon, Alice of England, Alice of the Highlands, her mother’s daughter. is gown is trimmed with panne silk in the same color and with chiffon in light gray, a gown all of lignt gray. Only a very young beauty should try to wear this pale tone, for it is trying to age and brings out the ashiness of the complexion. And, by the way, have you heard that Lady Randolph Churchill, or, as she now is, Mrs. Cornwallis West, made the first diplomatic mistake of her soclal career. It was in dress, the very thing in which Mrs.' West is. most proficient. By some bad luck she chose a spring gown of that new cloth which looks exactly like vel- vet, but is as thin as veiling, and by worse luck she selected a shade of rose. tie' of It is = AUTOMOBILE COMR POR SUMMER WEAR » It is very tashionable this color, a littie off the pink, and looking more like a faded rose leaf. They call it French pink, but it_has a sad, faded tone. In this unhappy gown, which was made entirely of the faded rose color, Mrs. West attended a reception given by the Mrs. Arthur Paget set, and those who saw her fell back and marveled. Instead of the fragile brunette loveli- ness which has always been her charac- te c, t beheld an old woman, with the pathetic hue of the faded rose in her » cheeks and the wilted look of the very old rose in her lips. The tints of the rose gown brought all the pathos of past years into the comvlevion. Buying for Summer. It is time to be out and buying for the summer gown. little. You can do so for a very The lovely printed muslins are cheap, and there are figured chif- onettes they are called, that lovely trimmings. The French re excellent and the Art Nouveau quite throw into the shade the ed goods which held the center of as an attraction last year and t get a simple little printed mus- lin_and make it up in the way it should g0? You will want a sheath skirt, as close as possible areund the hips, and as full as an orchid around the foot. Tne orchid skirt is one of the new skirts. So is the morning glory skirt, which is ex- tremely full. The flounee can he -one that is pointed at the top. It can be cut in great points so that only ten ‘of -them are.needed to en- compass -the skirt. The bottom hangs }sln‘alghl and even and is finished by a em. Around the top of the flounce there are narrow black velvet ribbons run and these are threaded in and out of a band of in- sertion which finishes the top of the flounce. At the top of each point there comes a little black velvet bow. The belt need be only a band of inser- don with narrow black velvet rup through it. Two-inch wide Insertion makes a good beit. This seeson so many pretty belts are made of insertion. The kind that will ac- commodate a ribbon is used and the vel- vet ribbon is run at top and bottom. Any color m: be chosen and the belt is so in- expensive that one can have half a dozen, one for each suit—run with ribbon to match. A charming way to finish the wrists of your summer dress is with a ruffle of the printed muslin. Between rurfle and sleeve use a strip of insertion for a cuff and run two narrow ribbons through it. A great many summer walsts are cut very low in the neck to set over a yoke of white lace. This pretty fashion permits the leaving off the yoke for evening and dinner occasions. The only neck finish re- quired for the waist is the little black velvet ribbon run through insertion. Phe stock is a simple matter of needle- work with velvet run through. At ons side of the bust there may be a big chou of black velvet ribbon. And for the hair you will need another chou of black vel~ vet to match the one at the bust. Crisp White Gowns. Soclety girls'who dress a great deal and have a great many gowns are selecting the crisp materials which are fashionable this year. These materials give an ap- pearance of youth that gannot be ob- tained from any other kind of stuff. They are crisp and fresh,.young and natural looking, quite different from the clinging, esthetic type, so called, and for a change very refreshing. Just how they will stand the wind and weather, the sea breezes, and the mountain fastnesses, it will be for summer to disclose. When first made they are charming. Flounces are varied by trimmings of white satin ribbon. To make a flounce trimming get a whole piece of white satin ribbon, baby width. Take it and tic it into a’rosette, or sew it into ome if you be not expert enough to tie it. Let there be several long loops and no ends. Take this rosette, which must be as big and as firm as a white love apple, and fasten it at the upper edge of the flounce. If de- gired you can place such a rosette at in- tervals all the way around the skirt, or you can use three rosettes to trim 'the front of the skirt, one above the other, with-six inches between. The short sleeved girl of summer is cer- tainly here and she will remain and mul- {iply. The sleeve that is chopped off at the elbow is the sleeve that will be’ worn in August. There Is nothing difficult about its making. It is eut off and fin- jshed with a ruffle of the dress material, that is all—and very simple it is. There are fancy ways of making these short sleeves. They can be cut off above the elbow and completed with a wide sharp cuff which turns back and stands out a Louis Quinze cuff. Or the sleeve can be cut off below the elbow and fin- ished in the same way. The Summer Sleeve. A lovely cuff places the elbow in a bag with a cuff below the elbow and the cuff is finished with hanging lace. There is one sleeve that is most beauti- ful of all. It is the great kimona sleeve and it is made out of muslin, lawn, cloth or velyvet. It is large and constantly grows larger. From being tight at the shoulder, it gradually widens untfl it is perfectly - immense around the hand, ‘while it shows a beautifully gorgeous lin- ing. %he outside of the sleeve is trimmed, not always with a band of velvet, but sometimes with straps of insertion, if it be a light weight slegve, the straps ex- tending up the arm. A sleeve Is worn heneath this and the more delicate the under sleeve is the pret- tler. It should be of a soft Louisine silk, of beautiful hue, and so fine in its tex- ture that it will crumple like a web, yet shake out again without a wrinkle. They are selling %hese silks this year —_— IN SHORT SLEEVES AND DANCING FLOUNCES | SEE WILL PRESENT A FRESHLY YOUTHFUL | LOOR—IDEAL SPRING AND | SUMMER COSTUMES OF | | MRS. CHARLES DANA | GIBSON, MRS. JOHN JACOB ASTOR AND MRES. 0. H. P. BELMONT—LOVELY COS- TUME IN GRAY, IN WHICH OUR OWN CONSUELO | OF MARLBOROUGH CHAT- | TED WITH THE CZARINA— | IDEAS FOR THE WOMAN OF TASTE AND AMBITIONS —THE NEW FADS OF THE | SUMMER—MRS. CORNWAL- | LIS WEST'S DRESS MIS- | TAKE. ! I —_— & that look like brocaded velvet, but on be- ing squeezed in the hand show the soft- s of a rose leaf and the toughness of wood fiber. Ruffles are so very much worn! You can ruffle and tuck everything and be sure of being in style. Wide ruffles, or perhaps it would be better to call them accordion plaitings, are set around the foot of the summer gowns, but after one washing the plaiting is gone and the trimming be- comes an ironed-out ruffle, not the less becoming and pretty, but less deilcate and dressy. And it is an age of delicacy and dressi- ness. The two go so wonderfully hand in hand. Perhaps there is less of applique this year than lace, and less of patchy trimmings, but_thers pin tucking, and as for plaitings and box plaitings, ruchings, rufflings and pointed and graduated flounces, these quite make up for the little labor saved in the dolng away of applique. Novel Trimmings. And lpf"flue is not all done a with, If you think so, just take a walk mxz the principal stores and notice the ly- made gowns upon which lace flowers are freely appliqued. Note the passementeries, partly chenille, g}mly pearl and partly silk, all blended one soft trimming for dinner gowns. Notice the squares of wash silk, out- lined by lace, that trim the shirt walsts. Notice the marvelous diamond-iike appii- cations that seem to trim everything. Yet the appliqued bit of silk is not so much in_evidence and lace is taking its place. Waists are immense. omen who boasted a 2l-inch waist are wearing a 23, and the few who proudly mentioned 19 as a waist measure now add two to it. The impossibility of a small waist brought about by the straight-fronted cor- set and also by the style of dress. It is not necessary to compress the walist, and no woman is doing so. Once released, the waist swells and the old-fashioned idea of trimness is lost. The very light shades are the omes sought in the summer gowns. The pastel pinks are here and the faint blues. The deep blues and pinks and greens and yellows known as old blue, old pink. ap- ple green and lemon yeliow have been succeeded by pastel blue, shell pink, aca~- cia green and moonstone yellow—which is the palest of all blues. There 1s champagne yellow, too, and garden pink, which is a very faint tone. Get your goods as light as you can, just so they do not look faded, and you will come very near to being fashionable, The New Laces. ‘The prettiest trimming for all light-hued goods Is lace, and lace this year is sp beautifully wrought out. It comes so cheap and so delicate In imitation Valen- ciennes, imitation Brussels, fmitation point and in the Arabian, Irish and Rus- sian imitations, all so different and all so cheap and good, that you can susely be_suited. The very new gowns show a tendemcy for the yoke of heavy lace, looking as though it were crocheted. Renaissance lace of the better imitation sort is used for little bolero jackets and for yoke, stock and cuffs. And it is also used for One can scarcely get too much ce lace to look well. A new fancy has come into play for braiding the chiffons and thin stuffs, Take a strip of chiffon and cut it in three lengths. Braid as in a three strand braid. When dene it should maks a rope a iit- tle larger than your thumb. . This is used for the border of a yoke and for the edge of the neck of a decollete gown. Lace falls over it for evening and is caught here and there in the three strand braid. If preferred, you can border the yoke of your street dress with it and use it again upon your cuffs and at the lower is certainly more edge of your stock. It is an expensive trimming, but very effective. A little crinoline can be roiled inside the chiffon betore it is braided to e a border for the hat brim. This entire motif can be carried out in shrimp pink for hat, yoke, belt, cufls and stoek, a very refined finish to_all If you are going to look well this year you must study your dress, for only in this way will you succeed. Eternal vigilance in taste and money spending is the price of good dressing and you must be up and must shop late or the early worm of opportunity in the shape of pretty bargains will be gone be- fore you have caught it.