The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 23, 1902, Page 15

THE SUNDAY CALIx 15 How to buy :t, how to cut it out, how it, what to dssigns for the ho likes to rejoice at | 1 how to wear ’ | in | 2 gown as new iding leaves upon the Quecen Asexendra’s best and the frocks in which American women are doing their coronation shop- ping—Eastersleeves and East- er skirts. " OW Christianlike in when we are well dre Miss Frances Willard once marked to her rit we feel a moral tone renewal of g rit and dear Miss Willard felt the fects of good cl who can withstand their pious infuences? A certain woman reformer who has yet passed into history declares that feels more courage to face an ience when she wears a gown that is that it should be—more confident of succes: To wear a gown that is that it should be is the right of every woman at that religion. If beneficent ef- afford to hes, not she Eastertide. It is the custom of her lani to blossom out In a new gewn during the Eastern moon and both persistently and gladly should she claim it The Easter church gown is a distinct factor in the worship of the American woman, and, while she js giving thanks for good things, an added note will sure ly be give: her ra: to b mur- mured words of gratitude, she can offer one for the material benefits of good clothi E. Variety of Goods. And from w she car bewilder e this vear! sly she and of be How thought- an walk the and with ch look, wh da e make her selec- On each side of her she will see brocad- ed stuffs, figured silks, flowered satins, s roses in them, cottons with sprigs ttered over their surfaces, mer- rized materials of all sorts with 1 face, and, more than sortment of Louisine d as she is to the plain silks s cloths and and brocaded But if she will them she will see how they can ed to her benefit rather than to & 2 goods will st also tempt gh priced care to buy. a pattern dre: it needs no other trim- for it in its b in the restige with i s an elegant lo something that is we And the pattern goods of this eres, clot} offer such a variety of almost any occasion can be high ve The Silk Gown. ch gown may with all r be a silk dress. There the only approved was a silk, black, brown, or olive, and to have a silk s for church was a necessity with the ng woman. Then for a time except for dress occasions, reigned. It came back again, at first, but now it enjoys full whe: well-r silk went and cloth gradu favor. The mercerized materials paved the way for silk. For the past two seasons you ) scarcely been to distinguish on from the ual product of able k worm, and the imitation silk gown and the mercerized separate waist were seen everywhere. at now it is all silk, the moire, the taffeta, the gros grain, the corded and the ottoman, nearly all revivais; and a the movelty th miroir, the changeables called and the lovely lib- have durability to 1d the matter of wear also of price. By pay- vou get a silk that will nger. The flowere the empires and the Louisines well de- serve th e head of the list But, ru a close rivalr and sa rere come the a are not kno they are the that are as heer as lawn, 2 ieep and rich in color, and the canvas cloths and the open mesh madr a the thin cloths which panne cloths, and there is a with a velvet finish that like velvet, yet is as thin s self. Cashmere comes this ea inatr rent quality, or, if t tr t 50 thin that you can sece the outline of your hand througt The Lining Question. All of these thin goods require fine linings, but it has come to such a state of perfection in dress that all linings are fine and it costs no-rhore, or veny little more, 10 get a pre lining with a silk or a satin ish than a coarse one in gray or brown. All dzintily constructed women love nice the spring lining fabrics cater thoroughly. There are ilks, only partly silk, that and strong. church dress has res. 1L has come to a one not make up one’s materia! and rest content. There is no such thing as a restful certainty in styles and you st be always on the lookout, or you wiil get left in the matters that mark you as 4 woman of taste. The self-stock, or a stock of the same goods, is one of the moticeable things. The very newest note, one just sounded from the very fashionable dressmaking when to the effect that elbow per thing. Go. h gown and ablishm ts be the pr if you are cut it off Save a little of e material, i nother pair eeves, lest the inge before the gown is worn around thé hem, but just-now you must be in the mode. Cut off your ves at the elbow and finish the 1 of velvet of the Do not match have it suffi- rd a contrast. This applied this wide band frill of lace vut ce frill siould be one but an ertive lace with decided pat- S hat seems more like a fab- ric than a The Made-Over Gown It you are m an old gown, sew it up in the fi open it down the back. It may not be a popul vle with you or . for the difficulties at- tending kind of dress are obvious to every woman who does not a maid. But it will give you a youthful air and hat is what you must have. It will also give you a fashionable this-season look. Over the front, which has been stiiched up, set a few tucks, or the seam very flat so that it does not look like a seam. The object is to avoid the straight your fa thi press line of trimming from the chin to the belt —the line th ves the waist a mature look. A lace panel could be used down the front Rip open the waist down the back and supply invisible hooks and eyes. Or put om 2 band of tucking boldly supplied with tutions and buttou-holes. Having made over your walst this far, take it and cut it off above the waist, halfway between the belt and the arm- holes, to make of it a little modernized Eton, buttoned in the back, the very newest thing in dressmaking With this you will want to wear a very handsome little needlework shirtw a silk waist, or a chiffon affair. Let th hirt waist be ned by your taste the general style of the gown. Miss Daisy Leiter wore a chiffon one dotted with black velvet dots, like veiling, nd cver a tan-colored silk foundation, the whole pulled down baggily around the waist, under a very trim tan, cloth Eton buttoned in the back. The sleeves of the shirt waist, being long and pretty, afford undersieeves for the Eton and supply the length desired. Regarding the short sleeve of summer, about which so many correspondents have asked, it is perfectly safe to predict that the short sleeve will be seen later, but not for many months to come. The Short Sleeve. The elbow sleeve, though it is pretty for dinner and eveuing, is a matter of dis pute for street wear. For this time of year there is no argument, but even in August there are those who do not fancy it. At the same time it must be men- tioned that there are many who do admire it and who like to wear it. N ) _ Last summer on Fifth avenue and on Broadway, in New York, in Bond street, London, and on the Rue de la Paix, Paris, one saw in the middle of the day, walk- ing and shopping, hundreds of elegantly gowned women wearing sleeves that did not come below the elbow, without gloves = DRESSED Foix THE EASTER Parean and carrying parasols. They sauntered through the crowded thoroughfares as unconcernedly as though they were not doing that which would, a few years ago, have been thought decidedly immodest. For Easter the elbow sleeve will not be worn for the street without the under- sleeve. Even the long giove will not sup- ply the place of the sleeve and “to the wrist” will be the cry for several months to come. . But a word must be said in passing for the pretty shirt waists that are sold with sleeves at elbow length. They are exquis- itely finished and supplied with frills and laces that fall nearly to the wrist. They are for the most part cut in pagoda and bell shapes, so that the arm is dispiayed from the elbow down. The trimming for the Easter gown “‘opens up a field for perplexing thought. A great variety offers itself, all in pretty styles, though not all novel by any means. The appliqued flowers of lace suggest themselves first because they are dressy and not difficult to obtain or to put on. Then comes the option of embroidery, but this is not within reach of all. There are handsome trimmings, in the shape of laces, run with velvet ribbons no wider than a cord, the lace wide and heavy. These are beautiful, but they are somewhat .expensive and the Easter church gown may be now under w. nd built upon linds that will not permit the adding of a trimming whose price is dol- lars a yard, instead of half dollars. As a compromi; between the very cheap trimmings and the very expensive omes, there is the French velvet-decora- tion, than which nothing prettier has been found. It consists of bands of black vel- vet ribbon fastened together with an open stitch. The bands may be any width; an effective trimming is two inches wide. Three bands joined with an open stitch and twisted to form a design make as showy a trimming as can be applied to a waist. Upon any skirt it is decidediy dis- tinguished. A spring trimming that is even cheaper is the band of panne silk or velvet and it is really difficult to distingulsh between these two materials at a short distance. Bands are applied to lace in such a way that the lace projects at each side to form an edge. This very handsome trimming can head the graduated flounce upon the skirt, or it can be used to form a yoke upon the hips, or it can make a waist yuke or it can be crossed upon the bust with the ends pointing toward the shoul- der seams. Stitched bands are just as fashionable as they were, but at this season, when new styles #%re blossoming forth, the stitched band is overshadowed by the ele- gunce and popularity of the lace and vel- vet trimmings. A High-Toned Waist. If you would dress exactly like the 400 here is a shirt waist that was completed no longer ago than yesterday and sent Tome for a very quiet Sunday afternoon Lenten recital. The modiste who plade it, and who harged well for her work, began with a heavy. handseme shirt waist of heliotrope mo It was made with: tucks turning toward the shoulder, at each side of the front, a from the buttons and out in a manner to - broaden the shoulders. Though a_high-priced waist, from one of the most expenisive shops, it was untrim- med except with the tucks, which were released at the bust line, leaving the lower part plain. The evolution of this shirt waist she shall tell in her own words: “Taking the waist,” said “T ap~ plied bands of filet lace to it from the point where the fucks terminated to the belt. It took lace three inches wide and I left a three-inch space between the bands of lace. The application of lace was put on with a button-hole stitch around the border of the lace to make it perfectly firmp. “My second Step wa. small purple velvet pansies the lace, one pansy set below the other, three Inches apart. All the str »t lace wera appliqued with these little pansy flowers. Story of a Waist. she s the sewing on of “The third step in the treatment was the cutting away of the silk underneath the lace strips ““The waist now presented the appear- ance of being a heliotrope moire tucked across ‘the yoke. Below the yoke it was very French in des consisting of al- ternate bands of silk and lace; three inches wide. “As a 1 touch I embroidered stems upon the flowers.in green and sprinkled black French knots in black silk through ips. great deal of work? No, to the contrary, it was v quickly and y domne, for the onl workmanship required was in the application of the lace strips, a thing any half-skilled ap- prentice could do, and the careful selec- tion of the flowers and the making of the little French knots. he result was remarkably good and a waist was produced that was every whit as elegant as m: an imported creation “hat is sold for $75. whereas the cost was a very nall fraction of that sum. But remember that the first step was the buy- of a handsome shirt waist.” Shirts show the same pe; ng uncer- tainty that cha waists and par- ticularly the therec Fortu- y for the woman who is making up & skirt which is to wear her all the spring —and do duty again next fall as a sec- ond best—all the variety seems to be found around the foot of the skirt and an pin her f top with plait at the back. The Skirt Question. th to the plain tight- e same inverted box If she prefers sk can have the box plait in evidence and wear it boldly at Jier back to give her a little more grace and not to define her figure so sharply. It is all a matter of taste with her, for both styles are rrect. The plait is y stitched flat nearly a foot down in working on the gown around ot of the skirt there comes an op- portunity for study. aster church suit shows a skirt actually of reception length. It pon the floor in front to a length nly three inches: The back sweep that, while It give ght, also gives the wearer no end of trouble. It is so long that not for an instant can it be allowed to sweep a public place of meeting, such as church or theater, much less the street. round the foot of this handsome street suit, for a street suit it i there is a deep flounce that is of graduated width. nches deep; its back full tucked in little clusters of three at head, bu* the tucks e cape to help make the foot flare, which must be as pronounced as possible. Under this flounce there is a plaiting of taffeta the length of the out- side skirt this there is a drop skirt the belt. this flounce is confined nch heading of sray velvet, irt is gray, put on in broken with the velvet crossed at each Above this there are Abc t as big around as sil- lozenges of vel ver aollars. Bands and Dots. The velvet is bordered with a very deép button hole stitching In gray silk. Over the gray silk there is a button hole stitching in white silk, the two stitchings making a trimming of their own. Velvet and button hole ; and velvet and cat stitching le companions. The black-dot i ag its part, and an importan mming for the the black dotted not the polka dot, gown i but the dot of commerce, the black vel- vet dot, the brown velvet dot and the one of e and tan. Edged with lace is this dot. or applied with but itching Or it is bor- dered le of velvet of a different color, the circie being made by applying one dot ov the other, a black velvet one upon a lar one of tan; or a white vel- vet dot ur larger one of black, and the whole s pon a little circular pat- tern of lace. AlL these dots grew from the French knot, ch a black silk dot, m ¢ by cunning workmanshi until now the dot.in its full grown size is as big as a Iver dollk Dot flounce the size of quarters are set above and dots as big as dimes are €d in pyramid form around the , the point of the pyramid extending well toward the belt. Yokes are out- lined with dots, while the same decora- in a smaller size make the yoke it- , and dot trimmings are used upen the baggy lower parts of the sleeves. The Queen’s Trimmings. Queen Alexandra has a new gown made of gray broadcloth. The graduated 'flounce is trimmed around the bottom with dots the size of dellars, and dots just as large outline the yoke, which Is lace covered. The lace looks something like the Irish crochet lace, but it has applications of small black dots upon it. The under sleeves are treated in the same dotted way and the dot craze has penetrated the smart little cutaway coat which is part of the suit, whose lapels and dee; ilor collars are well speckled with medium sized black velvet dots. In the figured goods one sees beautiful black velvet dots on a taffeta ground. As to the dotted vell it is now raised to a pinnacle of perfection which might be called an art. Its dots are numerous and large, but they are located upen a very thin mesh, and they are placed at inter- vals, which render it possible to avoid the placing of a spot upon the tip of the nose, or on the pupil of either eye. Crescents in white velvet are very fash- icnable upon the *very thin mesh veils, and so are hollow circles in black velvet and in tan velvet d in royal blue. It is the most up-to-date thing in the world to match the spots on tha veil to the gown, but few there be with the in- dustry to do so, for orie must apply these dots by hand. Crepe de sole, crepe de chine and crepe de Paris are three of the materials that lend themselves nicely to the dotting pre= cess and that make up effectivély inte soft shirt fronts or into whole s aists to be worn under the cloth jacket, so as to peep out in the fromt, or around the bottom of the jacket. This much certain, £ it Is gown time. Whatever you buy, buy something, for the Eastertide I8 the tide of new clothes; and, unhappily, unwise the one who does net blossom out just a little with the trees.