The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 16, 1902, Page 15

Al THE SUNDAY CALL. 13 oo # [y ~~‘Q: e P i s, T Gzl WIRIST AND NECHK MBANDS o~ FASHIONABLE TIDINGS FOR THE WOMAN WHO WILL SPEND THE SEASON IN A SHIRT WAIST AND FOR THE ONE WHO IS NOT PREPARED TO LAY OUT A MILLION UPON THIS NOW FAMOUS LITTLE ARTICLE OF SUMMER DRESS— THE WAIST AS IT IS MAKING ITS APPEARANCE IN LON- COUNTRY. DON, IN PARIS AND IN THE TASHION CENTERS OF THIS BY AUGUSTA PRESCOTT. summer comes tripp us and it is pleasant to go to meet her upon the way. wears a sunny smile, as befits jon, and an artle: man- ner so wears a shirt waist. Wt woman ever be divorced from this waist of hers? It is as though she had ked long for that which she nd having once found it had de- termined to cling to it forevermore. In selecting the shirt waist as her con- stant friend the woman of to-day has good taste; she has forever f from the charge of not ood thing when she saw it. inexpensive, becoming, sy to obtain; all these many more can be attrib- ummer shirt waist. It wou well if, with its other un- fading virtues, the shirt walst could be maintained at its original cost, which was of a dollar or less. But it bas recelved important additions that bave made it costly end it is to-day not so cheap a walst as it was. You can get a very simple thing In thin shown he i & pretty, ES white goods, sheer enough to show the ur finger tips, with some pin ning from the heck band down yust, and with a band of open needlework extending around the blouse Just above the belt line. The needlework looks very nice and there is an air of re- finem o the walst. You ask the price, expecting it to be some moderat u and are amazed to find it jmmoderately large. The waist happens to be an India lawn and the needlework a hand embroidery, teiling of hours of time and eyesight, so the sales- woman Intimates. 2 Very justly have such waists taken their places along with the very fine things of dress. They are to be worn with white satin skirts this summer, for plazza and lawn occasions, and will oc- cupy places of honor at high teas. They rank with the silk musiins, with tne crepe de chines and with the taffetas and with satin itself. The shirt waist of very fine goods, whether it be an India lawn or a sheer muslin, or a fine linen, or one of the new and deliciously soft grass linens, is placea in the social scale of fabrics along with silk and satin. The full blouss or the blouse that bags all the way over the belt is seen n. It calls for a great deal of beautifully trimmed material and it also calls for ex- tremely goqd fitting, for of all walstsithe full blouse is the hardest to make set well. A New Sleeve. The blouse sleeve that goes with this waist is interesting. If it is not a leg-o0'- mutton it is suspiciously like one. Its top is tucked and the tucks come down to the elbow, while below there is a great baggy effect that makes the blouse-like sleeve. The whole comes into a tight cuf at the wrist, which is of needlework. The cuff can be elabarated by a puff and then by more neediework, This is not a bad walst for the amate to experi- ment upon, for in certain ways it i to make. A series of the éxtremely pov- ular pin tucks an 2 r2ultftude of dre: The plainest of the full blouse t i stif- it fened band of muslin with nser- tion at the top and a needlework border at the head of the -insertion. It is a crushable little thing, meant for a day. ana only a day will it last, From the standpoint of ec: these waists, the white In the full blouse, nor the pi can be advised. All the: fabrics soil very easily of them comes high. Nor will the: the necessary {ll treatment af the wash- ing tub very long. Often a single laun- dering_even at careful hands, will bring forth the waist slit along the lines that scparate needléwork from the goods, is The squeezing Tended. By th éfivw £ boiled and pres: 0 er/in the hands, as though it were all lace. But not.a d particle of treatmen! it recelve upon the.washboard. 'This destructive imple- ment is reserved for waists that will bear its harshness with impunity, but it is not given to the waist of lace. The Laundry Question. Women of extreme nicety, of particus larity. carried to the state of finickyness, actually dry the fronts of these waists upon glass, choosing the broadest window pane. “Thus the shock and the wear of ihe hot iron is prevented. To dress in this fashion may be the self-appointed m'ssion of the = summer shirt waist girl, but it is well for her, If my none of lawn, nor ite waist, white shc be blessed with a mother or with some other work-loving member of the household, for else her ghirt waist will be shirt rags before the June roses have blown. A more serviceahle sort of waist s the Gibsonian, i J% not difficult to_make, This walst looks very much to the un- cultured eye Jike a man's old-fashioned shirt, bosom and all, with this difference, that there is more breadth across the shoulders. The prime object of this waist is to give a woman width across the figure without fullness. The ruffled epaulette is not in style, nor is the shoulder puff. But this waist broadens the form by the laying of wardrobe. a plait or fold at the shoulder line. It is not a-difficult thing to accomplish, but the material must be a stuff with a body. such as madras cheviot. cambric, mercerized cotton, c rse linen and the cotton lawns. Canvas is also used. Plaids ‘In’ cotton make up. well in this shape and the only trimming that is 1'is a little row of pearl buttons the front and down the middle of popular servc for this s abie shape, which calls for a long, straight piece of the goods, so planned that it can be crossed in the back and the ends brought around to the front, where they come in under a buckle of the plainest sort. The simple .harness buckle is the approved one and the whole has a gentlemanly finish that is much liked by a the summer shirt waist girl. The Stylish Stock. The girl who is going to spend the summer in a shirt waist would do well to make-mp stockénby theé @oZen. For the moment there is a:demand, for the white stock and no other will do.. Of these the summer girl should have a hundred and all should be tall and trim and plain. Probably the fussy stock will arrive in due geason, but now there is a reaction from the velvet stock of winter and the call is for the stiff thing of muslin, of linen, of whité, no matter what it be, duck’ or canvas, just .so it is. white and cut on the new and improved lines. There is a charming waist that is made in the pastel colors, pale pink, pale blue. pale gray and butter. color. It .3 really so serviceable and so well adapted to many occasions that a' dozen of it would not be tqo many in this summer’s Iis pattern Is a very simple blouse and its only trimming is needle- work insertion, Tnis can be bought, for it need not be hand made, and the man- ner of placing it in the waist is one that shows it off well, One wide strip of the insertion cxtends from under the chin, right down the front of the walst, to the belt. Then comes a cluster of - naryow tucks. Then a wide bund of needlework reaching to the arm- holes. Thus the front of the walst Is al- most’exclusively of the insertion, but it has just enough of the cambric to mam- tain ‘its shape and body. Too many shirt walsts are made this summer without ard to serviceable- ness In any w. hey have, as the shirt walst makers y, “no body,” and.they cannot be dkpect to wear well and they do not wear well. Somebody, it may have been the spring poet, has discovered that the shirt walst makes woman look younger. Perhaps weman herself has discovered this long ago and that is the reason Wwhy she ‘wears it so continually. She herself—fair woman—declares that she wears it be- cause it is becoming. Can it be that she has wedded the qualities of youth and prettiness in one summer garment? Mrs. Langtry Waist. The Jersey Lily, Mrs. Langtry, who will A STRIPED MAPRAS WANST ... be a Jersey lily as long as she lives and bants; is out this spring in a white wash waist of lawn so sheer that it shows the underwaist. This is In pure pale green, without a touch of yellow or blue in it, a clear green that Langtry affects. An immense picture hat of black and green goes with this walst. Her skirt is a long trailing one in black silk, trimmed with an open lace design, with flowers in lace coming here and there upon the silk. This is told to show that the white wash waist really appears in the King's set and that famous beauties are wear- ing it. Great diversity in pattern cannot be claimed for the new summer waist. It is really much less varied than it was last year. It is almost entirely made in white and the waists that are not made in white are in the very delicate tones that might as well be white, as far as their wearing qualities are concerned, for they soil just as soon and are just as perishable. After washing, when they have taken on a still paler tone, then they are prac- tically white and might be laid away in a drawer that is devoted to white walsis. They are selling shirt waist boxes for the keeping of the nicer waists. These are lined with silk and very highly scented. The waists are laid in them while damp, to gblwrb the rr:grn.nc& The cL:vcg;ah:::‘s tightly. uch & hox pur- SR M A" Sl Salats s B made out of a pastel box, lined with silk or . with cheesecloth, which is quite as good, and gives forth the sachet better. For Consuela’s Waists. The Duchess of Marlborough, who, as & brunette, affects white continually, re- cently ordered of her Lendon:shirtmaker a set'of padded overlids, filled with sachet, to lay between her shirt waists, as they were piled in their boxes. ‘The Duchess boasts the finest lace walst in the world of washable fabrics. It is all of Valenciennes.lace, with the rows cun- ningly put together with hemstitching. It is perfectly sheer and'is worn over a waist of India lawn, which, in turn, re- quires a corset cover, for the hand can be seen through+it as through chiffon. In the waist that i{s planned for the woman who is worth less than ten mil- lions there is the grass linen, which comes in brown and green and in other tones, with brown and green leading in favor. There 18 no whaist as serviceable as this none that should be so subject of study by the woman of every: day tastes. How to vary the brown grass linen waist so that one day it will look dressy enough for luncheon and the next day plain cnou*h for housework should be looked into by her. The brown waist or the tan walst, which is the prettier name for this color, may be made to run the whole gamut of sty It can be made up with yoke and cuffs and stock of Oriental goods. Or it can be made up with the white lace yoke and the white lace stock and cufts. These fancy materials give it a light look, for tan seems to mirror its surroundings and can be made paler or ker, A very good way to trim the brown linen walst {s with straps of white. Let two of them run down the front and let straps trim the yoke in stray fashion from the collar to the bust. A band of white can border the cuffs. ‘The tan walst will be so thoroughly in fashion that it will be difficult to entirely remove it from the domain of style, no matter how it is treated, but it may be made prettier by one treatment than by another. o= There come the most attractive Ilittle bands of white linen, with a hemstitching along each edge, or with a catstitching. This trimming can be bought by the yard, and it is just right for the adornment of the Plnln shirtwaist. It saves work, too, for it need:only be applied just as one would sew on braid, whereas tucks mean work, and embroidery is = matter of ap- plied art. g The polka dotted materials are used to trim white and pale blue. There is the old-fashioned white, with black polka dots and this is one of the most useful of trim- mings. It is cut up and made into bands, and this is applied to the shirtwaist so as_to outline a sailor collar. By a little trick it can be sewed only by the upper edge, and in this way the collar semblance {8 complete. The lower edge of the pelka dotted band will project over the shoulders and lie loose upon the back and front of the waist. A little taste must be used in doing work of this de- scription. There is a fad this summer—for when was the summer girl ever fadlass—for using twin pins upon the front and back of the stock. Large round cameos are set in gold frame work and the pins are set one in the middle of the front and one in the middle of the back. ‘The new shirt waists have collars that are hooked in the back and very often the hook shows. Or there is a collar button, occurring in the middle of the back of the band, and this shows. The twin pin covers this and establishes neatness and finish. Old cuff buttons, round and unwieldy, are useful for this purpose and look very well set In pin style. A jeweler puts on the pin arranges it so that it looks a8 though it had never been a cuff button. Pins for the Stock. To be very much in the fad the summer #irl can select her birthstone and have pins, one for the front of her stock, one for the back of her stock and one for the back of her hair. It will hold up the short hairs and look very nice, les catering to a fancy. The neater .the finish of the stock the more fashionable it will be. Positively the neatest of all’ finishes is the. little round pin of mock stones, perhaps, if one does not happen to own the real, with its twin In the back. There are shirt waist charm pins, wish bones and horseshoes, trifles that cost little and adorn much. Try the placing of these upon the front and the back of the neck, accurately, and see what a setting they give you. + The pointed stock will be worn with tue shirt waist, but it 1s may not launder w piain, but it 1s cut to a t i and the point is long and sharp. gives length to the throat and chunky-necked woman is It may be advi ace figure great curved well thus app for the inevitable in_a red lace looks and it 1 be ripped off renovation put o If thin girls were U style in the fall they are absolutely the noOw. The waists are cut so full that y will not allow an ounce of fat and the woman with too much av pois must hasten to get rid of it. look unsightly in the shirt waists that are being brou out. The round sed for all who are not slim t bre ttoa point in front, but not to the exaggerated point known as the French poiut. very long point s a mistake for the fat woman, though she is the one of all wo- men who may be convinced that she can wear it. Do not think because you have pulled your walst down to a point six inches below your beilt line that you neo~ essarily look slender. Often you look gro- tesque. The Belt Line. None of the new models show the very long point, though all are longer in the front than in the back. They are pulled down a little, that is all and fastened low. This is accomplished by means of the dress skirt, which is caught down with the corset hook or other contrivance, thus making the waist seem longer. Girls of great slenderness are wickedly wearing the very short waisted shirt waist. They know that they can do it, but that it will look funny on the fat sister. It would be positively cruel to hint at st is-ad the extravagance to which the summer shirt waist is being carried. It is now classed with the summer luxuries and ranks with the frills and fine fancies. It s a mass of lace and insertion, the finer and the more delicate the better. Often it is 80 delicate a thing that another under- waist is required to wear beneath it and all these walsts are a part of the plan of the summer shirt walst. Sleeves, while mightily fancy, are also mightily plain. You can be in style with a full sleeve that is simply brought in to the cuff, gathered in such a way that most of the fullness is at the back of the sleeve to make a little bag. Of course there are sleeves that show more varie- ties, but these are more for the fluffy sum- mer girl than the summer shirt walst girl The new shiny materials are very much in style n, but for & while even they are overs) lowed by t! wonderful de- mand for the fllmy white fabrics. There is this about the sheer white stuffs tha they look like I and betweenglace an women there has been an amiiation. A cyn mode has been introduced by one of the best modistes, one wWho many shirt walsts for Newport maks oa. summer—shirt wi by the 1’% cu! Hl?l myriad, is tor the making of lace collars and to be worn with %:m :‘h1 ro- cently completed a crocheted lace. The Lace Collars. The front came almost to the belt and the back was as short as the shoulders. This was to be slipped on over g shirt walst of white Indla muslin, w was perfectly plain, round and of & full blouse attern. o Of course the collar could be hnndm separately. If the fancy dictated it co be lined with & bit of pink silk or with white, which makes the prettiest lning. Positive sensations will be created at Ne'&rt, that city of dress, this summer by se who wear black and white, Black gowns with dashes of white will be seen, and the distinction between and the selected colored gowns be apparent. gm critical study of and white might be the topic for a dress lecture. So very many of the walsts button down the back—so very many. To quote from a modiste who is designing a new shirt waist for & woman to wear during March of an Easter shirt is certalnly in, it Is difficult to fasten and, to the woman who lives in a hotel, it means a tip every time, quite & noticeabls amount when reckoned up at the close of the season. “Large, handsome buttons are . worn down the back, and are made noticeable in point of ornamentation. "&o I were golng to have one Eas sult and only one, &nd it were Incumbeni upon me to wear it all the spring, I woul select ome In fine blue serge; something between a bright blue and a navy. This 1 would e most modishly by trim- ming the skirt with heavy lace around the bottom and with stitched bands at Lholtb.i.d of {hedl.ct:.o “If lace seeme perishable, thers come handsome silk bands, all stitohed, that can be put on from the hem of skirt upward at intervalg of six or inches, the bands all of different len, b 80 that they come up high and others are shorter. A Modiste’s Idea. “It cannot be cut more prettily than as a new little short coat, one of the sort that is trimmed with tan-colored lace. It is open in front to show the Irish lace ;llllrt waist. A hat can exactly match in ue. “The tri-corner hat would look well with such a suit, and the newest three- cornered hats are trimmed with a band of gold cord around the edge and another band. of gold- cord below that, while gold rosettes, very neat and very small, loop the hat.’ This is very coquettish, but requires a pretty forehad or a pretty bang. “The hair drapery for Easter should be low and the hair should be pulled do in long waves that lie nearly brows. ; Such very good effects tained with the three-cornered h treated.” It is almost a pity that the shirt should ever have departed from it mal simplicity. But now that it h. sut of its humble domain and is launched into. the great world of fashion one only welcome it, for even with its f and fixings it Is a great improvement upon every other waist, and no- matter how_expenstve it may have become there is always an imitation waist, almost as good, that will answer the purpose. / ht