The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 9, 1902, Page 7

THE SUNDAY CALL. ' i equally good results. If well selected 2z fon or gauze, s a thing not serious _The outside was looped up at the back """ £ o - and at each side, giving a tri-cornered these colors wear out together, fading to- enotgh to deserve a minute's :‘nn:‘l;i‘fir’?‘ effect. The top was tiimmed very quietly Sether, and looking well one as long as tion. It can be accomplished by BtUnf with 3 bunch of small pink roses, set in the other. : 1 out the lozenges of velvet ”mtherfi wi%h loops of pink velvet ribbon. Three long Spring Sleeves and Cuffs. i them in place, or by fastening loops of the velvet came over the brim o at wi Bl e e of sancilege. and neatly banded it. Nothing simpler A sleeve that Will be seen upon not a I T O ot is to be the most sensa- than this could be well imagined. few of the coats -of Baster is the. coat t se flower T t aster hats will be higher than they Sleeve slashed below the elbow. It is a al of sprir To fllustrate uis there < v looks decid Bzl A ot of steeple -cloth sleeve and looks decidedly common- med a little round bat with PEES Jast vear, Lhough ot of mdeney place down to the point indicated. Then, The toward the square crown and the English Just below the elbow, there is a sharp ss of these flowers walking hat with high rolling sides will slash in the goods 2nd the lining comes nay be me: oroughfares a top and brim entirely of vioie black. Black braid forms a conventiongl z assy depths hole h is " sig! . T INepten ool hat pere are many be_seen. out, hanging In a great bag. GeNET N o C o Ao nd eyt il The way to trim the English hat ot _ The feature of the sleeve is this lining, A N R s g _common folk hat, 2 flowe Spring 15 with fowers, Iet them be Which may be in $oft chiffon, side-plaited one that srows suddenly wider at the R e A while the top 12 %) i massed 10w At one side of the crown and and trimmed with narrow ribbons put on b AR L S o U A DR on and that no one leaves laid k let them be so numerous that they appear 1o lie between e chiffon plat hand and the other underneath, so that d one sees 80 MA1Y lOW- to be crowded together. Let them reach These ribbons hang down in loops on the. way that, in (ciling of from the front around to the back, with- outside of the sleeve. the nd lies ly in the sleeve. To this sleeve there is a fancy lining. nd wears them. flows as come to €rs ed and refuted and replaced scarcely knows when vr where OuUt a suggestion of stem; just one bed of Then the sleeve comes in small again, Brocade makes a charming inside for o Reiaben A hitus tops are mood and so 10w, crushed roses. and ‘s finished at the wrist in a fancy fhe.spring. cloak, be it long OF ;SROrt, and et " arnations, Queen Alexandra’'s se- The English Hats. 2 h‘uxx br -ade s now much les; expen- nd aster ~ 1inz sive 2 as. There are arie oS londdanyie flowers, and ers resembling Then there {s the English walking hat e g, QEMATIy s yas F THoEe e Bt e RIS e, are seen, but nothing oOf a fancy straw, that is trimmed with its brocades with Persian cftect, showing yel- PR N ited destiny and the rose. little rose buds at one side. At the base Qv sl ue and red and pink, all ex- 1 e {4 g Pl S B il o quisitely blended and very light in weight. i it is now er bonnet is not in styie. -with the velvet and making a chou. The idea that a brocade must be heavy is » spring hat much be- the floral toque has re- It is a noticeable fact about the coming Quite exploded and. the newest ones are o g Semggation t. and \h\m »rfr ‘]hmn uwm1 the Easter hat that simplicity is aimed alter ;_’;—‘gr;'eé“’r'&-r’l';gfgg-‘;“fr‘;);g;mgrvi;wlyhde- 5 P ir ana upon the top of the pompadour. and accomplished. This is quite contrar: ses, ey have is reserved the P » st 4 q ¥ et a sort of linen back that speaks well for adgear. the Easter hats may see too rge and too wonderfu r may be - r the suppos of contrast. The winter hat was dark ani the Easter hat is light. Seen together, one following the other directly, the hats of Easter seem too bright for good taste, but later, when all are wearing them, and the colors are rivaled by the rays of the sun, they will seem nore too loud. The Hat of Black. The “nice”hat is said to be the black bat, and, 1 se who share this opin- fon, who think that every hat should be more or less black, there are millinery at- tractions that will tempt the dollar forth in short order. in bla ine and and white, hats with tops ¥ are trim- nost marvel- nd at the back e. But do not at is black it is for some of the ively startling in ey are inexpen- Quite the con- ts are pos That 2000 ¢ 1 O P V00 0enadygoagry to the mplicated arrangements of last Easter. ‘ILhe nat of medium size, of very sumpie shape, round in the brim and me- dium hign in the crown, seems Lo be ine basis upon which the milliners are work- ing. 1uen comes the looping of the brim the draping of the crown and the evolu- tion oI tae snape. The wire hat 15 to be very popular. This is the hat made of wire unaernealh, but bent and shaped to the head. It is afters ward trimmed with maune and cnion and with velling and flowers, until it be comes a hat. Toques are made in thi; way and the lbveiiest of littie Hower ha(ls A big soft tuile toque was made of wire with a wire crown and a wire brim. The whole was prettily covered with chiffon, with the outside layer of chiff dotted with loze of black velvet. he toque was slightiy tiited and there was an ex. aggerated rose at one side. Veils will be numerous and costly. Such fancies as appear in the veil line must = = really be seen to be fully ADDI'CCI}aled. l::“w ; EASTER CLOAIE O mod hllh.:‘v. ::;q\‘l‘lr'us not one, but three = els, all worn together, though each in o X A L R TABOT ARRAIVGENENT OF Spring Veils. PARF BLUE SILI4, K BORDERED lhThP mmmoxvl l\willhisr(a}::eev;{);stl‘flnro:: =L . e at comes next to the : n ro WITIH WIFIIT color and gives a pretty glow to the cheeks., Tnen there is the veil that is draped around the brim of the hat, the plumage veil it is called, because if there k at an Easter hat Few will be the small hats. Hats will be a bird’s breast around the brim-it holds e it It is the feathers in place. and thosé if not over the face, at least over Finally there comes the medium heavy ose no time re just a few before they are of that want such a the whole cal and an- Fortunately it h one’s s not m pu eces for hats can be ade 5 hased ready made, the some of them, em epecia for the woman s and ends together to makes her hat this e milli- ell her your kind-hearted are, she will y fit you ou: straws, new year, aming. They made of ‘ 5, Ve y pretty, and w flat brim nged that it The draping of the brim is an important t will advise you is knowr t n chiffon and Cove w dots. The { velvet and is dit- of the veil, white on ¢ he other. The dots upon o cream colored veil were gray on one side and red on e reverse. Upon another they were black on ope side and cream colored on the other. Still another showed black dots on ore side and turquoise on the other, Fhe matter of dotting & veil, be it chif- ferent on oppos large hal 1s preserved. There is a tendency toward the three- cornered hat and the brim of the hat is turned sharply up at one side and draped with bands of velvet ribbon, to give the effect of a tri-cornered hat, tied with gold cord. This is really pretty and very chic. Unfortunately the hat that turns back from the face is not becoming to many and cannot be worn by those of more than a certain age. Once past the de- butante period, or once over one's first two seasons, then the bhat that turns back from the face reveals too much and gives a mature look to the brow, whica Is not to be tolerated by those of good aste. On_the contrary the very large hat should not be worn by very short people or by those with very small faces, The immense hat is reserved for immense height, and, as the inches of the girl di- minish, her hat should grow smaller. The small, compact toque is the prettiest for la_petite The Easter hat in certain of its- vari- eties will be turned up at one side. The bats that are turned down in front and turned up at the back will be seen, but by far the most popular hat will be the one that has its side tilt. The perfectly round hat, with its small curling brim, is made to tilt by an arrangement of bandeaux. Trailing Trimmings. The trimming under the brim will trail upon the hair and it will be, if not a bird trimming, then flowers. The bird that poises under the brim is very pretty, but the flower treatment is best for spring. The chiffon scarf is good under the. brim and is very graceful as it sweeps the waves of the coiffure. The tri-cornered hat is out in a new style, which threatens to draw a certain clientele its way at Easter. It is turned up at each side and at the back, so that the front comes down low over the fore- head in a point. A Jovely hat of this description was boxed and marked with the name of Mrs. 0. H. P. Belmont. It was in yellow satin straw, 50 open as to need a lining. It was in braids of most fancy design. Soft pink chiffon peered through the open meshes. de, so that the appearance of & vef], all dotted, or squared or open meshed —the show vell—that falls from the hat brim over the face. It {s merely a matter of arrangement, the wearing of these vells, and not so very difficult when one becomes accustomed to handling them. Mrs. Admiral Dewey wears two veils always and so protects that complexion of which she is so proud. The Easter muff is a thing not to be for- gotten. It is a soft, chiffon like affalr to be carried Baster day and after Easter until June. The peopie Who are planning a Newport season, Mrs. Stuyvesant Fisl and Mrs. Duncan Elliott, and the -others who lead the society of matrons, have sev- eral ordered in thelr coming wardrobes. Mrs. Fish is to have a muff of blue chit- fon, very light and untrimmed save by flounces. of the chiffon and pufiings with- out number of the same and layers of lace, Such an immense muff as it is, very flat, very déep and at least half a yard wide. It is light and will weigh nothing carried in the hands, and that it makes a pictur- esque ornament none will deny. The Easter muff may be of fur. There is the coronation muff, which shows er- mine with carnations, and_there is an- other coronation muff of minever and lit- tle roses. The middle of the muff, the muff proper, is quite conccaled under the bank of roses that lie upon it. At each side roses project, dancing at the end of their long stems and making a lovely bou- quet. Natural and Artificial. It i very ingenious to select roses that can be easily matched in the natural blooms. Then one can add half a dozen natural_roses to the artificlal ones upon the muff and be elegantly gowned, indeed. They say.that the muff will be carried on the hottest of August evenings as a plazza accessory, just as the ermine shoulder cape i3’ worn all summer and the fur traveling cape. Be that as it turns out later, certainly there are enough xm,ms making now to insure such a re- sult. The Lady Lenox long cloak is a lovely thing. In deep blue, of very light weight satin cloth, it 1s trimmed down the front with a jabot arrangement of red silk, edged with white and embroidered in black dots. This mixing of red and blue is much seen and has the merit of.look- ing well always, for no two colors mix better or stand the climate with more Spring cuffs are wide bands much trim- One cuff is half white satin and 1t is banded with black velvet ribbon. Another cuff shows an up- per part of green and a lower part of their wearing properties. Flowers, always the-emblem of spring, this March and April in There really seems no limit to the number of ways half black satin. flowers are treated. One of these is quite deserving a place in the highest art gal- lery of dress records of this century as an artistic achievement. The fabric, or the foundation upon which the flow - treated, is a blue satin of high fi A yard of Spanish lace is purchas the flowers are cut off the lace. There are Spanish laces that are very coarse and that show big open roses. This not the true lace of Spain, but it is the color of Spanish lace and feels like it, the same satiny touch and the shiny outside; so it passes for real Spanish. After the flowers are cut out they are appliqued under the satin at short inter- vals, and the satin is cut out on top of the lace, or over it, leaving the raw edge of satin on the right side. With a needle now, an embroidery design in white sil: is used, so as to outline the flowers. There can be a cat stitch of silk or a more fancy one, the object being to se- cure the lace roses well In place. Around the whole there is now worked an empire wreath. Or a little lace can be sewed around the whole, to look like an empire design. This fabric is used for the over- dress of an evening gown and for the bodice. In employing so delicate a material, an one that Involves so. much handiwork, there is an opportunity for ingenuity. Th underskirt can be long, but the overdress need not be so lengthy. It can fall just a little below the knees, to meet the flounce which is on the drop skirt and which be- gins to billow out just at the knees. So with the bodice. The fabric need be used only in the yoke, while the vest and remainder of the of something else, usually of the drop skirt. he handsomest of gowns handsomest It is time for t umbrella. Seo r white hand very cheap- s shows a knob be the metal of showy metal. 21l should begin o think about her 1 here before she k