The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 2, 1902, Page 10

10 THE SUNDAY o the misery of the woman es her own sewing,” there new kind of trimming, a t- double, ¢ secure! of t¥ Evening Waists. material z the chiffox Then & ribbon is draped al the edge of the corsage and knots here there, shoulders are lovely in of chiffon aud loveliest of gold ns, while compli- are not things of aterials are the stand- whatever novelty there Is them lies in the new ways put together. 1 of the thinnest of white de over a slip of white rt was swecp length, front 1ay upon the ground in foamy le Around the skirt, a little above the knee helg! re was a pear] trimming, \ y dee » arranged that the points y one up and one down. To accomplish this, the trimming had to be twisted, turned right over so that the big points turned upward towaru the walst line and then downward toward the hem of the gkirt. In the points were criss-cross bands of white satin ribbon, set directly inside the big open trimming of pearl. This is & quite new treatment, you will =gree. Then came the prevalent satin folds which were in turquolse. They went sround the skirt in @ large point-shaped design, and below them the skirt was laid in ten tiny tucks. Then there was a grad- uated chiffon flounce headed with lace and trimmed with lace, and under it was a knife plaiting of chiffon. Elaborate Gowns. And all of this goes to show that the woman who acte as her own dressmaker must, indeed, “‘get busy” if she {s going to produce a gown decorated in the latest manner. Yet the effects which she will produce are not fussy ones. Much less elaborate are they than the extensive appliques to which she resorted last fall, but they are more work and, thereby, she is the sufferer. Pearls are the gems of the hour, and fortunately for her of modest purse they can be so well imitated that the decep- tion is not apparent. The real pearl is a jewel of much worth, but the imitation can be bought for very little and, as it Is often quite as pretty and answers the purpose as well, there is no reason for not patronizing it. Where jewels are bought as an {nvestment for one's money it s quite different and the lines of argu- ment change, but, If they are purchased simply as a decoration, a fashionable ac- cessory of dress, the imitatlon article is even better than the real, for it can be [4 thrown aslde when the craze passes and & new gem can be purchased. To sweet simplicity have we gone for the new belt. It is a sash, soft, heavy, plain and most girlishly arranged. You can use it either with the bow In the back or without and in either case it is modish. Take a wide plece of liberty satin ribbon, or panne ribbon, and tle it around the waist. Pull the front down to make a long point and catch it in place with little pearl pins. The back can have its bow If it so pleass you. The new bow shows two little perky loops and two.ends that sweep the floor. This Is the bow worn upon a white gown of the bride, Mrs. Chauncey Depew. The bow is located exactly at the back of the belt and the ends are pulled out and made to stand erect in chou fashion, pointing a little upward above the beit. trail in the back and are finished with ribbons or the loulsines. side plaitings of white chiffon. \ the shade depending a Ifttle upon the cos- tume with which the chou is to be worn. ‘Watermelon pink, old rose, claret red, raspberry and wine are good in the softest tints, not too pronounced. Coffes color makes a pretty chou fer evening, If preferred the sash ribbon can be and cream is always good and can be pinned around like a belt and the pin- worn with anything. Oatmeal color is a ning concealed under a chou which is new gray; it is not bad, by any means, located at one side of the Welt. A new chou has been discovered. It is tone, say blue, or cardinal, or ever emer- called the “star.” To make It you need ald. the following materials: Two yards of double-faced satin ribbon. pink. This is a pink that is very deep. Sewing silk, the color of the ribbon. As the little girl sald of it,“It's as pink Half a yard of millinery wire. A set of nimble fingers. An artistic eye. These are the requirements for the peginning to select a champagne colored star chou, and one that has taken Paris ribbon, for it is so sure to be a success by surprise and captivated the feminine when done. Champagne is that very faint lon. ""xl;u place of the plain satin ribbon, ltb- erty ribbon cah be used, or the pretty The ends new taffeta ribbons, or even the millinery but requires a background of pronounced Let your chou be, say, a watermelon as it can be; If it was any pinker it would be red.” Perhaps, though, it would be best for a yellow, almost amber, yet lighter, which is now seen In so many of the new silks, and adapts {tself better than red. Beginning the Chou. ’ The dressiest choux are in plain colors. Take two yards of satin, panne, libertx or plain satin, and, grasping it near one end, make a bow knot, with just one 100p. Do not have any end at all, but draw the 1oop so mear the termination of the ribbon that the end disappears when the bow Is pulled tight. Draw into & bow with a hard little knot securing it. Take your finger out of the loop after you have pulled it as tight as you can and survey your work. You have now a smart little ribbon end. Take your ribbon in the left hand and make loops, drawing the ribbon back and forth untll you have made six loops, each ong. Hold the loop tightly tireo inches long, our hand and take the plece of ribbon In your right hand, ready to tle. range the loops 3o that three point one way and three the other way. If you have looped the ribbon correctly there will be no diff culty in doing this, for the ribbon will na ally fall in that manner. The next stage In i making of the chou the critical one, and ‘his is where the amatsur falls. The secret of success- ful chou tying lles in making the knot very firm and small. All beginners are afraid to pull upon the ribbon, and tb result is a big, soft, shapele: loose center, which spoils the The ribbon must be pulled in & knot, so hard and tight that you fear that it oreak. - Tight Middle Knot. When you have separated the locps of ribbon so that threo point one way and three the other, three up and three down take the loose end of ribbon your right hand aand twist arg;ind the middle of the loops Make two or three turns unt! you are sure that the knot w not pull. Then draw the ribbon through in such a way as to tie it. Pull the end tightly. Tug away at it until there Is apparently no knot at all, the whole having disappeared un- der your vigorous tugging. ‘When you have pulled it as hard as you can you will. have a hard knot in the mid- dle and six standing ends. Pull them out and let them point in all directions, to make a pretty, graceful set of loops. Hera Yyour taste can come in. It is the style to stand the loops out as much as possible, and though the coat may crush them they can be Fulled out again. The six-looped chou is called a star, but if the actual star-shaped chou is desired two of the loops can be twisted together, to leave a five-looped figurs, or in making the chou five loops can be formed instead of six, as this is entirely at the discretion of the one who i{s making the chou. The star 1s just now the fashionable thing, l‘o‘:fld -lt is really prettier than to make five ere will remain now a long, . Take it In the two hands and {nn‘g:’: l’:cd freclsoly like the loop upon the other endp. f there is difficulty in getting the ends the same length, for the amateur cannot always accurately gauge quantitles, the chou can be knotted and secured with uflkm t.? to make a little knob-like end— m!’v‘ow co“:azn' drawn into a bow. e opportunt sew!: silk. Take a needleful of silk and ‘secuis Continued on Page Eleven.