The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 19, 1902, Page 7

of dress one when forty days gowns sewing cir- imerous and popular ught out during the f i upposed to be 1s dependable upon ing. One can no matter constantly 1. It will . in style me and same No matter how e! iticism can be to co inue to Varying the Gown. £ one’s gown is the r somethin st rearranged means the any reasons ‘ayriking” is the fict that it f the main r tive, too eas- character, as ¥ nondescript for example, is owns many bodices s 7 once a different audi- nce her ne bodice of moire, per- shion well and attrac- should pay ai- tion to detail. Neatness in Dress. of these is the most difficult one of the most expensive. Neatness twentieth century, 1302, sense does mere brushing and binding; it to the characteristics of the e band upon the collar, ce or twice a day, the marvel- e distinguish the is something not all t all can come very enuity will take the place hemes will make gown seem like new. to be a black and white season, and for this the woman of not many gowns will rejoice. With black one can do so much end all on such a limited amount, compared to that which one can do with other colors. A black gown dressed out to-day with a side panel of gold lacings, arranged upon a back- ground of corn colored taffeta, looks well; and if the bodice be also in corn color or the yellows, or in white, it makes a full suit. To-morrow the same gown might be trimmed with a hip yoke of tan-col- ored lace, with the yoke arranged so that it comes up on the bodice nearly to the bust. This makes a very pretty form of vari- stion with any gown. Attention to detail is & matter that can« Purses, Belts, Choux, Stocks, | Noveltiss in the way of Jew- elry end Hangings, Skirt Lift- ers and Art Buttons Easily | Bring the Price of the Toilet Far Above That Paid for the Gown — What Mrs. Henry Clews Jr, (formerly Mrs. Freddy Gebhard) Is Wearing. Mrs. Roosevelt’s Pretty Dress, Materials That Are Being Purchased for Spring Wear. Gowns for Sweet Sixteen—The Fashionable Way to Raise the Bkirt Mrs, Leslie Carter’s Spider Web. . & = o not be overestimated, and under this heading comes a consideration of the small articles that, while they go to make up a woman’s wardrobe, are often of so expensive a brand that the woman who invests must have a heavy purse upon which to draw. Cost of Small Things. The society woman who solemnly as- serted at a ladies’ luncheon, in confidence over the teacups, that she had on a gown that cost $75, while the small things of dress—not her underclothin, ible articles—cost $800, was gant exception to the rule women who dress in this E large one and includes not only the magic chain of the women of the 4%, but many put $309 into trifles these days, and from the waist up- ward 1 ning with the gold link purse whic at one sids the size of a where dangles and its little jeweled great possibilities The chou, from bei adornment, has now handsome. It is m into and in the center there rests a rose. Fro the middle of the chou, coming from der the rose, there hang two ribbon ends and these are tled into a bow. which is fastened to the side of the belt A sort of ribbon harness is arra the chou set. It begins with the bow 2t the back of the neck and is cor the chou upon the bust ends hang to the waist and are twisted around it to make a belt, and finally are tied in front or at the side A jeweled chou worn b He: Clews Jr., who was once Mrs. Gebhard, was in corn color, with a center of top: 1g a mere trifl become some The New Fabrics. But it is toward the new fabrics th d turns at thi 1f there gown to be purchased the selec f the goods becomes of great impo A year ago the fancy was all for the 1d when summer deepened cappeared or wer. 1 set, while the th. and zik rial of the ye Zibeline still holds its own, but in pur- chasing a new gown, one that can be worn into Easter days, it ter to g something that will look more Zibeline purchased now at will come in good the fall can excee he satisfaction w an feels at being uble thing in October whick nable, well ving been bought late and which recefved out some- thing vet stylish as and tear. But for the gown t at is to be two mo st adily during the ir which looks very hairy upon the s without being too shaggy, the hairs being in. This sort of camel's hair the popular Oxford and h a glossy surface. It is & makes up well for ver purchased in a med hairs, it is well to trim i bands of black cloth arra pattern. If one t brown, then black or brown or deep red be the ming m bl The Spring Colors. Automobile red and black will be worn €0 much together that one is s in buy ing and in making up a spring gown in these shades. While selecting a spring suit it is well ember that, in spite of all fashion- able predictions, purple, heliotrope, violet and mauve come in with each March. Not more regularly do the March winds blow these colors appear. Purple was once ically the only color of spring, just s the color of fall, and it is s t is most worn—purple and its close relative, blue, In the purples and blues and all the shades of heliotrope there are new goods that have no woolly surface but are more in the nature of tweed. There is a coarse outside which is very attractive from the standpoint of wear and at sight one can understand that it will not attract dust, but will shake out well. The Scotch plaids, the homespuns, the Irish tweeds and English suitings are all beginning to appear and, in color, in pat- tern and in attractive surfaces, they were never equaled. For a dressy suit, say for an Easter suit, the satin cloth is good and comes as low or as high as one cares to go. There are broadcloths of light weight and cash- meres as good as broadcloth, though not as heavy; also ladies’ cloths and goods that are called satin-faced goods. From these one can select. A handsome style of gown‘for the street will be made of velling of rather heavy weight, yvet so that its lining shows through in a shaded fashion. This comes in all the colors and can be recommended in the paler shades. It makes an excel- lent suit and in violet is particularly pret- ty. A violet veiling, made over pink, done in tallored fashion and trimmed with wide satin ribbon stitched flat to the goods upon each edge, will form the basis of a handsome suit for a well-dressed woman. The Drop Skirts. The question of drop skirts and linings is pretty well settled for the Easter sea- son. There will be drop skirts whether there are linings or not. Silk drop ekirts, to be put on like a petticoat, come with all *he nice suits and those that are not supplied with them can have them quick- ly made. A very thin, very close-fitting taffeta petticoat, all of one color and trimmed, not with lace but with a taffeta flounce, makes a delightful drop skirt, one that can be renewed often and will not wear out. A new material for waists is coming in, or a very old material made new. This is moire, that old-time silk which was worn by the traditional grandmother for her Sunday best, and which always appeared upon mourning occasions. A moire waist, made up smartly and embellished with Russian cuffs, an up-to- date stock and trimmed with a bright chou upon the bust, is one of the most at- tractive of walsts. An Easter bride is to have not one but four molre waists. One 1s broad upon the shoulders, having a wide plait laid at each side to make the shoulders appear wider. it is in shell pink. It is double breasted and buttons with small silver buttons. A black moire waist buttons with black silk buttons, placed a little on one side, while waists respectively in blue and in white are buttoned with white enamel and with e pink buttons, h button of tiny size and surrounded Ly a gold setting. For Schoolgirls. Gowns for schoolgirls are taking an im- P it place in the world's fashions. Those who design dresses have not fergot- ten that the growing girl exists and. are n 1o a realizing sense of the ng the girl's garments as they should S ablishment upon a fash- ionable street in New York that now em- ploys designers to originate dr for girls of 14 and 16. These must be . at, becoming and not too expensive, The when the girl fully »wn, but not yet developed, was com- pelled to wear a round skirt and a round waist, diversified, perhaps, by a tuck or two, have passed away A suit planned for sweet sixteen, one that might be worn calling. or walking, or to school, is the work of a professional dress designer. Its elegance depends upon the fabric from which it is built. If in tweed it would make a good school dress: if in corduroy, an outing frock; if in satin 5th, a calling gown, for such calls as the een-year-old girl makes. The skirt is placed upon a band that neatly fits the waist. At the belt the irt is laid in side plaits of three inches ch. There are two plaits at each side. The front hangs plain in an unbroken anel, and the back is laid in a double box plait, just so as to give room for a pocket hole and to cover the same. The plaits are stitched flat to a point about even with the knees and then re- leased, to make a flare. Thus the skirt is full around the foot. A deep hem com- pletes it. ard there are two rows of Stitch- ing at the top of the hem. For Sweet Sixteen. The waist Is a very simple thing in gray exactly the color of the skirt. re are tucks of taffeta laid upon it so as to make a panel down each side of the front. The buttons are small, clear white ones, sewed on with a shank and adding h to the waist trimming. The back is 1 and snug. : making a dress for sweet sixteen re- member that it is her desire to appear, not youthful, but mature. She will not fancy the gown buttoned in the back, nor will she like the waist with its baby yoke nd guimpes. Her teste will be for the st with long lines, and, indeed, she looks more shapely in such a one. The-tucked hips, released below, while good for sweet een, are suitable for children of 8 or 10 years, and are more be- coming than the kilted skirt, while pre- serving many of its properties. An English box coat looks ‘well upon sweet sixteen, and the coat that hangs straight in front with buttons under the flap is the best, bec: of the style at- tached to its plainness. There is a smart- ness about the plain coat which must be studied to be understood. Around the hem there can be row after row of stitching, which is the way the English coat of spring will be finished. Since the long skirt is in, and is to stay there are various devices for lifting it. e most popular and most graceful lift that is accomplished by a wom- an’s own hand, and the habit of lifting the skirt, once formed, becomes a second nature. At first it tires, but when a wom- an learns the fashionable lift and culti- vates it she soon becomes accustomed to it. Yet there are other methods of lifting the skirt. One of these ig by the fob. This is an attachment of ribbon hanging at one side of the belt. On the end of the ribbon is a hook which catches the skirt, The latter can be raised to any height, or correspondingly lowered. Lifting the Skirt. There are several varietles of fob and, of course, they come in various stages of ele- gance. Some are jeweled and some not, some gold and some silver, some round and some square, and In the selection a woman shows her taste and her extrava. gance. The lift of spring, done by hand, will be the back lift. There is no other way of keeping the skirt off the street. The hand grasps as much of the material as pos- sible right in the middle of the back, and as low down as thay be—and lifts. There is no other way that is practicable. The very close sheath skirt will not admit of the side lift. The union of satin and silk may be classed among the novelties, Seen to- gether the two make quite an odd trim- ming, one that is not at first recognized. There come satin ribbons with a band of silk at each side, and silk ribbon with a strip of satin running down the middle. But if used freely, ribbon is expensive and those who must look to the littles prefer to buy a yard of satin and a yard of silk and experiment. . For the satin there should be as high a gloss as possible and for the silk there should be as little as possible. A high grade satin strip, with a border of peau THE SUNDAY CALL. de sole, stitched along each side, makes a very good trimming and can be used upon skirt or waist. For the skirt it is particu- larly to be recommended, as it is light in weight and does not add tosthe already tiresome burden. The question of lightening the skirt of the spring materials is one that is en- gaging serious attention. Heavy skirts seem to be coming in in spite of ‘the taf- feta bands, the peau de sole, the stitchings and the veilings that are used as trim- mings and which are undeniably light. Velling, very thin, cut in curved shape, looks very well upon the skirt of a gown. Cut it In the form of a great wheel, gev- ered, the end running interminably within the wheel, in endless chain fashion and apply to the skirt. Baste it carefully in placa and then run a stitching along each edge. It will be found to be very effective. A Spider Web. A new skirt trimming appeared upon the gown worn by Mrs. Leslie Carter off the stage. The gown was in black, a black Ottoman silk of coarse weave. The skirt was cut plain and sheath shaped and the waist was slightly bloused in front. The novelty lay in the trimming, which consisted of narrow bands of black velvet ribbon. These were arranged at the side exactly llke a spider web. The ribbons came out from a central place, diverging T o) = Sy e Ictorfal web, and there bons crossing it to make The velvet had small s here and there, ake %he ribbon sparkle. ‘web was_large enoug) cgr:: one side of the skirt and was all in in vogue. be applied to an old evening gown with the effect of making it look like new. the center of the web there could be a and if the gown were an or evening the animal could be one of those jeweled ones now so much like the typical ‘were narrower ri an intricate mesh. Jetted bead: enough to m Jetted spider, elegant one Mrs. Roosevelt is wearing many hand- One, on a recent occasion, of cream white black, without a particle of color near it. A smaller web decorated the front. The some gowns. bodice had one directl of the front, of large size. of trimming that could be easily applied at home and would decorate any black or white, bright or dull. It upon the middle was a graceful thing This is a kind o crepe, the skirt cut in the close fashion the bottom of the skirt over numerous frills of the same al. The closely fitted bodice was now prevalent, trimmed in lace applique, forming a yoke and vest, the whole design daintily out- lined with a tracery of gold threads; tHe tops of the sleeves were trimmed with the same lace, while the lower part flared over a full puff of white chiffon. The same trimming was gracefully arranged about the upper part of the skirt. Her hair ornament was a lace bow held in place by a rhinestone buckle, to which was added a white aigrette. The lady of the White House Is said to have no less than a dozen handsome new gowns, ail white,