The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 20, 1901, Page 3

p— O you know what a manchu is? No? Well, they are just the swellest of the swell these days. The Chinese imperial family used to be terribly exclusive In everr- ng. particularly their clothes. It was d i a crime for an ordinary Chinese to wear the color, make and style of the family. But it is far from being an for the American girl to wear instead of plastering her hair to her head and wearing the im- on extra state occasions s her hair, slips off her ting gown £nd gets into the loose nese manchu and curls up on a couch 1 el and a box of chocolates. words she wears it just the me @s she would an ordinary wrapper. Wor 111, she couid appear outside of pretty. snug fitting tea he manchu looks very queer 4 out of place with stays on. Anvhow it 0 le to get the stiff things ppens that the newest and £ svwn has been bor- inese nation. £ like a Japanese ki- rst glance one might idsome kimono that it e two prominent differences. e made high necked. A iing collar that buttons tightly t as comfortable as ped Japanese costume, and picturesque, but that part of sey tha ¢ taha imonos button directly down As a rule they can be folded way or the other, just as the wearer pleases, but the manchus button down one and under the arm. It is pot a que: of pleasure, but one of ne- cessity. They look awfully Oriental: just the brighest and the greatest quantity of col- ors that can be conceived: a lavender Liped with pink, royal blue with green, &nd all such combinations. ©One of the swellest is a cross between a green and a yellow. It is nmeither ona g nor the other. but a happy outcome he two. All thrcugh the siik are round brocaded pleces with Chinese ¢ embroldered in them. The bo: posed of seven different cnl ed on one over the other. t a tiny band sflver, then a nar- ad the silver again a marrow P! To give a little ce of black satin—just & suspiclon—divides the siiver from an- h comes the embroidered erflies and flowers. All colors of and several others added be- it beautiful and fancy 1 runs all about the neck, down the skirt and abe e bot- er side the skirt two feet and the trimm: Th came in that he met a— Nefther fear persuasion word. In t something more k to jafl and a ork resorted to, but nie lawyer tried roken senten:e ent the meces- sity £ n vow well dispos-d ¥ n that the slightes to en er where Ve . awyer, he r mission for a 1 on him The lawyer u sble to return v strange 10 = 2 physicizs, a ‘ From the furst th ple would expect t strangely drawn 1o e; friend he pow opened h ell extremely reticent ke at all it was to leave en he - He told his friend that in San Francisco be bad met a Jady with whom he fell desperately and irretrievably In iove. Thi ove was fully returned, but fhore w gome obstacles to thelr marriage 1 uld require time to remove. Time ne thing tat the lover o not af- He loved the lady of his cholce, t be loved boror more, and that honc » morigaged to his sister countr, the lovers parted on the steamer that him away through the Golden Gate 2% =24 hearts as human bodles could pport and live. Even there, within those w0 hearts, was a strife far greater than yeical strife that this strange man was about to encounter. Of course, the had been put end answered: our country or your love—which will you sacrifice?” The sequel gives the an- swer. Doubtless men will revile ker, for she was an American, But women dare not 1f they are honest with themselve Bo the torture existed and wouid not be #tilled: for whe, poor gitl, loved her coun- Dut she Joved her country’s enemy elso, end went wilertly back to her home 10 gusrd her secret and fervently pray for ber lovers safety, and just as fer- Z75# 7 BLUE ) ZRIMMED WITH 2 COLOR S vently pray for her counlr;"rtrlamph. f Both ber prayers were answered, but in what an extraordinary manner, when Count Divizza begged her to join him. This she tried to do, but falled. Broken in bealth from the fearful suspense and STRAPPED WITH BLUE.J\ GOLD, S/LVER AND RED. N - om the contention that had so Jeag within her, together with the secret tearing sway from family, home and triend her love y! place; perhaps—well, who can tell what—In the PgsEs L7 CENTRAL TARIAN Wi \ 3 \m\\“ s 'IIM A second piace, had prevented her dlsclosing her secret to n those who were most dear to her. ‘Women there are who can talk freely of everything under the sun excapt the one real, true, genuine lovo of their lives. About that they are dumb, PHOTO =7 [ ArLisxx HAN CHUS \, ‘WHITE Qe SIANCHYS= GING ;"‘ FTROM except with thelr subjective selves, or with their other and better selves as they 8o fondly belfeve. o ‘We may speculate as to the cause, but the effects are within our grasp, and thoy lare these: out in the seven colors, but they are very 82y and are particularly barbarie; red green, purple and all sorts of heathenish <ombinations. TFhe colors are strapped with blue, gold, silver and red, while the silk itself is covered with flowers. Most of the designs are made In a circular plan and the flowers would make a garden blush for shame. B The regular Chinese trousers are worn when the costume is complete, but few girls wear them, as they are decidedly too much trouble. It is far easier to slip them on over skirts than to take the time and bother to make the manchu look entirely at home. Again, the trousers call for Chi- nese shoes, for nothing looks so absurd as tiny American shoes or slippers peep- ing out from under the Oriental dress. One that is stiff enough to stand alone Is made of a royal blue. There is no necessity for a lining and so for a wonder the one color is on both sides. The trimmings are light blue and pink brocaded In silver; just dainty, but not such a mixture as the majority of them. The silk is handsoms enough to dispense with much of the glit- ter. But because it sounds simple do not g7t the idea into your head that it Is cheaper than the others. Most people know the full value of sweet simplicity. The most gorgeous one of the entire six is made of a lavender. A heavy satin, brocaded with birds and trees, forms the body of the garment. The trimming, which fs about a foot wide ordinarily, doubles itself on the sides and makes a voke effect In the tack. The greatest part of the band is black satin, the only other color being a broad gold braid. The flowers and butterfiles are of the gold, but they are In raised work and so show off to the best advantage. The buttons are small gold cnes and the straps are of black; so the entire manchu is made of contrasting colors and the effect i3 strik- ingly swell. Some of them are in very light colors. A light blue satin makes a most bewitch- ing negligee, kut it takes awfully swell petticoats to go-with it. The border is of pink, embroidered with flowers in natural colors, then a tiny pisce of silver and a blue band covered with butterfiles in gold. A low voke effect in both back and front {s carried out with the numerous bands. Needless tc sav. the trimming is the most striking part of it. unless it is the peculiar shade of pink that makes a swell lining. When the skirt opens on either side and a susplcion of the pink shows at the bot- tom and at the sleeves the entire manchu presents a gay front. The most serviceable of all is a red and green changeable silk. Running ail a through the silk are palms and flowers. The decoration is a little out of the or- . dtnary. The silk s the dark part and the embroldery the light. The seven bands are there, and the colors are exactly as gay/ but the design is a little different, too. The dragon shines in all his horrible eplendor and is kep: within bounds by black satin straps. This one is very light tn weight, and there is not very much warmth in it, as it is unlined. but pride usually goes a long way toward keeping people warin when there is something beautiful to show. So If you have anywhere from $50 to $100 that you don't know how to spend, get & royal gown and tzke consolation in the fact that they are three becoming and imperial. Qo S ? |The Tempting of Count Divizza. nd simple. Very reluctantly she tele- Fhed her lover the condition of affairs. he message arrived not ten minutes be- | fore train time. No cne will ever know | the struggle cf those ten minutes. Bui the facty are that he quietly used his krowledge of the safe combination. uietly walked through the garden cloak over his arm. But short re was. this gentleman of many Ishments used a razor on his Leard, and the man who sat quietly in the car was a priest, who was reveren- tlally saying his beads, with his cloak thrown negligently around him. When the detectives came searching thrcugh the cars this holy man held his band in blessing above their heads and they passed on, not dreaming that the humble cloak covered the daring robber. In this way he reached Moctezuma In safety. He was now within sixty miles 1 that was dear to him on earth. t this point-Chlef of Police Ponce rez stepped on the train, as all the officers had done. He looked the | train over, received the priest’s blessing and was about to depart, when % oc- urred to him to question the young priest more closely to sce if he had observed a | Stranger get on or off the cars. Scurcely had the Chief put the question when it flashed as if by telepathy into his mind that the man he was searching for sat before him. Without a moment's hesita~ tion he accused the priest. N In a cool, low voice he acknowledged that he was the Count Divizza. Then as coolly he made the preposition that the chief take the $25.000 in money and allow him te continve on to El Paso, as his busi- | mess there meant more than life or death to nim. ‘He said that ir a few hours he would be on his way to San Francisco, where he would instantly take passage | for Italy: and as there was no ome pres- | ent and the train had been so thoroughly | searched there could be no woszble sus- picion eof the transaction. He made an | eloquent plea, but thé chief was unmoved. He did his duty according to the law, marching his prisoner off on the first train to the City of Mexico, where the Count pleaded guilty to all with which ne was | charged: told all these detalls with the ex- | cepticn of his love. So he was sentenced to ten years in the penitentiary. Having confided iIn his friend e begged that friend to instantly see his sweetheart, belizving that the truth was far better than cuspense. The peor little woman had read the new:paper accounts which paint- ed ner god In the blackest typa Instead of sinking under the calamity she made the most desperate efforts to get well and she partially succeeded. She at once seh abeout to plan for his release, very mucl as a mouse wight hope to saw the bars of a llon's cage. She had previously used her talents In the tield of journallsm and aiready a‘half-dozen or more of her sto- ries had been ascepted by Eastern papers. What was once a matter of pride to her now became an absolute necessity. Night and day she planned and wmte stories, sending them broadcast from her hot lit- tle rcom. must have money and she got 1t. His friend, who was a poor man, took it and used it judiclously, both to get him food that he could eat and to work up public sympathy for him. This has been accomplished, for an eminent lawyer, thinks the young Count has already fered enough, and supported by the H of Mexico, working hard and fast for a pardon, which it is firmly belleved will be granted in the neag future. It will be given on account of his broken health, which is really In a deplorable condition, That is the reason given. but the inter- + est that :;nor Blln:m has ::n n the The heraine of this story arrived ia Ki metter leads many to belleve that the vis. Paso on th‘nfimluoltamu;.ugh monmul;-r:m lady, with a griat- the jewels and wealth of Senor Slsnerna stricken faces done much to g‘l.::'pnred.ulm was too {ll to proceed uugm- m::l::.h:.o-g ~ 3R P g £ gt ol FRANCORUR money, for this was a love match yn: . JEANNE B v