The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 15, 1901, Page 11

em ever puor past THE SUNDAY CALL. 11 wise woman ver person co said that any dress well on small income if she only knew The woman who can man- be Iy put together & mere song will be more 1 be an the fir: if that ss run in a minor fluffy, large g. But they s to wear well that of dre ar the are 10 for instance. It ory tilted and lop- L d b g trailing feathers ar- zed « spicuous fashion. To S8y st racts attenticn tured is of brown velvet. the f is of velvet. The sands of chent'le » place by a w of tiny steel buckies : under brim s mass of shirreld ane corded plisse while s ling ¢ e to the hair < an interwoven knot of cream colored s e curious o ich feath- brim and add height to very back has a small satin t ‘falls over the that vet bow imagine a hat with any- Co ny one it it is a very keen affair. can succe hat entirely ruus lady, while a gl nly fails Lo at crea- Lut way ittle n T was ade for a few—a# few ple, and so are of the hats that will be winter It mears ike > Jate, and 2 case be ketbook. last, Conseque hly embroid- proper thing while dark fur and vel- nd winter coat. quite tight fitting lope away to a mod- crate at the bottom. Sometimes ews of velvet or fur are put on horizon- y down the entire length of the sleeve. « s kimono is double breasted 8¢ lly fi ed with a large co'= hen. again. that is a novelty, and re , very distinet objections 1o 1 trifle theatrical small fortune. In—it will not ed fear that. going serve One thing to be the he kimono is ng will have to s jan blouses of taffeta X > tucked or side plaited, t in. The full s cuft four inches or or into a narrow w mmed with three capes, preperly known as Carrick turn trimmed with stitched appliqued nental s r with Dainty are belts of irred black with the Russ s a simple heading ok on the left side worr often Each end b hd the belt b front. Both yle re new an-d ¥ ere from the long coats that ‘e been worn so commonly the past , by the wa the kings of t that all coats will be long. bu n are saying they the best dressed wo won't wear them. Who will win out? shops say emphatically “this is e a velvet winter,” and it will be a change from the chiffon and mou- seline that have been all the - and crepe de chine ell d give everybody a chance to ed age. Ca will s serge r well ¢ when all are racke T s just time ing their brains about their winter clothes. Summer garments all Jook like <t year's, and the dressy litile miss comfortable In fails to feel en them. § A swell way to make a crepe de chiné f skirt laid in to have th t of the such ti tucks, so closel 1estled to- gether that they give the effect of a band of chenille. The lower part trimmed with two slightly gradu uffes, cach bordered with hirr.d puff of taffeta. This is worn a little bolero-of black taffeta with nare row basque er behi over a front of guipure. To give a dainty finishing touch he bolero is laced across: the . black velvet, with hanging worn more than ever, ne find a daintiot is mad>! g gray dr with the sk kirt trimmed $ rufil narrow border of gray plaited Russian blouse is finished with | three little Carrick capes, one above the other. Tailor-made girls are as popu- lar and as much, in vogue as ever. There are times when nothing else is g propriate alf as stunnir The smartes To are made wth Tio 1 asque cf n n siightly. All ars tight fitting, and their long skirts are. natur- y. cut : separately, eIl yme women, larly the Fre learned how to looking Stiff and prim, s, even in a.very tailorish A big bunch of auties Olivzr. Photo by Alisky. cquemin roses in her buttonhol: and a black hat med with feathers or trin et edhe INY.w Gai nsborough pat— some equ iffy substitute make all the difference in the world. The mannish look vaushes into and or the trim, 03ty appearance is jere Californa Qs r Girls. You will have a delightfully easy time choosing evening froc! Ard what a bevy f colors and designs you will have to select from! As most of the designs are beautiful there is'no po: bility of making a mis One of the prettiest things is a yellow taffeta, with . panels embroidered in marguerites of black moussciine de su.é. Between these are wide plaitings of the mousseline. The panels are put on separately and are not.sewed to the skirt. Across the bottom of the skirt where the panels are are the same flowers put on irregularly, as though they had been dropped and had clung there. It - is a charming creation, but one that is very no- ticeable and very ex- pensive, hence not very popular. made Made by a Nativa Daughter, &crn by a Native Daughier and Crrcmenied &.th 1 Faaihers. The datntiest possible gown for evening | wear is made of rose erepe, trimmed with two Kinds of lace, one of which is blaci. The front is tucked in the closest kinds of tucks. On either side plaitings of rose mousseline de soie are let in, mipgling with black ard white The lower part of the skirt falls in two ruffles, each bordered with white lace over black. To finish the waist at the belt a sash of black mousseline with long ends is worn and a full tucked rufffe of the. mousseline bordered with a tiny shirred puft borders | the gimp. Tulle, mull and landsdown will be quife the proper caper. This Is not a stMf year, in fact everything is b the other plan. Everything tb particu- lariy fit and fine will be sof linging. And there is another radical change, tco. Instead of combining all sorts of bright lace. on exactly t is and colors in the body of a gown the effect wiil be carried out as far as possible in the one tone. The bright may he | suggested in vests, or ‘peF e in the collars, but .there will be “only a hint Velvet will lend the helping band that wil! be needed to fill in that gap. The shirt waist girl has not seen fit 1o | dispose of her beloved separate waist as yet. Every once in a while some authority startles those who love comfort by saying that th tight, boned wai: are to he the only proper things to appear in out side of one's home. However, popular usage has decided | otherwise and soft cashmeres and Scoteh and French flan | worn much as ever, If not mo: | st colors are bright and daik | nch blue, gray and a light green. One of their chief beauti can be made at home. Tk but a yoke effect back and front will keep | the waist from pulling and give it a neater appearance as well. Tucks ar pretty, but an awful nuisance for a be sinner to make, and so all amateurs will be delight to know that all Oriental br ., Persian siiks, s of ancy but- ngs wiil be every bit = smart as the myriads of baby tucks. | Then comes the trouble about the | throat. The troublesome little collars are what bother nine out of ten women. A gown may be ever so dainty and fre and a soiled or rumpled neck finish will ruln the entire looks more compietely and quicker than a hing As all neckwear E a.v ny store t afford to carry decent supply, und as ail are equally pe ishable, it is a splendid idea to manufa ture one's o Get a small piece of vel- vet or silk to match/ the waist and cov it with lac s @ all fortune carnl ck or a white.: 8o | much, so good. Then take a piece of | clepe or soft siik and encircle the meck. Wken it is caught together in fromt in ar way of the numerous ways that will ai- suggest themselves, nothing could be el or iess expensive. If tke gown berate, put an open pattern of dace the ends, or make it of panne veiv and” have the ‘ends friled with lac heally the most serviceable cne of ali mage of black velvet. And when it is | heud In place by a bright brooch the somi- ber look is taken away. 4s tue Jfrustic eftect of this season's BOWNs whil depend in a great measure upon the fanciful stock, the odd girdies and the borate sieev everybody cught to give them the lion's share of tiuLght and ume. It 1s dumicuit to tell whether the caj eflect ‘or the jacket idea will carry to y. Both aie mighty nobby. Girdl are made of silk and velvet, panne and lace, satin and fur and nearly everything | eise unaer the sun. Almost any combin: seems to be thé proper thing. pie who can afford them, the simpl tnings are in vogue. Every one knows about ‘“the simple white frock.” But | sweet simplicity as a rule takes a bag well fllled with shekels to satisfactori ¥ pay the bill, and that is why the major- ity of us wear the frilllest kind of fu Leiows to cover up the-possible defects. And there is one other thing that women particulariy delight in, and that is the | eibow sieeve: They were worn all sura- mer and at all_places, and they bid fair to be every bit as well liked during the winter months | | Mansion House g | King Edward in appearance ti | has also been known as Mr. Moulton, | has written in the Duche: | when I can | Prince of Wales | very seriously and lost more money than | abundantly | wills as the reciplent of the family dog i specimen of its kind bel | is the state carrjage ! Young Dymoke possesses King Rdward VIV as 2 Man and a3 a Ruler. EDWARD VII of England ING V reigns over about 400,000,000 peopic [\7 or a quarter of mankind. As Prince of Wales his income was about $500,000; as King he gets about $5000 a day. ~ The Kinx, the Lord Mayor and the Con- stable of the Tower are the only persons f the Tower of to the d by the nt cus- who know the password fordon. Thi sword is King, and is a survival of tom. Four men in standing ip auci London, al ciety, so clos en a source of embarrassment to them Edward's usual incognito when travei- ing abroad has been Baron Renfew. He and which the Prince and Prin of Wales visited soon after their marriage, the pair went about through the bazaars as plain Mr. and Mrs. W Hams. How long will the King live? an old gypsy saying that Wales would die by as soon as “a great honor was cc 1pan hlim.™ The predictions of this gypsy are sald to in Constantinople There is the Prince of viole erre: ! have come true in regard to other mem- bers of Eurepean royal milies. The King has never shown the slightest fear of assassinatio The rance come panies are rapidly approaching the limit of the risk they will accept on King Ed- ward's life. His expectation, rding to insurance tables. is 14.1 yes Allowance for moral hazard or chance of assas- sination ices th ten ye As a public speaker the K has shown mastery of such intricate and diverse sub- | jects as art, literature, dramatic history, military matters, engineering, shipping. civic institutions, the study of the Bibie and mission wor ory of Egype, the Irish ques anagement of lifebo mbulance nd tural im- prov ts, liv the re- claiming of barren land, the management of hospitals, the housing of the poor, the Darwinian theory, railw; and their management and musical training. Between January 1 and September 1 of last year Edward went to forty-three pub- lic dinners and banquets, to twenty-five garden parties and concerts, thirty times to the opera and theater, to twenty-eight race meetings; eleven times he was.in at- tendance at the H of Lords, and he tulfilled forty-five officlal and charitable engagements. In his own set his favorite topic of con~ versation b been clothes. The King is an expert shoemaker. a handicraft he chose to learn when a boy, being obliged by his royal parents to learn some trade. He has worn shoes of his own malke. One of the happlest moments of the King’s life was when he won the Derby with Persimmon in 18%. Shooting, the King places above all other entertaln- ments that can be offered him, and his principal visits have always been paid in the shooting seas chting he un- derstands tho hly. The & is an inveterate smoker. Under “Likes and Dislikes,” the King of Fife's al- bum over his signature: “I am the hap- piest when I have no public engagement to fulfill, when I can smoke a really good cigar and read a good novel on the quiet; like plain Mr. Jones, go to a race meeting without being chronicled n the paper the next morning that the has taken to gambling he can ever afford to pay: when I can spend a quiet evening with the Princess and my family. I am unhappiest when I have a raging toothache and have to at- end some function where I must smile as pleasantly as though I never had a pain in my life.” Edward VII is rather a light eater, ex- cept at dinner, and has never been a great wine drinke In the matter of gifts the King has been favored. They vary in size from a cat to a hotel. Dogs, cats and other quadrupeds galore have been given or left to the King by request. His name has been mentioned in not far from a hundred 2nd on more than one occasion an annuit has been left by a testator in order tl the maintenance of the animal should be to the royal master. One ho of Edward's collecting crystals. He also knows all about cerem- ics and bronzes. no expens: One of the King's treasures a solid gold dinner set, the most magnificent the world. It is valued at $4.000,000 and is t at Windsor Castle. Another uniue iging to Edward In addition to being the most ornate vehicle in existence it is sald to be ome of the most uncomfortable. Queen Victoria never :sed it when she could avoid doing so, as it alw: e her a he. King Edward’s champion, the Champion of England, is a young Lincolnshi whi tarmer named Dymoke. He is of a dious and retiring disposition, little give to the gayeties of the great world. tis said he is somewhat exercised over the necessity of fulfilling duties of his | office. This is to ride ¢ where the banquet is he ration, clad in stecl armor, and chall all comters to deny the title of the sovereign. Me then pledges the King the golden goblet filled with wine, finaliy backing his horse from the royal presencs this honor by tue of holding the manor of Scrivelsby, | which his ancestors have held since the time of the Norman Kings. The Dymokes | got the manor by marriage more than 300 years ago, and since then have actea as Champion at each coronation.—New York Sun. . Fourth tn the Series of W hist HArticles a of whist, ual order of 1 sh be- rd and a hand or nd play subject.) is a qles- ner’s writers on the game differ tion many upon. Some say you should’ hoid five tru at least; others four, with two rs. The mere fact of holding four good trumps or even, five or six is not a good reason for the “call” The usual object of leading out the trumps Is for the purpese of bringing in a long suit or for the protection of high cards in the d ferent If you have not this objec in view you should not call, even though have a strong trump suit. Some- times the fall of the cards or partner’s lead will show you that he is strong in the suits or a suit and it would then be neces- ry to call for or lead trumps right awzy. k ts. you Hamiiton says: “Fine players rarely make, use of this signal in its simpiest form. Players with good whist percep- tion will generally see the necessity for a ir lead without waliting for this com- mon device of the novice.” is another and more effective signal for trumps made by the play of one That is by a single discard of a card righer than (he seven of a suit that has not been played. Thus A and 3 are partners. A 1 the king of hearts and B plays the five of hearts. On the second lead, A plays the ace of hearts and if B, who is now void of hearts, plays the nine of diamonds he has issued a call for trumps. . Had he discarded a deuce or trey he would be inviting a force and there- fore publishing weakness in the trump sult. The advantage of this signal over the other lies in the fact that if your partuer is in the lead at the time, the “call” is answered before the opponents have taken y advantage of the information in any way. There are other ways of making the trump signal—by refusing to trump a sure winning card or refusing to take a force from partner; both are positive calls for trumps. You should be careful about calling while the opponents are in the lead, for when you declare strength in trumps against them they may play for a ruff, or cross-ruff. You should refuse to answer the call if your right-hand opponent completes a call at the same time as your partner, for you would be leading through your part- ner’s hand up to declared strength. Should your left-hand opponent, however, and your partner call at the same time you should lead your best trump through him, an; By Mrs. Hdolph ffess of the Jan Francisco &hist Club. 2 i glving partner a safe finesse against the declared weak hand. partner has signaled or led it you hold four or more you should echo by making trumps yourself if possible. Some players echo three trumps. It should be understood between partners whether they echo three or four trumps or more to, prevent your®partner from drawing the last trump from you, think- ing it against him. Good players never fail to use this conventionality of the game. You can echo in the manner you take a force. Thus, A has signaled for trumps and B is forced. He holds the ten, seven, four and two of trumps.. He trumps with the four and plays out the two, and he has echoed four trumps. Had B held only the ten, seven and four, he would trump with the four and play out the ten, showing one more or no more. Again, A has called and B is forced. the signal for Holding ace, ten, four and two of trumps, he trumps with the four and leads the ace. The two not falling to the first round partner must give it to him, with one trump more. Had he trumped with the two and led the ace partmer could give him but one more trump. The play of second hand has been changed somewrat by Ameri an leads, the play of fourth best cards and leads from high card combinations. Second hand can sometimes count the cards sc as to know the exact combinations. They are led from when he has certain cards in his . own band of the same suit. There is a rule, taken from *“Foster's Manual,” called “Foster's rule of eleven,” applica- ble when a fourth best card is led. It is to deduct from eleven the number of spots on the card led, and the remainder is the number of cards that are against the leader higher than the one led. If the eight 18 led there are three cards higher than the eight against the leader, second hand holding all three of those cards must cover the eight léd. With three cards (of a suit led) in se- quence you should usually play the lower of the sequence. If you hold the card next higher and the card just below in rank to the card led you should always cover, as you have what is termed a fourchette. To a conventional lead of a high card you cannot hold a fourchette, and bolding one dn Jbow to y)/ay Glis “Best of U Sames” proves to you that the lead is forced or irregular; a lead which may be mace toward the end of the hand frequently. When you can take a trick and still hold command of the suit, holding ace and king,” you should play king second hand in plain suits. If you should hold a double tenace, like the ace, queen, 19, you should usually play the 10 to a low card led. ‘When an honor is led do not cover with another honor unless it is the ace. You should usually cover an honor with the ace if you held it. ‘When you have 5 or 6 in suit and the ace unless very strong in trumps ycu should play the ace at second hand. ‘When you hold a singly guarded court card-play low, unless the card led is higher than the 6. Holding three cards, like the 9, 7, 2, o the 8 led, play the 9; or the king, 9, 2, "o the § led, play the 9. It may save a higa card for partmer. In trumps, with the king singly guard- ed, play the king at second hand unless trumps are led by right hand opponent in answer to a call from the left hand opponent. Next week the lesson will be upon third and fourth hand play and the subecho. Victory belongs to the most persever- ing.—Napoleon. Self-respect is the corner stone of all virtues.—John Herschel. Character is the diamond that scratches every other stone.—Bartol. Pile luxury as high as you will, health is better.—Julia Ward Howe. Men are measured by what they de, not by what they possess.—Voltaire. Punctuality, honesty-and brevity are the watchwords of life.—C. W. Field. Brevity Is the best recommendation of speech, whether in a senator or in an orator.—Cicero. To be thrown upon one’s Own resources is to be cast into the very lap of for- tune.—Franklin.