The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 9, 1901, Page 3

| i SHEER. NAIN Book wiTH Er>ROIDERED RUFFLE FLOUNCING, han one pt more womar of be: one more Aream silk or lace, to her-a of lace and live up fancy. What woman is perfectly fled to walk, dance and fly about gener 1y witho these adorable bits of nzeri A spy glass would be in order to find even one To hold a skirt it in clinging fo though it were art that is being s to up gracefull s, to make part of oneself, udied just at pre To let a petticoat peep beneat! wkirt the ou to display a cloud of tumbling r fles, is an accomplishment that few women have down to a fine point out of ten get 2 firm grasp on their pet- ticoats. and evervbody knows that a: underskirt was never intended to nold vn. simple, and it looks simpie, but of patient labor to careless way of holding the rt up just the right height. f shopkeepers tell us ats of silk are losing their popui . but at the same time thetr windown m and they ara aec numbers on the streets. Howeves, nds of sheer na lawns, fresh dimities and silks: in fact, there is a large v material that i3 n vogue for sk No other the tive outlay skirts are of a delicate #int and elaborately Deep sometimes widening toward the e headed with double ruchings cr of Jace and ribbon; arouni “he bat. re rows and rows of narrow ruffies, in turn are edged with bon or a very small Bands of ribbon covered with at regular intervals from heading of the wide flounce and end points just above the small rufiles around the bottom. The daintiest insertion used 2nd a Jarge bow of wash riboon makes a pretty finish, Another pretty skirt that gempts gitls to raise their skirts just a ftrifig hicher trimmed. depend n than is really necessary fs made of a theer lawn. The main rufMs a about thirty inches wide and is tucked almost €0lid. The tucks commence with one and run up to seven with a small spacp inter- vening. Instead of lace there ix a most e'aborate embroidery, but it di¥srs from the ordinary in that it can't be bought mnd sewed on the ruffle. The entire plece comes together and is known as “lawn or nainsook ruffle flouncing.” Of course, accordion pleated flounces ara always popular, and edged with iace ani ribbon the billowy effect so desired may be obtained. By the way, don’t forget that all skirts are fitted around che hips and gradually widen about the uotinm, the iden being to give the slender eficct about the hips and the broader one at the feet, ¥or that idea we may thauk the divine Barah. 4 THE SUNDAY CALL. ) A pretty rad nowadays is to have the petticoat match the gqQwn exactly, but unless the colors are precisely the same, ihe effect is entirely lost, and both gown and petticoat look as though they tried to be chic and missed the mark. Silk ekirts hardly ever harmonize with more than one frock. and so white is generally preferreq when the designs and trim- mings are swagger. Don’t labor under the impression that they are cheaper than silk ones, very & #” PLTTICQATS TROM ), DAVIS, SCRONWASSER BROCADE WITH TRIHHINGS or BLACK, & Co" o - = 1 Photos by Fowzer. \ - - £ much be-trimmed silk ones, in fact. Many of the newest ones are Paris marked and cost anvwhere from %2 to 350, and the laundry bills are’heavens knows what. So you see they’re not to be thought of when economy is an object. It isn't a case of make at home when the ‘“ruffle simply and flouncing” is used, because it can't bé bought about here at all, the houses that carry them smilingly “They are Parisian. don’t you know Some of the newest patterns in silk an embroidered taffetas and have double flounces edged with applique done in white and gold. Rather simple but ef- fective. Cne of blue silk has a 2-inch flounce trimmed with black lace, insertion and applique. It i& absolutely stunning, the only pity is that more of it does not show. The flounce is cut In a zgzag fashion which allows the lace to touch the lowest underneath ruffle at regular intervals. The insertion is, of course, put on in the same way. A flock of black birds flies about the skirt, every one be- ing just where the dip occurs. Another- swell cet petticoat is made sf black and white striped silk. Two of the ruffes are accordion and are each edged with a tiny black taffeta ruchs. To give it a peculiar effect, a bias p'cce of is put between the two accordions a® a plece of broad lace insertion holds them in place. That makes the folds fall here and there in any old kind of way and gives a great swish that particularly pleases most women. The very top is finished off with another small ruche and that one is outlined witk a tiny white one. Altogether the effect is swell and looks particularly well with a black tai- lor suit. For people who like queer, (reakish things there are shaded green oncs. For instance, four tucks and a piece of light tan embroldersd in green, four more tucks in a darker shade, the insertion belrg the same as above. The colors deepen in that fashion until a good deep flounce is made and the last and deepest color is the final rufle. The under rufile is a very dark shade and the effect is most peculior to say the least. Anybody would turn around and stare, for there has rever been so many colors used be- fore on a skirt that Isn't supposed to show 0 very mu Tt is something like Joseph's coat of many colors. Elderly people v “petkicoats <yery bit as well as do gay’ and giddy 1ice | matinee girls. Black Is, of course, a staple color, and'some of the very swellest things that are turned out of our shops are black taffeta trimmed with any quantity of lace and insertion. They come 'way up on the list of favorites, as they can be worn with ‘most anything and not look as though the wardrobe was entirely destitute, Again, they do not show the dust and soil if they are properly brushed before hang- ing away. Arothker sedate skirt is made of purple, or even of violet, and what shade in the long line of colors is any prettier or daintier than either one of them. For people who don’t care a snap of their fin- gers for rustle, bul who want durabflity. the brocade is used, and when it comes to looks it does not take a step behind the fickle taffeta, elther. Satin pleats every bit as well as a thin- ner material, but as a rule only the bot- tem ruffle is accordioned and then fin- CALIFORNIA THEATRE JULIA DEAN ished off with a full ruche. Black lace In- sertion /is stitched on full pleces of the brocade and a quilling of ribbon to match takes off the rough eages. As many rows of Insertion as are wanted may be set in. Whenever insertion is used there must be two ruffles—one for show and one for service—otherwise there would be a trans- parent effect that might prove annoying. To wear with shirt-waists and a short skirt there is nothing so durable or so long run to select a pretty skirt and carry it home under your arm. Then you have what you wanted, and otherwise you may simply know what you want and have something that you wish you could get rid of. Short skirts made of fine flannel and crepe are coming nic style again. They fit snugly about the hips and are cut elr- cular, just as the longer ones are, and show just as mu-h lace and ribbon- TAN AND GREZN /NSER- TIoN cool as a fine madras or a mercerized linen in some fresh, delicate color. Em- broldered beadings or bands of wash lace| may be set on above the hem on the cir-| cular flounce, or may be arranged in some fancy way on or atove ruffles. Again, there is no real nececsity for lace or in- sertion of any kind. Three ruffles cut on the bias make a pretty finish; or, again, an accordion of the same material does very ‘well and alwuys looks.neat. The fresh appearance of these petticoats s their greatest recommendation. People who have more time on their hands than they know what to do with| sometimes buttonhole a fancy edge In silk ' or linen to match cho shade of the skirt,; Made of light pink, iavendeér or blue, they | are quite the smartest thing te put en before donning a white plque dress skirt, However, n home-mude garment never has quite the appearance of one beught | all ready made, and It I8 cheaper in the A Quzer Wax Crep HE white wax crop exported from China is made bty the curious methed H of using minute insects in its produc- ticn. These Insects are found in brown, pea-shaped excrescences or galls attached to an evergreen tree called the 5 ect tree. The galls are gathered in May and carried in headlong flight to the market towns by bearers. whe travel at night. £o that the heat may not force the inses to emerge during the journey. i 1: then placed in a “wax tree.” hich is a stump varving from three to twelve feet in height, with numerous branches rising from the top, simflar to the pollard willow. The wax insects are made into small packets of twenty or thirty galls, which are inclosed in a leaf of the wood ofl tree, fastened together with rice straw. These packets are suspended close to the branches, under which they hang. On emerging from the galls the insects creep rapldly up the branches, to which they at- tach themselves, and begin forming & ceating of wax that in about three months attains a thickness of almost a quarter of an inch. The branches are then cut off, an® after removing as much of the wax as possible by hand they are put in a kettle of hot water, when the remaining wax floats on the surface, and the insects finish thelr term of usefulness by going to the bottom. Fortlne. O you see that woman in black sit- ting there? said a raflroad detec- gift of being able to'ecry naturally and at will. “If she sees a group of well-dressed sit or stand very nezr them and burst out crying. Of course, her misery will attract attention and some man will surely come money to buy a ticket to get to her dying daughter in the next town. It is a com- mon thing for men tc give her a few dol- Her Tears Rre Her tive. *““Well, sle possesses the rare men In a station waiting for a train she'll to her relief. The s is that she has no lars promptly and never ask any ques- tions. She has a varfety of stories to tell. T think she is the most successful beggar I know. “Crying at will is something I don't understand. I have seen counterfeit cries galore on the stage, but this woman's ery is much nearer the real thing. No, she does not hold a handkerchief to her eyes at all. She just kecps her face well up and sobs freely, hor tears rolling down her cheeks that all may see them. She can cry anywhere. “I've seen that woman stop on the side- walk near where thiee men were standing and scb as If her heart would break. When one of the men asked her what the matter was she replied she lived twenty miles a y and had lost her purse. The three men gave her a dollar and a half in a Jiffy and asked no questions. How often in a day she does a turn like that I don’t know. “She does her tur> so artistically that We hate to turn the fraud down. One time I did interfere in the front of a ho- tel, but the five men she had cried to simply gave me a sicny stare and waved me off as they handed her a few small bills. They wouldn’t hear my story, and swallowed her tears of woe as a trout jumps at a fly. T gyess those men would rather feel they’d helped a poor woman than believe there was such a'fraud. That's why I let her go. “No, T am sure she uses no onions, or other pungent odors to cause her tears. Her tear glands are ever ready on tap and never appear to be empty. Some days ago I asked a doctor about it and he couldn’t explain it more than to say that practice makes perf-ct. and t the tear glands could be developed the same as any other portion of the numan body. T have promised to show kim the woman some time."” T DO SENORE By During the last twenty years the num- ber of public libraries in the United States has more than doubled. There are now almost If not quite 3000, and they possess about 40,000,000 volumes. \