The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 28, 1901, Page 10

10 THE SUNDAY CALL. are going to do » make swell girls of y t is up to you to do the You must know how to wear the things. It is too late in the each that feathers don’t make Everybody knows that. The it doesn’t always do away with s the pictures will help. That is e here for. Study the lines and remember that although igure by nature it a cent to her if she f handling it and so value out of every good You can do as a good t of the gown. s eye and then take a quick, e main out- Sleeved mod- very full in to pouch; hips, retreat- ring forwardat the » skirt a mass of g out behind (o ance to g denc he gown has to be cut is the thing lies and hold it up. I nt and mull it wn W 1 p the gown. Over straight-front corset it will stay in this wadays to hold up e how t you will he best s gives no show linc summer es about sk ch 1 avalanche of toward one side te House and every mmed in black. That is he season. Whether white, atever the dainty tint be—the I ack is its con- of black lace are scen, ck embroidery, knots and ack ribbon. It is to a pale salt is to the bread we eat. It gowns are of white organ- k. One has very ow sloping down- is of ck two the garniture They down strips on the ng in all directions from the he run plain white lace ma- about up and yok ame the skirt le the skirt h 1 the front. Black satin t and ties in front and the same ribbon ker stock with a fat s a del ow elow ek of neck once s the most becomin lly to a slender they may be fas- ront, as you like. nt is that they dip Sow r s itary figure, T ‘ gown has the apart i, being lighter the more perishable. The viceable ac cobwebs, those ou can't blame any girl for if she has the price of the cob- Three flounces of dainty black embroid- ered lace give fullness to the bottom of the t. The skirt overlaps them. in one to the back and one to Where it meets the lace nar- velvet ribbon forms the band, this is another still narrower. ds of ribbon finish cuffs and sk They are wide and, bordered lace, they lie over the shoulders n & dainty fluff. They meet at the bust &nd there a great knot of turquoise vel- t ribt lds them. Its long ends fall to tk Lace falls over the hands; ce-covered stock fits tight to the throat. Fancy for this gown a white chiffon hat trimmed in French forget-me- nots and black velvet—wouldn't it be per- fect? A much ruffied organdie, which comes r the palest shade of blue that tch a robin’s egg or in a deli- hy pink, is adorned with bands of black and white embroidery. The work is done directly on the fabric, but has the effect of an applique because of the elaborate way in which the white and black stitches are interwoven. The work borders the fitted part of tha skirt ond / £ ANDW \ OUTEIT R WY ik passes about the sleeves between shoulder and elbow. The yoke—there are so many yokes this year—is altogether composed of narrow bands of lace inserting put together with black velvet baby ribbon. The stock is the same. This ribbon heads the nar- row valenciennes lace that edges the epaulettes and the six ruffies of the skirt. It also makes big knots on the front of the bodice. A wider ribbon forms the belt. The mass of ruffies in this pattern goes a long way toward giving the poster ef- fect that every girl seeks. Ruffles are a fearful amount of labor for somebody, therefore they come at a high price, but NEW LACE TRIMMING/ ,'\\,"\“\{‘\v‘\ NN ), ) N J”«dnA the result achieved pays, The tinted organdies are made over a plain petticoat of the same to prevent the color from paling. The blue in the ple- ture is so thin, that, laid directly over white, it would turn a sickly skim-milk shade. A cream-tinted organdie is the most dashing and daring of all because of its showy trimming of broad and heavy black lace bands. They travel down the skirt from waist to flounce; they strap the yoke, they parade up and down the sleeves. They border the bertha and the skirt flounce and the sleeve ruffles. These ruffles, by the way, start in very little below the elbow. The symptoms of short sleeves are In the air, such sleeves ag made our grandmothers the charmers that they were and make doctors the croakers that they are. The sleeve ruffles are very full, falling back delightfully from a plump white arm. Sometimes one rufe fle is worn within another. The revival of the bertha is noticeable in this model. It is out of date and yet hardly old enough for a revival. Epaue lettes, of the same school, are seen occas sionally. This gown is tucked without limit— tucked everywhere between the lace bands. A pretty detail of it is the dust ruffle, edged with two strips of narrow lace. -+ WHAT HAS BECOME OF THE QUAINT LITTLE COUNTERFEIT MONEY “PROFESSOR?” WONDER what has become of the quaint little counterfeit money “pro- fessor” who used to pay us periodical visits twenty years ago,” sald a New I Orleans banker, chatting about old times in his bank office. “I well remember my first encounter with him. It was toward the close of the day and I was at my desk nere v, when he walked in briskly, pulled up a chair and sat down at my elbow. Before I could recover from my surprise at his cheek he whipped out ormous wallet and spread a hun- @red-dollar bill in front of me on the desk. ‘Is that genuine or counterfeit?’ he asked sharply. All this was without the slightest introduction or preface, and I had no idea what kind of a lunatic I might have cn my hands, but I plumed myself on belng an expert judge of money and his question piqued my professional goride. I examined the bill and pro- nounced it genuine. ‘Bah!’ he said, scorn- fully, ‘it's a counterfeit, and not a very good counterfeit at that.- ‘T'll change it at the teller's window,” said I, getting mad. ‘No, you won't, he replied; ‘look here, and here,’ and he pointed out plain defects in the engraving that I had some- how overlooked. I was considerably mor- tified, of course, and when he clapped an- other bill down on the desk I took more pains in scrutinizing it. However, he fooled me again, and in flve minutes, to make my story short, he had me so con- fused and bewildered and mistrustful of myself that I couldn’t have distinguished a national bank note from a green cigar stamp. “Then it suddenly occurred to me to ask him who the dickens he was, and he introduced himself as Professor the counterfeit money expert, saying he had permission from the Treasury De- partment to travel over the country, giv- ing lessons in the art of detecting bad bills. ‘Now, you're a pretty man to be at the head of a bank! he went on. ‘Any smooth “shover” could unload a bale of the ‘“‘queer” on you and you'd never find it out. You owe it to your depositors to take a lesson immediately.’ Ordinarily such a remark would have ‘made me furi- ous,” the banker continued smilingly, “but the little man must have had me hypnotized, for I not only told him to go ahead but engaged him to give his series of lessons to everybody in the bank. It took him about a week to put the whols crowd through the course, and by the time he finished polishing us off we were the most accomplished lot of amateur counterfeit sharps in the South. We were stuffed to the muzzle with technical in- formation, and for the next two or three months the bank was in one long, con- tinual state of uproar. The tellers found counterfeits every tcn minutes of the day, or at least they thought they did, and all hands would rush to the front with expert opinions, and the debate would rage until another crooked bill turned up. Mean- While business would come to a standstill and incidentally several heavy depositors became insulted at having their money questioned and withdrew their accounts. At last it dawned on me that there was such a thing as being entirely too blamed expert, and I notified the force that I'd fire the next man I heard mention coun- terfeits. Then I told the teller to look pleasant and accept any old thing that resembled money, and from that time on peace reigned. About a year later the professor dropped in again and suggested @ post-graduate course. I ran him out of the house.”—New Orleans Times-Demo- crat. Poses by Miss Florence Stone of the Grand Opera-House. Gowns from the ‘White House. Photos by Alisky. Pointed straps on in rising sun designs is the most stun- ning novelty of all. The straps run from the top of ‘the skirt ruffle up toward the the back. Again, they rum down the a krot on front and similar knots trim the skirt from the belt, shortening by sradua- tlon toward the back. You can see by the photograph what the effect of these graduated lengths is: They give an ap- pearance of dipping toward the front. So with the straps on the bodice, they follow the same outline. Pleats stitched In black silk extend up and down the skirt and bodice between the lace bands. The gown is really made in two pleces, but it might be all one, judging by the way the lower part fol- lows the design of the upper. Ruffles of fine black lace turn back from a vest of tucked organdie. Two deep lace-edged ruffles finish the sleeves at the elbow and fall half way to the hand. The collar has a turn-over ruffle which calls for a slender throat to risk ruffie borders the it. Only one narrow skirt. A black velvet belt fastens with B sleeves. A most demure little gown, ome that suggests afternoon tea on a prim and summery English lawn, is made of tucked white organdie. Its only trimming is simple bands of embroidery, interlaced with black velvet baby ribbon. These trim the skirt vertically. they make a pointed yoke, they border the sleeves. One of the bands forms the belt, another the stock and still another covers the pleat of the wal which is hardly more than a shirt waist. The beauty of the costume lies In its exquisite material and its smartness of outline. Three tucked and lace-edged ruffles finish the skirt. The same ruffling ap- pears on the sleeves. Knots of the rte- bon. catch the gown in half a dozen places. The black and white cape and parasol shown in one picture are Paris importa tions. They are safe invest s for this season, for they are in the popular com- bination. Fifteen Thousand Pad for a CCORDING to an article on costly A introductions which appears in a London weekly £3000 is the rec- ord sum paid for the privilege of shaking somebody's hand. This was the price paid on one oce shake with the late Colonel North, that bluff old flnancier was so enraged of black lace stitched wher he heard of the transaction that he cut off his friendship with the introducer then and there and paid the money back to the/man who had sought the introduc- knees, lengthening by graduation toward | tion—paid it out of his own pocket. Dolfars That \/Jag Handshake. But if all the tales one hears In the city are true and Colonel North had under- taken to reimburse all the sums which had been paid to obtain his handshake he would not have died so rich as he did. Twenty, thirty and fifty pounds weresums frequently pald for introduction to the Nitrate King by persons who expected him to help them to make their fortunes. Needless to say, the money was practical- ly thrown away in most cases. When E. T. Hooley was In the zenith of his meteoric success there was hardly a -pushing man of invention or business who did not seek the famous financier and the consequence was Mr. Hooley had to draw a cordon around himself to keep wildcat schemers away or he would have never had time to do business. Mr. Hooley’s Intimate friends might have amassed fortunes in fees for intro- ductions, for all sorts of sums were of- fered for such services. In one case £2000 was offered and declined, while a fee of £400 was paid for a handshake with Mr. Hooley by a Midland County merchant who wanted his business floated only a week or two before his crash came. Of course, Mr. Hooley was no party to these bribes, of which he may be totally ignorant to this day. If half the bribes that were offered for introduction to the meteoric financier were accepted Mr. Hooley's friends made more out of him than he made out of himself. It has been hinted that another famous financler, who was madly sought after by hundreds of people who wanted him to finance their schemes, employed a friend to accept all bribes offered in this manner and that the two shared the amounts, which were not infrequently very consid- erable. The truth is the financier discovered that a certain friend was making a very hand- some thing by introducing to him people with schemes threatened the friend with exposure un- less the friend supplied him with a com- plete list of the names of persons from whom he had accepted bribes for intro- duetions, and fully repaid all such sums. The friend laughed at the threat, refused to comply with either of the demands and declared that he would give out that the amounts had all been shared with the financier himself if the latter mentioned the matter to any one. The financier dared not Imperil his repu- tation by being slandered in this way and was therefore compelled to keep silent. But after his death, when it becgme known that his friend had introduced per- sons to him at so much a time, the in- troducer declared that it had always been done with the knowledge of the financier, who had had half of all the sums obtalned in this way. Hence the rumor, which Is absolutely without foundation. The Introducer admitted that he had made £8000 by Introducing people to the financler, which shows the bald improba- bllity of his assertion that he only toolk half the proffered bribes, since it was hardly likely that £16,000 was torthcoming for mere introductions to the financler. A milllonaire money-lender once offered one of the aristocratic clients the return of all the latte promissory notes, amounting to nearly £4000, if he would introduce him soclally to three titled gen- tlemen, and he faithfully redeemed his promise. On another occasion the same millionalre offered to knock £300 off a debt owed him by a client on the latter's giving a dinner to some of the smarter of his friends and inviting the moneyslender. The money-lender was so pleased with the success of the dinner that he increased the deduction o £400.—New York Sun. Memory of the Man That Introduced Nicotine To Be Honored. HREE HUNDRED AND FIFTY vears ago. according to the allega- tions, Jean Nicot Introduced tobacco into Europe. It was from his name that the word “nicotine” was dertved. The French Government has just made an ap- propriation for the erection of a bronze statue to Nicot. It Is to be set up in front of the main Government tobacco factory in Paris. This French claim to the Intro- duction of tobacco into Europe s some- what at variance with the general suppo- sition that Sir Walter Raleigh first car- ried the fragrant weed across the water to the old country. Raleigh smoked his Virginia tobacco In the presence of Queen Elizabeth in or about the year I15%. Thirty-four years earlier, however, Jean Nicot, while French Embassador to Por- tugal. purchased some tobaceo seeds that had been brought over from Florida and sent some of them to France. A year la- tor he presented some of the plants to Catherine de Medicl, and together they srioked the drfed leaves in pipes. It is interesting in this connection to re- enll that when tobageo smoking was firs- introduced into Eurobe, first by Nicot and later by Raleigh, it was extremely un- popular. It was called “the stinking habit,” and at least two Popes, Urban VIII and Innocent XI, issued decreec against it. A Sultan of Turkey—in which country smoking is now almost univer- sal—made it 2 crime punishable by the of- fenders having their pipes thrust through their noses. In Russia the noses of the smokers were cut off. King James I of England characterized smoking as ‘“a custom loathsome to the éye, hateful to the nose, harmful to the brain, dangerous to the lungs, and In the black, stinking fume thereof nearest resembling the hor- rible Stygian smoke of the pit that is bottomless.”—Savannah News,