The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 18, 1900, Page 5

THE SUNDAY CALL. latest Millinery @reation--The Spring Walking Hat. e ngle s are to Do rg! be wor! made of very expensive f the imitation. and and e of th but someth: 1 eftec nd mak materials, are s thera 1t shade accordeon pretty on w mat wear chal- and musl B ! most popular. The challies ar to o= worn o be b at vari desig in light col- and in d light colc being like th shioned whil one patterns, ark figure or flow- er. Challie is 3 pleasant ma terial to wear. It is eool the me I a than or weight a silk cambric. It len: itsel: esp e cially well ar sort of drap- ing and i for th and colorings. 1 the thin mate €, some charming silks and even velvets that make up well into these iittle gowns.— Harper's Bazar. . Rreezl Gossip About New Fashions d Frills of Feminini an rFI1is © eminmny Y- varfety of coloring that was ever know and looks equally well, no matter w Most ; : os¢ the light colors are better than the dark. 5 Popllar o e S Whe be and is made up without any trimming gre: ers, for challi is a very good materjal for summer wear, and many new Y N° “ fashions t ce been revived in what ‘ ‘ QY -y were known as the Dolly Varden patterns o the plain and the striped ettects are more and satins in many different designs The few separate waists which are be- in renaissance lace, in Irish point, and ing made for spring wear are of light silks in guipure, some of which have a trim- ! he into the fabric. This is to be had in every ' | hat shade is osen, excepting perhaps tha It blends itself well to the trimming of Mcd s whatever excepting itself. Then there are P s he chais. that later on will be seen in D e Q iy s designs are to be seen in it. The old are good in coloring and will be much fashionable. There are also the Liberty Vogug. Wear. and muslins or other thin materials, and it ming of narrow black veivet ribbon run will not be considered the swell thing to =t through th- 1. Others. agaw. are fas- wear them In the street. They whi b: _The new spring gowns, made all of one tened in front with'a large bow of chiffon. used only for evening and house wear, material and not with sepas Jt Is surprising how silk waist that rate waists as hereto- fore, will be muchl worn. - has lost its first freshness is abso. lutely transformed by one of thess lace boleros, or with the chiffon and will be elaborately trimmed with 2l sorts of rutfles and puffings and laces anl ribbons. " The smartest shirt waist will be made _The separate bow, or with a lace bow and tucked back and front from the neck waists Will long ends. It would never ba down, and the tucks will be rather wide Will be of advisable to rccommend any 2 otherw The yoked shirt waists 1ight fashion that would be an untidy one, such as cover- ing up marks of wear or soll by trimming, but often 1 ve gone out of fashion, and the great . tendency is to make the waist line as tong s possible in front. Some of the most wagger’ summer and spring suits waist has lost its freshness will be made of white pique and duck without being soiled, and in with hair-lined stripes of blueg that r-slse !: ;sl.\ good plan Jink. black, vellow, etc. Tucked to retrim it; but it never !'hfn.a silk shirt waists of all pa to remake anything that is soiled. The black the new colors will be much They will be made the collars, bows waists are marvelously im- proved by the boleros made of velvet flowers outlined worn. with these is a sort of flower composed ¢ tulle, white or colored, very finely jeweled with crystals. In the middle an aigret of fine white hairs simulates stamens. Petticoats will rem: very flat in the hip. but around the extreme edge they will be profusely trimmed and very full lawn dresses confirms this prediction, as they are all simply plaited or shirred at the back. smoothly fitting over the hips and beginning to The showing of flare just below the knee. It is natural to suppose that petticoats The princess which will take the petticoat is reall best adapted to style of dress This garment has a fine row of tucks around the waist, which molds the garment to the fig and extends over th hip iine, and at the me line. the model the present to flounce the petti- coat. S LR with jet and held together i B e with strings of jet beads. The newest pack skirts have en- They are to be found at all and most ex- tirely gome out. The the shops, In different 5 e stuff is the tajlor and walking colors, and make a gowa »m '.*‘“:‘ silk, gkirts are now made XO;‘;} Q‘:'llflk;l!‘ £ it o ibis op e e ioey. alliite sniibavely; waey e cod this year on the spring flexit s S0 soft ground. and the long sisel S xen n]n e .r'I Al i exture t when trains have passed away Edwne ‘wie atners D : to a gown it falls in perfect with the habit and the A :f:’g‘m}' S3te aulle pralty L h r tints of the cameo. ;\:,l,e,imrnfinf from the ' braid of black with a Nitle —/GhHE T ades of fawn and cream of differ- waist in the back, where siiver through !' that is very 9 g . s. T arrival of these t the skirt is tucked, box- charming to trim black W[t c pleated, shirred or gath- cloth gowns, and looks par- The h Qu‘ red. There are three new ticutarly well with a cloth rihbon man- i wave of making the walk- gown that has a wai ufactur have are design— ing skirts. Some are made or a front of white s made their spring ribb n than the designs of lust with wide tucks stitched flat to Tr:'a:)rafili‘(:“ltnnm x;urdmllr‘xl:‘r:‘: very ;(.ffv”;. i”}h L s R e the facket and s put In one crashed together ehoux. oF ¢ shades of biue, red ek = o %iiilar tucie: thise or two rows on the skirt, rosette to deco the left side attractive In th W — T b Lih s tanh the . stralght rows being corsage or the front of the s nthe & e L these djice, - O ESUECKUR Tl broken by loops and buttons feta is the weave. and i he grays there is a wide rangs nearly !0 the bottom of the BEIET i loons ahd buttons . fet T : e ont ey z S anEAEE ‘ket is fastened with but- effects are rampant n.-sometimes cam er ")nut halt a yard, ’:‘r‘ns‘o’i Ve Sledid - Tus in one color and s and heliotroe wiich gives the ap- . 2 3 2 . 0 b the ciEel rades, esg ( pearance aimost of « Stitched Felt, With Ribbon Trimming and fened with iops of iy rsian pat- et e flounce. A third and . the same. — Har- shade. All "g\?\.{; N a very smart way White Tail Feathers. per's Bazar. e A X »f having a tallo : X i = 0 fi.\;’\.‘ \ W~ n Tl ins or other thin materials. It s {nteresting -to be B IS R\RERRE > it tucked In compar- At all the new SrnESIVHC SIetdls lold a . few facis” Bkout . ¢ t tucked In compar- soft, clinging quality h makes them polors, as supported by \ B i adaptable to e of SowWn. the chief designers of all__Anaind. . 800, - Theds yme fovely silk musling ghades and frocks. hung from a deed with bunches of flowers and sprays cf Fair aalote ey yoke. There Is an A (o S Rl fmmense amount smartest’shizt ‘walst will*be Mad- axceptions, avold of raised stitch- tucked back and front from the nec: plye and pink, and ing on the new down, and th ks will be rather wide wenr pale tatior - made than otherwise. The great tendency I3 to Jows s gowns. §ome make the waist line as long 2 le in 2 e Lonl aist line as long as possible in Erecns an , A many as The tailor and walking skirts will barely aublirns hatred | twenty - five sweep the and the long train® w.oman looks or thirty have entirely ed away with the habit well in green, rows on the tting backs. R e g n of the bustle is heralded. It shades of red AR S and terra-cot- 5 S0 (a, grays and o wns Poses by Miss Laura Crews ) ,2;;: e “,S;i_ of the @Alcazar. V' providing _she / g is at ail good looking. the Photos by Alisky. <hade known as anything —_ flamboise. Ex- v novel () Shirt Waists from City of tremely dark he wa: of de- A Paris. people look nic- The. polka ¢ est in almost ev- . agAib Ao Db 0o R ery shade of nable, as well \) { Hats frem Coleman. . rese pink orange, e halr stripe, ( deep and rich pur- <, re are a O gy D DD D, 3 ples and blood red. %2 A >k, p i rows, 5 but not scarlet. , _ Strawberry af * aifteoent up and is not a large affair, but smail and well Brown haired folks g ved, lizht baby ids _anc 109 down, from shaped. can perhaps wear more e _and p olues, L Ars aretty. 0 the waist line to Sleeves are still worn tight, snd are colors than any others rq - bo(\ __cream, tack and any different ooc Eed below the knee; and much trimmed. They are quite long. and without committihg mistakes. W, With R\b delicate greens show OF- Danples aost on others again have the front the smartest ones are made ending In A but they should avoid grays and up to the exclusion of (o e mied dn oW _ breadth closely stitched, broaden. point which covers the top of the hand to greens. Black is by no means univer- other tints. Beautiful sashes k materfals, both . {\ cning at the bottom, and the back the knuckles. sally becoming. although if properly ma- and neckties have at eac.. end a flower of which are exceedingl adths In the same way. Collars are to he worn high, but not as nipulated a black gown is always In good design in veivet effect. and below this desirable. are a number of Sleeves are stili worn tight .and are stiff as they have bee ole and good taste. All whité is beau- deep silk fringe. The sashes are to be sh in Dlue with polka dots ch trimmed, some with bands of em — The new hats are made of some fancy tiful, but delightfully extravagant. though worn on the left at the front. and th» different sizes that are good, and a bright blue with a fine little dot that is effective locks like an India silk, while for n there is a bright red with a e dot that is most attractive. ster season is here and with it comes rma tlon and then follow- ing closely . Rl ¢ Qu"“' £ ra duation the r f . There is hardly a chat & 9w, With Ribbon 99 household that will woman must not be represented at one ) well dressed. Fichus ther event. and airy white dress ! nas to be ¥ worn. ing eagerl wrehed for. , see on hous: t in fvory-white or cream »n dinper gowns. though out ular fabric for either co e for ball gowns. A fichu is a jretty or graduation costumes, partic- enerally a becoming one. and latter. A novel introduction e et il ahtaie ENN S CORoN is the using of the point es many defects. It should never be ’ or organdie instead of silk or he g the shoulders so that it similar fa for the =lip skirt which ,wn on the back of the is to be with such dresses. The ds must be brought thin ur ves a light transparent 1 and tied in a bow of me- with short ends. The ruffles put on must be rcant. They can be of net. picated chiffon or of iace, but they raust never be full aped tha some very charming at are now to be seen | be verv fashionabie of summer FOWS. irimming on al look to the g on young girls. ng. which is wonderfully popular, playe an important part in many of the ROW Some of the skirts are tucked from waist to hem, one might say from neck io feet, as the waists are mads en- tirely of narrow tucks, Simplicity ia ihess gowns is required. ch is particularly perhaps not more so than pale shades. Remember that there are exceptions to every rule. 2nd of course a great deal de pends upon the color of the eyes and com- plexion, as well as upon the shade.of the broidery or lace, and others are covered with net or embroidery at the elbow. They are very long, and the smartest ones are made ending in a point which covers the top of the hand to the knuckles <traw braids, tulle or silk nets of the most fantastic shapes. Beasts, birds, wings and feathers are much less worn. ‘and you can't have enough flowers.—Edith Law rence in the March Ladies’ Home Jour- White taffeta petticoats are to be worz nal. ckin. Taking it all round, one will find a good deal with light dresses. In ti e that these suggestions do n: exactly tally day of chemical cleaning the whita o This is @ very good time of year to buv with the opinion held by most woren whd light silk petticoat is only a moderate remnants in trimmings.” There are Ruy all their things at the sales. Ther2 extravagance. The black and white bolero Jack et= of lace and pas- are a few happily blessed individuals who striped sllk petticoats are highly sementerie; thers are fronts of alwaye kncw exzic'ly, what suits them. approved by Dame Fashion and embroider ed and jetted There are no colors more deceiving than the white taffetas with flounces tulle and net. and there blues and pinks. " urquoise blue is a dif- trimmed with'lines of black lace are all- lace waists feult color to choose. To begin with, insertion are to be worn upon a n d jackets. ihere are many shades in the tones them- dressy oceasions. besides the capes gelves. The hard green tone is dreadfully It is noticeable that all the a n d collars yupbecoming, especially to fair people, sew modes are fluffily femi- that ~an'be o usvally affect it with all zeal. nine. Even the shirt waist has u til zed stooped from Its tailor-made Real lace, or good imitation. is certain position to take on a bit of to take high place among decorations for softeves. ;. Mer summer garments. A soft, fine design in morning wear there are still stiff and straight muslin waists, but since the shirt waist has heen accepted for dress. fer wear as well as practical, it ensively d in Renalssance lace is extensively used “making many of the new boleros and the long transparent sleeves, but satin linings are introduced with advant- Y e sl age If the diaphanous sleeves prove ; 00" dressy for a particular occa- Fihe seamne e A slon. It is a good plan to hava 1:1';:’::; season many dainty little a number of silk or satin un- L are. elther. irsproved oo ne” dersieeves, adjustable. so !)\Iflt are either improved upon or Lot o e injured by their adaptation into removed by the alteration e hmer Rtes WL bvdry of a few stitches. These spends considerable tima s sieeves in different tints— ARG Ses e e pale blue, cherry red, money over these same demi- B et iliiiraNe” Yol feason gowns, as they are low. otc.—can be va- opporiunicy "ot & enensiping. riously used with her mdividuat bt Thes matching removabls her individual taste. They are generally gowns to be worn in the house, but arc both for day and evening wear,. and are made of light materials —light In texture as well as coloring—and can er be classed yoke-linings and rib- bon choux. Some of the nov- elties in spring and summer wash goods are exceedingly ,pleasing. under the head of Among them the tailor gowns, 2 are sheer althowgh very € lawns or often cloth is used “With sk ¢ batistes with in their manufac- o . Wi i repe. sct designs ture. The cloths Fine Straw. With Silk pe in - embroid- this vear are so soft and pliable that they to good advantage on the cummer gowns, ery of bla-t or white and white in con- Jjunction. As examples may be cited a white ba- tiste with groups of black geometrical fig- ures rather widely separated, a pink ba- can be worn for many different occasions, and are being more and more used for elaborate gowns as time goes on. There are, besides the light cloths, a or, indeed, to make over winter gowns that have lost their first freshness and styiish appearance. Another month and these same things will be much more ex- great number of novelty goods this year pensive, although there will be a greater tiste with groups of similar figures in that are especially sultable for thesa variety to choose from, for what is going bright, dcep-blue batiste embroidered gowns. Among them are the different on now (taking stock, as it is called) with white Louls Quinze bowknots. Any means simply that what remains on hand is disposed of rather than carried over for another season. The lace boleros are remarkabie—-those of these would make a charming gown. Fewer flowers are worn {n the hair with evening costumes, while ornaments enjo. increased favor. Among the newest of kinds of crepes and crepons, and a most fascinating material called crepe de Paris that looks like a very fine crepe de Chine, with a polka dot of the same color woven ties form a eollar and bow with long >nl- Ten-inch shot taffeta ribbon. In white and colors, will be worn in the same mann. —March radies’ Home Journal. The first duty of the woman Who values looks is her good Ro Ygh g, not to allow herself The great enemy, of beauty, most often encountered by the womep of the leisure classes, is embon- point. All the conditions of their life tend ta foster it—getting up late, eating generous- 1y of all kinds of rich foods, walking little, having no more serious occupation than visiting their friends or their dressmak- ers. All this luxury and ease of life tend to engender obesity. Women who are inclined to be too stout traw, With Wing and Silk Crepa. to grow either too stout or too thin. should avoid all enervating iuxuries and habits. They should get up early, dress themselves without the aid of a maid and ake lots of active, jolly exercise.in the open air. A great many women thin_. dancing dur- ing the party season takes the place of outdoor exe This is a gre of the sort On the contrary. dancing in heated ball- rooms, in overscented and germ-filled at- quite as likely to prove in- beneficial an who is fnclined to obesity must eschew all kinds of fattening foods, such as wheat. corn and graham breads, breakfast cereals of all kinds, pork In all t mistake. It does nothing ms and all meats containing a su- perabundance of fat: fish preserved in oil. such as salmon, sardines, an- chovies, vegetables containing starch or sugar., such as peas, beans, carrots. oyster plant, egg plant and potato macaroni, noodles, spaghett!, vermicelli and ee puddings and pastry of deseripti However, it is much better for the woman who wants to reduce her weight to increase the ex- penditure rather than to limit the receipts of her system It Is a good old rule that tells us we should always arise from the table feeling as theugh we could eat more. But above all other things cultiva vour mind, de- p vour intellect. It is deniable that there ex- fsts a strong bond between heauty. ald to be ugliness, the most ting charm beautiful wo- A man may grow weary soft the and of of the pas: 1 tracted to e bright sparkle f the face lit up by Mant mind and in tellig mouth = talks « exercise is jus 1in reducing o as is physi- cal exercise » use their a elv ot 1d const activ grow clined to embonpoi r art, | ture, verything that tends minds 18 to both expression n whe is inclined to regi the very opposite lowed by her ste thin people are inclined to be irritabie. ner sily worried and an- noyed heart and are ighten g. If they want to gain w good looks t must strenuc a. this unhappy dispo: tion; not think so much about themse t them instead take up some interesting pursuit, which will leave them no time to woiry and fret over trifles It is a w ada at tells us to ugh and grow fat.” There is reat 1 of truth in these terse little words. Thin people ought te sleep all they possi- bly can, take an abundance of goo¢ nourishing s milk cheese eggs. urishing meats starchy vegetables. But they shou careful not to cvertax the digestion. as that uses up flesh quite as much as does violent exc They shoul exciting stimu- 1ants, On the con- trary, they may drink mait liquors, such as beer and porter. The thin w would better avold such meats as veal, lamb and all the oth- ers known as “young meats,” for they contain numerous half-formed tizsves, which are assimilated with difficul The wo » wants to have a hand- some, erect carriage a to walk weil must, by judicious and exercise, let no set of muscles fall into disuse, A Frenchman would have con- utilizin scales for These scales hith- use, except to col- Of course, tha is limited, only Who.t ceived th to hav lectors of marine demand in this d certain exceptionaily fine or rare scales being sought after. Now. owing Aiscovery of a French chemist there is ely to growing ma for fish scales. The Frenchman has dis- covered how the e used in the manufacture w idea of rnament ? e been of little curtos, be other ornaments. In th been so great for them in Lyons that the supply is absolutely Inadequatg. Mr. Covert, United Star Consul at Lyons, has interested himself in the matter and fi out that there is an actual demand for large quantities of scales in his con- sulate, where good prices are paid for them. He has even deemed the innova- tion of sufficient importance to form the subject of a repart to his Government, in which he gives directions as to how the scales should be transported. He sa “The scales should be sprin kled with salt as soon s they are removed from the fish and packed in cans, Aay specimens sent to this consulate will receive carefu. exam- ination and the re- sults, with any sug- gestions that may be made and partic- ulars of prices of- fered, wili be duly reported. It is be- lieved in Lyons that the sale of these scales may result in estab- lishing an impor- tant business in an article that now has no com- mercial value.” Owing to the fagt that the American stur- geon has the most beautiful and largest scales of almost any fish in the world this item may have con- siderable inter- est to fishermen on the Pacific Coast, whera large quantities of this huge fish are now cap- tured. On July 19 last an eruption of stones, ashes and steam occurred from the great crater of Mount Etna, and the astronomical observatory situated near the base of the crowning cone of the volcano had a remarkable escape. Siones were shot to @ height of more than a mile, and thirty noles were made by these projectiles in the iron dome of the observatory, which covers a large and valuable telescope. Fortunately “the Instrument was not touched. Fifty holes in the ground near the observatory show how close and flerce was the strange bombardment. Where the falling stones plerced the wooden floor holes were burned