The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 15, 1899, Page 31

81 Fere Hre the @m\m\ Latest %Q\a in Lades’ Oador-Wade Costumes for the Fall and Winter of 7895 UNDAY CALL. THE _suit would ury are and material as and ele- was—and either—when & geverely simple In i most um- t had not either or a beauty of that maturer sald in thos a woman w anything costume coul in its dema and many dared attempt expe: tion. Now, however, all this has changed. The tailor-made gown, while still re- talning its characteristic simplicity of foundation design, has accommodated itself to varled circumstances and condi- tions in & way which has made it at once the most popular, the most becoming and the most truly essential costume in the whole feminine wardrobe. In the begin- mng, a figure had to fit the tallored sult; now, by reason of the wider latitude al- lowed the deslgner’s fancy and the better understanding which has been arrtved at concerning the possibilities and tmposst- bilities of the feminine form, the taflored suit fits the figure, conceals its - fections and enhances its beautles. tatlor-made costumes here depicted iltus- trate the latest and most exclustve styles. They are typical garments, correct every detail and form authoritative els for copying or comparison. Flgure 1 is a blue cheviot bicycling cos- tume with a vest of Tattersall vesting. The jacket, which is close fittng in the back and at the sides and half fitting m front, bas a whole back and terminates three-quarters of an inch below the walst Itne. The fronts close with two buttons only, though they are spaced for eight. The bottom follows the waist line from the back to the hips and then dips grace- fully to the front. The fronts are mod- erately cut away below the lower clostng button to display the vest, and the lower corners are rounded. Above the closing the fronts are reversed in a moderately long shawl roll, which is faced with vel- vet to produce a notched collar effect. The front edge of the roll is finished with two rows of stitching and the lower edge with five. The top fullness of the sleeves is gathered to the scye, and the sleeves are finished at the hand with six rows of stitching. The vest 1s double-breasted, without & collar, closes with elght buttons and has the edges single-stitched. The divided skirt is fitted smoothly ower the hips by three darts at each side, and the lower edge has a lberal amount of e more exacting r own personallty, e who never even ent M this direc- drapery. The divided portions are joined together by a straight leg sewm. The i_:fi_Ea. rt 18 the Figure 19 rep! backs are closed with & seat seam, snd the front with a curved opening with a fly. The fullness at the back laid in one wide under-{olding plait st each side of the fork seam, and the fromt in one narrow under-foiding pluit side, the right overtapping thm left. The lapped parts of the front with nine buttor the lower of which placed on the knee line. A bicyciing costume of a different but quite as pleasing style is seen in Figure 3, the matertal being heather cheviot for the jacket and plaid cheviot for the skirt. ¥igure § shows a charming visiting costume of new blue cheviot with a vest of lght fancy vestng. The Eton jacket is close-fitting ta the back, which has no center seam. The fronts are made tight-fitting by single back length t below the walist curves upward from the hips to the @mrt seams, where it rms scalloped effects. regular double-breasted though the fronts do and are finished at the row of stitching. breasted with cutoft lapels and collar its edges, like those of the jacket, are singie-sti . The ene-picce circular ekirt laps at the framt center, the right edge overiapping the left. There are no hip darts, but the watst fullncss is shrunk to the band over fthe praminent part of the hips and the ft 18 thus made perfect. The sheath effect I8 given by a petticoat especially designed for circular skirts; it has no back fullness, and fits close to just below the knee, where & gathered circular flounce i8 joined to t, fluring sutficiently to sustain the d The Norfolk jacket costume exempiified by figure 4 18 bullt of checked cheviot. The jacket is single-breasted and extends 84 inches below t line; the bwck is whole and th ody seams exterd to the shoulder ne, while the fronts are fitted by sing st darts, which meet the side body se and are covered with straps which wide at the top, taper gracetully to the walst The fu A leather belt The skirt s cireular by three me the in to te x buttoned s project, @+ . @ PP RE S FJltustrations Gak Sarto . ‘a voeie@ en Jrom ¢ At Journal. -G . R ) man. The go length, the notc the roll Is from 5 fronts, which are s with seven buttc bove the is well rounded to an outside breast flap to go in or urse, ut. This skirt is also ure 15. shows a rid. d a tri frock, has a 1w skirt which extends to the m. part of the hips. I or a man. waist seam point at the lapel rounded at the ¢ flaps are , the edges the sleeves, which are the figure 16, are f The edges are the the seams are match, except the with a jacket of The jacket is clo and In’ the back v lapped ¥ at the croes just below the 3 t m over the below which to the bottom. The o the left front gore se in the bac n front on of the v nd -the slecve sidebody extend to the shoulder, where they meet the dart seams. The side or underarm seams trace the form the end: the back tuck t i C,—um.z—uFCQE@ HAIR A RA