The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 30, 1899, Page 24

THE SUNDAY CALL e e R R S ] 050000 600000006000 000 06000800700 /)«)aoo']v 0080000 co00 dosocvoao0s 2 & S~ lJ 9 RS Q ;\O\ 0OQg e 0000000000000 CO0CORPRRCOCIT0 S5 o 3 9 y 9 Q 0 1 3 o [+] ‘g o Vhrned Qo [P -X T V-T-1--7-1-1] VERY LATEST FADS UP-TO-DATE SUTMER GIRLS &/7”' must ride, bike, row, swim, 4 fish, play golf and be past grand \[ mistress of several lesser sports would be constd- d or matron. resides If you d a moder t now flshing gives place only to Willlam Whitten and 3 15t returned from a most sucy They are unusually 1 not a few other soclety women excel in this art. Th: t it is the namby-pamby creature, too for violent exercise, who turns to for amusement. Think not that it { u v would find herself cas shade b: prettier sisters at those resorts where da begi t ime, where husband-hunt- ing the d recreation and where hops, flirtations, vachting parties and the {lk make up the diurnal routine. My lady of the fishing pole is a far dif- ferent sort of creature. Generally pretty, alwavs attractive, certainly energetic, she 1ak Walton knew what he ut when he wrote, “God never a more calm, quiet, inno- nan ling. ngling maiden regard- color to her cheeks, to her form. She who intil the wee her day's sport, en 9 o'clock y be. with the sun. There is a hs egg and a cup of coffee, . too, i she is one of the ed c Jok has the luncheon basket sma’ gen- ar- g tackle was straightened out the night before. There is a tramp of & th they their can tell yc of the present day, wear themselves to zle hunti ound after new forms citement hey did not travel in of change, neither did they burn life’s candl both ends, but lived calraly and cultiva a placid temperament. [ don’t b 1y one ever heard of nerves in those days But to-dax, bless your hearts, we cul- tivate our nerves. We live off our nerves. Indeed, not to have nerves is to be qun- fashion Then. dear heavens let us be unfas e ¢ The woman of nerves, to my mind, is not half’ so deserving of pity as are her near relatives and friends, for one nerv- ous woman can create more nervous among other women that nervous 1 am sure it would stretch from here to Patagonia. r Has her own particular set of grie and fondly fancies that her collection is ten times worse and harder to bear than that of every other san. The one Worry that she shares in common with all other women 1 burglars. Is there one of you, I wonder, who does not w: fifteen times in the night to hear a house-breaker fussing with the lock on the back doer, ar trying to_force a_way through the pantry window? Whenever I hear the old story of women peering under the bed to see if there is a man conc ed there, I think of the amusing description Mrs. Gaskell gives in her quaint little story, “Crawford,” where she says: “When, the village of Crawford was In- fested with robbers we began to relate our {ndividual fears, and the private pre- cautions each of us took. 1 owned that my pet apprehension was eyes—eyves look- ing at me and watching me, gilittering out from some_dull, flat wooden surface. I saw Miss Mattie (one of the old maids of the village) nerving herself up for a confesston, and at last out it came. She couple of miles to her favorite fishin ground. She does not care. What are suple of miles to the healthy athletic girl of the time? he reaches the fishing ground. If her k IS, w her and s are. plentiful she goes with a handsome string of time to provide a tempting for the late risers. If the fishing bas been good, if some big fellow has escaped her and she thinks she knows where he is, back she goes again to his aunts. You are not likely to see her until evening. Perha s the lake ps she has to row acr fore she finds a spot to cast her lines. he oars blister her hands, but the row- ing strengthens her muscies, for the ang- m is an independent creature, leaving for man to do that can do hers Her cost Simple, but awfully fetching, the 1l say. Poor words to describe a one hundred dollar outfit, but it hardly cost a penny 1 There is a broad h: of felt, excellent to keep off the sun, not too ornately trimmed, in case the scasion should arise for using it as a A thunder storm can't hurt it. The d goes in for common sense if vou please. to tor - her shoe tops would be if ry shoes. But she doesn’t ave made her wise. that one would ny pair of ballroom stout palr of boots, shoe where hing the knees, through which the ¢ strive in vain to penetrate. cloth is of the color that most be- comes her. The material is sgmething that w! and all sorts of wear and tear, that the brambl cannot injure, that water will not damage. The angling maid knows well her craft, and wisel s she chosen it, for nowhere will she real pigasure, such healthf g, quiet, in- than in_her endeavors nny beauties of the mountain reams lunch at the .o . Burl me Country ith their decorations of formed a charmingly monious background brightlv colored muslins, veilings pair mate S, A spotted mu in a tling. shade of Cerise was made in princess fashion, al- most absolutely plain of cut and tight and clinging. as if of cloth, but decorated at the hottom of the skirt with four curyed flounces of black top flounce narrower_than the others ht into Yoops ar with < ainst the cerise. The bodice th a rolled collar, str L narrow on the should E ' the top of the yok with ck lace frills ned part of a fichu filled into the ne h more frillings and with the ends in front and carried around the in sash fashion, fastening at the under a [ gold buckle set with eross waist hack rubies. The hat which accompanied this dress was of black crinoline trimmed with cherries, A delightfully fresh and simple costume worn by a voung girl with lovely eyes was a cream-tinted muslin flowered with roses and foliage scattered at wide inter- vals. Lace and narrow pink ‘velvet rib- bon supplied the trimming, the lace being et in as rows of insertion between pufis, descending thus almost to the ankles, where the story was taken up by deep lace flounces. The hat, of white lace and of Directoire shade, trimmed tipped white roses and with one long tulle string. instead of the usual two. <sibly the most notable thing about this on of its sleeves, whose ntly been cut out of =0 that the four points down oddly over the hand. Another beautiful gown Is a sheer grass- green linen calculated to rouse one to a fit of the enthusiasms.” The long polo- " opening in the back and slashed cn the right side, was threaded and through with a lacing of crow 1 velvet ribbon and fell over underskirt o cate biscuit-colored vhich also formed the under bodice was the fa st hole exact square which the low-cut corsage of linen held up by means of black velvet )5 across the ghoulders. sleeves of this dress illustrated Newport's newest summer fad, having the appearance of long gloves of the green linen, velvet-threaded at the top, where were drawn up upon the lace not they he shoulder and ending at the quite to t T{, ) | This department ic giene or proper living. If any on desires infao; fully answered in these columns. Write as sften as you like, a: Addrass e she had been a girl any name that you choose owned that ever sip she had dreaded be! caught by her last leg, just as she was getting into bed, by somé one concealed under it. She sald when she w younger and more active he used to take a flylng leap from a Qistance and so bring both her legs up saf into be at once, but that this nad always annoyed Deborah, who piqued 1f on getting into bed gracefully, and ‘en it up in consequence. But 4 terror would often come < it was o very. unpleas- a face bought a penny eing a man fierce ing out at you, she had ball, and now she rolled this ball under the bed every night. If it came out on the other side, well and f not, she alw took care to i on the bell rope, and meant ohn' and ‘Harry’—just as if all out - men servants to answer her pect e all of us more or less ner 12 lets ness chooses. There is the woman who goes to the play and during the performance con- tantly sniffs and peers around in an ap- hensive way. We all know that “fire” her thoughts. and are made accord- unccmfortable. hen there is the calamitous creature,® ho always foreboding some impend- “‘feels it in her some women's nervous- ing di - because she bor and the woman who ‘‘doesn’t be- lieve ghosts,”” who burns the gas and sits vp in bed half the night and keeps everybods awake, so as to be ready to run away from them if they should 1 appearance, and—but dear me, the list is too long to enumer: Let meé tell you this—my lady of n | never charm by her beauty. To sit her presence and endure her fidgets what demon of unrest pos- her i ssimply maddening. tate of nervousness will sometimes heart-wringing crop of facial eruptions. It will dry the skin and make it sallow. take the vitality out of the hair and derange the internal organs to the-utter detriment of beauty. Those knowing gentlemen of T ellets tell us that when there i the structure, of the nervous usually because some cer ain re- of cells is not well flushed with The remedy, they say. lies in dis e and training, nourishing food, e e and plenty of sieep and good fresh happen to put In in and not know A bring forth 1s and a defect system in it is glon blood. cipli Fnglish physiclans claim that many of the nervous diseases to which American women are victims are due to what they term the *‘rocking-chalr habit.” They say that the amount of nervous energy ex- .pended in useless and Injurlous rocking is fncredible, and that a woman who im- agines herself to be resting will exercise as much force of the lower muscles of the back as would suffice to run a sewing ma- chine for the same length of time. All T can say in support of thig theory is that the health of middle-class English- women, among whom rockers are rare, is generally superior to that of our own. The finest recipe in the world for nerv- ousness is to laugh at everything, espe- BY MME. HYGEIA. = | WO for he benefit of ali those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- ration on etther of these subjects the questions will be cheer- sk as maiy questions as you please and sign 1l communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call. 3 cially your own ailments: they will dis- appear before a hearty laugh like dew be- fore the sunshine. Never talk, Tead, think or see anything sad or harrowing unless it is an impera- cessity, r overtax your strength and, above e, sleep. Sleep whenever everyt vou feel sleepy. Spend as much of your time as you pos: sibly can out of doors. There is no medi- ciné in the world for the woman of nerves equal to God's glorious sunshine. Then feed up on nourishing broths, little stakes and chops and plenty of fattening cereals and drinks, Don’t worrs Vo matter what comes, don’t make yourself and every arie you miserable by fretting. Troubles Seem to pile up around vom movatat high, and vou'll wonder if yvou will ever live through them. wi We all do. 't it better to come out of them 1 with several ad- ditional crow’'s feet and a number of white hairs? Of course it is. even if the woman In the ne practice on a:cornet seven or « veral h You And th a smiling face u have the roxt 1f-control the Keep a stiff v shoe-string for »ce of gristie and w rve to do. do it with t of a hod, firm § work you I ratever possible expenditure of worry and force. Answers to Correspondents MISS belie of woman to w t easurement, length of neck, height; ete.. but I do-not happen to e these measuremerts at hand, so am unable to give them to y Am forry. Hope next time you co. will be able to give you a more s factory answer. MARIE—I"ollowing is the formula for Spermaceti the orange flower skin food. one-half ounce; white wax, one-half ounce; lanolin, one ounce; cocoanut oil, one ounce; oil of sweet almon ounces; orange flower wi one ounce simple ' tincture of z0in, ten drops. Melt the first five -dients in a porce- lain kettle. Whe sroughly incorpa- rated remove from the fire and add the benzoin and the orange water. Then beat briskly with an egg-beater until fluffy and beginning to harden. There is nothing poisonous or inflammable about it. What a very funny question! As though I would suggest anything for the skin that was either one of these two things. Be sure and use a porcelain kettle in preparing the food, as tin is Injurious to the oils. Rub it into the skin at bed time, after the face has been shed with tepid water and castile soap. Doubtless the little eruptions that cause ycu so much unhap- piness are the result of some derange. ment of the digestive apparatus. Watch vour diet carefully. Also follow the gen- eral rules of hygiene so_frequently laid out in this department. You will ‘find Ifs- terine, diluted in three times as much boiled water, a very healing lotion. EDITH M.—I cannot give you the name of a prepared face powder through the wish_a columns of this paper. If you home-made powder here is the formula for one that is delightful: One ounce Lu- hin's rice powder, one ounce purest oxide of zinc, one-half ounce carbonate of mag- nesia (finely powdered), twenty grains horacic -acide two drops attar = of “rose. Have your druggist powder each ingre- dient separately in a mortar. Put your rice powder through a fine steve through bol cloth. Do the same the nxide of 2 magnesia_and_bor nd then with acid hefore adding them to the rice der. \When all are combined put t he cloth. After each sifting thr 1y particles that rema.n « f rose last. If you wish to vour powder add the fon of finely powdered car- nct happen to have the prep- > hair ton you mention. ticularly for A very e tonic. hair _that is made as follows: Witch hazel, one ounce:; alcohol. « 5 f. one-half ounce; resorcin, ruly every morning with-a - scalp. of drugs of any sort shou regulated by advice of Phosphate of is not really but, like e thing else. depe on whether or not your physical s < it. If it does ther your compl probably b much improved. for perfect health means v t ski 1 nause dose and I t it ned you, tak- You took il diuretic. ing purgat 3 smaller coffee, take n mod not affect your comple other. Your friend probably had @ Tt may be that soap tiful skin naturally. does not agree with your skin. Some peo- ple cannot use it at all. In that case sub- stitute almond meal or fine flaxseed meal. GRACIE A.—Here is the recipe for the strawberry cream: Spermaceti, one-half 2; whi on alf ounce; sweet md oil, nd one-half ounces; wherry juice, three-four of an henzein. three Ops. he cocoa made of equal parts of lanolin, r, and cocoanut oil, is just need for developing the neck answered your first really do ot kno of any way of reducing large knuckles except by constantly pressing them. The cucumber milk will improve the .yellow skin. Cream will not cause superfluous hair to grow. 1 have never before heard the theory abaut mashed grapes, so can- not give an opinion on the subject. The drier and fluffier the hair the more in- clined it is to curl, so that any oll rubbed constantly. into_the scalp is very apt to make the hair less curly. The astringent Wwash is made by placing in a half-pint bottle one ounce of cucumber juice, three ounces of elder flower water and one ounce of eau de cologne. Then shake the mixture well and add very slowly eone- half ounce of simple tincture of benzoin, chaking now and then. Then fill the bot- "THELMA B.—Hav question by mail. hand in veritable mittens, which made the wearing of other gloves superfluous. The green straw hat had a short crown and a high, flaring brim, which was cov- ered with black ostrich feathers standing vet higher. Threaded through the crown Were scarf strings of soft green and black tulle, very full and so arranged that half were tled white the others fluttered down almost to the waist line. Almost as pretty was a cool-looking gray muslin spotted with white and made quaintly chic by lines of tucks that ran in waving, sinuous fashion about skirt and bodice and sleeves below creamy lace flounces. Gray appeared again in the hat, whose tint exactly matched that of the muslin and which scarcely appeared un- der the fluttering softness of beautiful gray ostrich feathe Some of the most f: shionable women at the swell resort invariably wear of a morning a white pique irt with a white lawn walst, this toilet, simple as it sounds, being of the most exquisite cut and fashioning. The waist, which must be of the sheerest, most cobwebby m: terial, is intersected with unlined Inser- tions ‘of lace and is finished with dainty hness and erectness, is more or less of a_mystery to those who have not mas- tered the modiste’s secret of setting small upright hones on the inside of the fairy- like structures, which rear their heads without hinting at the necessity of such assistance. Ecru or_biscuit-colored plque has proved one of the most satisfactory materials of the season, and at a recent club break- fast a dress of this sort appeared with de band of white pique at the hem, ped with blue. The skirt narrow and swathing, lay six inches on the deck, and the bodice had a double sailor collar of blue and white, with a soft white lace vest and a_broad white band at the waist through whose buckle an end of the lace was carried. Long, slender white wings decked the white straw hat, whose other trllr“nmlngs were black velvet and white tulle. POINTS OF USE FOR ALL. - = tle with elder flower water. The tincture of benzoin is a perfectly clear brown liguid. Cornstarch will not enlarge the ally if the face Is thoroughly p and water each night A hot solution of borax ) a quart of water—used ing. before ret —a teaspoonful three times a day _ought to drive away the red blotches. Precipitated sulphur is a powder. It is sulphur that has been purified by precipitation and is altogether different from the flower of sulphur. I Have had no experience with the paste you speak of, although I know it is fre- quently recommended. There is no rea- don why sulphur should make the hair Brow. MRS, ROSE—I do not happen to have a formula such as your fi question de- mands. For your hair try this shampoo: Powdered castile soap, one ounce; POw- dered borax, one ounce; alcohol, one ounce; yolk of an egg, well b warm Put this in a bottle and cork it tightly. Shake the bottle until you e a fine lather. If carefully corked er using it will keep in a cool place for long time. There are so many things Move agreeable to use on the hair than castor ofl. The following tonic, for in- nee: Four oun u de cologne, one- f ounce tincture cantharides and one-fourth m each of oil of lavender and oil of mary. Apply to the roots 1g a small sponge water, one pint. a es of once or twice a day, us for the purpose, C. D. T.—The following tonic is a cure for dandruff and <o excellent for hair that in: tself from the scalp: i resorcin, one-fourth ounce gly ough al- cohol to fill a tw Apply every night bing i e scalp. While using this tonic the hair should be washed every ten days and the ends should be cut or singed once a montn. ADELAIDE “R. any thanks for the very flattering opinion concerning me. May vou never be undeceived! For tie hands give them a thorgugh cleansing with lemon juice, followed by an applica- tion of cold c¢ream, and hereafter wear a ir of rubber gloves ' while shing dishes and about your housework. I am sure the poor little hands will then cease to be a source of mortification to you. Regarding the mole, there is an acid that you can apply vourself, but this will re- move only the mole and not the hairs. Electricity is the only thing that will re- move these permanently, so do you mnot think vou had better find a skilled der- matologist and let her do the whole thing for you? If you expect to come to the ity at any time send me a stamped ad- dressed envelope-and I will give you the address of some one here who will do the work for you thoroughly and without leaving any scar. nder any ecircum- stances do write to me again. PALMI MISS M., Mt. View—Your nature Is thoroughly ‘practical and calculating. You are apt to be strictly just and no more in your business affai You have plenty of go abead spirit, and prefer to take the lead -in all important matters in your household affairs. You will have a very eventful career. . MARION CULVER, City—your hand indicates a restless, excitable nature, which, uncurbed, will not bring happiness to either yourself or others. You have great mental activity, but as a general thing poorly directed aims. Be ever care- ful in your choice of a husband or your married life will be brief. BLANCHE L., San Rafael—Yours is the hand of a happy man, well content with your lot in life. You have few in- terests outside of your family circle, and are constantly seeking the good in those vou meet. You will make one marriage and have three children.® MISS M. STONE, San Jose—Your nature is so intense t! ou miss the finer touches in life. You are jealous of those you love and do not credit people with the love they bear you. You will have a sea voyage before very long. LITTLE AGNES—This little miss will be very Purftanical in her ideas of life and will not allow_sentimentality to gov- ern her actions. She will marry well at 24 4nd will go abroad after her marringe. MR. B. B. WREN—Your paims indicate a level headed, sensible man, but one who has not had thingg_as pleasant as they might have been. Your financial affdirs have not been entirely satisfactory, but yvou will have better luck next year. You will marry once. MRS. P. P. WREN—You do not make the most of your life, as you allow trifles to worry and disturb you, causing your- self .and others discomfert. You are en- ergetic and w g to do what is right, STRY & ™ but ilke Martha of b6ld, you are careful and troubled about many things. MISS HOPE LA CHAPELL, Stockton— 1t is difficult for you to place your affec- tions as you are hard to please. Your love affairs will always be more or less dis- appointing. You dislike to assume Te- sponsibilities and would find domestic life burdensome. MISS FAY BELMONT—This person will experience many changes in life, but will always have pienty of friends and will marry twice. You allow the emotions to rule rather too much. You will travel ex- tensively and make a home in several dif- ferent places. LADY MAUDE, Stockton—You will make a change in location which will be of decided advantage to you, You have plenty af enterprise and ambition and a talent for mimicry, and would succeed in dramatic work. You have a very artigtic temperament. MISS LILLIAN RUSSELL, Stockton— You have never had health that you could depend upon and have had two severe ill- nesses in the past. You have a mature i‘reatly dependent upon loving attentions. he early part of your life shows several severe disappointments, but the future looks_bright. : N. P., Fresno—You will never allow sen- timent to interfere with sense. Your head will always rule your emotions. -~ Your lines do not siow a very strong constitu- tion, but with your intense ambition you will overcome all obstacles. Your nature is_quite Puritanical. S8 CAB G. V.—Your nature is force- ful. You are inclined to want your own way under all circumstances. Do not allow yourself to worry over your dis- appoiniments. There are good financtal prospects for you between 40 and 50. MAY 1I., Mission Street—Your nature is R FATE IS WRITTEN IN YOUR HAND. eful and methodical. You are. very censitive and easily hurt when no injury is intended. Your life in the early part shows poor health and trying conditions, You will travel later in life. EDD M.; Mission—You are a good- hearted, easy-going individual, but so far lacking in will power to carry out plans frequently made. You are practical and clear-headed, but a trifle too impulsive for vour own good. There are better financial prospects ahead for you. ZACHARY TAYLOR—You are a cau- tlous, conservative person, one who could not be influenced readily by those about you unless their methods appealed to your judgment. Plenty of quiet determination is shown here and much firmness. MRE. PRINCE—Your hand ndlcates a nervous, susceptible nature, Interested. in anything occult or mysterious. You have married_a man of phlegmatic tempera- ment, who is, however, very fond of you. VINCENT MARTIN—This hand shows an impressible nature. You are fond of the opposite sex and vet fastidious in the selection of an object upon whom to lavish y’our ]aflectiun, You are sensible and emo- tional. MIS8 RUTH R.—Your hand shows love of ease and luxury and a fondness for all the good things of this world, without a correspofiding desire to make the neces- sary effort to secure them. You are rather wiliful and inclined to the material rather than to the spiritual: MISS M. E., Sacramento—You allow peo- ¥le to impose upon you through your af- ections and do not recelve as much as you lavish upon others. Do mnot allow vour heart to govern you so completely. You will marry once. MISS DAISY GONE—You. will ‘marry happily, but a man with small means. In the early part of your married life' you will have to exercise your usual economy. You have an abundance of courage and will make the most of your life. W. S. 8., Fresno—You are a person to go to extremes in all you do. You like to investigate every new system; are broad-minded and courageous; easily an- gered but quickly over it, and are gen- erous in all your thoughts. You will make money early in life and will marry once. IDA McF., San Jose—This is the hand of wasted opportunities, but there are many happy possibilities In your future. Ycuu will marry a man of small means at 20. GEORGE NASH, Napa—Your life has been -a serious disappointment owing to & PALMISTRY of some kind, and lawsults are your par- ticular delight. You do not get on hap- pily in your home life, partl ; 8% otr Jown disposition. Ty, roesen Madarie Neergaard, pupil of St. scientific palmis hours 1 to 8 p. classes. Gernain, reading, by mmil, $1; offl 616 Geary st., above Jone: Is removed by DR. and MRS A. W. TRAVERSE, D Duniding, 1170 Market i oar Taylor, rooms 28-23, with the electric_needle, without pain or your pfns having been thwarted in years scar. Moles, warts, wrinkles, past. k&’ouhm%st bu{vue of =lfqul}:‘l funa try :}:m'eggg- L Srecking, ea PIEtE to make the best o ourself. e holds = removed. Per. much for you still. ¥ S {r&nl}ex;flmx\llmteed. Hours, 1 HELEN BANKS, Oakland—You are too easily influenced, and you allow your emo- tions to rule your life. Exercise more self. denial and vou will be happier. FANNIE, L., Sonoma—You have had two unhappy love affairs and in conse- uence are cynical and cold-hearted. ‘heer up; there is better success for you later on. T. M. C., Hayes street—You will have a long and prosperous life, with few dis- appointments. Your married life has been a ha%;y one and will continue so. N, C. GILBERT—This is the hand of a man engafied in mechanical work. You would make a good civil engineer. You will marry twice and be the father -of T e —This palm indicates a restless, irritable nature, inélined to be flekle and proud. You will marry a'man whod will dominate you; but for your best good. BOB GLEN—You are always in trouble "WRINKLES Removed and face rejuvenated by m. discavered electrioal process for §50.to H00. - Suy what the world’s greatest serpentine dancer, cur s pa i DAL o uf e 5] lood and tissue b 2 PERARMAN TOILET CREAM. " ‘I certainly can recommend ycur delightful cream - one of the best things for Its pur- pose I have ever used.’” ‘Autograph letter can be seen at office of A. \WW. TRAVERSE, M. D. : . FREE TR-cATMENT. BIONUTRINE FOR THE HAIR. Restores gray or faded hair to its natural color, produces new growth on bald heads, re- stores lost eyebrows. Whoever uses BIONU- TRINE once will forever after eschew all other preparitions for the hair. One week's treat- ment given FREE at 1201 Bush st. § p. m.-dally. S fom 1 to 0P OOOREEREOCRCOOCCOORO 0 boogcaoo oo a Fbopooceodoo = Do cooc¥ocoocs Qoo ool of-R-Xot Wty C0E BT OOR O SO aEGmREL]