The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 23, 1899, Page 24

the O rd for the 1 hil It is literally d for a dear nd tellane, who Is to summer 3 Paris s ch all for feeding ely garden which the French think it is to copy for a few months in tha lined with which »s throug! The waist is the same with and of plain white silk down the e fro »unce of lace is set upon pink velvet, and at the bow stock of a very neat dress is a sm the Cert 1try mal s of the shirt watst 1s stock with stole g more popular. hese are of wide wh itched along the entira n the - polnts b much s tied in a bow with the & ends that hang t iis same becom stol colors, and : eckstrip to & W not ver two es: the ends are four or flve inches wide. a groen is-the color selected by the mountat U huntre: bent upon sect g follage for e decorati her rooms, wore upo: her quest a skirt at came scarcely the shoe tops. as heavily faced with SO S D OO A Remember, That— other who would thy in to godilness, there contact with Have onally dirty that {s wholesome. d frequently, insist meals with immaculate »etween meals have hey are free to run : will. Sunday Call— s v paper has fought the wear- 1 AtS theaters. But t } ave ently appeared v r, where the ago the mat 1 a p preacher ne of high eclaring that is cruelly ob- mized by har these she ob- obility is in- nward, if Measles bit sound. e a vicious b nobility of orm cannot hion Notes— r shirtwalst b material used. aze for white, favor of of the m fac wash me Tow of inish, another fad new thing is that paper are consid- of French soclety than coronets and they are now dub- it to wise Americans « sister republic. Modes and Styles— £t1l, Madaroe La Mode busies hermeif issuing edicts for and against. Here Is a late bulistin which states that direct- oire hats are it to be worn by youth and beauty only. Fresh, lovely faces alon fain an «dded charm benwath their brima, grandmotberly air and tied-up strings are both plcturesque and fascinating. But t one paxs sweet two a-t ¥, then re of the tricks they will play in add- 1 five or six years at a jump, o ] coute-of-2iras, Wil bing demodes, A h is suffictent from g o T, H BY TriE. THE SA FRANCISCO CALL NDAY JULY 23, 1899 e &) 10N Dent Grant’s Trousseau Is he same duck of which it was made. The ack the skir dt,” is worn eyes and trimmed which stands ag- ry long qu sively upright. ile there are no positively new mate- rials since my last writing ou, there are new things to be worn with summer for instance, as the stole, ie out of the same t. This Is ex- such ribéd, n alre material the shirt wi tremely pretty. There is also t..& sunbonnet, which is this geason @ reality. Over a dozen of these r the sum- have been sent to Newport S O on, to match the outing dresses. nbonnet is intended more for the n game, for tennis, for the ik, than for the soberer games of golf 1 water sports. The bonnet 2 soft crown set high upon the Goose pattern, making a peak at t 1t also has a double frill around the f though the headpiece sets close arou the forehead. mer s Another extremely prefty accessory to the summer gown is the braided trim- ming, which can be purc d by the braid sewed or look like coarse yard. It is made of fine woven in patterns that lace. It is very durable and come 1 colors. It is used for yokes, for flounces and speclally for setting in the side the skirt like a panel. This Is the b of summer trimmings and can be uttlized in_many even to hat mi The qu sheernes: There would seem to be ity. Either the goods S 'to need no lining, T L e o o e e e e S think sometimes I like the girt Who oan bait a hook with an ugly worm 800 him squirm— pearl/ EXOXPEPAOASE PV XS XORORSH ¥ O0896060 i-i-i-i--i- -~ 09000 08 OW TO AVOID HYGEIA. This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hygiene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects the questions will - be cheerfully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Ad- e unhappy pos- 1« nearly always a of admiration when some thing wornen It i The woman nt she adores the J* and always has, will be prostrated to-morrow at the of the first white hair among one onder why old age |8 8o sad a womankind, and by them go 1t should not be, It I8 a per- nmunications to Mme. Hygeia, Sunday Call. fectly natural transition, and every age hos w beauty of its own. 16 does not so soon if one thinks youth mean that by keeping fresh and onergetic and those things that interest youthful folk about one, m 1 unconsclously . and age Is thus outh In th the reflected in the bod kept at bay, The precious ones of the earth are the dear, old, loving gouls who have fought life's battle successfully, every ling in eir faces, every whité ' hair “in their heads, telling of some sucrifice accom- plished or umselfish end attained, and vet the radiant, robust young maiden seldom HAnd pull up a fish and OXPEPAPHDROK B % BRPRDXOARDXDK PXDHDXOAOKDAOXOXOKIRDLO RO XA e e e 2 i H 504 ORPARPKDN & % PHOHIAOAPAOK ¥PXOXOADKDHOHPX T A RIHOROHSHP HOKOOHIAPAIA X ORI HOOHOH WK P HPHDH PN DK TFIT OF 1 wvile Styles. 4 or heavy . or they a ansparent. The tr t goods of this ¥ not the last goods display that the but ing, like . those Paris, The cov lace as T it cilin cobweb. The w: net <o thin that twith: i s brought The trousseau talked and the orde to a Bc )ssip of the Ameri- ra_of pearls and diamonds erful thing as was never seen Ohree Summer Ffaids. ing sprite 2ho sits on a boat and dan- glos her feot And isn’t afrald a wave to meet— me quite. thinks of this, but as she gazes upon the wrinkles and the thin, faded locks, she inwardly prays that she may be spared from ever belng so afflicted. What is the use of worrying over {t? We carnot very well instruct old Grandpa. Time, S0 we might as well accept grace- fully ‘what he's pleased to dole out. Think of the dear old lady, with soft, stivery locks, gentle and sweet-faced, who, after the varied and trying experiences o! existence, while patlently awaiting the end, is devoting herself with loving up selfishness to her children and her chil- dren’s children, with never a thought of her own pleasure. Then let your fancy roam to the artifi- cial creature, with the penciled brows and she of the dark and wavy false ho vainly fancles she {8 fooling the world and all who dwell therein by mesquerading in colors other than her own. (W Which picture do you find the more al- uring? There Is really nothing more grotesque than the futlle, effort some women make ape youth affer it has departed. So let s raige our voices to high heaven aud ¥ ihat none of us shall ever become so ded. dear me! we started out to discuss gray hafr, didn’t we? Gray hair {s not always the result of years, for frequently we see a youthful ce framed in silvery threads. /In such ises the prematurely gray hair s usu- Iy an inheritance, although it may be iused by dissipation.or Ul health, anx- iety or too intense an application of the mind. Anything that disturbs the brain or affects the nervous system will cause the halr to become dull and lifeless and white. The faflure of the hair pigment {s near- aiways the cause of the change in color, Zach liitle hair shaft contains, besides an oily substance which is necessary for its But when I think of the bath-| And now I behold the Chau-| Ghree maids in one, one maid taugua maid, | With sweet, firm lip and earnest eyes i That see the world with a learned surprise, l A girl like that Is a summer A girl like that has captured HAnd I love her true, I am So I bid thee all a bright afraid/ | * DROXOXDHOLDIXOXDLORBROKOXOKOL ROROXOXO XD %D % & %Ok Oxxnox ol B e e i wab L L B B RS R R SRR iy 1 1 1 L] nourishment, a certain amount of mineral ingredients. "The failure of one of these minerals will cause the hair to lose its color. Very fair hair contains magnesia; chest- nut and brown hair is rich in sulphur, and in very dark and black hair iron predom- inates. The supply of iron pigment usu- aiy falls first, and for that reason black or dark bair is wont to turn gray earlier than any other. # Sometimes, with a view to restoring the color to prematurely whitened hair, iron or sulphur is taken internally. As to the merit of this treatment I cannot speak positively, but of one thing I am quite certain—no outward application will im- part a permanent color to the hair. It stands to reason that this cannot be so, for the natural coloring matter of the hair is inclosed within mirute tubes overlald by imperceptible scales, and this colorin matter can be thrown from the roots o the hair through these tubes only by a physical process. 8o beware of all so-called hair restora- tives. Shun them as you would a grip microbe. They are dyes, pure and sim- ple. They are unclean and often danger- ous. The only sensible thing to do Is to take the gray bairs in hand when they first make thelr appearnee. Not literally in_hand, for you know the old saying. “For every whkite halr pulled ten wiil come to its funeral,” but after the first ones have begun to peer out from among the glossy locks start right in and follow the rules of sensible, practical hygiene, and you will be.able to retard the others in_their mad opslaught. Gray halr can be avolded to a certain extent if taken in time. The health must be well guarded. Get out doors and ex- ercise; rest as much as you possibly can; eat nourishing foods, and see to it that the scalp and halr, as well as the body, are kept in a state of absolute cleanliness. Ot ok 2 e e S R R R Ry T 1 T 1 HE WOMAN OF FASHION the IMost Talked About Thing in Paris. Some of Her Lovely Silk Gowns and Their S zene family before. Miss mored, is to bring an im- wer to her Prince. Surely he will 2 to buy silk s for her for to come, for the trousseau or- been placed with one house s tw beautiful silk fitting, with sheath skirt, v trimmeéd bodices, many of the Cantac tu. They are in all the ades with three of the old avy blue, an olive brown cd pearl gray. E are required this season 1t the coutourieres have graclously ,vided for the emergency. They supply seamles ready to be sewed d. It comes all in one piece < has only to sew it up he sides to form a Hap ut it on the band, when to_wear. These and to found ready ed in the shops and you 1 of fashion purchasing a dozen . quickly made at home ress, who can make six or :re is only one k and a band—no binding, n about the h: ap fitting, no anxiety *OHOXORGXNOXOXONH “ in three, Whichever I see I fancy thee. Which I like bost I cannot say, 0090 ® ii-i-i-i-ii-ii i OO DO SAPAOHPOKOKOXDO FOROX XD 2o X good-day. Another excellent preventive is keeping the hair clipped or singed. To do this properly the hair should be rolled in amall twists and rubbed up the wrong way, so that all the tiny ends will bristle out. Then singe every split end. The halr splits at the ends because of insufficient nourishment at the roots, and the singe- ing takes away the dead part and invig- orates that which is thriving. Do this every month, following with a shampoo. A disease of the scalp will induce white hair quicker than old age. The scalp must be kept perfectly clean and free from dandruff. Sunning and airing the hair are of benefit also, and the following shampoo will be found delightful: Beat the whites of four eggs to a froth. Apply to the hair, a little at a time, until the scalp well saturated. Then rub gent with the finger tips. Pour some dissolved castile soap over the head and rub _until the scalp is free of dust and dandruff. Rinse in several clear waters. Dry with warm towels and sit In the sun- light for twenty minutes, ‘0 keep hair that is already white from becoming vellow, wash it often with cas- tile soap and rinse in clear water in which are a few drops of bluing. This is said to keep the hair a beautiful silvery white. Curling tongs should never be used on white hair, as they will discolor it. -~ Answers to Correspondents. FAITH—Red noses usuaily accompany cold feet, bad circulation or impure blood. Regular dlet and exerclse are very neces- sary. Avold highly spiced viands and egtimulating foods, and limit the dlet to simple, nourishing dishes. Take frequent hot foot baths and apply at night a paste made of powdered refined chalk and rose- water. You'll look like & clown in a cir- [ cus and burglars will drop dead when they see you, but don’t yougcare. IUs a 0od cause and worth while. Tell your ftlena the first thing to do with her trou- ble is to find out what causes it and remedy that. It usually comes from one of two causes—a disordered digestion or teeth that are in need of attention If, however, neither one of these is the seat of the trouble, the following wasl will remedy the troubie: Alcohol, 185 grams; cinnamon, 12 grams; ginger, 2 grams; €s sence of peppermint, 4 gram: cloves, gram. Mix and ieave in infusion for _two Keeks in a tightly covered vessel. Then filter through a covered funnel and bot- Add one teaspoonful to a glass of .r and rinse the mouth. S CALIFORNIA—To grow farther down make your n your tr d forehead, clip the little fine hairs about the face and brush it aiwaye W 11 down upon the forehead—never back. The lit- tle pimples under the skin e the result of ‘congested pores. They should be Dicked out with a fine needle, -and tollet vinegar or cold cream applied at once. If treated properly they will never re- turn. Use this lotion for the little moles that look Jike large frec...es: Sulphur, one-half dram; borax,’ on rth dramj glycerine, one-fourth ounce; spirits of aphor, one-fourth ounce; water, seven c and one half oul benzoin, one-half ¢ Dorax and glycerine to a fipe ounces; simple tincture of ram. Rub the sulphur, i ste, then add gradually the water and finally the spirits’ of camphor and the benzoin. hake well before using. ' Apply to the face rv night with a bit of ‘absorbent cot- E‘&)’l“\fl"‘vi COUSIN MARY—You do not tell me just what portions of the body ish to develop, so it ‘ou Uit for me to outlie the prope massage nece ATY. As to the E e Veloping cream it really makes but little difference so far as results are coneerned whether you use lanolin, cocoanut oil or neatsfoot oil. Of course, I would not ad- Vise any one of the three for the face, but for the neck aud bust they are all right. To develop the latter pour a little of the oil in the hand and then with the palm rub around and around up. ‘ihe fassage must be gentle, as the glands are Very sensitive. If this reply is not per- fectly satisfactory, as [ fear it is not, please write to me again and state more Plainly just what it is you wish to know. VESTA—Lemon juice with a little borax is about the t remedy added—15 grains to the ounce Droper proportion—is the simple Bor freckles. While using this ra pr cautions 1aust be taken in the way of pro- fecting the skin when about to expose it o wind or sunlight. The lemon juice will help the sallownes: gust nothing for thc Except pienty of e open’ air Shi‘Perhaps a good iron tontc. The lem Suice will also whiten the hands, and if Nietis followed by the applicition of a #ood cold cream they will become soft as Bl Tt you prefer something that is not Sreasy you will find the following lotion §elientrul, It is immediately apsorbed {nto the skin and leaves not & trace: Take 30 grains of gum tragac . soak in 7 Finces of Tosewater for two days; strain {hrough muslin and add Y% Elycerine and alcohol, previously mixed. §1e proportions that you mention strike me as very good, with the exception per- Baps of the bust measurement, which, to be symmetrical with the other measure- ments, might easily be increased a couple of inches. I fear the only remedy for a thin face is a general increase of flesh. It would take at least & column of space to ¥ive you a regular course of gymnastics Forheaith and beauty. I haven't the space torday, but watch the Sunday Call. There will soon be a special talk on that sub- ect. jMR:L JAMES, Fruitvale—I am not at all sure of your signature, so have added the “Fruitvale,” hoping in that way you may be able to identify yourself. You asked about bay rum and acetate of iron for the hair. I have spent nearly an hour looking through my very large collection of formulas, but did not find one contain- fng the last mentioned ingredient. So am unable to give you the recipe. Am sor) but possibly your drugglist can give you the proportions. VIOLET—I am not the least bit tired of you. On the contrary, I am very happy that this department has been a source of comfort and pleasure to you, and sincerely hope that you will write as often as you feel inclined. The formula that you in- close 1s all right. That is, it cannot pos- Sibly injure your skin, aithough I have my doubts about it being such a success as a wrinkle eradicator. It may benefit the flabby condition of the skin. Suppose you try it a while and see. CARO M.—A correspondent has just given me a little hint which I am more than happy to pass along to you. She says it was given her by a noted beauty specialist, and that it is pnr!lculsrlg- e:ii- cacious In the treatment of blackheads. Nice of her, wasn't it? It {s to use com- mon table salt when washing the face. Merely fill the hand with sait, dampen with water and with it scour the face and neck until they are all in a glow. It may irritate the sKin a bit at first, but never mind—keep it up. The salt acts as a stimulant to the pores of the skin and will assist them in throwing off the waste matter that clogs them. [ have not a doubt in the world that this is a very ex. cellent thing. Suppose you try it on thosa -rsistent little black specks before you v the more severe method? Let me know ho ccessful you are. FLOR: E _M.—Please read foregoing letter to Caro M. on the subject of black- heads. Letter to Falth will answer your anestion about the red nese. Health and animation are the best eye-brighteners I know of. At any.rate they are the only ;}S:égs I care to recommend for that pur- VERA—If you will massage for t fiftcen minutes every night with :211?15 gutt! of lanolin, cocoanut ofl and cocoa butter melted together you will in the ceurse of seven or eight weeks see a de- clded difference In the size of vour bust To increase the weight, first of ‘all get all Go to bed hossible mo- s that are the rest that you possibly can. early and sleep until the I ment. Choose only those nourishing and fattening, such cream potatoes, custards, eggs, milk, rice, br and butter, game, beef, lamb or mutton. Sweet wine and malt are excellent bev- figs and date Fruit, especially erages. will help. Avoid fresh bread, spiced, and salty foods. Half an hour before each k oil 1 meal take a spoonful of pure oliv Iwo or three spoonfuls of good Burgund: Have all the outdoor life possible onl let your exercise be moderate. Follow th instructions faithfully and T will guarantee that inside of a few mont vou will have got back the fifteen pounc ihe loss of which you are bemoaning. BUD M. S.—Please see answer to Faith Glycerin does not agree with all skins. 1f, however, in combination with the lem- on juice, it acts so well with your skin, vou can use it with perfect safety, al- though I should not advise your continu- ing its use for too long a time. LILLA—A very excellent face powder, perfectly pure, is made after the follow- g formula: Two and one-half ounces of ‘one anad one-fourth ounces of rice flour taleum; two and one-half ounces of the best zinc oxide; one drop each af oils of bergamot, ylang-ylang and - neroli. Have vour druggist prepare this for you, as powders are very troublesome to mix Without the proper appliances. If a fl tint is desired add a very little powdered carmine. Lemon juice a to the face and followed by a sm of good cold cream is as good as any- thing for removing tan. To get rid of the Moles use acetic acid. Make one applica- tion each night for three nights. 'Then dease using the acid, A crust will form Which in the course of a couple of weeks Yiill drop off, taking the mole with it. Use The end of 2 wooden toothplck in making the application, and care must be taken not te touch with the acid a of the surrounding white skin, else scar -will Tesult. Cold sores can be cured usually by constant applications of rosewater, to Wwhich a few drops of camphor have been added. paste made 6f powdered quinine ‘spirits of camphor Is also good for s purpose. ¥ —The skin food is merely to be mly but gently into the skin. hould always be thoroughly before each application, except fine D! washed r when the cream ig used instead of a facl and then it should all be w with a bit of old, soft, white flar .~ Keep the hands out of warm water much as possible if the veins are large. The pure oil of sweet almonds is obtained direct from the almonds by pressure; the ofl made of peachstones is a poor and un- de: ble imitation. CELESTE—Bleaches which remove the cuticle entir are often very danger- ous. The main ingredient is corrosive sublimate, which s a deadly poison. strong an acid as any pply to the face. A makes it more effec- whitening. 1f you to the little flat, ots, also smear on cold will in tim take them away, hite spots on the nails are Lemon juice is a one should little borax tive ever added as_borax is very Iy it The tiny y ually caused by defective circulation, No external remedy will remoye them. Your last surmise is correct. How wise you are! GOLDENLOCKS—The little pins to keeg scolding locks in place can be purchase: at any of the regular snops downtown. Try this tonic for your hair: Tincture of cantharides, four drams: glycerin, four ounces; bayrum,eleven and a half ounces, Rub into the scalp every night, previously brushing the hair well. Both the weather and one's physical condition affect the complexion, so_do not marvel if some days you look “flve years older.” The suiphur lotion, which is for coarse, open Pores, 18 made of one dram of preclpi- tated sulphur, four drams of ether and three and & half ounces of alcohol. Shake well before using and apply as a wash. ————————— Most of the fruit consumed Queen’s household is grown in the Roval gardens at Windsor. Some statis- tics published not long since show that fhe Queen’s gardens supply in one year no fewer than 20,000 dessert apples, besides 400 bushels of eating apples of a com- moner kind. The grapes produced in one season weigh two tons and a half, the strawberries a ton and a quarter, the red and white currants a ton, and the cherrles half a ton. Of the rarer fruits about 250 pineapples, 400 melons and between v and 7000 peaches are gathered each year. in the ERFLUOUS HAIR Io removed by DR and MRS SUP S A. W RSE, Donohoe building, 1170 Market st., cor. Taylor, Tooms 25-28, with the electric needls, without pain or scar. Moles, warts, wrinkles, blackheads, freckles, birth- marks, etc., also removed. Per- manency guaranteed. Hours, 1 to 4 p. m. WRINKLES Removed and face rejuvenated by my newly discovered electrical process for §50 to $200. Ses what the world’s grearest serpentine dancer, LOIE FULLER, says about the skin food and tissue builder, : BRAHMAN TOILET CREAM. ] certainly can recommend your delighttul 23 one of the best thin - pose I have ever used.” a5 o o Autograph letter can he seen at office of A. \V. TRAVERSE, M. D. FOR THE HAIR One “week's treatment . free. Bvery mew Jurchaser of a bottle of Blonntrine, the wonderful new halr preparation, will re geive one week's treatment free. Bionntrine re- Stores gray cr faded hair to its natural color. Blonntrine produces a new growth of hair_on bald heads and restores lost eyebrows. For T EAAPPY to 1201 Bush st Trom 1 to & FREE