The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 11, 1899, Page 29

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 11 27 Cultivate a Sweet 6xpross1bn for .Z?eamy, Jays Wme. Hygeta beauty of a face, a pity that women do ivate this more assidu- to do with th t seen isly, for it's lary a matter of cultivation, I assure you. r T bility will redeem © of almost hopeless irregu- f feature. gh a woman pc the clas- of a Greek goddess a beauty with a mouth that wom t we tur study case of superfluous hair that has been destroyed by the use of ammonia, but [ have it upon ex(‘r‘\lnm\ mn“nrlu' that if used persistentiy it will finally deaden the growth, I can tell you ef no way of lightening the hair save to bleach it, and if you experiment with anvihing of this gort yourself the result is liable {o be dire dreadful, and besides, as the hair out it will be the natural color a roots will have to be touched up fic time to time. Dor't do it. You wi 1 terrible nuisance, and it is alme 1 not to look as well as the shade nature provided. Corn starch is per- v harmles 2 IS8 V101 er cream vou would Cleanse y face thoroug r aid castile soap ar water dry anc with the fingers e skin. Then with avery ige of g and grow the as ! ibbing ves the mind. worries a mis- g bonnet or a lay you out with brace up and ings can’t alway as most sensible you are a_bit I the st of it, heart st the ok pleasan s the even if you don’t feel n half the bat- e is the worst pretty face are catch- have blessings sending up ew of us re Our troubles almighty hi world so could be 3 remembering bear it in mind also that fretting and worryl ssing bridges will hasten the com- ] crow'’s feet, which all the mas- rage and laying on of cold cream in the world will then be powerless to chase e i And Wi Doesn’t 1t seem foolish, when you stop i think, that half the fretting that we indulge 1 anyway. is inspired by our fmaginations over things that we fear pen and which, as a matter of er see the light of day? after all, is at the root of and to a certain ®x- act, ne The mind most physical ils, ) tent the ain of eternal youth is with- oursely Cheerfulness and a merry 1 do more than medicines toward ving the face and retarding the h of those horrors of the whole ted race known as wrinkles. o 5n) e r the benefit of the many who have the formula for cucumber milk t it again to-day where all may Cucumber IMilk. 2 ounces 10 ounce: 0il of sweet almond Fresh cucumber juice Powdered white castile soap, % ounce. Essence of cucumbe ounces. Simple tincture of benzoin, 38 drops. 1y the ordinary cucumbers now sold in the shops. Cut up in small pleces, neither peeling nor removing the seeds, and pour on just enough wafer to start em to cooking. When cooked soft and m shy, strain through a piece of muslin. The essence you can make yourself by taking one and a balf ounces of alcohol and one and a half ounces of the boiled cucumber juic Add to this vour castile soap, and let it stand until the soap has entirely dissolved. Then put in the cu- imber juice. Shake well, so that all are horoughly mixed. Then'add the ofl of sweet almonds and the benzoin, stirring for some time. Put in a bottle and be sure and shake well before using, Apply it at night. Let it dry on the skin, rinsing away in tepid water the following morning. This is unsurpassed as a face bleach and is perfectly harmles: SRR Answers to Correspondents. MAYFLOWER—ASs the growth of hair )‘ n your face is so very fine I think I should use a little peroxide of hydrogen on it. Apply with a bit of absorbent cot- ton or a small sponge. After a few appli- cations the hairs will be so light in color @s to be scarcely noticeable. I do not beppen to have personal knowledge of a tions on your face tell a straight story of unwise eating, and all the blood tonies in the world will do you no_good until y come into an understanding of co: diet. Don’t use hot water on your face, and never use any soap but the purest imported castile. 1 have given directior many times since your letter was writ about removing moles. You must seen them. is, I am sure, 3 applica ase. You must look to your diet if yor would have a skin of unblemished loveli- ur faith to fruit and vege- brolled meats. Avoid and sweets, also rich and greasy Keep your face thoroughl an with the complexion brush, use the orange flower skin food reli ¥y every nig] y The pumice stone will remove the miniature mustache only tem- fmrm Iy, and if commenced will have to be continued for all time. Why not bleach it with the peroxid f hydrogen? hair has probably been injured by too hot an fron.” Suppose vou give it rest from the crimping iron for a fey months. Be sure that all the split ends e kept clipped, brush it carefully each day and shampoo it every two or three weeks with the yolks of two eggs beaten 1o a froth and added to an ounce of rose- mary spirits and one pint of warm water. Ri arefully in several waters. Wind- ing air around the little curling kid will wave it prettily without in any w: injuring it. Possibly you have scrubbed your face too much and too hard. Any treatment that irritates the skin will do it more m than good. There is no need of using both the cucumber cold cream and the skin food, as they each answer the same purpose. In using (he lemon juice apply it to the skin, and after it has dried on use the skin food. A littls peroxide of hydrogen will whiten the neck nicely. Tt will also benefit the eruptions on the back and arms. Massaging fhe neck each night with lanolin will add to its plumpne ABIGAIL—My dear little girl, you need not have been in such a flurry because of my discovery. Instead of thinking you a bad little girl, as vou fear, I am thinking that you must be the nicest kind of a little girl. T hope that yvou will write to me often and tell me just as many of your little worries as you feel inclined. I'm everybody's policeman, you know. I cannot ‘understand why, if your cold cream was made according to directions and of pure materfals, it should have caused your face to look dark and un- cleanly the next day. There must have been something wrong about it. Yes, you can add a few drops of benzoin to ‘the cream very nicely. By thick, sweet cream I mean such_as is used on the table for coffee, etc. I think the cold cream will be better for your skin, unless you -find that you cannot use it at all, in which case you might try the sweet cream. You need have no fear in using the baking powder and the other powder that I sug- gested for the perspiring hands. NELL—I should prefer not to recom- mend any such wash as you wish. Am sorry, but such experiments are rarely ever successful. Bage tea will have a slightly darkening effect u‘pnn the hair. By trying it on a sample of halr you can sce for yourself just what shade it will glve, GEO. D.—Believe me, T am more than sorry not to have been able to send you a personal reply, as you asked, but were I to grant all such requests the days would not be long enough for me to accomplish the one-half of all that I have to do. The only way to get rid of the blackheads is to go after them every night with a complexion brush of good firm bristles, tepid water and castile soap. If the blackheads are very bad add a Ifttle alcohol to the water. Be sure and follow the scrubbing with a smearing of cold cream. An occaslonal steaming will also hasten’ the departure of the little pesta. If this treatment does not help you, write to me again and I“will give you the formula for a liquid soap that is_sometimes eflicaclous. MRB. J. W.—Never use vasellne on your face uniess you wish to raise a fine crop of whiskers. The orange flower skin food is all right and the best thing you can use for the wrinkles. You will find the cucumber milk, formula for which is given at the end of to-day’s Beauty Talk. splendld as a face bleach. The following tonic will stop your halr from falling: Torty-elght grains resorcin; one-fourth ounce glycerin, and alcohol enough to fill a two-ounce bottle, This lhoul\g be ap- ooeoeeooeeoooeooog . POSES by Gracle Plaisted, © i Gharlette Bechwith, Ed : > Stevens, of the Tivoli. : & PHOTOS by Thors: @ > GOWNS by Magnin, 4 Z HAMMOCK from the Em-: : porium. : PPPPPPOPIPPIPIPPIOIPPIDPS If a few minutes each day are devoted to the care of the nails not allowing the skin at the base of the nail to adhere, but keeping 1t carefully pushed back {hers will be no trouble with hangnalls, The SUrMMER VERANDA “DON’TS.” Bernhard? “Shaw! Sowns’’ Hre the Latest With Dame Fashion HAWL gowns made “a la Bern- hardt” are the very latest. A gown made strictly a la Bern- hardt would not be made at all, but simply pinned together, for Bernhardt despises needle and thread, chooslng rather to pin and drapa her gowns to suit her fleeting but ever artistic fancy. Of course the “shawl” gowns are mada, only they are made so deftly that they look just as though they were draped i\ll(‘d ](lr) the scalp every night, rubbing it n well. GLADYS WALLAS—Try lotion on the red and Three drops of arbolic ounces of rosewater. T this healing irritated nose: acid to four Is is excellent for a red nose that is caused by inflam- mation of the skin. Touch the center of each wart lightly with a lunar caustic pencil once a day, being very careful not to get the C on any other part of the skin. arts will turn black and gradu; DUF The complexion brush that T recommend is made of firm white bristles. I it to any other. It is much more searching than the rubber brush and erefore more cleansing. There s only wholesome way of re ducing flesh and that is by rigid dieting and proper exercise. Avoid fattening and farinaceous fooc ich as rice, potatoes, turnips and bee Drink plenty of lem- onac mineral waters; ‘shun sweet P more than seven hours ¢ every spare moment. Eat v of butter, d k little coffee and no Y—The hair tonic given to Mrs. J. W, will help I am sure. Thuching th 3 1 castor oil will ir i salt is also goc yme from various 1 sign of a di 1y 1ses, hey a rdered digestio - bathing them in a little diluted lis terine. 1 know nothing of either of the vou mention. I do not care for medics 9 and prefer the pure White cas any other for the face. TRIALS—It is much wiser not to meddle with any sort of blemish in the near neighborhood of the cye. Frequently little red lumps like sties appear on the eye- lid. These consist of a small sac filled with a gelatinous substance. The only cure for them is to have them cut and the contents of the sac removed. Bathing the eves with boracic acid may rolieve ti redness of the lids. The bagginess ma come from weakness ct the eves, but it is more often a sign of -internal’ trouble, usually the kidneys. - Red hands are some- times “caus, tight sleeves or a too snugly laced corset. The best way to whiten them is to use lemon juice, apply- ing cold cream as soon as the julce is dry. soaps that ed 6909000000066 S 3 > ® @@6“*@@@@@@@@@@@’9@@@@’3‘@@@@@5‘@@@@@@@@@@ o000000Q NE winter, long ago, I boarded with a little woman—I mean liter- erally little—who was one of the most perfect housekeepers I ever knew. Her house was small, so there was nothing to prevent her “going. through it” every day. Her husband was an invalid, but a more shining invalid one could never find. Such dinners as we had; such suppers as were served to us day after day; such breakfasts as we got up to. I wonder that any of us survived to tell the tale. She washed, {roned and scrubbed every Monday; she churned, worked butter and baked every Tuesday; she worked over butter, scruoved and darned every Wednesday; she went eight miles to town every Thursday; on Friday everything underwent a general cleaning up, and she churned again; Saturday there was baking and getting ready for Sunday, and Sunday there was the in- evitable ‘‘company’” to eat and praise, and Monday it all began over n. Besides all this, she milked four cows, raised 200 or 300 chickens each year, did the family sewing, and could boast that ‘“‘each of her two daughters had sixteen quilts apiece, all ready for the bed.” She could neither read nor write; her daughters followed closely in her_ foot- steps. A better woman never lived, and even in her matter-of-fact life there was a longing for more beautiful things. It $ee e best way to reduce the size of your walst is by a general reducing of flesh. You weigh about twenty-five pounds more than you ought to weigh for your height. Mechanical massage might help you. V. M. BERRI—I should call thé sample of hair inclosed in your letter a ve pretty shade of brown. The halr tonic suggested to Mrs. J. W. will cure dan- dr I have never heard of the oil you speak of, nor of there being a flower pecu- to each month. There are birth such as the garnet for January, st for February, e but I 3 d of )SSAMONDE—It that the mole birth flower. ally is very singu- should have returned. Are they hereditary, do you think? That 1t for it or, perhaps, you only to affect the s ould be me a stamped a I will send you send pe and one who unders: this sort of 8 who will remove them for vou se that they wiil not return and will not 1 e a scar. Hurrah for the orange flow- er skin food! I am more tkan pl d. Do J.—Resorein s an_antiseptic as > ingredient i tonics. Druggists usually keey read letter to Anxious . for informa- tion out reducing fl. Lanolin and cocoanut oil are both hair producers in their pure state, but there is such a 1 h in the skin food that I little danger of its causing on the face. However, if there is an excessive tendency to a downy growth I would advise a cream that con- tains neither of these Ingredients. DISCONTEN 1 5D—Does the name that you have signed tell the story of those bothersome wrinkles, I wonder? If so, the Beauty Talk to-day will perhaps help vou. Be cheerful, and make up your mind that if things haven't come your way rou’ll just hustle around and make them. hen perhaps massage with a l{tt1® of the ange flower skin food will help the good k along. Please read reply to Gladys las. ZELLA R.—As long as ordinary meas- ures do not relieve you of the blackhead suppose you try the following lotion: One~ half pint rosewater, one-half pint orange CAURCR R R R R R R RO quantity of ¢ think there i hair to grow o v STORY OF ONE WOMAN'S LIFE. bloomed In her love for flowers, of which she always had an abundance l.'l‘OwInF in her garden, and where in caring for them she could combine pleasure with duty. Her feet long since ceased to keep time to the clock; she sleeps sweetly. She went away not an old woman, but when she should have reaped the harvest for which she had sown. The husband of her youth found time, during his en- forced quiet, before he left her, to show to her some of the long-suppressed and smothered feelings of his heart life. But hard work, and that friend who some time will claim us all, carried away even his brave spirit, and the little wife, with shoulders bent just a little more, re- celved his load and attempted to strug- gle on with it alone. Oh, if there had only been a “friend at court” who could have said to her in the kindest manner: “You are only a woman; you cannot do the work of man and beast—and live. It is not living merely to exist; don’t cook, bake and scrub so much. We can live without ple and cake every meal; we don't need chicken_and dumplings three times a week. If blankets are out of the ques- tion for bed covering, make light-weight comforts of pretty calic: The work is small compared with quilt making, and there would be more warmth in ten such comforts than in the thirty- two solid quilts piled high upon a chair in one corner of the bedroom; not a mon- ument of beauty, warmth water, add drop by drop, stirring all the while; one-half ou: simple tincture of benzoin, six minims tincture of myrrh and a few drops of glycerin. Merely sponge the surface lightly with the lotion. It seems to clear the pores of the dusty particles, Cease using the other lotion for a while. Try the following cold cream: ounce; spermaceti, 1% ounces: oil of sweet almonds, 13% ounces rosewater, % ounce; 1 drop attar of roses, MMA-1 think what your skin needs White wax, % ematic massage for a while at the of a competent m use. When in is in the condition you describe somplish but little massaging he remedy you are now using uently recommended for flabby fre You can best tell by using it for a skin. while whether, it will benefit you or not. I doubt if the elder flower water and cu- cumber juice would have much effect in X T case. 1 showld advise the in food in your case by T (or si it F. F. M.7)—The \round your eyes may be caused by internal disorder; they may come from weukness of the eves, from sitting up late at night or from trying the eyes by reading or studying in a dim or uncertain ght Bathing the eves in witch-hazel _and water will most al S trouble unless it comes from within. If hair_is a light brown the following <h will bring out the golden tints: One ounce salts of tartar, one quart of wa and the juice of three lemons. Apply a Ccupful to the hair and scalp just before the shampoo. The formulas given in this department can be put up by a druggist, although, of course, they can be prepared more economically at home, Where the constitution is strong enough to stand it T think the cold shower bath is invig- orating and bencficial. I should hesitate fo give it to a baby under any circum- stances. That wee man of yours must be a sturdy voungster if he can and it. Be sure that it does not shock h tem. STRA Here is_the formula for the orange flower skin food: Spermaceti, one-half ounce; white wax, one-half sweet almond oil, one ounce; lano- lin, one ounce; cocoanut oil, one ounce; tincture of benz ten drops; orange flower water, one ounce. RO R R R R A R R R R R 2 ounce; @ @ ® @ PS R R R R R R R R but a pathetic witness to the nervous, ceaseless energy of an unnourished and overburdened woman. The fingers that pleced the intricate pattern and set the dainty stitches so closely together were knotted and tremulous with toil; the hands that folded them so carefully and unfolded them so proudly for brief in- spection were brown and hardened from constant contact with outdoor work. If only her beauty-loving soul could have learned to know itself; to have expended its hungry energy upon books, pictures, something for the eye to see and the brain to feel while the hands were folded idly in her lap! If that energy had been turned upon the soil that needed it so badly—upon her children, who inhabited the house and farm with her—what a har- vest she might have reaped! There is so much beauty and loveli- ness in our lives, as we can live them on the farm, if we only find them. The beauty of comradeship, of heart-to-heart association, freedom from conventionali- ties, the hearty, healthy outdoor life and closely allied Interest with nature, which is our greatest teacher and friend. If the men and women only have time to know! There lies the greatest drawback to perfectly appointed lives and homes in the country; the lack in our belief of that God-given commodity—time. And until we realize that time is eternity we will always be skimping along trying to live, and all that the word implies, without time.—Ladies’ Home Journal. and caught here and thers to keep them together. There {8 & perfect rage for thess “shawl” gowns, sald the girl who has Just returned from Paris. Then she took two or three out of her trunk amd showe=d them to me. They brought forth an *“‘ah’” of admiration. But if they were good to look upon in the hand they were surpass- ingly beautiful on the figure. The “shawl” gown is just exactly what its name signifies. Not material made in a shawl-like pattern, but a real shawl made into a gown, fringe and all. Scis- sors ars used very sparingly on thess shawls. It is not necessary to cut into them much for the drape effect. They look as though they had been wound around the wearer and yet there is plenty of room to move freely, One gorgeous ‘“‘shawl” gown ‘intended for a house gown was made of a black pe Chinese shawl covered with brii- ly soft embroidered flowers, which the Chinese so artfully execute. Another one, to be used as a dinner as of white, entirely covered with heavy raised white embroidery, the long white silk fringe coming up the front of the rt and then falling away on either S| outlining the bottom of the n. The third cne was a delicate combina- tion of gray and pink, so arranged s to give a princesse effect and sultable for a reception gown. These “shawi” gowns were by far the most novel and beautiful of all the cos. tumes which this devotee of fashion brought with her from Paris. So,'if you are fortunate enough fo pos- sess a_shawl which is large enough for the purpose procure some of Bernhardt's pictures taken in these gowns and have a modiste_who {s an artist copy them for you. They are graceful and artistic without being bizarre. Nor have they tha s‘falling to pieces” effect which one would imagine. A ‘word of warning! Unless you pos- sess a figure almost as slender as that of “Divine Sarah,” though you have the most beautiful shawl of the Indies, do not at- tempt the “shawl gown.” The result will be unhappy. . . HERE are the old ladles?” asked the visitors, watching the mov- ing processfon of gay dry goods as it tripped up Kearny street on Saturday afternoon. Of a truth, our mothers do not array themselves in gowns of darkest hue. ‘‘Age has lost its horrors,” say the dress- makers, ““Youth is being robbed of its own,” say some of the mothers when their modistes insist on ciel blue and primrose. The color scale is no longer graded by age rules and regulations. One of our matrons, who acknowledges the sunny side of 50, ordered a calling gown and left the composition entirely to the modiste. It s typical of the gowns that are now made for the clear-skinned, bright-eyed, white-haired granddame. The gown 1S of pale yellow grenadine, Wwith rows upon rows.of cream lace inser- tion, edged with a bowknot design in mauve and white baby ribbon, which trim the sleeves and yoke. White guipure over black silk forms the under bodice, skirt and sleeves of another costume, while the tunic is of pale ecru nun’s veiling striped with bands of black velvet. Large crystal buttons fasten the bodice, Age and youth are thus amiably clasp- ing hands at the altar of the fripperies of fashion. P Manila hats are the swell thing for morning wear in midsummer. They come in white and colors and are trimmed with dotted white gauze and quills. o e . A pretty fan for summer is made of fancy plaited chiffon, glving almost the effect of feathers. . e e Both bln_gk !fxd white _gukjafletg coats will be worn with cotton, silk, wool and lace gowns this season. They are made of the soft. thin and consequently expensive taffeta, finely tucked and lined with white. Some of them are Eton shape, with or without rounded points at efther side of the front, while others have the scalloped basque finish or are cut in the form of a Russian blouse without much of the real blouse effect. Automobile red, trimmed with cream lace, is a fashionable combination for the Parisian gown. *Xi ey Tolle, which is a new kind of linen very n Paris, makes . hyacinth blue and ecru being the avorite colors. It is made up over a silk foundation and trimmed elaborately with yellow Cluny lace insertions, the linen be- ing cut away underneath to show the silk through. pretty summer . o8 e There are beautiful new wool cloths that are so light that unless the weather is exceedingly warm they may be counted among the seasonable gowns of the sum- mer. These cloths are called pastelle be- cause of their soft, smooth surface. They come in the palest shades of blue, mauve, gray and other tints.” Gowns of these are particularly lovely trimmed with falds and strapping of Ivory satin and appliques of heavy lace. But the fluffier touthes are also applied to these gowns; chiffon chem- isettes and wide, graceful revers of soft cream-tinted lace occurring on_many of them. Exceptionally exquisite little race coats and other wraps are made from the astelle cloths, which somehow look their est with rich white satin linings and trimmings. oo w Brilliantine of the finest, most silky quality is the favored material for bath- ing suits, unless wool is required, and then French bunting and English serge are the best fabrics. Cream-colored brald on white serge or mohair, which forms the collar and belt, is_the favoritg trim- ming, but for the sake of varie lace Yokes are one feature of decoration. Black, blue and white are the popular colors. Ve e Sun-plaited skirts of linen lawn are very good style trimmed the width of a hem from the lower edge with a wide band of cream lace insertion. - . . A_pretty novelty is the feather boa, made of plumes delicately tinted with all the colors of an opal. e It may be an exaggeration to put under the head of wraps the fascinating fichus that are such a feature of the summer costumes, but they have considerable warmth when they are made of sufficlent size, and are really between wrarys and fichus. A very charming one just finished is of white chiffon made on"a lining of white China silk—so thin a silk that it does not interfere with the soft look of the chiffon. Tt is trimmed with ruffles of the chiffon, unlined, and edged with Val- enclennes lace. It is rather in the Marie Antolnette style, and is tied in front in one bow with long ends that fall down on the front of the gown. ————— attempt has been made to com- bine the two favorites, violet and heliotrope, into one color. This new combination is called “violettrope,” and comes in dress goods of the mixef Varfety, and also stationery in the mote tled English bond variety. The two colorg are quite distinctly wraceable in eithep material, and it takes well with the lovers of both shades. In the stationery, the edge of the papee is left In_a plain border similar to the Wedgwood blues. The envelopes have the same narrow border. The short note is now folded lengthwise of the paper and placed in a long, narrow envelope with a fiap at the end. ‘Thcse envelopes are unique, the little border following the shape of the paper in the back in irregu- lar foldings, which are gracefully artistic, In making champagne the grapes are squeezed six times, each pressure making wine of a different quality. — e SUPERFLUOUS HAIR % Is removed by DR. and MRS P A. W. TRAVERSE, Donohos buflding, 1170 Market st., cor. Taylor, rooms 2520, with the electri¢_needle, without pain or scar. Moles, warts, wrinkles, blackheads, = freckles, . birthe marks, etc., also removed. Per- manency gharanteed. Hours, 1 to 4 p. m. WRINKLES Removed and face rejuvenated by my newly discovered elec- trical process for $50 TO_$200.