The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 23, 1899, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 23, 1899. 27 e columns. Ad Write as often as you li e, as Violet Sachet. Mix thorou one week Then if yen- s a thing aking T has bee p. the time - e away with i) o t water in the ot e will Vio Tw let Bath Bags. r : Violet Tooth Powder. on ; oni ounce I iram oil verized Poudre de Violet. Talcum powder, seven and one-half starch, one and one-fourth orris root, one and one- ten dro lid perfume on your hand- Bit on the hands, the d the eyebrows is per- ssi drop on any article that you wear or carry. It is considered very bad_form. A few drops of essence of violet In your face powder and in your cold cream will add to your galaxy of sweet odo You will find in carrying out this scheme that, the res ingly nt is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- anyone desires information on either of these subjects the questions will be cheer- as many questions as you please and sign ss all commzunications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. be intangible but bewilder- Answers to Correspondents, LII we 1 for a remedy flicti muc tem from plenty of fruit's d following th which SOME OF THE REDFERN GOWNS WORN MISS LILLIAN BURKHART. LIE cal 1 oils So the all mor in reme is rich t e th My to consult = ¢ needs a good blood tonic di 1 e ad for pretty s fat fats rst thin; v six- two quart for Wi of the same weight. m ki g tell vi to vour husband 3 sSpecialist. He well If he will take the a good scrubbing warm water and neads will certainly ask af- too nose. re ‘evidence k mineral wate ed in th ammonia, one ender, ‘one dram.’ Mix ounce bottle. Do not it teaspoonful of of warm water, DI- the orange flower last Sund just how lon, 1 ammonia oly. send you hany requests ble to a good for the in the way of growing. o5 eau cture m_ed rosemary you to de cantha- ch of oil of Apply_ to r once or twice a day with a_small sponge. While using this tonic shampoo once a week. The only real cure I know of for blackheads is the use of the complexion brush, warm water and pure castile soap. . Use the brush every night. Immerse the brush in warm ‘water, rub the soap on until you get a good lather, give the face a good hard scrubbing, rinse thoroughly with clear, warm water; dry and apply a pure cold cream or-skin food. This should be done at night, just before going to bed. If*you have the correct brush it will make the face a bit tender for a day or two, but not longer. As there are also_pimples, it would be wise to get rid of these before beginning the face-scrubbing process. Be very careful as to your diet and bathe the eruption frequently with listerine di- luted in three times as much bofled wa- ter. remedy tion. W. D.—Legal questions are not an- swered in this department. Have handed your letter over to the man who edits the Tegular answers to correspondents col- umn in the local. MILDRED M.—Formula for orange flower skin food was given in last Sun- day’s Call. As far as the hair-producing property of cold cream is concerned., you can feel absolutely secure in using a cream that contains neither lanoline nor cocoanut oil. These oils in their pure state are both excellent hair growcrs, although when combined with other ingredients, as in the skin food, are comparatively saf Do write to meé again and ask me a those other questions that are worrying you. . A. N. M.—In massaging the lines about the mouth smear the skin first with some good emollient cream and then knead and smooth the little lines, rubbing al- ways across the wrinkles. If vou will send me a stamped addressed envelope I will send vou the address you desire. UNHAPPY—I am afraid T can giv but little comfort concerning the for the last trouble you men- fluous hairs. The preparation that you mention and others of a like nature merely banish the hairs for the time be- Ing by burning them off to the surtace of the Ammonia slightly diluted have the same effect. But the halre return and pessibly coarser than before. There i ¥ nothing but the ele tric needle will destroy them per- manently oxide of hydrogen will bleach them white. PANSY. long as you continue to wear high collars vou will no doubt be distressed by that discoloration about the neck. It can be bleached out hy applying pure lemon juice each night.’ After it has dried on th rub thoroughly with cold cres Bat the eves with diluted wit el will often do awav with the d under them. For the profuse ase a little of the ted to L. M. R. in the bathe the a ving dust one part boracic powdered taleun will 2 vou. There cer N0 impropri-ty in asking your married friend fo~ a pho- tograph. She should regard the requet as a comphment if m, Trlicate way DAISY D. H.—I ¢ never heard of the am vou ment s0 cannot advise you about it. The best rouge i ie hy incorporating a small auan pow- dered carm in a little m > ends of vour hair well trimmed the following tonic for the uff:” F Ains resc one-half ounce and alc enough to fill a t ttle. Appl every ht. rubbing it into Ip. Send me a stamped addressed en- ope and T will tell you where you can procure the complexion brush . A As vou are afraid to use any- thing containing oil on your skin. swhy not try thic e cream. It ver whitening and will also make the skin soft and ve and it well rubbed in will utterly discourage wrinkles. Use this at night, and in the dayt followir tringent wash: pint bottle and place in spoonfuis of fresh. unc cucum juice. Half fill the bottle with eldc flower water and then add two table spoonfuls of eau-de col Shake well nd add very slowly an ounce of mple tincture of benzoin, shaking. the mixture now and then. Fill the bottle with elder flower water. Let this ) ares Ade this dry on as to the res [ this treatment. Peroxide of -d""r{c‘:wnr with a little ammonia added, will bleach the hairs so that they wul be much less noticeable and will not injure the skin e no faith in the ef- R—The flushing in your case is probably caused by an overheated condition of the blood. Eat plenty of fr, and crisp green salads and drink free| mineral_ws These are cooling to the blood tringent wash, formula for which is g in reply to “E. A. 1 think will help you also, and the orange flower skin food will soothe and soften the skin. It was the glycerine in the lo- tion_that you have been using that dar! ened vour skin. Stop using the powder that has roughened vour skin. It prob- ably contains bismuth or lead, both of are most injurious to the skin rice powder lightly applied aft the least little bit of cold which ream on the face will cool the skin and reduce the redness to some extent. If applied before exposure to wind or sun it will prevent the skin from burning so pain- fully. ISS LILLIAN BURKHART fs one of the best dressed women on the stage—and off as well. While many ac- tresses dress beyond criticism for the footlights, few know the “proper thing” for the sunlight. Am sorry, but I cannot suggest any. o 5 fad - = g a . : ok atest Uodlottes j rome! ariz, ; b= B3 o gfififififififififififififififififififififififiafifi?&ficfljfiufififififififiafififiofifiaf‘fibUG“DU Parls Letter to the Sunday Call. HE fashion of dresses with tunics has now become quite general, and ladies are now seeking for some kind of variety in this kind of The two drawings reproduced in entirely original and class of costume, model. this number arc uite novel in the same :lhal composed of bright cloth. E"‘:,‘,‘flf{(f the costumes is described as being mAts in white cloth, but they would be equéls distinguished whatever color may been selected. The first model is composed of a fii& very flat and forming a fourreau. wl e widens at the bottom into crushed pleats and a trafn. It is trimmed round the bot- tom with three rows of stitching in reg ular curves. Over. it is a plain tunic, stitched, with the corsage opening Hg(e;he jacket and rather long. The lapels n‘ the corsage and corners at the bottom of 10¢ tunic are trimmed with designs cut S in perforated cloth and laid on over Wh'e taffetas, The sleeves are flat and trlmn‘l;‘m with stitched wristbands. Beneath s corsage is a kind of large double-breast walstcoat, which comes down to the knees. It can be made either of crear white velvet or taffetas nmhru)dl’red\ o over with gold thread, with round but- tons in gilt passementerie. The w(\ist; nd which encircles the waistcoat Is o ine velvet or taffetas draped, and be- th it inen front like that of a man’s shirt, with one jeweled button in the center. The scarf and bow are o the same material as the waistband. =~ The hat Is composed n{fl;x{l.{v\ ruches a cmed with bunches of roses e cand. model in the same style is also of white cloth, with (\l.nl(‘ cut \l}"?‘.(]rnl pale greenish gray cloth. The uml|.r‘.~mn is completely plain from top to bo (_“\; very long and very supple, and made with e part a very full train. All the part : ckirt covered by the tunic is very flat and tight. The tunic is composed of tabs o unded at the bottom like cloth rounded at th LR light blade and embroidered ht ar besque ¢ 1s in featherstitch. Between cach s covered with silk tab the seam P corsage s slightly draped. : The tunic comes up to the chest, leaving a smali openirg down the center, through which the white clo visible, The unper part of th de up Iike the lower, but with th ends upper- most and the deslgns corresponding. T Tounded erds are of unequal length. The eves, like corsage and skirt, are Dblain cloth. The neck trimming is o {he same mater °d in the same style as the tunic, o collar Is of whit The waist- cioth with long pointed end d matches the tunic The lat made for the costume is of crepe to match the tunic, trimmed with a ir of white wings and a bunch of very ale pink roses on the left side. The third dress is of blue a {I’UL de soie of a very \'In‘.\]’?!f’ “] uxr;: The skirt, which is plain otherwise, richly embroidered with a design coming to a point in front and rou the hips: in hoth cases the embroidery matches the affetas or skirt in color. The cors: is cut & in 'nl\ irregular I nd embroidered along kirt. sole and s the me style in very fine perpendicul 1 be made in such a fa at it can be exchanged for another if desired. re ornamented with circles and the buttons should eel enamel. AT HE fan will play an important part in the summer girl's campaign. It is the: chief weapon of defense against mosquitoes, and for the purpose she will use the palm leaf fan. But for the less serfous purpose she will use one of the new and exquisite designs. The new fans are from 9 to 10 inches in fength, the tiny empire fan not being as popular as it was several seasons ago. There are many pretty chiffon fans, one having a pretty pastoral scene painted upon it. Another of white chiffon has sil- ver spangles decorating it. One very unique fan is made or silk. upon which are slees The of narrow pleat be of blue and s appliqued designs in Chantilly lace, and alternating with the lace n llions are pretty little hand-painted figures; the in- laid sticks are painted and s A pale cream-colored silk fan, elaborately ornamented with figur in the vle of the Vernis Martin is among the most expensive. Paillettes of shining steel are used to sew the delicate pat- l‘; \ Ll Miss Burkhart's gown, worn in this picture, IS an example of Redfern’s art. It is of a material which as yet can be had only from exclusive importers. It is like yet unlike duck—softer and glossier than that material, but the Jacket is made to be worn either buttoned back or closed. It Is a gown that in the very perfection of its simplicity shows the artist's touch. A gown that a man would describe as “some inexpensive little thing” and that a wise woman could easil chic, jaunty air of- the garment. For this unlined gown of summer material, ornamented by a few pearl buttons, Miss Burkhart paid tedfern $80! The white silk shirtwaist is one of the models for the new silk waists. Instead of the usual zigzag criss-cross of tucking there are simply a few tucks forming a sort of yoke, broken by the first flap that fastens over the front. These flaps placed in this way perform a double duty. They serve not only as a novel trimming, but fasten the waist. It is a style easy to copy and most effective. The shade is a delicate cross between einnamon and fawn, the skirt is perfectly plain, and v guess the price of, from the inimitable cut and the terns of flower sprays appliqued - on net and chiffon. Black fans, black and green and black and violet seem to be the popular colors. There are many pretty commencement fans and wedding fans, which, of course, are white. Chains are much used, and the pretty Japanese fans are almost as beau- tiful in design as the expensive silk and lace. o s e One may question the taste of the thing, but French shops are trying to make the colored handkerchiefs fashionable. These squares come in colo to match the gowns, and are very pretty in them- selves. A delicate violet has a bit of dainty embroidery in one corner, ' in which the rose and bowknot are inter- twined. A pale yellow has a wreath of pretty rosebuds and a spreading bowknot. A vale blue is embroidered 0 in one corner, the design being a bird, upon the branch of a rose tree. . Woman to-day seem to have acquired a magple taste for “all that glitters. Jeweled ornaments are more than ever the rage, beeds and spangles are worked up into 'a melange with cut steel and pearls, and the complex mixture shines forth on various parts of gay costumes. A mnew collar is made out of fringe of fine pearls, falling all around the neck. Occasionally the fringe has the threads graduated in length, so that they reac clear to the bust in front and are tapered off on either side. The shower of pearls is sometimes arranged to a velvet collar, or for a decgllete gown they may depend from a single rope of pearls around the neck, and are accounted most coquettish in that they s gently at every breath. The velvet collars or stocks mostly black, but sapphire, ruby sometimes preferred. Colla with the swinging fringe, will displace the long pe have been so much worn. They intended for full d the ¢ y are more particularly admired r silk blouses and all kinds of pretty loose silk w would we: ists, such as one r to the theater, There are collars also are made entirely of steel, in fine hea ranged in and steel pendants. . A $5,000,000 SBawL : HAT Ind tion of of the apparent great bulk of the people, is probably the greatest treasure house earth is due to the fact that for ages it was, with Ceylon and Burma, the field which supplied the rest of the world not only with gold, costly fabrics and spices but with precious stones, the finest s mens of which, however, were ever T tained by the Hindoo and Mogul Princes for their own personal adornment. One of the Jewel tre of the Indi Princes, that of the G r of Bar is perhaps the most remarkable, being appraised by experts a few year: t the immense sum of three c of rupees or $15,000.000. Among his collection his chief diamond necklace, worn on state oc sjons, contains the “Star of the South, a Brazilian stone weighing , for which $400,000 was paid, the whe lace being valued at forty or $1,000.00. The masterpic session, however, i after a forel me centur n occupa- s, and in spite poverty of the il nderful composed entirely inwrought and other precious stones work most_harmonious and artistic arabesque patterns, and which actually cost the ex- srdinary price of $5,000,000. This shawl was intended as a present to cover the tomb of Mohammed, but w it was finished the Gashwar thought tw of the idea and kept it himsel While is true that the native jewel. s a rule care less for the purity and commercial lue of the stones than for the general ect produce yvet their artistic feeling and skill in setting gems, often but poorly cut nd polished, cannot be surpassed. As evidence of thi A comb of matchless workmanship wa ented to the Prince of Wales by the Raja of Jaiy Another present which the Prine les it pre re- was a and emeralds ued at 000, in addition to which there was a solitaire diamond in the belt worth $10,000. sciatse ESTBETIC CURL PAPERS OMAN has at last found a way out of the difficulty of making a fright of herself with curl pa- pers. Doing up one’s hair on re- tiring has always been a per- plexing problem to those who eschew hot irons, for even in the sancity of isola- tion one does not like to feel herself a fright. With a due knowledge of feminine cap- rice, some enterprising manufacturer has sent out a_curl paper which ties around the desired curl with a dainty bow of ribbon, so that when the bang or pompa- dour is arranged for the night the head 100KS as if surrounded by a“halo of pretty ribbons and floating ends. Half the horrors of a fire in an apart- ment house are thus done away with, for rrowing sight of curl papers has vys added to the other t ors in no Il degree; sleep walking can now be graceful scene from ‘“Macbeth,” to_say nothing of one’s own feeling in being well dr ed—in curl papers—which Is said to give the crowning touch to wo- man's self-possession. Truly, the manu- facturer of ribboned curl paners should be canonized if there is any titude in the feminine breast. ARTISTIC HETHER it Is that the Ameri- can society woman, owing to her \}\(/ late hours she reaches a certain s a little arti- ficial touch heére and there to restore her fading bloom, or from whatever cause it may be, the fact unfortunately remains that she does use a little judicious m up. .Now, as this sec to be a nec when age need Why not use this make-up as her French sister does, who has it down to a fi vho has it d ne point of perfection, For instance,. the Parisienne nev would think of using the sume rouge for day and night, and she always applies it in ‘the light for whic tended. . 1f she is a brunett r and rouge for a brunette, wh he is a blonde she buys blonde materials, first phase of the performance s to thoroughly wash the face with a little £0ap on a soft rag, in very warm water. Then dry with a Soft towel. Then if it is daytime she goes to the brightest win- and, by the aid of her hand glass, this rouge, which is in a liquid The cheeks and jawbone are treat- then the lips, for which a different s used, care to make them app ) a liquid, taki ir darker on the inner edge ow the forehead is treated to a powder, which is applied and then rubbed off until none remains. A little of this powder is rubbed on the nose and around the mouth and promptly rubbed or the brows and eyelashes a pencil should never be used for the : brow tiny bar of India ink is that ded. “The same rout is applied to the night make-up, the only difference t in the materials used, and n always be bought of any good chemist. SerING GoLors. HION make aris comes the s ) on all shades of violet, coral and national blue for new spring dresses, and that holding prime favor is a very bright render: the periwinkle tint, a combination ¢ am and any of the paler tones of beige. In millinery violets and blues certainly hold the palm. For a touch of color in an otherwise all black hat coral seems to say that from al of approval be_the fayort Beautiful shades of violet and blua cloths are to be used for dressy costumes, and the mewest foulards and India silks are shown in those two colorings, be- sides the mever out of style black and white. Black and white combination is to ba very fashionable this stylish boleros an with white satin, out revers —_ Marys Little Liamb., Mary had a millionaire, His head was soft as dough, And everywhere that Mary went Why_ he was sure'to go. He followed her to church one day, And then they had a row, Arranged by Mary. Mary lives On alimony now. e e “Dear me!” cried mamma, “what is the baby ecrying for “He's cross with me, mamma,” said Mollie. *“I was trying to make him smils with the glove stretcher. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR Is removed by DR. and MRS. d the most to be lined h or with Taylor, s *28-29, electric_needle, without pain or scar. Moles, warts blackhead: freckles marks, etc., also removed. manency guaranteed. Hours, 1 t0 4 p. m.