The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 26, 1899, Page 27

3 . y 3 : 4 ! THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 26, 1899 27 + EASREEOABAGEae At s LU T CO OO s U TR L OISO UTUUPRUOBPS TSR SR IS S S48 £ S e aa s et h e RN Wbym (a Faw's Z&eda’iny Sown. Zsscfl,’oh’on of Fer Beautitul and Elaborate Urousseau. AHE details of the tw ai 2 t:\m most inter- | the same lace, made to stand up very | 't ter week | high at t o P ha Dastotiwenk fniy he back into the halr. Beautiful Evening Dresses becomes the | . m‘m‘::‘i‘r‘;‘;g; With this gown Mfss Fair will wear a unites the repre | Yery unusual hat and one after her own fortunes wiiy ng | exclusive design, with no than n \on: | French milliners for any of the sugges- ciety has had | '97S: equally | 1t IS of long stems of flowers made over = frame and caught down at intervals. It 1s turned up at the back and worn a lit- la ceremony will en Miss Emily | ¢ | tle forward. It is trimmed with a wreath | becomes the wife of | i ng wh ke or circulet of purple grapes, and large 5 . < grape leaves and black velvet rosette: g ceremony of Mr. Vander- |’ . e, der- | ire tucked under the turned-up back be performed by at noon on esic e of Mr A cockade of lace is the basis for a mass of five black paradise plumes | There are many evening dresses in the an Oelrichs the R e outfit, and one of the prettiest of them |1s rd( white India gauze with trimmings of R <a 3 0! and rosettes of pi DeRuEiin e Y oy, Thich ! gause Uwith Sreco o e il h-m?‘; trails beautifully about the feet | be erected. Betors | 2nd Is very long at the back. The whole Wil be ablaze ity | SKIFt s “flounced with deep plissed D | flounces of the tulle embroidered delicate- »uple will be married. man will be Mr. at Harvard. Miss “ honor her lifornia. v at the edge with gold thread and gold ole body is covered with richest; t gold embroide It is cut ve nd has no sleeves—only little wi ps 5 léir:f wM;TI of tulle below the shoulder and bands of filled with r the shoulder itself. The k gauze look like roses and Zold thr the center to look like the hearts These dec- color, by t e decora be served at = = orate the corsage at one side, and trail- *‘ “‘;:‘:':g i”d T, |Ing out from them over the white flesh o e o 4o | and down the front are leaves made of literally covered with pink | P21e 8reen gauze edged with gold thread. These were made by the dressmaker at | Miss Fair's suggestion and the effect of the gauze leaves and inst the | white tulle with the gold is fairy-like in its delicacy. Dreams of the Tailor. Another evening gown of quite a differ- ent type is all of 1 excepting the tiny edge of the skirt, which peeps below the & lace redingote. This is of soft liber- satin in a creamy .white. Th s is a creamy ecru and it fits the fiz- a point in ack in_two t train, and all are embroidered air fern pattern. designed and well adapt- | : le of beauty is | ure like a mew French glove, the seams ¥ med with a |being held tight all the way with feath- of the old lace, put on flat | €rbone. It fastens in the back and is sleeves are marvelously | decollete. Where it fastens there are lit- rows of three tucks going |tle Vellow velvet buttons, and a cluster se little tucks are almost in- | of black velvet roses with yellow centérs e and beautifully fine. Between | Crosses one shoulder. i of the same fine | There are sleeves to this gown, but they the wrists there | 0 not extend to the shoulder, looking more like long mitts. This gown also trails about the feet and is exceedingly close-fitting about the hips, giving an effect of extreme slender- | ness—an effect, by the way, which Miss Fair cultivates in all her gown To jump from evening robes to street gowns fs to tell about a handsome tailor gown which Miss Falr intends to wear | soon after her marriage—in fact, it may be intended as the going-away gown. This | is of light weight spring broadcloth of | the new variety, which has a surface al- | | most like satin. It is of a lovely shade | of the walst is made after | manner, with t and inser- | e lace, and there is also a full | t of it About the throat there is a high coilar | laid standing pleces of also is of lace. Falr is to wear | » rs embroidered in pearls stockings | costumes | of siver gray, made up with strapped A gowns are exceedingly | seams and numerous strap decorations. so smart in effect that| The gown is odd because of its little | | cutaway coat rounding down to a rather | long tab-like tafl at the back. This coat | broadly in front and has two waist- or ats, one of a sort of dull peacock green and the other of a rich mauve cloth. They pen one over the other, and show a ed shirt of white silk mull or grass en. The combination of these two pecu- colors with the clear silver gray is fetching and decidedly foreign- simple white these est h the white silk like gown for summer g. shed off at the throat by Dresses for Ordinary Wear. and there is a | g in a large| A turban of black tulle, jetted finely, » of the front, this be- | 1s to be worn with this gown, and it has touch which for trimming a single tall white plume in front, held by a large ornament of fine cut steel. The most practical and plain gown in ck, is wonde all the wedding outfit is of navy blue n Miss Fair lightweight serge. T! made up with 1gh sunburnt s a coat bodice, open! S brleht Negr tened with gold buttons. There tucked shirt of finest white inen, with a standing collar and mascu- line tie. t b 't Brick-colored gloves and a large rough- nd brilliants. straw turban after. the Spanish toreador gown for carriage and le will be worn with this gown. A r is of lavender mousse- | walking stick will also be ca. d a mounted on brilliant emerald- | single magnifying eyeglass will dangle The green is modified and | from a fine gold hout the neck. the delicate lavender over it, | There are a do: walsts for hot summer ¢ have the yokes and front us fashion ft is charming | ered by hand delicately a pocket p plissed flounce of the | handkerchief. They have very high stock ne de soie Set On Very | coliars, with bows and ends in front, and bottom small ruche. | white pearl dumbbell studs are in each gown clings closely to the | .yg t5 show how simple are the acces- delicate embrold- | [ 146q of a shirt waist. Women worth a fk of the same | o =" ugands would probably have gold studs set with diamonds, but not so with aist foisd s e ¢ little DI the future Mrs. Vanderbilt. S st ¥ “g, gt (j‘,hfifd‘ ;‘,M There are some lovely fresh white pique A et ol gowns also for the hot summer days, and T the ands I S back is | these have little jackets, most beautifully 4 far ov: d e figure at the s G enric vith white braiding, one gown fitted st beautiful Venetian point | enriched w » d th mrs!mmu e otocs "‘s of | having the pique cut away in places under 2 the embroidery. ——————————————"—"——"—" There is one beauflful, dainty white | muslin with a long, floating skirt covered with little inch-deep ruffles and having the bodice set in with the most delicate | needlework. The arms and neck show SUPERFLUOUS HAIR Is removed by DR. and MRS. A W. TRAVERSE, Donohte | through plainly in this, and a pale-blue Dullding, A M e with the | sash ties about the walst. | Zlestric_needle, without pain or | A hat of leghorn heaped with tumbling | sear. | Moles, warts, WrKiGs: | white ostrich plumes will be worn with Dl also removed. Per- | this, and will make it an ideal summer | Tanency guaranteed. Hours, 1|g51jet such as one reads about in old- to 4 p. m. ANNOUNCEMENT | have just received a NEW AND BEAUTIFUL LINE OF IMPORTED SUITINGS | fashioned poetry. Fassion's HRILLS. | HE very latest edict as regards Easter gowns will not be ready for the public eye until next | For ladies’ tailor-made suits. week. But from the !num:l\ln—l . ely | head of fashion comes the lat- Ladies will please topicome. oo . est as to Easter etceteras. and make their selections. All suits| pyJ trimmings for gowns have had the ed. definite seal of Dame Fashion placed up- guaranteed on them. There is no longer a doubt as | to what is to be and what is not to be. First and foremost, trimmings are ro- ing to be dreadfully expensive. The won- HOFFEAN, ™ ki 2w, i rirginia Fair's wedding gown is the Mins . aims exquisite workmanship, and moreover each ir that procl | Which several of the large shops held re- | that ft | elties in fabrics or trimmings areé the re- | 1t is @ man who stands sponsor for Fash- 000000 { danger signal forever hoisted, and from flourish the flambuoyant nasal appendage | | healthy most beautiful creation tha derful “‘mark-dow * sales of trimmings | cently was suflicient clue to the initiated | simp case of ‘ring out the | old, ring in the new,” for trimmings have never been fixtures always worth their price. Once out of style, they are worth- less, though they cost their weight in gold. In the course of events they come | into fashlon again, but it s a dreary waiting. The cynics who rafl at women for ever | *eking something new in fashion forget | that it is usually a man who starts the ball a-rolling. Nine out of ten of the nov- sult of man’s ingenuity, and every time lon’s whims. Madame de Mode is really a man who seeks safety in the feminine gend On flat trimmings in braid, cheniile and lace effects will be used on cloth, and there is a hint of embroidery. On thinner mate garlands, motifs | and all-overs, composed of combinations of laces, chenille, net, ribbon work and | paillettes are in vogue, Taffetas, elab- orately wrought in chenille alone or com- | bined with silver a cord or braid, and cut out in lace are used for | trimming: tire bodice: Jetted things we have a vokes, sleeves and e en- ays with us, | and Parisians are wearing incrustations of jet on white cloth and other ap- | Jetted corsages and bodices of oon ere in effect are quite the st things, beauty of the new embroidery can- not be pverrated. It is gorgeous, glitter- ingly beautiful and at the same time| harmonious. It goes to make a dream of a gown a_ nightmare of a bill. The popularity of fringe trimming is by no means on the wane. The very newest design falls from .an openwork founda- tion such as our wore on their price great-grandmothers s ik shawls. en must not be neglected in this ring wardrobe ved an important wardrobe, but this « ots and lightweight e considered the most durable for hard while cashmere, wool and silk veil- ¢ gowns. | of age wear shirt h is_a most sensi- | an. The best skirt Yair that fits not_too , ha proper_full- in the back and flares the regulation ;;ruwn-up‘ ness at the wa at the bottom manner. Such a skirt is worn with wash or sum- | mer silk shirt waists and a smart reefer or coat of plain cloth of the predom- | OOOOOOOOOOO?OOOOOO This department is for the benefit of all those who 3 giene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects the gquestions will be cheer- Write as often as you like, fully answered in these columns. any name that you choose. Address O-DAY my talk shall be for the benefit of those pror sulfering mor- tals afflicted with red noses. It's pre..y tough, I know, girls, to be obliged to go through life with the the number of letters that come to me on this subject, there must be a lot of you that are thus afflicted. In such cases one s apt to give such free rein to the im- agination that I doubt net many of these | came girls feel perfectly confident that | were they to find themselves within a | bull ring it would only be necessary to | in the face of the wild animal to infurlate him to all sorts of deeds of madness. But never mind, be that nose ever so rosy, I am sure I can tell you of something that will restore it to its pristine fairness. A red nose is one. of those distressing things that comes without respect of per- son. Nor is it always as seems to be the popular belief an indication of overindul- gence in the flowing bowl. It comes from such a variety of causes that it is difficult to suggest a universal | cure. It may be the result of a weakened | circulation; it may come from some stom- | ch derangement, or from corsets, bands | or other garments which are so tight as | to impede the circulation. Sometimes the | redn, is caused by too rough usage | with the handkerchief and very often i(“ is due to a tendency to erysipelas. First of all, find out the cause. Until that 1s removed outward applications will only alleviate—they will not cure. If the | cause is poor circulation, contact with the | cold air will expose the fact by quickly reddening a nose that is ordinarily of a normal tint. Cold hands and feet are often an accompaniment of this condition, which may be remedied by frequent exer- cise in the open air, massage, warm baths | and hot foot baths. Sometimés it is nec- restore a weakened circulation which should only be taken advice of one’s physician. If| circulation is restricted” by outer | the causes, equalize it by removing the occa- sioning pressure. When during or after a hearty meal the | nose becomes scarlet and seems to in- crease in size, it is an indication that too | much has been imposed upon the organs of élgestion, which have rebelled, sending | the bicod ta the extremities. In such cases I would suggest reducing the quantity of food and eating only such s will easily digest. A laxative diet of getables and fruit will be found par- | ticularly beneficial in cases of red or shiny noses. If the redness comes, as it frequently does, from a clogged or un- condition of the pores of the skin, remedy jt by frequent bathing in warm water, using a flesh brush and plenty of pure castile soap. Also use the face scrubbing brush freely on the nose. After the supposed cause has been re- moved and the nose still seems to ab- sorb all the color of the face, then try outward applications. Witchhazel, ai- lowed to dry on, and followed by a liberal smearing with cold cream, is sometimes | portant part of the spring making over. s N iy st Tt ey o gl e o | any sort of an address in these col and night it will be time ‘to emil s o 2 3 | any se col- a0 ot be rubbed; *bue| s neVEr too, soon, elther: Ear, that mat s o1 sotrsd: you cansmquire soused up and down in the gasoline, | ter, the sooner the better. |in any drug store and you may e e (" they are really very dirty| We have known ladies to take up the | happen to find one that keeps the ey may not be clean even then, in|study of Fremch at the age of 3, but we | right sort of a brush. ~The firm I¥hich case 1t is best to cover them With | have mever known them to acquire the | you mentioned in vour letter grr“sh gasoline 1d leave them another |, ...t They got to understand others, | ¥‘c;)erp7nlq“:lr:fm}n }:\L :? f‘he r"(]vld Fere 1s a way to get rid of the smell | but they never got others to understand | cream, nothing is more simple. soline that so often clings' to home | them. Cut the formula out of the : 1 clothes In spite of much rantic| At 3 a woman's vocabulary may be | Paber of, copy it, whichever 3 ng and shaking and sunning. It must ed Jles of affection, but | You prefer; “take ft a Be heated out. & e G e R R R e When the fabric is thoroughly dry place | 1f 51 D e e oo e e fanakatyom fas cyld ferea it over the radiator or steam pipes, or if | With the proper accent they are beggars | after that formula. In- these are un. blo cover it with a thin | at the door of speech. It is the mission | sist upon his giving you eth Ana drive the scent out by going|of woman to love and to be loved. It is|only the very best ma- o el with a hot iron. After all | what she is here for. She may fancy that | terfals and in the ex- 7: traces of the gasoline are dispelled from | are other things to do and to terials and in the ex- | the oolen stuff then renovate it entire- | done, and so there are. but by compari- | act proportions called Iy, put it right side up on an ironing | son {hey are nothing at af. | for. Boand. eaver it with a damp cloth and| “If,” said a thoroughly competent au-{ A ALICE—There go over with a hot iron, being c-)x;enu to | n\r-rulv |\1|UR" e not loving, then is liv- | wo's 2" g nacial 1ift the wet cloth as you move the iron. | ing all in vain. I Eaanty i his ives the steam a chance to come| To which we may add that hoarded | {po” Sunday Call up from the wool and raise the nap of | kisses do not improve with age. But e e e the cloth. ° This lifting of the wet cloth | it not odd to find the islature of Wis- | of Jalcl 15 1P in time to let the steam lift the nap up | consin enlarging the ists of women | Gf %, BUPIECH iS a particular point in renovating cloth. | while the ladies of Michigan are extend-| sre jnterested. 17, %n the other hand, the fabric is|ing the wastes of time?—Rdgar Saltus, in | Ag” vour let- ....Beauty Talk by Mmg. Hygeia.... 000000000C0000000000 0000000000000 0000CCO00000000C000000 you must use it, then send me a stamped | Sometimes ‘.‘uldrr\sspd envelope and I will give you| @n excess the name of a prepared liquid powder | °f dand- that is as harmless as any. sumaion N falling all that is necessary. If this treatment s not effectual and the red nose comes from inflammation of the skin, try a lotion made of rosewater and carbolic acid, three drops of the acid to four ounces ' of the rosewater. A paste made of one part of glycerine, two parts of water and enough refined c k to make into a paste is often ef- ficacious in reduc- ing the inflam- mation. This should be spread graceful line shows that ‘on in a point in front and goes t the artistic touch of up-to-date modiste has fashioned. e £ the figure of the wearer was considered in the designing. It is perfect in detail and harmonious as a whole—a gown fit for Fortune's favorite. up the back in two flounces. B R Cre Beautiful Costume in Which She Wil Become a Pride on Hprid & Text. will be flattened and the surface flat and uneven. The treatment just described is the means tailors use for taking the “shine” off men's cloths when they be- come _glossy in places. They are ot ironed dry, but “pressed and steamed” and left to dry out naturally. inating color in the skirt. For later use pique or duck skirts can be made after the same skirt model. ? An exceedingly pretty gown for a child | is of the new nun’'s véiling in one of the fashionable reddish tints, and has a white | voke collar and epaulets outlined with R R e g braid. —_— e Pretty gowns of thin soft materials 2 > + have the skirts trimmed with chiffon ICHIGAN has become the thea ORI TR B PP AL E LIS ter of events quite as important as those occurring and about to A Bachelor ruchings, and cream or white lace is in-| variably introdiiced on the bodice. Child- h figires need something in the way of et in \WiscoHAL: ter is dated some time before that, I pre- hair will bring about this condition. O s Jou saw It. 1f not, write again. You are treating your hair very sensibly. ;‘r:‘{a‘?r‘:flihet?ayp‘;lxp(:r';;!;)lifi “ath ‘{‘;bgr‘i‘rs the | Girls' Association has been formed there | Tell me whether it is ofly or dry and I ;;lng?h?rfjna};g‘:?uisazgies?r;;t?&ufivsl( ég: Earen. Buch as ingham, lawn, cam- | With the obfect of organizing socleties in | will give you a tonie to make It ZrOW. | jrocess o e R ises. So many me, imploring me to telj any old thing that wil again that real- For the tiny eruptions on the legs and arms scrub briskly each day with a good Stiff flesh brush, warm water and castilz | After thus bathing, dry with a | every township and city, the members of | which shall pledge themselves not to en- | tertain proposals of marriage until they ve written to them of a dye or turn the white hairs dark from one woman bric, percale and the like, are beautiful in coloring and dainty in design. For the most part they are inexpensive and do up well. These look their best when E it S5 a relleFEto. h made with a gered skirt, with an at-|are thirty. | soap: | Ly It 18 8 ety satisfied with what na- Thohed graduated flounce, not too wide. [ It is never too late to mend, of course, | coarse towel and apply a small quantity | TTho 12 domns for her in this respect, but Ao ta ‘are usually shirred or tucked | but we can't help thinking that should | of cocoa butter softened with sweet-al- | aniious to assist her in her efforts. I on full to a yoke of white tucking or all over embroidery, which is outlined by a cord of the material and a frill of em- broidery. Puffs are noted on few full sleeves, which are extremely small. PR A word about cleaning, which is an im- Rub it in until 1t has been en- | doff myv hat to you, tirely absorbed by the skin. As you do | to say that Lknow of noth not wish to use any creams or lotions | have the desired effec d R el okin T iy Euby: what tof tiatdicamnot sugite. s for thejunf e ) o You W S & tell vou to do for the freckles except to | DAt nose T AGEL. S0 ey Talk protect the face from the rays of the sun | by wearing a heavy vell or carrying 3 | parasol. 1 am glad “auntie” had confi- dence enough in me to let her little girl | the assoclation thrive and prosper there mond ofl. will be many a good time lost. *‘Comme je regrette non temps perdu’ is a song | with which Beranger acquainted ladies | of a certain age. The alir is plaintive, and | 50 is the sentiment. A woman who holds | off until she Is 30 misses her vocation, misses, too, the charm of youth and of life. The poets are right. Nothing re- mother, but am sorrs of nothing that woul a bleach, and fn nine cases out of ten things can be cleaned just as well at home as at the e g ;f‘,;‘p,f;_"““.'r’}x’t‘, | sembles happiness so well as love. To en- | Write to me, and that she will allow et | thing that is to be cleaned is merely im- [ tertain proposals of marriage is only less to do $o .again some time. 1 mersed in gasoline and left covered with | agrecable than making them. Tt is the | HOPE R—1 find that the shops here do 1 / = 8- | st fascina S centi car} e gen s L ol tis fOUr Do iy, | most fascinating of mature's inventions. | 0, pca’ Y Those usually sold under the T et can be covered, and by throw- | There s an art In it also which comes|nam¢ are made of badger's halr. _Per- Ing’ 4 blanket over the tin cover remain | but through practice and experience, and | haps this will make it easier for vou to find the article you wish. I am sorry, of which real mastery Tequires an early | r but it 1s impossible for me to give nearly enough airtight ironed dry through the wet cloth the nap | Collier's Weekly. 00 0000000000000 00000000000C000C000000 000000 are interested in the science of cosmetics ana the hy- ask as many questions as you please and sign all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. upon the nose and allowed to remain as|mary water and fifteen drops of carbolic long as convenient, then gently and care- | acid. I cannot advise you about the hair fully removed and the nose wiped off wWith | tonic containing ofl of lavender. The assoft cloth: : b _ | other oil contained in it T never heard of People with rosy-tinted noses should | p.rore so know nothing as to its merits. deny themselves all rich and highty sca| ppe’inyigorator that you speak of is all soned foods, hot, strong tea or coffee and | T INV/EOFALOr L FOL JRELE N Halr every form of stimulant. They should not Rl -mnmemmi e cioy atain e eat fresh pork, ham, sausage or bacon. r ] FigH, st colldrs, Ught belts and sleeves | the scalp, 'No, the black Vel wih not mugt also be foresworn, way to protect the face from sun Where the nose is olly or shiny bathe | gnd wind is to smear it generously it nightly with diluted spirits of cam- | hor or water in_which a little borax has | en dissoived. When it is both red and | with cald cream and then sprinkle with a pure powder just before shiny without being ofly It may he hathed | S0 out, Then cover It e -, with tepid water and cologne, dried and | must never be used when soap -2 then anointed with cold cream. In a| has just been appiled, because P73 | few minutes the cream should be removed | {he acid will decompose. tha P | and a little rice Pow:ier.:ubbfli on. soap and injury to the skin s will result. BUTTERCUP—The wash for the eyes suggested to Answers to Correspondents. ALPHONSINE—Use the orange flower | Frances G. will also help skin food instead of the zinc ointment. | YOU- What is the mat- Foicne bt ° ment. | forwith your eyes that Formula is given In reply to Dorothy. In| o ‘can yead so little the Sunday Call of February 26 there| at a time? Perhaps was a speclal beauty talk on the subject of facial eruptions. 1 hope you saw it. M. W.—As I have stated many times before in these columns, I do not poss: what I consider. a good recipe for liquid powder. My advice to you# would be to get your complexion into such a state of you need glasses. I should see an ocu- | list, or at least an optician, were I in | your place It would be impos- sible for. me to say what causes perfection that it will accept the dry |the itching of powder, which is vastly less harmful, ay | the scalp. It : 85| comes from nearly all the liquid preparations contain bismuth or lead. However, If vou feel | o & 1 s e s causes. DORA—I cannot tell you of a dve that will make vour hair the color you wish. FRANCES G.—I am glad you find the | beauty talks a pleasure. The lemon hafr wash cannot possibly harm the hair in any way. If you find that soap does not agree with your skin, why do you not use almond meal in its place? Or you can cleanse the face with the orangeflower skin food alone. A lotion that is very excellent for inflamed eyelids is made by rubbing one teaspoonful of pul- verized boracic acid in fifteen drops of spirits of camphor and pouring over this two-thirds of a cup of hot water. Stir and strain and use as needed. The orange- flower skin food is good for any sort of a skin. There is ' nothing ‘better. You Il find the formula in wer to Dorothy. The lotion that sou" mention is all rigl Tor the hands. JRIOSITY—Ge ground barley fnr‘ the lotlon. Try this wash for red blotches: ne ounce . &lycerine, one-half oun ce rose-, the rare and priceless lace and the rich and gleaming satin that make this a gown of gowns. It has that The gown is of seams of the skirt are embroidered in pearls. Very daintily designed and well adapted to sult Between the tucks are insertions of the same fine lace, also laid It is not only It has a court train, and all the is trimmed with rare -old lace that is put waist. This is trimmed with a “priest’s yoke” of the old lace, put on flat and plain. The sleeves are marvelously tucked in rows of three tucks going across. satin. Its skirt and there is also a full front of It. About the throat there is a high collar of the lace laid upon standing yie of beauty is the pleces of white satin. The Fair's £ - p 2 he b £ the walst is made with tucks and insertion of the lace, . At the wrist there 15 ‘”‘.‘,’,"-‘Cf{g:(’xéa;f e et;nsveéarT‘vlvehn?zdia?m B overs embrojdered In pearis, and white silkc stockings. A change may be made before the bride puts on the orange blossoms. One flounce of lace Instead of two may be used on the skirt el Alsodsol e y‘e‘[“{; the Eom D e hether the second flounce is an improvement or whether ita removal will enhance the beauty of this marvelous work of the modiste’s art. the gown.