The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 26, 1899, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUN DAY, FEBRUARY 26, 1899. to wear an opera must bear the mousseline de , net, in fact, 1ming or how dar- The flowered bro- ruffles down the 1ds that while a tig front everything must 't try to freshen knot of rit FREE Pimples Freckles Coarse Wrinkles 4-DAY HAIR RESTORER color to gray No disagreeable after effects. nor stickiness. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR tly removed by the Electric Needle LOLA MONTEZ CREME a tissue buflder without an It is a natural AL POT FREE 1s a skin purifier an of Lola Montez Creme MRS, NETTIE HARRISON DERMATOLOGIST, eary Street, San Franeiseco. and lace. If the ribbon and lace are of excellent quality it is wasting good ma- terial on a poor foundation. If they are not it is a still more unpardonable ¢ For shabby finery is the most heinous sin committed in f._\shmn' name. and wrap From gown ‘“‘sham bonne! course. A s to headgear, of "’ if one must come r, and uncovered head if one a carriage at beck and call. The sham bonnet is dressed in with tue hair @ annot be removed It is a combina- tion of the milliner’ and hairdrsesser’'s craft—in fact, a bonnet deftly built on the locks without the legitimate bonnet frame. Thi sham “bonnet will be a source of constant joy. The disguise of a snatched off at the rise of the r awkwardly readjusted at random, will" soon be a forgotten shame. Flowers, aigrettes, wired ribbon and jeweled combs will flourish undisturbed on well satisfied heads, one simple rule holding good for all. That rule is that the hair must serve as a frame, and if a roll of velvet, silk or satin form a crown the hair shall show through it. In whatever arrangement the uncovered hair must be a feature. The ‘‘donkey-eared” bow most girlish “sham bonnet The velvet is shaped into four tiny sharp ‘“donkey- ears” and lned with satin. A folded bias piece of the same velvet is looped around the knot of hair and is twisted in front to form the center of the double donkey-eared bow. Another pretty style is to substitute two pairs of dainty, tiny wings for the donkey ears. The hair should be parted in the middle and waved loosely over the side pompadour rolls. The wings must droop slightly at the tips and the upper pairs ars a trifle shorter than the lower ones. The knot and roll encircling the hair are this style made of black velvet tulle, with a semi-coronet of cut steel or rhinestones ,:urrr:u\mlmg the knot of fabric directly in fron For the debutante is an appropriately youthful and simple decoration devoid of jewels. Ju: aigrette rising from a bunch of roses. The roses may be double ngle, but are exaggeratedly large and the stems concealed in the pompa- one of the of the sham bon- The most matronly The hair is nets is called the Louis XVI. brushed over a pompadgur roll that com- pletely encircles the ‘head. It is then d in a loose knot, the ends of which are curled and pinned flatly down to the knot. A twist of black velvet twined around the t is finished off in front with a Louis XVI bow. The latter is the novel part of the head dress. It is made of white tulle, carefully wired at_the edges under a piping of biack velvet. Pas- tiles of black velvet are appliqued to the tulle, which 1s then bent and crinkled into the fashionable Louis XVI. Mock jewels or spangles may be effectively substituted for the velvet dots. Frills of Fashions. In the first place it is evident that only the lightest and most delicate colorings will be used: There are palest fawn, faint: est hedge sparrow-egg blue, the most clicate ti of green. All these shades will be fashionable, although distinctly, to my mind, the fawn and pale gray shades are the best and most becoming. ed is an entirely new material The cloth ; a sort of stuff that is most oft and light, ‘and having neither cord nor grain. It is made up with me simplicity, sometimes merely strapped or bound with white satin and trimmed with a multiplicity of -narrow stitchings in white, or else worn with one of those long, sweeping, princess-shaped overdresses in gulpure lace. g Girls who affect long redingotes with slanting slde pockets in front of the hips wearing chatelaines, with the pin fas- de of the pocket and the metal trinkets seemingly tumbling out in merry jingle jangle. Out of the same pocket, and as securely fastened in, puffs the frill of priceless lace kerchief. . The wash silks, otherwise known as silk cheviots, abound among spring im- portations. The new patterns are e; tremely pretty, many of them showing the pin and polka-dotted deslgns so uni- versally popular. Others are in soft shades, in stripes of rose color and reseda, russet and damask red, pale violet and chamois color, two distinct shades of blue or green, etc. The silks, in tiny hair lines and dots, will be used in the manner first Introduced by Paris and London ilors, a trim, perfectly fitted shirt waist being added to traveling, morning ,and tennls costumes of woolen or iight "~ welght cloth. The jacket en suite this year is close fitting and short, and this, with the tailor skirt;-is formed of silky English serge, which costs $1 50 a yard, but is extra wide, requiring a very little material for both jacket and gored skirt. Lace flounces will trim the bottom of plain skirts. A form of lace especially prepared for flouncing is in a slightly cir- cular shape and is called the ‘“godet” flouncing. These conform to the shape of the skirt without being [fulfiered or pleat- ed. This make can also be used with great effect in the formation of cascades @nd other styles of trimming, not only for skirts but for waists. The Easter bridesmaids. the summer dancing maid, as well as the debutante of the winter season, can have nothing more appropriate than one of the painted silk muslins which have some of these rose designs on faint blue or lemon grounds. These are mounted over soft silk, such as surahs, ottomans, unstiffened or satin foulards, so that the foundations are all limp and trailing, the muslin alone crisp- ing airfly about the limbs. Lizards modeled in gold and thickly set with diamonds and emeralds are the fad of the moment. o ee—— Just Like a Man. The country writhed in the throes of a terrible war, and the red lightning of bat- tle played incessantly athwart the skies It was with an anxious heart that Mrs. Smith moved about the house making ready for dinner, for her husband was a Soldier, and even now was oattling a mile or so away. As she went to the door for about rhe fortieth time and looked down the road, Mrs. Smith saw a cloud of d hading her eyes, she looked more intently, and soon forms evolved out of the rapidly moving chaos. It was her husband, hotly pursued by a squad of the enemy. He was running for the house like mad, his pursuers close on his heels. With a sob, Mrs. Smith floor. “If that isn't just like John!" she cried; “bringing a lot of men home to dinner that I never saw before, and not a thing in the house to eat.” BECOMING (oLoRs. 1 you how to choose becoming col- ors ald William Chase, the famous ar- tist. “Do you know that is about the hardest question I have ever been called upon to answer? Why, artists study years to acquire such knowledge. and many of us descend to our graves feeling we have not mastered the secret. “The art of dressing well does not de- pend on_the selection of colars alone, but on the form. I will fllustrate: Take the costumes worn_in Trelawny of the WeH The colors are beautiful and the effect at- tractive, but they are not graceful. The old Greeks are the ones women should study when seeking graceful effects, and sank to the if th wish harmony of colors, let them study old Japanese prints. “Of course, blondes should always choose what are known among artists as cool colors; for example, blues greens, the many shades of violet, also white or black. Brunettes have all the warm tones—yellow, orange, red, with a few purples and blues—to select from. “It is more difficuit for= blonde than a brunette to dress becomingly.- All women with light hair or eyes fancy they should wear blue, especial delicatg tints of azure, whereas very few of them can at- tempt it successfully. Only blondes with perfect complexions ought ever attempt pale blues. Yet it is very generally be- coming to brunettes. Such women do not ravages of time in the cruelest way. Whenever the concealment of age is 2 consideration it should be avoided. “Moreover, let every woman bear in mind that pink and red should be worn above in preference to below the face. I never saw a woman who was improved by one of those pink or red collars they are wearing now—what do you call them? Stoc Well, red and pink stocks take the color out of the face, and as a rule make the eomplexion vellow. “But the strangest mistake to me Is that women insist_on wearing a_color simply because it is fashionable and without any regard to becomingness. I remember once being called on to paint a girl, quite a pretty Jewess she was. and dark, of course, who wore a horrible blue waist. I mean horrible for her. Why, I couldn’t see the girl's face for that detestable bod- ce seemed to shriek and scream at me. 1 remonstrated, but she declined to make 2 change, owing to the extreme fashion- ableness of the color. What can we ar- tists do when ladies think more of fash- ion than taste! “If you clever shoppers would only take the goods before buying, throw it against the face and use your eyves, you could easily decide whether or no a color was becoming. When vou do chance to have an unbecoming tone the effect can be modified by using white or cream near the ace. cream for brunette: a point which all women will do well to remember—only the fairest and best cared for blondes should risk ivory w All othér had best cling to cream t “Dark greens, blues and purples must never be attempted by women who have dark circles under the eyes, or whose faces have a tendency to hollows. Such men need Aame red, for insta A red-haired woman had b the reds. Though missing some beautiful shades, T_think 1s a_wider range to select from than any other type, un- less it Is the brilliant brunette. “Pale or delicate looking women seldom Jook well in any of th grays, tans or fawns unless they are very skillfully com- bined with warm colors. “Of course no woman whose hair has the slightest suggestion of gold or_ sun- shine should wear yellow next it. Noth- ing takes away the color and_luster so completely. Various shades of red and the lighter blues look well; then, of where he would never be heard of again. Wicks—Yes; the Government should fix it some way so that we could elect him Vice President in 1900.—Puck. — ee———— First Citizen—The taxes on beer and liquors make a surprisingly large part of our revenue. Second Citizen—Yes, indeed! Its hard to see how we could expand if we didn't drink.—Puck. G@owus FOR TRAVELING. A feature of the traveling dress as it s now in its perfection is its long coat. s turn out cloth gowns in_ three s—skirt, shirt and highwayman coat. e skirt in this instance is just one of the close-fitting Eopular affairs. The_ shirt is sili but the coat is the thing. It drops well nigh to the heel, fits the body snugly clear up to the chin, takes the hips without a wrinkle, but below it falls in a sort of un- conscious draper: Z Scmetimes it closes with a fly-front and concealed buttons, all seams strapped, and the hem turned up a little above the skirt’s foot and straight around. In other cases it closes with a series of handsome braid ornaments from shoulder down ,and is artistically shaped, irregu- larly the bottom, shorter in front than behind. Any way you please to have it, the long coat is predominant and a nec- essary part not only of the spring trav- eler's wardrobe, but belongs in that of the stay-at-homes. Under the chin such a coat comes with- in two buttons of the neck, turns back tiny notched revers, and shows a tie of gay color on a ripple of cream lace be- tokening the stock shirt beneath. —ee———— t Officer—How_ would you fancy a for a husband, Miss Curzon? Miss Curzon—Very much, indeed, if he were like yourself. F. O. (highly flattered)—It's extremely sailor @ To Be Gut in Style the Gowns Must Be GCarefully Fitted to the Hips. need perfect complexions, as it throws out what little color they may have in cheeks and lips and has the effect of clearing the skin. “The same may be sald of delicate shades of yellow, while the reverse is true of pink. Almost any type excepting a very red blonde—I mean one with a florid skin—may wear pink safely, whereas the brunette or brown-haired woman ha: Dbe careful to secure the right shade. She needs a pink with a suggestion of yellow. Another thing to remember about pink, it is a shocking telltale, revealing the course, white or a bit of bright purple, but not other colors. Well, I think it safest for the majority to avoid using them in the hair. “From the standpoint of an artist.I ad- mire white and black gowns more than a other. When properly designed I have never seen a woman to whom such a dress was unbecoming.” P — Hicks—That fellow Aguinaldo is going to be a troublesome character. The Gov- ernment should do something to get him nice of you to say that, but why so? Miss Curzon—Because you wouldn’t be home much!—Sketchy Bits. Newly Appointed Father—My dear, I've decided to buy a phonograph. Newly Appointed Mother—What for, Al- fred? Newly Appointed Father—I think it would be nice to show the twins when They grow up what they owe us as an apology.—Tllustrated Bits. PSP O S S T e L s R S S A A S S A AR AR SRS 9 & + + + + + + This department is for the benefit of giene of proper living. If any one desires in: fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you tike, Talks op Bgauty by Mme. Hygeia. O O S S R R S R R A SRS all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics ana the hy- formation on either of these subjects the questions will be cheer- ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, F ALL the topics for Beauty of facial eruptions is, perhaps, the least pleasant to But the demand for subject has piled up to such enormous proportions that L have decided to go at Talks that write upon. information upon this it hammer and tongs to-day and have it over with. So, all of you who have writ- ten to me for treatment of ‘pimples, please read, clip and save, so that when I come to your letters I can just refer you to to- day’s Beauty Talk, and so save space and get caught up in a measure with the correspondence which has languished to such an extent that some of the letters on my file are over six weeks old. However, revenons a nos moutons. Those distressing little spots that come out on the face arise from various causes, and, though Eenemllg easy to remove, they sometimes exhibit an obstinacy equal to that of the proverbial mule. They are usually an indication of some physical disorder; either a derangement of tne digestive apparatus, caused by injudicious eating; an impure condition of the blood, or they may come from a neglect of the laws of hygiene. Sometimes they are sim- ply local irritations. So the more rational plan s to find the seat of the trouble and remedy that, instead of dabbing all sorts of ointments and lotions on the face. The chances are that the local applications will not do a particle of good, for. so jong as the cause remains, the effect wflfllkely travel right along in its trail. With nine women out of ten the cause -eat, and really it Is just as easy ti good, wholesome nourishing, beautifying is indigestion of some sort or qther. stomachs. that women order for their midday meals. I wandered into one of these places the. other day, and, I pledge you my word, a pretty girl at the table next to mine or- dered for her lurcheon deviled crab, corn fritters and a large cup of chocolate, munching pickles in the meanwhile. topped this off with a large piece of lemon }\ie, If that girl didn't have a good. old- ashioned stomach-ache that night and a fine crop of pimples the next morning, then I'm no prophet. Everything_depends upon the food you food into your stomach it is to over- load it with pastries, h_and highly spiced - dishes ‘and sweets, if you'll just make up your mind to it. Eat plenty of fruit, particularly for breakfast, being careful, however, not to comblne the fruit with the cereals. If this does not keep active the digestive organs, go to your ‘druggist and have this preseription filled: Extract of dandelion, one dram; powdered rhubarb, q. . Divide into three and one- half grain pills and take one every night or_oftener if necessary. Nervousness will often bring a crop of eruptions to the surface of the skin. When this is the cause, plenty of warm baths must be taken and lots of exercise in_the open air. From whatever cause the facial erup- tions come they must be treated with the Nor is this anything to marvel at when one takes into consideration the comibination of food that many women put into their If you wish to see for yourself g0 Into any of the down-town restauramts at the lunch hour and observe the stuft She to pui 444 The Sunday Call, San Francisco. utmost gentleness. Pimples must never be irritated. Breaking and b\‘ulslna the skin only adds to its diseased condition and rubbing with a coarse towel is the worsé treatment in the world. When ‘the face is covered with red blotches, use this wash: One ounce gly- cerine, one-half ounce rosemary water and fifteen drops of carbolic acid. Its ap- plication should, of course, be combined with proper living. Certain articles of food, such as hot bread, buckwheat cakes, pastry, cheese, nuts, chocolate and all sweet, fried and highly seasoned foods. also wines and beer, have an especial tendency toward producing pimples, and should therefore be rigidly excluded from the dietary. Systematic bathing and plenty of exercise in the Ogen air are also of much importance in effecting a cure. A good cold cream should also be used. When the skin is merely Inflamed—that is, red of color and very tender—a lotion ade of rosewater combined with 2 per cent of its bulk of carbolic acid will prove effective. ‘When the eruptions come to a tiny white head, they must be carefully opened with a fine needle and the contents gently pressed out. If this is followed by con- siderable cutaneous irritation, touch the pots with tincture of myrrh; if the irri- fation is but slight, an application of cold cream is all that will be necessary. Lis- terine diluted in three times as much boiled water will be found to be very heal- ing to any sort of a cutaneous eruption. A small pinch of borax in two table- sgoonfuls of cologne is also good. Use the listerine for several nights and then the borax and colofne for several nights. There is a peculiar form of eruption or wool, as you please, Plum-Golored Cloth Gown, With 27 Skirt of Accordion-Pleated Lilac Glace Silk. ‘that sometimes appears on the forehead the appear- ded in the and about the nose. It ance of tiny seed-pearls im skin and is caused by the obs the sebaceous glands. These able to rid themselves of their contents distend and become hardened and promi- nent. The only remedy for these is to puncture each separately and squeeze out the contents. The empty gland may ap- pear open and gaping at first, but with a nightly scrubbing with a camel's hair face-scrubbing _brush, tepid water and castile soap will soon assume a normal appearance. A paste made of flour of sulphur and spirits of camphor will chase away tem- porarily almost any sort of pimple. Answers to Correspondents. being . un- EMMA WILLIAMS—Give the face a good scrubbing each night with a com- plexion brush, tepid water and castile soap. Rinse and dry thoroughly and then rub into the skin a good' pure cold cream. A-little powdered borax om a bit of linen. Tubbed Hghtly over the black heads, will also help. BATHILDE X—Boil slowly an ounce of walnut bark in a pint of water for an hour. “Set” thedye by adding. a’ lump of alum the size of a hazel nut. Keep this in a bottle and-apply to the eye- brows with a small camel's hair brush. ' [ think this will give the desired tint. Be careful not to get the liquid on the skin, as It will stain it. CLARA—I cannot give addresses in these columns, but if you will send me a stamped addressed envelope I will with pleasure give you the name of a compe- tent masseuse. I cannot understand why vou have not had better results from the skin food. Dozens of my correspondents have written me that it has worked won- ders with their complexions. I am sure the difficulty with you must be that you do not use the right movements in mas- saging. 1f your chin became flabby it must be because you rolled or pinched the flesh when giving the ma , or your illness may account for its g condition. The alum bath is to be given after the massage, when the skin has absorbed-the skin food. INEZ H—I am delighted that the orange flower skin food has proved so satisfac- tory. You might-try witch hazel on the little red veins, followed by massage with the skin foor there is any positive cure for them. sorry. In my beauty talk of Januar I toid all about the removal of moles. As your letter was written January 20 I feel more than certain that you saw it. GERALDINA—The hair was considered in the Beauty Talk a couple of Sundays ago, Use the following tonic: Forty- elght grains resorcin, one-half ounce gly- cerine and alcohol to fill a two-ounce bottle. Apply every night, rubbing it well into_the scalp. This will remove the dandruff and inspire the falling locks with an ambition to stick to your head. When the hair falls it is. wisér not to brush it very vigorously. HELEN HUNT—Please read to-day's Beauty Talk for information concerning treatment of pimples. You can use the , but really I do not think Am 2 skin food for the neck all right, but think . you will get quicker results by massaging Wwith equal parts of lanolin, cocoanut oil and cocoa butter, melted together. In the morning bathe the neck with tepid water and rub briskly with a rough towel until the flesh is ail rosy from the friction. The only trouble in using the skin food on the eyelashes is that you are apt to get it in the eyes, which would probably irritate and inflame them. F. H.—Please try this astringent wash for the coarse pores: Take a half pint bottle and place in it three tablespoonsful of fresh, uncooked cucumber juice. Half fill the bottle with elderflower water and then add_two tablespoonsful of eau de cologne. Shake well and add very slowly half an ounce of simple tincture of ben- zoin, shaking the mixture now and then. Fill the bottle with elderflower water. Be sure that there are no settlings in the Dbenzoin,else it will be apt to curdle the lotion. Use two or three times a day, let- ting it dry on the skin. Use the following lotion on.the face before applying powder. It is quickly absorbed by the skin and will make the powder stick nicely: Gum tragacanth, whole, 30 grains; rosewater, 7 ounces; glycerine, one-half ounce; alco- hol, one-half ounce. Soften the traga- canth In the rosewater for a day or two, and strain foreibly through muslin or chieesecloth, Then add glycerin and al- cohol, previously mixed, shake well and erfume to suit. Be sure that your pow- Her is pure and of the best quality. If it is not it will surely roughen your skin. ANXIOUS—First of all, discard all pags. Then follow directions given in foregoing reply to Helen Hunt, treating the bust in the same manner. MYRTLE H—I am very sorry, but I haven’t the faintest idea who the doctor is that you refer to. Nor do I know of any one In this city who performs the operation you mention. Why do vou not try to get rid of your wrinkies by feed- ing the tissues and strengthening the muscles? This can be done by systematic massage with the orange flower skin food. 1 should never advise the cutting method. For the coarse pores, bathe the face al- ways in cold water, and use the astrin- gent wash suggested to F, H. They are Very obstinate always. The diet has a reat deal to do with their coming. The 'ood must be free from fat or grease if the_skin is to be refined and nice. ALICE V.—Gentle pinching will work wonders in shaping a nose. Do not use SUPERFLUOUS HAIR \Is removed by the Philadeiphia Electrolysis_ Co y, Donohoe bullding, 1170 Market ‘street, cor. Taylor, rooms 28-25, with the electric_needle, without pain or scar. Moles, warts, wrinkles, blackheads, freckles, birthmarks, ete., also removed. Permanency guaranteed. Hours, 110 4 p. m. am sure ycu are sen girl to think for even a minute of enameling_your face. T could tell you all sorts of woeful tales of women .who bave been silly enough to plaster their faces with encmel. The never wanted a second coating, I can ai sure you of *hat. indicates inpure bloods or ective _circulation. Regular exercise careful d very necessary. ot footbath night and use diluted witch hazel as external application. A paste which can be put on at night will take the redne: away. It is made by taking one teaspoor ful of glycerin and two teaspoonfuls of water and adding enough prepared chalk to make a paste. RACHEL N.—¥or the freckles, dissolve fifteen grains of bcrax in one ounce of lemon juice and apply-to the face every night with a small soft brush. Am sorry, but I do not happen to have the formula for a _particularly good liquid powde If you will send me a stamped addressed envelope 1 w give you the name of a 1 prepared liquid powder that I can recom- mend. M. B.—In Sunday’s Call, February 12, there appeared a special Beauty Talk on the care of the hair. I hope you found in it something that entirely fitted your case. INQUISITIVE—The recipe that you wish calls equal parts of lanolin, cocoanut oil and cocoa butter, melted to- gether. Ple > read foregoimg replies to Anxious. BROWN EYES—Half a teaspeonful of ammoniagto a tablespoonful of peroxide 2 about the proper propor- the hair careful to n red should not make particularly if you are it only to the d f. When the hair is Ip unusuali 0 e dandruft, it should be mpooed ., and occasionally an egg more beneficial than the oap. mplest recipe yolk of an egg, thoroughly beaten, ounce of rose i of very warm w eral waters. 8 hope that this treatment will benefit you. DOLORES B.—To-da Beauty Talk ur question. 11 answ A. I. D. W—I am very sorry, but I could not make out your letter. AN INQUIRER—Wh; the face is too red for comfort much of the color can be got rid of by active pedestrianism, a well-ventilated bedroom, no tight bands or corsets and a_diet of ripe pears, oranges and figs. Put the hands and feet in hot water, in which is a a little mustard powder, every night. Aveid hot eat very slowly and be out in the ir as much as possible. BLOSSOM—You need have no of hydrogen air. Add to it a of ammonia. This will irs in time and ‘so check deaden the 1 their growth. COMFORTABLE -GOWN FOR "CONSTITUe TIONAL" WALKING.