The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 12, 1899, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 12, 189y howed me a’ gown €d as a model for t »f striped blue yrn_over a ticoai:. .The tunic falls in a point r°the head to ti gingham finely and is tucked or of tucked Elbow sleeves set into a long shoulder seam and trimmed with a turned-back tucked Swiss cuff at the elbow is a new and charming effect for summer sleeves. Long undersleeves of embroidery, close and smooth, will be worn below an elbow sleeve of gingham bracelet of ribbon, with a bow, separating the under sleeve from the upper. Shirred sleeves are always beautiful and unusually 1 2y seem to en- velop the to add to length. The newest s no puffings at all, the Ay into the one seam arm. A sleeve tucked nd minutely in hoops about the s equally pretty and fashionable, especially nice done in white cam- guimpes rs in summer gowns on the inside of the closely are to be £t plain, and where tiny ruffles decolle will not en- houlder: bertha effect of in a flat incrustation is pret- extended over the arms just at the curve of the shoulder, this appliqued to guimpe wh s fast d to and is inte part of the bodice. Embroid- ery is appliqued about the waist line to serve as a belt, and very pretty it looks, ar 1t here and there extending higher or lower than the rest. In front it forms a little corselet effect, and in back are two little tabs turned downward @ver the fitted skirt in a sort of coattail. It is a very new and fetching way to make a belt. The winter girl cannot wait for sum- mer to don the shirt waist. All winter she has been wearing silk shirt waists. But the very latest shirt waist for tue house and under the taflor jacket Is made of white satin. They are consid- ered partic specially if the et wo ver them be lined with white sati sound extrava- ga but white satin shirt waist can be cleaned, and the satin does not crack and wear out like taffeta The white shirt waists are made perfect- plair There should neither be tucks Iy nor cording. The white corded silk and bengaline w are effective. They are made up simply and are fastened with jeweled or crystal buttons. The sleeves are made like dress sleeves and are fin wrist with are ruffles of lac bot of lace worn with these wais them a jaunty They look ather incongruous with the heavy cloth gowns, but it is fashionable to wear them and so they are worn. S The most expensive of all waists rre those of uncut velvet, made with a yoke and narrow vest of lace, and below tae voke a trimming on the velvet of pailettes of different colors and a border ribbon. These waists have small sleeves, with pointed cuffs, completely covered with pailettes and the ribbon trimming. Few black silk or satin waists are worn cept by people who are in mourning. When they are worn they must always have a bri e or some lace at the throat. n ones look particularly well when have rows of the - rding put on the The cording seems to relieve the dead black of the satin. A heavy quality of black satin should never it is too stiff and unylelding— be used; \ W A \l[l( ]l o 9PD 7 4 ol fimfl‘,'““\\\&' A i 4 ,“fl,.w | @ (v B blue cloth applications 2. &reen cashmere gown, the Gown of plain blue cloth, combined with white cloth incrusted with skit with tiny corded tucks. Revers, shoulder puffs and parasol of white moire. Yellow moire vest. A spring hat of Swiss, straw, with colored insertion and entire pheasant. the liberty satin is a good material for anything of this sort. Just now there is a craze for the em- broidered velvets and satins. They are more on the mirror velvet order, with a watered effect, with white embroidered polka dots of white satin or white floss silk. There are also some heavy satins (heavy in quality but light in weight) that make up charmingly into w They are made in as simple a style as possible, the beauty of the material giving them a smart look. They have fitted linings, and some fullness in front. The effect is that of a fitted waist rather than the loose, shapeless things that were the first that were scen. e T But enough for this week of glimpses of the spring in the dress direction. A little millinery information will be more than welcome, we know. The two models we illustrate this week we were very for- tunate in being allowed to sketch. The rage for feather applications and the use of the entire bird has been carried over into these spring models, and the effect ses is extremely chic. Insects be vely in avor s the manufacture by the best hou been very great. Butterflies, dragon-flies, etc., made molines, edged with jet, chenille and velvet ribbon, will be used by those who wish to be exclusive. With these will be combined diaphanous nets and laces, also broad silks. One lovely toque has a small crinkled crown of black straw that looked as if it had been beaded with dull jet, the brim precisely resembling the brim of the vel- vet winter toque, was of velvet silk cov- ered with black molines net and draped in the well-known toque manner. It w: a winter toque reproduced in straw, silk and net. And of course to go with the new spring hats will be hatpins as beautiful and ex- pensive as the jeweler can design. It is modish now to show more of the hatpin than its mere head, so the pins themselves are made ornamental. TR L of The minds of inventive geniuses are t¥rning toward a pin that will stay in the hat without any danger of falling out. Recently there was a patented split that was provided with a little spring which worked by pressure. A very nice hatpin, with a head of am- ber, had an amber fastening accompany- ing it, made secure by a gold chain. The “fastener’”’ was stuck in the hat, so that to lose the hatpin you must lose the hat also. A very special little piece of jewelry is a band of pearls connected with the hat- pin by a gold chain. The pearl band is used as a brooch or as a pin upon the breast. The gold chain dangles from the hat- pin, and makes a pretty bit of finery for the woman who likes fripperies. ~ The band may match the hatpin, and be of any jewels or plain gold. Hat chains are seen on some of the French toques. They are only pins in another guise. One of fine gold and pearls pretended to clasp a huge nosegay of vio- 0000000000000 0000000000000000000C0200COC000CC00C00CCQ CO0000000 one, then another. Her arms ached, and her neck was scratched with the trying. ‘When, at last, a tractable buttonhole was discovered the tiny gold button disap- peared and she thought it had rolled un- der the rug or behind the cozy corner. Then a search for that began, for it hap- pened that she had no other button. It was simply that one or none. 1 shall not dwell upon the detail of that search, but the button was discovered at 1 in a hat box. What tailor made girl has not stood be- fore her mirror hopelessly entangled in the meshes of an Ascot tie—that simple little string that persists in twisting itself no an ‘“‘eld maid’'s knot,”” or wriggling the wrong side out? The tailor made girl's boot string takes advantage of her dependence upon it and breaks just as she is making a hurried toilet. N nother pair to her name, and just twenty minutes to keep her engage- ment! Her hair positively refuses sometimes to part straight, and one persistent tress makes her a half hour late at the play. Spring hat of Russian green straw, with bands of peacock feathsrs and blue velvet bow. lets upon a chenille toque. Of L It only pretended, but what wa tion worth when it looked so nice? TaiLor apE @IRLS The average man would laugh to scorn an asserticn that the tailor made girl has quite as many tantalizing things to con- tend with in dressing herself for that “simple smartnes characterizing her ¢ he himself has in arranging his own faultl, linen. He doesn’'t dream how well groomed femininity has many times a week to suppress wrath akin t that which so freely bubbles between his own lips because of the same aggravating ca- prices of an inoffensive looking collar but ton. It never enters his mind that the fetching Ascot has perhaps caused her to storm up and down before her mirrors, calling on the gods to come down and help her tie the thing. He knows well enough the myriad offenses of his own neckgear and the wrath with which he has pounced upon his laundry king, but the shy little thing at his side—why, of course, she does not know what trou- ble is. The tailor made girl h least suggestion of “fuffine should not 106k fluffy, nor the feathers on her hat. Her shirt waist is hopeless if not thoroughly severe, and her tie must receive just the right twi I have known a girl to spend a solid hour wrestling desperately with stiff col- lars that simply refused to button, first avoid the to ' Her hair A button deliberately flies off her coat she starts for the*door, or she will find a most deplorable dent in her hat crown. 1t is wholly inexplicable, but it is there. A WHEN PAPA’S SICK. ‘N;HE.\' sick, my goodness sakes Such awful, awful times it makes; He speaks in, oh! such lonesome tone: And gives such ghas'ly kind of groans, And rolls his eyes and holds his head, ‘And makes ma help him up to bed. While Sis and Bridget run to hea Hot water bags to warm his feet; And T must get the doctor quick— We have to jump when papa’s sick. When papa’'s sick ma has to stand Right side the bed and hold his hand, While Sis she has to fan an’ fan, For he he’ ‘a dyin’ man,’” the children round him to when ‘“sufferin’ pa And wan Be there gets through he wants to say good by us all and then he'll di Then moans and says his “breathin’s thick’ It's awful sad when papa’s sick. When papa’s sick he acts that way Until he hears the doctor say “You've only got a cold, you know; You'll be all right'n a day or so”; And then—well, say! you ought to see, He's different as he can be, And growls and swears from noon to night Just ‘cause his dinner ain’t cooked right, And all he does is fuss and kick— We're all used up when papa’s sick. —Joe Lincoln in the L. A. W. Bulletin, C0000000000000CO0000C00C0C00C00CCOCO0O0L COVOOCOVOOOCTO0D00 0000000 BEAUTY TALKS: THE CARE OF THE HAIR. By Mme. Hygeia. 000GCO00000000000CO0O002C0000000000C0C0O00CC0000C0000000 Q ] ] o [} [x] (] This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested i n the science of cosmetics anu the hy- giene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects the questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign all communications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. any name that you choose. Address UDGING from the numerous plaints that come my way, half the women of California are th imminent danger of .becoming as baldheaded as a Rocky Mountain eagle. Of all the woes of beauty-seeking femininity this one of tresses that utterly refuse to stay “put” and that insist upon distributing themselves all about the house secms to be the foremost and most appalling. 1 am constantly receiving woe- ful tales of poor. miserable little wisps of halr that roll up into a twist no larger around than a lead pencil, or of exactly fourteén hairs of fourteen different lengths that give every evidence of going the way of all the rest of the members of a once luxuriant family of hairs, Really, it's pitiful! “If a man have long hair it is a shame unto him,” according to St. Paul. But if a woman be the po r of long, luxuri- ant locks it may be the means of redeem- ing a whole host of irregular features. So, girls, it behooves you, if you do not wish to degenerate into a race of women with heads as smooth as billiard balls, to give patient and systematic care to that “glory”” about which lovers have raved and poets sung ever since time was. Really, I do not wonder at the paucity of feminine locks when I see the treat- ment that some women give their hair, 1f an obstinate tangle is encountered they will plunge the comb into the very midst of it and pull and tug until the poor little knotted portion is violently wrenched away from the rest of the hair. When shampooing they will scratch the scalp with the nafls, dig and scrub with the fingers as vigorously as though it were a carpet they were cndeavm’{ng to clean, instead of a mass of dellcate silken etrands. Almost any woman can have pretty hair if she will give a little time to it and use good, common sense, which seems to be such_an uncommon commodity these days. You have no idea how soon, by systematic brushing. a rough or dull head of hair can be transformed into a smooth and shining one. The hair should be brughed regularly every night, chiefly for the purpose of ridding the silky strands of the dust and flaky particles which have accumulated during the day. After the hair has been taken down it should-be untangled and straightened with a coarse comb, then divided from the center of the forechead to the nape of the neck, and brushed on each side until it is oft and glossy looking. Draw the brush firmly t gently over the scalp and down through the entire length of the hafr at each stroke, and, let the strokes follow each other 'in quite rapid , as in this way a slight cur- f electricity is generated, which i\lllmu]ulus the life and growth of the hair. Brushes should have long, uneven bris tles, and should be kept scrupulously clean by frequent washings in ammonia water. Do not put them in the sunlight to dry, but in an open window instead. After the halr has been thoroughly brushed, plait it into two loose bralds. Two braids are better than one, because they permit of better ventilation, lack of which is frequently the cause of falling Halr that been tightly twisted through the day needs relaxation and rest when night comes. 1t is difficult to say how often the hair should be shampooed, as it depends great- Iy upon the nature and quantity of the hair and the condition of the scalp. Hair that is naturally ofly should be washed at least once a fortnight, while hair that is dry should not be given a bath oftener than once a month. The scalp must be kept scrupulously clean. After the hair has been washed it must be well rinsed in several waters, and I doubt if this can be thoroughly done without the use of running water, the bath spray being the most convenient method of getting this. The hair should come out fluffy and soft and there should be absolutely no suggestion of that white, sticky substance that frequently clings to the teeth of the comb after a shampoo. A very delightful shampoo is made by cutting into _small pieces one-half pound of pure castile soap. Put in a porcelain kettle with two quarts of warm water and dissolve by boiling. When cold it should be of the consistency of rather thin cream. If thicker add more water. Stir in one-fourth pint of alcohol and let stand for several days in a warm room. All the alkali and impurities will settle to the bottom of the bottle, leaving the liquid as clear as crystal. Pour this off carefully and perfume with a few drops of essence of verbena. After you have shampooed and thoroughly rinsed your hair with the bath spray dry it with warm towels, and then if u- can get some one to massage the 1p for you it will start up the circulation, invigorate the hair bulbs and almost invariably pre- vent you from taking cold. Do not begin to comb your hair out until it is perfectly dry. A sun bath will do it no end of good and while you are giving it you can busy yourself snipping cff all the little split ends of the bair, which will not grow as long as the ends remain. When the hair is naturally oily add a des- sertspoonful of ammonia and a pinch of borax to two quarts of warm water when shampooing. An occasional egg shampoo is excellent for any sort of a head, par- if one has just recovered from a fever or any illness that ha left the scalp in unhealthy condition. The yolk of an egg, one ounceé of rosemary spirits and one pint of very warm water is a simple recipe and particularly good for dandruff, This condition of the scalp is nearly al- ways the result of neglect. White hair that is inclined to become vellow should be washed with the whites of two eggs, beaten up with a teaspoon- ful of salts of tartar. ‘When the halr begins to fall, one should try first of all to find out what is the real cause of it, and then proceed to ban- ish it. Dyspepsia, worry, overstudy, late hours, anxiety and ili-heaith will al ing about this unhappy condition, and unless the real trouble at the seat of the difficul- ty 1s discovered and corrected. tonics and Jotions will be of little benefit. Orange phosphates, taken before meals, frequently has a good effect upon the hal; keeping it from IBlllngl' out in such terr fying quantities, and it will also inspire it_to more ambitious growth. Very often a firm, invigorating massage of the scalp is all that the hair needs to stimulate its growth. \when the hair is very dry and brittle and-looks as lifeless as a feather boa that has been out in a. rainstorm, then use a little warm olive oil. Sage tea is a good all-round tonic, and will slightly darken the hair. A tonic that is excellent for light hair as it is also for darker locks and which can be ¥afely used by the girl who is af- oming Summer Ounics. Four ounces co- cture of canthar- am each of oil of flicted with qily hair is: logne, one-half ounce ides and one-fourth dr lavender and ofl df rosemary. Apply to the roots of the hair once or twice a day with 2 small sponge. While using thi tonic shampoo once a week with the liquid soap. A splendid cure for dandruff, also a good tonic for falling tresses following: Forty-eight grains T one-half ounce glycerine and enough to fill a two-ounce bottle. Apply every night, rubbing it into the scalp. This will get rid of the dandruff in a jiffy, cleanse the scalp and invigorate the hair Toots. which is is the orein, alcohol Answers to Correspondents. SUBSCRIBER—The redness of vour nose is probably due to the clogged condition of the pores. If you will scrub your face, especial- ly the nose, as suggested to Prudent Prim, the pores will be emptied of their secre- tions and the redness will, in.all probabil- ity, disappear. MARIE W.—Thank you for your very pretty little tribute to the department that I am editing. Here is ‘the formula for the curling fluid: Gum tragacanth, 1% drams; proof spirit, 3 ounces; attar of rose, 3 drops; distilled water. 7 ounces. The recipe for cucumber milk is Ofl of sweet almonds, 4 ounces. Fresh cucumber juice, boiled, 10 ounces. White castile soap, % ounce. Dissolve in: Issence of cucumber, 3 ounces. Tincture of benzoin, 38 drops. Cut the cucumbers into small pieces, re- moving neither the skin nor the seeds, and pour on just enough water to start them to cooking. When cooked soft and mushy, strain through a piece of muslin. The essence you can make yourself by taking one and a half ounces of alcohol and one and a h: of the boiled cucumber uice, A r castile soap and {Pl it stand for a until thé solved. Then put in soap has entirely d your cucumber juice, which . has been Two extremes in spring coats with collars and cuffs of embroidered edges and open over a chemisette. strained and which is cold. Shake until! all are thoroughly mixed. Then pour it | all out into a china or porcelain vessel and add the almond ofl and the benzoin, stirring for some time. When you puf the mixture into bottles, be sure that it is well mixed, else you will get most of the oily matter in one bottle and the | Jjuice in another. It will be a creamy, yellow liquid, and should always be well shaken before using. Apply it at night, letting it dry on the skin, and rin with tepid water in the morning. off all the split ends of your hair an ply sage tea to the roots just before to bed at night. The tea Is le vigorator and has a slight darkening ef- fect as well. Take a handful of the leave: | and boil them into a strong te: Add two | tab!esgounluls‘ of alcohol to h quart. W. M. S.—I have handed your postal over to the man who has charge of the “Answers to Correspondents’” column, in | The Daily and Weekly Call. He will an- | swer your question, as legal questions are not within my province. So please look in_his_column for your answer. HATTIE S.—The best way to get rid of | superfluous flesh is to pa | tion to the die For breakfast eat fresh | uncooked frul Take | neither milk nor sugar in substitute toast for bread and eat spar- | ingly of butter. Avoid fats cereals, | starchy vegetables and pastries. and sweets of all kinds must be rif excluded from the dietary. cold or boiled, are good, if ten in mod- | A eration. Poultry, fish me right. String beans, oes, sp and asparagus may be indulged In: also all kinds of salad, with the oil omitted, of | course. A hot lémonade, with very lit- | tle sugar in it, taken every night, will help. Do not drink much water and take lots of exercise in the open air. There, my little girl ill Tollow those di- rections religiou t you will soon throw | off the ten pounds that are worrying you. | Don't starve yourself, for at your age you need all the nourishment that you can get. TOTT S.—If you will read to-day Beauty Talk you will find all the inform tion you desire about the hair. M the scarred chest with olive ofl night and_the scars will disappear. BLONDY—Apply witchhazel frequently to the red nose and soak the hands and feet in hot mustard water every C. D.—When the nails are vt it is frequently owing to a lack of lime in the system and requires medical tres ment. Try soaking them in warm olive | that often helps. Alum water should be used in case of flabbiness of the skin. It will harden and make the skin more firm. A piece of alum the size of | a bean to a pint of water is the proper | ortion. Proj | AY‘GL'STA—Am delighted that you were | so pleased with the cold cream. The Beauty Talk to-day will enlighten vou upon all those little particulars about the | hair that are bothering you. For the | hollows in the neck massage every night for ten or fifteen minutes with equal parts of lanoline, cocoa butter and cocoa- nut ofl melted togethers Breathing exer- cises are also excellent for filling out the hollow place MRS. . L. P. S.—The following cold cream will soften and whiten the hands nicely: White wax, one-half ounce; spermaceti, one ounce; oil of sweet almonds, four and one-half ounces; borax, one-quarter o090 000000000000 000000COCO0000000000C00 CO00000000C00N000000 ounce; gly oil of rose the oils. erine, one and one- anium, eight” drops Remove from the fire a in the glycerine, borax and perfu briskly until cold and i made ‘of equal parts of vaseline will make the -evelashe brows grow, but vou must be ful not to get it into the eyes. as, it.will irritate and inflame them. Your :physi= AN can give yvou something to create; s appetite. 1°do’rot prescribe medicines. st to become more. fleshy half qunces; Melt. very: ¢ night with.the ointment If it is flabby and > it firmer, then- bathe it in alum wate plece the size.nf a bean in a pint of water is sufficient. Swimming will be of benefit -to you if you do not overdo it. Massage the ‘fine lines about the eves with the orafige flower skin food, or any good skin- food: MAY SUNSHINE. ften be coaxed from its ons T ently pulling smoothing the saucy little feature, I know of no other way of bringing it down. ROSALIE—Sometm a_half:tedspoon= ful of bicarbonate of soda in half 4 glass- ful of water will torrect aeidity. of the stomach. I do not be: for such things, but the soda uch ‘a simple remedy that you might A You will probably be afflicted clal eruptions as long as 'you have stomach trouble. - Please read my chat withs Prudent Prim on-the subject of blackhead: MRS. MABEL G As you did mot’in- close a stamp in your letter ‘I -eould -not send you a personal réply, and, besides, T Very much prefer to- answer. questions through the paper. Dissolve fifteen grains: of borax in two table fuls .of lemon. juice. Apply to the When has dried on, age with a good, pure cold cream. Chis is_the simplest remedy I krow o frecklues. Dampen the little warts with water and rub them two or three times a day with a piece of com- washing soda. will. frequently e them to disap The first, very short, is of. tan cloth, cloth; the other is plain with- stitched SCIENCE GENEROSITY Bring COLOR and Firmness to Your CHEEKS. My system of treatment prevents wear' and tear of vour face. I will give the result of rs of sclentific risearch to any lady inter- ested. THIS TREATMENT FREE TO YOU. There will not be a trace of Wrinkles " Freckles Pimples . Coarse Pores" ETTIE HARRISON'S 5 Ve naerwat Pt E ROt Sufficient treatment will be siven FREE see and understand for-yourself. This offer stands. FOR ONE WEEK. 4-DAY - HAIR RESTORER raded No disagreeable after effects, $1 00, SUPERFLUOQUS HAIR Permanently removed by the Electric Needle as operated by me. ' |LOLA MONTEZ CREME 1s a skin purifier and tissue bullder without an Imparts the natural color to gray or hair. Not a dye, nor stickiness. equal on earth. It is a natural skin food. 75¢ jar lasts 3 months. TRIAL POT Ladies out of town sending this ad. with 10c in stamps will receive a book of instructions | and a box of Lola Montez Creme and Face Powder FREE. | Visit me and see what may be done for you. MRS, NETTIE HARRISON- DERMATOLOGIST, | 40-42 Geary Street, San Franeiseo- ‘ =