The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 15, 1899, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JANUARY 15, 1899. 27 fiwe/ed 3qrt‘ers.' ot forget the duated from s school. He s brimful ana .t least one, ofttimes half a 1. pairs of beautiful garters gift-laden stockings, idens who love ith bejeweled, <ed garters. baubies were left 5 lady” wore elastic, the decorating dest ng the ribbons plain black stk of the costly scintillating seduetive- footlights had its effect wife. Madam bought a ain gold or silver Ik garters. the plain garter's slow but certain to itury garter, brazen but honest parents, through the se gaining a stronge each y fancy 1 pa t The most popular holi- , from a girl friend, was Al the ading them in unusuaily > sale was enormous, s have a diffe > week. rounc ters bear elab- 1 silver buckles upon their Side garters for health, round garters. For the give the make in kling diamonds was gift for one of our vour garters sparkle with the better. arter is a fleur-de-lis in gold. A represents a four-leaved clover, er a horseshoe and four- over combined. lcaf clovers are put through a process and then used. A clover, which perh rom_its’ hiding the air in some my lady’'s garter incased in glass med in gold ires framed rose wishing somet an the gem covere h less expensive are the 1d with stone: topazes or turqu ing the sterling or o3 in gold are fancied mel has found favor design will 1ate maiden has flag. Rubles, set in the forming the is and blue. et of a is a garter designed ) carry a irt is true” the same urbed. But the fickle sach new moon another om the tiny circlet the modern maid does sleeve, she her stocking. s. a tour of the and I have stumbled ng fact. Dressmakers’ 's carried havoc in thelr > comic weeklies have the breakf: ' doing the St teeth, weeping and nakers yver these self-same making ps 3 3 are having thelr bills. that though their prices are 1 their customers as are much o raise thei fate. e falling off in profits ker cannot turn out as week as of yore. There is k on each gown that it keeps twice as long on each gar- Any gown that verges is sent to a tailor. Elaborate er and ball gowns fall to the * lot. countless spangles to be te designs to be worked erskirts of chenllle to be er some pattern; in mple the tout ensemble n countless more stitches n were necessary in the gowns ywever elaborate the bodice it close fitting, so that several fit- always necessary. Gray Reception Gowns. he rite color this The hand- s to be eception gown! mest.one 1 have seen was worn by a & matron at Mrs. Mills' tea. The irt is of a very delicate shade of pearl . It 1s in tunic effect, but the skirt 1 one piece, with an attached e deep at the back, narrow The skirt is fastening on one s begins a ruffle 1 to the foot of the skirt into a wide flounce. is of gray satin, tight fitting nd open in front to show a oat covered with ruffles of entire jacket is em- half-moons in steel are wide revers and a e back. This Is a gown g to éither blonde or bru- ch is qu very ) front - Barbaric Boas. hoas are simply barbaric— but pronouncedly con- e immense in size and hed with fac-similes of paws and tafls. Many ome quite to the hem is array of the fero- he big muff, with its ils, and it is little won- der that the caricaturist finds in the swellest habiliments of fur his richest Tesources, HRILLS OF RassIon. HE latest hat in Paris is shaped very much like a square breastplate, with a narrow turned-up brim and me- dium crown, and loaded down with flowers of all sorts and kinds. Hand-painted mousseline de sole is the material for your most elegant evening dress if you would be in the latest fashion. These gowns are made with tunics edged with fine lace. and the painting is done after they are cut and fitted, so that each seam is decorated, and the color is used t0 give the effect of shading down from the bodice, deepening in tone to the edge. One novel feature of the season's even- ing sleeve is the open space just below the point of the shoulder when a long or el- bow length transparent sleeve is worn. A narrow strap extends over the shoulder, and the top of the sleeve is cut away in a sort of half-moon to show the prettiest part of the arm. Belts have become g0 conspicuous a fea- ture of dress that a whole volume might be written about them without giving an accurate description of the beauty and ich meet your eve at every cession of enameled flowers with diamond centers strung together, with a space between, on two gold chains, is one of the expensive novelties; but there are all s of silver. gilt, oxidized silver, and fancy metal belts and buckles for from $ up to a very much higher price. 4 The particular one you want usu- ally b runs up in price, but very pretty les can be purchased for $3. Any width of belt seems to go: the important thing is to have a belt; but the very nar- row ones are most generally liked, and vastly more becoming than the wide ones. They give a touch of brightness to the gown which nothing else can, and belts of some description are worn with every sort of gown, whether it is for evening or day use, and with every sort of a coat, long or short. Brown cloth gowns seem to have gained favor late In the season, and the special fancy for trimming is a mixture of orange and blue. Violet cloth, em- broidered in white moire applique with black and steel, is also very pretty with brown and the usual accessories of cream Gold thread is worked in with chenllle in many of the new embroideries, and braid mixed with lace and chenille is an- other combination in trimming. —e— ¢yrawno (¢walus. OME wiseacre should make remarks upon the prevalence of several sorts of endless chains. The windows of the shops where jewelry noveltles are sold are hung with countless strings colored gla: beads, named for un- known reasons “Cyrano” chains. The fancy for wearing purse or lorgnette or other knicknack on a long chain around the neck has revived and increased. Some chains are composed entirely of uncolored cut crystals the size of peas. Others are of alternating black and white, blue and white, brown and white, all pearls, all amber, or, choicest in the ordinary collec- tion, cut and polished coral, alternating with fine crystals. Every dress color may be matched in these glass bits, and it is the thing for a girl who can afford it to own half a dozen Cyrano chains, in as many hues, to blend with her costumes. She who cannot revel in much glass se- lects beads of black or white or blue and white. It is becoming unusual to see a carefully dressed woman without some trinket on a fanciful string around her neck. e UNIQUE of HE present craze for earrings has found many women whose ears have not been pierced, and women often hesitate to inflict upon themselves what will be a disfiguration when the fashion shall have gone the way of all fashio: But the new earrings need no pilercing of ears, for they are simply a bit of gold filigree that catches the lobe of the ear and may or may not support v a New York exchange. Neck re worn with every kind of a cos- tume. and heavy gold ones, with no rai- son d’etre save to carry a locket or orna- ment, are becoming more and more pop- ular. A profusion of jewels seems to be the fashion this season, and the jewelers pronounce the ruby to be the most fash- onable stone. It is the proper clasp for the pearl dog collar that is worn even with elaborate high-necked gowns. e BRACELETS TBE RAGE. VERY girl who aspires to keep pace with the changing fancies of fash- ion is wearing or wishes to wear a plain, heavy gold circle on her left wrist. Just now this is the popular fad in bracelets, and it bids fair to supersede the lock and chain, which style has been in favor for some time past. It is simply Flowers Used for Trimming Are Perfumed Like the Natural Blossoms. Fashion’s Latest Fad a lari:e ring, without opening, not unlike the plain gold ring for the finger, about a quarter to half an Inch broad, and Is, of course, large enough to slip over the hand. The simplicity of this dainty or- nament is in pleasing contrast to the lavishment of design shown in most of the accessories of the toilet at present, and this accounts doubtless for a part of its popularity. hough the plain ones are most in de- mand, some very pretty bracelets are fin- ished with from one to seven stones set across the back. For this purpose tur- quoise is the most popular stone, though all of the semi-precious stones are used, particularly those which are opaque, as this bracelet Is supposed to be worn at all times. The very newest thing in bracelets for evening wear i8 a narrow gold ring with a_ bangle, which is formed of a single chain about four or five inches long, set at short intervals with large stones. Each gem s different, and all are ar- ranged with deference to some definite color scheme, one shade blending gradu- u!ny into or else contrasting sharply with the next. Wrars Hug TsE FIGURE. VERYTHING now points to an ap- parent narrowing of the whole fig- ure. The shoulder seams are longer, the sleeves are smaller, and the princess lines will for successfully built grwns prove fatal to belts and girdles of all kinds. effects Increase daily, and to add to the effect of height and slenderness, the new- est trains are narrow and somewhat scant, terminating in quite a decided oint. Closely fitting shoulder capes of ur hug the figure and run down to round- ed or pointed ends behind, while they are Long, narrow skirts in double, air, and Master Parrot was fortifled against {t. He wore a coat, or a blanket, or whatever you like to call it, of green velvet, made of two pieces, just the shape of a turtle’s shell. One piece hung over his chest. The other protected his back, and the two pieces were joined to a kind of collar. A bicycle stood at the curb- stone. The lady set the utterly self-pos- sessed bird on the handle bar, mounted and rode away. I sald to myself that ob- viously there was a woman who was— well, who had been having ‘‘Miss” on her visiting card since hoop skirts were in fashion, but when I asked the very next woman I met about it she told me that the parrot’s mistress not only has a hus- band. but a real live baby, too.—~Washing- ton Post. —_—— HAVE YOU BEEN TRIGKED BY THIS MAN? ERHAPS you have already bought nine flower pots with choice plants. If so, commisera- tions! Perhaps you have not bought nine flower pots with choice plants. If so, felicitations! For though countless people in this city have paid for the privilege of pos- sessing those self-same pots, not one of the purchasers has ever so much as caught a whiff of their fragrance. The reason is a simple one. The plants are not children of the sun and dew and earth. They are nothing but the blossoms of an impostor’s imagina- tion. So if a glib, fairly well-dressed man offers to let you have nine flower pots providing you pay for moving them, hold fast to him. He's the man half of San Franecisco is looking for. When they find him, his flower-strewn path will be changed to one of thorns. He is in _the flower business, but he does not ply his trade with gardener's implements. A ready tongue, a facile wit and a convincing manner are his stock in trade. ‘With variations, to suit the occasion, the following is the pitfall which he digs for his victims: “Hello, Jones, old man!™ obliged to you. Come and have some- thing before you go. So in addition to pocketing all the way from 25 cents to $1 on this scheme this flower-pot fraud usually gets some liquid refreshment in addition. And worst of all, Mr.'J. immediately tele- phones home to Mrs. J. ‘‘HeHo!*" = “I've got some new plants for you, beauties.” ““What kind? Oh, pinks, and two Am- erican Beauties, and—I forget what the rest are. I think he said nine, *No, no, not much. I don’t have to buy them. They're in pots already, pretty ones, too. Good-by."™ Then for two long days Mr. and Mrs. J. watch in vain for the plants that never come. At nightfall Mr. J. steals out, a sadder and wiser man, and by patronizing the florists, quiets a mock- ing tongue. This plant philanthropist does not show any undue partiality toward his own sex. Almost as many women have been duped. He wards off sus- picion by jocularly remarking as he de- parts with the necessary money to move the plants: “Don’t be surprised if I never come back. 1 may spend this in riotous living.” His seemingly hon- est countenance and this joking man- ner of throwing suspicion on himself are marvelous aids in .disposing of these ubiquitous nine flowering pots. Some very queer conincidences have developed from the purchase of these vanishing flower pots. A prominent merchant on Kearny street bought them. Now he can tell at a glance whether a fabric is all-wool or not. But the flower faker pulled the wool over his eyes on the flower pot question. R It happened that on the same even- ing after the salad was served. his wife casually mentioned that she had bought a bargain. Now the merchant, being in the bar- gain business, objects to his wife buy- ing bargains. He has marked $20 suits down to $30 too often himself to be caught at the bargain counter. “Nonsense,” he answered. “But that reminds me, my dear, I captured what you'd call a bargain to-day that really is a bargain.” “But so is ‘mine,” protested the wife. > B RN 0. \& B COTILLION FAVORS WILL BE WORN BY THE DANCERS. still much shortened in front, and so great is the closeness of some wraps in this style that certain ones have slits to let the hands out at each side. These nar- rower effects have one point in their favor —they are certainly warmer than the erstwhile stiffened flutes. Even the flar- ing collar, with its ruffied fullness, has given place to the close dog collar in many wraps for theater, carriage or the promenade. e Bath is suffering from an epidemic of twins, six sets having been recently contributed by colliers’ wives in the Earl of Warwick's colllery, near the city, and two others providing triplets. ————— A woman came out of a tailor's estab- lishment on G street Wednesday morn- ing and I could not but turn and stare at her. On her left forefinger sat an im- perturbable parrot. There was a faint suggestion of frosty sting in the sunny 09060 $0 8060 H0H0H 0 0H0H0B0 $0HO Q@0P0POPOSOSOS0P Jones—Hello! met this fellow? “Still living Jones?"” Jones—Yes; same place. “Well 1 helped an expressman move a family out of that neighborhood. and they left nine flower pots with mighty fine plants. Landlord doesn't want them. Thought perhaps you might.” Jones—Of course I do. My wife is crazy about flowers. But how can I get them? “Well, I could bring them to the house. They're too heavy to carry at once, though. I'll have to take the car and make several trips.” Jones—All right; here's a dollar. That’s all right, don't mention it; you don’t know how much car fare it will take. They're dirt cheap at that. Much (aside) where have I on Webster street, ints on How to Be Beautiful. By- Mme. Hygeia. $00d08090B00000909090800H0808080®000®0d0d090H00BB0S 0d oo 09CH080606°6060 909080000 “I bought some flowers for—"" “Flower: interrupted the merchant, “and paid fancy florist’s prices for them, of course. Now, I bought some plants myself te-day. How much do you thick I paid for them?" “‘But they can’t be as cheap as those I bought. [ got mine for nothing, jus: had to pay the man for moving them.” “Moving them!” and the merchant pricked up his ears. “Where are those plants?” “They haven’t come yet. I guess the rain kept the man from bringing them.” The next instant both explanations clashed together. Both husband and wife had bought the plants. Their stories dovetailed exactly. Same man, same flower pots, same plants—two roses, two pinks, etc. ®0P0H090P090H0HCHOR0SOHOS0 GO @ o@®oPodo®odo Qood s 0®000®cdcO® 0o 0® 0P oy This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- glene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to Mme. Hygeia, ROM the vast number of distress- ful wafls that come to me from all directions I have about de- cided that superfluous hair is the gource of more anxiety and worry to womankind than almost any other facial blemish. Even the first gray hatr, which strikes such horror to a woman'’s soul—also the first wrinkle—are obliged to take a back seat as a cause of unhappiness to the mind feminine. It cer- tainly would be much more civil of the hair if it would grow “on the top of the head, in the place where the hair ought to grow,” instead of persisting in distrib- uting itself all over the face, where well regulated hair has no business to grow. To get rid of it is an easy matter, but to prevent its coming back is much more difficult. Even if it would come back alone and unattended one might put up with it, but in almost every case not only does it persistently return, but it brings with it all “its sisters and its cousins and {ts aunts.” There are two kinds of superfluous hair. There is a kind called lanugo, which is mere down, soft and often very thick in growth, that appears upon the upper lip, the lateral parts of the face and upon the outer side of the arms. The other kind of superfluous hair con- sists of stiff, isolated hairs, that are often seen upon the chin and upper lip, par- ticularly in women of dark complexion. The same treatment does not equally S P re several methods by which superfluous hair may be removed, The commonest of these is by means of depil- atory powders, which are usually com- osed of sulphide of arsenic or caustic ime. These, however, merely burn the hairs off and, of course, the roots bein, unaffected, the hairs will reappear an the depilatory must be used again. There has never been any article made that could Kkill the roots without destroy- ing the skin. e second method of removing super- fluous hairs is by means of tweezers or of a resin stick, which is heated to melt- ing point. put en the balry part and after a moment’s contact with the skin sharply withdrawn, when, of course, the hairs wiil come with it. 5 However, when pulled with tweezers or removed In this" way, it but scatters the root, as a rule, and three or four hairs will return in the place of the one re- moved. Then there Is the solvent method, which claims to dissolve the roots. It is neces- sary to use the tweezers or resin stick in connection with this method, which is sup- gt)sed to dissolve the natural fat of the air follicles and thereby render the hairs loose and easy to pluck out. Lastly, there is the galvanic_method, which is known as electrolysis. This con- sists of inserting a needle as fine as a hair into the hair follicle and destroying the hair by the electric current. This loosens the hair, which is then removed by means of tweezers. A slight redness sometimes followed by the formation of a slizht gu!lule, results from the operation, which, owever, soon disappears. If the opera- tor is skillful experienced no scar should result, Even this method {s not always success- ful, for if the base of the follicle is not reached by the needle the halr will sprout again and the operation will have to be repeated. Of couge electrolysis is only applicable to the separate, stiff hairs, as it would be an intolerably tedious pro- cess if applied to mere down, and the time and trouble it would involve would cost a fortune. A smoothly cut piece of pumice stone rubbed over the face each day, will kee the hairs worn down to the surface o the skin so that they are not discernible. Or, if the hairs are dark, apply Peroxlde of hydrogen, to which a little iquid ammonia has been added. The peroxide will bleach the hairs and the ammonia will sometimes deaden the little pests after long usage. The down or soft hair, which grows on nearly every one's cheeKs, it is much wiser to leave severely alone. It is not nearly as noticeable to others as we fancy it is, and a depllatory powder is almost certain to make the hair grow In coarser and thicker. . an Answers to Correspondents. M. V. W.—I think you will find the com- The Sunday Call, San Francisco. plexion brushes in any of the large drug stores, or any place where complexion articles are carried. A fairly good one costs about 75 cents, although the higher priced ones, of course, are better. If you do not succeed in finding one send me a stamped addressed envelope, and I will send you the name of a man who keeps them. GRACE—You are right when you say that true beauty comes from wighin, for there is nothing under the blue dome so beautifying as sweetness, brightness and g00d nature. However, we can add to these cleanliness, health and a few nice dabby little things to put on our cheeks and noses. I don't particularly approve of using pure cream on the SKln. for I think it makes it more susceptible to the effects of wind and sunlight. You are too yvoung to begin “‘fixing up,” as you ex- press it. A little harmless powder will not injure your complexion, gut don't, 1 beg of you, use rouge. Get the roses of health ‘in your cheeks by following a strictly hygienic method of living, such as I have given rules for many times in these talks. After cleansing the skin with tepid water and castile soap mas- sage it &enfly with the orange flower skin food. Vhen the skin seems dull and life- less a patting exercise will help it. Y this I mean just a gentle tattoo with the fil\fers over the entire face. I think the following astringent wash will be better for your skin than the cucumber milk, on account of the coarse pores: Take a half- pint bottle and place in it three table- spoonfuls of eau de cologne. Shake wel]l and add very slowly half an ounce of simple tincture of benzoin, shaking the mixture now and then. Fill the gotlle with elder flower water. Be sure that there are no settlings in the benzoin else it will be apt to curdle the lotion. This will whiten the skin and gradually con- tract the pores. If, when washing the hair, you will use as’'a shampoo the yolk of an egg, well beaten in a pint of ‘dis- tilled water, and one ounce of rosemar; spirits T think you will find the hair wiil be left quite soft and glossy. Wash and massage the scalp thoroughly with this and be sure and rinse in three or four waters. The corset waist spoken of I fear cannot be gotten here, unless made to order. Those that I saw. were in tha A SHORT-SKIRTED COSTUME FOR MUDDY WEATHER THAT SENSIBLE. East. T do not want you to even think of making any sort of return to me for any advice that I may give vou. I am leased to answer any questions that may e put to me. That is what I am here for. Write again. ESSIE D.—The hair tonic that you had prepared will do equally as well as IS CHIC AS WELL AS accomplished by careful dieting. All sorts of injuries can come about by trying rem- edies that are said to make the bust smaller. MAUD—For the excessive perspiration put a little baking powder in your bath, Maud, and after drying the body care- fully dust the parts affected with a pow- the one I advised. They are practically der made of one part boracic acid, two the same. If you will always use the of precipitated chalk and Seven yolks of two eggs well beaten with a of powdered talcum. pinch of borax and a pint of warm water when you wash your hair the golden tints will bé less likely to vanish. XY EE —A lunar caustic pencil will remove the wart. Touch the center of the wart lightly with the pencil once a day, DIA—I would rather not,give for- taking great care not to get caustic on mula for a depilatory powder. In fact, I any other part of the skin. The wart have none that I am perfectly sure would wiil turn black and gradually disappear. prove harmless. However, you can get them in any drug store, if you wish to take the chances. The pumice stone will have exactly the same effe Possibly to-day's Beauty Talk will contain a hint for you. L. H. 8.—You ask about oily skins. Last Sunday’s Beauty Talk contained a fund of information on this point. An excel- lent bust and neck food i{s made by mix- ing equal parts of cocoa-butter, lanoline and cocoanut oil. No, I really do not think that hair can be made to grow upon a head that has been bald for years. At any rate I have no knowledge of any pro- cess by which such a result might be brought about. I am sorry. f the wart is very large I would advise you to go to a dermatologist to have it removed. As it is on the eyebrow of course any of the hairs that are touched with the pencil will fall also. ARDATH—The hair will continue to fall so long as you do not get rid of the dan- druff on your scalp. he following rem- edy I am quite sure will help you: Forty- eight grains of resorcin, one-half ounce of glycerine-and alcohol enough to fill a two- ounce bottle. Apply once a day with a sponge. Shampoo the halr every two weeks with the liquid soap referred to in foregoing reply to Miss H. I do not care for tar soap for the halr. Its qualities MiSS H.—1 have never known of a case {T€ VeIy much overestimated. Let me similar to vours. Were I in your place KNOW how vou progress. T should also hesitate to use grease of MISS AGNES—Isn't it singular that any sort upon my face. There is some- 8ray hair'is considered so beautiful by thing abnormal about such condition €Very one, save the unhappy possessor of and my best advice to vou would be to it? There is nothing that will darken the ist. The cu- hair but a dye, and, really, I wouldn't consult a skilled dermatologist. cumber lotion cannot possibly injure vour skin and may be arnlied undiluted with a small sponge or soft cloth. Once a day will be often enough to apply it. Use the following tonic on the falling hair: Four ounces eau de cologne, one-half ounce tincture of cantharides, and one-fourth dram each of oil of lavender and oil of rosemary. Apply to the roots once or twice a day with a small sponge. Sham- 00 every ten days with the liquid soap, Formula for which was given last Sunday in reply to Pacific. Did you see 1t? WAST OAKLAND—I think you will find ail the Information you wish in to-day’s Beauty Talk. The dérmatologist that you went to is all right as far as removing superfluous hairs is concerned. A tonic made of equal parts of cocoanut oil and vaseline will make the evelashes grow, rest well at night if I feit' that I had been a party in a hair-dying scheme. I think what "your hair needs is nourish- ment at the roots. A very little olive ofl, slightly warmed and well rubbed into the scalp with the tips of the fingers, will help you, I am sure. If you will take an iron tonic, prescribed by a physician, per- haps those little white hairs will become discouraged and cease putting in an ap- pearance. The chin and neck can be massaged down to smaller proportions b; picking up the flesh between the thum and forefinger, and rolling and rubbing as much you possibly can, without injur- ing the skin. Then. in order to prevent the flesh from getting flabby, the neck and chin must be bathed in cold water in which a small piece of alum the size of a bean has been dissolved. Of course but I always hesitate to recommend it, 88 the skin must be smeared ‘with cold it is exceedingly difficult to apply with- cream before beginning the massage. out getting it into the eves. If any of Your question about the electric nee it does get into the eyes it will smart and you will find_ answered in to-day's the eyes become inflamed. Beauty Talk. I have not thought your MISS ANNETTE JONES—Do not try questions foolish by anIy manner of means, but most natural. I thank you for your kindly wishes. MHE} HYGEIA. to reduce the size of your bust except by a general reducing of flesh, which can be A GOWN OF MAUVE MOIRE, TRIMMED WITH RUCHINGS OF MOUSSELINE Df SOIE, APPLIED IN REDINGOTE. THE CORSAGE IS MADE WITH TWO LONG- POINTED FRONTS OF IRISH GUIPURE, SO SHAPED THAT THEY MEET UNDER A CRISP BLACK BOW WIRED IN LOUIS XVI FORM,