The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, November 13, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, NOVEMBER 13 1898. 27 0000000000000 000Q000 LATEST in 0000000 c c (4] [ © ° © o ¢o Q. 7 OUR underskirt must be made \./// to your bulld. The \( ch it is made to the ch a.tention to the outer kirt is prop- ssible to have the out- perly. : bought ready made le of average build. s t or too slim it is better ; nderskirt made to order to s build. It is sure to > th outer garm - stout women fullness of It the tting it The the un- h a yoke. he figure the silk g: > that is-too not be made w s in t ing and ways preferable to have it in the unde ather than in the skirt The white muslin underskirt is rarely downtow . It seen s been relegated prope position indoor can be prettier than a muslin trimmed in embroide r of simple eleganc pout it t beruffies under- e dust hideou ng cos- for every toilet, but whether it blend: quantities of pr the ruffles and puffs rranged in such divers lere are no duplicates to s for ball gowns are ma 1des of violet, pink along with an _un! satin skirts. th innumerable frills soie and other gauzy ma- worn _with boudoir s_elaborate, though stic feature is the the front gore. It under the loose e 1 show ntended fer visit- signed to.be worn ume there Is less latter, though, are quite below 'the shoe- 1 their dainty trimmings, afford to be trailed along ddy winter side: ks ot of the wom er favorite_color for They -are graduating nots_ appliqued : new and pretty. d with a nish for the are made to the front gore. nd to remain in- ot_stand nded for k, then a. For it lined. s flan- oat. ‘the I outwear two under- ining. 1k the most accept- flounces St t i gh the you use, remember 6 wear is one fash- build of the wearer, it g d; other- ssible for and UNDERSKIRTS CO0000000000000C00000C0C0000CCC0000000 C0CC00000000000000 LINGER 0000000000000 VO00 skirt to fit perfectly unles: skirt be properly fashioned. Bawp-PaINTED DRESSES. the der: NE of the latest ideas from Pa wedding pres- ent, for. one to glve an- other, is a novel as well asan exceed- ingly pretiy ome. Th on just come in of wearing with painted 1s and_cuffs. is done metimes other lit- tle satin, or = insects, is on chif mousseline de s ] town now wh collar, cape be in girl a ist before Chris e blue satin, and are of wild roses. They 3 bands are and front, and the form a sort of cape, will be most effective. quite the fad for the ir dresses, d if they winter with col with shoulder- It is becon girls to pa ome of the come out th beautiful that ‘they have shown to their ey will create a sen- sation. O painting for herself an entire nd trimmings for a bod- eline de soie, which 1s he deslgn is red popples ere and there she has butterflies, with_span- The 'spangles, of sewed om, and to the effect. To her lovely costume made herself an ex- ¥ to wear in her hair. It is material as the gown, de _sofe, and is painted on of a butterfly caught t to copy the color- re wired with the finest ad and body are made of re spangles, the ed from a black gs are dotted ht spangles. g at least four , and the whole on a strong piec efully ice on b a work of and gras put pretty gled wi course, I they add thoroughly y expensive to require much WHISTSV whi. A® FASHION J/\ from n ngl and they are promise popular d fetching, t rival to the e = “a close follows lines” of d some displayed the ar 3 ing colors and made fTer silk. others are made of plain silk, to show a white vest and collar, others come in dainty French and Scotch gingham. To the man who objects to the severity of a i collar and the masculin- d shirt fronts, and Ascots, of stripes Again, and st ties, this opens out endless possibilities e soft feminine touches so dear of aur women still. L g SR TRINGS of jet beads d ed by links of gold—just the old fash- joned sort like our mothers used to wear—were the first that were introduced this season, them come the colored gl in_the same way as the jet. Long 2] &1 doted on glass and now following beads linked beads. ggestive of the original American girl, the Indian maid, you say? Well, maybe, but what of that? Glas: beads are pretty things-in effect is many times qui good as So glass beads the girl with a pretty will wear. In a leading jewelry shop the other day 1 was shown amber colored, blue and clear white glass beads. Ther festooned together (three strings) by clasps of gold." The top string was short, follow- ing just the line of the neck, the next a little longer and the third longer still. Gold is used for the links and clasps silver, though st 00 _ea: and does not gold. colored glass beads are wonderfully be- coming. There are glass beads for street as well as evening wear. For donning with street dresses they are in four or five short .0 strings to form a stock and set up close around the collar In the familiar dog col- lar style. If you have a slender gold chain that® you wore in your baby days, bring it forth from its u.ding place and wear it about your neck with your evening bodices with a miniature attached as pendant. If you have & real old fashioned/ miniature of one of your ancestors, framed about by pearls, you are fortu- nate indeed. An opal cameo is also a fashionable perdant. Strings of coral beads are also much sought. The Strings of rough corai are particularly attractive, and ~coral orna- ments are considered just the proper thing for quite voung beiles. It has been a long time since necklaces have been as fashionable as they are just now. NEWEST GOLOR: Narioval SLUE is a new blue, and it is own—national blue it is HERE all our called. We have borrowed from the Ruropeans royal blue, that bright blue that several royal houses “YOU MUST HAVE AN have doted on, and then there are many other blues, but the national blue is ours and it will be very patriotic to wear it. Indeed, red, white and blue will figure conspicuously in the gowning of this and the coming season, though not in combin- ation. White gowns, blue gowns, and r gowns are leaders. The reds are in lovely shades as the blues. For evening home wear all-white gowns are to have o (] (] (] o o [] © an immense vogue. It may not be un- usual, so you see, to find in one drawing- room at teas and receptions a gay plc- ture with the national colors running through it. Among. other colors there Is emerald enjoying a revival, and a sea-green that ,comes from Paris and is called Neptune. The reds include coquelical, cerise ‘and geranium, crimson. fuchsia and petunia, and a red of pale purplish hue that some- what resembles magneta. The popular grays are piatine, aluminum, nickel and silver. Violet in various shades and dah- lia in a readish purple are also extremely popular. ORNAMENTED bar Pins tive &enluses are turning toward a len at will stay in the hat, past all danger of falling out. Recently there OW that hat pins are selling for §1000 downward the minds of inven- was a patented split that was provided With & ifttie spring which worked by pres- sure. VA very nice hat pin, with head of am- ber, had an amber fastener accompany- UNDERSKIRT FOR EVERY TOILET," Ing it and fastened by a gold chain. The “fastener” was stuck in the hat, so that to lose the hat pin you must losé the hat also. A very ultra little piece of jewelry is a band of pearls connected with the hat pin by a goid chain. The pearl band is used as a brooch or as a pin upon the breast. The gold chain dangles from the hat pin and makes a very pretty bit of finery for By Mme. Hygeia. the woman who likes “fixings.” The band may match the hat pin and be of any Jjewels or plain gold. Any device is good so long as it holds the pin, and when you reflect that every tener is easily computed. pasp Kubs deal of emphasis is laid on the sash will have its ends cut In a series hatchet shape. A swallow fork or a bias and a llihtnlng edge is what many a of those thunderbolts the active American vear there are hundreds of dollars lost n hat pins the economy of a little fas- AR HIEFLY grenadine and limonsine ribbon are worn now. A great manner’ in which you shape your ribbon ends. A wide, crisp ribbon of flve deep toothlike indentations, while very many women cut their streamers in shear, so long the only orthodox courses in ribbon clipping, have been set aside, sash end boasts. A lghlnlni edge is just a series of irregular jags, like the course eaf‘e grasps, and a good many sashes are snipped out to reseglbla a bellows point, SAYS DAME FASHION, or carved at their terminus to convey the idea of an Indian arrowhead. If a pair of herrings could be left to breed and multiply undisturbed for a period of twenty years they would yield an amount of fish equal in bulk to the globe on which we live. 000000O09000000000000000000OOOOOOOOO000000000900000O03 Breathing Exercises as an Aid to Beauty. [} (] o [ © © CO0000000NC00N000T0000NCO00000000N000000000002000000000 o This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- giene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you please and sign any name that you choose. Address ET the girl who Is striving for de- velonment of chest and bust, sloping shoulders and a round, slender and pretty waist see to it hat her breathing apparatus is conducted in the way. In which it should be. That sounds awfully commonplace, I know, but really there are very few women who know how to breatne prop- NOVEL FLE)UNCES DSPLAYED BY THE NEW PETTICOATS! all communications to Mme. Hygeia, You probably do not realize it, but improper breathing brings about many flis. not only produces symp- toms of consumption, but makes the waist unduly large for the simple reason that the chest is not held up where it should be and the internal organs are crowded out of their places, thus spread- ing the waist in an unsightly way that usually denotes deficient vitality. The woman who sings or who has gone in for vocal culture almost lnvnr(ablf‘ has a fine figure, fu., rounded throat, weil poised head, firmly set shoulders and easy carriage. She has learned from the start that in order to breathe properly she must hold up her chin and expand-her lungs, so that every breath will come from the abdomen and not from the chest. Good breathing strengthens the muscles and makes the flesh firm. Corsets are a great detriment to proper breathing, Fartlculnrly if laced in as some women will insist upon having them. The waist must be absolutely free from compression, for the lungs cannot be Eroperly inflated if the thorax is laced in y méans of stays or squeezed by tight frocks. There are no two ways about it—lacing is injurious and she who indulges in this hideous practice might as well take a back seat at once in the ranks of beauty. It stands to reason that anything that compresses the ribs and squeezes up to- gether the stomach and liver and all the other vital organs is detrimental to health, and if you're not healthy you haven’t much of a show for beauty. If I had my way I would gather up all the corsets in Christendom and send them out to the heathen in Patagonia to spank their . bables with. There are corset walsts with elastic bands on either side which contract and expand with each breath that the wearer takes, and these are the only sensible, healthful things to_wear. However, to return to the breathing ex- ercises. The best time for these is in the morning just after getting out of bed, There must be plenty of alr in the room, and the body must be absolutely untram- meled with close clothing of any descrip- tion. Place your hands on your hips and walk slowly across the room, your chest held upward and outward, and every breath coming deeply from the abdomen. After several trips there will be qfults a feeling of exhaustion. Rest for a few moments, and then try again. Each morning you can make the exercises longer, and soon the muscles that hold the chest up will become strong and firm, and there will be but little fatigue. You can vary the ex- ercise by taking as long a breath as pos- sible and holding it for several seconds. Practice this five or ten minutes each morning. Remember that the most important part of these exercises is to get into the habit of standing perfectly erect, with the shoulders J’ back and the chest up. The best authorities condemn thoracie or upper chest breathing. Keep the chest up and out, and let the expansion be at the walst line. Inhale slowly and smoothly as much alr as you can, swelling out the lower chest at the sides, just below the arm-pits, as the air is drawn Hold this alr five seconds. Then exhale it, slow- 1y and#‘nduluy crushing in the rib: gently mmohmdluth“nrmo\n 0 erly. The Sunday Call, San Francisco. out. During the exhalation be sure to keep the upper chest still, .Do not let it sink, as it will be apt to if not restrained by an effort of the will. Inhale again, and hold the breath for ten seconds, then for fifteen seconds and finally for twenty seconds. This exercise will do for the first day. Make no motion suddenly; the more slow- ly and gently the exercise is performed the greater will be the benefit. Regular daily practice of these exer- cises will increase the breathing capac- ity and will result in enlargement of the lungs and development of the chest. If continued religiously there will' be an in- crease of four or five inches in your chest measure in the course of a year. There will also be no end of improvement in your general carriage and figure, and correct breathing will lead right up through health and strength to beauty. ehsica Tl ety Answers to Gorrespondents. LILLTAN—I am delighted that you~were so successful with the cold cream and that you find it of such benefit. You are right not to steam your face, as It does not agree with your skin. The cucumber milk must have ferment- ed. Perhaps you did not keep it in a cool place. It should be a creamy yellow liquid. As long as yours does not seem to be quite right I would advise you not to use it. You can preserve the cucumber Juice so’that it will last a long time by dissolving a tiny pinch of salicylic acid in alcohol and adding to a half-pint bottle of the juice. This acid is used to pre- serve fruit, so it is perfectly harmless. Better success to you next time. A COUNTRY GIRL—I know absolutely nothing as to the merits or demerits of the preparations you mention. I never heard of them before, It is safer to make your own creams and soaps out of good, pure Ingredients, and then you know ex- actly what you are using. It Is exceed- ingly risky to use things you know noth- Infl about. OSE—It must be the witch hazel in the lotion that made your face burn. Perhaps half the quantity would have been better for your skin. As your skin is g0 very tender, I think perhaps sweet cream would be the best thing to use on it after coming in from the sun. Never, under any circumstances, bathe your face in soap and water before going out of doors or just after coming in. In the matter of tan and freckles a prevention is better than a cure. So when going out into the light and alr protect the face b, sultable covering. Please read what{ have to say to Margaret F. LEVO—A tonic made of 33“1 parts of cocoanut oil and vaseline will make the eyelashes and eyebrows grow, but ugould not be allowed to get into the eyes, as it will irritate and inflame them. I ou read the beauty talk Sunday before ast you found your question about pow- der answered. you didn't see it, write agaln. A most satisfactory rouge—if one insists upon using rouge—is made by taking one-half ounce each of spermaceti ~and white wax and two and a half ounces of oll of sweet almonds, Heat these gent- Rz IN PRIMROSE CREPE DE CHINE AND YELLOW FAILLE. }ly until all are mixed. Remove from the re and add one ounce of alcohol, in which a small handful of deep red rose leaves have been steeped. This must be peaten until cold. It is absolutely harmless. M X he alum wash is made be' dissolving a small piece of alum the size of a bean in a pint of cold water. This is only to be used in case of flabbi- ness, and should be applied directly after massaging with some cream. MONA—Apply the peroxide of hydrogen to the superfluous hairs with a soft spongs every other night for awhile and then less frequently. It will not injure the skin. Tt Is an antiseptic and is fre- auently taken internally. ADELE—To make the hair stay in curl use this bandoline before doing it up: Gum tragacanth, 1% drams; proof spir- it, 3 ounces; attar of rose, 3 drops; dis- tilled water, 7 ounces. MME. OAKLAND—You will find your question answered in foregoing reply to evo. MARGARET F.—Lemon juice, with a little borax added, will whiten the skin nicely. Cold cream should always be used after the lemon juice. TABLET—The cornflower is the small blue flower sold by florists. Some people call them bachelor buttons and some blu- ets. Steep thirty grammes of the fresh blossoms (bruised) in one pint of water for twelve hours. Strain and distill. The Hquid thus obtained can be ‘used without injury to the eyes. Thirty grammes is equal to one ounce, and one ounce is equal to two tablespoonfuls. I do not think that clipping the lashes will make them any thicker or curly. ANXIOUS MOTHER—A very 0ood freckle lotion is made by mixing three grains of borax with five drams of rose- water and five drams of orange flower water. But really my advice to you would be not to put anything on the little one's face. A child’s skin is so very tender, and whatever you put on it will increase the tendency to freckle. Prevention is better than cure in cases of this sort. If the child were mine I should let its'skin alone and put a good big sunbonnet on whenever it went out. think as the child grows older the freckles will grad- ually fade out. MRS. ANXIOUS—That puffiness about the eves is pretty sure to be a sign of ill-health, usually of bladder or Kkidne; troubles. Hard work and late hours will also bring that appearance. Try to go to bed with the chickens and get up with the cable-cars. Do not read in bed or other- wise try your eyes. Take lots of exercise in the open air, haye your bedroom per- fectly ventilated and apply witch hazel frequently to the puffed-out places. If all this does not do away with the swol- len appearance I think it would be well to_consult a&h ysician. INQUIRER—The electric needle will certainly remove the superfluous hairs. The reason why the operation has some- times to be repeated is because the needle does not always succeed In reaching the root of the hair. When this is the case the hair invariably sprouts again. I tan- not give dermatologists’ names or their prices in these columns. I think you can annihilate the hairs yourself by rubbing prepared chalk on them and then on your fingers and plucking them out. 1. H.—Your first letter was answered in The Sunday Call of October 30. Hope you saw it. - L. A. W.—There is no infallible cure for the little red veins. Very often they will scatter and disappear of mselves. Sometimes frequent applications of witch hazel will help to disperse them. I am sorry I cannot suggest anything more en- couraging. Devoted friends are few and far between In this world, and it is a pity to miss an opportunity of gaining one, but alas! What you ask is beyond my fund of information. NAOMI.—For_the eyebrows that meet over the nose, I would advise you to rub on some prepared chalk, and also to chalk your fingers, and then pluck the hairs out. This is a much less painful proceeding than pulling them out with the tweezers, or even undergoing the elec- tric needle. Salt water baths are very excellent in some forms of skin eruptions, and it-is well to use the water on thefac Sometimes when the skin is in a particu. larly irritable condition salt water seems to increase the irritation. At such times 1 would not advise its being used. Yes, it is a good plan to let the cold salt water in after the bath. But never let it get so cold that it chills you. DOROTHY.—Yes, by using the proper exercises one can develop almost ang por- tion of the body. If you will let me know Where you wish devélopment I will tell you which exercises to use. MYRTLE MAY.—To make theeyebrows ow get one ounce of alcohol and in it ifmlve five grains of quinine. Apply this every other night, and on the nights in between times massage very gently with the fingers di ved in pure olive oil slight- ly warmed. our eyebrows cannot hel ywing then. You might try borax an jemon E\flce. fifteen grains to the ounce, on the brown spots, but, if they are really moth patches nothing in the world wiil remove them, until their cause—a diseased liver—is remedied. M. E. M.—Try the following wash for Boracic acid, 1 dram; diluted the scars: witch hagel, 2 ounces; rosewater, 2 ounces. Mix and rub on the face night and morning. MOON DREAMS—I am very sorry that 1 cannot help you solve the mystery, but it would be utterly Impossible for any one to tell positively the ingredients of & thing from a description of its effects. The only way to find out the exact in- gredients 15 to wash or cream, take jt to a chemist and have it analyzed. 7] VALENTIN t a camel’s hair face leruhbl:f brush and scrub the face every night th pure castile soap and tepid ‘water. en rub a fiood cold cream thoroughly into the skin. If continueq this treatment will certainly banish the blackheads. A little powdered borax on a bit of linen rubbed lightly over them will also halH. ‘When one starts out to gure, particularly the bust, thing to do is to discard all pads Sl parts of Gocon butter, laline ahd parts of er, 3 Gocoanut ol Meited togotho. One ~ t obtain a portion of the. of each will be enou%h. Keep the mase sage up for ten or fifteen minutes, pour- ing the oil into the palms of the hands, and rubbing around and around and up. The rubbing must be gentle, as the f!ands are very sensitive. It will be at least seven weeks before there will be any perceptible development, but in time there will certainly be an amazing change. Also bathe the breasts every morning in tepid water. The breachlng exercises given in to-day’s beauty tall will help wonderfully. 't me know how you get along. MME. HYGEIA. Law HEN a woman has a - husband, and he cannot or will not support For WomEN self. She may be obliged to sup- port not only herself but her husband, who may be ill, her children or relatives. If she wants to go into any business in which money must be invested she has to go through certain legal forms to protect herself. She must become a “‘sole trader,” as the law of California calls it, to designate a married woman who i{s managing her own business independent of her husband. Any good lawyer can flll out and file in court the regular papers for her. ‘When she has decided what line of bus- iness, millinery or a small store, or a bak- ery, or a restaurant, she intends to take up, she must publish her intention in a newspaper once a week for four succes- sive weeks. She must give her husband’s name in her advertisement and the date when she intends making application to establish a business in which he has™no interest. She must say what court she applies to and when and where her busi- ness is to begin. She must take a re- markable oath and file her petition ten days before she goes into court. The oath she takes is: “I, A B, do in the presence of Almighty God, solemnly swear that this application was made in good faith, for the purpose of enabling me to support myself (and any dependent, such as husband, parent, sister, child, or the like, naming them by name), and not with any view to defraud, delay or hinder any creditor or creditors of my husband; and that of the money so to be used by me in business, not more than $500 have come either directly or iGndlrectly from my husband. So help me 0d."” A man may embark in any yventure he wishes, from the ‘“‘gold brick” business up to banking, without subscribing to any oath whatsoever. His profits, as long as he lives, as well as the capital invested, will be absolutely his own, and upon the death of his wife the entire community property will belong absolutely to him and without administration being had. In the petition which a ‘‘soie trader” flles she must state: 1. That the application is made in good faith to enable her to support herself and those dependent upon her, and must give their names and the relationship which they bear to her. : 2. She must state the fact that she is in- sufficiently supported bg; her husband, and she must say why he does not sup- port her. 3. She must give any other reasons why she wishes to go into business, which rea- sons are cause for divorce. If there are reasons for divorce, she must say why she does not seek a divorce. 4. She must state what business she proposes to conduct, where her place of busfneu is to be and how much money she has to put into it. She must also teil the court just where she got her money and how. If she invests more than $500 which came directly or indirectly from her husband she must also flle his written consent to her using the money. When a woman has become, by permis- slon of the court, a ‘‘sole trader,’ the property and the revenues and_ increase all belong to her exclusively. Her hus- band is no longer responsible for her debts and she is not responsible for his. MUSJERED OUT. Sweetheart, to-day a rumor flew That made the post resound. It sends me back, dear girl, to you, For we are homeward bound! Yet, hold I it no grievous sin If 'mid the joyous shout I prdy I may be mustered in vhen I am mustered out. There is a service that présents Far greater charms than this; Its very highest recompense 1s measured in a kiss. And two compose a company In love and faith most stout— In _yours I'd re-enlist, you see, ‘When I am mustered out. T'm but a humble private, dear. No stripes or straps are mine; And claim to fame and glory here I willingly resign. To peace I look, and not ot strife, For rank o'er all about, If I may serve with you for life, ¥ ‘am mustered out. When I 81 iR T. Babim, in Truth. —e——————— The late Czar Alexander II was colonel-in-chief of the Peryaslav Regi- ment of Dragoons, and now the present Czar has conveyed the appointment of honorary colonel on his mother, the Dowager Empress. et