The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 30, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 30, 1898. 27 u swish and flutter of 1er girl no longer echoes In stead is tter of the autumn as beflts a modern D r maiden has evo! genuine tnf Driving, crowded rridors powder went out 1 people have come » a turn., 3ob has been and include bid fair to slarity at lea ) is being org: ncing are down excel v cloth. as for shooting, f raw silk the shape tments rt of shirtwaist- eteen or wash mat ston soles of the heay s too large, and k for, ventllation. X costume is made of th the skir{ cut in at either side with The jacket is in ts long enough v the waist ; wide. uit is made with the line, and the Street frock of mahogany color smooth o Skirt and bodice corded with fine cord. i princess polonaise falls gracefully over the skirt. The very edge of the polonaise is corded A_with velvet as are the revers; little girdle rushed in very narrow and simply fas- tencde over in the back. Vest of mahog- any elaborately braided in blue and black. Two large velvet buttons are sewn at the top of each rever. The very high collar {s a_combination of the vest and the braid reaches over it uninterrupted.| Smail sleeves with the cords running around the arm. At the hand there is a tiny cord of velvet. Hat of folded velvet with two black bird wings jauntily fas- tened at one side. [Nodern (egegeReFegeFaFegaFaFaFugaP R Fayal e R R R =R F R F-3-F-3-F-3:-3-2-F-3-F-F-F-F-2-F - 3-8 -F-F- T3 skirt like the last one described, but the waist is entirely different. It is made like a riding habit, with the basque and .ip pockets. There are wide revers and a turned-down collar at the back. _'The sleev are small, in coat-sleeve shape, and finished with two runs of stitching. A lovely wor as attention on towing costumes as s a thing of mes a joy forever. MITED [NCOMES economical wo- paving the n cape knowing she will obliged to w it every- where during the entire winter. She real- izes that a wrap of that character is in- tended to be one of several rather thanthe only one garment of its class. Coats and 5 proved always fash- lonable and always ble. But one must kee with the modish movement of dre it what it may; consequently, if we h a very good short jacket, the thing to do is to study it carefully, and to remodel its length. The skirt or basque may be lengthe! in many ways. Supposing.the cloth cannot be matched exactly, we may fali back on the modish touch of using another shade of the same color. That will be found result wonderfully well when seen between rows of Then the revers, if not entirely of fur, should be of the new shade of cloth, and the collar and cuffs also. It is not intended that the new shade of cloth should form the that would be In a liring it would be in outside of the col bad taste, but as keeping perfectly Many of the smartest Paris gowns bullt of cloth show two shades of one color or have a contrasting color introduced. be- tween cuttings of the cloth, these stitched down afterward on each side. A snuff- brown ladies’ cloth had a charmingly graceful skirt -design so devised as to mount up and finish to perfection on the bodice. It is carried out in gourd-vellow cloth, the lines not over a quarter of an inch wide. A burnt orange velvet chemi- sette with a left strap and rosette de- he belt, intermingled with This lace also formed ollars and a front, completing a de- lightful scheme of color. The thing to avoid in altering an out- side garment is introducing contrasts which are too sharp. It is better taste to keep vivid tones subdued. There are numerous ways of doing thi the use of passementeries, laces, braids and strappings to break the color. In the matter of revers and collars they may.be allowed to stand out more posi- tivel if harshness is avoided and no abuse’ of the privilege is made. For in- stance, white satin seldom can be worn s facings to such parts without being as fs veiled with lace. :garding skirts, the foundation taffeta t remains 'separate from the top de skirt, as in our summer gow: having an accordion flounce, and measur- ing three yards around the bot- tom. All new skirts are long, too long fo shop or to go about the streets on foot without drawing up the other skirt to keep it clean. Lnlespu we do, and a pity it Is to pe So taxed, we have nothing left us but letting them hang to sweep the streets, as we see daily very careless untidy women doing. The outside skir simply faced and stitched down, the stitching hidden by the usual bottom fi which all skirts now have, for they are all trimmeq in some wa; Fitted flounces hold their swa premely. Home dressmakers should warned against attemnting them, espe- clally in cloth, unless they obtain the rvices of a tailor to cut them out. All the best dressmakers employ a tallor for such work. If one has a cloth gown made after the model of last spring there will be found very littie to do to it, unless to make it fit the flgure more closely at the top and to trim the opening at the back with groups of small buttons or to close the back and open the skirt on ome side, and to add the same button trimming on the hip sea both are new touches which take away from the excessive plainness of not having gathers or plaits. One of the favorite plain skirt models in new Paris gowns has blas seams in front and in the back. All such skirts measure four yards round the bottom. Cross-striped_materials, both in woclens and silks, which are so popular at the moment, look the best when their skirts = su- be dre made up after this model. As an instance, there Is a very smart hovelty material, having a fine, cloth- like foundatjon, cross-striped with satin cords an inch apart, and found in all the modish colors of the season. There is no _rieed of a fitted flounce or trimmings on a skirt of this material and model. For that reason is it mentioned as the smartest and least expensive skirt one may choose. The meeting of these stripes on the bias on the front and back seams is In itself a most effective trimming. The bodice material for the back fis seamed on_the bias to correspond, which carriee a charming line from neck to hem of skirt. The material for the fronts starts on the bias under the arms and drapes up toward the center. Velvet in then used for the chemisette, or the small coachman's cape, or the divided collars, which separate front and back, three of the smartest styles observed on French gowns, Bias seams are also carried out on the sieeves. All new sleeves are slit up very high above the wrists. This gives a or Dianas. 08 308 CF 208 10K 108 300 308 308 0K 3000 X 08 R o chance for effective small button group- ing, when buttons are used. as they are popular, especially beautifully designed very small ones. medium sized ones are used two in a group are suffi- cient. Chemisettes are no longer worn down to the bust as in summer. They are carried up higher, and so are revers, because we must now show more of our tight-fitting corsage below than we have been doing. The tops of sleeves fit closer this sea- son, and one cross row of flat trimming laid on a little below the arm Is thought very smart. N DEMAND N the matter of hairdressing English women seem to be very indetermi ate. The Spanish comb that a few months back was wont to prove a really serious obstruction to the view in public places of amusement. seems to have quite disappeared and only the nar- row, graceful little empire shapes are used, and even these do not seem to be as numerous as formerly. Amber is in special demand just now, and women with very dark hair have taken to wearing combs made of this golden-hued translucent substance with excellent effect At a theater the other evening I noticed Mrs. Brown-Potter, for instanc with n enormous string of amber beads twisted once around her neck and hanging far below her waist in front. Th voked odd and a trifle barbariec, but v ited her remarkably well. 1 ha also seen lately some most delightful am- ber card ca with gold frames and the initials or monogram t in diamonds in one corner. For cigarette and cigar cases, articles indeed of most exquisite luxury, amber is also used, and I was shown the other day a case which a wealthy bride- elect had just presented to the fortunate youth who was about to become her Spouse. The case was of amber, with a delfcately wrought framework of gold, and twisted about It, the edges fitting so perfectly that the dofls seemed unbroken, was a serpent of gold inlaid with emer- alds. In one corner, just at the end of the serpent’s head, was a coronet and monogram in diamonds. It was, of course, an impossible affair for any man to carry in his pocket, but as a rare and beautiful specimen of the jeweler's art it_was decidedly interesting. Delighttul little stamp boxes and bon- bon boxes are also being made of amber, some of them hanging from slender golden chains so that they can be worn depend- ing from the neck. These also are set with precious stones, and some of them have the amber lids cunningly carved in quaint designs. All these things. of course, cost a very pretty penny, but I dare say Bond-street jewelers wiil drive a brisk trade with them in anticipation of the Christmas season. —_—————————— SLEEPING MACHINES. Experiments have been made recently with some curious devices in the shape of “sleep machines.” Sleep will some- times result from fatigue of the eyes. Looking at trees or other objects as we rush along in the train will fre- quently “send us off.” An_ ingenious gentieman has pro- duced a machine for this purpose. It is a box surmounted by two fan-iike panels, one above the other, revolving horizontally in opposite directions. These panels are studded with mirrors that throw upon the retina a vi- brating flood of twinkling light. A similar effect is produced by star- ing at a bright ball placed high abcve the head, so that some slight strain is caused b: aring at it. Another apparatus for causing drow- siness is formed of clamps for squeez- ing the arteries leading to the brain. The clamps remain in position for less than half a minute, and by that time the sufferer from insomnia has been placed in a state of somnolence by the decreased flow of blood to the brain. Still another method is to arrange an electric battery in the bed so that a mild electric current a&cts upon the spine. e In China hens are employed to hatch fish cggs. These are sealed in an egg- shell and placed under the unsuspecting hen for a few days until the spawn has warmed into life. The contents of the shell are then emptled Into a shallow nool, where they can bask in the sun- shine until ~the minnows - are strong enough to be turned into a lake or river. s e The highest death rate In the world trom the use of alcohol is found in Stock- holm, the number of deaths from this cause being ninety per lwusnnd. F 108 08 108 308 306 308 106 08 0 08 08 0% 308 308 08 308 X0X 3Gk 30 308 308 308 308 S0 308 08 308 08 08 S0 KX O a By Mme. 0E 06 08 308 308 0% 108 10 308 306 308 30 06 06 5 % pPowdgr and Qurlipg Irons An Aid to Beauty. S 306 108 306 308 308 308 108 30000 308 30 08 X% 0 0K Hygeia. feReRaRugaPeRaPegugeRagogip-gegiyeteRote-RR-goR-FoReRagoRegFuPoPeRe] This department is for the benefit of all those who are interested in cos- metics and the hygiene of proper living. Correspondence is cordially invited. Ask as many questions as you like and sign any name that.you choose. Ad- dress all communications to Mme. Hy geia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. ESPITE the rantings of the strong-minded lady who fiies to the housetop and flings anathe- mas right and left as to the girl who wields a curling iron or flaunts a powder puff, there never was a girl yet whose dear little nose was the least bit demoralized by a suspicion of powder gently sprinkled over it. Have you ever particularly noticed the aforesaid goody-goody lady, who rails against creams and lotions, powders and all such aids to beauty as the invention of a certain disreputable gentleman whose name I would not think of mentioning in a respectable newspaper? Have you ever ol ed that this croaker about ‘‘beauty unadorned” is ain to an ex- treme? She is u a maiden lad with her hair done up in a tight little wad, a false front and a nose that shines with the magnificent radiance of a newly polished brass door knob. | But she wouldn't put a particle of powder on that scintillating member for all the riches in the United Kingdom; no, indeed, not she! But never mind, girls, powder is a good thing just the same, if of the right sort and used with discrimination. Why, for my part, I would almost as soon be without my front halr as to be bereft of my beloved powder rag. And by the way, there is nothing more delight- ful in the w of a powder rag than a nice soft piece of white velvet. It Is well to have two pieces; with the one apply l,}’lr owder and ith the other go over the ace, smoothing down the powder and rubbing 1t . Tf any flecks fall upon the eyebrows or eyelashes, brush them out all brush early all women have some pet face owder to which they pin their faith; but et me tell you one thing. With but few exceptions, powders that are bought in 3 ! ® 5 4 e : Liatest Styles in New York Hats. To wear the hats rolled off the face or tipped down over the eyes? that was the question. Whether ‘twas better to show the contours of the face by the rolling brim or to hide them with the hat with the tipped brim. has won the day. prevails. the hat that does not boast of feathers of some sort is utterly hopeless. most entirely. Felts are only found are sometimes made entirely of two-colored velvet. dation of the hat is a very rich and novel weave of braided chenille. in the severe walking hats. From the latest models by the Parisian milliners it will be seen that the hat turned off the face This style is well adapted to show the fluffy pompadour style of hair dressing that still Feathers are used lavishly on these hats and Dame Fashion is evidently firm in the decree that The hats are made of velvet al- Even these are draped in velvet and The only substitute that is used for velvet for the foun- The hats this season are not only very stunning, but they are of such a varlety that it is unusually easy to find something becoming and at the same time smart the shops are positively poisonous, for they contain bismuth or lead in large quantities, and many of them are made almost entirely of oxide of zinc. A little of this latter as an ingredient in a powder can do no possible harm. The only way to be sure,of your pow- Reception gown of yellow net with ap- pliqued design of ecru lace and made over vellow taffeta. The overskirt is of the net ornamented and edged with the ecru lace, and the under skirt is also of the net and trimmed with ruffles of the same. The body of the waist is trimmed to cor- respond with the overskirt, and the sleeves and ruching are of thé plain net. The formula not only, per- der is to make it yvour: which 1 am about to gi fectly harmless, but possesses exceptional medicinal properties. Boracic acid is most excellent for the irritated skin, so those of you who have facial eruntions can feel perfectly safe in using this pow- der. 1f carefully prepared it wil be as fine and soft as the downy powder on a butterfly's wings. It is called Poudre des Fees. One ounce Lubin's rice powder. One ounce best, purest oxide of zinc. One-half ounce carbonate of magne- sia (finely powdered). Twenty grains boracic acid. Two drops attar of roses. When purchasing your ingredients, ask your druggist to powder each separately n a mortar. First put your rice powder through a fine sieve and then .through bolting cloth. Do the same thing with the oxide of zinc, the magnesia and the bo- racic acid before adding them to the rice powder. When all are combined, put twice through bolting cloth. After each sifting throw away any particles that re- elf, main. It is very necéssary that all the ingredients be made fine and soft and down: dd the attar of rose last. If you desire a creamy tint to your pow= der, add the tiniest suggestion of finely powdered carmine. If you wish to have a rose or pink tint, add still more. Per- sons with a pale complexion should use flesh-colored powder; those with florid skins should use white, while cream will be found the most acceptable for byu- nettes. A little rose water rubbed lightly over the face before powdering will make the powder adhere more closely. et g PAnswers to Gorrespondents. F. N. P.—Directions to you last Sun- day should have read ‘“powdered borax on a bit of linen” instead of “on a bit of lime.” VIOLA W.—Trim the ingrowing toe- nails lightly at the ailing corner, but fully at the opposite corner, and then scrape the center of the nail very thin from tip to root. If taken in time this method {s almost sure to cure. If it does not, then I would advise a visit to an able chiropodist. When one is afflicted with an oily skin the first thing to look to Is the diet. Avoid pies, cakes and rich foods. Eat plenty of fruit. Mineral wa- ters also have a good effect on sKins which are too liberally endowed with nat- ural oflls. Then use the following lotion to soften the water in which you bathe your face: Alcohol, four ounces; ammo- nia, one ounce; oil of lavender, one dram. Mix up by shaking in a six-ounce botttle. Add one seant teaspoonful (not a drop more) of this to two quarts of warm water when the face is bathed. Use camphor ice on the tender lips. AUGUSTINE C.—I think if you will use the following lemon hair wash- on your hair it ‘will bring back some of the gold- en tints: One dram salts of tartar, one quart warm water and the juice of three lemons. Use this as a shampoo, and then rinse out until the hair is soft and fluffy. To stop the falling hair use this tonic: Four ounces cologne; one-half ounce tine- ture cantharides and a fourth dram each of oil of lavender and ofl of rosemary. Apply to the roots once or twice a day witt a small sponge. Your hair will not grow long until the split ends are re- moved. If }'ou are in the habit of wear- ing white linen collars or high collars of any sort your neck is bound to be dark. Lemon juice rubbed on the neck, followed by massage with a good cold cream, will bleach the neck, after the high collars have been discarded. Or- ange flower skin food will feed the _tis- sues and develop the muscles of the face. Formula is given in answer to Valdora. ALAMEDA.—When the hair is exces- sively oily or the scalp unusually crowd- ed with dandruff, it should be shampooed at least every ten days., The simplest recipe 1s the yolk of an egg well beaten up in one ounce of rosemary spirits and one pint of very wagm water. sh the head thoroughly in this and rinse in sev- eral waters, until every bit of the egg has been removed. This I am sure will ban- ish the dandruff. If it does not stop its falling, try the tonic suggested in the foregoing reply to Augustine C. R. N. C.—With care you can do your own housework, and still keep the hands soft and white. Keep a lemon or tomato conveniently near with which to remove vegetable stains, and, if you can afford it, use castile soap for dishwashing. Do not change the hands suddenly from hot to cold water or from cold to hot. Keep a pair of old gloves with the fingers cut off to draw on when handling coal or ashes or doing rough work of any kind. Each night upon retiring rub this cream well into the hands: Cocoa butter, oil of sweet almonds and refined white wax, equal parts. VALDORA F.—What you need to fatten your face is the orange flower skin food. ere is the formula: Spermaceti, one- half ounce; white wax, one-half ounce; sweet almond oil, one ounce; lanoline, one ounce; cocoanut oil, one ounce; tincture of benzoin, ten dr)ulps; orange flower wa- one ounce. assage this well into the skin. ANNETTE CORDELIA B.—The follow- ing cold cream is excellent to use, after washing the face: One-half ounce each of white wax and sgermuetl, four ounces ofl of sweet almonds and two ounces of orange flower water. -Melt all together very gently and pour into cups to cool. ‘When cool, pour off the water. Remeit and E:‘A‘" into jars to keep. LO} HENRY—You ask what effect benzoin has upon the skin. The purpose Reudy for the ¢ pe . of benzoin is to help rid the skin of the tiny particles it is continually throwing off. It is most excellent if used sparingly, but if too much of it is used you will find yourself shedding innumerable flaky scales. I wouldn't think of using it on the hair. Borax is all right if used in very small quantity, say, a pinch of it to a basin of water, but toe much of it will be found to be very drying to the skin. I don't care for cocoa butter for the face. Pure castile-soap Is the most de- sirable to use upon the skin. It has not a particularly sweet odor, mor dg make a nice lather, but it is pure. I t in 1 w i a special talk on proper di day's Call. I hope vou s: g2 GLADYS—Witch hazel is splendid for the eves. If mixed with one-third part camphor water it is particularly good for weak, inflamed eyelids. A tonic made of equal parts of cocoanut oil and will make the eyelashes and eyebrows grow.. But don't, I beg of you, use it on the lashes in the condition your eyves are in, for if it gets into the e as it is pretty sure to do, it will irritate and in- flame them, Washing the hair in. strong bring a darker shade to one's tresses. I am very sorry that.d could not answer your letter sooner, but there were so many ahead of you. YOUNG AMEHRICAN—And’ you wanted_an answer in “next Sunda sue.” Well, I can_only say to you that T am sorry and I hope vour patience is not complete usted. The exces- sive redness. of your face probably comes from a fevered condition of the blood. -oury hopes of a cure on proper diet, pienty of/ exercise and a general regard or all hvgienic . Take hot footbaths and bathe the face oc nally with di- luted witch hazel. E night before re- tiring massage the thoroughly with . pure, cold cream. J. W.—That is the best I could make of the name you signed, and hope you will recognize yourself. Bathe the Ted nose frequently in diluted witch hazel. Also soak your feet in hot mustard water before going to bed. A camel's hair face scrubbing brush, tepid water and castile soap, used severy night and fol- lowed by a smearing of the face with cold cream, .is the only treatment that will do away with blackheads. I would advise you to go to a skillful dermatologist and have the moles removed. too KITTY M.—Were you finally success- ful with the cold cream? 1. H.—The elec needle is the only permanent cure for superfluous hair. Pumice stone will remove it but only tem- porarily. Peroxide of hydrogen is a bleach and can be used upon the superfluous hair with perfect safetly. Apply with a little soft sponge every other night for awhile, and then less fréquently. This will light- en color of the hair, so as to make it scarcely: perceptible and very often will finally deaden the growth. It will not cause the slightest soreness or disfigure- ment of the skin and will lighten the halr permanentl CLAIRE E.—Dissplve a small pinch of borax in two tablespoonsful of cologne and with it sponge the pimples on the shoulders. Also take a daily sponge bath, eat only such food as agrees with you, and take plenty of éxercise. For informa- tion concerning superfluous hair, please read foregoing reply to I. H. Benzoin used as you suggest is excellent. e e e s ONE WOMAN’S REVENGE. No one but a woman could have con- ceived so cruel a vengeance. Yet she tells of it with positive glee. They all lived in one of those very exclusive lit- tle squares—hotbeds of gossip—where the houses are. every one built on the same plan, and where each man, woman and child knows' the finest de- tails of the next-door neighbor’s exist- ence. “However she dared do such a thing I cannot imegine,” said the modern Borgia. “It was when I was ill that she called upon me, and in my weak- ness 1 was foolish enough to have my maid get out my new gown to show it to her. Would you believe it? She had the audacity to go directly and have the gown duplicated down to the very buttons, and was wearing it on the street before I had ever been well enough even to try mine on. But I am’ not the kind of woman to tolerate such treachery. I saw that she was speedily and hideously punished. “What did I do?” continued the ex- asperated speaker. “Why, I made a present of my gown to Lucinda, my cook, and the first time that I saw ‘that woman’ go out I hired Lucinda to put on the gown and walk up and down the square in full sight of the en- tire .neighborhood. - Then, when ‘that —woman’ returned home our mutual friend met her in front of the house and said to her: “'Why, my dear Mrs. Dolliver, what a charming gown you have on. Bat, let me think now—where have I seen a gown similar to yours? Oh, yes, I re- member. Mrs. Hillis’ took has just gone around the corner with one exactly like it. How strange? Here she comes now." Up sauntered Lucinga, twirling a red umbrella. Mrs. Dol r 4s having to use color restoratives on her hair. They say it turned white in a minute. You see, I have a drop of Italian blood in my veins. I believe in the vendetta.” A leading physiclan says that pepper 1s deadly polson to the system. Savages, on the whole, live longer than civilized people. Theater gown of beige silk poplin, with sleeveless jacket bodice of black, ecru and %old embroldery. The tucked yoke and sleeves are of beige chiffon over tht blue silk. Belt of black with blue enam- eled buckle, Toque of black veivet.