The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 23, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 23, 1898, 27 ) women make a inction in their dress ling to their occupa- a gown that is in- 1ded for a carriage being w 3 r goes People oz and who do not should make a decided nce in thei wardrobe. wh & 1y through )t consistently wear the ind rich materials that are priate for one who spends s in the protected cushioned her own establishment. ues of good soclety show ent from those her born.”! gaudy silks and and in pubiic con- es to the people , that she is he fair rly would imit; that wc a vexat gown ses was long question 8 the cut it must be L confes solu gown is the bes belon of the good make and naker allor-made gown ght to look. signed for oc- perfect fit y to hard can dresses e dr pretty but rmingly emanded. the pe- to compe- to employ buy your themselves 1g from mak- ausing the anted; but made dress s in fit and far in ad- <, but even the re dre tai mp from ssmaker- go o0 a good tailor tailor touch man would ed to make.” gown lined lacking hen ituted for the lin- ity of silk will not i ssary to go ining your it is h the sitk s esh and 1f lasts 1 and arment_do a-fa ble. Re- intend i constant hing that is ultra-novel Ic ok 00k icket is also cut in ut is seamed down buttons on the side. It smart when made by a tailor s his business. s still another new style designed for those who still feel that a tailor gown must more nearly roach the elabora- tion of other dres: . It is made in the new overlay effes and is elaborately trimmed in braid and fur. For practical purposes I would not ad- who kno There COMBINATION OF CLOTH AND CHECKED VELVET, Showing the Latest Button Effect. 2 SMART TAILOR-MADE GOWNS, vise any of these new styles. The regu- lation tailor-made gown cut according to the latest model will be far more satis- factory. The cut of the jacket enables the wearer to use it as a separate gar- ment with other skirts, and there is plen- ty of room underneath for the silk or cot- ton shirt waist. Unfortunately for comfort, the long skirt appears inclined to stay even in tallor garments, And a short skirt even when fitted with consummate art, cer- tainly lacks style. If you must do a great deal of walking the long skirt is simply impo: le. It is decidedly wise to have two skirts made to the one jacket. One skirt cut long and the other short enough to walk conveniently without raising the skirt. In the end the two skirts will prove economical. With tailor-made gowns fashionable wo- men are wearing street shoes cut on men's lasts, made of precisely the same Style leather, but of lighter weight. The style of tie or neckwear that isworn with a tailor gown plays an important in making or marring the general The broad silk scarfs in gay col- s, tied in the Ascot under the chin and xtending to the belt, are as popular as ever. Those displayéd in the shops are very expensive, but they can be mads by ‘purchasing striped silk by the vard. The edges can be fringed by pulling out the threads at the end, as if for hem- stitching, until the desired length of fringe is’ obtalned. If “all the accessories are correct, one may always feel praperly dressed in the tailor gown—that is, for street and prac- tical use. Even women who go shopping in their carriages never wear anythingbut a tailor-made gown,_ unless they intend to go calling after Shopping. To sum it ajl up, wear a correctly made taflor gown at the correct time and place. Do not ruin its simple line by tacking on frou-frou effect Learn to appreciate the use of a tailor gown and to shun its abu e et LaTEST IN FEATBERS. HE varlety in feathers this season is quite unprecedented. Thelr great feature is that the majority of them are trimmed. We used to consider that a feather in itself was beautiful enough, but now even os- trich plumes are tipped with contrasting ots of chenille, and these make very etty ruches for the neck. The feathery urras is blended with quills, one side quill being replaced by it, often specks of other feathers attached. s is new enough, but not so new the introduction of a beautiful real but- terfly on to bustard quills; some of them are 1 brown, finely marked butter- flie contrast to the quills and the gourras plumes they accompany. Osprey breast feathers are also blended with butterflies, metallic-tinted plumage of e ery kind, as well as shaded feather: have been laid under contribution by the milliner, and fan shaped plumes have been fashioned to stand erect behind quills; which as often as not down their center rib have a ruche of added feath very flully and curly. The guinea wl has not only been elevated to a pin- cle of fashion in its natural gray col- but it has dyed in the new y, green and bright orange tones; in . yellow figures largely in the feath- of the moment. Large birds, with four wings instead of two, and dyed any color required, have found great ac ance with fashion's caterers. The 3 to be had in_heliotrope mingled with green, or in red and green, or in blue and green, for greens of every hue have been adapted to plumes, as well as more bril- liant magenta. The impeyan feathers bor- der many of the wings, while others are indebted” to paillettes for some of thelr hean Indéed, looking round at the supply of quills, wings and feather ornaments of all kinds, it is apparent that the force of in- vention can no further go. A sort of chine effect in colors surrounds some of the blue feathers.and some of the quills are of different tints on either side. Short quills have been mounted Into large sheafs of green. yellow, white or brown, and paradise plumes are mingled with os. prey. The French with its beautiful light and dark biue t : utilized as it is. The A sure to be employed in every light, as well as dark tone, judging from the enor- mous variety in which they are to be had, many of them spotted with chenille. The spotted Tetra, Which is, in wings are fact, & TWO-PIECE TAILOR SUIT. English mixed suiting in brown able also for cheviots, ts, zibelines,Venetians, ete. the capercailzie, figures in hats and bon- nets, and every pheasant wing that has been shot for sport and food has been utllized for millinery, the brown plumage being enlivened by the introduction of bright green, red or blue here and there. We have returned in our allegiance to bright colors, not one of which has been ignored in feathers and all of them as beautiful as taste may dictate. Judging from the display, feathers are taking the place of flowers, and no good whatever has been done by the crusade against cruelty to the feathered bipeds which has been waged so long; and more is the pity. All the autumn and winter boas will be in fashion; feather ones whenever it is possible, and the innovation in these Is that three colors are introduced in one example—white, vellow and blue; white, mauve and black mingle together. Other ruffles are made of ostrich tips, spotted with chenille; this studding of cheniile {ntroduced on to feathers is making a reat change in the modes. Ruffs or soft ilted silk are well worn, too, and in pretty much every color, but in Parls black and white have the preference, and next to this comes gray tipped with white. Black with tiny white spots is also wo, Fichus are in most constant demand. These are made of lisse, bordered with Valenciennes, the most fashiénable being white Valenciennes, with the pattern out- lined in_black. Some of them are mad in the finest chiffon, bordered with ruf- fled lace, in which acorns are introduced into the design, the edges bordered with tasseling. Detached collars of all kinds are made in silk and cotton. They gen- erally take the form of a salilor collar at the back, and reverse in front, bor- dered with 'frilling, united by narrow beading and white embroldergi There are others made in white muslin, d rather of the yoke form, pointed back and front, edged with an Insertion bordered with lace. Quite new are collars and cuffs made in thick jacketnet, and hori- zontally tucked all over, to replace linen. —_— Mildew may be removed by simply making a soft paste of equal parts of chalk and common soap. Wet the stained goods and place in the sun un- til the spot disappears. g A GERTERS dND . DUSPENDERS MONG elastic suspenders that I have seen in the Paris shops is one covered with white gathered taf- fetas ribbon. It is fastened to the cqreet, and is tied to the stockings by ;nds of white taffetas ribbon, fixed by a ow. Another is a model of a round garter, composed of a broad pink taffetas ribbon, gathered and ridged, with a double gath- ered heading on each side, the uppermost being the plainest and narrowest. The gather is ornamented with four ends of unequal length, of the same’ ribbon, held by a square strass bucsle, and edged with a frill of pink taffetas. The longer ends are ornamented with designs embroid- ered in black silk in featherstitch. Beside It is a garter of sky blue satin, made on_elastic, like the preceding. The upper side, is orhamented with a narrow heading of ribbon to match, the lower side with a flounce of lieht pattern lace, at- tached in the center with a large bow. Still another is a suspender of red ribbon gathered over elastic with a narrow fes- tooned heading on each side. The ribbons that attach the stockings are held by a sliding buckle, through which the ends can be tied If desired. A dainty combination is a_suspender of pearl gray taffetas, gathered over elastic, with a heading on each side, the lower part of which is ornamented with a bow of black velvet, composed of four loops. At the bottom is a clip, which is closed by the tension of the elastic when the stock- ing is attached. More striking is a round garter of black taffetas, ornamented on the upper side with half circles of gold, inlaid with prec- ious stones. This is ornamented with three rows of different lengths of black taffetas. Another choice is a suspe: E satin ribbon, wider than the others. the bottom is z ge bow, composed of six loops, fi to a metal arrange- ment, which s itself to the top of the stocking and 5 it very tight. Still another is rter of mauve and white shot taffe gathered over elastic, three centimeters wide, with a small gathZ ered heading on each side. This garter narrows in front and is held by a strass buckle, in which are four loc composed of mauve and white shot taffetas ribbon. - The Schwarz farm, in Greenfleld, Mass., is seldom seen or heard of now except by a few curlous people who go out of curiosity to see the house built by the Rev. Louis Schwarz, now living in Brookline at an advanced age. The buildings are almost entirely out of sight, except from a point on the road from Montague Uity to Turners Falls. STUNNING TAILOR GOWN. ‘The dres of black broadcloth with pipings of moire Persian lamb bordering an openwork pattern cut ont and edged with black soutache number 3. Under the openwork everywhere is white broadcloth, loose from the outside, braided in black and gold. showing through the opening in the black. les between a hill and the ev. Mr. Schwarz must be a man of interest...g personality, ;udg- ing from the house he built and” from the anecdotes of him that are current. The farm was deeded to Mr. Schwarz in January, 1858, by William Keith. Mr. Schwarz seems to have been largely imbued with antiauarian instincts, for when the John Hancock mansion in Boston fell a victim to the iconoclas- tic spirit of the age and was disman- tled, he secured a part of it and took it to Greenfield and added it to his house. From an architectural point of view the addition is not a success. It impresses the visitor as having been fired as a projectile at the house and set up where it happened to strike, rather than having been a part of the original design. The columns. of the veranda, the front door, the front win- dows, which are slightly convex with circular tops, are all taken from John Hancock’s house. The interior of one room, which is now designated as hav- ing been the chapel, is finished entirely The farm river. The then dip in cnd out of the boiling water. Repeat until the ink disappears. EEL T RO In using lemons, tomatoes or oranges as shells for the serving of jellies, salads or fish mayonnaise they should be thoroughly chilled. This is best ac- complished by putting them in the lce cream freezer. To @ueaw BLACK or colored veil cannot be successfully cleaned. Unless a WBITE VEILS. L the dye is apt to smudge the face. Especially is this true in summer, when the face perspires freely. White veils are cooler looking and more-becoming, but they soil easily and are, therefore, con- CLOTH GOWN WITH FOLDS AND CIRCULAR FLOUNCES. with panel work brought from Boston. Springfleld (Mass.) Republican. SRR For ink spots on linen, lemon and salt acts equally as well as the poison- ous “Salts of emon.” Rub salt, well moistened with lemon juice, on the stains and place in the sun until they die out. It may be 1ecessary to apply more than once, but the result is sure. If the ink must be removed in dull weather stretch the spotted article tight as a drum over a cup of boiling water, rub on the salt and lemon thoroughly, sidered an exgensive luxury. But they can be cleaned to look as fresh as when new. When purchasing your veil select a chiffon or silk tissue net. When it goils put it into aleohol and al- low it to soak for five minutes. Do not rub it, as that destroys the fineness of the mesh. If the first alcohol gets very black it is best to put the veil in fresh alcohol for a few seconds. Take the veil out and gen- tly shake it, the air quickly evaporating the alcohol. Your veil will look as good as new. The alcohol can be saved and used several times, thus lessening the ex- pense. 0000000000000 C0000000000000000000 00000000000 0000000L ggoooooooooooooooooeooooooooeooooooeoaooooooeeoooeoooo - © (1] go or i 0o . F00d 4§ a I 0 bead o ©C e 0O oc 00 (1] o 00 By Mme. Hygeia. . oo oc [x1] CCO0000NOC000000000000CO00000000000C000000000000000000000 P20000000000000C0000000000C0OV0000OVOOWO0000000000003C0O0D This department is for the benefit if all those who are interested in the science of cosmeties and the hy- giene of proper living. If any cne desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you pleacc and sign any name that you choose. Address all communicazions to E.me. Hygeia, The Sunday Cail, San Francsico. OW and what shall I eat to ac- quire a fine complexion?” {s one of the questions that comes to me on the wings of the mail. Proper food, together with daily baths and exercise are as essential when one start§ out to improve the complexion as are the necessary col- ors upon the pallette of an artist when he essays to paint a beautiful portrait. In- deed, so long- as one puts into oné's stomach the sort of food that many do, a perfect skin is as utterly ouf of the ques- tion as it is, to make straight hair natu- rally curly. The stomach resents bad treatment, and when food is sent into it, such as no self-respecting stomach could accept, and be cheerful over, it at once 1evenges itself by putting forth signals of abuse in the shape of pimples, black- heads, shinny cerise noses and all sorts of unsightly facial blemishes. So treat your stomach well, if you wish it to treat you well. - For simple home fare the beauty-seek- er must not depend on any strict line of dlet. Varjety is the essential “for all higher forms of life and intellect. Neither can any absolute law be laid down which will apply to everybody, for what is one man’s meat is literally another man's ison, different temperaments requiring ifferent treatment. Daily habits which are regulated by prgger digestion are as necessary to‘a BO complexion as alr, sunlight, water and exercise. For when certain functions become inactive, the pores become clog- ged, the skin yellow and mottled and tl}n eyes lose their luster and the erstwhile flower-like beauty has lost its perfect- ness, and _is a mere drooping, withered semblance’ of its former self. External preparations for clearing the complexion will be of no avail so long as the internal Ecunomi] is neglected. The duty of food is two-fold. It should supply heat to the body and replace the tissues that are continually estroyed by labor and exercise. Therefore there are two kinds of food— that which is heat producing and that which is nutritious. Carbon and hydro- gen furnish the fuel to keep the fires of life burning, and all kinds of meat, bread, cakes and sweetmeats—in fact everything which can be made out of sugar, fat and flour, contain these ele- ments in large amounts. Fruit and veg- etables are almost wholly lacking in them. Therefore the diet shoul be changed with the seasons. In summer less heat-producing food should be taken. Eat things that are cooling instead of heating to the blood such as fruits and vegetables. Fresh ripd’ fruit reduces the temperature, improves the digestion and tones up the system gene{'a ly, and as a beauty food has no equal. n winter a larger supply of starchy and oily matters s needed. Meat con- tains fibrine, bread gluten, both of which elements are necessary for the renewal of destroyed tissues. Casein is fownd In milk and cheese, also in beans, peas and other vegetables, while eggs give us al- bumen, which is also found in®the soft parts of vegetables, particularly in the turnip. These substances are essentially the same and are all necessary to restore tissue ahd support life. Doughy food, such as heavy bread, un- derdone pastry and rich cake, can be di- gested only by the most hardy, and if ersistedsin are almost certain to cause mpaired digestion. 'here is quite as much in the cooking as in the food itself, and intelligence is required in _compounding nutritive foods out of crude ingredients. The avergge | cook does not possess this intelligence. A recent medical writer gave the follow- ing as his definition of a plain cook: *“A person of either sex who brings fire and meat and vegetables together and lets them fight It out among themselves for a dinner; the next bout being In the stomach of the unfortunate partaker of the repast, and the next, perhaps, with the doctor as bottle-holder.” Fried foods that are sent to the table swimming in grease will soon show their destroying effects upon the complexion, and ice cream soda water, that delight of the summer girl, is utterly ruinous in its effects, creating sad havoc in otherwise well ordered stomachs. As an hygiene bill of fare for the day 1 would suggest a breakfast consisting of fruit, a saucer of wheat, rice or hominy, which has been steamed for hours and served with rich cream, rolls or toast and fresh butter, and, if one must have some- thing substantial, eggs cooked in any way save fried, and a delicately broiled cho or bit of steak. To this may be add a_glass of milk or, if preferred, a cup of not very strong coffee or tea. For lJunch, croquettes of any sort of meat, cold meat, or some savory stew will be found palatable and healthful; a light salad, tea with lemon, bread sliced very thin and buttered, fresh fruit in season; and, out of season, cooked fruit, and cake which has been made with the proper proportions of butter, spice and eggs. Slnner, which should be the principal meal of the day, should begin with a soup to prepare the stomach for what is to follow, A roast of beef, game or pouitry, cooked until tender and nutritious, pota- toes, mashed or stewed in cream, some deliciously prepared vegetable, followed, desired, by a dish of Italian spaghetti and tomato sauce with grated cheese, and afterward a salad of lettuce, celery, chicory or cresses, dressed with ofl, and, for dessert, rice pudding, corn starch, s / custard, farina or fruit, cooked or raw. If dessert is not cared for, the dinner can be finished with crackers, Brie or other cheese and a small cup of black coffee. Bread should always be twenty-four hours old. Masticate your food thor- oughly and do not drink & guantity of water with meals. This should be drunk between meals and at least a quart of it a day. 3 Many foods are considered medicinal. Among these are spinach and dandelion, both of which have a direct influence upon kidney troubles, tomatoes which contain vegetable calomel and stimulate the secretions of the liver, celery which is recommended as a nerve tonic, and as- paragus, which is a blood purifier. R g Answers to Gorrespondents. F. N. P.—Here i{s a formula for cold cream that I think you will find delight- ful for general use: One-half ounce each of white wax and spermaceti, four ounces oil of sweet almonds and two ounces of orange flower water. Melt all together Yery gently and pour into cups to cool. When cool pour off the water. Remelt and pour into jars to keep. Use the cam- els hair face Scrubbing brush with tepid water and castile soap on the black- heads, also put a little bit of powdered borax on a bit of lime and rub it lightly over the nose. An occasional glass of lemonade is sometimes useful in correct- ing derangements of the system that have a tendency to tinge or spot the skin, but I would not advise you to take it as often as you suggest, as it thins and cools the blood and is very apt to prove debilitating. To massage around the eves, place the middle finger of each hand in the middle of the nose between the eyebrows, bring them down under the eyes, across the temples and around over the eyebrows to the starting point. Continue in this way for some time. Use & cold cream when massaging and do not stretch the skin. This IS as near as I can explain in print. Full directions for facial massage were given in the beauty talk of September 4, but really the best way to learn is to go to .a good masseuse, take one treatment, notice how she does it and then go and do likewise. An occa- sional steaming of the face is beneficial rather than otherwise, unless there are coarse pores. 1 can tell you nothing that will make black hair blacker, unless you use a dye, and this I never recommend. Massaging the checks and neck well with cold cream or some skin food will in- crease their firmness. RS. C.—The diagram referred to was one that was sent me by a correspondent, illustrating the method she had used in massagln% and asking if it was the prop- er one, There is nothing better in the way of a skin food than the following: Spermaceti, one-half ounce; white wax, one-half ounce; sweet almond oil, oné ounce; lanoline, one ounce; cocoanut oil, one otnce; tincture of benzoin, ten drqx‘ 2 orange flower water, one ounce, The is to be used directly after , and is only to be used in case ss of the skin. 1 would not se its being used for any length of time after the condition has been reme- died, as it will then be no longer neces gary. You can, if you like, smear a very little bit of cold cream on the face before powdering, but 1 prefer rosewater. It will make the powder stick just the same and is not at all greasy. g E. J.—There is nothing that will restore ray hair to its natural color but a dye. & ®o0d hair tonic 18 what you need.” Here help you: tincture English alum feel sure will ounces; is one that I Eau de cologne, eight cantharides, one ounce; oil of lavender, one-half dram; oil of rose- mary, one-half dram. Rub into the roots upon retiring. I consider a wire brush umfo(her too harsh to use upon the hair. do not care for face bleaches and have never experimented with the formula which you sent me. For that purpose, however, the ingredients are all ight, and I have no doubt it is a very excelient formula. LITTLE ROSIE—The Information you ask I prefer not to print in the paper. If Fou whi send me a stamped addressed en- velope I will give you the name of an acid that_will_accomplish what vou desire. UNE ANGLAISE—Do let me know how you are getting along, and if the reme. dies suggested were satisfactory. 1 am 80 interested in my newspaper corre- spondents that I like to hear from them the results of my suggestions, They can- not write to me too often. LUCILLE L.—Try massaging the hol- low places with equal quantities of cocoa butter, lanoline and cocoanut ofl melted together. Watch the beauty talks and you will soon find one about breathing exercises. The following oatmeal lotion is a splendid skin clearer and beautifier: Two tablespoonfuls fine oatmeal, boil and strain; when cold add one desertspoonful of wine (white Rhine preferred), and the juice of one lemon. Wash the face in THREE-PIECE TAILOR SUIT. Model in military blue cloth, coat Iined with satin de chine in same color, with white and black striped sleeve lining. this every night, not wiping it away. A _tonic made of equal parts of cocoanut oil and vaseline will make the eyvelashes grow, but you must not let it get into the eyes, as it will smart and inflame them. 1 gave wrections to Blonde in last Sunday's Call how to gain flesh. No doubt your friend saw it. For your bil- ious friend I would suggest that she eat plenty of fruit, particularly oranges and grapes; take a hot lemonade nightly while the biliousness lasts, and drink neither tea nor coffee. . C. G.—Your first letter was answered in the Sunday Call of October 9. I hope You saw it. B. J. E.—For the smallpox pits I would advise you to start in upon a systematic routine” of massage, going around and around over the surface of the face with the fingers well smeared with the skin food formula, which is given in reply to Mrs. C. Then, sometime during the day, apply this lotion: Alcohol, 12 drams; tincture benzoin, £ drams; liquid storax, 2 drams. Put ten drops of the mixture in half a glass of water, and with this sponge the scars, allowing it to dry on tge ‘ace. For the falling hair use the hair tonic suggested to E. J., unless your hair is very oily, in which case something else would be better. Touch the center of the wart lightly one a day with a lunar caustic pencil. It will turn black and gradually disappear. Great care must be taken not to touch with the pen- cil the surrounding skin, else a stain and scar may result. Here is a _good tooth owder: Carbonated magnesia (pow- ered), 6 parts; orris root, 2 parts; pure powdered soap, one-balf part. F. B. BUDD—Excessive perspiration is with many people a constitutional trou- ble, although it may in no way interfere with the general health. Sometimes, however, it is caused by extreme nerv- ousness and debllity, in which case it will probably prove to be very weaken- ing and may require medical treatment. Avoid hot baths and take a daily tepid sponge bath. If you will take three Rart- of rice powder and mix one part of finely wdered orris root with it you will find t very nice for excessive perspiration. Apply it freely with a flannel cloth. Do not allow yourself to become excited. MARGARET—You are right. The diet has much to do with facial blemishes. However, it is not so much the quantity one eats as the quality. Avoid all greasy rich foods, and eat plenty of fruit. Above all, keep the body scrupulously clean by taking a daily tepid sponge bath and a warm tub bath once or twice a week. Then each night scrub the face well with a camel's hair face scrubbing brush, tepid water and castile SO&%‘ after which a good cold cream sheuld be thoroughly rubbed into the skin. A little piece of powdered borax put on a piece of linen and rubbed lightly into the skin will also help. Je regrette, ma chere mign- onne de n’avoir pu repondre plustot a votre lettre, mais il a fallu qu'elle at- tende son ' tour comme les autres. Recrivez moi. ALMA T.—There is no local applica- tion that I know of that will positively remove the congested little blood vessels. Very often they will scatter and d pear of themselves. Sometimes applica- tions of_ witchhazel will help to disperse them. I am sorry I cannot give you greater comfort ‘than this. I do not think it at all likely that any one will ascribe the condition of your face to the cause you mention, so do not let that trouble you. F. 8. C.—I should not change the temperature of the water in which I rinse my face if I were you. Wash it in tepid water and rinse it in tepid water. I would not advise any one to take ar- senic, unless prescribed by a physician. — ToQUES gRE GominGg PARIS, Oct. 9.—Autumn is here. hats proclaim it. A declded little autumn note has crept into hats and bonnets this week. The fluffy white picture hats are giving place to somber smaller hats whose chiefest charm is chic. Most of the smartest of the new hats are toques shaped specially to perch comfortably on the top of the pronounced “pompadour,” and there is a.decided pref- erence for the toque that tilts directly up at the front. Flowers and feathers are being replaced by wings and birds. Not the tiny birds that have been so much in vogue, but pig- eons and still larger sea birds with wings all distended. Often on one of these dark straw toques just a single bag bird with outstretched wings constitutes’ the trimming. i Another important feature of this fall's Tue hats is the graceful Louis XVI bow of wired velvet or ribbon that adorns so many of the smarter toques. It h a careless, s graceful, _‘“just-happened-so’ look, and it seems as though the slightest fall ‘breeze would disarrange the clever arrangement of loops. Touch this bow, though, and you are convinced i.at it i as solid as the little gold brooch that it has been modeled from, so securely is it wired. % An attractive, unconventional little straw toque is made of rough green straw. The brim is rolling and turned up directly at the front and back, allowing the sides to dip. An arran~ement of chestnut burrs and leaves literally covers the crown. On the front of the brim and a trifle to the left side is a Louis XVI bow of black velvet drawn through a hoop of strass. Perched on the top of a puffy, fluffy, up- to-date coiffure, the curve of this toque is exceedingly graceful. A dressier little toque desirned for a visiting toilet is made of spangled pale gray mousseline de soie draped full. At the front there are thre§ immense wings in a striking_shade of burned orange, tipped with black. Two of them are brought back flat at the sides so that they rest on the hair and the middle wing mounts the togue. At the front there is a tiny ruche of narrow velvet ribbon that is scarcely visible. L A simple, girlish affair is made of plait- ed gilt braid and narrow mauve velvet ribbon. It is fashioned in tne form of a square Tam o' Shanter, that turns di- rectly . up at the front. There it is trimmed with a tall bow of wide old gold gatin ribbon drawn through a square buckle of amethysts. Novices in the art of cleaning gloves at home must keep in mind that gaso- line, and not benzine, renders kid as soft as new, and the gloves should not be washed on the hand, but immersed and rubbed between the hands as if using water. A quart of this fluid may be bought at a paint store for five cents and half a pint will clean' a pair of gloves or more, this to be divided into two parts, one for washing and the other for rinsing. Great care must be used when handling these inflammable materials. Although hanging in the open air does not do away with the un- pleasant odor it m.st never be neg- lected, as evaporation takes place and renders goods harmle-- which other- wise would ignite readily or in some cases mizht be actually explosive. TAILOR COSTUME WITH CUTAWAY COAT.