The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 16, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 16, 1898. 27 PPPPOPOPPPOOOPVPPVPPVPPPOPPPPOLOCPPPPVPPPVVPPOOPPOOCOOPPPOOOQS® Dress as ap fid to Beauty. \ XN ORORT: o ® @ LRCRCROR R R R R R éwalldw-@ail— — Latgst ® P @ & JACKETS a lover, but > LL the world love » world's wifl It is not that she lovi a lover less that she lov bells are schedulec bridal finery to beauty-loving ing through th rt harmonized with bunches of orange >wn of the r L WEAR. PP000006000000 @ R R R R OR R R R RORCRORCR R R R X 4 skirt was carried out for the fromt of the bodice and tiny ruffles of the mou- seline completed the effect. The bridesmaids, Miss Bernice Drown, Miss Eva Madden and Miss Bertha were gowned exactly alike and ry winsome and dainty. The ts were of green taffeta, cut very ose over the hips and entirely covered with white pompadour mousseline. The pompadour mousseline comes in pat- terns and has a deep border that gives the effect of an over-flounce. pink rosebuds were scattered mousseline and the border of the same coloring. The green th gave the skirt the W3 taffeta undern appearance of a sheath of green sup- porting the flowerlike bodice. The bo- dice was also of green taffeta and the white pompadour mousseline embroid- ered in pale pink buds was laid over it in irplice folds. This surplice- like effect is going to entirely supplant the blouse effects of last winter. While none of these gowns that I have just d ed unduly elabor- nevertheles require an art- in the making, and the ma- , while the are soft, are never- very expensive. s wh st economize should of di fon in the C dding gown. To be rried in the traveling gown may be ible, but it does not appeal to ymen. But even if white is can be inexpensive and can be sly planned for future use. ioubtedly very pretty for but it is-always expen- hite taffeta can be pur st half the cost of satin. may be chiffon, mousse- unless you are ssess some real gown made the essence icity, and it is bound to be Eschew a long train and do attempt to demi-train unless ure of your dressmaker’s ca- and surer of ur own ability it. For a miscut or mishan- in is a hideous deformity to an easing appearance. o have the gown made , one high and one de- t the same gown can do mal affair, where full dress and will also be appropriate informal affair. tty wedding gown can be made expensive silk crepes and by this aterial the necessity of a silk foundation is done away with. A T > silk can be used and the f chiffon can be dispensed st of the wedding gown is duced. etty white glace silk gown » at a recent wedding. The flounce of chiffon and an leated chiffon sash edged h narrow chiffon ruffies. The bodice of the silk laid in soft folds with a and sle of tucked chiffon. nother style of white glace silk trimm with very narrow , has a sash and body - folds drawn across under the left shoulder ea. is a very graceful design d one that does not take a great deal material. veil and orange blossoms “are ; appendages of the wedding , although they are sométimes ed with. bridesmaids should be gowned The ‘. E \ CPPPPOOOCO®PO By Mme. Hygeia. XX R X X ¥ ERCR ER PPP00POPOO0V000POVPOPVOO00O000PCPV0000PPVP9P000000000000S @ This department is for the benefit if all those who are interested in ti.e science of cosmetics and the hy- glene of proper living. If any cne desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you pleacc and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to X.me. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francsico. CHANCED to ring a friend's door- bell one day last week, fully expect- ing, as I did so, to be told that she was out enjoying the balmy air and glorious sunshine. Instead, I found that she was at home, and was shown upstalrs to her own particular sanctum. Here I found her cofled up on her sofa, her black hair tousled, un- mistakable traces of tears upon her cheeks and with lips pouting like those of a spoiled child, a heap of disconsolate femininity. Her shades were closely drawn, although the bright, glad sun- shine tapped upon her window panes and peeped through ‘the crevices of the cur- tains as though pleading for admittance. “Whatever is the matter?” I demand- ed, “and why are you not out enjoy- ing this God-given day, instead of mop- ing in the dismal shadows of this room, looking as though the world, the flesh and the devil had lost all attractions for you?" “There!” she said, pointing dramati- cally with one slim finger to a small heap upon the floor. ‘“There is the rea- son!"” By this time my eyes had become ac- customed to the darkness of the room, and I stepped over to the heap and lifted it in my hands. It straightened out into a very :dsome modish princess gown of the shade of blue that is to be %o fashionable a color the coming sea- son. “Well,” I s consolate on turning around and around in my hand. ult to be found with the cut “1 see of that X “The cut, no,” she cried, .springing from the sofa, pulling up the shades and taking the thing from my hands, “but the color! Look! DIid you ever see any one look such a color as I do in it?” And, truly, the effect was startling. The blue of the gown against her sallow complexion and black eyes, which is the most frequent type of the black haired woman, med to bring out the most peculiar shades of green in her com- Jlexion, while her eyes appeared luster- fess ana her hair looked fke something more than a smudge of charcoal. “That,” she said, “is the gown that has just been sent me by my New York dressmaker, and over which I have been making myself lll. Do you wonder?” “But, dear child,” sald I, “why, with your coloring, did vou ever select blue?”’ ‘I didn’t, she pouted. “I told my dressmaker to send me the very latest there it is. color, and m “and had your eyes been blue, instead of black, your skin clear ana pale, instead of sallow, this color could not have been improved upon. Then you could have worn blue particularly of the sapphire shades and of the Chinese colors, such as come in the Canton crepes. With 'that type dark red might also be worn; very pale shell pink, blue, grays SOME OF THE LATEST PARIS CAPES. simply and should make a harmonious color background to bring out the whiteness of the bride's apparel. s e LATEST Paris JACKETS. Special to the Sunday Call. ARIS, Oct. 6.—The cool October breezes have brought In their wake the new fall jackets. They In no- wise resemble the modes that have prevailed during the summer, and still less are they like those that were worn last fall The very latest thing s the “swallow- tall coat.”” It is modeled closely after the masculine “swallow-tail,” and a jabot of lace or mousseline de soie takes the place of the stiff shirt front. The jack- et may be closed at the front, and it is then trimmed with reveres orna- mented with braid to glve the jacket a dressy air. Box coats, cut after the “swallow-tail, are going to be rather popular, although the close-fitting jactets look more trim. The redingotes are cut with straight fronts, but fit close {nto the curves of the figure ‘at the back. The high Medicis col- lar {8 usually trimmed with a blas band of stiched cioth. The sleeves are close- fitting. The bottom of the coat is cut in a rounding point. The smartest of the redingotes envelop the entire figure, showing but a glimpse of the front of the gown underneath. Army jackets are not as popular on this side of the ocean as they are on yours. Those that are worn here are not strictly according to army rules and reg- ulations. They are cut long, and the broad, heavily stitched belt is fastened at the front with a buckle, The top of the sleeves and the edges have the strap finish. Capes are worn within twelve inches of the bottom of the gown. They are trimmed with from one to three frills of the same material. Some of these gar- ments show another shorter cape of a different material, but shaped er the under cape. Goif and shawl capes are still worn, but the new patterns are very m;ch lonxer.d : ‘or capes designed to show the W) there are dressy little collets of \fiverlx and mousseline de sole. They reach a bit below the waist line and are fashloned in a rounding point at the back. This length garment is the only one that short women should affect. The long redin- gotes or capes are designed only for tall women. A petite woman in one of these i8 a subject for a cartoonist. -— New I[bEas IN DRESS. ; ‘A your skirt down the back. How does this appeal to you? It will certainly have the advantage of obviating any pos- sibility of the open placket hole, which too often reveals the inharmonious corset and unattractive petticoat. As a matter of fact, T have no right to find fault at the moment with the petticoats and stays of the Egiishwoman. We have undoubt- edly improved vastly in such matters, and row it is quite a rare thing to meet the gray coutille stays and white linen petti- coat trimmed with Swiss embroidery and the high white slip bodice with the crochet edging, formerly the almost universal wear of Jour countrywomen and mine. I have had an excellent opportunity of ex- amining the underclothing of the natives at Cromer while bathing, and I find that for the most part it {8 very satisfactory. “‘But among one of the most satisfac- tory costumes on the beach—and one I have quite forgottgn to chronicle—was a dark Dblue, alpaca worn with a dark blue surah. shirt, checked with lines of white beading, completed with a blue and red and green plaid tie, the small blue toque turning up in front with a large bow of shaded blue velvet shot with red shading off to orange. I am told that orange is much sought after in foreign circies and that a very pretty model hat tones from the brightest note of the scarlet geranium to the tone of the yellow nasturtium. This would really be Very lrilng to any but the supremest beauty, although the finish- ing touch of black quills might soften the harsh effect to some extent. “It apears that buttons are to be muh patronized, and thére are many fanciful designs being prepared by the manufac- ers in different sorts of metal and enamel, the most successful of these being repro- ductions from the old designs in a com- bination of oxidized sflver and dla- monds, Bhort, close fitting Jackets, after the FASHIONABLE WOMAN,” In the Englishwoman, writes: Eton order, showing the longer waist- coat with or without a band, some cov- ered all over with woven braid, are ex- ceedingly well worn. Just now the fronts are often chiffon, but as the season ad- vances this will give place to thicker fabrics and smart walistcoats. Soft china crepe sashes of bright color will sur- round the waist of many autumn dresses and fal] in two ends at the back, and in tea and many evening dresses the stole ends will continue to droop from the front of the bodice at the shoulder to the hem, and several new ideas are displayinj themselves under this head. China sil and gauze ribbons have the patterns upon them outlined in gems and sequins, and so have the lace Insertions used for the same urpose. Occasionally these are drawn Pnto the figure by the belt, but are often allowed to fall free. Sometimes jacket fronts have a slit at the waist, some three inches from the center of the front, throufih which the soft sash or stiff waist-belt passes, leaving the imme- dfate front unconfined. Most of the new sleeves nverhnn‘ the hands. Some tea gowns are cut low, with elbow sleeves made of plece lace—much newer than the chiffon even for those which come to the wrist—then a lace scarf is carelessly thrown about the neck, with the ends falling downward. Once more we are to_have over and under ‘which take the form of tunics an Occasionally the latter are of redingotes. ' lfl lm‘ and white, both cream and blue, white and ‘black, both solid and transparent. “But for your eyes and skin you will find that nothing will form a better set- ting than black, relieved with white or a dark, warm gray, and occasfonally a dull red or flame color. With your eyes, which are unusually fine, the gown that 1 would suggest and in which you would look like & photograpn from the portrait of some old master, would be of black material, with some transparent white at the throat to cast light upon the face. Dull, gold ornaments, or none at all— never jewels. They are too brilliant to be becoming to your type.” “All very well,” interrupted the Discon- solate Oné, “buf that does not relieve my mind in the matter of this gown. What am 1 to do with {t?” “Give it to your sister,” I cried, in- spirationally, “her figure is very like yours, and ‘with her “golden halr, hazel eyes and luminous skin, nothing could be better than this blue, or, in fact, almost any shade of blue from the turquoise blue, through the pale peacock blues to blue' gray and gray blue. Hellotrope in all shades she can wear to particular advantage, also olive green, light and dark, black, mauve pinks. amethyst, pale amber and cream white, but let her touch blue-white, orange-scarlet, tan color, blue- pux#le. |lve%der and fawns at her 1. “The cool blonde, she of the thin, whits trapsparent skin, with a roseate flush, or gnle delicate cheek, and ‘pale golden or axen hair, has opportunity for some of the cool, delicate, refreshing harmonies of color that she of the warmeér type may not venture upon. She may wear jet: black or blue-black, pale green with white or with gray, all cold blues from dark to light, purplish white, violet-pink,. Javen- der and pale pink. In nothing, however, will_she look more charming than in dlaphanous materials such -as muslin, grenadine, gauze or cambric. “The colors to be avoided by blondes of this type are yellow, greens, reds, warm violets, cream wiifte, ambers, olives, browns, fawns, tans and warm blues. ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. MRS. L. G.—Use peroxide of hydrogen upon the superfluous hairs on the arms. Apply with a small soft sponge. Massage the baggy chin and throat with a good, pure, home-made skin food and give them an occasional alum bath. A small piece of alum the size of a bean, dissolved in a pint of cold water, being quite sufficient. AN OAKLAND GIRL—Try bathing the pimglvs on the chin with listerne diluted in three times as much boiled water. If that is not efficacious touch them with tincture of myrrh. MRS. M.—Never, under any circum- stances, take obesity pills or other adver- tised flesh-reducing medicines that you do not know anything about. Exercise indulged in with discrimination, is excel lent. The reason for this is not the phy sical exertion so much as being in th open air. Fat is carbonaceous, and oXy gen destroys carbon. By taking plenty of oxygen into the lungs carbon is consumed. On the other hand, when .exercise in- creases the appetite and cau longer hours of sleeping, it will increase rather than reduce flesh. diet of exclusively lean meat, baked bread, tea, coffee and only vegetables that are grown above the ground, will not increase the weight, but after a month will diminish it. Do not sleep more than six or eight hours, rise early, take a tepid bath and a breakfast of hot coffee without cream, milk or sugar, and toast without butter. or’ luncheon, lean beef or mutton, crackers or dry toast, with tea or coffee. For dinner about the same with the addi- tion of one vegetable grown above the ground. Exercise moderately and swim in cold water as frequently as possible, as this uses the carbon both in exercise and to keep up the temperature of the body. Weigh yourself before starting in with this regimen, weigh yourself again at the end of a month and let me know of how much ¥esh you have lost. Mind, you are to_eat nothing between meals. E. E. E.—To reduce the size of the hips a general reduction of fat Is_necessary. Avoid all sugary and starchy foods. Ban- ish_untoasted bread. notatoes. buttermilk and fats from the dalily bill of fare. Then each morning go through the exercises of standing straight and touching the floor with your hands without bending the knees. Buy your corsets of Some one wio understands her business, and let her fit you to_a corset that ig suited to your fig- vre. She can advise you better on this point than L INFORMATION—I fear I cannot help you much as far as the large knuckles are concerned. To _soften, whiten and plumpen the hands melt equal parts of cocoa butter, oil of sweet almonds and refined white wax. Rub this well into the hands before retiring. There is, I believe, a patented contrivance, thimble shaped, which is worn on the ends of the fingers to give them the desired taper. I cannot tell you where you will find them. BERTHA—The formula for hair tonic which 1 gave you Is as follows: Tw drams tincture cantharides, six drams es- sence of rosemary, eleven ounces elder flower water. You can get the face brush from almost any of the druggists in the city. I cannot give addresses in thes columns. If you do not happen to kno the address of one send me a stamped addressed envelope and I will be glad to send you name and address of a shop where I know they can be procured. LILLIE B.—Go to a hair store and buy a roll, or “rat,” as some people call gem. Fasten to the hair and comb vour pbmp- adour over it. That is the only thing I know of that will cause the hair to stand out and have the fluffy look it should have. To reduce plumpness of the neck massage with some good cold cream, taking the flesh up between the fingers and rolling and pinching it. Of course the piriching must be gentle. This will dissolve the tissues. 'hen in order to keep the flesh from becoming flabby bathe the néck in water in which a smalil piece of alum has been dissolved. A piece the size of a bean to a pint of cold water is_quite sufficient. BLONDE—-I think if you will apply the following sedative lotion to your face be- fore exposure to the sun and wind it will obviate the excessive tendency to irritation of the skin: Distilled witch hazel, 3 ounces; prepared .cucumber juice, 3 ounces; rosewater, 1% ounces; essence white rose, 11z ounces; simple tincture of benzoin, half an ounce. ub this into the skin with the flr}ger tips and let the cuticle absorb it. hen apply a pure vegetable powder. To put on flesh, first of all you must bid a fond farewell to the habit of fussing and worrying. Get lots of sleep, and if convenient take be- fore rising a cup of hot milk or of milk and cocoa well sugared. Take tepid baths and exercise moderately. Eat all the starchy, fattening foods, such as rice, butter, cereals, eggs, milk and game, taploca, sago, vermicelll or custard pud- ding, macaroni, cheese and salad served with plenty of oil, but no vinegar; they are all good. Avoid pickles and acids of all kinds. A teaspoonful of olive oil taken several times a day, and frequent rub- bings of the body with olive oil, will help the good work along. CORA V.—The orange flower skin food should keep your face from becomin ‘rough. Perhaps the blod becomes over- heated at times and dries the skin. Here is the formula for a most delightful cream, which is particularly good for sunburn and for refining and_whitening the skin of the hands: Spermacet, 1 ounce; white wax, 1 ounce; oil of sweet almonds, 5 ounces; rosewater, 13- ounces; powdered bora%, 2 grains; es sence 'of clover, 5 drops. The above quantities will fill an S-ounce jar, which will Jast you all winter. The brown spots on your mother's face and arms are probably liver spots, and nothing wiil banish them until the disordered lfver which causes them is remedied. "AGNES B.—Do not try to reduce the size of your bust unless you do so by a general flesh-reducing diet. All sorts of harm can come about by trying the reme- dies that are sald to make the bust smaller. For the flabbiness, use the alum bath suggested to Mrs. L. You might try lemon juice and borax—fifteen grains to the ounce—or those brown spots on your hands; but if, as I strongly suspect, they are liver spots, nothing fn the world will permanently do away with them until thelr cause (a disordered liver) is reme- ed. DIMPLE CHEEK—To improve the com- plexion, follow the general health rules which I have so often laid down in these columns, and which, if you are a constant reader of my department, you must have seen_more than once. For the freckles, use\fifteen grains of borax in one ounce of lémon juice. For the projecting bones, massage each night with lanoline, partly lenty of fattening foods. melted, and eat you desire under the The effect whic eyes is neither healthy looking nor pretty, and I cannot suggest any means by which it may be brought about. Touch the pimples with listerine, dlluted with three times as much boiled water, or with tine- ture of myrrh. With a stout face, I would advise drawing the front hair back and up in pompadour style, rather close at the sides, the long tresses puffed and piled up_quite loftily on top of the head. MRS. HENRY L. G.—In order to gun the amount of flesh that you desire, fol- low the directions given in foregoing re- ply to Blonde. To enlarge the bust and ada plumpness to the neck, massage with equal parts of cocoa butter, lanoline and cocoanut ofl melted together. Heat before applying and massage the neck and _bust every night for fifteen minutes. Wear loosé clothing and discard all pads. A very good lotion with which to whiten the skin is made by pressing the juice out of the green cucumber and heating it un- til a white scum rises to the top. Skim this and then strain. Diiute it about one- third with rosewater and apply each ight. M DELAIDE—A good face powder is made by sifting over and over again one ounce of Lubin’s rice powder with three ounces of pure oxide of zinc and adding three drops of oil of roses. Better let vour druggist mix this for vou, as face s are very troublesome to make, one has the proper appliances. THE NEWEST ENGUSH COAT. A pretty blonde walked along Upper Broadway one afternoon last week creating a decided sensation along the Rialto. Her milky fairness of skin, the roge tint of her cheeks and the unsightly “bun” in which she had her beautiful hair twikted, proclaimed her one of the newest importations in Eng- lish Gayety Girls. But the sensation she created was owing to a most pecullar garment which she wore, a direct importation from London, and one of the weirdest and most wonderful fashions that have come to New York from the English cap- ital. it was a coat cut exactly like a man's reaching from the collar to the hem of the skirt. The material looked like a transparent rubber or a mixture of silk and rubber, and its color was a pinkish, yellowish white that looked ag though it might feel cold and clammy to the touch. There was a collar of velvet matching the oddly tinted rubber, but of darker shade.