The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 2, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 2, 1898 \ ‘(\‘\ Special to the Sunday Call. EW YORK, Oct. 1L—It is the time T of times now for an afternoon walk. Never is the year a: bea in October. T t warmly eno E are temperate to meet all _th s which milady now wears. If Easter calls for a new gown, October cails for one nome the nd the dr of autumn are quite autiful and as novel as those of ay be sald that where a separate s worn the waist will be plaid. 1s an almost universal rule. It is plain blac mmed ¢ h a plaid de- ‘hese walsts are now and then made aid silk, but more often of cloth, be acknowledged that the olds its color better than silk can be worn to better advantage. There is something o fitting about a 1 dress for the strect that most wo- much prefer it to silk colors i se plaids are red, blue, green, pink, and I might almost say the calors um, violet, ind orange and ors are seen in although lapels. 7 them and & neckties are waists and one street the-other day end red stripe, worn green and black and red p as the and r aw = for e to th imaginable is worked § checks and- plaids. 1 well remember a talk which I had with- Denman Thompson in the parlor RN ] s P g beautiful. Some of the less expensive fans in crepe de chine are painted with flowers, which are continued on to the ivory sticks; others, in pure white silk, display quaint figures, small trailing leaves and an outline of paillettes; while some of the newest lace fans have the ivory mount divided into two by means of a strip of lace, which is separated from =f0R=— 2 4t (J(TOBER £ o2 R R AR R R R R R R R R A R R R L out, but they are for the moment sub- sidiary to the painted ones. == e A quaint situation was- provided at a recent dinner party in London. The menu bore the announcement “Pommes a I'Ir- lande, 15685,” and the dish resolved itself into potatoes in their jackets, put on the table In a silver dish, surrounded by a B R R R RN R RN R AR R R RN AN NNL RN NN NN SN N B RN R G - AFTERNOON @O tical jokes in the midst of dinner, but they were the confirmed gourmands, and so did not count. HROCKS OF BRRLUNRNNUURN NN L NEW IDEA IN STREET BODICE. blue silk trimmed at the bottom with a double ruching Y of “the ruching were of cufrassier > roll of silk with a felt hat it is over the face and a little tnglish walking hat} not worn as far pver trimried ‘with btrd of para- is trimmed s or other autumn of the hat next with autumn anthemums. 1den rod and chrys mums are very small, al- cided Medicis, tle from the n This year th In the mor frock coat of nav ted frock coats cloth and recently avenue made of fnformed of appeared an e of the men’s fashion papers sack coat on the ence, had decided to take a on land and his costume was a pair of light s, Sack coat of dark green cloth and a derby. One of the witty writers, perhaps it is s that a sack coat common in America, I that silk hats ver be worn with any but the y the dignified Prince with the silk hat, ssary to say 8anpanas. REVIVAL of an old fashion was seen i a smart gown made of ) bright bandana handkerchiefs of red and yvellow, notes a New York chronicler of fashions. The skirt, cut with the shaped front and wide flounce, s Wwas_ effective, as the handkerchiefs shawed the style to great advantage. The waist was tight-fitting at the back, but in front had a blouse. There was a square yoke and V-shaped front of tucked white mousseline de sofe, and belt and collar of black satin, with' a turned-down collar of white embroidery and lace. The hat worn with this gown was a black fancy ‘straw, trimmed with a big bow across the front of black. satin ribbon and a long buckle of rhinestones. The entire gown .was made up over, white taffeta silkk, so it was. not ‘the inexpensive ‘little costume that might have been imagined. This’same ‘gown has been made up In the silk bandana handkerchiefs and is one of the most effective models of the late sum- mer. UITE a new color is just beginning to be seen 1In fashlonable “resorts, ‘and s likely to be the tint for néxt ¥year: : It is neither the shade-of tea nor coffeg, but of .the very lightest tone of |sand, ysed sométimes to plant flowers in. In-barege, mousseline de sole and kin- dred materials, it has a great deal to recommend it. Being exceptionally soft, it is' far better without any trimming or color; but blue, pink or yellow looks very well with it. It is becoming more and more the mode to veil one tone with an- other, and .we are certain to have more and more demand for neutral shades, which 1s all very well for the pretty woman but not so acceptable to the mass of the community. ———————— The largest kitchen in the world is in that great Parisian store, the Bon Marche, which has 4000 employes. The smallest kettle contains 100 quarts ané the largest 500. Each of the ..fty roast ing pans is big enough for 500 cutlets L the wider lace with spangl lac ans derly painted plerced silver circle evidently of great Each dish for baking potatoes holds 225 v. The host had bought a potato pounds. When omelettes are on the bill at 4 sale of Irish antlques, and wish- ¢ £5rc 7800 eggs are used at once. For oW how Potatoes were eaten al oooking alone sixty cooks and one hun- with tortoiseshell moun engraved on the rin Eac - 8 ground for the most beautiful painti invited to choose his own po- dred assistants are always at the Others again, such as black silk with tato, which was gravely eaten. Then Tranges. fvory motnts, are not only painted but the tableful went back fo larks in aspic —_—— inlaid with gold, and some of the gauze and other latter-day dainties, and thank- A single épénge has been' found on the fans have quaint floral patterns in span- its stars it lived in 18 instead of coast of Florida with a circumference of gles. Ostrich feather fans have not gone Some of the men growled over prac- five feet six Inches. 000000000000 0000C000000000000C00000000000000000000000Q00000 How to Bg Beautiful. By Mme. Hygela. (] © < © © © o © o o (] 00000000000000000000000000000000000000C0000C0C000000000000 \ ; | R A AW Wi THIS STYLE COMBINATION PLAIb ‘WILL BE MUCH WORN. dipped in olive oil. The only certain treatment for “hang nalls” Is to cut them off close with sharp scissors, and then let the wound heal under a tiny plece of court plaster. Never pull these little pieces of skin off, for intense pain will e the result, and the evil worse than it was before. BIRDIE Y. Z—The following cold cream I think you will find satisfactory: Spermaceti, 1 ounce; white wax, % ounce; ofl of sweet almonds, 2% ounces; rosewater, four-fifths ounce; powdered borax, 10 grains; essence of clover, 8 drops. Try the sage tea for your hair. Take a handful of the leaves and 1 them into a tea. Add two tablespoonfuls of alcohol to the quart and use this as you would any tonic, applying it to the roots of the hair just before going to bed at night. Then every two or three weeks shampoo the head with the yolk of one egg well beaten up in one ounce of rosemary spirits. and one pint dis- tilled water. Rinse well in several wé- ters after using. To obtain the develop- ment you desire I would advise you to g0 to work and fatten the entire body. This can he Qone by strict attention to the dilet and abstaining from all worry. Fat all the starchy, fattening foods, such as rice, butter, cereals, eggs, milk and game. Hot chocolate and preserved figs are good to increase flesh. Get all the sleep you can, and the last thing at night and the first thing in the morning take a cup of hot milk. Take tepid baths and exercise moderately. A teaspoonful of olive oil taken several times a - day and frequent rubbings of the body wit olive oil will help. The only way te bring a natural color into the cheeks and lips is to get some of the roses of health. Wines and beer have an especial tendency toward producing pimples and black- heads, and should therefore be rigidly excluded from the dietary. M. T. HENRY—It is an exceedingly risky matter to experiment with so deli- cate an organ as the eve, and I should adyvise you to consult a first-class oculist. CLARA—The skin food should be firm and smooth. Of course it is better to rse the exact proportions given, still the mis- take that you made will not detract from its virtue unless you used too much of the benzoin. I should not advise more than a teaspoonful. If the pores are clogged I would not advise you to use the lotion yets See that they are freed of ‘their secre- tions first by using a camel's hair face- scrubbing brush and pure Castilé soap- and the skin food. Then, when they are clear, you can use the skin food and. the lotlon. Rotarv means around. The skin food will in _time fill out the hollows" in the neck. I do not know which 'skin whitener you réfer to, as I have given recipes for several. MAYFIELD—I faney that you are not:, perfectly strong physically. Anvining that will give a stronger constitution is. pretty sure to bring luxu good nt locks. This almonds, 30 - semary, k)] of mace, 1 gram. Anoint p every night, rubbing it ~‘wéll into the roots and taking care not to get it on the hair shafts, as it will make the hair \'91'{1 olly 3 G. A. M.—] do not happen to have, in my very large collection of formulas, one for the hair tonic you ask for. It is nearly always Jamaica rum that is used for these things. Why not ask your druggist for the proportions? There i not_the slightest danger of benzoin uséd as I have directed making hair grow on the face. T. 1 ._S.—As the cocoanut oil -has' not heen efficactous suppose you try the following, which is very fattening: One ounce each of lanoline, cocoanut oil- and 1 hutter. Warm the palms of.:the slightly before beginning the mas- and rub around and arotind and. up. Keep it up for ten or fifteen minutes. In the morning dash cold water on the- breast. ‘If you wear pads or tight cloth- ing the massage will be of no use. It must be accompanied by a diet-of fatten~ ing foods. AVELYN—The- ointment for the éye= lashes must be applied very carefully, . for it will inflame the eyes if it gets into them, as any oil will.” Barely dampen your ' brush _in it and apply from _the outer side. you cannot use it withoat its getting into your eyes discontinue it. BIRDIE GOOD—The electric needle. is- the only thing that will permanently re- move superfluous hair, and_ this IS’ not practicable save where the hairs are coarse or scattered. Peroxide of hydro- gen, if applied to the hairs, will lighten them so that they will be scarcely per- ceptible. ¥ LEONIE W.—For the red hands use lemon juice, but be sure to rub well with a good cold cream as soon as the juice is dry. — Otherwise the skin will become harsh and rough and in a condition -to chap. 5 g indeed, it be worn with an over- This department is for the benefit if all those who are interested in the science of cosmgtics and the hy- her long garment. giene of proper living. If any cne desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- > convice the wom Lo hey cont for men called the fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you pleacc and sign any se skirts were. coat, rather full in the skirt; but it is an name that you choose. Address all communications to Ame. Hygeia, The Synday Call, San Francsico. ith the actor, stood in the ¢ K : Slefinn Lol LUl the (nformal coat. It is worn for coaching of a palace hotel, :\l%fi;énfifutnfi;fi‘fi? DO s B I R ¥ correspondence has assum- the contents of a not too lavishly filled 13 very risky to apply any sort of a lo- 1 passed through on their “arD, It 18 the derby. d such alarming proportions purse. Her gown was spotless always, tion. It is sure to get into the eyes ani s rough on their “The raglan is made of dark cloth and it £ i RS er hair glossy and well cared for. Her injure or weaken them. it Skttt exclaimed Mp, 18 Single-breasted. It can only be cut out that I have dectded to say proo L ST Tilelled nor her cheeks M. AT do' mot prescribe medicine. I 8 A'u - llun' Air. by the best tallors, but it is the fashion- just a word or two about rouged. She 'was merely a healthy, -ac- should advise 1310“ to see a physldmg at hich \“-,AX,P "MT oo ‘Mu’r':'\]‘)‘Tx?ap)g‘"{‘h:":{émf F{’}\‘; beauty in general to-day, and t{\'u, lwel)-hnlltlwoman, W!}Imsle‘ face, ‘m- onnlemgnd tell him the conditlon of your s not eral coats OrC 3 a : " v el - though possessing no particular regular- system. L i ot intended for single-breasted light cloth overcoat, the [0 devote most of my epace to answer- [IOUEh, POSSESSIDE DS PRISSOHER VAR, SRR im Here s the formula for oat a S long double-breasted black cloth overcoat g v sweet womanliness, kindness and unsel- meal lotion: Two tablespoonfuls fine oat- vill no of light welght and the short black over- I hope that no one has gathered the fopeces S ileos K i o Theal: Pol and. steamn P W nen cold aad b 1}““”,“*‘"1‘ Irom coat. But men who are content with one jdea from these beauty talks that I am beautiful woman I have ever seen. one dessertspoonful of wine (white Rhine Br s ey aanion fout, arg biying overcoats of mediim an advocate of beauty culture to the 5o ‘while ¥ou are correeting faclal e preferred) and the fuice of omo leman, * - € u he- 3 , do’ ) E i a very o 3 ects_ al 6 same me COTTex B ' frrational, so will the weight. Men's coat sleeves are somewhat SYCIUSIon of all else. There is no doubt (}C¥L0 iion and character. Clear out nourish the tissues and thus fill out the padded to make them very squa: 2L alosoon 2 Pretty Woman the gark corners of the heart and let in face and neck. It should be left upon the P dered. s shoulde 5 quite the winsom ng the sunshine of cheerfulness, thus chasing s«in at night after massag] nd washe nued he, ] A hould, 1 ite the most winsome thi that ‘heerful th hasing ight aft ing and hed 3 A gt 13 gmailer men’ m to grow larger. ever was created, and yet a beautiful all shadows and Incidentally wrinkles off with tepld water the following morn- polnting to A woman’s sleev are so modified thi§ woman, whose only thought is the en- from the face. ing. In my reply to Troubled One in Sun- J Read the thoughts of superior minds, day's issue of September 11, I went over 3 °Weeping into the room, year that you scarcely notice them except e vati y e They gather all ti3 for thelr trimmings, whereas a man's bancement and preservation of her phy- o330 tOp LICHRMS O0 SORNIT ToRoot the question of treatment for pimples and ; they cannot be fash- ghoulders are so square that you wonder Sical charms to the utter neglect of those tha Peauty of these thoughts, and an n- blackheads. In my beauty talk in the if he has been in training. qualities of mind and disposition which tellectual graciousness will take the issue of September 18 I treated the sub- at once attract even when unaccompa- place of that apathetic expression born of ject of blackheads very fully. Both is- nied by beautiful features, is like a rose unawakened interest In aught save per- sues have been published since your let- gt ol T \ ¢ sonal adornment, which mars the other- ter was written. Steaming the face often without perfume—whose charm is gone wiga perfect facés of S0 many women. has a clearing effect upon the skin. Bathe when its petals are faded. 1 really have Think of others oftener than of voursélf, ing the face In half a cupful of sweet no use whatever for the girl who puts cultivate a gracious manner, a low, well milk in which a pineh of soda has been dis- words of thé veteran the following se were cut off, and to touch the street, i rOS - harely allowed and I wondere wears 1t d lir ye daes sw train by a foot a But 1t 1s long enough to gather ust:of the pavements and the . Ey p 1 the mud of the aris modistes, when taxed upo subjeet of setting the fashions by die ing long skirts in their win ] themselves by saying. that the are meant only for carri. They add that all their customeors d gatrons are “carriage people” and erefore it is in good’ taste for them to arriage dresses in the windows. asked the questioner to whom t i3 explained, “what do you advise for the rest of the world?” ise the short skirt,” sald the mo- ., “for the street. No ever consent to ~ street with her dress.’” v of the new dre however, do . They 'are toueh all the way the pity, a very nice urrounds the foot. ¢ str it did f rs 1 trimming v one dress nce of the sed hich was_certainly son, although it was very lovely. It was worn on one of the fros material vy days of September. Its s a very light broadcloth, ht enovgh to be called ladies’ color was culrassier blue. "It in polonalse shape with the front siit almost to the walist. Around the berder there was a broad band of steel - gray silk which' combined very prettily “with the blue. The rest of the bolorialse was trimmed in the same way, with bands of the steel gray silk reach- :x.% almost up to the waist. ¢ his polonalse was worn over a skirt HassIon. RAY and heather tints are always more or less popular: for autumn costumes, but they are to be more popular than ever this fall. of the finest coatings are shown in these colors only, though subdued greens are very pretty and will be considered styl- h. There is an effective broche . cloth for with colors, the red and black being per- ps. the most attractive. There is a new, ery soft cloth in indistinct checks, of aull blue or green with blaek that s very preity when trimmed with heavy bold braided patterns. weaves for both coats and suits will be much worn. The leather jerkins of olden days are being recalled by entire léather jackets, sometimes rather pretty colorings, which are ‘being lberally introduced. enna, where, by the by, some admirable fashions emanate, comeés a gown of crepe de chine of a vivid green, with lace trim- mings; the bodice broidered in whité and gold, opens over cream _chiffon;the basque is’ slashed the belt, and a cerise velvet collar gives just @ touch of color. trimming for autumn ‘tailor-made gowns is wash leather, worked in multi-colore silks in floral designs. Fans ‘are smaller b Among the newest ut never were more in half her time fussing and fretting over her complexion and bemqaning the fate that gave to ber stiff, straight hair which positively refuses to stay in curl these damp, foggy nights, while her brother has naturally curly hair that he is hav- ing perfect spasms over, trying to get the kink out of. One can be beautiful without Wn.sflnF one's life in the effort. Half an hour each morning is quite sufficient time in which to take the sponge bath, cleanse the teeth, dress the hair and manicure the naifls. At night in fifteen minutes the hair can be brushed and plaited, the face and hands well washed and massaged with a little cold cream, and the teeth again cleaned. Of course if the halr is to be shampooed or some particular portion of the body to be massaged, then a little more time is necessary. This much time spent upon the daily tollet is worth while and wiil repay ‘one, but’ in the effort to acquire beauty do not forget that the most im- portant thing of -all is' a bright, active mind. I have. in my mind the picture of a woman I once knew. I-can see her now as she stepped briskly la,lonsgI upon her little journey in the world. e belonged to what is-known as the smart set, and yet she had a keen and active sympathy n all matters touching the lives of those who -toiled and spun. . Whether her foot- steps.tended to the haunts of those who made pleasure their watchword, or to the byways of life, where privation, suffering and need raised their feeble heads, to them all she gave generously of her store. To the one she gave the choughts of an intelligent mind, to the others a kindly word, a nod of encouragement or modulated voice, a mind well informed solved is usually. efficacious in removing tan. upon all the topfes of the day, and live a correct and hygienic life, and, although the classic features of the Grecian statues may not be yours, the mantle of beauty will _surely descend and adorn your shoulders. And yours will be a beauty more substantial and less evanescent than that which mere beauty of feature alone can give. In case some of my readers have been disappointed that I have not given diréc- tions for the treatment of some particular facial blemish, or recipe for some cream or lotion, I am going to give a formula ' CERFUMED BATH BAGS. One pound of-fine oatmeal. One half-quart of new, clean bran. Two-fifths of a pound of powdered orris root. Two-fifths of a pound of almond meal. One-fourth of a pound of white Castilla soap, dry and powdered. One ounce of primrose sachet powder. Put this in small cheesecloth bags, dip in tepid water and use as a sponge. To the woman who .oves fragrant, pleasant toflet luxuries this recipe will ve a treasure. — e 3 ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. ILLIE BROWN-—I have many imes in these columns expressed my opinfon about dyes‘.of the hair. Surely you must have seen and read it. In my reply last.Sunday. to Mrs. A. Raffeto I told of a way by which the evebrows may be. thickened and slightly darkened. I dare not suggest any- thing at all ‘to darken the eyelashes. It . of nothing whereby the eyes can be uag AMERICAN BEAUYY—Ten or fifteen minutes each night should be devoted to the massage. It is imvnossible to say just how much development will be galned, but if faithfully persevered in ~there should be quite a perceptible change in a couple of months. ELMINIA—In answer to your first ques- tion T must refer you to the foregoing re- ply to Millie Brown. If you will follow the directions given in Sunday’'s Call of September 18 you will surely be able to rid yourself = of the bothersome blackheads. After using “everything vou ever heard of’ upon your face, I do not wonder that your com- lexion is in such a state. Never un- er any circumstances use anxthlng upon the face the ingredients of which you da not know. : ROSEDALE, G.—Ask your physician about the sulphur. 1 do not prescribe medicines. A SUBSCRIBER—Washing your hair s0 frequentl;’ in salt water is’ doubtless the cause of its falling in such quanti- ties. Give your hair a thorough brush- ing each ‘night and as often as possible a sun bath. Then uge this tonic upon the scalp: Eau de Cologne, 8 ounces; tincture cantharides, 1 ounece; oil of Eng- lish lavender, % dram; oil of rosemary, ram. HATTIE, J.—Milk baths will often’ fat- ten the face. For the hollows and the wrinkie in the cheeek, try mnnflng with pure, rich cream. ~ Do not pinch or -roll the flesh, but merely rub until the cream is absorbed into the skin. I can tell you smaller. ~For the dry hair, mi ge il ty scalp each night with the flnaen, ghti‘ BIRE TULLE DRESS, EMBRO