The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 11, 1898, Page 27

THE SA FRANCISCO CALL, SUN BER 11, 1898 27 [— LR R B R R LR R R R R EEERERET * % % : * £ & First Glimps : * & of o : * £ Fall Skirts. ¥ H KX EW YORK, Sept. 9.—It is a rose dress—green. T\ great honor to be invited to Breen “ > | hue which Larchmont on ladies’ da Larchmont is the home of t great y: club, and h there r all the milllonaire he Larchmont was a long time before a ladies’ da The old million: and the half million tars wanted hmont all to themselves. It was so comfortable to sit out under the s and view the wates d deli to lounge in the b in yack the ats without a thought of dressing for nr% E The sturd s this ne from the rocking chair flee king chair fleet at Larchmc is fa- ous the world over. It is composed of en who go to a yacht club, yet go to not upon toba 1 ; and not on et would be guilty of own- There they sit all summer > trees roc s they toss on chmont has a younger mem- and the young men really want- ' day. They had young wiv never lived e who N club. shad th to s world. hou wore d be the are York surpr! out of from & home street 1t night ss and get r of white duck life! 8 these the walk w She wore a out of d er color, blue w neat blac satin fr eled with face hab t rk lined would ¢ one an old | apro e broidery down the skirt. reen thing of fectly, with old rose. embroidery. ves the shades of he xtremel are cco there ma ) es. impc ors with the new one nd em brown, e naty mewhat put aside for these new EXEXRXEEXRK N g e &£ £ a8 woul LR R B 2 R R R R ] The green was an old ot too bright, but of that soft, rich harmonize so perfectly This dress was embroid- ered in black. Great stripes of the em- ctended down the walist and At first sight it looked like passementerie, but as you touched the figure you saw that it was black silk Around the foot of the skirt there was a very deep lace ruffle, and there was a great deal of lace upon and over the shoulders. golr all in the shades that ndards. hat was trimmed In old rose and and the wearer certainly attracted 1t deal of attention on account of dress, although she was pretty woman. to dress a great deal are not the For example, they will wear on brown, which is something like a and_old Thistle’ purple will be seen also, rose and old a shade of red which is al- uve wh own, the al blue yssible to on that impossible will plain green, be_ popular. the nd the pink have is extremely trying, this verging from standard colors to the new int of the difficulty of matching. Itis duplicate the old col- r even to combine ount the new fall to many women. ones on ¢+ will hold to the comfortable chem- as lo fact that ver: by the addition or s th American ed 1t o £ the hook and eye trimmed e ming u id. then t ago w omfortable. ight ck i with t is a camk and t also of line d . tied n free. summer dressme Nicholl. ng as pe soun dres: rem that dre: is winte it. The little clo: nodiste: ANy gr to hips, la S All made ce pon th he 111 ostume black cloth. bit rounded behind, opening > in front and loose at the to fit in the back by to fit the body pe; 2 in so adjusted 1t fa cloth black in he in a vard rproof and made 1 and t in the They are told st now talk of yachting of the new cup chal- went to fittin, t into them. long seam cut skirt which is fastened with the t the traveling skirt, which plain, fMed comes 1, can be as well or pique, ng more th; ume by Creed, down the le; vet. ric chemisette with linen 1 which is very high ¢ woolen stuff. nd at the bottom and tignt i sue front is quite flat r at the made without fulln ble, and waists are ng cut with very low necks in order of a Larchmont fashionable Daytimes she and in the a tte wore it without a chemisette This may be some- ymfort, but it is a B ble things are done tion of a neck »s are to be very but as yet they do Paris models, » to the figure, but have not_yet fol- at extent. n to the clinging skirt is in its which 1s certainly g skirts over the t to be The only This 1s man- in the fall skirts are but even the band of braid. ometimes to every variety of , from embroidery to in a few days were worn a f 1t as the fall In order to HELEN WARD. . Sunday Call from Paris. n of the year it is hard dress at the sporting habit repro- as can »duced from a yle of habit has ome time. But t is novel. Rue de la Palx, Over the skirt down des. tront by a be 1 side The lapels are Beneath the A boatin her wide in abit. The crown ck ribbon, fastened knot. r Ing in an automo- 1 from a model szen at seherbes. The with a narrow ind forming nicks down he skirt i flerent depths, the two lower covered with uppermost much aist. All three and leave the edged with five CYCLING COSTUME IN ALPACA: By Nicoll DRESS OF THE | rows of stitching, giving the effect of a wide, braiding. The corsage Is a close fitting jacket, with a rather long basque. It fastens down the left side with three brown horn buttons, and there are three buttons to match down the right side. The front of the jacket is or- namented with five rows of stitching like that on the skirt, which is repeated down the seams In the back and round the edge of the basque. The lapels are square, stitched with two rows round the edge and fixed to the garment with horn but- tons like those on the front. WaLK. steps and quick, short steps should be equally avoided, remarks a very ungraceful, and that is the greal fault of English girls. They walk toc T O BE thoroughly graceful long French woman. A stiff walk is also stifily, and take too long strides. (-] o -] o o (] [+] o HE nose, which is 80 necessary to the tout ensemble of the face, is more often a subject of ridicule than the object, as it should be, of great care and gentleness. And yet, how many a woman’s other- wise happy existence is made utterly mis- erable by a nose that will persist in get- ting red and swelling to twice its normal size, just when she wants to look her best and make a good impression.- A beautiful nose Is the greatest possible ornament to a woman's face, and so rare that it at once excites the admiration. Lavater, the physlognomist, declared that there were thousands of beautiful eyes to one beautiful nose. Sir Joshua Reynolds says that “the line that forms the arch of the nose is beautiful when it g straight.” It is sald that only about three in every hundred noses are to be found directly in the middle of the face. The bridge of the nose, which should follow a straight line drawn between the eyes, usually di- gresses if only in a slight degree from this line. In these days of scientific advancement the nose can be molded to almost any shape desired. Where the bridge of the nose has been broken or destroyed by dis- ease a surgical operation may. be per- formed, a new bridge inserted and the new nose look quite as well as the old one ever did. Crooked noses can be straight- ened even after maturity, and in early childhood, owing to the soft nature of the LI A e /) NEW NORFOLK SUITING Spanish women have very walk, naturally, as also have Italian country girls, and all accustomed to car- ry weights on their heads. To exercise walking, a weight on the head is a very good lesson. You must not be content, howev to walk straight before you without letting the weight fall from your head. You must turn back- ward and forward, and from side to side, as Italian country girls do when they carry their water jars from the well, and can turn in all directions without a drop of water being spilled from the jar on their head. More marriages are made up at the well in Italy than at any other public place. Young rustic fellows stand by the well to watch the girls fill thelr Jars and carry them away on their heads with a grace given only to them; and the most graceful among them has the most ;u]mdirers from whom to choose her hus- band. The French are also very graceful walk- ers. Study your walk, girls. Take dancing lessons to begin with, and then repeat rour lessons betore your long toilet s'ass. A pretty walk is a beauty in it- self, and every one who will can acquire a BY MME. HYGEIA. cartilages that form the nostrils, the shape of the lower part of the nose may be greatly improved by gentle, continued pressure. Stroking the nose downward Will often stralghten out the saucy curve of a “tip-tilted” nose. The nose is an extremely sensitive feat- ure, and resents roughness by becoming red and swollen and assuming curves that detract from its symmetry. However, any nose, be it ever so perfectly modeled, is a sore trial to a woman, when, without any apparent provocation, it becomes red and blotchy or develops an unsightly crop of blackheads. And when the nose shines equal to an inextinguishable searchlight woman feels that she would like to go, llkedthc ostrich, and bury her head in the sand. A red ‘nose is usually an outward sign of some stomach derangement, althougn it may result from a variety of causes, such as a weakened circulation, garments which are too tight or from {rritation groduced bx too rough usnfe of the hand- erchief. And very often it is caused by a tendencg’ to erysipelas. Outward applications will be of Ifttle use until the tpresumnble cause has been removed. If it is indigestion, remedy this by rigid abstemiousness from all greasy foods. Look not upon the pastries when they are tempting, and close your nostrils to the appetizing odor of cakes and oodies as they issue from the oven. Acid- ty of the stomach, which is a cause of red noses, can sometimes be entirely overcome by drinking several times a day a glass of pure water, as hot as can be en, ‘When the trouble arises from poor vir- culation the following treatment is often successful. It is what the French call an aromatic bath—with massage after: Rosemary tops, 1000 grammes. Bolling water, 10 quarts. S pretty | this beauty. | 000000000000CC000000000000000000000000000C000000000000 NEW COLORS AND NEW GOWNS IN CUIRASSIER BLUE. Do it. then, at once—now— ng another day. without 1o HE latest fashionable belt-is of leather, and s woven in a many- stranded flat brald. The leather, of the usual width for a belt, is cut in even strands about an elghth of an inch wide, and these strands are woven in a basket weave its full length; that is, close to the buckle and eyelets. This belt clings closer to the waist than any other, and is pliable, which no other leather belt can be. It is also less heat- ing and stretches lengthwise, making the waist appear smaller instead of larg- er and more bulky, as most leather belts do. These belts are furnished with the popular harness buckle, and are made in all colors, but preferably of tan or black, 00000000000000C000000WOCO00000000000000000000000000000 0 # lines of Beauty op the Face. 0000000 Bicarbonate of soda, 250 grammes, Pour the bolling water on the leaves; let stand half an hour; strain; add the soda, and pour all into the warm water prepared for the bath. While the inward cause is being removed, outward applica- tions may be made. About the best of these is witch hazel. Dabble this on the inflamed nose several times a day. A shiny nose is an infallible s} of an overindulgence in those things which one should not eat. Mineral waters are a most excellent corrective for a skin which is too liberally endowed with natural oils. Eat plenty of green crisp salad, and in- vest your next month’'s pin money In a box of big, ripe, rosy-cheeked apples. A noted Paris speclalist sq&s that a ‘woman who eats three or fourvapples a day cannot be ugly. The aPple acts on the liver, gives a beautiful complexion and is fattening. Sometimes a shiny nose may be entirely cured by bathing the whole face dally in a quart of warm wa- ter in which a very small lump of com- mon washing soda has been dissolved. Another excellent remedy which will often prove a rapld transit line to happi- ness for the woman whose nose persists in outshining every electric light in the neighborhood is the following: Lavender Lotion. Alcohol, four ounces. Ammonia, one ounce. Oil of lavender, one dram. Mix, by shaking in a six-ounce bottle, Add one scant teaspoonful of this to two quarts of warm water when the face is washed. Used in such proportions it is_excellent, but if more of the lotion is added it will, in time, make the skin too dry and harsh. This is one of "the things that will have a very good effect if used in small quantity,but will have a dectd- FOR AUTUMN EAEXEAXXXX XXX R XXX FAE XXX XRR - LR XXX XRR R & 2 Curious Little & & Muf « Septe IR E AR EE R ERE R E R SRR ERERY edly bad effect if used too lavishly. Do not do as did the man whose phy- sician prescribed arsenic to be taken In | small doses. Thinking that if the medi- | cine were beneficial taken in such small doses it must be doubly so taken in twice the quantity, he immediately dou- bled the dose. A couple of days later his | friends, with much pomp and ceremony, | ‘buried him. | 80, remember, one scant tablespoonful | (not a drop more) to two quarts of water. After washing the face with this, apply a little rosewater and the powder well. Answers to ColTesponder)ts. INFORMATION—I can recommend no way of bringing about the end you de- sire, save a general reducing of flesh. All | sorts of injuries can come about by try- | ing the remedies that are saild to make the bust smaller, TROUBLED ONE—Massage the collar | bones every night with cocoanut oil, and | eat good fattening foods. The high col- | iar is responsible for most of the yellow, | wrinkled necks that all girls complain s0_bitterly of. The distressing condition | of vour skin must be caused by some | physical disorder, and the wise plan is | to find the seat of the trouble and do | away with htat. All the lotions and out- | ward applications in the world will do | KRR K KRR K you no good as long as the cause re- | mains. Avold pastries, sweets and pickles, and pin your faith to fruits, par- ticularly apples or oranges and Isabella grapes. Then while you are getting the blood in good condition, sponge the pim- ples vith diluted listerine or tincture of myrrh. When the pimples disappear, THE CURIOUS LITTLE attack the blackheads by scrubbing the face thoroughly each night with a cam- el's halr face scrubbing brush, warm wa- ter and white castile soap. Also, take two hot baths a week, scrubbing the en- tire body with a fiesh brush and soap. Do not stay in the hot water long enough for it to debilitate you, and do not neg- lect the daily tepid sponge bath. If you follow this treatment rigorou: 1 am quite certain the pimples will disappear for all time. You were not quite definite enough about your hair.. Let me knoay if it is oily or dry. What would be bene- ficial in the one case would be detrimen- tal in the other. Also, is it light or dark? HATTIE J.—Here s the formula for or- ange flower skin food: Spermaceti, 3% ounce; white wax, % ounce; sweet al- mond ofl, 1 ounce; lanoline, 1 ounce; co- coanut ofl, 1 ounce; simple tincture ben- zoin, 10 drops; orange flower water, 1 ounce. There is mo reason why you should not acquire the development you desire even under the circumstances you mention. Massage with the cocoanut oil each ing gently around and up. Dis ee to it that the clothing loose, with the arms and eat plenty of fattening foods. Patience and time are necessary, for it will be at least two months before you will notice any change. JUPITER—Try bathing the dark circles under and over the eyes with witch hazel but take care not to get it in the eyes Among simple home-made tonics for the hair there is nothing better than a gen- tle massage of the scalp with the fingers dipped in warm, pure olive oil. Brush well each night and wash once in two or three weeks with this wash, which will make the hair glossy and remove from the scalp the unsightly little flak. Yolk of one egg, one pint of distilled water and one ounce rosemary spirit. Beat up and use warm, rubbing well into the skin of the head. Rinse carefully in several waters or the hair will be left sticky and horrid instead of silky and smooth. Do not use soda on the hair and the soap you mention is very much over estimated. Compound talcum powder is ellent for the skin. If it adheres to your face, I can suggest nothing better. E. E. E. E.—I do not prescribe medicine or tonics. My mission is to enlighten womenkind as to the hygiene of proper living and in the art of making simple remedies at home wherewith they may if possible, improve upon Nature's handi: work. If your physician's medicine does not agree with you, tell him so andhe will Erobubly change it. If you feel that he ocs not understand your case, 1 shcu{d As advise you to call in some one else. 453 CLOTH RIDING HABIT: By Creed. of mber. . 22 FRELERF X XXX RXFERRR ¥ soon as the cause of debility is overcoms and the system buiit up, the hair will probably cease falling. An excellent tomc for promoting the growth of the hair is made 2fter the following formuia: « Eau de cologne, 8:ounces; tincture of cantharides, 1 ounce; ofl of lavender, % dram; ofl of rosemary, % dram. ix thoroughly and apply to the roots of the hair every day or two. Moth patches are very hard to do away with, as they are usually the sign of deep-seated disease of the liver. The standing remedy for this is taraxacum, the extract of dandelion root, and the usual dose is a large pill four nights in a week, sometimes for months. Then /you might buy some of the limes that are now in market, cut one in two pleces and rub the piece on the dark Spo Let it dry in, and then apply cold cream, letting it remain on the face over night. Ask your physician’s advice as to the patent medicine you have been using. FREDERICA—Am pleased that_you found the skin food so delightful. Many of my correspondents have written me the same nice things about it. I would advise you not to attempt to remove the large moles. The acid is all right for the small moles, but let the large ones alone, as the scars resulting will be more un- 5l$htlv than the moles. URDENE—Follow directions given to Jupiter. In rubbing the oil on the scalp see that it does not get on to the hair it- self, else it will give it an oily look that is anything but lovely. Lemon juices and | glycerine are all right for the neck and hands, but for the face I should prefer | mixing the lemon juice with equal parts of rose water and rectifled spirit. Mix these together; next day decant the clear portion and strain it through muslin. B IR E R R BN =Y MUFF OF SEPTEMBER. Bathe the face Yfl%lht and morning with the lotion, wiping the skin afterward with a soft tow If this irritates or roughens the skin b in a good cold cream after using it at night. LUCY A, T.—In order to gain flesh there must be absolute freedom from care and anxiety. Sleep at least ten hours out of the twenty-four. Eat liberally of food containing starch and sugar, such as po- tatoes, fresh sweet butter, milk, cream, fruits cooked and served with cream, corn, sweet potatoes, beans, peas, fish and oysters and desserts without pastry. Stay | out of doors much as possible and take | moderate exercise. Sleep in a well-venti- lated room; but above everything eise do not worry and do not permit your nerves to get the better of you. Rosy cheeks come with health, good circulation, firm muscles and a perfect digestion. ALBERTINA—A very good rouge may be made by taking four ounces of finely bolted talc and two drams of carmine mixing them together with a little warm and dlluted solution of gum traga- canth. Form into a smooth tablet and al- low it to dry. For the dry lips use a good camphor ice, such as may be made from this formula: Gum camphor, % ounce; spermaceti, % ounce; white wax, } ounce; sweet almond oil, 4 ounces. Melt in a hot water bath. Take out of bath and stir in, while cooling, a few drops of attar of rose. Tell your Sister to use the pure cu- cumber juice for whitening the skin, al- though she can safely combine it with the glycerine and salicylic acid if she prefers it that way. LEONA B.—Read foregoing replies to Hattie J. and Lucy A. T. and you will find vour first two questions answered. To re- move the crows feet massage each night with the orange flower skin food, formula for which will also be found in reply to Hattle J. A clear conscience and happy thoughts are the only non-injurious eye brighteners I know of. No, steaming™ the face will not cause wrinkles, unless indulged in too frequently. Once a month a good face steaming is excellent for the skin. Horseback riding, judicious- ly indulged in, cannot be too highly rec- ommended, as it brings into play all the muscles and quickens the circulation. Good health and a perfect digestion are necessary for the mossessi a clear complexion and rosy chee! tepid sponge bath plenty ercise_and good wholesome food. A. J. B.—Massage the face with the orange flower skin food, formula for which is given in reply to Hattie J. Rub the cheeks up and away from the mnose, using the rotary movement. The skin food will not promote the growth of hair on the face.