The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 28, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 28, 1898. NEW EST ODDITIES IN PRETTY HATS FOR AUTUMN. I AR AT ABEE LR R LB o AT T R L R EW YORK, Aug. 26.—In the au- | tumn the young woman's fancy turns pers tly toward au- | tumn garments. However beau- tiful her summer clothes may have seemed to her three months ago, they are now old and dowdy. The stiffening has come out of the chifto mull is lifeless; feathers have = grown aight, and the blush is off the June | rose. | The first change which a woman makes in her wardrobe in the fall is in lrir\bl."[ in the line of hats. The white sallor is | taken off and put away, and the darker hat with its heavier trimming is put on. It s claimed t the of the season are made or the windows of the milliner s this, friend, s sea- and r The new fal ish. No astonishi which the ost popu- 1 should e cocked nose; of the a1 wonder from the friend th to the pur- rhinestone the the hat the hat on The back perpen- pinned ike crown. The ley, but one but- s left eye. t my friend, the gl ng through regulation s cocked and bands of velvet placed one over the other 0 that a band made up of many folds tands high - around the crown. Such trimming as this needs only a bunch of feathers at the back, or if it be very ful, the hat requires no other trimming at all. Merely a finish made of a hand- ful of autumn leaves with their trailing stems will be sufficlent. The velvet crown will be very much | seen this winter, and this, too, is a useful thing, whether the woman makes her hats or bu them of the milliner. A width of v et can be made into a very acceptable crown, and as for the brim— | straw brim can be worn until Christ- impossible old flat felt hat of many seasons ago can take a new lease of life this winter if its brim is cut| dawn a little, and its crown is treated | to a big cover of velvet. Make a big black velvet crown and trim the brim with small tips setting out from the crown beyond the brim. This makes a very ce finish, and the hat needs no other trimming. Imported hats are effective and varied ear. I saw one which was such a medley of bird of Paradise plumes and lace and ribbon and silk that I should | hesitate about deseribing it. No straw | s visible, and the hat was covered | h brown'autumn flowers, with their | reen leaves running along the brim. | Lace is very much used upon the hats, and very nice it looks as it falls over the autumn flowers so as to_veil them; or as it forms a becoming background for delicate foliage. The prices run as high as $5 in the milliners’ windows, but the obliging milli- ner will suit her hat to the purse of her customer. HELEN WARD. COLLECTIONS HE unseen, but useful, garter has been setzed upon as the pretext for collection, says the Chicago Chroni- cle. Chicago girls are not now con- | tent with two for week days and an| extra pair for Sunday, but gather garters | in place of souvenir spoons or pictures. | Garters all gemmed with precious stones | and quaint old-fashloned things that held In place the silk hoslery of grandmamma | are laid side by side with the “patriotic garter” made of red, white and blue rib- bon and held together by an army but- ton of bras A little South Side woman was one of s shape s so ven to plain ch males them with green Th mean carried roun raised a ‘man’s r a fan feather was ‘e to proudly wave over we: iy will have ty Is d the aks 50 often s in home , when the geason’s hats are so d upon them of great simplicity, nd plumes and used with lav are might be said d in great pro- 1e. For exam- as p R acceptable trimming for the o side of a hat. If the crown aight it can be set enti y the crown. All turban of last winter with crown can be bullt up with - NEW valking hats | ¢ e back | WAY OF TREATING THE ENGLISH WALKING e first to turn to this fad and she has one of the handsomest collections In the Her treasures are not shown to but her more intimate comer, s have had glimpses of her souvenir rters. One who had not yet learned at spoon collecting was too old an| musement to interest the end of the cen- ry young woman was talking to her | he other evening and asked if she had mad collection of spoons, 4 1 a souvenir spoon | , “but that is old now, y attention to som ¢ a very unique col- | W turned | thing better. I hi | lection of garter: | | *“Garters! . Do you mean to say that| u have a_coilection of them? | s 3 know it is the fad now , and I think that I have the! most ‘compiete collection of any woman. Just wait a moment and I'll'bring them When she returned she carried a large box and several smaller ones. “You know we all have to have some | fad,” she said with a smile. ‘Some gather | cravats, but I ltke to gather garters | best T little woman her | garters an their | unwrapped d_explained irty-four pairs and | 3 She has them | al from™cotton to | ps are of hrass, silver ind some aré studded with pree- | ‘A-most ovely pair of gar- de of pink silk ribbon, caught ther with a silver clasp made {n a true knot, set with moonstones, was sent to me from New York,” “and this silver fishhook clasp recious ities. odd She has th luc] I “for , ar or gold, iou low garters is. a’ Boston oldest pair in her collection were to her by a Viennese lady of aris- ic birth, in whose family they had for more than 100 year: The band f Ct r' many times, ps show’ the w ing against silk and acquired a bright- gold. The clasps are of hape and bear the coat of arms « noble Austrian family. A palr of rters made of tricolored webbing and sped by an ingenious device soldered a United States army button is one of CBIC CYCLING ’ COSTUMES WOMANLY yet fetching toflet for cycling is of blue cheviot, the skirt plain, cut in five close gore the front gore shaped to extend slightly broader at the hips. It is invisibly closed at the left beneath the | tripte stitched strapped seam. The jacke extends only to the waist at.the back, but drops in ittle jacket points in front, | folding away in white-faced revers to- | ward the shoulder. The vest is of white | crossed Swiss or silk and has a scarf cra- { vat of Sv A close straw hat with | brim slightly " drooping in front has bright | Tartan plaid ribbon twisted around it and | brought up into a smart bow at the back. | | "An imported cycling _costume is of | Scotch plaid wool, with very full bloom- ¢ alling just below the knee. A full- basqued blouse close single-breasted in front, with a small open revers collar at the Teck, aisplaying Just & glimpse o a| plain white front, close standing_ collar and scarlet string tle. A stitched cloth e sar-~ maferial as the suit d it over the briny deep. is of ni glish bicycling costume | An ©00000C0 0 HAT. mode tweed suiting. The five-gored skirt has the front panel outlined with large shell buttons. The Norfolk Jjacket is double-breasted, closely fitting ‘and has small sleeves. The coliar is sli=huy low, showing the top of a buff plque Ascot tie. The skirt {s ankle depth and the hat a rough straw brown sailor. Quite a novel suit is of blue and gray mixed suiting, The skirt is divided, but hangs in such folds as to conceal this foct when the wearer stands. The cun- ning little bolero-jacket displays a double- breasted vest of red and white dotted pique and natty shirt front of lmmacu- ate purity. A large ribbon knot almost conceals the standing collar. White duck is much in favor out of town. One with three-quarter length skirt has a close fitting jacket; buttons at the breast line, with four large pearl but- tons connected by cord loops. The collar has plain broad revers, outlined by an inch band of dark ribbon, and shows the small chemisette of linen. Poplin 1s used In making a very hand- some wheeling toflet. The skirt is ankle length, made double and will answer for drop or diamond frame. The jacket cuts away in front over a vest of shirred mousseline de sole, reaching to the collar to simulate a sweater. Large poplin- covered buttons trim both skirt and Jacket. Brown velours, made into a divided skirt, silk-stitched at ‘all edges. The blouse has here and there, fashion is forgotten on very hot days, and the lawn, gingham or skirts prevail, although there is no eriti- FLESB. Dr. John Beardsley, twenty-five years, says that exercise has Exercise aldbne will increase the appe- A diet of exclusively lean meat, will not increase the weight, but after a pique shirt waist is most often met with cism for those which are quite short. H OW can one'naturally inclined to beeh making some sclentific exper- not so much to do with the matter as has tite and cause longer hours of sleeping baked bread, tea, coffee and only vege- month will diminish it. who has | W OW W W WW WP PN PP P P P P W W menu, but may add one vegetable grown above the ground. Let him exercise gent- Iy but not too vigorously, and exercise the mind as well as the body, for an excess of fat is a certain indication of not over exercise of the brain. Sleep is a great fat producer and must not be over-indulged in, six to elght hours being the maximum. Hot baths tend to make the body flabby and do not per- manently reduce fat. Cold baths, on the contrary, do reduce fat. The fat is car- bonaceous and a cold bath, by lowering the temperature of the body, uses suffi- clent carbon from the fat to raise the temperature of the body to normal. ‘Warm clothing has the same effect as hot baths and should be avoided by one reducing his fat, as well in the form of bed covering as in daily wear. Linen being the best conductor of heat is cool- est and so best to be worn. Of exercise horseback riding, rowin, and fencing are the best, as they cal into use every muscle of the body. Swimming in cold water is doubly ef- fective, as it uses the carbon both in exercise and to keep up the temperature of the body. - ee—————— This is how the Delta Lighthouse of Greenville, Miss., reported a local school commencement: “Public School No. 28, exercises passed off quietly. though brilliant. Words are inadequate to express the intrinsic value a square section cut out at the neck, and a duck, crash or wool skirt. Longer To REDUCE grow stout reduce flesh? iments extending over his practice of dfet, and that both must be taken properly. and so increase rather thgn reduce flesh. tables that are grown above the ground Let the patient rise very early, take a of the exercise; but to the ladies con- TALL PLUMES WORN BY THE GIRL WHO RUSHES THE a | cold bath and a breakfast of hot coffee | cerned, let the citizens congratulate you tucked batiste; is run throu , and tled at t filled in with cream sailor knot of the ba eyelets cut in the blous: fio left side. A Tam O’Shanter of the cloth as le quills for trimming. In spite without cream or milk ar sugar and toast | witheus butter. | " For Tuncheon, lea: beet or mutton, SEASON. upon your success. We witnessed the | turn-out of three graduates from your | school, all of which is something phenom- | crackers or dry toast with tea or coffee. | enal in the annals of the records of the of all the handsome suits seen | Dinner he must choose from the same | Greenville public schools. 02000000000 QC0000C00000VOC0000000000C0000C0LC00000000000000 Q00000000 0000000000000 002060CC0C0C000000000000C0C00C0CO00000000000000 BY MME. HYGEIA. BEST WAYS TO REMOVE TAN AND FRECKLES. 000000000 This aepartment iz for the benefit if all those who are interested in the science of cosmetics and the hy- giene of proper living. If any one desires information on either of these subjects their questions will be cheer- fully answered in these columns. Write as often as you like, ask as many questions as you pleasc and sign any name that you choose. Address all communications to M.me. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francsico. OW is the time when the sum- mer girl flutters back to town from her outing at the seashore or in the mountains and settles herself down to doctor her com- plexion and to coax back by fair means or foul, the fair hues and tints | ture fluffs up ard looks fine of texture | 1| and perfectly smooth, at that moment | | put it into jars that have been previously | that bewilder and delight men’s souls. wonder how many of these girls have brought back the beautiful coats of tan and numerous freckles that I predicted at the beginning of the summer. How many have carried out their determina- tion to return to town as “brown as a berry,” and now wish they hadn’t? Tanned skins and sun-browned noses may be treasurable possessions away from the haunts of civilization, but back among the hosts of the city, and pre- paratory to a winter’s campaign of crushing hearts, they are a positive af- on. Many a girl’s complexion has been irre- cably ruined by just one summer’s vor to get micely browned. To remove tan and sunburn . there is nothing better than rich, sweet cream, or half a cupful of sweet milk in which a pinch of borax has been dissolved. The following lotion applied to the face will prevent its tanning to any great ex- tent, that is if proper care is taken of one’s skin: Distilled witchhazel, 3 ounces. Prepared cucumber juice, 3 ounces. Rosewater, 1% ounces. Essence white rose, 1}4 ounces. Simple tincture of benzoin, % ounce. Rub this well into the skin with the tips of the fingers until it i{s absorbed and then apply a pure powder. To annihilate freckles use this wash: 0O00O0O0OOOOOOOOOQOQOO FRECKLE LOTION. Three grains borax. Five drams rosewater. Five drams orange flower water. 0000000 0000000000COOO0O0OO0OO ‘With care and proper protection of the face when going out, particularly from the winds that are now rampant, the red noses, flaky skins and sun-kissed cheeks can gradually be coaxed back to their normal tints. I am going .to glve you this week a recipe which you will find particularly nice to use at this time of year, when the winds seem to gather up whole buck- etfuls of dust to fling into one’s face and grind into one’s skin. This cream has splendid cleansing qualities and will re- move the soot and dust in a hurry. Here are the proportions: 00000000C000Q®O0D0O0O0 LETTUCE CREAM. Spermaceti, 1% ounces. Y Ol of sweet almonds, 1% ounces. Refined white wax, 3§ ounce. Rosewater, % ounce. Lettuce, one cup. Essence of violet, two teaspoon- fuls. - ©0.000000000000000 Grate or shave the white wax and the spermacet! _into a clean, -unblemished granite dish; then add the almond oil and set_over a small, gentle flame. Just as it begins to boil, put in the lettuce, which must be only theé tender inside leaves of head lettuce and cut very fine. Let this mixture simmer for ten minutes, when 00000000000 00000000000 the lettuce should be boiled down to soft shreds, . Remove from the fire and straln and again set on the range. When very | essence of violets, drop by drop, but get- ting all in before the hot oils cool. | with a silver spoon. The moment the mix- ‘warmed. again and heat it a second time. While the lettuce is cooking it must be stirred constantly, and while heating the cream must not be taken into a cooler atmos- phere. ‘And now, before taking up the corres- pondence for this week, I want to.say | that my corres; with answers through the ask for personal replies. mulating o fast that it sible to answer them by mail. y are accu- It took one of letters. And this week promises a repe- tition of the same task. that some of you have had to walit so long for answers to your letters, but the corres- through this department each week you will certainly find your auestions swered in tim not a single letter will be lost. — ee——— ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. EATRICE B. B.—Loose clothing, exercise with the arms, plenty of tepid baths and a diet of good, fat- tening foods, such as rice, butter, potatoes, eggs, cereals, milk and game are necessary to acquire development of the bust. First of all, then, discard all pads and be sure that the undergarments do not confine at all. Then massage gently with cocoanut ofl, rubbing around and around with the palm of the hand untii the ofl Is absorbed. Do this every night. It will be at least elght weeks before any | development will be noticeable, but\t will surely come if/perststed in. To reduce the size of stomach, take'. these exercises I night and morning: Lie flat on |the back upon the floor and raise one knee and then the other ten times in succession; then fold the arms and raise the body to a sitting posture t? times. Massage s also excellent for tE purpose MRS. L. A. T.—The condition of your nose indicates a disordered condition of your digestive organs. Go to your dru%. ist and have this harmless and excel- ent prescription filled: Extract of dande- lion, one dram; powdered rhubarb, q. s. Divide into three and one-half grain pills and take one every night or night and morning, if necessary. When the pim- ple comes to a white head, prick it with a fine needle, press the contents gently out, and immediately afterward apply: listerine diluted in three times as much bolled water. Mix a small ‘mece of borax with two tabiespoonfuls of good cologne. Ap- ply the diluted listerine for sevi nights and then the borax and coloTe for sev- eral nights. Let me know if this does not help you. For answer to your second question read answer to Beatrice B. B. . BIRDIE Y. Z—Pour the oll into the palm of the hand and rub with thedpa,lm around and around and up, never down. o Do not pinch and knead the flesh, as there is great er of bruising one-: lel‘i, ‘whic! ng:'ht result seriously. Let the rubbing gentle and continue it through a fine sieve into a porcelain dish. | until the .oil is absorbed. Put this dish in a pan of boillug water | hot remove and add the rosewater and | Stir | If by any chance the rosewater sepa- | rates from the ofls, put it on the range | ondent: ust b th | e h e b satisfled | ipon your face each night rubbin an- | late the cutaneous blood vessels are di e, for I promise you that |orderly in their action and relax and con- In other re- spects you are carrying out directions correctly. Rubbing the hollow places with the ofl is all that is necessary, you need not pull the flesh away from the body as you have been doing. Massag- ing any part of the fleshy part of the body with the oil should develop it, in time. The rum and bitter apple is an old-fashioned remedy, and may be_ efli- caclous. The rum is Invigorating and the bitter agplp probably acts as a tonfe. I do not happen to know of any one who has tried it. Now, for the fifth and sixth questions. Once a day is quite often enough to use soap on the face, and just | before retiring is the better time. = As you are afflicted with blackheads, I would advise a camelshair face scrubbing brush in place of the coarse wash rag. You should also use a good pure cold cream it well ques- into the skin. As for your sixt] terly Impos- | tion, after one has attained the desired development, if the general health is good whole day of constant Jetter-writing last | and one does not lose flesh, there will be week for me to make a dent In the mound | DO necessity to continue the treatment. It | there are any more question you desire | to ask, do so and I will cheerfully an- 1 also wish to say that I am very sorry | Swer them. E. J.—Blushing, or flushing of the face, | usually indicates a general perturbation pondence has increased to such an extent | 0f the health. It may arise from indiges- that letters must necesarily take their | tion, go(lr circulation and very often from place in line and await publication. But | tight lacing. It is also caused by nervous- if you will just be patient and look | ness and hysteria, because ‘the small vasomotor nerves which control and regu- tract spasmodically. Take lots of walks; take a good blood tonic; wear no tight bodices or bandages; eat lots of fruit, such as pears, oranges and figs. Avold hot drinks; eat slowly and put the feet in hot water every night. See to It that your sleeping-room is well ventilated. I Know | no way of [estlnfi tooth powder except to prepare it yourself. MENA L.—I have never known of the remedy you mention having the effect that you describe. I should be so glad to be rid of the trouble, for any length of time that I should not worry about its going any place else, at least not until it got there. Don't belleve everything the croakers tell you. MILLY 'G. M.—You can do your own housework - and still have presentable hands, if you will take care of them. Keep & lemon or tomato conveniently near with which to remove vegetable stains, and if you can afford it, use castile soa for dishwashing. Do not change the hands suddenly. from hot to cola water or from cold to hot, and be careful always to dry them thoroughly after taking them out of water. Keep a palr of old gloves with the tips of the fingers cut off to draw on when handling coal or ashes or doing rough work of any kind. Each night upon retiring rub this cream well into the hands: Cocoa butter, oll of sweet al- monds and refined white wax, equal parts. The electric needle is the only permanent cure for superfluous halr. KATHIE—To strengthen and make the eyelashes grow use a tonic made of equal parts of cocoanut oil and white vaseline. ALICE SH.—Cleaning velvet is entirel. out of my line. If it were mine, I shouls send it to a reliable cleaner. EMMA D.—Follow treatment su; to Mrs. L. A. T., only there n @ 1o grlcklng in your case.” I do not quite un- erstand whether it is blackheads or ahiteheads that you are troubled with. ‘Whichever they are do not squeeze them, press them gentl out, when they are ready to come. I they do not improve under_this treatment, write to me again. LOUISE—I can suggest no by which the eyellds can be made thicker and fuller. or do I know of any ap- Pllcauon that can be made to the e‘o t urse, 0 soften the voice. There are, of certain breathing exercises = that teach one how to bet use and control the as this irritates and inflames them, but | 27 NEW TOQUE voice. My only Buggestlon to you in this connection is_to modulate the Voice when speaking and, if you have any throat trouble, to consult ‘a specialist. on the hands are freckles, use lemon juice on them. , however, they are in the nature of moles, which I stron; the coloring matter is deposited in the deeper portion of the subcuticle, and there is no remed{ ‘for them as they are impossible to reach. MRS. C. T. WILLES—If you will watch these beauty talks you will very soon find one upon the subject of massage {n which I will answer minutely the you ask. I cannot very well space to it to-day. There nolhlnfi than the orange flower skin food, formula for.which has been given several times in these columns. If not write to me again. better WBY of restorlni bleached hair to its naturgl color than just to let it grow out. Thete are dyes that seem to do the work without any harmful results, but I cannot recommend them. The result might be perfectly satisfactory in nine cases and in _the tenth case the hair be utterly ruined. GUSSIE—Yes, the formula for skin food ven to ‘‘Belle” is the one that you wish. am quite certain that if you persist in glve the is positively PATRICIA KIRKLAND-—If the spots | fly suspect, | uestion that | better in the way of a skin food | Have you not seen it? | I know of no ALL OF VELVET. | using it the “crow’s feet” which are just | beginning to come will pick up their duds | and depart. Merely applying the food | néwever, will not bring about the desires result. It must be thoroughly rubbed into the :skin and be sure and rub across the wrinkles, that is, in the opposite direc- tion to_that which the wrinkles take. GLADYS WADE—Try the freckle lo- tion given in the benut{{ talk to-day. To make the eyebrows thick, get an ounce of alcohol and in.it dissolve five grains of quinine. Agply this every other night and on the nights in between times massage | very gently with the fingers which have been ‘Cq;{)ed in olive oil slightly warmed. PEACHES--I have heard that constant | applications_of castor oil will remove warts, but I do not postively know that this is so. A lunar caustic pencil will re- ° move them. Touch the center of the wart lightly with the pencil once a day. It will turn black and gradually disappear. Great care must be taken not to touch with the | caustic pencil the surrounding skin, else | a staln and scar may result. MME. HYGEIA. Ceylon is alarmed at the news that the world will end next year, and that the beginning will be the submergence of | Ceylon. The villagers on- the island are trying to atone for their sins by acts of charity and by flocking to the temples. FOR AUTUMN AFTERNOONS: -