The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 14, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, AUGUST 14, 15698. = NEW WAYS TO DRESS THE NECK IN © & EW YORK, Aug. 12—Of sum-| r\\‘; mer ever I sing—and of the ny little arrangements to be worn upon the neck. & To be sure it the middle f Algust and the dog days are begin- | ng ‘to wahe and the autumn nights are almost_in the air, yet the warm breezes it. from the land side, and it is neces- ry -to dress coolly in order to be com- | ble. he woman who allows her summer| kwear to become crumpled, or who ards it at thi ason of the year for h,.warm collars and stocks, makes a \stake, for she take in com- appearance one hat which ves he comfort neck low. the the s had them back; but on sant loosen- low enough to es of heat and promiscuous e e upper y it as far as in good and decidedly pop- it in one of baby neck, aby neck you. as you can your chin upon ms around that you becom! > woman gives § the ay of the curve d with Ive frills cklace should worn d or pointed | pinned at one side. These curls are al- most_universally becoming. Few women are courageous enough now to brush the hair back from the ears. No artist ever drew a fancy picture which showed the top of the ears. Only the lobe peeps out, as shown in the mod- els of' Raphael and Gainsborough, those two painters who knew a woman when they The curls can be few or many, more becoming to the wearer than the plain, bare ears. With the low neck the halr can be curled in a_bang, and pulled _down over the forehead a la Pri of Wales. This style is decidedly becoming to women who are a little past their youth. Low necks are most becoming when a woman's head is of curls and the woman who s coming when a woman’'s head is a mas of curls, and the woman who selects be- coming neck arrangements must look well also to the curls which are to_trim her face. HELEN WARD. SECOND BEST NEW B4T. HF you have just expended $5 or $6 for a new hat for the summer, no doubt vou feel that it is all that you can afford to have; yet with so many dif- ferent colored linings to your summer | dresses how can you post bly make the one hat do? A voung woman who is| and | quite clever in the matter of dres whose purse does not hold a superabund- nce of change for the carrying out of her ideas, has adopted a plan which is quite worthy of being copied. She had a broad, white leghorn hat which she wore last summer, and which, while being completely out of style, was too good to be put aside. She secured a package of diamond dye for 10 cents, dyed the hat a beautiful shade of quartz gray, and after it had dried thoroughly she cut off about two inches of the brim. Then she put three rows of crinoline | around it, arranging the crinoline around | it so that it stood high in the back, after which she covered the first row with a double fold of quartz gray chiffon, the second with a deep parme fold and the third she treated as the first. Under the brim in the k and over the end of the rows in the front, she massed bunches of white and parme violets. The crino- line made a foundation for theshiffon so t w ere to get wet it would uty. 4 \ be remodeled in this wa; and by ct ging the trimming occasional- ly you can have several new hats during the summer, MILITERY TRIMMINGS. mmings for women's and a few got hold . They are cpaulets, ad- and bandmaster's array One girl has t of hussar blue, with an Eton with slender black revers and of gold and black braid on each 1 as at the wrists of the very s ack collar and beit buttons, and a vest of yellow chamois i ~d with sn gilt buttons. The skirt has graduated lengths of the black and gold braid on sach side. 1 have already mentioned the fact that gowr glirls LATEST LONDON STYLE FOR WHEELWOMEN. t were a necklace. gold chain W arance of being a di although ma: ly one dazzling d nd nec and silk w amond. The high embroidered collarette will al- | worn by the thin-necked woman | es not want to show her throat. | But truth to tell, the thin necked woman | Inoks. better in a low neck dress than the | artist will corroborate this. fat one. A will te interesting, with its hollows and than the fat one with its cushions ss. The thin neck is I the fawn. and the artis from ust, whil N 5 witllongin seek the thin necked girl 0 pAsS “Bat for the woman who cannot be per- suaded to show her neck on the ground gness, there are S0 many es that one is confused in ntion them. One of them f a strip of mull—only this and ! In the middle 6f the strip dging of mull embroidery n inches in length. This finish for the fichu. rip of mull is carried around the sed In front, taken to the back gain_and brought n. Here it Is tied 1ay be a four-in-hand neck, -cre of: the neck, crosse around to the front A knot which imple tie. The ends are shirred into puffs and finished with a little embroid- ery. . The mull, being thin, is not cumber- someé te the neck, and it is becoming. UL course it hes like calico and is there- fore a desirable feature of the summer wardrobe So many of these straight mull strips orn as neckties t one wonders if are not the most popular of all neck trimmings. With these low ne mentioned in the be ing, some lati- tude ‘in hair dressing is allowed. None but- a professional beauty can twist her ir in_a tight knot at the back of-her It'is absolutely necessary that the ir.be curled in the nape of the neck d ‘waved around the face and ears. A very becoming summer hair arrange- ment {s formed by waving the hair throughout its entire length. The back Is tied In the middle of the head and is heapéd into a net. The net is pinned at the ‘middle of the head, forming an oid- fashioned chignon. The chignon fails low enough to cover the back of the neck. Two little follow-me-lads curls are such as were 5" of white chiffon | chiffon | you that the thin neck is| o few silk petticoats with “lingerfe” flounc be the only correct thing with faghlonable women. In Paris several sets of lace trimmed ruffles come for each silk petti- coat. Fashionables can not rerounce the rustle of the silk, yet must have the soft | and dainty fullness of white lawn and se. The silk petticoat itself has only the one of w; time the galned by would a ashing material. Up to this fred would have been of the figu which would be bad tyle. It re One of the prett caught my in the fine st items that ha eye this week is a blouse coat of panne, a kind of plush velvet, or, perhaps, more nearly allled to the silk of which gentlemen's hats are | made. It formed a pattern on the back | and round the shallow basque. It was around the brim and thus | are being manufactured fastened with three handsome a light green color, will be used as and is very e 1 have alrea 000C0000C0O000000000000000000000000DJVCOCOCOCOO0CO00C0O00000D TAKE CARE OF THE EYES. By Mme. Hygeia. 0002000000 CO0000C000C0000C0CO0O000C0000CL00000000000C00QCCO00 paris of entire costumes, ve poken of the varfety of 1ces on the skirt, piped with 20 er All ages, poets have sung and lovers | flickering or insufficient light. in a reclining po 1 in a moving raved, over the windows u’i lex organs of the considerate | how few people take | Don’t read books with v g The light should fall over the left shoul- der or from behind. Don’t expose the eye too suddaaly to very brilliant light. your eyes before as the strain on the optic nerve will se: ffect the sight. tremely weary. no greater misfortune that could befall one than to be depri What it would mean to you to be shut out from all the beautiful thin the world, to feel but not = sunshine, never to catch a glimpsi | the heavens, loveliness of »f loved one, while darkne for this is wha and yet how man endanger their sight by carele by overtaxing the ey mechanism more wonderful tive size of the window throu; ed of sight over them, at that instant put_aside your book or work. eyes should call are a few upon their faces; . that may be safe- simple home remedi inflamed eye ish for weak the eye is all the eral times a day until | h which, at m paste, *made tude of glorles reaching out in every di- egg until a curd is formed, for granulated 1s not necessary, cription of 'th to enter into any natomy of the | of soft linen over the One grain of yellow ¢ mixed with thick, ide of mercury am will often inflammation llent for a st | pal divisions are: ordinarily kr The cornea, »wn as the white of th is the colored circle rounding the 1 nd is also exc to the cul- and lashes. plete without a few wo tivation of the ¢ To keep the “through th pupil; and th between the external world ar The eyelids are curtains completely ex- cluding the margins of these lids are | short curved hairs g serve as a screen to wash made by mixing five grain sulphate of quinine in one ounce of a them frequently with camel’s hair brush. wever, do not use this on thoe To make these grow clip an apply a_tonic | made of equal parts of cocoanut oil ;m{il This is also good for the e is a bony rid covered with a line of short, thick hal which carry the perspiration around t The eve is a domplete optical white vaseline, ment, a camera of the same kind as that used by artists in making sun plctu but infiintely more perfect | stryment which human t produced. beauty of the face depends very greatly upon the size, color and condition The general health has much appearance ‘And now, remember this, all of you wha want bright eyes. had been shown. They will soon than any in- The beauty this can be easily cultivated. will brigliten the eyes like a bright, orig- and bright- in the face, and I assure you that eyes will shine and scintillate as did the star of Bethlchem, and will be to all wise men the symbol of a sweet, intelli- ent mind, before whose radlance slight rregularities of of the eye. to do with and the condition of the eyesight, so first attention to the s together with cconomy in the use of full, but not deep, flounce to sustain | will instantly stant care the eyes, night and mornidg, ter is a won ys with a soft towel, wiping - and never out as this has a tendency to colle Take carc in drying to ore eball, as a flattening of considered a sign of ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. EDITH—Please ~don't writng to me so often. answer as many questions as you please That is what I am here for. advertisements sound plausible, there is so much charlatanry in that sort of thing that 1 think, as a rule, the more high-sounding they inother skirt, but that | lerful tonic. I will cheerfully v from the knees down that we must | and flatten the e the lens of the eye approaching old age, sooner than natu Here are a few “don’t wish to retain their sight and keep their eyes in healthy condition: Don't read or sew by twilight or by a t fawn-colored cloth, trimmed | | with applique * for those who safer it is to be wary of them. UNHER. & ck and diminishing at the jacket has revers of white :r ‘the pink, and was trimmed with the fashionable fine crochet on the epaulets, a_high collar and a large jabot of whité chiffon; it ended at the waist, and the skirt fastened over it. This department is for the benefit of all beauty-seekers, and correspondence is cordially invited. Questions will be answered in these columns. Sign any name that you chocse and address all commu- nications to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. read at least half a dozen advertisements that claim exactly the same thing as this | one_that you hav sent me, and they each svery one of them claim to be the sure cure.” The Qquotations in our letter were taken from a book that was published twenty-five years ago, so the remedies suggested are somewhat be- hind the times, and you will notice that cach assertion is qualified with the words “It is said.”” I am afraid I cannot hold out to you anything more comforting than I have said to you in previous let- ters. ls the growth too heavy for the electric needle? I should stop -.orrying nd experimenting if I were you, and just make myself so charming and attractive ver think of my one ; and, besides, I doubt if It s apparent to others as it seems to be to you. TROUBLES—TIt really s discouraging to be called upon to prescribe for some one who has tried “almost every remedy under_the sun,” and to no avail. I hon- estly believe that the orange flower sk:n food, which I have several times given recipe for would help you. But, as you ; do not seem to_ agrsa with sh you would try this, the skis 2—I_answered your letter as bly could, and you, no received it shortly’ after ‘malling econd one to me. Letters, to re- answer in_the following Sun- ould be fn The Call office v night. The skin food is made from the ing ingredients: maceti, ¥% ounce. White wax, % ounce. Sweet almond ofl, 1 ounce. Lanoline, 1 ounce. Cocoanut ofl, 1 ounce, Tincture of benzoin, 2 drops. Orange flower water, 1 ounce. Melt the first five ingredients in a por- celain kettie. When _thoroughly incor- porated remove from the fire and add the henzoin and orange flower water, —stir- ring rapidly until cold. Put in Ifttle white jars.” I know of nothing better in the wiy of a skin whitener than cucum- ber milk, made after this recipe: Ofl of sweet almonds, 4 ounces; fresh cucumber juice (bofled), 10 _ounces: white castile Soap, % ounce. solve in 3 ounces of essenice of cucumbgrs and 1-20 ounce of simple tincture of benzoin. Cut the cu- cumbers in small pieces, neither peeling nor removing the seeds, and pour on just enough water to start them to cooking When cooked soft and mushy strain through a piece of muslin. You can make the essence yourself by taking one and one-half ounces of alcohol and one and one-half ounces of the boiled cucumber juice. Add to this your castile soap and let it stand for several hours until the soap has entirely dissolved. Then put in the cucumber juice which is strained and cold. Shake well so that all are thor- s ‘mixed and then add ofl of sweet ds and _the benzoin, stirring for some time. Put in_a bottle and shake well before usin Apply it at night, let- ting it dry on skin and rinsing away in tepld water the following morning. d (-] © © © [ (] o o 27 The natural arsenic in the cucumber makes. this a splendid face bleach, and the beauty of it is that it is perfectly harm- less. For answer to your third question read answer to Loleta in Sunday Call of August 7. OATMEAL LOTION. Two tablespoonfuls fine oatmeal. Boil and strain. When cold add: One dessertspoonful of wine (white Rhine preferred) and the juice of o lemon. The oatmeal will give nourishms: wine will remove the greasy appearance and the lemon will whiten. Or, you might try first, the plain oatmeal water, wrich is spoken of in my reply tc A Eriend. JUSTINE Y—As you did not give me your address I could not send personal reply. 1 always object to recommending anything with which to dye the hair or the evebrows. It gives one such an un- cleanly, vulgar appearance, and yet I know that dark, heavy brows do add to one's good looks. Walnut dye is often used for the purpose, but it is very apt to stain the skin. I think I should pre- fer the gallnut wash, which has been used for many ages by the Moorish women. Here is the formula: Gallnuts, 121 grams; sulphate of iron, 2% grams; water, T5 grams. Boil the nuts for half an hour. Strain through fine muslin and add iron. Boil and reduce two-thirds. Keep well corked, and apply with a small brush, taking care not to let the liquid touch the skin_or get into the eyes. HELENE—I do not believe that lano- Itne wiil induce a growth of hair on the face more than any othar olly substance. If you like you can increase the amount of ‘benzoin to ten or fifteen drops. I would not advise more than the latter amount. Moles vary [ always think it is best to consuit a phy- sician or a skilled dermatologist before treating them. However, I think yours can be removed by the application of a strong acid. This will form a scab over the mole, which in a short time will fall off. taking the mole with it. I would so in character that | after pgllin% them ouf with prepared chalk, and the operation will have to be repeated. They may and they may not come in thicker than before. There Is ab- solutely no sure way of ridding one’s face of superfluous hairs except by the use of electricity, and even this is not always successful, for unless the hair bulb is en- tirely killed it will grow again. And in the case of fine hairs or fuzz the opera- tion would be too trying and tedious for even the strongest nerves. Most oils have a tendency to stimulate the growth of the hairs, olive oll particularly. The cold cream that I gave recipes for will not cause the hairs to grow. It is the animal fats used in the cheaper creams that bring about that heartrending result. Witch hazel should not cause the pores to enlarge, and if your skin is particularly sensitive dilute it one-third. If not, it can be used pure. Use it only on the nose, un- less the rest of the face is red also. No, cornstarch is not injurious to the skin. M. D.—I think there is a thimble-shaped appliance which is worn on_the ends of the fingers to give them the desired taper, but I do not know where this can be got, nor, in fact, if you can find it here. Pinch- ing the ends of the fingers may have the desired effect. MME. HYGEIA. USES OF JINSERTION. OTHING sets better upen cloth than insertion. This comes by the vard in all colors and costs from $150 per vard upward. It is wide and a yard goes a great way upon the dress. An old cloth dress can be made very at- tractive indeed with insertion. Now that it is no longer the fashion to have a plain NEW IDEA FOR A PRETTY COLLARETTE rather not publish the name of the acid, as great care is necessary in using it, but if you will send me a stamped ad- dressed envelope I will tell it to you. A FRIEND—Pure lemon_ juice Wwill re- move the stains from the finger nails. By "Yhick flesh under the nail” I.presume you mean the callous skin that comes from the use of the file. Friction with a piece of pumice stone or an emery board will, fn_time, remove this. 'To soften and whiten the hands, wash them In oatmeal water. Take some good oatmeal, boil it in water for an hour, Strain and use the liquid to wash with night and morning. For an oily, sallow | skin there is nothing better than a good follet vinegar. Here is a simple one that is easily made: One ounce drled rosd leaves; one-half pinit white wine vinegar; one-half pint Tosewater. Pour the vinegar on the rose Jeaves and let stand for a week. Strain and add the rosewater. This is also very good to put on your face before applying owder. Never use soap on the face just Before using a vinesar. MARGARET—If the pores are inclined to be large, the treatment you refer to might have a slight tendency to increase their size, although I have neyer known of its having had that effect. You might try the following freckle lotion before try- ing the paste if you have any doubts about it: Three grains borax, five drams rose- water, five drams orange flower water. Great care is always necessary after using any freckle remover in order to pre- | vent a new crop from (h‘\'v\opm%. The skin is made more susceptible to wind and sun and so needs extra protection. MONA—Yes, the fine hairs will return =) SUITABLE COIFFURES TO BE WORN WITH A LOW NECK DRESS. A HIGH HEAD DRESS MAKES THE NECK LOOK TOO LONG. skirt, a plain, deep band of the :nsertiom which rises to a point in the back can be set around the foot of the skirt and should it be desired plain little fans of chiffon or mull can be set in. YOUR CBOICE IN DRESSES. HIS dress can be made so that it will cost $80, or you can get it up for $8. The materials in case you want an expensive dress are: Five vards of the newest importation of grena- dine, which comes at $4 50 per yard; two yards of heavy white satin, which is to be set under the box plaited border of the overdress, and a width of Persian silk for the front of the dress. You wili need as many inches of Persian silk as the skirt is long. One width will make the vest and front panel. Border the Greclan squares with silk braid and line the en- tire dress with oil-botled taffeta. To get this up for $8 buy: Six yards of crepon at 50 cents a yard, forty inches ot shot silk for the front. Instead of silk braid use baby ribbon around the squares and in place of heavy white satin under the squares use China silk. The shot. silk is uged for a panel and vest instead of the Persian silk. In one case the dress is made of grena- dine, Persian silk, white satin and silk braid and is silk lined. In the other the same effect is produced with crepon, shot silk, China silk and ba- by ribbon- and percaline for lining. NEW STYLES BdIR DRESSING. OCIETY is dtvided this summer be- tween French and English hair dressing. French hair dressing is pompadour. The hair, if not nat- urally curly, is puffed over the forehead and: around the face, after’ which it is brought up into a big knot on the top of the head. For evening it is decorated with narrow ribbon and sprays of silk perfumed flowers. The English coiffure, on the other hand, begins by parting the hair in the middle. It is puffed on each side of the part and is draped in such a way as to form a big knot low in the nape of the neck. This ves a low forehead and covers the ears comingly. It will be noticed that most of the new styles of halr dressing are so arranged as to cover the ears, after the tu‘fivn Loriginated by Cleo de Merode. &