The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, July 10, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JULY 10, 1898. Speclal to The Sunday Call. 7 EW YORK, July 8.—It 18 easv T\\ enough to select an evening s | ires gowns for yacht- croquet and golf, circumscribed by cer- hion limitations, but to the dress to , it must be confessed for an a §s 15} able to be worn on table the breakfast n described. will @0 for morning nses. Unless a dress is made r of very exj silk or less it s distinctiv 1 even- 1t Cah e kfast ety. Thus, a driv or t gown looks we at the break- althou not specially such w serfect Iy ess for sum- and ool ne ever appear their break- an is vis- huddled in hite goods that too light and two ter ma th. He said ths there we ‘that we » satin, which arket demand for t over bunches of is out oth in th S is ¢ W v to make piaz- of novelt round wa ided boudo gown, tie a rib- it around ruffle can be n breakfast s the Diair plain skirt s gives a very that is extreme- 1 for all natty place of only 1 cent er that a >f goods. AN ORGANDIE WAIST FOR A MIDSUMMER MORNING. this pleasant morning gown made up as ely as any one would want. prejudice against the organ- s apt to look so very ng sack. It requires a and even talent to S0 - what it will look t table of—say a large die waist bec much ik d make org t the break. one of these in the parlor of a hotel a few mornings ago, where er had strolled after of black and white striped 1 should say, of was tucked an g and puffing come by the rter of a yard will make voke, Few people care to ¢ extended across the back. voke and the body of the e ruflle of chiffon, which with very small button- N pearl buttons. This €N off ‘when the waist was done up. In blue and white this would be quite as pretty and in the new shades it would be positively heautiful, Much this year depends upon color. It is more the color than the material. The most attractive new shades have made thelr appearance, rivaling in brightness the sky blue and old yellow of other days. * Turquolse, parme and*quartz among the blues are brilliant enough, and so are oleander, shrimp and watérmelon among the pinks. Organdies or mulls in these colors are extremely fashionable, and you will find them a few cents higher in price t was a ¢ 8 buttoned on hoies and dair could be she | ttirned | breakfast. | d| upon the new colors because of the fact that they are scarce. The factories are £0 busy turning out army cloth and brown linen for Cuba that there is no time to | work upon new colors. A whole volume could be written upon the summer fichu this year and upon its mmmer possibilities. It is a daring woman who undertakes to go away, or even to y _at home, without one of these fichus in her wardrobe. She will ed it. The place of the fichu this year is something similar to that of the bo- lero last r. It is used to disguise and cover the dress and make it appear like new. A fichu, properly made, will make an old cotton waist look like one of this summer’'s creations. 1 saw one of these in a y ate box of one of New York's famous vaudeville theaters. It was of burnt orange silk, draped low around the neck, exposing the wearer's throat. The material was China silk with the and then caught in groups ch to form a - hemstitch. the edge it was trimmed with Around double ruchings of burnt orange chiffon, trimmed with black stitching. The ruffles were headed with tiny gatherings of baby satin ribbon. It was worn over a black silk walst, which was made perfectly | plain and might possibly have been an | old waist. Mull and or~andie make admirable fichus They are cut diamond shaped, with their round, pointed diamond ends. ' The entire fichu is ruffied around the edge and when folded becomes the right shape. The ends hang down the front almost to the floor i+ some c In others they extend merely to the w The length can be regulated by the length of the long ends of the dia- mond, cut as long as you desire the fichu to be. s will make an extreme- ly long one. Begin to point the ends im- mediately and make them as narrow as possible, Shoes are different in design. I three new models the other day. One was of black satin with Louis Quinze buckle, for the plazza. Another was of striped silk, silk lined, with feather top, for the boudofr, and a third was a_very ‘high rainy-day shoe. HELEN WARD. LATEST PARIS GOWNS. Paris Correspondent of The Call EAL or imitation lace forms an important part of dresses thissea- son and is used almost in every thing. Lace for insertion, lace flounces, dresses made entirely of point or guipure, are very much n. Lve Seen a very pretty evening dress soft Nile green satin. The skirt is fitting round the body at the behind, and quite flat in front. is long all round at the bottom, and small train. The lower part, from forty centimeters from the hem, is ornamented with three narrow silk | n es to match the satin, all of equal and in fine accordion pleats, and d with narrow ruches of mousseline de sole to match. Be ath the satin skirt an independent skirt of white taffeta. Above the uppermost flounce is a row of imitation Alencon lace insertion, laid on | flat over the taffetas and forming a head- | ing to-the flounce. This heading is edged with narrow ruches like those on the | flounces. Above it‘is a space of plain | satin ten centimeters wide, and above this in another row of insertion, edged with ruches, running-all ‘round the skirt. The corsage; which is .cut square at the neck, is a blouse of -accordion pleated mousseline de sole over the satin, and is | ornamented down the front with four rows of imitation Alencon Insertion very light in design. | The back is similarly trimmed. Round | the decollete is a bertha frill of Alencon lace, forming three points in front and the same number behind, and edged with a narrow ruche like the flounces on the skir Above the bertha 1is a similar ru e. THe bertha is extended into epau- lets. At the fall of the left shoulder is » bouquet of mauve orchids, mixed with 1ys of maldenhair fern. The sleeves e of mousseline de sole, mounted on a band, and forming a small dra- The waistband is of the same m with long scarf ends on the left edged with ruches to match and or- close namented at the bottom with three rows | of Alencon insertion. The ruche round | the bottom of the scarf falls to the bot- | tom of the skirt. - | At the same establishment I saw a | dress of black taffetas, the skirt of which is made In two parts. The upper part is extremely tight all around the figure, and the lower part, which begins about half is_ trimmed with a flounce The dress is trimmed all over with rich open-work embroidery, | which shows beneath it an underskirt of | turquoise taffetas. | The design of the embroidery i8 in un- | dulating lines, Increasing in size from the top to the bottom. The flounce is em- broidered in the same style as the upper | part of the skirt, the parts between _the | serpentine lines being filled with small | designs embroidered with jet, which run | thrice around the skirt at the bottom. In the center of the flounce is another | elaborately embroidered design. The same | patterns are repeated in jet beads all over the upper part of the skirt. The corsage ‘13 a_soft %lnuse in black taffetas, em- | broidered back and Yfront in the same style as the skirt, and aiso over tur- | quoise taffetas. ‘It is high behind, but | cut away in front, opening in a point | over a yoke of turquoise mousseline de sole in fine pleats, alternating with open | work. The neck trimming matches the | yoke, and the collarette is of white frilled | mousseline de soie, extending only round | the sides and behind. The sleeves are than the older colors. There is a premium | long and quite tight, and embroldered, Loty TINTANNRY i A BRIGHT PIAZZA MORNING DRESS OF NOVELTY GOODS. 08 308 08 08 306 08 ¢ | e geReR-R=3-F-2-3-3-3-FeF-Fot-FF=2-1-R R R R -FoRo R =R R R R R R R R qE k=R o R R R R R R - R R R R -F-F % T WRINKLES 40D FHCE MABSBHER. By Mme. Hygeia. feg=gegeFoF-Fo] feB=ReRcgegegegeR R RuRaRuRuTeFuggeRFugePegoR=FFeR TP FeFoRugaPuicget=F=FoR-FREoR-FcEaPeFoRFaRagegots] This department is for the benefit.of all those who are interested In cosmetics and the hygiene of proper living. Corre- WONI :R If there is anything that can cause a woman more acute de- spalr than the discovery of the first wrinkle. If there is, I have-not yet discovered what it is. It i{s surpris- ing with what rapidity the little lines multiply after that first distressing wrinkle makes its appearance. It seems just as though its sisters and its cousins and its aunts, taking pity upon its lonely estate, come and settle down with it for a nice, indefinite stay. And just as in the case of one's relatives, particulariy those “in-law,” who come and stay, and don’t know when to go, the all-absorbing question s, “How, oh how, to get rid of them.” Of course, lines will come with years, if one thinks and feels, but witn many they arrive long before there is any ne- cessity for them. And there is nothing that will encourage them like worcy or any mental disturbance. When one is bothered and out of sorts the face seems to settle into all sorts of lines. And, too, it has a most depressing effect upon the stomach, which is connected witn the brain by the most perfect and complete telegraphic system that one can possibly imagine. And, with the derangement of this organ come dull eyes, facial erup- tions and sallow, flabby skins. So the wise thing to do is to protect one's self against these worrisoma little lines, and not give them an opportunity to acquire a foothold. In other words, get out the “ounce of prevention’ and the “pound of cure” will not be neces- Eary. Tris, of course, applies to premature wrinkles. Very little can be dona wirh those which come with real old age. 1 have found that the pillow upon which one sleeps is one of the most fruitful sources of those fine lines about the eyes, known as ‘“‘crows’ feet,”” and the softer the pillow the more lines will they en- caurage, for they push the cheeks up into little folds that give one a most care-worn appearance. Look in the mirror the first tl): ng upon awakening and you will find the little botherations more apparent than at any other time in the twenty-four hours. The Japanese women use no pillows, but sleep upon a block of wood, which has been hollowed out for their necks to fit into. They have proverbially fine, smooth, wrinkle-less skins. The treatment of wrinkles lies in a hygienic method of living; taking frequent nns regular exercise; eating only such food as you know is good for you, and in- vigorating the muscles and skin of the body by tepid sponge baths and brisk rub- bing with a crash towel until the flesh fairly shines. This ke?:s the blood at the surface and helps ward off wrinkles. Also nourish the tissues of the face with a good skin food. The following will be found most excel- lent: %yermncefl, ounce. hite wax, 32 ounce. Sweet ‘almond oil, 1 ounce. Lanoline, 1 ounce. Cocoanut ofl, 1 ounce. Tincture benzoin, 2 drops. Orange flower water, 1 ounce. Melt the first flve ingredients in a por- celain kettle. When thoroughly incorpo- rated remove from the fire and add the benzoin and orange flower water, stirring rapidly until cold. Put in little white This is great for wrinkles. It will fat- ten the tissues and raise the lines of the face until the wrinkles are completely obliterated. Facial massage will ward off wrinkles better than anything else, and every woman can do this for herself. Dip the ends of the fingers in the skin food, then go carefully over the entire face, with the thumb and forefinger, rub- bing the cream Into the skin and gently pinching the flesh. Always rub across the wrinkles, in a direction con- the wrinkles take. es. re to be strength- rotary round-and- round movement, instead of straight back and forth. For the lines at the sides of the mouth and nose, erase by simple, straight motions, using the first finger of both hands. The movements in mias- saging the face should be such as one would use in rubbing out a crease in a plece of fine satin. Keep the massage up for five or ten minutes. In addition to this treatment, don't twist the face into all sorts of shapes when talking; don’t laugh in such a way as to pucker the skin about the eyes and the corners of the mouth; cultivate a placid, serene and happy dfsposition and 1 feel pretty certain that the wrinkles will be annihilated as completely and with as little difficulty as was the Span- ish fleet when it fell into Admiral Samp- son’s hands. ol S ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS. DOROTHY VENNER.—My answer to Marion Tyler in The Call of June 19 does not apply to moles such as you complain of. The specles with which you are af- flicted are usually congenital or else in- herited. The coigring matter which con- stitutes them s deposited in the deeper portion of the subcuticle and they are impossible to reach. There is nothing that will remove them. These little pigmen- tary spots are looked upon by some as positively attractive. HINDA.—The curling fluid which you mention is merely a_preparation to make the hair stay in curl. It is to be applied to the hair before putting up on papers ‘or kids or braiding, as you say you do yours. There is nothing that will make Straight hair naturally curly. The reason why some hair is curly is because in some people the follicle or cuticular sac, out of ‘which each hair springs and in which it is molded, has a curved or spiral form. Hairs arising from such molds naturally take a curly form. I know of no better way to wave the front hair than to braid it as you do, unless you put it up on crimping pins that come for the purpose. A READER.—Yes, strawberries very of- ten cause such a rash. The free acid which they contain make them such a vio- lent poison to some persons that a single dish of them will produce a rash in less than two hours. Cease eating the berries and the rash no doubt will disappear. If | spondence is cordially invited. Ask as many questions as you like and sign any name that you choose. Address all communl- | cations to Mme. Hygeia, The Sunday Call, San Francisco. it does not there must be some other cause for it. In that case write to me again and I will try to tell you of some- ihing that will help it. MARGARET F.—The treatment of pim- ples to prove successful should consist of constitutional as well as local measures. As to the local treatment, very often t is beneficial in one case may be in- in another. 1In the majority of t however, the following lotion may be used with benefit: Lac sulphur, 2 drams; glycerine % ounce; spirit phor, 2 drams; elderflower wafer, 4 ounc: The face should first be washed in very hot water and then the lotion ap- plied. Do this at bed time, and leave on all night. The constitutional treatment should consist of systematic bathing, plenty of exercise in the open air, and an avoldance of certain articles of food, such as hot bread, buckwheat cakes, pastry, cheese, nuts, chocolate and ail sweet, fried and highly seasoned food, also wines and beer. MISS E.—TI do not approve of dyes and bleaches for the halr, and so prefer not to recommend them. If the hair is al- ready light the following wash will help {Imt yellow threads to keep thelr golden nts. It is called a lemon hair wash, and is made of one ounce of salts of tartar, one quart of water and the juice of three lem- ons. Apply with a small, soft brush at such times as you think the hair needs it. Tt is not a bleach, and is perfectly harmless. BROWN EYES.—The question of wash- ing the face seems to be one upon which no two people agree. Women do not seem to realize that what is good for one complexion is not good for another. As a rule hot water is a mistake. It makes the skin harsh and stretched and gives it a shiny look that is anything but love- ly. It makes the skin liable to chap and if there is any tendency to coarse pores the hot water will increase it. Don’t buy creams and lotions that you know nothing about. Do not use anything on the face unless you know all of the ingredients. Tnestimable damage is done complexions by these advertised ‘*‘beautifiers,” for nearly all of them contain deadly poisons in greater or less proportion. Do not use a powder, either, unless you know it to be pure. 'If you do not happen to have one that you are sure of write to me again and I will give you a formula for one. The proper time to wash the face is at night before retiring, thus cleansing the ores of dust gathered during the day. gonp does not agree with all skins, and yet if you are troubled with blackheads it is almost impossible to get rid of them without using it. Invest in a camel’s hair face brush and scrub the face with tepid water and pure castile soap each night. Be sure and rinse away all the soap, then dry and put on the cold cream, rubbing it into the pores until it is all absorbed. The next morning bathe the face {n clear tepid water and before putting on pow- der you can, if you like, put on a tiny bit of the cold cream. I feel sure that this treatment will do away with the black- heads. If it does not, let me know and I will give a recipe for a lotion to use in connection with it. CALL SUBSCRIBER.—No. MME. HYGEIA. like the dress, over turquoise taffetas. 1 The epaulets, which are rounded and | embroidered, have three rows of embroid- | ery round the edges, forming a cordonnet. | The cuffs are trimmed with embroidered taffetas flounces, partly covering lh‘li hands, -and embroidered to match the epaulets. The waistband is of turquoise taffetas, simply draped. * | I was show a sleeveless chemisette to | be worn beneath a jacket. It is| of lemon-colored foulard, cut into i lozenge patterns by means of small | pleats ‘edged with Valenciennes. In the | center of each lozenge is a rose of guip- | ure, surrounded by a gathering of Valen- clennes, set upright. The petticoat rep- resented In the illustration is of the same materfal, quite tight fitting half way | down. The lower part is trimmed w..h a flounce of the same material, wider be- | hind than in front, and inlaid with two | rows of insertions. This flounce is edged with a gather of wide lace. I have had a drawing made of a sky | blue foulard dress, spotted with white, | the spots being irregular and very far apart. The upper part of the skirt is tight, like a fourreau, and very flat in front. The fullness behind is hidden be- neath a flat pleat on each side. The en- largement begins almost suddenly about half way down and from about fifty cen- timeters from the bottom it widens still | more. The skirt is ornamented with a | Greek border twenty-five centimeters in depth, composed of wide guipure inser- inlald fn the foulard. It is long all| around and quite plain below the border, | and is made up over an underskirt of | white taffetas with a wide pleated flounce | at the fall. The corsage is a blouse in | shape all round, but more so in front than behind. It is cut low and square. disengaging the neck and shoulders. The neck is trimmed round with guipure in- sertion, which runs down the front on | the right side to the waist. The corsage | folds over from right to left, and is fas- tened with three large buttons in ame- | thyst and strass. The yoke above the corsage is of mauve mousseline de soie over white taffeta: the neck trimming is of the same mater als draped, with a large soft bow in front and tied very closely in the center. The sleeves are tight and model the arm; they are composed of small pleats of the fou- lard taken out of the length, alternating with guipure insertion, of which there | are three hoops on each sleeve. Above | the elbow the foulard is without pleat The cuffs are trimmed with lace flounces. | The waistband is of narrow mauve mir- | roir velvet. The hat worn with this co: tume is a punchinello shape, much turned up, in sky blue straw, the points being at the sides. This hat is trimmed in front with a butterfly bow of mauve mousseline de soie, composed of three loops on each side closely tied in the middle. NEW THINGS IN TRUNKS. N improvement on the tray t¢runk manufactured in America is the dresser trunk of England. This is also a tray trunk, but arranged dif- ferently. Instead of the trays resting upon each other, lifting in and out from the top, they slide on rods like the drawers of a dresser, the trunk opening in front in- | stead of on top. This arangement makes it entirely unnecessary to disturb any other part of the trunk when wishing to obtain an article which is packed in the bottom tray or drawer. These trunks are brought out in all sorts of designs and cubby holes, just the chiffonier or ordinary bedroom dr er is arranged. The hat boxes, collar and fact, every convenience, here, or a trunk may be made | supposed young man w to suit the purchaser. The tra have little rings by which they are drawn out THE NEWEST WH and the interiors are finished in linen with satin sachet pads. The up-to-date girl never changes her perfumes, but has her trunk pads filled with the same scents as those which she uses in her bureau at home, or even packs the same pads into her trunk as surely as she does her clothing. They are really a part of her wardrobe. If they cannot be of mousseline de sole or dainty Swiss, the pretty siloklines will be found quite as useful. WOMEN WHO WORE UNIFORMS RM IN THE GIVIL WAR. ANY and thrilling are the tales told of the heroism of women, both of the North and South, during the War of the Rebellion. The women of the war may be divided into three classes. The first class included the women who served as nurses in hospitals and on the fleld of battle. Of these much has already been written. The second class was that very useful body of scouts and sples whose dress and actions were according to circumstances. ‘They appeared as stylish dames surround- ed by admirers in the morning, and in % MORNING GOWNS AND MIDSUMMER WEAR 4% *he ‘evening as dissipated youths, drop- ping into billlard rooms and like resorts, to detect plots of the enemy. Those who, fired by burning zeal to serve their country, actually donned a uniform and shouldered a musket to serve the cause formed theé third cl of women of the war. Of:these there were many more than is generally supposed. As far back as 1863 the Memphis Argus pub- lished a paragraph of news headed “Death of a Cavalry Soldier Who Provéd to Be It read: a Woman.” to a regiment was en- tered at tie ‘Overton Hospital' for treat- ment for fever contracted in camp. The soldier died, but not before it had been revealed that the supposed young man was a woman. She ha followed her lover into the'army, and to be near him | had willingly braved the dangers of bat- tlefield gnd borne the hardship posures of campaign life. Her y not hav 2 An inte another who bec and ex- ars could love.” Her name was 4 of Detroit, Mich. In the spring of 1862 she was empjoyed in a dry good in Detroit, where she made the acquaint- irst ance of a'lieutenant of the Twenty Michigan Infantry, and an intimacy sprang up between them. They cc sponded for some time and became warm- ly attached. The -thought of being parted from her lover. made her so unhappy that she re- solved are his danger and be near i sing male attire she enlisted in Captain Kavanaugh's company, of the Twenty-first Regiment, and managed to cret from all, not even the ob- affections, who met her dai being aware of her preser with her regiment for passed through all the danger of camp life, endured long marche: slept on the ground witho Before the battle of Pea R her regiment took part, covered Ly a member of her compan but he promised to keep her secret. After the battle she v sent, among others to bury the d and the first cory was that of the soldier who had disco ered her sex. She became a favorite in the regiment and Colonel Stephens quently detailed her ‘When on picket duty wound in the arm hospital at Loui months she was home, as her arm w dered useless. A brave girl was Miss Mary Wise, who served truly for the lo after the war became S geant Forehand of New Hampsiure, Another young woman, Miss Sarah Tay- lor, tarried among the ten Ten- nessee, determined to share with her mal reiatives and friends the dangers and fatigues of a military campaign, donned a blue chapeau, a highly finished regu- lation sword and silver mounted pistols, mounted her horse and accompanied the :giment to reinforce Colonel Gerrart. ap in hand she galloped along the lines, cheering on the men, who regarded her as their gua n gngel, who was to lead tuem to victory In the spring of 1863 a captain arrived at Louisville, Ky companied by a young oldier apparently about the age of 17, who attracted the attention of Colone{ Mundy as being exceedingly sprightly and intelligent, and he detailed him for duty at the barrac A few days later the startling fact was discovered that the a woman, the fact being established by a soldier who was raised in her town. Her story is one of interest. Frank Martin (her assumed name) was born in Bristol. Pa., and was educated at the convent in Wheeling W. , where she acquired an excellent education and many accomplishments. After leaving the ing farewell to her par- Ke! ad, ived a severe as sent to the After several arged and ent tiffened and ren- and w rille. d in the Second East Ten- ee Ca Yy, and accompanied the army of the Cumberland to Nashville, She was in the heat of battle at Murfrees- ITE MULL FICHU. boro, and was severely wounded in the shoulder, but fought gallantly, and waded Stone River into Murfreesboro on _ the memorable Sunday on which the Unfon forces were driven back. In having her wounds dressed her sex was discovered and the fact made known to General Rosecrans. The general was favorably impressed with her bravery, but would not allow her to remain in the service, and personally superintended the arrange- ments for her safe transmission to her parents. “Frank” was only 18 years old, quite. smali, refined of manner and had a beau- tiful figure. She was an excellent horse- woman, and was honored with the posi- tion of bugler to the regiment. I find only one recorded instance of a woman who donned the gray—Sue Mon- dey, or Lieutenant Flowers, who served in Kentucky, on Captain Berry's staff. She wore a full Confederate uniform, with a jaunty plumed hat, from beneath which escaped a wealth of dark brown hair in luxuriant curls. She had a beautiful figure, a dark, pier(‘lnf eye, and a soft musical voice, was a bold rider and daring leader. Prior to her command with Berry she had been associated with Captain Alex- ander, and was present at his tragic death in.Southern Kentu: —_—— Veneer cutting has reached such per- fection that a single elephant’s tusk thirty inches long Is now cut into a sheet of ivory 150 inches long and 20 inches wide.