The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 1, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 1, 189S. Specfal to The Call W YORK, April r to be & can be fairly well with a skirt and a is the laconic way a You dressed necktie,’ not quite It is to be 2 ~This 15' tle sea- | | »cktie made | a waist, but the | nt that the fash- ic think it worth ht tie. If you n get a very aborate, These four- rig They nar- middls 16 a mere band. twice around the re then tied in regular shioh, 7 6. knpt. the-ends fall to ¢ ‘they broaden out in a most these ends in @ 'this affords an oppor- i of small diamond ncies is a little al embedded in u tiny can be obtained which are us gems are worth a Formérly all stones that were 1 £ ralds, pearls considered “‘imita- 1 were relegated to the “‘junk” But this 1dea has been put aside gem has come into vogue. o have a stone which looks vet in no way imitat > the ollvine. This green very much like an ering from it in opaque one is a d emerald, & qualities. "It is made up in pins for t neck, hatpins and brooches, but it looks well in all > olivine pin is perhaps the most_fas > for s for it is green, and lor toward Tyhen fancy ts of love, as numer- in-} beh purple, parm The violet e vi the most fashions d of white by THE FOUR-IN-HAND AND THE BUTTERFLY. »ad one of violet; 1d another violet become on the neck. y violet pin. is another which s dis . It you want to be that is large enough ecure a picture of a genuine the size of the whi end be governed French Maid” tie is pa model, and of course able it must exces this tie you get a least §: t 2d" up on, Y 1 sew the strips together ve tening d raw edges s Il not fray, for nothing tears out and s like chiffon. and if you want to be I on, quite regardless of expense, fasten a nar- Tow ruffle of lace over the chiffon, alter- nate with another chiffon rufil s until Ton ends to th i. Now_put have depth of an our chiffon tie it into a big bow under ger the better. Pull bow until you ha “You can be as fashionable ti sle find it untidy .to ffon ties next to the spiration of the . tie in one wearing, and is that it looks solled and unfit ond wearing. To avoid this 1 next to the skin brought ov nd mak you t is th This protects t fresh an hi are white with een. Purple with ends of white sed and green with purple and sw a deep ruffle of sun- | though her E of cheapest gingham ve e 5 s 3 nd her skirt of inexpensive light bril- | 3 SCrewed O SRt e E Ll liantine. oW - cha Glls tE oom, W 4 Pluin gingham dressos trimmed with | 0% SafTy o Food Sige o Which was rufiies and embroidered with cross stitch | Ror - the two . sitting rooms, blue Will be very popular, and with-them is | genim, made with the gray side ap; and Worn the most elaborate tle that can be | el lined with carpet lining, made conceived. A great chiffon bow measur- | most artistic floor covering. | ing nearly half a d across and fully | "For beds, good cots with woven w half a yard in length is not too large. A |eprings and mattress to fit are perf:r‘::‘l‘; great many dressmakers are going 1 comfortable at night, and during the day to the day when long ties were fashion- | make pretty couches. A valance of blue | SORTS OF PRETTY NECKWEAR the nd erroneous ope and the | then comes a | @ ou can alternate the three | Roman ribbon 1 can aliernats tro _\;mr]ir the fringe Su can ure that | few fin iRl | the. fie=Tnis ‘bably cost > that are | make it up for $1 50. flor made | There are few more attractive counters v tied in | just now than the neckwear counters, | 6 the waist. | The dealers have a way this spring of | king everything attractive to the face. | Fringe out the ends, and not heavy enough buy a 1k fringe and sew it on tie at the counter would $3, but-at home you can P! of the sum- put on at a r the sic-nosed girl there is the | to look for the girl of irregular chiffon bow; for | » to give de appearan irst time, The sa is bound ta k and span appear- the_tied four-in- a Roman striped arlet and yellow; deep greenand eep blue. [or white-haired woman e are soft grays and soft creams, and the woman In mourning there is an 1 of black and white be suited. very 11 if you are planning the summer campaign to buy your summer by the It is wise to pur- summer butterfly bows . You can possibly get them This will carry you through the > brunette pale blonde there t for t 5 an. extreme is the but- and one iffon bow Thi on for that kind of tie and you will ou have a variety on hand. So with and so with collars and cuffs. it of store makes a reduction by the Dlaited about and vou will find it much e it and the end than in buyin- a sin- e out the a single pair of cuffs. With ends and you ha chiffon iction comes in lots of butterfly bows. em for can be bought three et D . ; are makes o saving of QHLE L durable ery woman at the beginning of the 3 S8 yow will alw be eason should make an estimate Hitte_gatin how Wil SUESER Il probably have for r and fn its r can divide this ac- ey g “kfi'\i‘trm Jawance in summer 1nd hemmed. ng herself, she can hatterfly and | make a calculation this and can lay in’ the >h‘m'k out the money to better advantage than if she-spent it at random. A“word of advice must be sald of say- Do not attempt to have anything new Dress up s«d upon the col- ing summer tollettes. save them. If you wear it and wear it every d: this season - are collars. n of front and back |'and look pretty. Soon the “time_comes mple bands upon n every one v and_rusty )t d a shirt It or policy to yourself. aside your p: We band upon s fitted holes front | button- rious things. d on the for Sunday you hatve and u have the sat- t other peaple's ret r given out y of knowing tha have gone also. ols come with trimmings to match 1d there are slippers and occasion. iould be | around the neck | W35 & bant WORKING WOMEN'S ROOMS AND HOMES. round this more with . an manufac- o0 injudiciou$ as to turn | of them I HE question of how to live and refnsaliioint where is quite as important to the bachelor maid as the question of what to wear. Boarding houses should be pun- | v for the collar: while the shirt waist re- | This makes too much laun- | s out the walist in a shelter and a The woman who has not rauch to spend | place of existence, but they become so on shirt waists this summer will do well | entirely wearying after a few years that to divide her money and give one-half to & Beromad antte: anx 2 o neck trimmings. If she has $20 she can [“l"‘F 1”"1‘:‘)“” quite anxious to try some: get one silk waist, one nice non-wash | {8 €€ Sraist for evening wear and the re-| TWo young women have taken four mainder of money she spends in |rooms in a private house and are so hap- lawns, ginghams, calicoes and per-!py in their new experiment, which is six 2 If she s clev-|months old, that their experience will be at special sales interesting to the boarding house woman for a change. Japhnese boy comes to their rooms she can perhaps save $5 of that money, but she must take it for granted that she will need at least six w of various | Jeseriptions to carry her through the |for a dollar and a half a ‘week, and ummer, 2nd the sooner she gets to work | s s and washes dishes. They t them the better. Her ties are to be $1i ront SenaieEy . wetnal e 1 month pays for food, fuel and gas. The Japanese boy does all the plain washing, and the rest is sent out. The room was fitted up for the elected with no regard to material, but | ith regard to color. If the tie match hat, and the hat matches the gloves gloves match the skirt and th skirt is in harmony with veil and pins, | ath then woman may feel that she 1S |common dressing room, as an adjunct, wearing a Sult that is fashionable, even | with two large bureaus. A long mirror nd are saving out a plece of the goods for the necktie, piece of good is hemmed on both edges and on the ends. and is trimmed with a white lace ruffle, This makes a neat finish for the dress, aithough not as effective as a contrast- | furnituré. | Low bookshelves, made of common ing color. | y the carpenter and stained, with able, and white cotton tacked to the frame hides the legs. A spread. of the same, | edged with a ruffle and ending with the top, with pillows in different harmonizing colors, completes a really pretty piece of The cost of ties is at first sight fab- | pine ulous. But you must select a few of them | curtal of light blue denim, a small and add to them with home-made articles. | bamboo tea table, rocking chairs, pic- The Roman ties you can make at home | tures and plants complete the furnishing. ‘Well selected prints from the pictorial weeklies are cleverly framed for the walls. The dining room and kitchen, however, are the delight of the owners, and a small coal stove with a box for coal, made with a lid and stained a dark red, fills one corner. A long, wide shelf fas- tened to the wall near the sink made a kitchen table. A large screen, made by g:lucing the denim on a big clothes horse, divided the kitchen from the din- ing room. A common_ deal table with leaves ta let down stands by the window. It is covered with a blue and white spread when not in use. Holders and potlifters made of the denim In the form of bags to protect tha fand hang by a brass Ting in a line around the stove. A boX with a lid fas- tened outside the window like a flower box holds the vegetables and answers for a reirigerator. The girls take turns in doing the cook- ing and marketing, and both agree that it is no task, but rather a pleasure, and they have what they like to eat and for less than they have beéen paying. One of them had been much troubled with dyspepsia, and six months' home cooking and quiet meals have cured her, Both girls are sure they would be more than sorry if circumstances forced them to lose their dainty, pretty rooms and the new life they have made for them- selves. —_—————— HINTS TO HOUSEKEEPERS. Every housekeeper should know: That salt should be kept in a dry place. That melted butter Will not make a good cake. That veal should be white, dry and close-grained. That the colder eggs are the quicker they will froth. That good management is better than a good income. That mutton should be deep red and close-grained. That nutmegs shquld blossom-end first. That to make good pastry the ingre- dients must be very cold. That the best poultry has the firm flesh, yellow skin and legs. | That lemons will keep for weeks 1f | covered with cold water. That the best beef is moderately fat and the flesh of a bright red color. That pork should be fine, -close- grained and the rind smooth and thin. be grated at the 27 THE BIG ROMAN RIBBON TIE. 00000000000 00000000000000000000000000O0OD0O0O00O0OO000O0O00OO00O000000000O0000000000OQO0O o o o o o o o ITH “conservative” or "jinvl Senator Cockrell is another Populist | g0” attached to their names | whose party con' ct.o: have led him | our Senators needs must | to the wearing of a grav alpaca coat; | struggle with their reputa- |a garment especlally ce'ulated for | tions as well as with their | comfort on a dustry drive along a coun- | conwictions, and it is not al- | try road on a Lot summer day. | ways an easy matter to live up to one's| This gray alpaca coat is the dark | reputation. There must be many a | cloud hovering over his f ~tty daugh- | by purchasing three yards of broad silk | day, on the lines of “Oh, what a Dif- ference in the Morning,” when Mr. Ma- | son, for instance, if not in a Jingo mood, but realizing what is expected of him rises to his feet in the Senate de- termined. to do or die; to Give his little Senate laws And sit attentive to his own applause. The conservative Mr. Cullom from II- linois earned his right to be so called. if roused or inspired beyond the dig- nified limits he allowed himself no- body ever knew of the animation and enthusiasm burning under the calm, dignified exterior and all went well Nobody disputed his right to an exclu- sive elevation of respectability and the reputation he desired was always with him. But one cruel night this winter a dog fight was held in the stables adjoin'ng his house and the authorities, hearing of it, arrested one and all present, The Washington papers did not,even hint at the possibility of Mr. knowledge of, or-absence from, the ca- | nine war and ever since an unkind and | skeptical public has alluded to “safety | valves” or “still waters,” and whis- pered other unvarnished insinuations. | The Senatorial circle has its swells, | its plebelans and its middleregister,like every other body of people; its social | customs are strictly enforced and its established etiquette is on an unshak- able basis. The Diplomatic Corps, ex- cepting the four Embassadors of Eng- land, Germany, Italy and France, make the first call upon the members of the Senate, as representing sovereign states, and this is balm to many a Sen- atorial heart. Mrs. Lodge of Massachusetts fs ex- clusive, cold, haughty, a daughter of Boston’s elect. She is a handsome, aristocratic-looking woman, always ex- quisitely gowned in Paris costumes, which her beautiful figure sets off to the best advantage.. She looks like a very young woman; her friends ques- tion if this is because of the impassive Boston temperament, or if she imports a special complexion cream with her | trunks of French creations. Whatever the reason, the result is undisputed, and her eighteen-year-old son appears as a genuine surprise after one has met his mother. A perfect manner, a rare | tact and a sweet, if impersonal, smile add to Mrs. Lodge’s attractions. A pe- culiarity of hers is that she always! wears gloves on her day at home. Per- haps being obliged to shake hands with hundreds of strangers is the cause of this very unusual peculiarity. Senator Tillman has a boast, a pet boast; it is that he does not possess a dress suit. For he is a Populist—the pride of the people and th despair of his tailor. Cullom’s | its American owners it sued the lega- | brilliant, successful evening she an- | nounced to all her friends that they | were attendins her farewel en‘ertain- | ment, as her home was in the hands of | ter's happy career. ».e has been well | educated, trayeled through Europe | | when she left school and has had every | | advantage, for her father has not car- | ried out his party convictions in her| case, at least. She is a handsome, | bright, capable American girl. Her father does not care for social gayety, which is perhaps as well, considering | the coat, and as she has no mother /she is always accompanied by so “e of her friends, of wham 'here arc many proud | to chaperon so popular a girl. | Another prei‘y girl, and one who made her debut this winter at “Stewart | Castle,” is Miss Fox, the grand- daughter of the Nevada Senator, Me. | 1 Stewart. Stewart Castle has had a| | more eventful historv than most man- | sions of conservative aspect. At one | time, being leased to the Ch se lega- | tion, it had an opportunity to view the | life of the Orient under the auspices of | intimate association. Returning to tion for the astonishing sum of $80,000 for damages Cone its elegant interior. Mrs. Stewart gave a magnificent ball to | introduce her lovely granddaughter to | Washington society -nd durirg the | agents to be sold for an apartment | house. And lurking around the mag- | nificent ball room wherc so many good | times had been enjoyed many a genuine regret was feit at the prospective dis- posal of the house. The handsome home formerly occu- pied by Serator Stanford and his wife is still called the* Stanford house,” and in it is left some of .e furniture and pictures belonging to Mrs. Stanford. It is now occupied by Mr. Murphy of New York. Mr. Murphy is a great po- litical factor i1 the Senate; his daugh- ter married Hugh Grant, May.. of New York, and, through his son-in-law, Mr. Murphy is connected with the political element there. His debutante daughter | is an attractive girl whose position in Washingtan society is assured. Mr. Mantell is the bachelor of the Senate, and this means much, for the Senators have a little way of being married which has proved most trying to many a Washington girl. Mr. Morrill of Vermont is the loved and respected “grandpa’ of the Senate. “Grandpa Morrill” has just celebrated his eighty-seventh birthday. Every _year he holds a reception, to ‘which everybody goes to tender their con- gratulations and good wishes to the oldest member of the Senate. Mr. Mason of Chicago and Mr. Lodge | of Boston are, though so closely asso- ciated in one way, a case of “so near SENATORS AND THEIR WIVES AT HOME IN WASHINGTON. OO0000OOOOODOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOQ and vet so far,” just as thoroughly as are the two cities that they represent. Mr. Lodge is conservative, level-head- ed and cool, balancing his words care- fully and living up to the conscious- ness that everything he says carries weight. Mr, Mason plays to the gallery; his speeches have fire and are calculated to make any bosom beat in its coun- try’s cause. Mr. Mason has a small daughter; she has not left her babyhood far behind, and she has pretty blue eyes and a curly head. Mr. Gray is a Democrat who votes for his convictions, entirely regardless of party; he Is respected for his rug- ged integrity and honesty. He was a stanch friend of Cleveland and stood by him through thick and thin. Mr. Gray’s pet ambition was to be appoint- ed to the supreme bench, but although Mr. Cleveland had two chances to give him the position he coveted, he allowed both chances to slip by. Which gave the skeptical a chance to reflect upon friendship and to quote, “Put not your trust in princes.” Senator Morgan is another who, al- though a strong Democrat, is known to vote, regardless of politics, for a meas- ure on its true worth and according to his convictions. ‘We have had Mark Hanna's photo- graphs, his manners, his ideas, his as- pirations and in fact Hanna from every point of view. But Mr. Hanna was taken from an entirely new stand- point one evening this winter when he went to make an informal call on a well-known diplomat and his wife. To the Japanese servant who opened the door he said: just say it's Hanna.” And the Japanese sought his master and mistress in their sitting room and bowing low said, “Hanna.” “Who is it?” asked the mistress. “Just Hanna,” was the reply. “Hanna,” repeated his mistress, run- ning over the maids of her friends in | her mind. “Hannah? Oh well, tell her to send up her message,” she added, going back to an interesting novel. It was some moments later that the butler returned and with his usual im- perturbable expression and respectful bow said, “Mark Hanna.” Mr. Hanna's bright bead-like . eyes sparkle with amusement when he tells this tale of mistaken identity. The newly appointed Senator from Indiana, Mr. Fairbanks, lives in a pretty house formerly “occupied by Chief Justice Fuller. He has a beauti- ful wife, a blonde, whose bright spark- ling face is full of animated, -ever- changing expression. Mrs.” Fairbanks has the charming fachlty of mgking every one feel thoroughly at home, and her hospitality is whple souled . and sincere. ¥ Thursday is the Serftorial reception day, and as everybody is privileged to call -on the Senators’ wives this means that the handsome houses at least are D BUT “I forgot my card, | ocoo0o00O0 thronged with sight seers. Mrs. Lodge of Massachusetts, Mrs. Elkins of West | Virginia, Mrs. Wetmore of Rhode Isl- and and Mrs. Hale of Maine are con- sidered socially at the head of the Sen- ate. Mrs. Elkins was Miss Hattie Davis of Washington. She is a pretty woman, years younger than her hus- band. She dresses well, entertains, ex- tensively and is very popular. Mrs. Elkins and Mrs. Hale occupy two of | the handsomest houses in Washington. | Mrs. Hale, however, doc not entertain, having been an invalid for the past few years. Mr. Hale is the only -Re- publican Senator who has stood up for Spain right along. Mme. Dupuy de Lome has been given the credit of | having cleverly talked him over to her country’s cause. Now that her influ- ence is removed it is thought that Mr. Hale's loyalty may waver. The woman most sought after in ‘Washington to-day is probably Mrs. Cushman Davis. Mr. Davis béing the chairman of the Committee on Foreign Affairs, great pressure is brought to bear on his wife to induce her to in- fluence her husband against war. Mrs. Davis is a tall, large woman with a commanding presence. She is dark and has a rich color, which makes her black eyes seem even brighter. The Davises are usually invited to the diplomatic dinners at the White House, where Mrs. Davis looks even more stately and handsome in her rich ball gowns and | sparkling jewels. Among the most lavish entertain- | ments given in Washington were those | of the recent Senator from Ohio, Mr. | Brice. The Brices rented the well- | known Corcoran mansion, for which they paid $10,000 a year, and at one of | their musicales Mme. Melba was en- gaged to sing at a fabulous price. The atmosphere of the Senate, pre- sided over by Vice-President Hobart, being dignified and sedate impresses one so thoroughly with its sober, re- liable, steady aspect that it is im- possible to imagine even its most im- petuous member rising in his wrath against another of opposite convictions to hurl at his mistaken head the near- | est missile calculated to demolish his | inferior brain. This manner of airy | persifiage is relegated to the House, | but eloquence alone is the sole weapon | in use among the members of the great- | est “club” in America—the Senate. —_——————— Out of 226,000 farms in Denmark only 1900 are more than 250 acres in extent. The. medical department of the Queen’s household costs £2700 vearly, and comprises twenty-four persons. The telegraph messengers in populous French towns use bicycles for the dis- tribution of their telegrams. A full-grown black ostrich is seven feet high, and easily carries on its back, ‘with the speed of a horse, a man of average size. ‘Women ‘have an important place in | the English postal department. Of the total “of persons of all ranks of the service, pérmanent and occasional, em- ployed by the department throughout | the United Kingdom, nearly 21,000 are of the gentler sex.