The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 24, 1898, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 24, 1898. 27 The Call from New York. | of gorgeous plaid hoslel Such a thing a: flies inus girl the transformation SEADE She is now la X and atten- tions in g To do th s not Joc ire, girl justice, sh of the: perqu be willing A t ir , and 1 from the word go, will need he must nat , or else stripes | co ,rt of young creaturs, | that rival the rainbow. ttle of the old fash- pair of perfectly ain, patternless | about her, & |Stockings will be unknown among t ut el | girls of this year. This costume will bring with it respon- and the frou | sibilities of a novel sort. This loosely i e swish of skirts, arrayed damsel with no skirts to nc the fashionable summer girl of | up, nothing to impede her progress, a @ Lt tr it r's by mistake. 7 to depend upon A for the mountains Rontiplbagt house or hotel, that w » of the old time folds f the for the ke a man's 5 shirt whiteness eid up skirt; ted h trunk as she leaves to n in the elaborate s womern habe er “‘make will com- of the f: ibted, but sporting girl's hat shade and color be are almost precisely but the girls wi d or Roman bar like me 1 ‘wear them with that has many pl folds, and is, in effect, a scarf. Whi Alpines will 1k the lead in a girl's wardrobe this year, much interest ing taken in very ed th me in v soft however, girl,” th will be , an arra hat they B 1 t s, pale, deli- Pinks, i1l L cor being preferred. light browns fa- are to be worn “squashed > head, and secured, with two sts no_fashionabio gir! will York without at le 1 box The very swell shirt made by the-leading haberdashers golf stroke, scrambl Fomespurm OVERCOAT EXTRA BAGGY, the most popular | THE BUSINESS | cost, by the way, from $4 to $§ each. She will carry three 'of white duck, three of nderful patterns I ver and r the 1 flannel with gold but made plain ton: el of odd such as faslh eded. be a suf- She and 12 will e not rt o bet e made the v for shirt wa eck must go ff and precise as Is a man’s, her a very » size—wool being for this, though not wear wool little bow, prim ng and fashion- to be worn in ile, but neck men’'s will @, s of feminine ne netion with stock made precis really the only pri | Patterns and desigr for women are innume it may I 1t able. In a general the most strik- s will be the most nd should be bought, even P partly in the 1e girl who was s asif ze of color in neckties would 1 out of it this summer. )t are to go “'sporting” scarf- the new blanket pin, a huge affal t are made in the like< tennis rackets and so when it s the jacket of a n the skirt to that | n f jacket of red cloth rw t brass buttons. worn to the top boots, will of the tailor-made suits Jle tallor-made suits this the ie suit, neede taile worn, or th homespun, frequently homespun of a bright mottied mixture, the coat with | 't t the skirt rather closely cks and brown linen. 1_equipp for small country should have iy the duck silk bloomers, very full and reaching to the knee, under the linens and the tallor-made suits bloomers of black, dark blue or dark red alpaca and of blue or black wool. WOMAN'S WHRDROBE ) LUE serge has been so long a fa- vorite for street wear that it might [)) seem to be out of date, but it is to be used quite as much this spring and summer. Made in tight-fitting short jacket, with plain gored skirt, it is too skirts she “"THE LATEJT SCARF AND HOW! TO TIE IT. SOME OF THE LATEST THINGS IN MEN'S WEAR. I'neve | b 55 be of light brown or gray | x duck ekirts and | and | serviceable and useful to be discarded. In the East gray will be worn very much, but the shops here have few at- tractive accessories in gray. Blue whi] cord serge made in coat like the model, trimmed in fancy braid in black or blue, with the same trimming repeated on the skirt is a pretty novelty and very effec- tive. The coat lined with blue-gray taffeta, with a silk waist of the same material, makes a most satisfactory dress. One style of waist is made effective by small box plaits from shoulder to belt, both back and front. It is closed under the front plait. The stock and collar are made from two shades of green taffeta. Cut the ends for the bow of the darker shade and line with the light, using the light shade for the center knot. Make the belt th me, allowing the lining: to just show gbove and below. Make it long enough® to pass twice around the waist. and tuck in the end, fastening it with a fancy pin. There i a very pretty new linen for shirt waist. It is fine in quality and comes in stripes and plain at 50 cents a yard. Three and a half yards will be required. The fullness of the new waist comes In the shoulder rather than in-the neckband, as last year. The organdies make dainty shirt walists, as does also white dotted | swiss, which wears better. In San Francisco cloth waists made | nite like the cotton waists are more com- ortable than the 1hinner ones. Cloth will be worn quite as much as the silk, and wears better in the office. Waists are so easily made and So Inexpensive there can be no excuse for a Woman who wears old “best dress’ waist in an office. No em- ployer likes to see an untidy woman in his office. He may never betray the fact that he notices such things, but he does just ;he same, and appearances count with im, too. & | The English walking hat, with high bell- | shaped crown, trimmed in long drooping | quills, will vié with the plain parlor hat, | and to some women IS more becoming. In gloves the newest ones come with stitching the same shade as the glove. any women make it a practice to wear always the same shade of glove. As one and a fashion which promises to be un- becoming is doomed at its birth. BRIGHT COLORS FOR “BEST DRESSED MEN.” RIGHT colors and plenty of them, unique and original combinations of tints and designs, will char- acterize the gear of every well- dressed man this summer and spring. It is to be a “gay clothes” year in a remarkable degree. the novelties are designed for the young- er men of swelldlom and the gorgeous raiment will be worn, in the main, by them, there are yet temptations in the way of garments and sundries put forth for the older citizen of the fashionable sets that he will hardly be able to resist. York’s mankind that takes a pride in keeping up with the fresh mandates of tailors and display in a week or two some fantasies of dress that will seem odd and novel. Many of fashion’s kinks this spring are strange and radical. You should wear a green flannel out- ing suit, for example, if you would keep well up to the mode of the day as it will be when the first hot weather comes, a green flannel with' a tiny white stripe in it, while the popular country hat this shooting hat, a soft felt that is left high in the crown and is never creased, with a feather, or, what is still better form, what is known as a “brush” stuck in his band. 1t is in shirts, hose, handkerchiefs and neckgear, however, that fashion—and the very best fashion, mind—is running riot with itself. Pinks, blues, greens and who dresses in dark colors adopts a black, another a gray, another a tan. Either of the latter will harmonize with any gown; another favorite is very light or white. These latter some consider more economi- cal, as they clean so readily. It can be done at hcme by washing ‘on the hand with a good toilet soap and milk. Be careful not to make the glove wet, and rub it quite dry on the hand with a | s can be so little worn here | for themselves, how- | pretty they may be, but the wash | 'will be found very Serviceable. new material, crispine, at 50 | vard, which makes up very pret- | 1 without lining will laundry nice- . Wwith a short jacket ending in a = 1 belt, to be worn over a shirt walst, it will be found comfortable and neat for the warm dusty w THE BACHELOR GIRL AND HER PAJAMAS H12 girl bachelor is leaving the im- print of her strong personality on every article of wearing apparel be- longing to her sex. She has revo- lutionized the fashion of neck dressing, and though strenuous efforts have been made by the manufacturers to introduce pretty chiffon and tulle fancies for this purpose, the mannish collar and cravat were never so much to the fore as they are to-day. Not content with remodeling the out- side costume of her sisters, her cousins and her aunts, she now steps in and, in the superior arrogance of her position of independence of thought and action, she gays to them: “You must wear pajamas. They are more comfortable, and to-day we are all for comfort, and not for fur- belows.” The edict having gone forth, we find on the counters and shelves of one of our department stores a full and varied stock of women's pajamas. They are slowly but surely gaining headway, and the woman whose heart yearns for the filmy lace, embroidery and dainty beribboned robes de nuit of the past, is ashamed to follow this essentlally feminine longing and reluctantly turns to the pajama counter. The swellest night dress is, as we all know, an etaborate affair, full and long and clinging about one in classic folds, | and oh! so essentially womanly and be- coming. It is dainty and attractive, but wofully in the way of the girl bachelor, who has to jump out of bed to close her | windows, climb on chairs and tables to | put out her lights, and the hundred and | one other things which a woman, wheth- er she be a girl bachelor or a lovesick old time maiden, always leaves until the last moment before retiring. Therefore she will have none of them, and having heard from her brother just how comfortable and not at all in the way the pajamas are, she has decided to adopt, and by dint of repeated requests | for them in the stores she has succeeded in bringing the dealer to a realization of the necessity of keeping these articies in stock. So now they can be had for the asking, The fashionable up-to-date pajamas are not bad to look upon, and it is stated that they are by no means unbecoming to the | fair wearers. They are made of wash silks in dainty colors and also of thin | madras and cheviot. The waists of some | of them are finished with silk cord, while others are fastened with ribbons and have lace trimmed collars. Those who have worn them say they are far cooler in summer and warmer in winter than any other style of sieep- ing garment. DBy their advocates it is predicted that they are here to stay; their opponents prophesy that they will be short-lived id their popularity. The dealers do not look for an extended sale and demand for them; they say that, like the divided skirt, they will die a natural death in a very short time, for there is nothing dearer to the dainty woman's heart than her becoming lace frilled night gown—nothing mote becoming to a young B old face than a pretty night dress, Women, say what you may, strong- minded or old fashioned, are all vain, /—‘NYOFT OFN\NMAN /\ /{\(@ yellows, all of pale tints, abound, and are the best of form. The color of the year, though, is heliotrope, used in bars and ‘irregular checks for shirts, and to mark the pattern on a ground of dead black, in neckties and hose. 2 The “best-dressed men,” as the phrase goes, seem to increase in number in New York each twelvemonth. This is the opinion of experts. There {s now no young man who could lay claim to the tle of being the very -dressed man. Where there was one me years ago there are now half a dozen who rank equally ~ in_ this regard. thought is being given to clothes on the Eml'l of the average young men of the five of much higher. Probably the HATS Y SHAPEY best dressed in New York to-day are J. J r Gebhard, R. T. Lee Tailer, }reaerick uota E:xgene de \\'illson Jr., V. G. Hall an 010, hirts this spring show some startling asnerns and gn(s. That which fashion E[\,s set its especial mark of approval on is a_pattern of thin bars or color, three bands composed of five of these bu{s running up and down and six bands ss. Thus a sul :figews eighteen small patches of check V! he five bars cross five other bars x‘:thg‘lrgeh{ anglés to them. The bars are so ‘While the most of | Thus every one of that portion of New | haberdashers will begin to | vear is the dark green Prince of Wales | More careful | ay, it is said, and the average standard | Some men have devised a very clever way of accomplishing this. When the; have adjusted the loop, just before the are ready to fold ..e ng ends over and put the pin into place, they slip a folded sock into the loop. thus buiging that part of the scarf out appreciably. When the ggd: are folded over the sock cannot be en. The favored scarf patterns will be a figured heliotrope or purpie stripe on a black ground, a green stripe on a black ground that is touched with a faint red, a dark blue ground with a black stripe in it, and the very new and curious viadier or . vertical stripes of black on a blue ground. For men who want very gorgeous colors there is a brilliant green | silk patterned in a silver white dlamond, and a no less gay red with a yellow dia- mond. For field wear the latest is an Indian kerchief of red with curious white figures in it. Scarfpins are athletic this spring. Tal- Ivho horns, French horns, polo crooks, golf sticks and racquets. all in miniature perfection and of gold, are the proper thing. For Sundays these are not cor- rect, and the wise man wears a pearl or a little golden bau. The most fashionable of all, though, and that which will b most worn, is a blanket pin of gold, pre- cisely like that used in the stable, about two inches long. | _Of a greater vogue than ever are stocks. | The stock itself is invariably of white duck. Nowadays it should not be starched stiffly. The newest has a piec of celluloid that is slipped in on the in- | side to keep it stiff. The necktie or scarf | appended to it is most usually of some pattern of red, for the stock’s most fre- | quent use is on the golf field. There are | many other varieties of stocks, however. It is one of the newest fashions of the jday for a girl to make her best young man stocks of her gingham gown pat. | terns, that he may have neckwear corre lspondlng to all her prettiest summer dresses. Stocks of crépon—that is, the neckwear part of them of crepon—are exceedingly popular as well, and much | in_the mode. | " Boots are little changed, the difference | being in still more rounded toes and big. | ger soles. Gayly plaided handkerchiefs | with no sign of white are abroad in the | land. | “As regards hats, the top hat has very | little roll or shaping, the derby is much flatter in_the crown and _very much | smaller. Small lightweight hats, even in | straws, are the order of the scason. Knox | says that the green Prince of Wales wil | be the Fat of the vear for out of town, | though *he demand for it has hardly set |in as yet. | The cloth in fashion is natural home- | spun, rough hand-made homespun, the top coat with a velvet collar and double- | breasted lapels. It is a_single-breasted | coat, and has narrow turned up cuffs | bound with velvet. It is cut very full. To be fully in the fashion you should have a morning coat that is a long-waist- ed cutaway with a broad back and a very full straight-cut front with flaps at the side. The walst line is exceedingly low, and will make this coat a marked one. The pockets are cut below the waist seam Waistcoats are more ever, the patter more few of these freaks of ember. A A. popu | gorgeous than pronounced. A hion 1t is well favorite color will v frock coat is very tailed, and of almost an elephant gray color.” Broken checks will be much seen. The new waistcoat for morning wear is cut exceedingly high, shows very little shirt front and is colorle: A new country wear material is of blue flannel | with a white stripe in the goods. | , Golf waistcoats have become an esse: tial part of a fashio le man's wardrob The finest are sleeved. OPINION OF ‘WAITED in the pleasant parlor of the Girls’ Fraternity for the presi- dent of the Associated Women Stu- dents to appear. A table with some | dainty tea things stood invitingly by, delightfully suggestive-of feminine taste the world over. The president, Miss Marion Whipple of Los Angeles, is a typical college wo- man, tall, self-possessed, with an intel- |lectual face. She grasped my idea in- stantly and settled back luxuriously in | her chair, the better to discuss the col- | lege-bred man. | “The college men of Berkeley seem | rather young to me, as I compare them I think it is because we are allowed 1(0 enter with less required work to our credit. | with the Eastern college men I know. | As to their attractiveness? | rt front of this sort 1 ; - ({ STOTRE Sthe fedB9a1nN | Certainly the environments are the | | most favorable for proper development, | the environments of college life, but | everything depends on the man. With- | out the right material to act on, the environment can do nothing, of course. “One always wonders why some men ever come to college. I think men who never go to college sometimes are quite as attractive as the college-bred men, but it means more when they are. They deserve more credit for what they have taken on of polish. “How do I regard the Berkeley men from the social standpoint? They fall into two classes—one class, the small minority, who are discourteous and rude, I will not discuss. Their faults are due most likely to wrong home | teous, helpful men, I will discuss. They lightful at parties. Of course there are some who have been spéiled, but one expects that. Then they are en- thusiastic over athletics and the true college woman likes that—she is en- thusiastic herself.” ‘““Are not Berkeley men of the opinion that the really nice, high-bred sort of girl doesn’t take a college course?” “Oh, no indeed! That {5 a tradition that has been handed down, but it is pretty well exploded now. They like us—that is, collectively. We are en- tirely welcome here.” “But is it not true that in extending invitations to hops they give the prefer- ence to the young society ladies of Oak- land and San Francisco?” Miss Whipple laughed. “That is an- gt}\@ , other tradition. I have always thought they invite the girls they know best. The college etiquette is very rigid here and acquaintances a not easily made. When the college boys get up a hop training; but the other class, the cour- | are thoughtful of little things, and de- | COLLKGE WOMEN'S QOLLEGE [MEN. throng smiled intelligently at these words. “They are "discussing one of the professors now. There are certain | characteristics by which each one is known.” 3 A young woman with soft brown hair and brown eyes sat with me in a corner. She is a graduate student and very bright. “Do college women prefer college- bred men?” she repeated. “Yes, on the whole I think they do. The facts stand something like this. The college woman of to-day is not the be-specta- | cled blue-stocking of a former genera- | tion. Many years of widening opportu- | nities have come to accustom her to her »ges and to emancipate her from | the freakishness of which in her social isolation she used to be guilty. Is this the line of treatment you wish me to follow? ‘“Well, then, it seems to me that in- tellectually she stands on common ground with man. She doesn’t forget as she used to that spiritually she is different from man—that there is the feminine and the masculine in human nature—that neither is complete with- out the other, that both are needed for truest development. Her demands are high-moral purity, intellectual insight, and the strength to do and dare. Men must have these qualities in order to | win her respect.” “Are not these basal qualities which one might expect in all men?” “Possibly. The college woman would be narrow indeed in her culture if she | despised sterling worth in a man be- cause he had not had her own superior advantages. But in general society, how many that are not college-bred have these qualities! Political jugglery, the narrow horizon of the businéss | world, and a tendency to plod along in ruts is the common order. “But the college man? Well, he has been in contact with great minds—he has had access to all the wisdom of the ages for a time at least—that is, if he wished for success. And according to evolution, he can never go back to just where he was before; there has been infused into his nature a spiritual es- | sence. | “‘As to the comradeship of life? The | college woman can afford to wait and | judge. She knows that life will be as | she makes it; but as Ella Wheeler Wil- cox says, she will make it according to the kind of man whose love she ac- cepts. And I believe I am right in thinking that she more often trusts the man who has had the same training as herself, and the same brocad outlook | upon life' and {ts possibilities.” A bell rang and the graduate girl hure ried away to a class. Said the senior girl “Other things being equal, yes, in her turn: But narrow that the checks are not large and | 1y o " nt the girls to come that they | unfortunately strong meat isnot meant make possible, gaou-sized open SPROCS, O | know well, and those who have bee | for babes, And many & vouth goes to e I her exagserated nor yet very | brought up in San Francisco and Oak- | college with a mental apparatus un- “quiet.” It is to be worn with a white | land naturally ‘nvite young ladies from | adapted to assimilate the virile food he collar, but with cuffs of its °W“~h'11"h° those places—those at whose homes| must t-ke in there. Then he is spoiled shops’ are making them ‘lln mg‘“}“g“mf,flg; they have been entertained most|for practical purposes and all other 12 e shitt tl)}::tesieéx‘;;’sugo rule. The pini | likely. purposes, social included. Unfortu- here is very nearly a red, and a green of T think on the whole their standard | nately, again, the world does not dis- ale tone is also permissible. i 'wo other varieties of shirts that are novel are those that have their stripes foross, one with rows of bangs. about half an inch wide and an inch apart, the other with a cluster of three much nar- rower bands, then a space of white of a width of an inch, another -cluster of bands, the same separation, and so on down., These patterns are yet in_ the same colors as those mentioned above. Yet another style indorsed by fashion bas bosoms of combination colorings in very pale reds and yellows, a mild, faint, unobtrusive plaid, much like I patterns. Shirts of these types cost $¢ 50 jece. M}t is not by any manner of means the fashion to match the colored shirt with the necktie that is worn. The neckgear in its general colors should simply be in harmony with the shirt. The coming necktie for afternoon is larger than ever before, fully a third as large again. It is tied in much the same Ascot or puff fashion, only an effort should be made to hdve it appear rounder and puffier than formerly. gingham | of womanhood is high. The sentimental, foolish girl is rot encoura=ed here. If ever she comes here by mistake the hard work or the lack of aj.reciation on the part of the masculine side of the uniyersity drives her away again. Col- lege enragements rarely occur—it is different from Stanford in that re- spect.” Very different from the quiet parlor of the girls’ fraternity h use was the busy waiting-room at North Hall. Co- eds were everywhere and the air was full of the hum o’ these literary bees. The two rather gloomy waiting-rooms are the exclusie property of the uni- versity girls. Hc~e they tell their se- crets, prepare their lessons and eat their lunches. g Above the hum of voices floated the words: “He is the most out and out woman hater I ever saw. Of course you know about—" criminate in this matter. And a man's ability to turn a few glib compliments, to dance a deux temps gracefully and to insinuate himself into the graces of the chaperon, is considered all that is essential to his social outfit; this, how- ever, is the proprium of many callow fledgings, outside of college circles. “No, this is hardly the type to at- tract the college-bred woman. “On the other hand, if the college wo- man is herself & weakling mentally, and sees with distorted vision nothing but a desert of books over which she must eagerly nress to that mirage on the harizon, a career with a capital C, she is apt to lose sight of the vital things abeut her and become that crea- ture mén most dread, the rampant blue-stocking. Then it is scarcely a question as to whether the college man will attract this particular woman—he may, be he callow fledgling or not—but My guide through this maddening ‘he will have none of her.