The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 20, 1898, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MARCH 20, 1898. * : T 3 D F '98 : * * = = B * ® % ¥ ¥R B L T L L T T T T SR S S R R L 2 S S bRl A Special from New York to The Call. | them. Often times these vests give the Though this very severe tailor-made |gray velvet hat, trimmed in harmonizing HE spring girl of '98 has an en- | one touch of bright color to an otherwise | young person of the spring of 1598 has | shades of green, tan, Yellow and fancy- tirely new shape. somber costume. Plaid vests and those | apparently .abanuoned petticoats for | colored liberty silks without wings or H Sior i . | in bright scarlet are much in demand. street wear she shows just the same er tailor-made gown Is cut to | 1, DIIERL searlet are much i demitt ) | Sld-time fondness for flufty skirts when | feathers. Bhow every curve of her figure. {4573 "oq v "o frair made either of Dblaid silk | dressing for the house. There is an end- Two pairs of gray E!oves.tn::de to or- She has given up fOWIng | or sifk in baght Homan stripes. And it | less variety of silk petticoats, and every | der, are expected to last out the dress. draperies | has swinging from its slender natural |one of them shows plainly the effect of | Pockets in the new tight skirts are a ! the tight-fitting cloth skirt. For all of | aifficulty, for the plaits come together in Full skirts and puffed sleeves are now | things of the past. The slender woman.is in despair. It is| the plump girl who is in fashion. ‘ Padding has become an art. Figures are made to order to show to advantage | the gown, as well as gowns are made to fit the figure. The new skirt of the tailor-made gown is conspicuous. It bears a striking re- | semblance to the pull-back skirt worn | about fifteen years ago.’ It requires prac- | tice to walk with grace and ease when | wearing it. It is fitted this year to the | re with the same care as the bodice. | must fit the hips without the sugges- on of a wrinkle, and must really cling to the figuge until the knees are reached it aims to be in the very latest fashion. most elaborately trimmed, and frequent- is finished with a small accordion- plaited ruffie. For frequently this skirt lining takes the place of a siik petticoat. The tailor-made girl cannot wear petti- coats it _she wishes to be strictly up to date this year. Petticoats tend to hide the symmetry of the figure, and &he wishes to reveal it. With her new tailor gown the spring girl wears—what do you think?—bloom- ers. But not the baggy bloomers of the bicycle girl. Oh, dear no; but almost tight-fitting black satin bloomers. And for comfort in walking there is nothing in the world to equal them. The young person who cannot afford to have her bloomers made of black satin may have them of French flannel, light- weight serge, or brilliantine. But in one thing this year she cannot afford to be economical if she hopes to be considered . She must no longer silk for her skirt lin- | tles is no longer the | It has become too common. The | riced taffetas and the soft silks, | have a delightful swishabout them, | suggestion of rustling, are now the | r thing for linings. | f course it isn’t every girl who will | care to adopt this new and startling | on of tie tight-fitting skirt, but no | tter how she may change it to suit own particular views she will make | atal mistake if she does not see that skirt fits tightly across her hips and | at teast for a few inches below them. To carry out the fashionable figure the | corsets are now made with the bust rewhat higher than it was six months | But the straight front is still in | fc the sleeve It must be clinging, like the rest of the costume. It must fit to show perfectly the shape of the arm. s a substitute for the full sleeve with » generous puff it is a total failure. Not en the women with well-developed, cautiful arms look upon it with favo i as for the thin-armed sisterhood, v weep with one accord at even the | 1ght of it. The good old puffed sleeve surely died hard | es the new sl t extremel long, ¢ reac ng tight fit- mewhat un- pointed puff not over the Knuckles. e new coat, which much ’ Jonger the new figure ap- her new tailor- | wear a hat tilted ad. Of course, this t, and it must be of straw The fa- tu at the trimmed with ribbon loops to effect. In many of the new trimming appears to be The back view of a rkable and effective number of novelties dis- ops fust now o tempt the made : vests in plent Jue and others in ere are the ribbed < ts Below the knees the skirt flares a trifle that walking may be made a ing of this that ging effect is The separately from the skirt. . it is attached to it only at the fitted as carefully over as the skirt proper. The bot- the lining of the skirt is often young person who can afford ORCR R & @ ' SONS OF RICH MEN WHO WORK. PPPPPPOPOVDPVPIOPVODOEOPO00000P0000000000000 of ALL street is full rich men—bankers or brokers or the owners of great rallroads —who are giving their sons a college education and then putting them to work. Although | every mnow and then you hear though every now and then you hear some prophet of ill declare that pres- ent condit eration of wealthy idlers and pluto- non-produc , even a casual in- | tion of the matter emphatically pates the id8a. 1 asked Chauncey M. Depew recently what he thought of the necessity of ed- ing rich men’s sons to business | ns tend to nurture a gen-“ | life. “There is only one side to that ques- tion,” said Mr. Depew. “Every man should educate his son to a business or a profession, if he is fitted for either. There s where a boy is mnot | mentally equipped for business life. I| know a young man, the son of a| wealthy father, who has been years in the same class at school. I} know another who has been in the| hands of a private instructor for three rears and his tutor tells me he shows no | nental grasp. When should the young man begin | 1 business career? When he has | 1ad a good college =ducation. Com- modore Vanderbilt did not believe in giving his son more than an academic | fducation. That son gave his boys the same kind of an education; but the ‘ourth generation is going to college. Toung Cornelius Vanderbilt graduated m Yale. He is now taking a post duate course in marine engineering four | *he: Dr. ew days ago: “Do you know that only George F. Shrady said to me a per cent of the men who succeed in w York are ‘to the manner born'? ghty-five per cent are from smaller vns or from the country. “These men me to the eity with all the energy and vigor gained in outdoor life and h the determination to conquer for- ine.” - Dr. Shrady does not consider this an rvidence that rich men’s sons have not &n equal chance to success if they have ambition, however, and he says that @ t every rich man he knows is ging his sons up to work. and no play makes Jack a dull * said the son of a very rich man ) his father. “Yes, and all play and work makes Jack a blanked fool,” 8 the father in reply, according to Dr. Shrady. Perhaps the most striking instance in Wall street of rich men bred to work in the firm of Blair & Co., where e generations are represented, two hem' actively. John 1. Blair, the d of the family, is 96 years old. He spends most of his time at his home in Blairstown, N. J. He gave his son, De Witt C. Blair, a thorough educa- ‘ion and then put him at work in Wall W:ircet. When De Witt's son, C. L. Dlair, had graduateéd, like his father, at Princeton, he was put in the office to learn the busineg= He is now a part- ner at 30, and hé wee his father are 1= steadily attentive to business as though they were not the heirs of one of the richest men in the United States. john D. Rockefeller and Willlam POPPPPOOCOOOOOQ | ter. wood handle a tiny purse also made of gay silk. This purse is only large enough for car fare, but in these days when pockets are not always where they can be reached most easil the umbrella is worth buying just for the convenience of the purse if nothing more. There is no use in denying it—the most up-to-date girls are buying their stock- ings to match their umbrellas. Think of it! If you -on’'t happen to believe it is true, the clerks at the umbrella and stocking counters have been comparing notes, and they can certify to the abso- lute truth of this statement. The newest stockings are all bright in coloring. Plaids are the favorites and B L s s T T T T T S e A 2 2 2 A A S A AR RS St b B the new silk skirts are made to fit | fectly over the hips, and but little | ness is visible until the knees are reached, | and then invariably a circular flounce ap- pears. This is generally lace trimmed, and is often so arranged that it may be ripped from the skirt and cleaned with but little trouble. £ * s . HIS spring’s fashions will make the lining separate from the skirt. From experience & skirt so made will not keep in shape nearly as long a8 when both lining and cloth are \‘ i U —— A PLAID CLOTH. HER VEST OF many exquisite color combinations are seeen. There are also many Roman striped stockings and others i novel ribbon gffect. Elaborately ered insteps are so much in fashion. The sale of silk stockings has greatly in- creased within the last year. Now even the bicycle stocking is a silken affair, and has lost all its clumsines In the matter. of glo tailor-made girl copies h. , the strictly brother’s. But st a bit frivolous spring the new d fastenings. color im- jeweled by means of a fine silken cord. The gloves in the different shades of tan, with violet stitching and bits of moc the studs, are unusually pretty. For dress occasions there are exquisite silvery gray gloves with turquoise studs and sii- ver stitching she is sure to buy glo: with the These gloves come agjnable and have ev imitation studs, which are fastened together Ty ©o oo Rockefeller, the Standard Oil million- aires, are believers in the plan of edu- cating rich men’s sons to work. John D. Rockefeller Jr. is the only son of John D. -Rockefeller and heir to $200,- 000,000. He is about 2 is at work in his father’s office, where he draws a small salary and saves part of it, just as his father did when he was a clerk in a business office in Cleveland. William G. Rockefeller, his cousin, who is 28 years old, has been in the employ of the Standard Oil Company for several years. Both the Rockefellers are steady, industrious young men, and either of them could find employment very easily if thrown upon his own resources. H A comparatively new figure in Wall street is George Crocker, son of the bonanza millionaire. Few of the men who made such quick fortunes in the | gold fields saw far enough ahead to Tealize the necessity of making their chidren bread winners. Many of their sons became dissipated, like young Fair. Some of them have fallen into business life because they needed oc- cupation. Mr. Crocker is one of the lat- He says that the biggest obstacle he has had to surmount all his life is the fact that his father was a million- aire. “You will always live in the shadow of your father’s name,” said a million- aire friend of the elder Crocker to the young man one day. “It is .true,” said Mr. Crocker, “though no cne ever expressed it to me in that way before. Whatever I do I | am always my father’s son; I have no identity of my ow: George Westinghouse, the millionaire inventor and manufacturer, has a son who is too young as yet to think of the responsibilities of life; but if he shows a liking for the machine shop when he grows older Mr. Westinghouse will put him in a pair of overalls and set him at work. Mr. Westinghouse himself works at the bench in his private shop in Allegheny, where he develops his mechanical ideas. Washington is full of idle young men having rich fathers. Senator Stephen B. Elkins, who has been a very busy man all his life, has a son who is giv- ing his attention almost entirely to so- ciety. There are a great many young men like him, whose fathers have plenty of money, who are living for amusement. George Pullman’s sons were of this type, and they learned a severe lesson when their father prac- tically disinherited them because they lacked business ambition. They have undertaken to cultivate it now, and both of them are working for the Pull- man Car Company in Chicago. The stock yard millionaires are self-made men, and they believe in bringing up their sons to honest labor. Philip D. Armour has two boys. They left col- lege to take clerical positions in hteir father's office, and there they worked beside their father’s clerks, asking no favors and learning the business thor- oughly by experience. Both of them are now members of the firm, and there are no busier young men in Chicago. David R. Francis of St. Louis, for- mer Secretary of the Interior, believes in work for the rich man’s son. Mr, Francis has seven boys, one of whom graduated last year from Yale. Mr. Francis told me last summer that he was going to put the young man into a clericgl position in his office, and let him learn the business. Mr. Francis ~ | nature has made you for that style, all amethysts for | years old. He | | made together. Have it fitted as closely | and carefully as a bodice. Qf course, if right. A very good finish for the bottom is shown this spring—a brush braid. It cannot wear out, for it is woven like very long-pile veivet and in the shape of a cord. A gown intended for wearing in an office every day, rain or shine, is a me- dium-light shace of gray. The skirt is quite tight, having two ruffies on the un- der side of gray shot mohair, bound at the bottom with gray velvet. The coat | ends in a belt at ‘the waist; Blouse in front and tight, without seams in the back. The cloth collar and belt of the same gray cloth are covered at will by adjustable ribbons, which brighten the | dress. To wear with it a plain little POPOPPOPOP00O0L09P000 CRCRR XX | had some hesitancy about having his =on go into the grain trade because of | the uncertainties of its speculative side, but he had no hesitancy about making of him a business man and not an idler. A great many public men have their sons holding office under them at Wash- ington, but mcst of these are poor men to whom the second government salary | is an object. Senator Hanna's son is not one of these. He was trained to a business life. Vice-President Hobart's | boy will be a lawyer, like his father. Ex-Senator Henderson of Missouri had | his son study law after he had com- | | pleted the collegiate course at Harvard, | | and he is ready to earn a living if nec- | | essary, though he has not gone into | | practice very actively yet. | On the other hand, Senator Hale, who | married the wealthy Miss Chandler, has | had his oldest son, Chandler Hale, | | made secretary of legation at Rome; | and as diplomacy is not a profession with us, his can hardly be called a se- rious calling. Ex-Senator Brice did not | bring his son up to business life, but the son has gone into politics in New York lately, and promises to be an ac- tive if not a useful figure in life. His father began his career as a school teacher, and knows the value of labor. General Russell A. Alger, Secretary of War, says it is a great misfortune | for a boy to have a rich father who will | not teach him to worl HOW MRS. SOUTHWORTH BEGAN HER CAREER. P IN Sonoma County lives an in- teresting old lady of 70, who tells the following story of the manner in which Mrs. E. D. E. N. South- worth, whose works, though not of the highest order, have perhaps en- Joyed a wider circulation than those of almost any other American author, first made her appearance before the public in literature. The family of Mrs. Southworth’s hus- band were prominent people of the lit- tle mining town of Plattville, Wis., which at the time of her marriage was but a Territory, and where the narra- tor of the story then resided. The fam- ily were also religiously inclined, and when the rumor went abroad that the wife of the favorite son and brother had been an actress—in those days re- garded by people of their class as a so- cial pariah—they not only declined re- ceiving her as one of the family, but even insisted that young Southworth should leave the village and not further disgrace them by flaunting in their very faces his devotion to his actress wife. i« He had friends, however, in the vil- lage who did not approve of the stand taken by his immediate family, and those friends, partly through good will to the young man, and partly through anticipated ‘enjoyment of his pompous relatives’ discomfort, advanced money to start him in business in a small way, and this he invested in a tinner's shop, to the horror and disgust of his peoplef The young couple took up their resi- dence in a miner’s log cabin containing e a fan at the top, leaving no place for the insertion of a pocket. A nun’s pocket, however, can be used, and for the woman who is lost without a pocket this will be a blessing. A double square of cambric about 14 by 6 is sewn securely to a belt to be worn around the waist under the corset. A reticule in the pocket opening sufficiently large to admit the hand comfortably is faced securely. This pocket is worn so that it can be reached through an open- ing left in the back of the skirt and pre. vents dragging. In purchasing the new gay colored hosiery beware of the poisonous dyes. 08 \m i W)y \ N If you find any green wears off or any yellow, remember that those colors are made by the use of arsenic and enough may be easily absorbed through the feet to cause poisoning. The feet perspire more or less and so become one of the most. susceptibie portions of the body. The short French corset is worn en- tirely, and for comfort far surpasses the old-fashioned long ones. Very good ones come for $§1. The summer saflor hat has a straight brim and a straight crown. If your nose is retrousse tius will accentuate it. Get a good hat of the straight style, take to a man's hatter’s and get him to put a curve in the crown and also in the brim. It will be much more becoming. If you can, wear the hat very well forward and just a bit to one side. To a sweet Ma- donna face this gives a most ludicrously rakish air, but wit. some faces it is most charming. Sty.es will be very trying to most women, but the stout ones will be happy and have full revenge for the wide skirts and short coats which have been worn so long. The small siceves will be a delight to stout ones, for being large already it was a torture in a crowd to have otner people quite “in the shadow of her sleeves.” The trimmings of every sort give the sloping shoulder effect and are infinitely more artistic than the late styles. § {J'/m R THE EASTER GIRL WILL DRESS LIKE THIS. SHE TRAVELS WITH A COURIER VALET NOTION OF AN AMERICAN GIRL WHO WANTS A MAN TO LOOK AFTER HER LUGGAGE AND MAKE HIM- SELF GENERALLY USEFUL. ISS L. B. FREEMAN, a young American woman, now stay- ing at the Cambridge Hotel, in New York, has brought to this country with her a man servant whom she she calls a courier - yalet, and who is part of her establishment in Paris, where she makes her home. The young fellow is a sturdy German boy, just learning to speak English, and a being who can do more things than a juggler and has more of the virtues one room, and did their cooking over a great fireplace, as was the custom on the frontier in those primitive, early days. In time Mrs. Southworth became a great fayorite with the young people of the village, and her cabin was a re- sort for the school girls, who, attracted by her bright, winning manners and witty sayings, flocked about her and considered it a privilege to assist with or entirely take up her neglected house- hold duties for the sake of hearing her chatter; for, as a girl once remarked of her, ‘What Mrs. Southworth says never sounds like the remarks of any one else,” and great was their regret when the adverse influence of her hus- band’s relatives finally prevailed with him and circumstances made it neces- sary for her to leave the West. One of these then girlish admirers, who 1is still living, described the au- thoress’ habit of citting when alone be- fore the great, open fireplace, among the neglected pots and pans of the hearth and mechanically and inces- santly tapping her foot, as she medi- tated for hours. The open contempt with which her husband’s relatives treated her and her own apparent qulet submission, won for her the sympathy of the com- munity. Whether this spurred her on to ease her mind through the medium of a witty and pointed article, in which each member of the family appeared to great disadvantage, is not known, but such an article was penned by her. The husband of an aggressive sister- in-law, a Mr. Roundtree. was designat- ed by the non-disguising title of Mr. Longtree, and his little weaknesses were so vividly depicted that even wm‘wudt appellation he was easily rec- ognized. Another even more. vindictive rela- tive, the symmetry of whose nose was marred by a great wart, was given a name suggestive of this affliction and -also placed on file with those held up to the public eye as @ person of faults and foibles. Not one of the number who had mercilessly persecuted her was spared; yet the scoring was done in such an artistic way that the allu- sions seemed almost accidental, and gave no suggestion of malicious thrusts. The little town supported a weekly paper, but the editor would never have dared offend such powerful patrons as the Southworths’ relatives. He de- clined to publish it. A zealous friend to whom the effusion was shown liked it so much that on one of his trips to Illinois he offered it to another paper, and the article was gladly published. 1t so touched the public sense of hu- mor that it was copied far and near, and gave the indignant young wife a proper sense of her abilities. The ed- itor of the New York Ledger was so de- lighted with the skit that he promptly wrote to Mrs. Southworth and offered to pay her for a story. So the young wife started on her career as an au- thoress. It is doubtful if any of the widely read stories which she penned in after years brought her a feeling of greater satisfaction than this sketch of family | peculiarities, published in a little coun- try sheet. SELATSC T A coasting steamer was wrecked near Sydney. The captain tied life-lines to some pigs which former part of the cargo. These on being thrown over- board quickly swam ashore, taking the lines with them. Communication being thus established, every person on board ‘was rescued. of service than any article in the ad- vertising placards of the elevated train. Having this sort of a general all- around man of work has lifted a load of carking care from Miss Freeman's shoulders, who no longer has to go through the awful crisis of seeing her- self and a person in cap and flying rib- bons left in stations while trains pull out and porters gesticulate and the world turns generally upside down. The intricacies of a thousand and one things hitherto sacred to the “maid” have been undertaken by this amazing crea- ture of hers, until traveling his lost its horrors, and even luggage and pass- ports and duties have ceased to per- plex. Even that imperturbable man, the ho- tel clerk, regards this ‘refreshing change” as a boon to hotel clerks to worry. And assuredly you will want one of these new luxuries when you hear all the things this ‘“‘garcon’” can do—anything in fact from blacking a :13]0(( to buying a skein of embroidery ilk. Miss Freeman told' me some of her reasons for this new change of hers, somewhat reluctantly it must be ad- mitted, for she dislikes notoriety, and expressed the most genuine surprise that her practical plan should have been regarded as a freak or fad. “How did I come to have a man in- stead of the time honored maid?” said Miss Freeman. “That is easy enough told—he is a better servant—men make better ser- vants in the duties that this one has to meet than the best maids that ever were born. Why? Well, they—or rather, he—can buy my tickets, run my errands, announce my carriage at re- ceptions, and see me to and from the t:eater at night. No maid could do all this. “Why, not long ago while in Europe I was trying to make a train, and if it had not been for this man I would have lost it, for the porters and guards had finished their work and ‘All aboard!” was the word. My boy here j threw those trunks on and off we went. Noth- ing easier. Where is the maid who would have been even rational at such a point? They lose their heads, you know, and go to pieces at a — at the very time when you need them the most. As I said, if it had not been for that boy I should either have had to stay behind or have gone without my luggage. “When it comes to the comparative virtues of man and maid, do you not see how it is?” As for Miss Freeman, she can get along without a maid. “I can do up my own hair,” she said, and she looks as if she could do other things that would put the novel-read- ing, maid-ridden woman to shame. The pompadour of rather heavy, dark hair only adds to the independent spirit that shows out of the firm blue eyes, and one can understand just why Miss ! Freeman would prefer to adjust her awn coiffure—though ‘“men,” she re- marked, “always were the best hair- dressers.” I glance at the red-cheeked young foreigner who hands in a card just then, and the American servant sinks to the. dust in my estimation. But then it is Miss Freeman's estimation we want to hear about. Just so, and the “man maid,” with foreign politeness, bows himself out of her presence and she can resume. “That boy can do anything everheard of,” she continued; “black my boots, and button them if necessary. He runs thirty errands a day sometimes. Does wonders for me, and he begged me to bring him along, to see America. “He carries notes, announces the car- rlage, as I told you, and buys methings as I need them—small articles, of course. I told him I should hold him responsible for every sou piece—he is honesty itself, and I am the one to be pleased, after all, if they do call this a fad of mine. It is common sense, I say, and—oh, I forgot, he cleans my palettes and brushes—that is such miserable work for a painter to do for herself. “In Warsaw, Poland, in France and England they have valets,” said Miss Freeman, “and it is such a common thing that no one ever pays any atten- tion te it and no one ever éomments on it. It is queer how they do in this country—they will go over to France and go into all sorts of things a Frenchman never thinks of doing or seeing, and come back and tell how dreadful it all is over there—and then they never can take an innovation with composure”’— And then this “boy” of twenty or thereabouts appears and the possibili- ties of him as errand runner and care- taker cover him with a sort of nim- bus of glory, and the American woman’s trials with her so-called ser- vants come to mind. The American woman generally runs her own errands, does her own little odd pieces of work, and yet calls herself “advanced.” “Oh, but I have not told his chief virtue,” added this independent woman, hastily. “He can mend and sew very well—little things of course—but saves me a great deal of trouble.” And every bachelor girl in the land is expected to promptly faint at this last alluring summing up of this va- let's qualities—every muddy skirted one, especially—and when they “come to” they are supposed to be seized in the instant with undying envy, which they have probably not altogether out- grown along with their shuffing off the “yoke” in other respects. Miss Freeman is only visiting her native land—she was born in New York City—and is soon to return to Paris and her work there. THE WORLD'S GOLD OUTPUT. The recently published figures prepared by the Director of the Mint, showing the world’s recent output of gold, are worth studying. It Is estimated that the total gold product of all countries for the year 1896 was $205,000,000. For the year 1897 it is predicted that the agflegflte output will be $240,000,000. and the opinion is ventured that three years hence the annual production will have increased to $300, 000. That would mean a more than doubling of the year- ly production of gold within a period of SHE 'WILL WEAR BLOOMERS INSTEAD OF throughout the land, should it become a custom in this country. It is an innovation so brand, brand new, that Miss Freeman's friends, after their first surprise had worn off, came to regard it as another originality of this delightful woman, and to take it along with her other matter-of-fact traits. It is the very first “man ser- vant” in a like capacity that ever came to America, or ever was found in this habitat, though in France and England the custom of having such a member of your suite is not only generally ac- cepted and uncommented upon, but it is considered a necessity. “And why not?” says Miss Freeman herself, in her own inimitable, honest inquiry. The "‘why not” in most cases might be largely a question of finances, about which this young woman does not have PETTICOATS. ten years—an economic fact of profound significance, bearing directly upon the question of the world’s currency. Mr. Preston, whose figures ‘we have been quoting, makes the following esti- mate of the comparative output of the fnld fields of seven different countries for the last year and this year. United States Australia .. The United States still leads, although South Africa and Australia follow close- ly after. The altered position of Can- ada is due of course to the production of the Klon £