The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 20, 1898, Page 25

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 20, 1898. o~ "‘!; 19 A= e 243 5 K Y R G T e T e e = e ?3«‘3:}‘:& 2:..!3-30;3‘(‘33‘.’:“‘: A i_. A o TP TS K SRS Tp_gcblul‘: Camille a.yr\gi_bler\fl ne lack chenille edged trellis pattern. around the skirt and the two rows point s the walst. A lar trimm nents the ski i the bottom corsage is blous f and tight in the back nted with flow 5 :, and just at gn in the same m: 1 of chevron. The up- back rnamented collar, also embroid at the sides with blas This collar is con- 1oulder and forms point t in front; vle as the rest ng over a front of f the » square ulder to the walst. rather narrow, being composed of a gold | band ornamented with three designs in gold and precious stones, and ening in | front with a s buckle. toque | hat of white velvet ped like a turban, | completes the costum This hat The neck | | hair behind. hllog s X M AL arabe the ba round > embroidered with fine , similar to those on The waistband nd mmed on the right side with two black athers, one upright, the other running | ilong the brim and drooping over the | In the center in front is a buckle. stra: | tened by a de. brick red woolen satin, woven in the material. tablishment is of with black striy The skirt Is extremely tight around the body and touches the ground. It is made with one breadth on the cross, so that the | stripes form - chevr The _skirt Is trimmed all round with black velvet ribbon, the same width as the stripes, with which they alternate. There are elght rows just beneath the waist, and five rows about hall way down. In_the center, In front, over the velvet trimming, s a deslgn in passcmenterie, embroidered n jet. The corsage is composed of a decollete blouse, cut round at the neck, and orna- mented all over with bands of velvet on the cross, with the chevron points on the ST COSTum A morning dress made at the same es- Redferr), f 7 BEAUTI ming is of peach-colored velvet, i3 simp- ly draped, and covered with black lace. 9 waistband is of black velvet, cut on the cross, and fastens in the center in front beneath a velvet bow, composed of one loop falling over the corsage, and one with single end falling over the skirt. The sleeves are striped in circles and are slightly puffed at the shoulder. Redfern’s 1 have seen a costume of aret velvet for outdoor wear. The skirt composed of gathers produced by ma- chinery, the threads of which have been | taken away and all traces of the process | obliterated. left sideclose to the fastening. Above the decollete is a yoke of peach-colored | velvet, continued into square epaulets and velled with black On the left side, over the ep: kathered peach v way down the col half-brace of , which comes half , to which it is fas- jet. The neck trim- | There are six gathers on the skirt, the smallest being at the top, and each boulllonne has three gathers. The upper part of the skirt is made to ap- pear very tight, and by means of volum- inous petticoats is widened very much toward the bottom. The skirt is rounded and touches the ground. The corsage is a blouse, gathered in the same manner as the skirt, made with a voke of thick white silk ornamented with a rich design of arabesques in silver and precious stones; this yoke is prolonged into square o ST PROIWCT S pAQE>DQE§QMA T GARB R Or ROM py oTos epaulets, which increase the width of the | corsage. The neck trimming is of white sllk, embroidered like the yoke, of w it appears to form a part. The band is of thick white silk, frilled, round behind and at the sides, and tens in the center with a very open ili- gree silver buckle enriched with precious stones. The sleeves are gathered like the rest of the costume and are tight from end to end; they are finished withflounces over the hand, beneath which are lace undersleeves. Over this costume is a long cape which entirely covers the arms, falling down as low as the hips. It is composed of five rows of bouillonnes and a flounce of velvet beneath, ornamented with zigzag ruches of the same material that cover the width of the flounce. At the neck is a similar trimming. The place of the collar is filled by a wide ble trimming slightly projecting over the cape behind and prolonged in front into a bow with broad ends. A theater wrap made by the same firm is of black satin, very long all around, which entirely covers the dress over | D'N Kggs UME PLATES FOR THE o =4 i o N SN PR { which it is worn. The ground is ems broidered all over with bouquets of flow= ers, the centers of which are enriched with bright-colored precious stones. The back is made with broad pleats, from the neck to the ground, widening as they descend. The front falls straight and down the center over a narrow flat dth. The cloak is trimmed down each side in front with a broad band of rich Venice lace, laid on flat or turned over, as may be desired. At each edge of this guipure is a wide frill of mousseline de sole, forming a cascade. The neck trim- ming is composed of a flat band em- broidered with flowers and precious stones, and the cloak has a high collar at the back, with points at the sides of black satin, embroidered on the outer side, covered with Venice lace, like that on the front on the inner side, and edged with frills of white mousseline de sofe. The sleeves, which are reiatively of mod- erate size, are like the rest of the mantle, but large enough to go easily over the sleeves of the dress worn with it. They are trimmed at the wrist with under- sleeves of white mousseline de sofe. 0000000000000 00000000000000000000000CO00000000000000000 PAREPA ROSA'S SONG IN THE DESERT. 00000 o ] 4] (4] [+ [4] gQueeP Experience of the Famous Prima Donna in a Breakdown on a Stage Tripg HAcross the Plains to California. © < [ cl00C0000000C000000000000C0C000000000C0C0000000000000000000 o T was in and we were travel- ing slowly across the plains in a lumbering stage coach, instead of flying overland in a Juxurious sleeper with a dining-car attached and every other convenience. 1 tell you we had something to complain of in those days besides the alkali dust. The as Parepa Rosa and her hus- band, and her maid, and De Vivo, her and there were a couple of mber, whom we suspected ing Mormons; and there was a mana he never spoke and was no great ac- quisition to the party, as you may magine. And then there was the driver and myself, and I think that was e Mormon, Carl Rosa, De Vivo and elf play a great deal and managed to while away the time rather well. The other Mormon flirted n X maid, who was a s and snap- ping black ey he took, for the snap in her ey plainly that she wouldn't brook a rival, much less a family of rivals. How- ever, that was his lookout and, as we didn’t need him for a fourth hand, we let him alone. The silent man was out of everything, for he didn’t play | cards, it was impossible to draw hir out, and he didn’'t even m to havi the gratification of taking in our con versation, for when De Vivo would teil his adventur or relate anecdote the celebrated people he had me and De Vivo was a talker—his expression never changed. For the matter of that, nothing seemed to strike him or arouse his interest until some one alluded to Lincoln's assassination, and then, with a faint show of interest and a slow drawl, he said: “Dew tell! Is Lincoln | dead?” We let him severely alone after that. He was stamped “back woods,” and we never tried to draw him out again, having come to: the conclusion that there was nothing to draw. It was a glorious moonlight night. We were rolling along smoothly enough. In four days we would arrive at our des- tination, Salt Lake, and all was well. ‘We had enjoyed a good dinner at five | and now we were happy in the remem- brance thereof, for it was far better to look back on a good meal than for- ward to the uncertainty of the next. man, a very quiet man—in fact, | 1 bump and a jar, and came to a dead Vhat's up!” called De Vivo, and | he opened the door of the coach and | sprang out. The driver was already off i t examining the coach. “What's the matter? What's the asked De Vivo impatiently. s anxious inspection, “the tire is broken, and we can't go on—that’s all.” “But why not fix it? We will wait,” said Parepa Rosa, with the charming impracticability of her sex, and from the rest of us were suggestions galore, the impossibility and futility of which were made apparent to us one by on We were struck! helpless, immovabl A long stretch of unpopulated district | behind us, a wide waste of country in front of us—no possible aid to be ob- tained, not a mechanic among us and no hope of release from the situation. Down upon us shone the silvery moon, lighting up the vast loneliress of the plains—the dense growth of sage- brush—bringing into clear relief the fallen faces of our now hopeless party. Then was the language of De Vivo both loud and warm, for had he not booked his star to appear in Salt Lake City four nights hence, and was | not this delay disastrous? Noisy were the lamentations of the Mormons, heartfelt were the exclama- tions of disappointment from Parepa Rosa and her husband, wild were the regrets of the maid and strong were my own observations. But the silent man spoke not. And thus the night advanced and the moon sailed up and up over the starry heav- ens. The driver walked sulkily about his coach. The suggestions of the pas- sengers availed not. Gloom settled down like a heavy fog over all, and at last we were silent, having exhausted our ideas. Suddenly, upon the still night air, s wafted the sad, sweet strains of | “Ben Bolt,” and Parepa Rosa threw | her soul into it and sang as though an | enthusiastic audience were waiting to break into rapturous applause. I She stopped with a laugh. ‘At least, {let us make the best of it!” she cried, in her jolly way. The pause which ensued was broken by the Silent Man. “Gosh! that was great!” he said, in slow accents. But the rest of us found it impossible to rise to the situation. “I kin mend that wheel,” continued Suddenly the stage stopped with a | the Silent Man, after a moment, “and said the man at last, finish- | | | gressed so rapidly under the strains of “I'll do it, Mrs. Ros the time I'm workin’. “#Oh,: T will; Xwillt2 tosa. “It'll take me pretty nigh all night,” said the Silent Man, after a brief ex amination of the damage, “but I'll do the work if you'll do the singin’.” We all applauded, and the compact was made. With the air of an expert the silent man started work. It was soon evident that he was a master me- | chanic, and we clustered around and watched his skillful work. “Within a Mile of Edinboro’ Town,” | “I Dreamt That I Dwelt in. Marble | Halls,” arias from “The Bohemian Girl” and snatches of oratorios, song after song rang through the still night | for the benefit of a very small audi-| ence, and when the singer paused the | Silent Man, lacking inspiration, also | rested. The more he liked her selec- | tion, the harder he worked, and he pro- if yer'll sing all | cried Parepa | “lI Know That My Redeemer Liveth,” that it brought a triple encore. The moon sank down to the horizon; the first faint, cool flush of dawn broke in the west. Oft In the stilly night, Ere slumber’s chain has bound me, | Fond memory brings the light Of other days around me; Sang Parepa Rosa. “Great!” drawled the Silent Man. | “Well, we're all hunky dory. I guess | I've earned my concert, and you've earned your ride, Mrs. Rosa.” “All aboard!"” shouted the driver. Into the coach scrambled the men, back into her seat sank Parepa Rosa with a sigh of relief, and with a crack of the whip and a sudden jolt, on we rolled toward Salt Lake City. RICHARD HAMILTON POTTS. —_—— RUBBER MONEY. TTO LEMPKE, mate of the schoon- er Lila and Mattie, which returned from the Galapagos Islands ‘Wednesday with the party of sci- entists, tells an interesting story and shows an interesting colu which is in_circulation on those islands. The coin is about the size of a silver quarter, but instead of being of metal is made of vulcanized rubber. It is bright red in color and is stamped with the name of the man who made it on the obverse side, while on the reverse is thenumber “20” in the center, with the inscription “Veinte centavos” around the edge. | French province. man, who owns all the pr of fish- ing and lumber dealing, as w as all other trade privileges. The men who work on the islands are mostly peons, and are compelled to deal with the stores. of Chanduy. For all work do: they re- ceive their pay in these rubber coins, and all their purchases are paid for with the same money. But the coin itself is not the most pe- culiar part of the ory. The islands abound in rubber trees, and Chanduy gets his rubber from his own trees and then vulcanizes it and stamps it, having all money. He has solved the problem of a circulating medium and shows that the resources of his island home are sufficient to enable him to run a little nation of his own, even to the extent of furnishing the money supply. For his outside transactions Chanduy | believes in a gold standard, and all his transactions witn the mainland are through the medium of the yellow metal. —————— A HARVEST OF HUMAN HAIR. Perhaps there is no staple article of commerce about which less is known by the average person than the human | hair. It will doubtless surprise many to learn that the dealers in human hair do not depend on chance clippings here and there, but there is a regular hair harvest that can always be depended upon. It is estimated that over 12,000 pounds of human hair are used annu- ally in the civilized world for adorning the heads of men and women, but prin- cipally the fair sex. The largest supply of hair comes from Switzerland, Germany and the There is a human hair market in the department of the lower Pyrenees, held every Friday. Hundreds of hair traders walk up and down the one street of the village, their shears dangling from their belts, and inspect the braids which the peasant girls, standing on the steps of the houses, let down for inspection. If a bargain is struck the hair is cut and the money paid on the spot. A woman’s hair may grow to the length of six feet. A single hair will bear up a weight of four ounces with- out breaking, but the hair thus heavily tried must be dark brown, for blond hair breaks under a strain of two and one-half ounces. Dealers in human hair can tell in a moment whether the locks offered them have been cut off or combed out. They do this by rubbing the hair through their fingers. If the hair has been cut from the head and has not been mis- placed it remains in its original posi- tion. If it has been pulled or combed out and put together regardless of the direction in which it grew one portion of it will slip to the right and the other to the left. It does this because the jagged edges catch upon each other The trade of the Gunflagol Islands is confined exclusively to the stores of one| and pull in opposite ‘_“’_?CHPE:- the necessary appllances for making his | | | | ERE Is the advice of a man who has married seven wives on “How to Win a Woman'’s Love.” The man is David E. Bates. At present he is in jall, charged with bigamy. Bates attributes his suc- cess with the sex to “his knowledge of women and human nature.” Do I love my wives and do they love me? Earth contains no better, truer or fairer flowers, and I sincerely believe | that each loved me with all the inten- sity of passionate love that good | women cast about their hearts’ idols. I was born and raised on a farm un- till my twenty-fourth year. I neverpaid | any attention to the fair sex until I was 1 did not go to parties or | 18 years old. dances. I was naturally bashful and afraid of the girls. At the age of 18 I accompanied a girl to a little country party. It was my first effort as a beau. Since then I have acquired great ex- perience in the ways of the world and the ways of women. I will not speak of my past or uphold or give details of my career, except in a general way. What I am accused of doing was from no criminal desire on my part, and the circumstances shall be held sacred by me out of respect to those concerned. After my first party I felt different Jn every way. 1 was prouder of my personal appearance and was more am- bitious. I looked upon woman with different eyes. I began to think of the kind of woman I would like to marry. Should she be tall or short, fat or lean, blonde or brunette? At an early age I was made to be- lieve that the dark-haired girls were sweeter, truer and better tempered than the fair-haired ones; but I have been forced to believe the contrary. While the brunette may not exhibit such high temper, yet her deep, quiet nature fur- nishes fuel to prolong the fire of her an assion. V%";fllepthe blonde may fly at you like an enraged tigress, yet the tempest is soon over and all is sunshiné again. ‘Wear a mustache if possible. I have found that women greatly admire ‘mustaches, 1io matter- what color they are. Of course, this is merely an ad- junct, but it will help you to win your battle. Go about your suit with the cool de- liberation of a philosopher. Do not be 0000000000000000000000000000000C0000C000000000000000000 HOW TO WIN A WOMAN'S LOVE. HAdvice of a Man Who Married Seven Wives, Was Arrested for Bigamy and Now Thinks He Knows All About the Sex. 00000000000000000000C000000000CCO0CO0000000000000000000° too gay. When a girl is in love with you it is time enough for gayety. When you are talking to her look her squarely in the eyes; not rudely or boldly but calmly and honestly. Women do not like men who cannot meet their gaze. They like to do all the blushing themselves. Much also depends on ‘Wear patent leather if possible. I have also found, as a general thing, that girls do not like red shirts or pink neckties. They look too effeminate. For brunettes I would suggest dark and quiet clothes. Brunettes are gen- erally quick observers, and loud clothes seem to annoy them. If you are courting a blonde you may wear big checks if you like. They do not seem to care much about the clothes you may wear so long as they are in good taste. At least that has been my experience. Blondes are also fond of blue and white neckties. Don't startle a lady with the vehe- mence of your love. The days of melo- drama have gone by. I have found that love is a tender plant, and must be tenderly nurtured. Do not be a dude No woman likes an effeminate man so long as there are other kinds to choose from. Do not use slang unless the lady your feet. uses it. I lost a brilliant match once by pernicious habit of saying “You bet.” Then I quit slang altogether, Let me tell you: No matter what your feelings may be, do not let your heart run away with your judgment. Take things easy. There are very few girls you cannot kiss before becoming engaged to. Most of them will love you if they kiss you. Therefore, if.pos- sible, get up a wager of—say a box of candy against a kiss. Lose the first two or three bets, until the lady thinks she has a cinch. Then work in a sure thing. Call as usual in the evening. ‘When the opportunity arrives insist upon payment. Do not tremble or lose nerve. The girl will-blush and try to change the subject. If she blushes she will pay up. with proper coaxing. If she says, “I prefer to give youback your candy,” all is off and there isnoth- ing doing. There should never be a trace of li- quor on your breath. Neither should a young man indulge in cloves, sassa- fras or cardamom seed. Girls look upon them as mere subtérfuges. Keep your mouth clean and you will have nothing to fear. When the time comes for you to kiss a young woman do not grab them off like cakes off a hot griddle. Go about it slowly. Do not dishevel her hair or muss her collar, or take it like 000000 [+ © o medicine. Kissing is a very important function, and an ignorance of its prin- ciples often leads to mutual disgust. I lost the love of a most estimable young woman once through pure care- lessness. We were engaged, and were sitting one evening in the darkened par- lor of her home. I asked her for a kiss, and without replying she put her arms around my neck and started to Kkiss me. By a piece of criminal neglect I had a clove in my mouth. She retired to her room, and shortly afterward I was given my conge. No effort of mine could ever win her back again. When the time comes to ask the mo- mentous question be sure that you are dressed in your best frock suit, and be equally sure that she is in a receptive humor. Y Do not wear a dress suit. It is not a graceful thing, either in case of ac- ceptance or rejection. I have never knelt in proposing. In nine cases out of ten it will make you appear cheap and affected. There are a hundred different ways of telling whether or not a girl loves you. I have noticed that when they are in love they are full of softness and curves. When they are indifferent they are angular and polite. A girl will find a thousand different ways of showing that she loves you. Flowers, dances and boats are all right, but you can never win a woman’s love with them alone. In conclusion, I would say don’t for- get the little attentions due a flancee. Don’t walk along the street three or four feet in advance of your betrothed. After marriage do not forget that it is your duty in time of sickness and trouble to share the burdens and sor- rows as well as the joys of life. PUBRREERD S — Mr. Wiggles—I ordered two dinner sets sent home to-day, Maria. Mrs. Wiggles—Two dinner sets! ‘Why, Joshua Wiggles, are you cray? ‘What in the world do we want of two more dinner sets? Mr. Wiggles—Why, didn't you tell me yesterday that you were going away next week to be gone a month? I want to have dishes enough in the house so that I won't have to wash any while you are away.—Somerville Journal. L e L Annie Whitewing, a Pawnee Indian wife, has sued for divorce from her husband. This seems to destroy the illusion that Whitewings never grow Weary.