The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, February 6, 1898, Page 25

RANCISCO CALL, AY, FEBRUARY 6, 1898 NANNERING ASHION, in regard to the form of skirts, is quite decided at the present moment. They are tight all round in the uvper part, and develop in the lower part a fullness that varies between four and five me- ers. The gedets are replaced by flat or turned down pleats, which touch at the fastening behind. I have seen skirts the front breadth of which forms an apron, to which are ad- justed all the rest of the skirt. It is made of one piece, without either pleat or gather. To get into these skirts there must be openings on each side of the apron, ~Which close completely as soon as the skirt is on. These slits are hidden by ornaments in embroidery or braiding, according to the style of the dress. At Parquin’s I saw a dress for afternoon wear of seal- skin. Round the upper part of the skirt is a xind of close- fitting yoke without the slightest fullness, which widens gradually to half way down. The skirt touches the ground. It is attached to the yoke, the connection being scarcely visible, is flat in front, slightly scalloped at the sides and much scalloped behind, and is lined with satin uf‘a dead leaf color. The corsage is a short bolero, rounded m_front and fastened diagonally from right to left. It opens slightly at the neck and is trimmed with lapels, with rounded scal- Iops. The neck trimming and lapels are edged with a wide strip of dead leaf silk. The lapels are trimmed with a small facing of tulle, embroidered with applicatton lace, gold points and steel beads over blue taffetas. The back of lh" bolere, which is cut up and rounded in the center, shows most of the waistband, which is of wide blue silk, poin in the center in front and forms a corselet. It fasten: hind beneath a large bow of blue taffetas. The tailor made, very close fitting to the arm, esp the elbow to the wrist. The cuffs are trimmed with flounces f the same fur, which partly cover the hand. 2 lAnmhm‘ outdoor dress is of iron gray lainage. The skirt follows the outline of the body all round the waist. It is rounded at the bottom and touches the ground. It is made with a narrowapron,ornamented down each sidewith three stiched pleats of the same material, set very close to gether, but widening toward the bottom, where they round the skirt at about twenty centimeters from the edge. The skirt is trimmed round the bottom with a flounce cut out of the same piece as the apron. The corsage is a low necked bo- lero, cut round at the neck and opening down the rront over a blouse of white mousseline de soie, trimmed with three rows of gold braid. Beneath it is a sort of small waistcoat of lavender velvet. On each side of the waistcoat are lapels of white deerskin, shaped like a shawl. The sleeves are or- namented with small puffs at the shoulders, and are quxfi tight from above the elbow to the wrist. Just beneath t t{_ puffsare three rowsof stitched pleats,ashort d)sm_nce apax; 3 The cuffs are trimmed with lavender velvet, which partly EE—————— the bottom 1s a flounce of black tulle, ornamenred with four TOWS of velvet ribbon of different widths, being widest at the bottom, anq 15 beaded with a row of purled braid embroid- ered with jet. The corsage is a blouse cut longways in open work purls, embroidered with jet, over white gauze. It is cut low and square at the neck, and is trimmes with a wide purl like the rest of the corsage. Above the decollete is a Yoke of black tulle, which gives the effect of ‘a high necked dress, but there js nothing between it and the skin, The neck trimming is of black satin, The back of the corsage is trimmed in the same style as the front. The walistband is round, being composed of a rich design in Jet embroidery, and fastens on the right side with an open work Jet buckle. The sleeves are of black gathered tulle, straight from end to end, over white silk. They are encircled by eight bands of black velvet, diminishing in width from the top in regular 8radation, and the cuffs are trimmed Wwith a frilling of black tulle, which nearly conceals the hands. A pretty design shown by Raudnitz is an evening dress of Pink taffetas, veiled first with plain pink mousseline de sofe, and with a second veiling of the same materials, in wavy batterns; over these is a third veiling of blue silk tulle, em- broidered with black chenille, in patterns enriched with bright precious stones and strass. The skirt is quite close fitting at the waist, and is cut up into round indentations, edged with black chenille at the bottom. Beneath the in- dentations is a frill of cerise velvet, edged with a tulle ruche to match. The corsage Is a soft low necked bolero blouse, With triple veiling like the skirt. It opens down the center Over a front of cerise velvet, in two shades, ornamented With a cerise ruche round the decollete, ana two similar ruches in a waved line lower down. The waistband is of cerise velvet, in two shades, draped, is narrow behind and on the right side and very wide on the left side, almost ex- tending to the arm-pit, and is fastened beneath a rosette. The sleeves are composed of cerise, made of frills of cerise velvet, placed upright. Another stylish dress is of black silk velvet. The skirt Is rather long and rounded at the bottom, very tight over the hips and in front and adjusted to the figure. It has two small pleats at the waist behind, drawing the fullness to the center, and widens very much down to the bottom, where it is trimmed with three rows of chevrons in frilled black taffeta ribbons, laid on en sautoir, very low in front and higher behind. The corsage is a blouse, with a yoke of sky blue velvet, veiled with white gauze, embroidered with a rich design in jet and strass, with chevrons of black frilled taffetas between the embroidery. The collar is of blue taffetas, veiled like the yoke. The neck trimming is a simple black satin ribbon, fastened by a small rosette on the left side. The sleeves are very simple and model the arm; the cuffs are trimmed with chevrons of frilled black 25120409 E) Mo s &0 9909 vers the hands. The back of the corsage is tight and is taffetas. Over the dress is a cape, the body of which fitg = ‘With stiched pleats like those on the sKirt. tight like a corsage, the part over the shoulders being made ibh Aies te e DB br e st ts oE Ttk e falling over the sleeves. It is trimmed with (p’l;-\\ e L L resembling those on the skirt. The pody is draped spanglec le o s modeled to the body, and has a little fullness huh‘de\s has the walst. It is rather long and is rnund_od at the bf\llfllmd. Down the center in front it is trimmed with a brnad.xr\:r e . braid embroidered with jet. The same braid forr'nf two kau& toirs, which descend about half way down the skirt. Roun in the fichu style and folds over from right to left. The collar, which is very high, is of blue taffetas, veiled with English application lace, and edged with chinchilla, which is continued round the neck in front. At the border is a frill of English lace. i Evening by Ernest Ra > PAZGA e bz A TR U Dres®>