The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, January 2, 1898, Page 24

T HE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, JANUARY 2, 1898. from Paris | . 394 Rue | e seen a | ap of black | he Duches h com- n with it. yoki a high re two cen other, with flounces flounce of English h shade. Round the the ground ich feath- is pojnted ‘- the pc and and soie. with whit , in the the old style, waist and th long ends. th all sorts of in fur: For even- lined with ches below point in g garment is a large ur de v part of Englis mixed with lary of nasturtium colored | mousseline de soie. A very taking style is the large man- .tle broadtail, fastening down t de and slightly blouse shaped, c of on- 17 Boulevard | tor of sev- One of spira- ¥ of printed flowers all down at equaldis- tances. It quite tight at the hiy " and is ornamented around the top with | a ruche of English lace in front, and with a strip of the same lace laid on | flat round the bottom. The petticoat is | But as 1 will de- | model that hown me s o corset of yellow silk, | with black, and with garlands | | | also very tight, begins somewhat below | ornamented with epaulets composed | the waist and is taken in to make it fit | of three small flounces, edged with | mmed round the bottom g white satin, and are crenelated at thei tight. It is | ber of | white satin. | the left; it is cut into three long sharp with a flounce of English application lace, laid on en sautoir. M. E. Goupy Savoye, who formerly carried on busi- successor to the Maison ness in the Rue des Jeuneurs, has for some months past been established at No. 32 Avenue de I'Opera, in well fitted up premises, wh I have just seen all the latest novelties in under linen for wedding outfits. This firm also makes very pretty dresses, among which some made for the Grand Duchess Vladimir particularly struck me. One is an even- ing dress of ivory liberty satin, very t in texture, over pink taffetas. The and rounded at the bottom r long; at the top it is very ¢ in front and at the sides, is htly gathered at the waist behind an widens gradually down to the ground. Tt is trimmed all round along each breadth with open work, showing the pink taffetas beneath. The apron trimmed down the center with a small gathered bouillonne, with three s of open work on each side. The corsage is cut low and square and gathered beneath the waistband. The fullne above is gathered in by a num- all stitched pleats, which give ge a flat appearance round the is the cors decollete. lonne, with triple border on each side matching that on the apron; at the decollete, which is trimmed with a nar- row ruche, the purls are formed into a round pattern. The waistband is of pink taffetas, with a bow of point d’es- prit tulle behind, and long ends orna- mented with three rows of the same material and fringed with rose petals. The sleeves are of point d'esprit tulle, straight and slightly gathered, and cover the upper part of the arm. They | are trimmed with ruches, fringed with rose petals. The upper part of the sleeves and the shoulders are orna- mented with epaulets composed of rose | petals. At Gaston Vaille’s, No. 29 Boulevard | Malesherbes, among other dresses 1 shown a pretty corsage of green vet, in shape a blouse fastened down left side, and rather low in the k, over a yoke of draped white satin. it is trimmed down the front with two straight stitched bands of green satin to match the velvet and edged with The right side overlaps indentations, which are edged with a band of green satin between two strips | | of white satin on the cross. Another strip of green satin, edged with white, runs round the decollete and comes round over the right shoulder and the waist. Between the two strips is an ornament composed of the same satin, green and white alternately, placed horizontally and diminishing in width down to the bottom of the corsage. The back and the left side are plain. The ruche trimming is of white satin sur- mounted by a collar of the same. The sleeves are quite close fitting. They are Down the center is a bouil- | TEOGEN | wrists, where they are trimmed with | green satin edged with white. At Gaildraud’s, No. 43 Rue du Bac, I | was shown a costume, the skirt of which is of drab cloth, quite plain. It | forms a fourreau in front and over the hips, with pleats round the waist be- Over the skirt is a vest of the same cloth, tightened behind by seams and narrow ribs and taken in on each side in front. The front is embroidered down each side with eleven frogs of braid to match the cloth, and the basque, which is very long, side with a Gothic design, worked in the same braid. English sleeves are even smaller than they appear in Paris, and a good majority of evening gowns have the merest excuse for a shoulder strap, according to a letter from London. ‘When flowers are used for the trim- ming of the gown it is a pretty fash- | ion to use them for a covering to this strap, and among other odd devices that we see on evening gowns are | waistbands, both of fur and flowers. Rather a bizarre appearance is given | to a gown of white satin by a flock | of lace butterflies in various sizes, ir- | regularly arranged on the' front and | sides of the skirt. The butterflies are | of black lace and colored stones are cleverly interwoven into the lace. In- the gown some of the wings are stiff- ened so as to stand away from the satin. The corsage is draped with white tulle, held by more of these but- terflies, and the sleeves are of pheas- ing in the embroidery on the butter- fly wings. Colored sleeves, whether of velvet or tulle, are among the novel- ties of the season and are enthusi- astically accepted. If a great variety of color is for- bidden in the hats themselves, the | are mot thus restricted. | green velvet hat the other day pinned | to the hair of the pretty wearer with one hat pin set with amethyst, an- other of turquoise and one of moon- | stones, to say nothing of the little | jeweled butterfly clasp that caught | the veil at the back and the gay-col- ored beetle that held it to the brim | in front. One of the latest novelties in vells is one in a fine framework of horse- hair, lined with white or black tulle and dotted with black velvet spots. This is meant for damp-weather wear, when an ordinary veil is liable to cockle up and stick to the face. Veils are not so much devoted now to beauty as utility. The white net veil that launders well is the best for gen- | eral outdoor use. Hats with draped velvet crowns and brims of astrakhan are the newest wrinkle in millinery. One of wistaria- blue velvet crown has brim of gray astrakhan. This is English, and ex- ceedingly smart. A chinchilla toque is a new thing, trimmed with two stead of being entirely appliqued to | | pins with which they are fastened on | I saw a | hind, widening into wide hollow pleats. | is ornamented on each | | wedding shades of pomegranate velvet and Ls:ahee, and, although gay colorswould | bracelets | distes, have, | ings of soft net. This gives more body clusters of dahlias. in toques is composed entirely of par- rot’s plumage, and wings in this fash- ion and exquisite shade of green. Wide bracelets clasp close around the throat, after the fashion of the Duchess of Marl- borough's famous pearls, are really in fashion, as long predicted they would be. But all not ing as fortunate as the Duchess in p: g the real ar- ticle, strings o mitation pearls fastened with ver clasps are worn about the neck and wrists with even- ing gowns. But pearls are trying to the complexion. Gold necklaces and are more becoming, hence are bound to be most In vogu~. The violet is the flower of the day. Even the rose must stand aside in its favor. The bigger the bunch the bet- ter—so far as fashion is concerned, but not for the pocket book. As the season advances so does the oopu- larity and the price of the violet. Bigger and bigger grow the Victor- ian bonnets, but only the very young and slender girls take to them. This is wise. The Victorian bonnet is y at its best when screening a very fa'r fresh face about which little natural bob curls may cluster. At a recent the malds wore Victorian bonnets. One was of gray beaver, against which was laid plumes of pale blue, cream. lace, pink white satin ribbon. Primrose and pale-cameo pink crepe de chine is being shown among the new things for debutantes’ and brides- maid’s frocks. Trimmed with pearl | and opal beaded passementeries, this ant green velvet, this shade appear-" P B is like the robe of a fairy princess. It may also be made very effective in combination with brocaded fab- rics in delicate tints. Its most charm- ing effect is when combined with peau de sole with draperies of silk net of the same tint and bodice garnitures of sprays of roses and cascades of Venetian lace. S Many of the long Bernhardt sleeves of gauze, turned out by the best mo- I notice, invisible lin- to the sleeve, and if the arm is de- fective in roundness it is improved by the addition of the net. In trans- parent bodices built over the low silk linings fashion makes the same pro- vision, the net under the shirring or tucking holding the airy material nice- |1y in place and at the same time pre- serving its transparency. One of the prevailing fashions in full dress is the wearing of very long wrinkled sleeves with low cut or half-low bodices. There is already a hint in the shops of what will be worn as the spring season comes on in tailor-made gowns. Oxford suitings in tri-color melanges, boucle effects in French camel’s hair, India cashmere, genuine Scotch cheviots, English serges and diago- nals, and creped cloth in dark and medium light colors, and in spring weight, are among the newest things the shops are showing. There are uncounted novelties in Another novelty | and necklaces that | poppies ana | | O4+0404 0404040404040+ 0+0+-0+0+0+3+00+0+040+0404040404040404 hardly be becoming worn by a fat short-waisted woman, they arecharm- ing additions to the costume of a tall | or slender one. A sash of plaid ribbon in which red and white predominate is edged wi a zig-zag insertion of black lace and ruffled with black chiffon. Another is of bright canary-tint taffeta, having ruffles of lace applied intervals of about two inches the belt to the ends. curved. The sash is attached to girdle of softly folded silk, which h a spray of small bows leaves mounting from the waist to t right shoulder. A most effective sash is satin ribbon, cut into, small, bi; stripes, with lace insertion. The girdle | at the sides and caught | is pointed down in front by a steel buckle. Despite all that has been said to t contrary, the hair is as much wav | as ever, the only difference being that thatthelarge wave is no longer consid- ered good form, a smaller and much | place. the Greek knot of some years back, and, given a well-shaped head, few styles neater one having taken its There is some talk of reviving are so becoming. from The ruffles are put on in curves and the ends are also | resembling | of black | or W th Rock: Mrs. Marcus Whitman, ed at and Mrs. H. H. Spaulding, wife of t! Rev. H. H. Spaulding. a | the quartet started | the West. They made the journey 2% | 3500 miles in he | eral Fremont. vide a Christmas dinner for the i mates of the San Francisco Coun Hospital. as | Mrs. J. A. Hayes, one of the daugh- | ters of Jefferson Davis, lives at Col he | rado Springs. She has two sons, t. ed | Hayes Davis. Miss Lulie A. Little, years of age, hi Memphis bar. a negress, s been admitted to t Miss Little is a grad ville, and intends to practice law Kansas. Miss Platt, also a colored woman, is' he After their marriage in Angelica, N. Y., in 1836, immediately for of seven months, crossing the pass six years in advance of Gen- Mrs. Phebe Hearst gave $250 to pro- n- ty o- he eldest of whom by an act of the Legis- lature is to bear the name of Jefferson > he u- | ate of the Central College of Nash- | in | GOOD THINGS THAT ’Or'EN ARE DOII The first two women to cross the|a successful lawyer in Chicago. v Mountains at South Pass were ] wife of Dr. ‘Whitman, the famous Oregon pioneer, She speaks French and German fluently and is much patronized by foreigners, though her practice is confined almost exclusively to the office. | These two are said to be the women of their race in Amerjca are entitled to call themselves fledged lawyers. : Mrs. M. S. Fitts of Lynn, Mass., has fuilfilled all the requirements for the position of United States pension- claim attorney and has been appoint- ed to that position by the Secretary of the Interior. She is the only.woman in | New England appointed to that posi- tion. Mrs. Marilla M. Ricger, a well-known woman lawyer and equal suffragist, has ‘announced herself a’' candidate to succeed Congressman Cyrus A. Sallo- way of the rirst New Hampshire dis- trict at the next election. Miss Alice E. Lowry of Cass County, Mich., is making a tour of the State lecturing and forming girls’ clubs, the members of which pledge themselves : not to kiss young men who use tc or to accept proposals ¢f. ma { from them. She is winning ma cruits. only who full- NEW TO-DAY. ¢ (4 Our Cloak We will offer at GREATLY We have no hold-over goods from to intending purchasers. and newest goods are offered at this sale, O+0+ PARIS. e January Reduction Sale in and Suit Department WILL BEGIN MONDAY, JANUARY 3, 1898. REDUCED PRICES all Imported RUSSIAN BLOUSE JACKETS, in Cloth and Velour. VELOUR CAPES. And FANCY COSTUMES, Russian Blouse Style. past seasons, and nothing but the latest styles and an early call will be of great advantage COUNTRY ORDERS CAREFULLY ATTENDED TO. 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