The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, October 17, 1897, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 17 1897. et ] FASHION DECREES THAT FURS MUST BE WORN Although the snow flies not in this land of flowers and sunshine, nor do we hear the tinkle of sleighbells when winter grows apace, our women of fashion revel in the possession of furs as costly and luxurions as thoss which adorn their Eastern sisters. And this is to be a furry season. Fashion | decrees it, and her devotees forthwith obey. The little word so hateful to the ear feminine at the marriagealtar is never disputed when fashion speaks. Were woman to obey her husband as blindly as she does her modiste, he would think the miilennium had arrived shead of time. | Meanwhile he must be content to rank ; second in authority and pay the bills. But I must turn from the interesting subject of man and his checkbook sphere of usefulness to the more fascinating | topic of furs in their present variety. It is a theme to enthuse over, for I have feasted mine eves upon such garments this week as might have been fashioned | for a princess of blood roval, instead of | which they were designed for that queen of society, the American girl. She will be feen on our streets this winter in fur array beautiful enough to be a worthy ing for her own beauty. And if her bank account permit she will choose seal- skin or sable, either alone or combined. | As to the making of them the blouse | effect will hold preferred place and the | result will not b: cumbersome. Sealskin | in the expert hands of the garment- buiiaer lends itself gracefully to the new order of things and is stylish to a degree in the pouched shape so prevalent in bodices. The coat length is scarcely a| length at all below the waist line, the fur rippling into a ruffle below it. | A natty sealskin coat destined for a| local society belle has a blouse-like front, with coliar, buttons and cuffs of chin- chilla, and silver-mounted bel: of lizard- skin. Indeed, chinchilla is in for a bid to i vopular favor and several charming capes | have been shown me for evening wear | made with yoke and ripple. Its delicate | tones combine effectively with the rich | color peculiar to sealskin, and the two will be used together frequently. Lined with ermine, chinchilla is a most becom- ing fur for opera wear, made into taree- | quurter lengths. For either blonde or | brunette nothing could be more becom- | ing. | Sealskin bath charms to sooth ths breast, be it never so savage—of woman— | the civilized world over, and none of us I | fancy will admit that we do not long to | own one, some time and somewhere, be- | fore we get into angel habiliments. Even | then I can picture a sorrowtul seraph, on | the edge of a cloudlet in the ether blue, | regretting that she went unsealskinned to | that bourne whence noseraph may return. A New York girl who will winter in Galitornia has brought hither a garment | that is the envy oi all her acqueintances. | It will be the despair of those who long for yet cannot afford its counterparr. ’Tis a coat of dark green cloth lined with | sable, the fronts of course flaring back- | ward and the rolling collar being of the samne handsome fur. The revers, into which the collar ens, are square | shaped, and give a particularly smart ef- | fect to the front, while the back, close | fitting, is banded by a half-belt of the | loth, piped with fur, disappearing into | tne seams under the arms. Deep cuffs ot | sable complete a garment as distinguished in appearance as anvthing I have ever | seen, and I would advise those of my readers who can happily indulge their tastes for what is chic, costly and elegant | to have just such a creation in cloth and fur evolved for them. Sables that have left their tails behind them have provided women of wealth with a suitable finish for capes. These may ornament the skirt of the cape and | form epaulets. Occasionally they form the trimming of long stoles depanding& from the collar in front. 8iiks for the lining of fur garments are bewilderingly lovely in variety, and may be had at steeple prices if one desires them of the best. Apronos of top-itory prices Persian lamb will vie with sauble and seal for su- premacy on feminine shoulders, slthough it does not compare with its rivals in point of durability. She who has money to cremate at the shrine of fasnion, however, will waive the absence of this virtue and incase herself in a smart little coat of tbe lamb that is Persian. She will order it blouse-shapsd as to the back and front, faced with ermine or chin- chilla to contrast strikingly with its jet blackness, and will girale it with as bhand- some a beit as it deserves. Previous to the setting in of our so- called winter season, which is really not a winter worthy of the name when one thinks of Alaskan and Atlantic shores, | fur collarettes, collars ard boas are seen on the streets and in the park, where our | most smartly gowned women take their | daily waiks and drives when abroad. The | collarettes are especially fetcning, made | beautifal by the blending of fur, lace and | ribbon, ruched aggressively around ths | wearer's neck. They are an excellent compromise on a wrap when a heavy outer garment is not | necessary, and impart a finish of their own to any cutdoor toilet. Some of them extend to the shoulders, and they are in- veriably dainty and becoming. Sne who cannot afford a coat or cape of the costlier furs may compromise on a collaretie with much satisfaction in & climate hke ours, | where day after day in winter will pass when the collarette is sufficient for outside | protection. { Boas retain their popularity, and are witbin financial reach of sll womenkind, " many of them appearing in the cheaper turs. Itisin the collarette, however, that one's fancy can run riot in a mass of filmy lace, soft fur and satiny ribbon—a verita- ble confecticn in its way. Squirrel fur is | utilized for the lining of cloth coats, but | 1s not particularly pritty. Mink will be | worn extensively in San Francisco, as will also stone marten; so I am informed by our leading fur authorities. i California women are indifferent on the | muff question. At a furrier’s recently I examined several pretty conceits in the | muff line, but they are likely to be passed | by when our girls and matrons go fur- shopping. In the Eastthey are, of course, indis- pensable to the winter wardrobe and are frequently very elaborate affairs of velvet, fur and lace. Muffs in this city are prin. ally found in the show-windows, from “Lich post of vantage they are apt to ('vel no further. The San Francisco woman bas quite as much use for muffs as she has for ear-lappets, and even their or- namental prettiness does not tempt her to be burdened with one. Those of yon who have partially worn- ut fur garments may be of good cheer, for the merest scrap of fur can be pressed into service this winter as trimming if it is notavailable in large pieces for lining. Fur will fly all over gown and hat, wher- ever one chooses 10 place it; skirt, bodice, bonnet, all these will depend mainly upon | doubtless due to the demand created for | fur for garniture. In narrow binds it will be used at hem and seam, and will twine in and about the other trimmings on win- ter headgear. From top to toe the winter girl will be a study in fur, if she sochooses. And how tne dress reformers will shrick when they behold the skirt of her, weighted down with furry bands! Ab, those reformers! They may shout them- se:ves purple in the jace with protests, yet are their exhortations as sounding | brass and cymbals in the ears of their sisters, who go their ways bewitchingly | 2owned and break hearis without half trying. o Porple reminds me of a red-haired beauty who crossed my vision on Kearny street while doing her shopping on a re- | An artist would probably cent afternoon. say she was Titian-locked. At any rate she had dared to gown herself in purple of the new shade and in th» new French lacy’s cloth, and she wore her ciothes | with an *“air” that compelled attention. The gown was tailor-made, silk-line: and trimmed neatly with biack braid—sou- tache, now that I recall 1t. Her hat was of black velvet with wide brim, crushed | velvet crown banded with jet, and plumes. Around her mneck was a bhandsome blsck and purple {feather boa; her umbrella was of purple silk repeating the gown in shade; gloves, black undressed kid, stitched with purple. When she crossed the street at Post her ! just such articles to wear with the incom- ing ubiquitous plaid silk blouse, which | bas already brightened the scenery where | women most do congregate. Primarily used on belts, buckles will enlarge their sphere, decorating bows, rosettes, finish- ing sashes and folded belts, at the taroat | to fasten a stock collar, or wherever else the wearer may wish. A large one in | front and a smaller one in the back will be much worn where the bodice is finished | 1n folded-belt style. . s i e | Kaleidoscopic in their brilliancy of col- oring are the new ribbons, by comparison with which any rainbow rhat ever arched | itself across a sky would pale away to | nothingness from sheer envy. The rib- bons of the season are stripes gone mad with ariot of color in their endeavor to outdo their plaided rivals. The plaid sash ribbons, by the by, are dashingly band- | some, the prevalent colors upon which the plaid is grounded being dark green, brown, | gray, red and black. Sashes for evening wear are beautifully evolved this season, and some of them are further enhanced at the modistes, by cascades of lace falling their entire length; also by lace edging, corresponding with the lace employed in the beautifying of the bodice. Sashes may be dainty or daring in coloring as one prefers. For popular wear the rib- | bon-grass strive will be chosen as a trim- | ming. Itis found with a groundwork of | dull shades. Tomato red is a pretty win- THIS IS THE LATEST STREET COSTUME. lifted sxirt revealed patent-leather shoes, with purple cloth tops, and a petticoat that was a mass of daintv fluffiness in | fluted Vandyke-pointed rufiles of purple and white striped silk over accordion pleats. daylight dream in purple. . = % e Belts are barbarous, artistic, ugly or beautiful, according to the observer’s fancy, for one finds them in every con- ceivable variety and at all prices, and the entire world of women should be satistied | with the number of styles from which to choose their waistgear, Time has besen when a showy belt for street wear wou!d have stamped the wearer as a person of vulgarized preferences. Now one may wear what one likes and not run the | gauntlet of narsa criticism. The most graceful effect 1s perhaps obtained by bringing them to a point in front after the fashion that Sarah Bernhardt bas im- mortalized, and which is =o adaptable 10 loosely fiited garments. Fancy leathers, jeweled clasp, connecting links of metal, chains, these are alt used in belt form, and nothing seems too prodigal of color or material to be worn, either at home or in the carriage, belting one’s gown or one’s jacket. This has given the Mexican leatherwork here a sudden popnlarity which it deserves. It is Californian and very ornamental as well as extremely durable. Nothing handasomer in leather- work has been dome than the Mexicass achieve with tbeir skill, The up-to-date woman must own sev- eral belts if she would have herself appro- priately encircled for different occasions. The correct thing for strictly dress wear is & belt of Russian enamel, silver or French eilt, thickly studded with jewels. Very chasteand pleasing are the oxidized zilver ones whicn look well with so many differ- entcolors. The latter metal iseffectively set with emeralds or amethysts, or both. One novelty consists of miniature faces framed 1n gilt, connected with gilt clasps and turquoises strung between. Even lur has crept into buckles. Some of the new leather belts for street wear have less width of buckle and strap, both of which are placed on the belt proper. Buttons are elaborate this season. The French novelties in this line just received eclipse those of last winter in beauty, some being attractive and artistic enough to display in a jeweler's window. Buckles in numberless var.eiy will by used wher- ev r a buckle may serve its purposs as an nrnament for clasping a knot of velvet or dress material. From plain cut steel to ornately jeweled ones they come, and will play no unimportant part in gown garni- ture. They have never before attained so much prominence, aud are certainly a welcome addition to the wardrobe. Enamel and jet will be lar:ely used in buck eform. The revival of buckles and the care and time given them by manufacturers is In short, my fair unknown was a | | ter shede in rithons, striped with har- | monizing colors. CE— oA | selves, with black in the lead, though navy blue, brown and green will be much | worn. Black has a great deal to pe sald inits favor for braid effects. It is quiet | yet striking in its own dignifiel way, and therefore appeals most strongly to women who desire to evade being made conspicu- ous in public. Amid the fancy braids Hercales is still a popular contrast, its | severe plainness and faithful durability | recommending it to every one. will trim: a decidedly large proportion of the fall and winter gowns and is always a satisfaction to her who selects it. the new loopedge braid will be an attrac. tion. It comes in all colors, Including black, one or both edges being looped, ac- cording to its destined use. For instance, if intended for the bottom of the skirt only the upper edge need be looped, while | for straight rows and :crolls the double edge is most suitable. For the Russian blouse, which rules the wardrobe just now, soutache braid is especiaily appro- | pr.ate, as well as for skirts. Soutache is sold 1n all the plain colors, also brown and silver combinations, silver gray and steel. Then there are the tutular braids of plicated, mazy designs or simply plain, These are likewise found in combina- tions and steel effects, but black hoids first piace. Titian braidsare displayed at stores, und so are braid-covered buttons for tailor-made gowns. In brief, every one of us must count among her pos- sessions this seazon a plain cloth dress heavily braided. Indispensable to one’s wardrobs also is a black satin skirt, with which to wear silk plaid waists; or the skirt may be a black moire, and the bodice any one of the | lovely silks in new evening shades. | Young girls, however, should wear white | cloth skirts with their evening waists, black being altogether too heavily somber for youth to assume. And this reminds me that the belle of the near future, now known vagueiy as the Young Girl, or Miss Somebody’s sis- ter, is not by any means an unimportant little person in Dame Fashion’s estima- tion, for I have lately noted a number of exceedingly pretty styles designed espe- cially for her siim fipure and sweet iace. One, a street gown, wasa plain blue cioth, trimmed strikingly yet neatly with wide Hercules braid of navy blue. On the front of the skirt were five perpendicular rows of the braid, the center row being longest, cut in a point and stitched flatly. From the middle of the bicuse front to the belt were five rows of braid corre- sponding with those on the skirt. The upper portion of the waist and the box- | The new braids are a chapter in ‘them- Hercules | For those on the lookout for novelties | every width and coloring, put on in com- | | winter day. | illustrated in last Sunday's CALL in these | clothes, | co umns. | | | | | | | p L ts that finist the sleeve tops braided in the lattice or barred design, Another girlish costume, par- ticularly chic, had skirt and square blouse of pleid. Over a body of plain colored silk, the blouse was opened ot the left side ana held by straps ot velvet with fancy buttons. Silk pleatings of the shape designated as caps extended ower the sleeves at the shoulder, the neck being finished with a stock of fancy ve!vetand a jeweled buckle. The latter detail I did not quite approve of for a child of 14. A simpler one would have seemed more appropriate. Other- wise the gown was charmingly suitable. e aw Theater-waists and ball-dresses are diz- sily resplendent if the shopper elects to bay what she sees imported for the pur- pose, together with the trimmings and accessories that clamor for her attention at the counters. Satic is the usual body for a covering of various filmy stuffs, and velvet 1ibbon—than which nothing can be softer or more becoming — will reign over everything else in the way of trimmings. The most elaborate evening gown that hss dazzled my eyes thus far this season is just completed for a local society leader not long since made a bride, who will migrate to Wasuington, D. C., this winter. The skirt of rich satin orocade was cutat the knees into the flaring shave now in vogue, and lined throuchout with a delicate shade of blue taffeta, haircloth facing it some ten inches from the bottom, which was finished, or rather faced, in the custo- msry way with pink velvet to match the groundwork of the brocade. The neck was square, with jhigh collar at the back, the sleeves a small puff tied with veivet bows at the outer arm, where the long gloves met them. Pink ostrich tips finished the neck, a richly jeweled belt clasped the waist, and the fan was a dainty priceless affair, a wedding gift. 7w A spasmodic and let-us-pray unsuccess- ful effort is being made to bring the demi-train into street use, where now it prevails for carriage and calling gowns. i refuse to think thatany woman who reads her CaLn will countenance so idiotica fashion. Trailing skirts upon the streets are an unsightly insult to common sense and the cleanliness which ranks so near godliness that I am inclined to the opin- 10n it goes above it. 'Who has not recotled in di~cust at si:ht of a woman whose clothing is gathering up the city’s refuge into an unspeakably dreadful mass as she goes her way ? o A silken-textured moire, a vast improve- ment upon silk, with a genuinely silken rustie and staying qualities that silk never aspired to, has made its appearance for skirt-lining purposes. Haircioth is still he material depended upon forstiffening, it is ofcen substituted by featherbone in the number of rows desired, when light- ness of weight is the aim. Both are quite generally used in the making of sKirts, each having virtues of itsown to recom- mend it. Sometimes the entire back breadths will belined with hairclotn to pre- serve the gown’s shape and *set,” while featherbore in several rows stiffens the trontand sides. A pretty mode is the in- sertion of V-shaped pieces in each seam of a skirt, where the flire begins, at the knee, the V's being trimmed with braid or otherwise elaborated over any contrasting material to the skirt that may be desirable. % ae-w Blue is a favorite color in new materi- als, the shades biiug called Nansen blue, Hippique, Pervenche blue, Chantilly, Jockey Cinb, Derby, Longchamps and Auteuil. The adarker shades are Royal, Marine and Matelot. In rea we have Geranium, Corail and a poppy-red callea Coguelicot. Violet effects are distin- guished as Parma, Pensee, Lilas and Anemone. The yellows are Creme, Faille, Sun-ray, Ivoire and Nacre. In graysthere are Chinchilla, Argent and Mongolie. Prettiest of them all, I am inclinea to think, are the greens, especially the leafy shades, which remind me of the dead summer’s emerald beauty. The different greens are Verdoyant, Muquet, Palmyra, Siberian, Russe, Nile and Feuillage. Otherschemes of color are obtained by ‘he artistic combination of these new | sbades. Some of the greens and grays are ideal companions. Turguoiseand azurine blue lend themselves daintily to combina- | tion with other colors, as also do the new variations of pink camellia, rose, bengale, roi, princesse, tulip and terimere. Ry Silhouetted in my memory is a mourn- ing costume which pissed me on Mont- gomery street the other day, the wearer of which T am told isar centarrival at one oi the hotels from New York, where she has long been consicered one of the best-dressed women in society. The ma- terial was drap d’ete, the trimmings con- sisting of folds of black silk in the dull- surfaced quality employed exclusively { for mourning use, and laid upon these folds was a narrow fold of crape, The bodice was similarly treated and the tout ensemble the perfection of good taste. With this elegant yet unobtrusive gown ‘was worn a black felt bat, rather wide as to brim, with dull-black pins and uprignt bows of the siik used in trimming the costtme. Black undressed kid gloves and biack seal l:ather purse and cardcase, each without ornamentation, were the finishing touches to an artistically con- ceived toilette. * - » Walking hats are the prettiest yet pro- vided for us; a bit masculire, it is true, but refined in their molification of the sbapes worn by men. Felts of demure hue are enlivened by plaid bands and bows. Bometimes a somber little bira * | nestles ut the left side, but the plaid is preciely what one wants to see on a dull Soft materials will hold sway this winter in millinery. The tilted brim is hailed with joy by those of us whose faces need to be studied by the milliner bsfore she can evolve something individually adapted to our particular style of baauty or ugli- | ness. No woman is really ugly when her milliner gets through with her, provided, ofcourse, that madame, the hat artist, un- derstands her responsibilities, The crown is also a boon to the woman of unclassic face, for it adapts itsetf de- lightfuly to her imperfections and may be twisted, turned, tortured into any shape to suit the features below it. And all hats may be as lavishly trimmed as one wishes. Birds, feathers, plumes, quills and silk cord are the favorite garni- tures. The bandeau is covered with trim- ming, and anv color that is becoming may be chosen. Flowers, plaid and mirror velvets and lacs are seen in all their bright attractiveness on the newest hats, RSl 5o et Jet will be used for trimming costumes of almost sll materials and shades. On black and colored foundations may be seen this showy form of garniture over boleros, vests, panels, revers and yokes. Jet has made its way to such delicate fabrics as mousseline de soie and net. Some of it is relievel by stee!, and this adds decidedly to its effectiveness. * x % = No city takes precedence of San Fran- cisco in the beauty of its society women nor the style with which they wear their Among those whose correct taste is noticeable msy be mentioned Mrs. Will Crocker, Mrs. William V. Bryan, Miss Marie Voorheis and Miss Florence Ives, the latter a sister of Mrs. Henry Crocker. Mrs. Will Crocker's preference for the richest of black materials is o marked that I do not recotlect having seen her in public in any other color. Her favorite furs are sable and seaiskin. Mz Bryan is one of the best dressed of our younger matrons, and is frequently seen in gownas so chic that they might have just been sent from Puariz. She was recently admired of all beholders in as handsome a cape as it has been my good fortune to see this year —a double affair of black silk velvet with white applique entirely covering the shoulder portion, the edges finished with a ruffle o pleated chiffon. The col- lar, black velvet faced with white velvet, was high; black satin ribbon encircled the neck, rosetted in front and back. At either side of tne back the ribbon was carried to the bottom of the cape, termi- nating in rosettes. Stoles of chiffon in front completed this elegant garmen:, worn with a jaunty picture hat of black velvet, plumed, and edged with mink, pirk roses underlying the brim. Miss Voorheis is soon to leave off par- tial mourning and will doubtless appear in some charming gowns, Miss Ives has been n the East for several weeks and will bring back some stunning creations ifrumor be notin error. Her most strik- ing costume last season was a red moire, becoming to her brunette style. DoOROTHY QUILL. Marcella'’s Modes. I candidly siated several weeks ago that I did not aporove of plaids or blouse bodices; still I realize that some do, and so feel called upon to assist them with a few suggestions. Really artistic in its coloring is a plaid 1 which figure purple, pale yellow, black and cream. This would make up effect- 1vely if set into the smallest of tucks in groups of three at intervals. One such blouse was finished with black satin rib- bon a: throatand waist. Very becoming is a blouse of black net, with collar, bracesand epaulettes of a net, on which gleam blue-steel and jet pail- lettes; the same embroidery appears again below the soft satin belt of corn- flower bine. This satin forms the founda- tion for the entire bodice. The sleeves are the wrinkled mousquetaire in style and composed of the net with a soft puff at the top. Another model may be made in glace silk or soft satin with a yoke of veivet that permits a tiny vest of tncked mous- seline de soie. Straps of jet extend over the shoulders, and the short puffs on the sleeves have three tucks just below them, and round the wrists are three narrow rows of jet. Four yards of dark-blue surab, through which runs a zigzag line of white, made rather like a shirt waist, will make & most useful adjunct to a girl’s dark-blue serge frock. Such waists, indeed, may be worn by young or old, and with them are worn in Paris and the East dainty hemstitched coliars that are obtainable in curved or straight shapes. They encircle the neck most becomingly. ¥ine lawn collars and cuifs elaborately hemstitched are likewise 1n stvle. Our neck ribbons must sull be tied under our chins if becoming to our faces. As a result of the fashion now =0 preva- lent for our bodices belts are as greatly in favor as ever and are to bs seen composed of leather with colored enamel on their surface, Jeweled belts are highly orna- mental and much prized. Silks, satins and velvets are all used in the composition of belts with satisfactory resuits, especiaily when fastened in the front with a jewelea clasp, although oxidized silver is also liked in this capacity, so it is to be guite extensively used for buttons, which are said to look especially well on gray covert coating dress, and did I tell yon that mouse gray and brown will be the favorite colors for cloth dr-sses this winter? Blouse Suits. Blouses are absolutely being turned out by the tens of thousands, but there are blouses and blouses, and 1 have seen sev- eral stunning ones, whose owners, fortu- nately, can affori numerons changes, and so will not quickly weary of them; and at a leading store here I viewed last week some suils made with Russian blouses that as far as price and workmanship arc concerned, are quite extraordinary. For exampvle, one of fine gray cioth, handsomely braided with wide black brai1 and lined with pinkish silk, was just $75, and lying near it was a good serge, made with a jaunty jacket lined with silk, for §18. Of course, the skirt was not silk lined. Such garments are altered to fit without any extra charge, So, if you have a nice, slender figure, you can be readily suited at a com- paratively small outlay. However, on the other hand, if you happen to be plump and short-waisted; I certainly advise you to eschew ready-made jackets, as they are so difficult to alter, for once the position of a dart is changed the effectiveness 1s gone. Botices that do not match the skirts with which they are worn have been de- clared repeatedly, by the best authorities, to be out of date, and yet, in spite of such announcements, they continue to be ex- tensively worn, although without hesita- tion I admit that they make a short woman look shorter, and a plump one snould really strive toavoid the combina- tion. ror house wear blouses made of foulard, prettily patterned with a design both Oriental in outlines ana color. Blouses continue to overhang the belt in front, but in the back the gathers are drawn in closer to the figure, a though as yet they are not quite tight. Brides and Bridesmaids. The keynote for the handsomest bridal gowns ord:red for this season is extreme simplicity. The materials and trim mings e irequently very costly, but all are so blended as to convey the impression of severe simplicity. A long train is now a necessity and the princess style is being much worn, although the round waist rivals it in popularity. Such waists are finished with a narrow fold of the mater- ial that comooses the gown. Unless you have an amp'e sum to ex- pend on your trousseau do not have too expensive a wedding dress. White satin is considered the most fashionable fabric at the present moment, and even for the handsomest qualities the leading dre:smakers have found it best to use & very thin white flannel as an inter- lining for the train. All skirts must be fitted with great care. The front breadth has no darts except when absolately necessary. I have heard of an ancient lace shawl being used as drarery with delightful re- sults. In such a case the .point should reach the foot of the skirt directly 1n iroat, the ends being knotted in the back and fall over the back breadth, When thisis done there shoula bea flounce of lace or a ruche of mousseline de soie to show under the point, otherwise it will look too flat. Bodices are high in the neck as usual and generaily have a draped effect. 3uch lace is employed with satisfactory results, Brocades are outof styie for wedding dress, and for those not desiring satin there is peau de soie, which isexcellent and less expensive. It is comforting to know that tulle veils are every bit as siylish as lace cnes and I consider them far more becoming, especially to vouthful brides. The bridesmaids may this season not only wear mousseline de soie, satin, silk or peau de soie, but also cashmere and cloth. Among the new styles is colored silk | veiled with net, and some gowns this sea- son are to be made of lustrous yellow taffeta draped with yellowish net run with black velvet baby ribbon. Black velvet hats and plumes, black gloves, stockings and slippers, will com- plete these very effective costumes. The | skirts are to have comparatively few gores and will be shirred on the hips, most of | the fullness being disposed in the back. | The bodice will be very sliehtly bloused in | front, only the backs being seamless. They are to be covered with the ex-| quisitely fine, soft net, through which will run the black velvet. Much lace and 1n- sertion also figure on them, and the waist- bands will be of black velvet. The sleeves are to be plain and covered with the shirred net. Deep, full ruffles of lace will fall over the hands. A bridegroom is not expected to provide | bouquets for the bridesmaids, but if he desire be may do so. A Novel Mantle. When all Paris flocked, two weeks ago, to see Jane Hading as Leontine in the re- vival of *'Les Jocrisses de 1 Amour” most of the fashionable women wore a mantle that reached nearly to the middle of the skirt—three-quarter length—in a heavily woven material in various shades of beige, from string color to cream. This mantle is fashioned with a ruching of pleated silk so thickly pleated as to re- semble a many-leaved flower; at the | throat and at apout a quarter of a yard from the waist, beneath this ruching, falls a wide flounce cut in gores, giving little or no fuliness where it is sewn to| the cloak, but gainingin width to extraor- | dinary extent. Whetiner such are destined to become generally popular | remains to be seen, but from the descrip- | tion I should have no hesitancy in order- ing one were I moderately tall, but, of course, their successful evolution would depend entirely on the skill of the dress- maker. MARCELLA. WRECKAGE. | By HowArD V. EUTHERLAND. To be young and to be indiscreet are such synonymousterms that Mr, Phelan’s admirers can hardly blame him for hay. ing committed political hara-kiri. Only | with years do we learn that it takes a long arm to punch a high bag; that a cool | brain is better than a hot tongue, and that | playing to the gallery calls forth sneers | from the dress circle and caustic rebuke from intelligent critics. Had Mr. Phelan, | during Mr. Sutro's unprefitable ad- | ministration, not been so intent on considering bimself in connection with mantles | how little such galiery play avails in the long run. His predecessor was a striking victim to unreasoning and un- balanced age even as Mr. Phelan is a vietim to well-intentioned but in- capable youth. When the latter gentle- man was nominated for the office he now nominally holds, his capability was ex- tolled until he must have been forced into believing that he really possessed it. In language that reminded me at the time of the carefully primed show- man, the young men of California were exhorted to gaze upon his five feet five inches and see to what exalted posi- tion one of their kind conld attain by steady perseverance and—‘‘de push.” In the excitement of the moment | Iremember shouting for him. But as un- der like excitement I shouted for Mr, Taylor, the Republican nominee, and ulti- mately voted for neither, the occurrence is now noteworthy merely as a proof of my keen sense of humor, But to return to Mr. Phelan. The spec- tacle of a young man is seldom inspiring, and I fear that the youth of California | will find this to be especially true in the case of their dispirited fellow-citizen, He has causad the “‘bar” sinister to be added | to the escatcheor of the Native Sons. He | has had his fling—has flung himself back- | ward—and until his successor reigns in hi: stead will be nothing but a skeleton at | the Supervisorial feasts, clothed in the mantle of authority. There is one thing, however, that still remains for Mr. Phe- lan to do. He can turn his attention to his little pipeless fountain on Market and Turk streets, Had Senator Morgan’s speech to the Hawaiians, delivered in Honolulu on | October 2, appeared in print over the | name of Mark Twain, it wou'd bave been considered a moasterpiece of delicious humor. His statement that ““the 75,000,000 people in tue United States are not going to permit ‘foreign’ aggression” is full of an irony that must have been wasted on his meager audience. Then again, his reasoning that *‘the power to rule comes from the people, even as the strength of | Sunday | people might consider you, Miss Oogle ! | of somewhat smaller caliber. | the mayoral chair, he would have seen | | the vegetable comes from the ground,” proves to us that he 1s not unused to speaking before farmers. But what can be said of his final clincher, that ‘“America’s rezard for Hawaii is not on account of its wealth or strength, but on acoount of its progress and earnest en- deavor to advance in the true lines of civilization.” If such is really the case it beliooves the natives of the South 3eas to consider their missionaries in the light of edibles instead of attempting to profit by an example they seldom set. If annexa- tion is to be the reward of civilization it will be better for them to revert to a state of savagery. The construction of a microscope that will magnifv 3,000,000 diameters has caused no little excitement in local circles, po- litical and otherwise. Prominent Demo- | crats are assured that the mystery of Sam Rainey’s fire-engine will now be solved, that the poisonous germs in the water of Sacramento will be aiscovered, that the sources of Mr. Bryan’s rhetoric will also be made public and that it will be possible for politicians to foresee results a year ahead and so side ever with the winning party. There are rumors in the Police | Department that a new star may be added to the San Francisco force by the dis- | covery of the lost Pieiad, and that with the belp of this wonderful microscope no less than two murderers will be captured annually. Scientists are even sanguine over the discovery of Professor Andree and his ballocn, and numberless boarders are calcaiating on finding the much-abused oyster that fluvors their Sabbath soup. It may soon be customary for a man to have his love-letters written for him by his legal adviser. It is becoming danger- ous to w¥te the passionate words dictated by a palpitating heart lest they be read afterward in open court for the edification of people whose little romance is over. In writing a love-letter a youug man should count twenty after each word and limit himself to ten lines. He should place 1n. terrogation marks after any word or en- dearing term that may be used against him and he should be careful how he sub- scribes himself. The following, for in- stance, is a safe love-letter and may be uged by any one with a mind to, as I have generously refused to copyright it: Tear () Miss Oogle: I have not seen you for along time and I hope (?) to see you soon. Incidentally I would state that the same re- mark applies fo others. Did you receive the four-bit box of candy I sent you? I also sent oneof like value to Miss BIill. Can you play tne “Chewing-Gum Waltz” published in the Vilifier? Ab, how peautiful some How sad It is that beauty is only skin deeol! My mother, aunt and sisters wish you to accom- pany me to an icecream and cucumber soclal nexi Thursday. If you desire to go \lease sign the inclosed slip stating that you go of your own free will aud not under hypnotic com- pulsion. JONATHAN BIFF. The statement about the young lady's beauiy is put in so as to relieve the heart of its craving, but care should be taken not to say too much. There is one man in Oakland whose name is not as sweet unto him as it might be. That man is John E. Damm, who | has just petitionea the Superior Court to permit him to be known by an expletive Mr. Damm is willing to be called Darn, Dash, or even Demme, but plain Damm is too com- mon for him and he will have none of it. I fear, however, that by whatever name the gentleman may be known in the fu- ture his spirit will continue to be trou- bled. He will never forget that he has been irrevocably Dammed. THE QUESTION CONCERNING THE POET. How can [ pipe like a thrush or a linnet When I'm only paid space? Nope; there ain’t enouzh Init. It seems only natural that in a city where pork is thought more of than the Deity, a sausage-maker should be the most celebrated man of the hour. Luet- gert and his vat will be immortalized in song like the tun of Heidelberg; plays will be written abeut him, and the kineto- scope man will hand him down to our ar.stocratic posterity. If he only behaves h meeif and eludes the gallows he may be placed in nomination ior President or, if he aspires stiil higher, he may become Mayor of Chicago. Among his warmest admirers from now on will be the vagrant members of the canine family, for it will take a brave man 1o feast off sausages un- til Mrs. Luetgert is satisfactorily ac- counted for. A Mr. Hunt of Oakland, having been deposed from his position as city gardener, bas seen fit to petition in verse the pow- ers that be to reinstate him. It isto be Loped this custom will not become gen- eral among decapitated politicians. Much as it might improve the average job- holder to take a course in poesy in the State University, it is questionable whether the morale of the community would be improved by the publication of their effusions. When the soul of a polis tician bursts into song one is apt to be re- minded of the condition of our sewers. The sympathy of the public is extended the Alameda schoolteachers who have been forbidden wearing mourning gar- ments while fulfilling their daily duties. The reason given by the board that black clothes have a depressing effect upon the children is a nonsens.cal one and only to be expected of men occupying sucb posi- tions. Mourning garmentsars worn out of respect to the dead and children are as accustomed to them as they are to musling or any other dress stuffs. By laying down the law as to what teachers shali wear the Board of Education has overstepped the limits of its jurisdiction. The members thereof are hereby ordered to clothe them- selves in sackcloth and ashes. NEW TO-DAY. OURLATEST.CONTEST A*New Idea. $100.00 For Correct Lists, 1-0OY EEWRN 21-THULDU 2-0OKRBRYRONL 22-ATSAUUG 3—-AAIILLHHPPED 23-YNLN 24-SHIPMME 7—-TINNNICIAC names you mut send us 3 sllver quarter or 26 cents in stamps io pay for Home Treasury one full yesr. s stories, L alone are with 85 eemta silver or 36 e Petaca ncnt Woaare aet Geighio, Addresst HOME TREASURY : ” i In ita beauty. It i Somait e Bt Bne ke b g e, read very carefully, or s Parlor Or- cle, of & Goid Wateh, or & iamond Ring. We prict hers - These are letters, jum. bled, from which can be made the pames of 40 Citles In the United States. F@ exampic. 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