The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, September 19, 1897, Page 25

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 1 1897. 25 Lknow what the new hats are to be. 1 They are io range all the way from the | pert toque to the mountainous contriv- " ance for evening wear, that the ma v of the hats are | high, but broad, and re- | calia highly ornamented beret. A cu- | rious fact is that in many cases the velvet i has been gathered and Len the stitches | removed, o that the material has all the | appearance of being puckered, despitethe absence of the thread, just as the thread made it. | We are to havea novelty this year, toc, In the colors of the felts, for they app: in all the bright shades, such as the ver lightest pink, Nile green, brilliant reds and biscuit color. It is, of course, in- tended that these bright felt shapes should be trimmed with black velvet and tlack feathers, plumes being the best liked, although owl and coq teathers will also be used to a considerable extent. 1 find, however, | new round, not very Light blue velvet is one of the favo ite trimmings, and one charming little bonnet in this shade and material was trimmed in a most unique fashior. Black ostrich feathers were jormed into very tiny tips, turned downward, overlapping each other and put completely around the crown, with a couple of ram’s-nhorn tips at the side. The new ribbons are w worth se the most striking novelty be: black and colored velours. Then there are Oriental brocades, which are very effective, and shot glace with borders of conventional patiern. Almost all the new ribbons are shaded into three colors, and silk plains and striped velvets are also to be The very latest in boleros—which are still with us and seem likely to remain for some time yet—are those made of kid. This seems at first thought a queer ma- terial to use for dress purposes; but its lds embroidery ng, great virtue is that it hol extremely well and shows it to advantage, which, in the present craze for handwor! ol all kinds, is a great point gained. The foundation of kid is almost entirely hid- den by the mass of silk and gold thread put upon it in some of the many beautiful designs made for the purpose, while the colored gems scattered in profusion over the whole make a very splendid-lookiug affair alto ! A black velvet voke, with three-inch | wide black bbons attached forms ish to a silk biouse, and may be sewed on or made separate, in | which latter case it may be worn with dife ferent blouses. The ribbons are sewn fast to the yoke, four on the chest and the | same number at the back. They are then cr i over each other. forming squares over the blouse and fastened to a band at the waist, back and front, while the | are sinilarly decorated. | ts are more in favor than ever | to be universally worn, the 1 past fashion being that bid 1 only change f. all are now w A recent ada has an bolero with a deep valance of plaited taffeta puton the lower edge. This % 4 E ET. is drawn into the belt and bags htly | THE BLACK VELVET RIBBON BLOUSE. over it. J.i e vests in black faille or: weather permits will be made of astrakan, [llns on, Iam told. Tt isto be used for peau de soie wil be worn with various s imes with sleeves of the same. coats, jackets, vests, and in fact for any kinds of skirts this fall, and as scon as the ans to be extrame nable | and every purpose to which fur can be = - T - == | put. The fancy for black and white, NEW TO-DAY which has-last'd through the summer nd seems likely to run through the en- tire year, will bring ermine prominently to the front, though this fur will be used mostly for trimmings, revers, collars, eic., | where a touch of white is needed to make | a garment effective. On the other hand, the return of mixed grays and browns to poyular favor will create a demand for brown furs of all kinds, moufflon with & brownjsh cast 320[]@ — ANSWERS! iz Most Unique Contest of the Age—$200.00 Paid for | {ii 5.0 e Correct Lists Made by Supplying Missing Letters [ rompnes in Places of Dashes—No Lottery—Popular Plan of Education—Read All the Particulars. with white or iron gray, will also be worn. are And then there capes and coliars in woven aage which promise to be pretty weil short roidered fronts and panels are seen | In the United States four times as much monev I3 expended for education as for the military, iany of e new costumes, both for| Brain 1s vetter tban brawn. By our educational facilities we have become a great Na jon. We, the EvabinE - 2 = publishers of Woman's World and Jenness Miller Moathly. bave dove moch tows evening wear, though more cause of e1uCaiio + in mMANY WarS ow we offer you 87 opportunity to display your knowled for the last named. Most of | and r dy. The otjectof (hiscontest | ieas foonts the bt = ; 5 impeius 10 many ; alsowe expect his com these frouts 1or)ekiik CS0059 Pacs e Jenness for the full-pouched bodice, decorated to | correspond. The choose trom is endless, gold j*t and even aluminum a singly and in all manner of combinati | Aluminum is very desirable, for it is i and guite impeivious to changes of | weather, never tarnishing in the leas:. | Coral is snother new material which is | seen this season, and none of them is | more effective than this, Skiris with panels are favored in Paris, One costume made on this plan was of | chiselea violet velvet, with short carved lines of white ground just occasionally | seen between the violet pile, PRIZES WILL BE SENT PROMPTLY | ovens on the left side over a narrow panel | . | of white pleated armure. The richness of ed and promptly sent. We publ sh the list of words to be l“.e pIREEI precl\m.ed the i T wers, be sure to give the number of each word: trimming, and the whole effect was very good. s plen of incres pianos, medicine , books, baking aud witn (his mathematicul deu *missing le:ters' contest. HERE'S WHAT YOU ARE TO DO. Thers are thirty words I this schedule, from each of which letters have been ox their p'aces have been supplied by dashes. 70 fili inthe blank spaces and ge the nam erly you must bave some knowledge of g aphy We want you to spell out as man¥ word« as you can, then send 0 us with ce tor a three months’ subseription to WoMaN's Worip. F h ore than one per- son sends a full. corre ance. Also, it your Iist coutains twent 1a Diafond Learf Pin (for lady or gentl r price of which is ore, vour list, you are nositively ce vrize, and by being have an opportunicy of the $:00.00 cAsh aw Yors makes no difference. All have equal opj otuu fog mone powders, we shall add B¢ uction before us, B 3 e and b r corredt lists we I's., the money will be c Prizes will be honestly aw studled out. In making your list of _ A country of South .-RA- resthiey [16. B= S M - - K notearuter. Other new skirts T saw were made very 9% I 3 I_ Neme of ‘he la-gest o c T 0 o l _ Anoiher noted ! long, of black cashmere or vicuna cloth, .-A body of water. 7- _ Tuier. slightly draped over white serge, the lat- > M = D_ = E_ _A- E_ = e 18. p = H P23 U e A = 90"!“;{};’ Eu- | tor Leing either braided with black or | | baving trimmings of black velvet. These | scemed to me to be rather somber, but | might be redeemed by a judicious mix- | ture of white in the bodice. . The edict has gone forth that to be A'ST'A"_‘ A big island, < M__IN_E_,\amu of the most prominent American = M"O' Alarge river. Weil-known river of ope. [§) o A city in oneof the w 1 1 = = -_= 1 x= | O N AW N - Sovharn teates, | 21 T == A ~ One f the United Siates.. | ! Once Presidentof | fashionable one must wear a sash, and, | e ey & g & ~FE--R--0Once & | . H Actty of Canada. 22 J=F-—R N e Oared somcet generally speaking. that sash must be Noted for displey of B | el 3 reasi £l 23 u = N aaiiae black, although others are occasionally N-R-A-A -E--E--E- waler. One of the United ctates. to material, there is more it may be of velvet, satin du- seen. As choice, as s = N A noted poet. N pd -R 1- 2 2 A A forep country, same | o, taffeta, or even of some very thin 10.-A Acityof Spum. ¢ £ize as Kansas. but should have a tow of scme sort . H-V-- fl oS R -0 2targo tsiana. | at the waist to be strictly up to date. Nar- A well-known old fort Popu'ar fam. | YOW sash ends of ribbon or velvet may be 12. §-M-E- “orthctiieation -M--SW-R-D3nsam | Sorn hanging at the'side, alittle tn front Greaest fortifica- tion in the worid. O\ O bW DmEmOmM VN of the bip or just over it. As far as I can | see, the important tning seems to be to 13. G--R-L-A- 14. S- A- L E - Acrestexpiorer. 20. fi- -l =i~ i dodan: | have a sash, if not in reality at least in i g. c = L = F— e I 72 (](Ileegl:?:t‘g-n | ;0‘ M s D & G 2 s g An i:\li::’:)(:‘ne.r effect, I R HIQUITA. Marcella’s Mode. “Individuality isdesirable, but must not be confounded with conspicuousness—one is smart, the other loud,” writes a well- known authority on fashions, and as she voices my opinions I give you the benefit of a remark which, if thorou:hly compre- hended, wou'd prevent many mistakes from being made, our list of words mention whether you want your prize mosey a*nt by ar.«lx"-fifi'»'}'«'x’%du regis ered mail: we wil send auy way thai Winners require. The Egerin | ot s perfect imitacion of a Real Liamond of large size. We deiy experty to visiin- | alon ¢ from 1eal €xcept by microscopic Li every respect it aerves tue burpo.e of Genuine | gulin [ trom Sed] et Quality. 1 isait'stically mounted in a flae - old-plated pin, warranted to Diamond Of 3 Bis plece of §-welry wiil make a mostdesirab'e gifi t0a frlsnd If you do not need i | Oy at onr sUDpLY Of t lese gifia Is limited, and If they are ail gone When sour set of | yourselt. o evin we shall send you -2,23 in mouev insiead of the Scart or Shawl Fin, AT ol either recely tne p.ece 0f j-weley Of Lhe equivalent Ir cash, in acdiiion fo your paricl: 20 you sl e 200,00 cash prize. This entire off+r isan lionost one, made by a | D nsible pablisning hoise. We refer w inercantile ageacies nniany b mi inNew York- | 7 ¥ yones 10 you (f you ‘e dissadsted. Whia et \ith your is: of answer, se and exchange slight v for three brain work for cash. already | our great family magazine, Woma O st er. un i we w Il éxtend your suoscripiion from tne time the | To be smart and chic is the amb'tion of Dbscribed, mention that fac. (o , O4F le.Ler, un : your p A 4 ;‘:-:;m one expiras. To avoid loss 14 sending siiver, wrap money very carefully tn paper before in- | every fashionable woman, and only the s ciosiug ln your letter. initiated fully realize the amount of sense, JAMES H. PLUMMER, Publisher, | discrimination and taste that involves. may be worn throughout the entire year with perfect comfort. With surprise and strong disapproval I have heard of the advent of the Half Low-Cut Bodice, Which is being welcomed only by those who have beantiful throa:s and love nov- elty, for I think the author was perfectly correct who once said that every inch taken from the neckband of a street cos- tume detractea so much from the dignity of the wearer. It is not likely that this fad will last long, as wintry winds will drive all to their usual collars and stocks, of course with the moditications and changes dic- tated by fashion. However, very effec- tive gowns for teas and afrernoon recep- tions will be worn all winter with the low- cut neck, proviled that those who ere no longer younz remember that age does wither the space between chin and breast. This autumn, at least, the stylish East- ern girl will wear the half low-cut bodice, but no maiter how beautiful the neck the owner's whole appearance will be unpleasingly affacted if she wears a large hat with ruching at bust line or shoulder to balance the hat. The boa is universally becoming, as have been the ribbon bows and fine frills worn at the back of the neck, because they balance the various structures, big and little, that women put on their heads. Indoors and hatless the owner of a pretty throat can most becomingly display it. | Aslongasthismnde lasts the demand for feather boas will be greater than ever, and wealthy women will not hesitate to | order a different one for each out of aoors | toiler. The averaze woman must contént herself with a handsome one of gray 0s- | trich feathers and a szcond one o: equelly | good black ones. Indeed these two are absolute necessities if you pretend to fol- | low the fashions. At the Oszen races tome absolutely charming frocks were in evidence. One of foulard was of the new shade known as | fruit cro, or unripe frnit. On it wasa white pattern and around the bottom of | the skirt was a large ruche of fringed out foulard. At the back was a long scari sash of black gauze, with satin stripes, which tied at the back. The bloused bodice of this gauze, made over green silk, had @ jibot of green gauze edged with white, and the Louis XV sleeves reached only to the elbows and were gathered at repular distances. With this was worn a beret togue of green straw, having pink anda green hydrangeas and black aigrette. This toilet is specially mentioned for its chic, but had I seen it 1 would have omitted a description, as I do think that a waist of the same fabric as the skirt made in a dainty way would have been in better taste. ; Another said {o have been lovely was of porcelain-blue gauze, striped with Mechlin insertion, over silk of the same color, the bodice being entirely of Mechlin lace over silk, with lace epaulets and bows of blue ribbon. Admirable were the long tucked sleeves, and on the black hat of satin straw were remarkably beautiful feathers. Shoes of kid, matching the gauzs, looked extremely well. Indeed we are assured that ere long we will wear shoes matching every costume. Imagine the joy of the shoemakers. Completing this admirable costume wa« a parasol of white lace over opal-blue silk. As taffetas glace wili continue to be worn, & sky-blue one with white is inter- esting. A quantity of small flounces of embroidered tulle adorn the skirt, beaded | with a bluoe-silk rucbe. The bodice of blue silk is completely covered with lace. The latest tailor gowns seen at the most | fashionable seaside resorts are of sensible | serge, but not suca serge as most of us are ek THE NEW PETTICOATS. ing is stylish that is generally worn, so I have been wondering how long stripes and pluids will find favor with well-gowned women. Every store has tempting arrays of such fabrics that may be had in fairly good weaves from 90 cents to $275 per yard, and already half the women we nieet are | wearing striped or plaided (the piaided are the newest) waists and skirts. 80 although very becoming and beautiful | Ithink ere long we all will be tired of them and only the high-pricsd ones will hold their own throughout the season. Speaking of wooien goods the *land of brown heath’’ and “shaggy wool” is ready to furnish a large stock of stuffs of charm- Ing designs and color. Many are checked in brown and white and black and white, others are of neutral tints with the stripes crossing and recro-sing in color, while others again are designea of mixed threads, the whole effect being a neutral tone, till a close inspection reveal the threads of fine vivid color that run through it in all directions. The colors are certainly unique, and owe, I have been informed, their beauty to the peat smoke in which these weavers work, and to the vegetable dyes which they pre- pare with such rare care and skill. A gown well made of such a material will ceriainly be smart and remarkably serviceable throughout all the winter, for but few such weaves will reach our shores. Serges of all the finer grades will be much worn—for admirable garments may be made from them by first-class’ 22 and 24 North Willlam Street (Departmant527). New York City: N. Y.j Also, as I have irequently remarked, noth- tailors and in this climate such gowns acquainted with. That to which I allude is as fine as cashmere, and it is lined with white striped silk, tlue and white cerise and white, with a narrow tlack line here and there, and braided either all white or white and black in most rer‘ect floral de- signs. Herecan be manifested the wearer's taste, and it has peen found that iarge, full carnations, with their thin stems, are far more effective in flat braiding than violets or daisies, however well they may be repreduced. Most of these new braided costumes are ornamented with poppies, roses and other pronounced flowers that lend themselves to broad treatment, in preference to the merely preity designs. ‘Where the black braid is introduced it is chiefly in the centers of the floral de- signs. Very success'ul, likewise, are two cos- tumes, just completed, which are braided entirely with black and shaded grays for centers. . Most of the braided white confections are with loose blouse jackets and basque; large revers, either crossing in front or fastening with loops and long buttons, down the center. The skirts are trimmed around the bottom or down the two seams of what is calied the apron. These slants are brought much nearer together. than they were during the spring, for it bas been ascertained that a narrow apron takes away from the appearance of width, and as most womeu naturally desire to Jook small below the waist the discovery will pe widely welcomed. The descriptions of the coats and skirts now being worn read very much like those written last year. However, 1n reality, NEW TO-DAY—DRY GOODS. IN LIQUIDATI ANOTHER CUT ===CONTINUES==- OUR GREAT PRICES ON SALE! The UNPRECEDENTED and UN- ABATED SUCCESS of LIQUIDATION SALE now being held to settle the estate of the late J. J. O’Brien is conclusive proof of the EXTRAORDI- NARY VALUES offered throughout the MAGNIFICENT STOCK AND ELEGANT GOODS now being closed out, and guarantees an equal if not greater rush of customers this week in response to the following and many other Still Greater Attractions Offered! GREAT our oft. STYEISH 5()c—LADIES' FLANNSLETTE C™ regular price $1, on sule a ored stripes, lined and bound, $2.9 $4.9 tr.mmed with fur, re; —LADIES’ FRIEZE JACK c. $1,25LADIES' VICUNA WRAPPERS, assorted . with braid, regular price $250, on sale at $1 25 75¢—LADIES’ DRESS SKIRTS, in black fizur:d monair and fancy col- —LADIES’ PLUSH CAPES ular price $5, on sate at §2 90. storm coliar, reguiar price $7 50, on sale at §1 95. 3OWNS, assorted patterns and colors, lors, nicely trimmed regular price §1 25, on sale at 7ac. , nicely beaded storm collar and fronts STS. in tan mixtures, shield front and Murphy Building, Market and Jones Stregts. no ome at allup in fashions would make the mistake of considering a lastautumn’s frock stylish, so different are the cloths employed. It may truiy be declared that cloth is the material of the day, and many are the varieties we are called upon to ad- mire. Among the loveliest is the Amazon, which is soft and velvety in texture and can be obtained in complete sca'e of biues. with the exception of the shade known as “sky,” but the satin clotbs and cache- mires will be likewise in demand, the reds, blnes and gr:ens being much in vogue. Very fair women will be pleased to learn that the prune shade so becoming to most of them will azain be seen this winter, but it has undergone a modifica- tion, I may say, for it has now a more biuish cast than a red. Novel Fabrics. The epingline is the latest novelty and is described as a finely ribbed cachemire cloth, with the raised lines designed obliquely instead of perpenaicularly. Numerous have teen the attempts lately made to introduce plaids of all descrip- tions for dresses, but they assuredly do not seem to please the Parisians, for asfar as walking costumes are concerned they are extremely conservative, and it must be acknowle Iged that they look remark- ably smart and chic in perfectly cus gowns 1n black or dark blue, these being strictly tailor made. When a thin cloth is used narrow flounces encircle the skirt from the waist to the Dbottom; thes» are graduated in size. The bodice is composed of silk that exactly maiches the cloth in shade, and is inserted with a narrow passementerie. Long revers of silk upon a cloth bolero complete the costume, the sleeves of which are flounced from armhole to wrist, all the ruffles being small and of the same width. Much admired are the latest Parisian visiting frocks of dark red or grenat cloth embroidered with black peonies. Piaids in black and greens and in the shades known as zibelines are being made up by excellent dressmakers, but they are certainly not admirable pur- chases for the matron or the maid who has a limited wardrobe, as they are con- spicuous and not always chic. Sleeves are smaller than ever, the least possible fullness only being ailowed at the shoulder. The only fashion of giving a little width to the upper portion of the bodice, making tuhe waist appear smaller and rounder, is the arrangement of the lace collars and revers. These start from the throat and fall in squares over the shoulders. The revers are made once more in the Directoire style, wide, square and higher, and on evening gowns are frequently covered with tiny tulle ruch- ings or are borderea with guipure. The pale chine musling now worn by well-gowned women are made over white taffetas, and are trimmed either with bands of guipure upon the skirt and bodice, or with interminable rows of n: row black velvet. At last the rage for black velvet lines, vertical, diagonal and intricate, is dying out, I believe, although there is a report that we are threatened with a craze for velvet lines on satin cioths in place of the braiding so popular this sprine. An evening bodice reported to be pretty is of black and white silk (the skirt is of the same fabric), the black line very nar- row and the white nearly aninch in width, The revers are of the lightest blue slk completely covered with tiny frills of dead white lace; there is a vest of the blue treated in the same way and round the waist is a belt of blue siik, the color scarcely being visibleso ciosely isit jetted. MARCELLA, ‘s Murphy Building, Market and Jones Streets. Her Conclusion. “There’s one thing, however, that I can’t auite understand,” said the Rev. Mr. Choker. “What's quired. “Why, it is this: Every time I getback to my cnurch after being away upon a va- cation the members of the congiegation seem to be even better than they were be- fore [ left.” *Well,”” the thoughtless lady said, "I suppose it is only natural that the rest should benefit them as well as you.”— i Cleveland Laader. that?” Mrs. Van Scadds in- NEW TO-DATYT! PATTOSIEN’S Removal Carpet Sale. But Two Weeks - More Of This Sale. Then if Our i New : : Quarters, corner 16th and Mission Streets, will be ready for us. During these two weeks prices will be lower than ever. Carpets, Rugs and Curtains actually sell~ ing at cost. We don’t wantto take a single tiring to the new store. We want to start in with everything new. REMOVAL PRICES. £1.25 Axminster Carpets....95¢ $1.73 Genuine Bigelow Ax- minster Carpets......... $ 50c Heavy lenms.. 12¢ New Chi; 40c Iugrain Carpet. 65¢ Tapestry Brusse Big bargains in Rugs—lat terns of Smyrna, Moquette, Sakai and Axminster Rugs. e Pattosien’s, Sixteenth and Valencia Streets, Mail Orders Shipped Promptly. Lino- Scotch i | | S. F- CUT THIS OUT. The only one by which you can make a gar- ment without trying on. PERFECT PATTERNS. 1079 MARKET STREET. or FADED HATR RESTORED to vouthful color and beauty by DR. HAYS' HAIR HEALTH. Re- moves dandruft and sealp disease. Don'c stain skin. Covers BALD spyts. Absolutely harmless. bottles 50 cen ts, at druggists. Ketail agents, SENTA H MY R ket s W hol ) & CO.; LANGLEY & MICH ELS; COFFIN, REDINGTON & CO.