The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, August 8, 1897, Page 27

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL. SUNDAY AUGUST 8, 1897 Thue latest fad of fashion is bo:h sensibis | and economical as well as charming, It| is lace and ribbon trimming. Not that this sort of trimming is in use for the first time, but it is the initial occasion when it has been ceclared the tning to use. Such dainty effects are obtained with it, ard it can be carried out to advantagze by ple whose purses are either long or For the summer girl it is particularly ex- ceilent, inasmuch as when properly con- trived it imparts exactly that floffy effect s0 dear 1o her heart. i In spite of the fact that the tariff on | ks bae been raised—it is the one thine at the women know about the new tariff | bill—silks have never been cheaper than they are now, and particularly the plain and figured silks known as Chinese Japanese and Indian. It isto these, p haps, that the lace and ribbon trimming forms the most charming garniture. I Certainly all sorts and kinds appear at present, ranging from five-inch silk ribbon and foulard to printed gauze and mous- seline de soie, but of whatever material, invariably havinglongbroad ends. If the <ash is of foulard, it consists simply of a p of the silk draped e waist and loosely tied either at side or at the back, and having < reaching almost to the foot of tever else is variable, one thing certain—the sash must be of a ade from that of the dress with which it is worn. This is absolutely indispensable if one wants to be truly tashionable. A decided contrast, too, is dered the correct thing, a black or white dress being brightened with a pink, | blue, green or red sash, while that worn on a gray dress will be either mauve or green. linings is falling off end the demand for black is increasing, and ae a novelty tan is being asked for. The finer mantles still require fancy linings in all silk, | For millinery velvet seems to have been '\ taken up, principally as velours miroir ! and velours soleil, in which form it will | be used extensively for ladies’ hats. This | 15 shown by the early Paris models. Re- | garding the fashionable shade in this arti- | cle, a changs seems to have taken place, | While red is falling off considerably and light greens and bluets remain in favor, there is an unexpected demand for beige, tan, castor and grays, which, however, | can only be obtained in small quantities, | Fancy velvets wiil make their appearance again this season, The prevailing style in hodices is a loose | banded blouse, which opens in the front | to show a vest. This fashion has been | very generally approved of, but the very LINEN LAWN DRESS — The skirt of this dainty gown is gathered to a round yoke-shaped ce formed of insertion. pi and a yoke and corselet of lace insertion sewed together. This is worn over a foundation skirt of taffeta. The sleeves are formed of tucks alternating The corsage has flat tucks with insertion. White straw hat trimmed with daisies and ribbons. Child’s dress of batiste with surah sash, well to remember also when speaking of this combination that both are as appro- yriate for winter as for summer, and, therefore, exceedingly economical, espe- cially in the form of a teagown. Its style does not change, and 8o a summer bargain in siik and irimming is justas good for midwinter as for the time of purchase. ifteen yards of 22-inch silk will suffice for a teagown having a Waiteau back and full front, and a yard and a half less will do when this broadly plaited back is not 1sed. The first of two very pretty gowns in this style ls simply a close princess with a demi-train and the upper part of the front shirred at the neck and again at a point below the waist line. A bertha formed of six square tabs, wider over the shoulders, is edged with lace and inser- tion and the collar corresponds. Collar- band and belt are of ribbon. The sleev:s liave s puff at the top, an elbow ruffle and are also trimmed with lace at the wrist. Boft woolen goods, such as cashmere, would also be very effective for this pur- pose, particularly with lace and ribbon or ivet trimmings. The second teagown of China silk has a separate Watteau back ortrain and loose princess fronts shirred in a tiny square yoke at the neck. This i outlined with a larger yoke effect of lace inserting, and edged with lace form- ing scarfs, extending to the belt of satia rivbon. There is a full ruche of lace around the throat and at the wrists, The leeves are full at the top and have deep cuffs of the laes to correspond. Bouth the gowns described are of plain silk. but fig- ured material is also used with zood effect. The sash is very much in evidence on all the up-to-date summer gowns, and 11 the fashion should be continued in velvet for fall use, it will enliven many a woolen 20Wn—hut thay of course is gpobhmouc. | Embroidered dresses on all occasions where a stylish toilet is required are ereatly in vogue. A very pretty one was composed of cream white tulle de soie jover a cream white pleated underskirt, the tulle skirt being embroidered with garlands of delicate pink wild roses and foliage marvelously true to nature. These garlands rose at intervals round the skirt | from hem to waist, the front width being entirely covered by the embroidery and framed on either side by a shell pleating of cream white English point lace, form- ing a tablier, The special feature in garnitures this season is a square yoke, Itmay be varied in design, but it must remzin a voke. Bome are very deep and cover the dress from one armhole to the other, and then comes a short one, leaving a deep space between it and the collar. Still others ‘bnvs tiny pieces, recalling the bolero of last season, running under the arms, and vet another pattern finishes with a straight band ruuning down either side to the belt. The real noveity in yokes, however, is an irregular effect, where one side differs These yokes are in jet, colored beadsin brilliant red, green and violet tints; deli- cate evening colors such as corail and crystal, turquoise enameled in gold, black, and so on indefimtely. Mousselaine grounds and burned-out grounds are equally handsome, and there is a bril- liant, silvered, four-sided bead called the diamant. For the lower grade of jackets and man- tles the fashior is turning to plain lin- ings, mostly merveilleux, rhadames, serges and satins in piece dyed goods, while a very fair demand exists fot yarn. from the other in pa:tern and length. | newes' is a bodice cut up on either side, discovering a silk underbodice, and unit- ed by gold buttons. A very pretty white one was thus mingled with blue and had a horizontal band on the skirt, the sleeves being tucked at intervals all the way down. Many blue drills are made in this style, and many more take the form of a full blouse opening down the side and middle. An innovation in the employment of white silk is all important. Until of late white :atin and whie silk were not atall considered snitable for morning wear, but this is no longer the case. The parasols are made Lo match, generally unlined, but all the dresses are lined, or have distinct linings, and generally of a color. The rately embroidered with cord or covered with guipare. Black lace over white is very much in favor, Chantilly being the most popular lace for the purpose, and sash scarfs of soft silk or black ribbon are worn with such costumes. HAutumnal Predictions. It does seem rather early for autumnal predictions, but a few are now beginning to reach us, which I hasten to give you the benefit of, as several excellent sales are now in progress by which you may profit if you make a mental note of the fact thau ve.vet 1s to be very exiensively worn--not a cheap, ordinary quality, that 1s not worthy of even a moment’s consid- eration, for if you wear velvet see that it is of the best, or satisiy yoursell with some less amb:tious fabric. Not only plain | velvet will be in vogue, but brocaded as { well as frise velvet, and velvet embellished by patterns of guipure. dyed satins, The craze for Ignxm-oolondl ‘We are assured that fashion's leaaers | yokes of the white gowns are often elabo- | will be gowned in sumptuous garments, and that never before have such extrava- gant models been created by the great dressmakers, who have let a favored few know that the princess gown is to at last obtain that favor it has been threatening us with for about a year. This announce- ment is ail very well, but certain figures the princess gown does not suit, and not a few have always regarded it as merely an efaborately modeled tea gown, not at all suitable for formal occasions, so 1ts success will be limited. The Victorian modes are being most charmingly modified by several great de- signers. As a natural resuit the fichus, furbelows and frills of long ago are being readily adopted by our fin-de-siecle maid- ens, whoimpart to them a certain air and style quite their own, that may be de- scribed as charming as well as chic; and, speaking of frills, how popular they are. We adorn our frocks of muslin, silk, mouse seline de soie, chiffon, etc., with them, as well as our cloaks, our petticoats and nightgowns, Indeed, they are to be seen and admired on the short and the tall, the thin and the stout maiden alike, for,in one case they run up and down and in the other round and round. Chiffon and Laces. We all dearly love our chiffon and be- stow even more affection on our laces, of which we would fain have more, but the price deters us, for none but (he beautiful and most cobwebby have powerful attrace tions. Now, have you stopped to think how very costly in the end is a dress, say of white chiffon, how many yards are con= sumed in its creation, how seldom it ean be worn and still retain a vestige of fresh- ness; really in the end how much less costly wonld good lace be. I kaow the | tirst outlay is very considerable, but if you can zfford it in every case purchase ace; it will wear almost forever, an ex- perienced lace-yorker always being able to cateh a broken thread, and clean it so as to make it just as good as the day you bought it. The dear debutante is sweet- est in simple muslins and chiffons, but after two or three seasons have passed | +he will appreciate the lace and find that a substantial sum invested in it is most satisfactory. Very shortly we must bestow our atten- tion on Evening Cloaks, So if you should discover in vour shop- ping tours a good piece of light-lined satin or brocade secure it at once, for a plece of white antique satin traced with ecru lace outlined with steel, and this frilled with real duchess lace and lined with ivory satin, will make a really teau- tiful garment. For the same purpose is crepe de chine being used. One such cloak has a border of pale pink ro with their foliage, and all around is a deep-knotted silken fringe. The crepe em- ployed 1s dead white. Such a one can readily be evolved from one of the large old crepe shawls so fashionable so many years ago The one I alluded to had round the neck a most becoming ruche of chiffon, the ruffles of which were edged with lace. I have just seen a piece of pale green satin, sprayed with large fleur de Iis, which is to be made up into an opera cloak; the lining is to be of a green tone. | Deep lace will form the great Elizabethan collar, but perhaps you will see it before the winter season is over, as it will cer- tainly be a great success. | The Diaphanous Sash | Is one of the prettiest novelties intro- | duced to us this season, but, alas, it is far from being inexpensive, being composed of either muslin, chiffon or mousseline de soie and edged with a very narrow lace. It has tucks on the hem—some have twenty inches of each end covered with Jace and insertion, and the more elaborate the prettier. Last week I admired a dark blue and white fculard that had a sash of dark blue mousseline de soie, much trimmed with white lace, and at a dinner, the same evening, I commented on the effectiveness of a cream-white chiffon sash trimmed with black lace and insertion, which was worn with a black Brussels net dress made over white silk. Naturally sasnes of ribbon have been ousted from favor by these dainty conceptions, but glace ribbon waistbands continue in fashion, for the pouched bodice demands some sort of a belt, and as all the newest bodices are pouched the dressmakers have been racking their brains for novelties, The most attractive thus far discoversd and also the most costly consists of enam- eled medallions set round with diamonds and united with narrow chains, A Charming Toilette And a very novel one as well was recently greatly admired. It was worn by a woman noted for her beautiful dresses. This especial one is composed of three skirts, one above the other. The first is of rose- colored silk chiffon, the second of mauve chiffon and the third of white Mechlin lace. These delicate hues shade and blend into one another a truly delightful and beautiful way. The boaice is of the Mechlin lace over pale rose mlk, which forms the founda- tion for the entire gown. The yoke is un- lined and most exquisitely bordered witn cilver spangles. A sash scarf of mauve chiffon, eaged with the svangled a‘e, | falls on the skirt. Can you imagine a ‘\ more chic conception? The Latest Gowns Now being sent bome from the lead- | ing dressmakers are having their skirts made plain on the hips, either without ornament or else with very smali flounces or lace insertions. The blouse style of bodice prevails, much trimmed, but outlining the waist well, and small boleros are stiil being made. For traveling or morhing wear in the country plain canvas and cashmere skirts are liked, and with them are worn blouse bodices of a heavy net or grenadine gzauze. Usually they are striped across with very narrow black velvet ribbon, the long close-fitting siceves, full at the top, being treated in & similar manner. With such costumes are Worn very smart short jackets of material that matches the skirts. Such jackets have small basques and open in front. A very swell costume of red tinen has a plain skirt. At the top, with the aid of black and white braid, is simu- lated a sharply pointed basque; the same braiding appears on the sort of bolero bod- ice and the close-fitting uggder bodice is 1 | of white si'k, with stripes made of black | satin ribbop. At the prerent moment cvery French woman who can wear orange wears an orange gatze blouse, adorned with zigzags of black velvet. The foundation is of orange silk. Such a blouse is declared to | be suitable to wear with a truly remarka- ble number of skirts. At all events, it is quite “the thing.” Yachting Costume. The best I have seen for a long time emanates from a well-known house and is really worthy of our consideration, as not a few of us go yachting, and thisgown can be quite readily made if the descrip- tion is closely followed. The short mata- dor jacket is, like the resi of the costume, of navy biue serge, but it bhas also a weli- shaped, moderate-sized white drill sailor collar. Thisis worn over a loose blouse of blue and white striped serge; tiny gold anchor buttons, with buttonholes em- broidered in whitg silk, serve to fasten the jacket, and a sailor knot of red silk gives a welcome touch ot color. On the sleeves a blue and white braiding is most effect- ively employed. The skirt has somewhat the appearance of a long tuaic draped overa petticoat of blue and white hori- zontally striped serge. A blue and white braid shows where the tunic overlaps the side, and sets of small anchor buttons with the long embroidered holes are also here introduced. The sailor hat is of white straw trimmed with soft puffings of blue and white spotted chiffon. At the lefu side is a very handsome aigrette and two shaded wings. Next the hair at one side is a puff of white chiffon. Chit-Chat. At this season of the year the effect of the sun and wind on the face is severely felt, especially by those who go boating a great deal or ride bicycles. It is best be- fore starting out to rubsome harmless emollent on theface. One simple prepa- ration ¢omes in little tubes and consists merely of nhoney, jelly and glycerine, which is neither sticky nor greasy. This shoula be applied directly after washing the face, before drying; then wipe the face with a scf towel. Three Beautiful French Hats. The first is of a most beautiful shade of pink satin straw. It has a beret crown of pink taffetas, covered with pink gauze. On the left side are three handsome up back is a bunch of the finest roses, that shade from pink to ruby. Most picturesque is a great Rembrandt chapeau composed of white Zeddo straw. 1t has a twist of Mechlin lace. This is not ruched, tut very full. Itencircles the crown. A bunch of white feathers and an aigrette spring from the left side, but at the back, resting on the hair, isa cluster of pink rosebuds. The third is quite a large toque of corn- flower blue straw, which has a rolled edge; a wreath of poppies of the same hue surround it, and at the very edgeis a little bouillonne of blue gauze and a tuft of feathers with a paradise plume. Veils. Perhaps on account of the doctors’ re- marks concerning spotty veils the very latest from Paris are of & soft white silk net; some have white lace braid borders; many still cling to veils having minute almost invisible patterns, but those blessed with good complexions show a de- cided inclination not 10 wear veils. How- ever, I confess the strong winds tan and sadly burn the most delicate skins, Those who go boating, etc., with impunity and declare they never burn or freckle have unusually—what shall Isay? I willnot complete my remark. Draw jour own conclusions. At all events, [ am an ad- vocate for protecting the face, as it is not easy to get rid of even simple little freckles. : MARCELLA. Maria Theresa, mother of Marie An- toinette, whiled away her-idle hours by doing embroidery. from her royal fingers is being repaired at present in Vienna, and it has beon an- nounced that several hands, at work con- stantly for ten years, will be required to restore the beautiful handiwork to its original state. —_————— The shifts to which Queen Elizabeth re- sorted to look ana feel young were calcu- lated to open the otherwise strong woman to pratty general ridicule, although not a hint of that ridicule could ever be shown in the presence of the august lady. When she appeared In public many coats of pink paint—Ben Jonson says that the color was often vermilion—smeared her face, neck and shoulders, aud a wig_of bright red hair covered her head. Under her per- sonal direction a flattering portrait of her- elf was publishea by her sergeant painter nd her subjects were warned, under ex- treme ally, not to show & true likeness | of their vain ruler, P ir v | Large Hat With Ostrich and Paradise Plumes Starting From Roses. Prince of Wales plumesand at the turned- | A piece which came | | | ; Fifty yearsago the marriage of the lovely | | Mary Anne Jerv's, daughter of Lord St | Vincent and one of the reigning beantics ; of London, to Mr. Dyce-Sombre, the mil- | lionaire son of a Sco‘ch soldier of fortune and of an Indian Princess, exci ed such a | storm of indignation in English society of | every class that it even found expression in the columns of the metropolitan press, | the London Times in varticular devoting | a lengthy leader to a scatliing condemna: ; tion of sich ‘‘unnatural and unholy | matrimonial elliances.”” Te-day, how- | ever, the infinicely more objectionable | | mateh le'ween Prince Victor Dhuleep | | Sing and Lady Ann Coventry, voungest | | daughter of the Earl and Countess of | Coventry, is made a sufject of general | congratulation in English society and has | called forth mary expressions of approval | | in the daily and weekiy newspapers of the | | United Kingdom. Yet Dyce-Sombre had | a mixture of good Scoteh and princely Indian blood in his veins, whereas Prince Victor is, save for a slight German strain, wholly an Oriental, and is of a lineage that | the most eminent [ndian authorities unite in describing as infinitely more plebeian than illustrious. Prince Victor is the eldest son of the | late Maharajah Dhuleep Singh, who for a | time was a conspicuous figure at the court | of St. James, but who died in France | thoroughly discredited, disgraced and in- solvent. The lata Maharajah was not the real but only the adopted son.of the | famous Ruunjeet-Singh, Kingof the Pun- | j'ub. The latter, on his death in 1839, wus succeeded, by bis lecitimate heir, Shere Singh, who reigned until he was assassin- ated four years later by a band of conspir- ators, headed by the Punjaubes Prime Minister of the day, who placed on th- & | Sy throne in his stead the 10-year-old Dhu- | leep. According to Sir Lepel Griflin and | other equally recognized authorities on | Indian affairs Dhuleep Singn was the off-| spring of a slave in Runjeet’s harem and | of a stableman. The authenticity of his | adoption by Runjeet is open to question, | and if he was placed upoa the throne after | the murder of Shere Singh by the latter’s | assassin it was merely because they con- sidered the low rank of his mother and | his own youth would render him an easy instrument through which to administer | the government of the country during his ! minority. For six years Dhuleep reigned, but did not rale, the history of the Punjaup dur- ing that brief period being one uninter- rupted succession of acts of hostility | against the English Government, until finally the British authorities made up their minds to annex the kingdom, and to [ incorporate it into what is known as| | Queen Victoria’s Indian’ empire. A Brit- | ish Governor of the Punjaub was appoint- ed, the contents of the Lahore treasury | being transferred to Calcutta, while the | famous Giamond known as the Kohinoor, | which had been the chief crown jewel and most highly prized possession of | Runjeet, was assigned by virtue of a spe; | cial treaty with the Punjaub chieftzins to | Queen Victoria, who wore it as a brooch | during the recent jubilee festivities in | London and at Windsor. Instead of re- fusing to recognize the very questionable rights of Dhuleep to the throne of Pun- | jaub the English Government treated | bim as ii he had been ihe legitimate | sovereign of that country and sccorded to | him an cllowance of $200,000 per annum | {on the condition of his residing in Eng- | Jand ana behaving properly. Agreeably surprised and more than sate i-tied by this.arrangement Dhuleep sailed for England via Egypt, and while at Cairo contracted according to Christian rites a marriage with a M s3 Bamba Mul- ler, daughter of & German missionary and a woman of the Coptic race, which Ia tier is by all odds the least agreeable as well as the most servile of all the people in Baypt. Prince Victor, to whom Queen Vicloria stood godmother, is the eldest son of this union, and his boyhood and youth were passed amid surroundings which were bardly calculated to fit him for the re- sponsibilities of modern English life. For his father added to Oriental extrav- agance the ingenious devices of modern ‘Western people of fashion, forgetting the best of creditors and evading pecuniary Almbilitiss. ‘The monetary scrapes in which INTERMARRIAGES. Ex-Attache Writes Contemptuously on Recent Miscegenatic Matings in the Old World. the Maharajah became involved were un® ending. Time and again the English Govern- ment came to his rescue : nd helped bim out of his dificulties until finally he was informed that it could do sono longer. Thereupon he renounced his aliegiance to Great Britain, resigned his membership of the London elubs to which he belonged, transferred his abode to Paris, and thence wrote an exceedingly insulting lets ter to Queen Victoria, demanding the res- toration of the Kohinoor diamend, and at the same time informing her that he had abandoned the Christian religion to which he had become converted at the time of martiage, and had returned to his ola- fashioned and Oriental form of worship. He capped the matier by sailing for India with the avowed intention of raising the ‘standard of revo!t among bis former subjects against the English, who, how- ever, stopped him at Aden and compelied him to return to Europs. On reaching Paris he threw himselt into the arms of the Irish Invincible party, and accompa= nied one of them to Moscow, whare he made a vain attempt to enlist the sympa- thies of the Muecovite Government and of the Panslav Society in his behalf. Thoroughly disheartened by his failure he resumed once more his residence on the banks of the Seine, where repeatsd | seizure of his effects by his creditors and | the refusal of all credit on the part of tradesmen, rendered aware by the news- papers of his financial circumstances, in- duced him at length to crave the pardon of Queen Victoria and of her Government, who restored to him his former allowance until his death, about six years ago. His first wife, the mother of Prince Victor, had been deserted by him without re- sources when he renounced the Christian religion and his allegiance to Queen Vic- toria. She died shortly afterward, broken- hearted, her demise being quickly fol- lowed by his marriage at Paris to an Eng- | tish woman belonging to the lower middle classes, and who now survives as his | widow. Prince Victor himself has a relatively smeil allowance from the British Govern- ment. He served for a time in the Eng- lish army as subaltern in a cavalry regi- raent in England and on the staff of the commander-in-chief of Canada, where the impression leit on his departure was not of the most favorable description. How- ever, he is popular in English society, which, in spite of his father's shortcom- ings, has accepted him with open arms, this being in a great measure due to his close and intimate friendship with young Lord Carnarvon, whose inseparable com- panion he was until the Earl’s marriage a year ago. Prince Victor's bride-elect is a remarkably handsome girl, who has in- | herited the comeliness for which both her | fatber’s and mother’s families are jusily | renowned. Her eldest brother, Lord | Deerhurst, is married to Miss Bonynge of San Francisco, while her first cousin, Earl of Craven, is likewise the husband of an American girl, namely, the daughter of | Mr. and Mrs. Bradley Martin of New York. In striking contrast with the goodwill accorded by English society to Prince Victor was the hostility displeyed to Mr. Dyce-Sombre when he became tue son-in- law of Lord 8t. Vincent. His father was, as stated atove, a Scotchman of the name of David Dyce, who was the original of George Middiemas in Sir Walter Scott’s well-known novel, “The Surgeon’s Daugh- ter.” David Dyce went out to India in t'ie service o! the East India Company, which, however, he speedily deserted for that of the King of Oude, then at war with England. Suspected of bhaving partici- paied in the infamous Patna massacre, he contrived to escape after the bittle of Buxar and married the Begum, or native | Queen of Sombre-Sirdhane. Both e and his wife then waged war against Wellingtou, but subsequently came to terms with him. EX-ATTACHE. NEW TO-DAY! THE GOLDEN GATE (loak & Suit House. SILVERMAN BROCS., Successors to the Paragon Cloak Co. 1230 - 1232 Market St Continuation of Alteration Sale. Everything Must Be Forced Cut. All-Wool Suits wort! at. oth Suits worth 34.95 Stylish Suits. al! t g/ worth $20, to cluse at.. Duck Suits worth $2 to close 7 50 CAPES $a.50 00 5515 7 §7.26 SKIRTS. SKIRTS. very T, S Sum e 4= 84,96 $8.50 i d Silk N 1\ Bl Tt (nroogh. siTk 1iaed, w rth 818 50, to close at. Figured Alpaca Skirts at, 95 $2.25 100 Tan Jackets, velvet collar, ssc ‘worth 2 50, to close at. ; Golden Gate Cloak & Suit House, 1232-1232 MARKET ST. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR ON THE FEMALE FACE, On men’s cheeks above the beard line. moles, warts, biackheads, red noses, freckies and all facial blem- ishes permaneatly and inlessly h El RIC & desiroyed by _the NEEDLE OPERATION. Send stamp for our free book. 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