The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 20, 1897, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, . 18917. UNE 20, King Solomon remarked a few centuries | ago, “There is nothing new under the sun,” in spite of the fact that he hada goodly number of wives, but fortunate’y they wore garments that varied but httle in style from year to year, and for this fact be should have been duly thankful, for of s truth so rapidly do modes change that a long purse is requisite if one desires to keep up with the procession led by Dame Fashion and her gay and fickle sprites, who rave over the charms ofa | vogue. dsinty dream-like creation in the morn- | ing, only to trample it under foot in the | evening, as some new triumph demands their instant homage. Now these airy creatures are declaring that a certain frock of accordion-pleated mousseline de soie is wonderfully beantiful, for bands of the mousseline alternate with bands of Chan- tilly, the bottom of the skirt being fin- 1shed with a tiny ruching of net, edged with narrow satin ribbon. At the throat is & pleated collar of pink satin, with a ! dressmaker—most fetching creations out ! of side under a cloud of white tulle and two | pale pink roses. The tulie also drapes the | brim, and equally dainty is another made by a crumpled straw, dotted -with dia- | monds, a single black and a single white | feather only adorns it; but, oh, the air of | An old gold straw is in its way quite as attractive, for around the crown | is a profusion of biack featners and en nache at the s Golden siraws with black trimmings are enjoying a great Tea Gowns. At least one such gown figures in the wardrobe of every matron nowadays, ard most of our belles are not insensible to their charms, for whether they drink tea or not all appreciate the soft becoming gowns so restful after heavy, stifly boned frocks. Some have the greatest success in evoly- | ing—with the help of the littie home | as a settee. & tive and comfortable, Une lately desizned | nas a mahogany frame, a good substan- | tial one, the top of which is filled in with | small squares of beveled plate-glass, the | centers of the two inner panels and the | seals are upholstered in an artistic| printed velveteen, and the two outer sides consist of upholstered panels with openings representing tiny winiows fitted | with dainty silk cartains. On the ouser | sides of these panels are two double | shelves for plants, ornaments or books. These shelves may be emploved as arm rests when this piece of furniture is usea ch screens may be upholst- ered in any suitable fabric that harmon- izes with the room in which they are | used and many sorts of wood are appro- | priate for the frames. Bed Spreads. A bride received as one of her gifts this month a most beautiful bed spread rich, heavy, white Irish poplin Great of Russia. Think of going back to the time of that woman. This gown, which was made especially to be worn at a garden party, hod a foun- dation of modern spotted muslin, the flounces and embroidery having histerical interest. The fablier had alternate rows of Valenciennes insertion and narrcw flounces of embroidery. At the back were two wide flounces of embroidered muslin coming about half way up and descending to the tablier. A frili of embroidery went down oneside of the bodice and continued down the opposite side of the tablier. On the other side was a trimming of mauve ribbon, coming across in the same way and fallingon the skirt. The whole was made up to wear over white silk. One of the prettiest ideas in the return to the early Victorian period, of which we hear so much just at present, is elegant cloak. It is made of fuchsi ored velvet in cape fashion, short in the vack, and baving long ends in front. The and beads. The sleeves are tight fitting, but widen slightly at ihe top, and the bodice opens in front over light blue chiffon. Thisis quite out of the ordinary, and the effect is excellent. If we have to be fashionable and want to be economical at the rame time, one of the nicest ways to accomplish our end is to bave gownsof thin meterial, to be worn over different silk linings. One charming summer gown of white muslin which I saw had strips of embroidery and lace in- sertion let in at intervais, and was made up over shot rose and yellow silk. But it was quite distinct and aetachable, and | could te worn over changeable linings. Another one, arranged in the same way, | was of black satin spoited grenadine, with | four or five iittle frills at the hem. This was designed to wear over black or whit alternately, at the owner’s pleasure. This last idea is especially good, and practi- caily provides two handsome costumes at littie more than the cost of one. Some of the gowns for evening wear are very tempting—more so than some of us wish they were. White, always beaatiful and suitable, is particularly in favor for summer wear and will be extensively worn. A particularly pretty evening dress is of chine thrown on a white ground, on which is a white brocade as well as a chine de- m. It is made with a bolero of the silk, iined with white satin and turned back, so that the sides of the jacke: almost form large, bold revers. Round t e hem at one side the skirt is trrmmed with white, cerise and green satin bows, with ribbon intro. duced here and there. The sleeyes are made of a single puff covered with kilted chiffon. For yachting and bouting parties and To be thoroughly fashionable this year l you should take a spin on your wheel on | the beach. Of course you ride a wheel, because every one does. It you cannot take a spin on the seashore take one along the shore of the lake, or 1f that fails think up a good substitute. In any event if you are at the seashore do not fail to takea breather just as near old ocean as circum- stances will permit. Fashion has set the seal of approval on this fad and all her devotees, male and female, are scorching | IT'S- THE to obey her b:hests, | One of the most pleasant features of this il il f \' 4| ) which is known as a bathing bicycle party. | There must be a chaperone, and the new idea s that to be stricily en regle chancesare that the chaperone who can one sbould ride in a bathing suit. The | summer girl is not always at ber best in a | bathing suit, but if she is at her best then, of course, the idea suits her to aT. It| also suits the summer young man and there is nothing left to be desired. To | has been decreed that the way to take this spin along the sands is to do so 1 a party, | ride a wheel is not ovlivious to the fact that young people do not always care 1o be i conventional. So there is a delightiul | combination of a jolly chapsrone, a bi- cycle and a bath. It might not be thought that the beach itdoes. Itfact the firm, hard sand seems | to bave an elasticity that helps a rider to | FASHION TO RIDE A WHEEL ON THE BEACH. speed along ata great ra pleasant, also, 1o go at a scorching pad with the ocean breeze blowing all about vou and fanning away the perspiration. Those who have tried it say the exhilara- tion is simply unspeakable. Add to the joy the scorcher feelsin the very move- mentof bis wheel the invigorating effect of the salt air, and the result must be | give the sanction of absolute propriety it | would make the best of bicycle paths, but | pieasant in the extreme. Down at Coney Island, along that sec- tion of the beach that stretches away It is very | westward in horseshoe fashion ioward Nortons Point, lies the speedway of the bathing cyclist par excellence. Go down there any day and you can see plenty of evidence of the popularity of the new fad. | Maidens of from 16 to 40, young men, middle-azqd men and men who would like to be thought middle-aged, are all there. and her best young man must join the B. B. Club—that of the bicycle and the bath. ruffle of rare old creamy lace at the back. Rose-pink satin forms the foundation. Equally lovely is a gray etamine, made in tiny tucks from the neck to the waist. At the hips the skiit is ornamented with a fine silk braid of the same shade. The bodice is fastened a little to the left side and has two small revers of Savres biue watered silk, delicately outlined with steel. The same shade of blue appears in the velvet crush collar. At the waist a band of silk exactly matching the dress in color was arawn through a quaint old blue enameled buckle. An Ascot Gown Is of pale mauve accordion-plested glace silk, the overskirtof pale primrose chiffon, gauged with dark mauve sequins and finished with buttons; this treatment is repeated on the bodice. The front is of pleated silk, the bolero collar of cream- jewelea lace over dark mauve satin, which composes the collar and belt; the sleeves of pale mauve pleated silk with yellow chiffon, fastened with the very orna- mental buttons. An Evening Dress Is very fetching made of green taffeta silk. Six accordion-pleated flounces ex- tend from the knees to the hem; at the knees is an insertion of ecru lace, placed over white mousseline de soie. The white silk bodice is 8 work of art, being most charmingly embroidered with steel and diamonds. The front is formed of green and white chiffon frills, the sleeves are of these, and round the waist is a high belt of a beautiful shade of cerise miroir vel- vet, which fastens at one side with dia- mond buttons. The bodice is everywhere edged with the new Tom Thumb fringe. Charming Hats. One mostly admired is a broad-brimmed Italian straw, caught up at the back with black velvet bows and s cluster of pink and white roses. The crown had five white wings and was trimmed also with the roses. How sweetly pretty a girlish face looks under a white straw that is raised at one of two or even three old dresses—indeed | they could not be better used. For ex- | ample, truly lovely is a tea gown of pink | cashmere, the front being of pink and | white brocads, soft lace encircles the [ neck, which is cut down rquare very | slightly in front, and extends down either | side to the foot of the garment. The el- | bow sleeves are of the brocade, but are | surmounted with small bows of the cash- | mere veiled with the lace. Two small | bows of satin ribbon appear to hold in place the Jace that borders the square- cut neck, and at the waist-line isa well- | tied bow with four loops and two short ends. Alace frill completes the sleeves, |and it is beaded with a ribbon tied in a | frisky bow. The gown hasa short train, | and as it falls over can be seen two small | lace-edged ruffies of the brocade. | | While admiring this gown it is difficult | 1o realiza that the pink c:shmere dia duty | {all last winter as a white dress, but the owner had it dyed to match the pink roses on the brocade, purchased five yards of pink satin ribbon, and had some good old lace mended and cleaned. The brocade was once a dinner gown, which did good | | service in its day. { | A handsome grandmother possesses a | tea gown that is certainly very smart, but then it has just come from the hands of a | well-known dressmaker. The richest | black broche siik composes it, the front | being of white silk, down which are twelve | lines of two-inch-wide black lace inser- tions; placed at regular intervals between each of them are three rows of black baby velvet ribbon. The front is finished with a deep ruffls of lace; the same drapes ing sleeve tops and falls gracefully over | the slender hands; it likewise forms two sort of little wings at either side of the standing collar ot insertion. The sieeves are of the black silk, with three insertions over white silk. The gown is lined with white surah, and has two white lace-edged rufiles. [ Chit-Chat. | satisfactory result: | try the model I have justdesigned of fleur | either side, edges the deep cape like flar- | exquisitely embroidered in green and, rose colored wash silks; the design is exceptionally artistic, representing as it does birds and flowers. The lining of this gift is of rose-colored surah, the deep fringe that finishes it - being of the same hue. Quilts are certainly rather awkward | pieces of fancy work, but for those who | do not to tax their eyesight, large | squares of Kaseymir linen traced with | | bold designs of flowers, birds and ara. | besques are interesting and will repay the labor bestowed on them. Kither linen ! tiread or wash silks may be used with Fine, soft-finished linen for sofa cush- | ions, encircied with a raffle and embroia- | ered with silk give the greatest amount of service. They are made like pillow cases, so ttat the down_pillows merely have to | be shaken out. It you want a lovely one, | de lis, with a frill of the linen on which ¢T2 seven rows of satin baby ribbon that matched the lilies in color. ! Much liked is a sort of work that may be said to be a rival to the rococo work. It is carried out with mere strokes of mid- get-shaded ribbon. This forms in some | cases tiny pompon roses, the narrow rib- | bon being drawn into puckers by a few | running stitches along the lower edge, while beinz slowly wound round in a | fluffy, raised ball. ‘A plaiting of similar | ritbon may either be folded in twoor used | entire—another idea in semi-relief which may be applied with charming results to white satin photograph frames. MARCELLA. Serge Again in Favor for Goming Wear. . It seems asif the idea of going back 1o other days forour fashions was never to end. Itisalways the old that is new now. | | The frocks that our grandmothers wore are not in favor, but those of our great- grandmothers are uitra-fashionable. Here' is an examole that I noticed the The “settee screen’ is rather an ingeni- | other day. A white muslin dress in the ous piece of furniture and is both decora- | style once indorsed by Catherine the | velvet is covered with black chiffon frill- | ings, through which the tints of the vel- vetgleam in the most fascinating way. The lining js of rich brocade, harmoniz- ing in color with the material. For even- | ing and general dress wear, nothing hand- somer could cven be imagined. Among other new hats for summer, I saw some very effactive ones for those of us who are in half-mourning. It is not varticularly easy to find something de- sirable inthis line, so these merit a word ortwo. One in particular was especially attractive. It was trimmed with a num- ber of tulle rosettes, white ones on one side and black ones on the other. From the center of these comes a straight os- prey with a curled piece waving toward | the back over a white ostrich feather. Be- | neath the brim was a bunch of white car- nations tipped with mauve. Another styie, with more color in it, was a hat’ of violet straw draped with mauve tulle and trimmed with masses of many-hued con- volvuli. A great consideration at this time of the vear is a gown that will stand the wear and tear inseparable from the gayeties of the season, and at the same tim= present a smart and dressy appsarance. One such costume is of ecru canvas made up over blue, the canvas allowing the color be- neath to show through. Tae bodice is trimmed with embroidered lisse, the bolder flowers in the design beinz also of the blue. Blue chiffon, in a deep double frill, finishes the front of the bodics. The «kirt is formed of the canvas, entirely dis- tinct from the silk beneath, and is em- broidered all around the bottom. other frock, also very durable, is a very open check gauze of pale green, made up over blue, and very handsomely trimmed with guipure laid over emerald green vel- vet. Here is something quite original in design. The material is a soft silk, printed in a pompadour pattern of pink and blue. The bodice has a basque effect in front, but at the back is continued into | the center back breadth of the skirt and bordered with applique embroidery of Valenciennes lace worked with sequins An- | for general outing wear white serge holds its own against all rivais. It is worn both plain and striped, and the ribbed serges, with pronouncea diagonal weaving, es pecially recommended for wear. We wear it in plain white, in white with lines of color and in dark shades, and any and all of them are both stylish and serviceable. flanvels, snrunk and unshrinkable, and many of the newest outing costumes are of pure wool. XNEW TO-DAY. Imperial Hair Regenerator. One of the triumphs of modern science is the discovery of this In- va uatle and veions combinu- tion of harmless ingredients by means of which GRAY. DYED or BLEACHED HAIR may be re- stored (o _a color that rivals even naturs itself in its wouderful per- fection. It is noi a DYk or a BLEACH. Jtisa HAIR COLOK ING of perfect cieanliuess. COLORS : 1 BLACK. 2 DARK BROWN. 6 GOLD BLND. 3 M DIUM BROWN. 7. ASH BLOND. 4. CHEN:NUT. PRICE $1.50 and £3.00. For sale by all Druggists and Hair- dressers in San Francisco. Sold and_ applied by Stanisias Strozynski and Goldsiein & Cohn. SUPERFLUOUS HAIR ON THE FEMALE FACE, On men's cheek» above the beard line. moles, warts, bisckheads, rd noses, freckles and all facial blem* isbes permanently and deniroved the stamp for our free book. THE CHICAGU ELECTROLYSIS CO., 613 Parrott B'iding, San Francisco. Hours, 9 10 4; Sundays, 10 to 1. SUPERFLUUS HAIR TS5, BEMOVED BY THE PHILADKLPHIA ELECTROLYSIS CO. 1170 Market street, cor Taylor, over “The Maze.” rooms :8 and x9. by means of (he eiectric needle, without paiu or scar. Moles, warcs, wrinkles, biackheads, ireckies, bir(h- marks and other facial blemishis also removed. Yermaneucy guaranteed. Hoursliod P | sessment o {s ool Therefore, the fashionable summer girl | Then we have the white | 6. LIGHT CHESTNUT. The present active efforts to stimulate the membership of the California Miners' Associa- tion has brought to notice the exent 10 which San Francisco people and Sau_Francisco capi- tal are interested in the development of gold mining in this State. S.K.Thornton, vice- president of the Caiifornia Miners’ Associa- tion, who has been for two months devoting his time to building up the organization oi the miners, has compiled a listof 171 incorporated mining companies which had esfablished business offices in San Francisco neatiy eigh- teen months ago, taking his dats from & mining directory published early in 1896. This list includes only Incorporated com- panies whose properties are in California, ex- cluding all the Comstock companies and all companies having their headquarters here States or Territorizs outside of California. This list of ircorporated hasiily compiled from the most convenient data at hand simply as & guide to Mr. Thosu- 1o in his rusding for a greater membership for the California Miners’ Association. This list of San Francisco incorporated companies includes several hundred stockholders who are residents of San Francisco. But this list is only a starter. clude the many operations of San Francisco men who are investing money in individual does it include many mining incorporations formed to develop certain mines which have City. Neither does it include any of the min- ing compenies incorporated within the pist eighteen months in this City. The organiza- tion of mining compenies is proceeding ot a rapidly iucreasing rate in San Francisco slone. Hardly a day passcs without a brief little announcement in the news columus of the daily papers of the incorporation of one or more new mining companies in the City. No complete census of the mininz compa- nies of San Francisco operating in California amid the present new and great era of gold mining development exists, but the San Fran cisco incorporated companies alone are esti: mated to reach {nto the hundreds. These in- corporated companies represent a vast num- ber of investors. A great proportion of them have no occasion to establish offices in office properties. Three, five or ten pecple buy an vndeveloped but promising claim and assess themselves so much a month to pay a cheap superintendent, a few miners and for & chesp developing plant and go quietly about their business iu Nevada, Calaveras, Kern or some other county, each stockholder keeping hope- ful track of his littie mining affair as he would of any other litile side speculation in- dulged in. feetand makesan encouraging striks it is private affair not likely 10 get into the news. Dbody else’s Lusiness. Many of these unheard- of San Francisco companies, whose operations donotget into the papers, like those of the Kennedy, Utica, Gwin, et al., are deveiopiug unknown claims into mines that will acquire fame some day, and many of them are com- posed of small storekeepers, cleris and so on. Some fellow in the plain walks of life gets a claim or a mine, or an option on one, and gets his acquaintances interested and forms an incorporated company, which puts up an as- 00 or $500 a month for develop- ment work. A favorite scheme is to form & company at & certain capitalization, 80 much stock to be treasury stoc is sold at whatever price seems the receipts from the treasury stock and not assessments are used to pay for the develop- ment operations. i a valuable property is found the incorporators bave & good thing and the busers of treasury siock have made investment. These companies, whose incorporations are reported almost daily, represen: mainly the small investments of people of small means. They represent the investment of grocery-men, makers, men of small or large capital and the common peopie generally. whose properties are in Alaska or in other | companies was | It does not in- | waysorin simple business partnerships, nor | not established regular business offices in this | buildings or to advertise themselves or their | 1f tne little company gets down 20 or 200 | papers, and while it contributes to the devel- | opment and prosperity of California it is no- | tainable and | saloon-keepers. professional men. clerks, dress- | | State and each month 1fcreases the scale of AMONG THE MINERS. Ilng which, within a year or two, has selzed | bold of the people of this state. The organi- | zation of these companies is not at all | fined to San Francisco. | Los Angcles, San Diego, Fresno, Sncramentoy | etc., companies are created weekly. As in. timated before, these incorporations do not Tepresent the biggest amounts of Cahifornin capital being invested in gold mines. Indi- vidual men of wealth, mauy of them, are | constantly seeking for promising investments, |and when they make them they ar: mude | through expert agents, and little is said about {it. A list of the San Francisco wholesale busi- | ness men of wealth who have within one or | two years turned to the California gold regions | as a field of quiet siment would be & sur- | prising one. One noticeable and gratifying thing about the new gold mining activit, | that so much of it is aue to conef San Jose, Stocktong lifornia is alifornia capital. Statistics in this regard ace impossible w get, | but competent judges say that ha f or more of the vast amount of money that is justnow going into the buying of claims and mines, the | sinking of shaits, the running of tunnels, the | erection of prospecting and miliing machinery, the development of electric power for mines | and 50 on, s California capital. The shrewdest j mining 1avestors of London and the Esst have in the past vear been making welcome inves ments and stertiug important deveiopment operations, but these outside investme generally in partly developed or old nes, where the investment is Dalpably a pretty safe one. The Californians are doing the most in the way of real development, for the Califur- nians are the most ready to take hold of a mere prospect or a slightly developed mine and fiud out what there is in it. AlL this direcis attention to the pecaliar sit- uation which gold-mining in Calitornia occu- ples. California is e only important gold- producing region of the globe, excepiing Si- beria, in which the stock-gambling fever does not send lesitimate production to second place. The absence of siock speculation h re is the one thing that gives an outward appear- ance of quietude to California am:d all this worid-wide gold-mining excitement. In Lon- don the speculative fever rules the mining ffairs of South Africa and Western Australia. he theme of interest is the price of stocks, nd the mining news of interest is the news which affects the prices of stocks. Permauent values and sctual production take a secondary place. In British Columbia, where a wonderful activity and great promise attend & production thatis bul a traction of California’s, the formation and over-capitali- zation of stock compenies and the variations of stock prices are the most prominent fea- tures of the mining news. In Colorado, espe- clally in the great Cripple Creck district, the speculative fever is still the controlling thiag, although stock gambling has struck the era of hard times whnich precedes and attends pro- ductive prosperity. But in California the public has not got | over its sickening dose of Comstock mining, | and nowhere in the world has mining stock speculation so poor a fleld to flourish in, | There is in this State a strong reaction from the Comstock gambling period, which had much to do with the late quietudd in gold mining here. There is another condition somewhat pecullar to California which, for- tunately, represes the stock speculative ten- dency. The gold mines of Californie produce little silver, and their values are steady ana | permanent as a rule. A persistent value in a | mine affords no opportunities for rises and | 1alis in stocks, such as attended the strikes in the Comstock silver mines. Last year California produced about $17,- 250.000 in gold, and the widespread, active | and growing development now going on, the | greater part of which cannot reach the stage | of large production within two years, prom- | ises that before a great while Celifornia alone will surpass South Africa and Australia in the | value of its gold product ana be tac greatest gold producing region of the world, This new development, just fairly begun, has infused new life into every mining county of the investment and development on a legitimate Tney exhibit the wide interest in gold min- | and permanent basis (00000000 REMNANT SALE! FOR THIS WEEK ONLY (Commencing Nonday, June 21 | AT MARKET-ST. STOREONLY, DRAPERY GOODS! | REMNANTS of SILK-FINISHED VEL- | VETEENS, 45c grade, at 25c per yard. REMNANTS—ALL - WOOL NUN’S VEILING, soc grade, at 15c per yard. | REMNANTS—BLACK ALPACA, 25¢ | grade, at 10c per yard. | REMNANTS—GOLD DRAPERY, for | home decoration, was 1oc, at ] | | | | 25c per yard. | HALF PAIRS OF PORTIERES, ‘ At HALF usual prices. | SINGLE LACE CURTAINS, | CRIB COMFORTERS, Bargains in Comforters, Pil- low Cases, Sheets, Blan- NEW 7TO-DAY—DRY GOODS. From 30c up. 1 | 50c. | kets, Etc. i CEOPOLEICREOEDOOEEOTED Slokiterg Soiaes C.000000CICOCOOCTO) ‘AT BOTH STORES. | REMNANTS —OF— DRESS SILKS, For Home Decoration. RIBBONS, LACES and DRESSTRIMMINGS At Unusually Low Prices. SPECIALS! | LADIES’ EMBROIDERED SCAL- LOPED HANDKERCHIEFS, regu- lar value 12! 5c per yard. __ Now at 7c. _ CHANGEABLE SILK | GENTS' PURE LINEN HEM- REMVNE?_Q’-EST, was Sr‘Gat SIS 4‘ STITCHED HANDKERCHIEFS, embroidered initials, worth 25¢, Now at 12} | LADIES’ RICHELIEU RIBBED LISLE ! THREAD HOSE, Hermsdorf black, the usual soc article, Now at 25c. BARCAINS S et EVERY DEPARTMENT THIS WEEK. 107-109 POST ST. AND 1220-1222-1224 MARKET ST. A | i | Y -y i