The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, June 6, 1897, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CTALL, SUNDAY, JUNE 6, 1897. At last she has arrived and all the‘ poems and word-pictures ever written fail | to describe her fascinating loveliness | She is crowned with roses; she is simply | refulgent; her garments recail all the del- | jcate tints of the flowers that the sun has | brought to glorious perfection; her com- | plexion no artist can do full justice to; | her form is nympnlike; but she no longer lives on dew and ro-eleaves, as her grand- mothers were supposed to have done. | Sheis a besutiful, hesithy maiden, who loves nature in a wholesome, sensible | way, and shows her appreciation of it by | taking long walks, rides and drives in the early morning, when nature has so many charms that appeal to even the least sen- timental. But the sentimentality of the | average belle is well controlled and she | spends more time at practicing drivin: | her golfball and the latest serves in tennis | than in reading amorous literaturs. So | say we all—long live this type of lo%ely | womanhood. | But our maids and matrons must be | gowned S0 as to emphasize their charms «f face, of form, of coloring, asthe poet who raved over unadorned beauty evi- dently was the victim of an unusually bright young woman, who had made such | a perfect study of her own particular and peculiar style that she really made him | imagine that her simple gowns had not been especially cut and designed to call attention to every charm to hide every de- | fect, but we are wiser, well knowing only | the great dressmakers can create confec- | tions tlat, although seemingly marvels of | simplicity, yet reveal in every witching | fold 8 nameless indefinable art, and for | this cachet the great leader« of the fashion- | | | able world giadiy part with their du The Latest From Paris. For morning wear when out shop-| ping the tailor suit is worn by all. | The jackets show a slight change in therr | small turned-down collars and their | diminutive revers. They are single- | bressted and in most cases fastened with | | three buttons, as no longer are fancy vests | orlace of mousseline de soie in vogue; only a lurge tulle bow at the throat is now visible, The boleros are also closed and generally braided; the high silk bands, inaispensable with etons and boleros, are made with whalebones. Some fancy those made of black and white taffetas striped end have their parasols made of the same. | After luncheon dresses of tulle lace and ‘ mousseline de soie made over colored silk | are correct; one such was recently zreatly | admired, being of black Chantilly over | cerise taftetas, the silk and lace seemed | to mold the figure, for only soft, clinging | silks are now used as linings. | To most of us will appeal the charms of | a dear simple little conception. The upper portion of the skirtisof Irish point, the remainder being of gray and white striped | silk. The bodice is of mousseline de soie, over which is worn a small bolero ot Irish | point. At the throat and waist is a] wrinkled band of turguoise blue veivet, | the lining throughout being of turquoise blue silk. Black mousseline de soie overdresses arn being designed with either one wide flounce that gradually increases in width | as it reaches the back of the skirt, or witi three or four narrow flouncings separated from one another by insertions of Maltese lsce or Chanu Oue of Doucst’s latest innovations con- sists in using the new black tulle known as “Greek tulle” over white satins, the | hem of the overskirt being finished with white feather stitching. | Chitchat. Emeralds and opals are at the present moment enjoying a great vogue, and the price of emeralds is rapidly increasing. Not long ago a seven-carat emerald readily sold for $4000. Indeed, these gems are the | jewels of the moment. Diamonds alone | are not nearly so fashionable, almost al- | ways now being seen in combination with | other stones. B The preity fin de siecle French women have made ears most unfashionable—that | is to say, they must not be visible, the hair being drawn to cover them so com- pietely that there is no trace of their ex- istence left. Kilted lace of the pattern of edelweis is spoearing on both hats and bonnets. It makes handsome stock collars also. With summer frocks and shirt waists the Normandy girdle promises to be pop- | ular. It i« composed of bias folds of silk, is pointed in front and boned. A buckle or clasp fastens it. Pouched nodices are again enjoying a very considerable vogue, some of the latest models being pouched back and front. A wide folded belt is usually worn made of black satin when the wearer de- sires to look slender. English girls will all wear the Victoria tie this summer, because it is decidedly becoming, being of white tulle, which is tied under the chin in a largs bow. It may be worn With any gown and has a softening and most becoming effect on the majority of fuces. Plump maidens, alas! | cannot indulge in this fad, for the loops of | the bow are spread out fan-shaned and | form billowy waves of tulle. Nearly a yard and a half of tulle is used, so the fyshion is an expensive one, asto wear | such a bow more than a half dozen times would be an impossibility. Astrakhan lace is a novelty and is made of silk; is lizht and airy and is said to look | like the old-fashioned Honiton. The pat- tern is defined by close loops of silk. Equally new are the Fedora pleatings of | white lisse, with deep frills of black lace | attached toa ruffie which has long ends in front. The tailor-made canvas dresses for sum- mer wear are extremely fashionable and equally expensive, but the results justify the outlay in most cases. Beantiiul is an embroiderel screen of cream satin framed in gold. It has three graduated panels. Birds and flowers, with an odd ribbon design, are most cleverly in- troduced in exquisitely tinted silks, | Rather a dainty wedding gift, is it not ? Truly lovely isa little cabinet covered with vellum. On each side of the tiny brass handles on the drawersa flower spray is worked and the top is embroid- ered with flowers. Such cabinets are made like small chests of drawers, and vary, of course, in size. Some are covered with brocade, others with satin. the most charming colors being used, such as yel- low, pale blue, pink, ereen, e:c., but I think those of pure white embroidered with ribbons and flowers are most desira- hle although, to be sure, most perisbable. | decorations of oak leaves, roses, sham- | rocks and thistles. | sides for summer wear it makes it possible | tired in Violet and light blue is one of the latest | color combinations, and & new rich ma- genta pzacn tint, said to be singulaiily be- | coming, has laiely been discovered. Miss M. A. Crabb of London has just ompleted a fan which is quite a wonder- i piece of work; it was exhibited last month. Itis composed of chicken skin, on which is painted the sceno represent- ing the marriage of Queen Victoria and | Prince Albert. It is adapted from the painting by Sir Georze Hayter, now so | famons. Ipside the border are the ini- tials V. A. interlaced, the crown of Eng- land, the collar of the garter and the The modish New York matrons are quite delighted with the latest gloves in | soft fawns and browns, most delicataly perfumed, that have just arrived from | Europe, as well as the exquisite handker- ; chiels that are more cobwebby than ever. Some have the daintiest colored borders imaginable. Nightidress cases made of porgeons satin brocade, lined with satin to mateh, having one corner turned over, on wh ch is sewn a piece of fine Valenciennes lace, are miuch liked by some. Small brocaded pin- cushions, with a full lace ruche, are coming into favor again. they hold them. A coffin is built, & wagon lurid pigment which after inundating the town might also | The multitudinous seas incarnadine, Makisg the green one red. Besides the language of the vells the | white hats also bear zeometric and other | designs, a few of which are ballet girls in various attitudes, coffins, owls and like cheerful objects. Tuey are usually applied in red, and a tbriity sign-painter in | Berkeley turns a “pretty penny"” in his specialty of rendering these hats ‘‘obje ts d’art.” But there is one figure sometimes seen on the white plug which, like the hat itself, bas a particular meaning. Thefirst vear in college is regarded an arid season; the siudies are tedious and interest in them is dificult to arouse. By the time the May examinations heave in the fresh- men ars disgusted with Bourdon's alze- | ing creature that she is. bra and Minto's English literature. Ac- cordingly they prepare to dispose of these | two scientific works in a manner appro- | priate to the degree of disdain in which nired and a brass band secured to play & dirge. Then, with fireworks to burn when the deedis done, they move from some selected place beyond the college zround toward the campus. It is there proposed to conduct the paper Bourdon and Minto, encased 1n the coffin, to where | | course. overand admired; besides all this they are severally ladened with associations of college life which would come back upon their onetime possessors in a flood of memories should they ever again fall into the hands of those who wore them through those culminating years of theiruniversity course. Joux E. BESNETT. Society salaams to the June bride, fetch- This year she1s to be gowned in more charming mode than ever. Here is a wedding dres. that one of the most beautiful ot New York’s beautiful women is going to wear. The contrast of texture is remarkable. The bodice is skillfully draped with white chiffon and slashed with gleaming satin, while ¢ ouds of chiffon form the sleeves. Around the foot of the skirt runs a cordon of orange blossoms, and at the back, where itis evoluted into s long train, a huge bow of white satin ribbon charms the eye. | So much for the gown in which the | young woman is to be married. That wou'd never do for the traveling dress, of Perhaps I ought to call it the | going-away gown—to be strictly English, you know. However, for those of us who | still have old-fashioned ideas a traveling dress will do. This particular one is of At last we bave a skirt that may be worn with a shirt waist, without o} ening down the back at inopporiune moments or slip- ving below the belt. This new idea is worthy of special consideration, and is be- coming des-rvedly popular. It is intended for wear with the bolero now so much worn and opens at one side of the front, thus obviating any possible separation at the placket hole. The shape is excellent. Cut without any fullness at the back, it yet sets admirably. Itis fin- ished at the waist, which is absolute'y tight, with a neat Peter-ham band. This skirt would be particularly desirable for country wear, for, on account of its peculiar make, it wouid look equally well for cycling or tennis use. When worn by a wheelwoman the new cycling hat now coming into favor would be most suitable. This novelty is made very sim- ply, consisting merely of a knittea Tam o’ Shanter mounted on a velvet band, trimmed at one side with a couple of quilis and a bunch of flowers. The woman whose idea of enjoyment in summer consists chiefly of boating has a variety of wraps to choose from and must be unfortunate indeed if some one among them does not become her. We have the long coat ulster in the ever useful blue cloth faced with white. Then there is the short cape form. These latter show a de- cided novelty in being arranged to button over the shoulders s> that they can be worn in circular form or open toadmit the arms. These capes have admirable points and may be used for driving also. These are the most in evidence, but they are modified in S0 many ways as to prac- tically become entirely different in style. Despite the endless variety of materials we are already familiar with there are always new ones which find their way to public favor. Among the noveties for this season there are three which seem to deserve particular mention. First there is a new fabric which iscalled “Louisine.” It is a kind of poplin, much thinuer than the ordinary variety; and is to be found SOME OF THE SUPER- ULTRA °’VARSITY TILES. Silk petticoats lined with nun’s veiling | they are to be raised upon a pyre and, | simple, quiet fawn clotb. are very <atisfactory, as they last so much | longer than those which are unlined, be- to dispense with the flannel skirt. Lace flounces are most liked, but the white petti- | coat has raturned better cat and more | beautiful than ever, as it is now gored with infinite care, its flounce being shaped on the principle of the cape, so that with- out fullness it falls into pleats. Some are | even having their cambric and muslin petiicoats made in kilts. These are said to be lovely, but they have to go to the cleaners instead of the laundress, so are | not like!y to become generally popular. MARCELLA. The stranger in Berkeley is repeat edly perplexed by the appearance upon the streets of fresb-looking young men at- habiliments of the well-to-do, save alone that part of their apparel which adorns or protects the head. This viece of gearing as it is worn by them ex- cites in the spectator mingled sensations of wonder and surprise which break away in ripples of smiles or an ebuilition of laughter. These queer coverings for the head apparently belong 1o the genus plug, but they are invariably so compressed be- tween the circular disk of a crown and band as to suggest interior frame work of a springlike mechanism, and one is moved 10 regard them as a type of the chapeau bras—those singular things which you press together and hold with a catch; you Telease the caich and they jump out like a jack in the box, to the consternation and start of all present. These young men are university stu- dents and the hats they wear are insignia of their cult. They are not chapeaux bras and their crushing is not the work of the tile-builder, but it is a product of tbe slam and bang, of the cane whacks from be- hind and the foot kicks from before, which invariably are dealt by way of initiation to every new affair of the “cady’ sort which is borne in upon the campus. These hats express a definite meaning, attesting like a system of military epaulets the uni- versity grade or rank of the owner. There are three styles of *‘varsity” hats noticeable. One is the black morar- board, another the light demolished plug and the third the blsck ditto. All and sundry of these mean several expiicit things. \Vh‘n a voung man becomes a freshman the unwritten code of college law vroh.bits bis donning any other than the sirictly civilian hat or cap. After, how- ever, he passes this twelvemonth of ordeal and he attains to the rank of sophomore, he may then decorate his sconse with a mortarboard and 1s entitled to the further privilege of being permitted to carry a cane—a distinction the assumption of | which he is denied during the whole of the prior period. Another twelvemonth of probation and he passes 0 the estate of juniorhood; he is then eligible to attire his “'think tank” ina span white tile. He can biy this from the students co-operative store, and he generally does; for the shells of the juniors of the preceding year are unsuited to survive and pass to the uses of their classsuccessors. This inutility is not due to senility or advanced stage of decay or demolition, but owing to the obliteration of all surface therefrom available for de- corative purposes. Very early in the career of the white tile its rotund exterior and else becomes suffused with the m. st enigmatic designs. Primarly the general college yell1s painted on it. That is g stanza of anapesi—or other pest—verse which rans like this: Zip! Boom! aht Besides this the junior somet'mes gets on his class yeli—for each class has a dis- tinct yell aside from the general confeder- ate hair-lifter which once heard is rarely forgotten; splitting the night air of | the embeilishment imnvlies, Berkeley it signifies the presence of that with all due ceremony, incinerated. But the most ancient, venerable and | lasting of the plues is the black. This | distinguished badge is worn only during the senior year, and few are the students who will withhold from the town and each other the fact which the wearing or to wit: that he who is covered by a black crushe ! plug is a member of the graduating class. | The history of these hats has never been | written, and perhaps in college literature | they are unduly overiooked; but there are | about a thousand of them of various' | delicious linings of pink, white and gold It has most check silk—a dainty little surprise when a movement of the foot betrays the inner edges. Fawn braid is used to ornament the surface of this gown, and as this re- peats exactly the cloth on which it rests it gives an exceeding uniformity of tone. In the frills that run down the bodice there | is a most becoming note of turqucise blue. The same effect obtains in the jeweled buckle that clasps the ribbon at the waist. Next in importance to the bride her- | self comes the bridesmaia. Here is a hat whicn is specially fitted for her and e EMBROIDERED SILK WAISTCOAT. These rich waistcoats are a great success in Engiand. They are for both day and evening wear, cut very iow for the !latter, brocades. and made up in pale-tinted shapes and hues bobbing over the campus to-day, and they are all things of the ut- most interest from whatever standpoint | they are approached. They have ap- peared in all collese games, romps and rusheswhich have transpired since their in- troduction into their present service; their status and the defined limits of their use restsupon and is defended by not alone the moral but the entire physical forcs of the student body and, over tne faces of their respective owners, they have been many times photographed and sent home asa “'josh” to relatives and sweethearts, by whom the piciures bave been laughed one which would be becoming to any young, fresh face. Yet it is simplicity itself. It is one mass of accordion-pleated chffon, the crown fastened in the center with a diamond ornament. This is tied round the base with Tuscan-tinted ribbon and has tnree white fealhers at one side. In materials for the gown tself the bridesmaid may find some- thing very enhancing in pin spot bengaline. This silk, vparticularly in cream color, has a very youthful charm. Ondine is another silk quite fn favor for bridesmaids, and may be bad in almost any pale shade, mainly in charming little check patterns green, mauve, black and gray being com- bined with white. It offers itself per- suasively for blouses. The other two | materials are of the gauze variety. Dal- | ghali crepe is like chiffon, but infinitely superior to that perishable article in wear- | ing qualities, and offering the further advantage of being cheaper. Then there is the Agra gauze. This is very soft and silky and makes the most delightful friils and fichus. It promises 10 be very much | worn, and this indeed applies to all of these new-comers. But with all the furor that exists for transparent stuffs of every variety, mus- lins will hold their own in popularity. One of the prettiest afternoon dresses I have seen this season is of the time-hon- ored spotted variety. It is made over a maize-colored foundation of silk glace, while circling interminably around the sleeve is cream lace. The muslin of the bodice and skirt has insertions of the lace, and the crusn belt is of green glace silk. Taking it as a whole nothing could be more charming or more becoming. No woman’s wardrobe this season will be deemed complete without at least one of these pretty and inexpensive frocks. Lingerte being a matter of necessity, we are always glad to have new ide: cerning possibilities in that direction, especially something entirely new. Nov- elties in silks and muslins are of almost every-day occurrence, but something really new in the way of a flannel petti- coat is a zenuine and most agreeable sur- prise. We call it a flannel petticoat, but it is really not flannel at all. It is made of a woolen, crepe-like material, quite amenable to the washerwoman, and trimmed with flounces of lace. There are | three qualities to be obtained, an all-wool crepe, a silk and wool crepe, and a cotton crepe. They are mounted on | very thin silk bands, and are altogether most desirable, as they are soft, light and warm. In fact, this latest edition of the flannel petticoat seems to offer all the ad- vantages of the old one, without any of the latter’s drawbacks. A decided and somewhat startling novelty in the way of a yoke bodice de- serves description. The yoke is made en- | tirely of coat-of-mail jet, through whose ghttering design a steei serpent with em- erald eyes makes its way up to the throat. The bodice itself is made of white lisse, with a frill of pale-yellow lace falling from bust to wa A few folds of emer- advelvet form the belt, a touch of the same color being discernible 1n the full frills at the throat. The skirt worn with this unique bodice is made of one of the new silks, in mauve and white checks, striped with a narrow line of white satin, It is trimmed in a charming, old-fash- joned way with graduated rows of black velivet ribbon and litule frills of lace. UPHELD THE COURT. Superior Judge Daingarfield Says Jui- tice Groezinger Acted Within His R gats. The Pacific S8asn-Weight and Foundry Company received a setback on Friday in its suit against the Justice Court before Superior Judge Daingerfield. The suit was based on an allegation that Justice Groezinger had refused to accept a bond on appeal and that the case com- planed of had not been regularly tried. Attorney Perry, for the defendant, en- tered a weneral demurrer to the complaint, and in speaking on tue matter Judge Daingerfield intimated that the plaintiff had not_made out a case and that the acts complained of were discretionary with the Justice. He was about to dismiss the cuse, when the attorney for the plaintiff asked for a stay, in which to produce authorities, and was granted five days. : ————— The tooth of a mastodon in an almost complete state of preservation has.been unearthed. It weighed 141 pounds and “DONNA LINA.” The Blight of Italy’s Greatest Statesman—A Prime Minister’s Wife Who Belongs to the Mafia. Although as a general rule there is no greater help to a public man in his career than his wiie,who is bound to him not only by ties of affection and habit but also by & community of interests which constitutes herin every seuse of the word his most sympathetic partner, yet tuere are cases, fortunately rare, where the wife 1s the evil genius of her husband, the cause of his downfall, and the origin oi his ruin. One of the most pitiful examples of this kind is that of Francesco Cr spi, far and away the most brilliant statesman of Italy since the days of Cavour, the man who may be said to have elevatea the kingdom of Italy to the rank of a great power, whom Bismarck in all the plenitude of his ar- rogance and grandeur considered it neces- sary to treat on a footing of perfect equal- ity, and yet who now in the eightisth year of his age stands accused, not of political crimes, but of ordinary felonies, and is subjected to the ignominy of magis- terial examination in connection with charges of complicity in the colossal frauds that have brought about the ship- wreck of the Bank of Naples, the Bank of Sicily, the Bank of Rome and other kindred institutions. In each case the in- solvency of the bank seems to have been brought sbout through the blackmailing extortions to whi was subjected by the leading politicians and Government officials of the day, blackmail, which naturally ended by causing the directors of the institution to do some plundering on their own account, since they had to all intents and purposes purchased acqui- escence therein on the part of the authori- ties by submitting and yielding to the shameful demands made by the latter upon the coffers of the banks. it was during the administration of Crispl that most if not all of this whole- sale dishonesty took place, a dishonesty which has tended to thoroughly warp the moral sense of a nation that from time immemorial has been renowned for its financial integrity and thrift, and to which the civilized world is indebted for the origin of its credit system and bank- ing iastitutions. No one, not even the most bitter enemy of Signor OCrispi, dreams of accusing him of having plun- dered the banks in order to add to his own private resources, and his assertions that the money extorted from these institu- tions was used by him for the Secret Ser- vice fund of the Government and for the electoral expenditure and newspaper propaganda of the political party to which he owed his parliamentary majority find universal credence on the part of his countrymen. Indeed were there nothing eise than this he would probably never have been molested, even by those of his political adversaries who are now in power. But unfortunately the investiga- tions to which the affairs of the ship- wrecked banks have been submitted by parliamentary gommissions, and by the ordinary judicial and magisterial anthor: ties, have brought to light the fact that among the most insatiable and relentless of the plunderers has been Donna Lina, | the once beautiful, but now universally unpopular, wife of the veteran statesman. According to the recent cable dispatches from Rome about the matter it appears that from one bank alone something like 10,000,000 francs, or about $2000,000, hae found its way into the private banking account of Donra Lina, and any one who knows the popular aversion in which she is held in tae Eternal City will bave no difficulty in believing that portion of the dispatches which describes the lack of consideration with which she is treated by the judres and magistrates, who “scoff at her explanations, sneer at her protestations of innocence and manife-t an altogether indecent interest in her numerous private ban king accounts.” Donna Lina Crispi is a Sicilian, and is popularly credited with belonging to the Mafia. If she does not, she at any rate finds her most intimats friends and asso- ciates among individuals who do. Every- thing, however, leads to the conviction that she is a member of the Mafia, which she has undoubtedly utilized to obtain money from the Bank ot Sicily. Almost everybody in Sicily, save men of unblem ished honor, such as the Marquis Rudini and the Marquis Notarbartolo, who was assassinated four years ago, is affiliatea with the society, and when a few years ago the two Dukes of Vitlarosa, cousiris of the murdered Marquis, were placed on trial at Palermo for the cowardly assassination in their own palace of a young officer who was betrothed to their only sister, it was found impossihie to obtain a conviction in Sicily owing to the fact that they be- longed to the M and that no one dared to give e e against them. Eventually the venue of the trial was transferred to Naples, where they were found guilty, and are now undergoing a long term of penal servitude for their crime. That Donna Lina should be affiliated to the Mafia is in no wise surprising. For her antecedents are of so questionable a character that Queen Marguerite declined resolutely to recognize her until long arter Crispi had become Prime Minister, when the Premier placed Humbert face to face with the alternative of either secur- ing her Majesty’s consent to the presenta- tion at court of Donna Lina, or subjecting the country to a Cabinet crisis. Queen Marguerite's objactions are based on the character of the people amonz whom Donna Lina was reared, on the unsavory nistory of the lady prior to her associa- tion with Orispi, which is a matter of po- lice record in her native city of Syracuse, and la-tly on the fact that she had in. duced Crispi to abandon for her sake a de- voted wife, of whom her Majesty was very fond. Crispi's matrimonial affairs have always been of a somewhat complicated nature. In his youthful davs, when he was asso- ciated with Garibaldi and Mazzini, win- ning celebrity for the skill and ingenuity with which he designed the explosive bombs and infernal machines used for revolutionary purposes, he married a young girl. whom, when driven into ex- ile, he took with him to Malta and there deserted. In 1859 ne joined Garibaldi’'s army as a simple soldier. The vivandiere of his regiment was a celebrated character of the name of Rosalie. Dressed in the traditional red blouse, with o musket on hl" shoulder, she took part in all battles slew with her own fair hand countless numbers of the King's troops, and :: :x:: close of the campaign yielded to the so- licitations of Crispi, whose life she had saved on two occasions, and married him in due form. prispl soon acquired promi- nence and high office. Mme, after having shared his dangers, was nat rs-;?'cu:: ;::‘; 10 share his successes. at court and became a 12 ounces, and measured 10 inches by 6, and is pure ivory, s great favorite of Queen Marguerite (the crown princess as she was then), who vastiy enjoyed her eccentricities of character and picturesqueness of language. Of course no mention was made of the deseried wile at Malta, whose existence had been kept a pro- found secret by Crispi, who, however, in course of time deserted Rosalie in turn for the sake of Donna Lina, now his wife. Suddenly in 1877, while holding te post of Minister o! the Interior in the Depretis Cabinet, Crispi startled even his most in- timate friends by contracting a civil mare riage with Donna Lina, and on being taxed with bigamy, explained that his first wiie bad just died at Malta, and that his union with Mme. Rosalie, having been con- tracted during the lifstime of the former, was necessarily bigamous and therelore invalid; consequently there was no legal obstacle to prevent him from marrying Douna Lina. Tolerant as are the Italians in such matters, this was more than they could swallow, and amid demonstrations of universal approval Crispi was deorived of his portfolio, the same penalty being meted out to the Minister of Justice, who had granted him a dispensation from the bands of ordinary preliminary legal for- malities, such as banns, etc., with the ob- ject (?I averiing public attention from the marriage, Instead of endeavoring to propitiate the court, society and the people at large into forgetting ail these antecedents, Madame ¥ i No. 3 set to work to carry things with a high hand, expecting apparently to win by means of arrogance ana self-asser~ tion the position which under ordinary circumstances would have been due to her [ 8s the wife of the leading statesman of [ the kingdom. Sbe forced herself upon the Queen in the manner above described, forced herself too upon that portion ot patrician society which had espoused the cause of the Quirinal, actually compelling her husband, who was completely en- thralled by her, to dismiss from the office | of Mayor of Rome the immensely wealthy | Duke of Torionia, merely because the | Duchess had declined to accept the ad- vances of Madame Crispi in the drawing- room of the English embassadress. In- deed, she finally lost her head to such an extent that on one nccasion at the per- formance in Rome of a French play, which was attended by Queen Marguerite, who was immensely amused, laughed heartily and who expressed her approval in the most public manner, Madame Crispi left her box in the middle of the piece, loudly ‘Drotesting againstits alleged indecency, on the strength of which she induced her hnsband on the following day to prohibit its further representation on the stage. Queen Marguerite is the best-naturea woman in the world. But herindigna- tion at the impertinence of Mme. Crispi in thus endeavoring to give her a public lesson in propriety was more than she could stand, and a few days later another Cabinet crisis ensued. The climax, how- | ever, was reached when King Humbert | was compelie¢ by Crispi to confer upon him the Order of the Annunciation, the members of which become ipso facto cou- sins of the sovereign, this prerogative ex- tending to their wives, who follow imm:- | diately the princesses of the blood on all | official occasions. Mme. Crispi thus be- came officially the cousin of Queen Mar- guerite, entitled to remain seated in the royal presence and to be publicly saluted | with a kiss from the lips of her Majesty. | it 13 on the strength of this that Mme. | Crispi has dropped the prefix of “Signora’® and assumed that of *‘Donna,” coupled | with her Christian name, Donna being as a | rule reserved for the wives and daughters | of the old patrician princesof Rome. The veople of the Eternal City have humor-d Crispi’s wife in this particalar. They concede to her the titie which she has usurped. But in the words of the old French proverb it is the ‘“tone that makes the song,” and the peculiar inflec. | tion of the voice of the Romans when they | speak of “Donna Lina’ is more eloquent | than could be the most violent epithets of. | the execration with which she is regarded. EX- ATTACHE. | A Club for Fat Men. | Under the title of Les Cents Kilos, a clubof fat men has been established in | Paris. The weight indicated by the name, something less than sixteen stone, repre- sents, of course, the minimum qualifica- tion of membership, and cannot be re- garded as excessive. But among the forty-five comraaes in obesity already en- rolled some are said 10 attain the respect- able figure of 450 pounds and every man who joins is expected to inciease his bulk by all reasonable ‘means. The rules of the association enjoin eating, drinking and sleeping ‘as much as possible and | avoiding ‘all work that is not absolutely necessary. Ladies are strictly banished from all social gatherings, for their press ence is regarded as incompatible with the proper assimilation of food and the devel- opment of adipose tissue. Two house- dinnerson a gargantuan scale are to be held every year. The pride of the insti- tuiion up to now is Oiiver Flomont, the heaviest conscript in France. 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