The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 30, 1897, Page 30

28 THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 30, 1897. FASHIONS, FADS AND FANCES OF THE SUMMER GIRL The summer girl of 1897 is to be dis- tinctly an sthiete. She may still cling to the fluffiness of other years when she is indulging in & promenade upon the hotel veranda or along the beach, but,this will aisappear when the hour of athletics ar- rives. Itis all the outgrowth of the idea that a woman to be thoroughly fashion- sble must be muscular. The day of the flabby girl has departed. ‘What particular form will the athletic fad take? This is the question the moth- ers and fathers of the summer girl have been asking. You can count the branches of the fad on four fingers. Here they are: Golf, fencing, swimming, rowing. There is a strong tenaency toward popularizing the fourth in the category named. Welles- ley girls had a “crew” last year that took | spins on the river and lake. The gymna- | siums at the girls' colleges were exceed- | ingly well patronized by the students. Perhaps one might not think it, but very muny of those same students are summer girls—the simon-pure article. There are s lot of things the summer girl must know to be athletic. If a girl is really going to enter into outdoor sports, she must be absolutely correct in what she does. Golf is considered s rather muscular game for 8 woman, and so it 1s. Not only that, but it is a game that calls for knowledge as well as skill. Take “driving” for instance. In this feature of golf, one must cultivate a good style. Style may not be of the great importance which son.e veterans ‘insist on, but who can deny that a good style is a distinct advantage to the summer girl who wishes to become a good player? This is where the knowledge comes in. To make a zood drive the club should be grasped firmly with the left hand, the right being used more to guide the direc- tion, the two hands as close as conven- iently possible, the left being a few inches from the top of the shaft. Hold the club well home in the palm of the left hand and more in the fingers with the right. | The ball should be just opposite the hands; | that is, the ball, club, shaft and hand and | eye should all be in the same vertical plane | and the club resting lightly on the heel, should be at an exact right angle with the ball’sintended direction of flight. Thusthe player’s hands will be slightly in advance | of an imaginary line drawn vertically | down the center of her body. She should | stard firm, with her legs about eighteen inches apart, the left toe slightly in ad- vance of the right. In this posture she should execute the waggle. The ideal wagele consists of a gentle swaying to and fro once or twice only with the club over the ball, and in the same vertical plane as the arc which the head of the club ought to aescribe in the actual stroke. The player should waggle with her wrists only. Bhe should let the | club head rest again for a moment be- hind the ball before making her upward swirg, her left elbow slightly squared, ber right at an easy angle, and her hands well down about on a ievel with her belt. Then she should swing her club back to a horizontal position behind the head, never for a second taking her eye off the ball, | allowing the body to turn gently with its weight upon the right foot, raising the | left heel slightly off the ground, a per-| fectly natural motion. She should keep the head of her club perfectly steady and | let her upward and downward swing be practically one motion. When the young woman comes to fence she will find the one thing it is necessary for her to pay particuiar attention to is the parry. The safest advice to give to her is to practice assiduously all the par- ries, excepting, perhaps, the one known as the prime, which is difficult to execute and very little used in foul play. As the young woman becormes more dexterous she will soon see for herseif what guards are the safest to rely upon. Successful parrying depends to a great extent upon a trained instinct, which enables one to foresee the direction of the opponent’s at- tack and upon accuracy and judgment in executing a movement. The important thing for the young woman to remember is that ehe must not be led off into mak- ing her parry too wide, for in fencing, as | in everything else, the conservation of en- ergy is vital. It is easy to see thatif, upon her ad- versary’s feint in sixte, the summer girl allows her blade to fly too far out to the right she will be unable to get it back in time to parry the real thrust in quart. Therefore, she should begin by trying to make parries too narrow, only broadening them when she sees she is hit too often. At the same time she shouid try to ayoid moving the arm, using the fingers and wrist almost entirely. The greatest com- pliment which can be paid a fencer is to say that her finger play is excellent. This advice, if carefully followed, will give the beginner a grace which will make her the envy of her companions. When the summer girl has learned all these things carefuliy she may be tanght to swim, provided she does not know how. The method is worthy of a moment’s no- tice, however, because it teaches one how to swim without entering the water. This is the way it isdone. Take a chair with- out a back and place a padded cushion on the top. On this the pupil balances her- self on her stomach. Then the in- structress shows her how to work her hands, and wien they are all right her feet, and when the hands and feet can do their part she makes them work together in proper time. - The pupil stretches out straight from finger tips to toes, palms downward. At the word *one” the hands are quickly tucned out- ward, while the arms are brought around square with the shounlders. At “two’”’ the elbows are close tothe sides and the'hands are brought together between the chin and breast. At the word *‘three” the hands are sent front to the full length of the arm with energy and notin a purely passive way. The.legs should be carried well up under the body and outward as much as pos- sible at every stroke. The toes should be pointed upward toward the shins before each kick. The object of turning the toes upis to gel zil the advantage possible from them, as it is in the stroke that the power is applied with the flat of the soles, The feet ought to be turned outtill the toes are in line with the elbows just before the kick. After a vigorous kick, turn the toes downward and close the legs with a snap, again bringing the soles in use. As the heels meet tne strain which was put upon the feet to turn the toes down is taken off and must be put on again after the next kick is made. When the hands and feet can each do their sepacate parts they should be made to work together lu this fashion: As the hands and arms supply the power, the legs are being brought up for the kick all at the word “one.” The kick is made as the hands meet the chest and the sweep with the soles continues the rhythm as the hands are brought to the front in the re- covery. By the movements power is al- ways being applied either by hands or feet. While the arms lre_wnrklng the legs are recovering and vice versa. A half second ought to elapse before the hands are parted. This will give vontidence to the pupil and will keep her from swim- ming too fast when she makes her first attempt in the water. So much for learn- ing to swim on dry land. From swimming to rowing is & natural step, and o it is that the summer girl promises to become fairly proficient in sculling. Now sculling is no joke. It is not like sitting down with & pair of oars which fit snugly into rowlocks and will not go overboard if you drop them. It is performed by one person, who sits in the center of the boat and uses a pair of short oars, technically called sculls, holding one in each hand. In holding the sculls, it is & mere matter of fancy whether the right hand or tbe left is uppermost, the sculls overlapping more or less. The great points to be borne in mind are to sit upright, to reach out well over the toes, dropping the body between the knees, which should open out as the arms stretch forward to get firm hold of the water at the moment of contact, and tolift the boatover the water with the first part of the stroke. The sculls when not in use should inva- riably be flat on the water to preserve the equilibrium of the boat. The great art in sculling is to pull equaily and evenly with both hands in order to balance the boatand to main- tain a straight course, for there being no cockswain the sculler has to do her own steering. This she accomplishes partly by keeping the stern of her boat pointed straight at some fixed object astern and partly by turning her head, not her shoul- ders and body, round to the right or left to enable her to cast her right or left eye as the case may be as far along the water front as possible. | All these things must the summer gir! of 1897 ponderover. If shefaithfully car- ries out the promise Dame Fashion will require her to make she will have far less time to spend in Flirtation Glen or En- gagement Grove. MARCELLA’S CHAT Having alluded to the many charms pos- sessed by cashmere when handled by the expert tailor or dressmaker, I am not sur- prised at receiving severai requests to de- scribe 2 few model gowns evolved from this fabric, and I am especially glad to do so having just heard of two designed in Paris. TLe first would admirably suit the pretty brunetts so soon to become a bride, and would be most cbic as well. Itisthe shade of a Parma violet; the blouse bodice has a creamy cambric yoke, with a quan- tity of the tiniest of hand-made tucks; groups of these alternate with real Valen- ciennes lace insertion; over this is worn asort of bolero of taffeta glace Parma, 4 1“ e () itk covered with ecru embroidery. The neckband 1s of cerise velvet veiled with ecru embroidery. The skirt has its upper part made of the glace Parma, and the lower of the cashmere. Ecru embroidery, or insertion, with finished edges, conceals the join. ‘However, I warmly aavocate a skirt made entirely of the cashmere with bias folds of the taffetas glace, unless ecru insertion. of a superior quality can be used. The waistband is of the cerise vel- vet. With this can be worn effec- tively a hat of fine black straw, trimmed with three handsome black ostrich plumes, Next the hair in the back should rest a cluster of eerise roses or Martha Washington geraniums. A short cape of black mousseline de soie would give a pretty finish to the costume, which is lined completely with a Parma-colored surah, through which runs a cerise stripe. Equally fetching is a mouse-gray cash- mere. Steel and siik mingled together is used to embroider the plain round skirt. The blouse bodice has a small basque of pearl-gray taffetas that closes on the left side under two small frills. These start from the shoulder and vanish under the waistband of dahlia velvet. This should be studded with imitation jewels, and an emerald clasp holding it together imparts a certain Parisian touch. A small hat of moure-gray straw trimmed with rich velvet pansies, having a large white aigrette at the left side, goes prettily with the toilette. Garden Party Models. Three emanate from the hands of this artist and are eminently suitable for the purpose for which they are designed. Red taffetas glace is used for ome. The skirt is sun-pleated and around it is a double row of chevrons, made of black inch-wide velvet ribbon. The effect is charming. The valvet is also used for the odd velt, which is short in front and in the back, but ex- tends in a deep point almost to the arm- hole on either side. At the left is a large steel buckle and an erect bow, made with several loops. The sleeves are beaded with a draped puff and are completed with fine taffeta pleating, which rests on a cream lace fFill, like the upstanding ruff on the chic fiat collar of black silk gauze, relieved with creamy lace and gold embroidery. The lace droops as a frill down the front and is laid quite flatly on the fluted taffeta epaulets, the long ends of which are pleatad and carried round under the arm- hole. The sleeves are long and slightly wrinkled. A ruffle of the taffeta and one of lace completes the wrists. Virot is responsible for the hat of Gas- cou straw; it has a round brim enclosed in a bouillonne of cream lisse, caught up round the crown with a band of mauvre i S o! RS hir ) ih ribbon; this also serves asa footing to & spreading out row of white lace pleatings, within cream ones. “Saule pleureur plume of white ostrich feathers Cache- peigne in shaded mauvre flowers.” The parasol used is of pompadour silk, veiled with whitesilk lisse and surrounded with a handsome flounce of white lace. It has & white satin bow and an enameled monnt. The French are quite crazy over sun- pleating, so Felix has evolved a second lovely confection also with a sun-pleated skirt, but this time he uses a transparent biue barege, round the bottom of which is some beautiful Eastern embroidery in gold and silver thre The bodice I am most enthusiastic over, although I have but the colored plate to gaze upon. It fits closely and is mainly composed of most exquisite bise guipure over pale blue satin, and this also is used to make the tabs, one of which extends down either side, beirg about eighteen inches in length. The Oriental em- broidery that appears on the skirt edges them as well as the lawn-puffed barege that forms the upper part of the sleeves. Tiese are made of spotted barege of a lighter shade than the rest of the gown, and about them I felt rather concerned, as really I think the effect would be better were they of the plain fabric, for what with the guipure over the blue satin and the embroidery, the blue velvet waistband (which had a small buckle to boid it in place in front, a larger one in the centez of the moderate-sized blue velvet bow in the back). I think quite enough things have entered into the composition. How- ever, to continue. A blue velvet bow appears at the back of the neck, with outstanding loops and ends. Over each puffy shoulder cap is a bow of blue velvet with drdoping ends; the entire lining of this transparent fabric 18 of pale blue satin. The style of the hat is the ‘*Aureole,” and in this case is made of pleated silk lisse; at one side are two roses, one red the other pink, from them arise a white ana pink aigrette. The third dressis for a slender young woman, and can be made out of any light summery material, but the one under dis- cussion is of the most delicate white silk muslin, *“painted with elongated and treble vandykes, black, violetand mauvre, and further dotted with sets of double raised spots, recalling the four shades.” The round skirt has fifteen graduated flounces. Down the front of the bodice is a triangular plastron made of five rows of smaller ruffles. The sleeves are close- fitting and gauged, at the top of which are five diminutive ruffles. The yoke is of white mousseline de sole, of ‘an exceptionally good quality. It is adorned with an undulating ST 1 yellow satin ribbon, and gathered to the neck under a broad one, crossed in the center with five lines of black bapy veivet ribbon. The same finish used for the wristbands and the waist. At the back of the neck are two accordion-pleated ends of the mousseline de soie, trimmed with the yellow satin (narrow) ribbon and a row of the black velvet. The entire foun- Local newspapers report that Colonel An- drews 1s going up through some of the north- ern counties to look for diamonds. He may not find rich new diamond fields, but the matter calls attention to the facts that Cali- fornia produces genuine diamonds and that no systematic prospecting for diamonds has ever been made in California by anybody who could recognize an uncut diamond in a gravel pile. lifornis has its diamond fields. The term ‘alifornia diamonds” has sometimes in a popular or rather in a jeweler's way been given to cheap crystals and imitations, and comparatively few people know that Califor- nis diamonds are diamonds, and that the only trouble with them is that they are small and scarce as far as we have got with them. The biggest diamond yet found in the State was in the rough about the size of a large pes and weighed two ana a quarter carats. Several of one and & half carats are on record. When through s large region dismonds of that size have been accidentally, incidentally and fre- quently shown to exist there is s reason- able probability that time and intelligent search may reveal bigger and more valuable ones. Diamonds have been found in this State in Butte, Amador, El Dorado, Nevada and Trinity counties. The first discovered was in 1850. During the '80's quite a number were found, but no recent discoveries of note have been reported. Diamond experts acquainted with the South African fields have advised that systematic search be undertaken. With the exception of the microscopic diamonds found in the platinum sands of the Trinity River they have in this State been under the me conditions as in Brazil and South Africa 1n beds of conglomerate or cemented gravel, dation is of asoft finished white taffeta silk. The hat has a circular brim of yellow straw that matches the ribbon. It is laid over a deep goffering of silk muslin, The crown is of mauvre silk muslin, surround- ed with four tabsof white muslin ed, with mauvre friils caught up in the center under a large tuft of variegatea roses and lilies of the valley. MARCELLA. association with platinum and other rare metals. The most fruitful fleld so far discovered is at Cherokee Flat, in Butte County, where during the course of meny years quite a number of smell ones have been found in the gold-bear- ing gravels being worked. Fifteen years ago one Chris Wisner found about twenty near Volcano, Amador County, in gravel tunzeled from a deposit buried under forty feet of lava. Opeof them he sold for $33. Here as else- where no careful, systematic search or the use of expert skill followed. In 1861 a diamond Wwas found one and a half miles from Yankee Hill, Butte County, during a sluice clean-up. It was sold to M. H. Wells, who gave it to Gen- eral John Bidwell of Chico. The gem weighed s caratand a half, and Mr. Bidwell had it cut in Boston. Formany years it graced a finger- ring worn by Mrs. Bidwell. A few others obtained by California mining men have been cut and worn by California ladies. In 1867 three diamonds were found in gravel near White Rock, E! Dorado County, and one of them was sold in the rough to & San Francisco dealer for $50. Some time ago Professor F. Wehler of Gottinge: carefully analyzed platinum sand from the Trinity River and found minute grains which, after careful tests, he promounced genuine dia- monds. Particles of diamonds have been found in the product of stamp mills through which cemented gravel from drift mines had been run, the diamonds having broken up in the milling process. The diamond discoveries made %0 far have sil been made by ordinary go!d miners or others without any expert knowledge of the gems. Those found are, of course, siray speci- mens from among far greater numbers. Miners have naturally often pawed over the gravel from drift mines in regions where dia- and generally close to bedrock, and also m] monds have been found and have often found little, redaish, irregular, dirty bits of cryst: Iine formation which have been guessed to be diamonds. They have sometimes shared in the snclent and genersl but erroneous popular idea that a true diamond is s0 hard that it can hardly be broken, and go have used a hammer for testing. A diamon however, has lines of cieavage, and may ofte ! | De split on the edge of & knife or cracked along] | its regularly arranged lines of cleavage with 4 smart and not very heavy blow. The most ready test 18 to rub it on a little emery wheel, and if it perfectly resists the emery it is apt 10 bedismond. It diamond discoveries of value are ever made in California, they will likely accompany the development of drift mining, which is yet in its infancy in this State. In the museum of the State Mining Bureau are several interesting uncut California diamonds contributed by the late J. Z Davis, president of the board of trustees, who had a deep interest | in the diamonds of this State. | The new trouble with the Anti-Debris Asso- clation bids fair to be peacefully seitled, thereby preserving the vitally important spirit of co-operation between the miners and the farmers, which has already resuited ina partial resumption of bydraulic mining and steps to improve the lower Sacramento, and which is needed to secure further Federal ase sistance. The executive committee of the California Miners' Association has appointed President J. H. Neff, Tirey L. Ford and Andrew Corrigan to confer with the special commiitee of the Sacramento Chamber of Commerce. These commuttees will institute an imparti expert investigation of the mines sgainst ) which injunctions have been asked. The other evening the Novada City Board of Trade unanimously ratified the action of the Miners' Arsociation, expressed confidence that the matter was in competent and Impartial hands, snd pledged co-operation for a peacoful settlement. Meanwhile the officers of the Anti-Debris Association have abandoned their activity, and as a majority of the valley popu- lation are now cordially interested in the re- vival of mining prosperity, in which they in- directly share, and as strong business influ- ences in Sacramento are interested in preserv- ing the tradeand good will of the mining dommunities above, it is likely that the unex- pected campaign against ground-sluicing wiil be quietly dropped. 1 Governor Budd is expected to announce right away the new board of trustees of the State Mining Bureau, which 1t is time for him to appoint. The members left after the death of President J. Z. Davis are W.S. Keyes, J. E. Doolittle, Thomas B. Bishop and W. S. Pyle. | The Governor has an appointment of more practical importance to make and that is the Btate Debris Commissioner. The term of the Republican incumbent, John F. Kiader of Grass Valley, will expire June 1, and several mining engineers want the place without stir- ring upany talk avoutit. This office is just about to assume its proper importance, s £500,000 is 8001 %0 be spent on big restraining dams on the Yubs, Keather, American and Bear rivers. The $250,000 appropriated by this State, and now available, is to be spent according to plans of the Government engi- neers, to be approved by the State Debris Commissioner and paid out on warrants drawn by him. An important question as to what consti- | tutes “hydraulic mining” has been raised Ly | the manager of the Anti-Debris Association in an effort to induce the Government engi- neers composing the California Debris Com- mission to assume conirol of all mining in which gravel or tailings are washed through sluices by water on the watersheds of navi- gable streams. It has been erroneously stated in some neéwspapers that the Commissioners have ruled that sluicing in any form is hydraulic mining within the meaning of the Caminetti act. Iu fact the commission has decided that the | eluice-working of banks of tailings by the hy- | draulic process is hydraulic mining, and within their jurisdiction, but this official ex- tension of the definition 1sat presentof only theoretical importance, a8 only one miner in the State has worked beas of tailings that way, and he has got through. The Tracy Gold Mining and Milling Com- pany has been formed in this City to develop the Tracy—tormerly the G. A. R.—mine, near Angels Camp, in Calaveras County. Themine 1s on the same vein of the mother lode as the f Utice, and displays a wide ledge of good ore, ! with a development of only eighty feet. Prepa~ rations for sinking a 500-foot shaft are being made.—The Kirkham quartz mine at Nevada City has been bought by the Ln Suerte Mining Company, which bonded it some time 880, Ex- tensive work will be done at once. Park Music To-Day. Following is the attractive programmie ar- ranged for the open-sir concert in Goiden Gate Park to-day: The celebrated funeral march (Chopin); American overture, containing the National airs (Moses); waltz, “Immortell&n” (Gungl; patrol, “The Blu nd the Gray” (Dalbey ‘war memories or “A Day in Camp” (D. W Reeves); overture, ““Rienzi” (Wagner); grand selection, “The Martyrs” (Donizetti); para- phrase, “Nearer, My God, to Thee’’ (Keeves); | march, “Veteran W fors’’ (Smith The ‘ United States Circuit Court has granted an_Injunction against all infringers on the patented Imperial Hair Regenerator, manu~ fhe Imperial Chemical Mfg. Co. s factured only e ‘vention.” IMPERIAL HAIR REGENERATOR FOR GRAY OR BLEACHED. HAIR. Clean, odorless, lasting. 1t does not contain an atom of poisonous matter, and will not stain the scalp, and baths do not aftect it Neither does curiing nor crimping. Price $1.50 and $3.00. ANY SHADE OF ANY COLOR. Sole Manufacturers and Patentees, IMPERIAL CHEM. MEG. (O, 292 Fifth Avenue, N. Y, IN SAN FRANCISCO, SOLD BY: 8. STROZINSKIL 24 Geary stre GOLDSTELN & COHEN, 322 Market street. G. LEDEKER, 111 Stockton street. Freud's Corset House. SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS DRAB ENCH 150, 300 DOZEN LADIES' BLACK SATEEN PERFECT-FITTING F MODEL CORSELS, regular price § will be closed out at $1. 100 DOZEN PERFECT-FITTING BLACK AND DRAB, regular price $1 ), wi e closed out at 75¢- The Ventilating or Summer Corset, new in style, pecfect in shape. Prico from BOcC up s e ] o >R =z cs ] =B 3 <] Sot 23 - £3 s 2 LR 0E : <£ Qo= £z $3 : 2Eg ° 48 ZS R 232 o ° o =0 il L Qi Hz e w o B S2s s RO S [l a7 . A&~ Mall Orders receive prompt attention. Iilustrated Catalogue mailed free. Make No Mistake in Our Address, M. FREUD & SON, 742-744 Narket St. and 10-12 Gront Ave, SUPERFLUOUS HAIR, AND RED NOSES, BLACK nd all factal blemistes per- manently ' destroyed without pain or scar by ELECIRIC NEEDLE operstion. Book and con- sultation free. THE CHICAGO ELECTROLY S/ €0, 618 Parrout building, San Fraucisco. Mours, 94 Bundays 10 to L.