The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 23, 1897, Page 32

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 23, 1897. The country is now so beautiful that we | can be laid away until next fall and the | kid wherever required and is an expert in daily discuss plans for coaching, garden | and house parties that will take place in | the near future. Lovers of tha water are no less enthusiastically arranging for many a long cruise. So truly the summer girl's wardrobe becomes more and more | complicated, for not only must she have a full supply of pretty house dresses, and yet more lovely hues for the evening, but it she playa golf and tennis, rows and | swims, she must have a special costume | for each and every occasion. | Grass Linen. For those who cannot afford a great va- riety of summer frocks, let me advise them to 1nvest in grass licen, made over cither a good quality of satin or a soft- | finished taffeta. The skirt should have two bands of four-inch-wide embroidery. Raised embroidery upon lace will be most beautiful, but I cannot say it will be rea- sonable in price, quite the contrary. Two similar bands run around the waist, de- scribing semicircles back and front. Two are likewise applied on the sleeves, which | are finished with a full double frill of lace that exactly matches the wnsertions. This edges them also, and is gracefully jarboed down the left side of the bodice. Black | moire velvet finishes the neck and encir- | cles the waist. The velvetis cut on the bias, and is allowed io wrinkle prettily. A black hat, with three Prince of Wa'es | plumes at one side and resting next the hair flowers that either match or offer a good contrast to the silk foundation, will | be found extremety stylish and will prop- | erly complete the toilette. | Such a dress will not cost less than § or $100 if fine lace and insertion are used, but it will take the place of several white flower-sprayed muslins and organdies, be- sides cheaper materials can be used. One such costume worn by a stylfsh New York girl bas both a scarlet and a bright green slip, which make a welcome change. In the end this model frock will prove an ex- cellent investment. Black in High Favor. When combined and made over some bright color or over white for those in half mourning, one can wear handsome grena- dines or etamines over white silk, and the [ colors most in favor are cerise and green, the bright grassy green being strikingly be- coming to some complexions. Mandarin orange having a dash of red in it is decid- | edly stylish as a foundation, but unfortu- | nately few find it becoming. The Moujik. | | 8o great is the demand for new tailor- made models that when the moujik made its debute at Sundown 1t caused a pleasur- | able sensation and at once became fash- | junable, for it is a bodice copied from the | Russian coat. It fastens at the left side, | is confined at the waist line with a hand- | some belt, below which extendsa basque. | It is very slightly pouched, and is so cut at the neck that an undervest is seen. Sometimes the basque is cut in tabs. Rich silk is used for lining, snd no prettier style could have been devised for | the double widith cashmere cloth which will doubtless be usea extensively during | the next year or more. These fabrics are twice the weight of the old-style ones that 80 easily became rumpled. The new | weaves are certain to be warmly wel- comed, now that they have reached such s state of perfection, and the lighter the weight of cloth that can be successfull handled by the tailors the better, as no we walk, most of us, considerable dis- tances, and so should avoid carrying aronnd any extra pounds of ciothing. i The Care of Clothing. ‘ At this season of the year many gowns | 1 | | | { i | [ fect |a company careful matron and maid will examine critically each garment before shuiting it | up in her trunk, or drawer, as the case may be, forit will save time snd money in the end, if such things as require to be cleaned or dyed are atiended to at once. | At ali events ailow nothing to remain | dusty or stained, as a little attention only is required to remove either. Skirts hay- in: but a spot or two are sent home by the good cleaner in per- condition, whe: if allowed to remain soiled they may be quite ruined. Strict attention to all ths minor details of a woman’s wardrobe consumes an immense amount of time unless done =ystemati- cally, for delicate vests of mousseline de soie or lace have constantly to be renewed or sent to the cleaners and innumerable are the stitches required if gioves, skirts, | her way, and she has been earning a com- | fortabie sum mouthly for many years. To return to spots on clothing. Ido not believe in experimenting with them, as | many a handsome dress Las been spoiled in this way, and I know that I ruined a black cloth by trying to remave a paint | stain with lucine, but I have just heard that veils when shabby and limp are | wonderfulty improved if dipped into | Scobol, as it will remove all grease and | give a little stiffening to the veil. Only | very occasionally will French chalk re- | move a grease spot on 2 light fabric, but it i is worth a trial. | Chit Chat. | Among the novelties in hair ornsments | the tortoise shell is effective in the buckle | shapes, where it is caught in the hair, ap- 1. Lavender biue costume waist. The back is plain and with a seam. The frontis fitted by derts and closes on the shoulder and under the arm. The deep corselet of dark blue velvet closes at the side with artistic buttons. Plain sleeves with lace inser Three artistic buttons close the jacket corsage. velvet rosettes. 2. Plum-colored cloth corsage. Small bolero of lace draped by blue on. Revers of heliotrope cloth opening upen a plastron of Scotch plaia taffets, Sleeves of the plaid silk. etc., are to be Lept in any sort ot condi- tion atall. In New York solarge is the number of literary and business women who find it impossible to attend %o such things themselves that there is manazed on the same lines as the ‘“‘Gentleman’s Renovating Company.” Forasmall monthly consider- ation it will undertake to bind so many skirts, etc. Rather a good thing, I should imagine. However, in most cases all such | things can be attended to at home, but I have heard of one woman here who sup- vorts herself quite comfortably binding siirts, and 1 know of another who has all the work she can possibly manage al- tering gloves. She cuts off fingers thatare too long, will take out or insert a piece of = | pearing to really confine the wavy tresses. Extended wings of shell are also pretty, One ornament much liked is a gold- enameled butterfly, the edges of his wings being set with bright stones, which are said to give quite a gorgeous effect. | Bow knots seem always popular, and a | novel pattern shows two bows in the | shape of the figure 8, seen sideways, of | different sizes, overlapping each other, so | that the smaller one rises partly above the | larger. It is a pretty hair-comb head and | at its top a short aierette rises. Another design consists of a narrow | diamond ribbon in three loops, vaguely | reproducing the outlines of a fleur de lis. | This forms the base of an ornament on which there are four elongated leaves drawn horizontally like the spread wings of an insect. In each loop a large dia- mond hangs short. Among the most beautiful lamps now seen are those of silver designed to serve as corner pieces on the dinner table. They stand on two feet and are made aiter an old French model. Crystal marmalade pots mounted in sil- ver are much appreciated. The latest chocolate spoons have silver gilt bowlsand decorated Dresden handles. Women with long and slender throats are wearing jeweled collars. Some are about one and & half inches in width and form a close-fitting band about the neck. | Bome are set with pearls, some with dia- monds and turquoises and some with dia- monds alone. More fashionable are five und seven strings of pearls graduated and united at intervals by lit{le diamond-set bars, Isee that a Western gentleman has in- vented an engagement ring that, whileit will bring untold joys to the feminine soul, will cause the same amonnt of an- euish to the masculime purse. After pur- chasing one of these new engagement rings, the bank account of the victim will wear mourning for more than thirty days. This ring is actually two rings. The gold is twisted in a manner to form two connecting rings, tined to be worn on the “love” and fingers, respec- tively. The prettiest: of these twofold rings has a diamond in one ring and a ruby in the other. Price not mentioned. *'The rings when off look like two hoops of wre. Upon the hand they are very becoming. They hold their place well, not permitting the stones to become turned inside. “Wearing this ring with a glove is troublesome. But as an engagement ring it is very fine. The duality idea isad- mirably told, and, as a practical pomnt, it may be mentioned ‘hat such a ring can- not easily slip off.” The handsomest buttons now obtainable come in three distinct styles and are de- signed for one costume. In many cases the smaller buttons are most artistic in color and design, very costly real jewels being used for them, and are set frequently in gold. Jet, plum-colored enamel and bronze butions set in riveted points continue in vogue, as some of the handsomest jet and iridescent cord pa sementeries huve buttons to match, whicn are quite effective at times. Pearls are more fashionable than ever and are more reasonable in price on ac- count of the famine in India, which bas forced the starving natives to sell rare jewels for trifling sums. Much liked are mirrors set in Louis XVI frames, ornamented with miniatures of famous beauties of that period. For seal rings women seem 1o prefer varieties of bloodstones, jasper or onyx. | Simple pie dishas are now made with antigue silver mounts. Harper's Bazar remarks concerning | loves: “Itis quite impossible, now that the sleeves come so far down over the hands and fit so tight about the wrist, to wear the long g'oves, and the mousque- taires which have been in favor so long are uncomfortable and bulky with almost all the new gowns and jackets that have the new sleeves. One-button gloves can- | not be said to have met with universal approval, buiare occasionally worn. The length, however, is equal to that of a two-button glove. Two buttons have this season quite superseded the three and four, but they also are longer than two-button gloves were made formerly. Heavy kid and dog-skin are generally used for them, as they are, as arule, street gloves. For summer wear there 1s one style of white suede made on tha same lines, and a heavy whits glace kid with heavy stitching is also worn with wash gowns. White glace, two, three and even four button heavily stitched gloves are yet in favor for smart occasions—call- ing, receptions, etc. These gloves can only be worn once without looking soiled, par- ticularly if worn with dark gowns or wraps—even the utmost circumspection when wearing them does not seem to be of much avail. In consequence many women prefer the black suede, which cer- tainly are more economical, and yet are not so effective.” MARCELLA- New York Gossip. This is going to be a gold year. I have no reference to politics whatever, for we that court Dame Fashion do not care a cent Who is elected. What I mean is that | cut in one with the cape. on pink teffeta. The sleeves are gathered to on the outside of ihe arm. NG Sl RS i h"’vl\\\'\v e 1. This waistof thin, fine lawn, with a pin stripe in pink silk, is mounted on & pink silk lining. The yoke and ceuter front piece are of plein lawn embroidered and also mounted form irills of the selvedge edges of the muslin 2. This very smart blouse of pale pink, green and heliotrope muslin has a swathed front that finishes in an erect irill to the waist, to which is added a crepe lisse frill. gold is to fgure largely in all trimmings for gowns this year. If you have a dress that you are going to have silver and gold braid put on see 1o it that there is more gold than silver, or you will be un- fashionable. ‘Woman has long been credited with an overweening fondness for a uniform, the result of the gold lace that makes it gor- geous. Now woman is to wear that which she most admires, and we may expect to see semi-military and semi-nautical cos- tumes on all sides. This will particularly be the case in the reefer suits, which are bound to be very popular. For tailor- made dresses there are many vatterns in black braid edged with gold cord. There are zourves cf every shape, kind and de- sign. Some of these are cutin a point in the center of the back, with goid fringe appended which reacnes to the waist. There are galons with gold cloth down the centerand bead embroidery of gold on either side. When gold is not in favor steel is. Itis not only employed as embroidery, but cut steel brooches and buttons and steel clasps and slides figure on everything— dresses, dress bodices, dress beits, hats and toques, and many of the new-fash- ioned upstanding coronet combs are made of the same, while steel ornaments are supplanting diamonds. There is only one thing apout this steel craze. It is abso- lutely necessary to preserve the orna- mentation that rust be religiously pre- vented. The very latest gown, the one which the traly fashionable have indorsed, is of string colored canvas made up over green silk, the foundation and the skirt being quite distinct. This opens to show a nar- row front formed of three flounces of the canvas with a deep grean ribbon hemmed in, and the entire depth closely kilted, three in the depth. The skirt is also hemmed in with green, while the full bodice is draped across and fastened on the left side, two shades of mauve and pale green mingling with the collar-band and the waistband. Grean glace silk is covered with black check canvas, with a roleau in the hem. This is accompanied by a cap: of thesame, leit with an opensquare in front, held to- gether by two bias bands of black velvet, 2 box pleat at the back and the high coliar It reaches only to the elbow and has a roleau about two inches from the waist. The bodice is the most original feature of all. Itis com- posed of printed mousseline de sole, the ground cream but little seen and almost every color appearing in the pattern. It is made up over pink silk, and this very thin, filmy fabric forms enormous puff- ings to the ruffled slesve. Round the waist are three bands of black velvet, hela in by very ornamental buttons set in with some pretty but not costly ornamenta- tions, something that will take the blue of the silk mauslin. A much simpler 'gown than the one described is of fawn canvas made up on the foundation and bordered on the foot with scroll work of narrow silver braid. The body shows open- werk squares, worked in gold to match. A high sodice in the fashionabie deep rose glace shot with white has a series of waved, converg- ing lines or narrow white insertion, start- ing from the shoulders and forming points down the front only & few inch-s apart, embroidered at each end with black and pink silk—certainly & most original bodice. The coloring of this is rather newer than the old pink, for it has a dash of flame color in it. Although many of the new dresses have narrow, all-round basques these are gen- erally surmounted by a belt, either of gold or silver galon, worked with tinsel thread or turquoise, or some of the many paste gems more liberally used just now than is altogether consistent with good taste. The af:ntion of the fashionable woman must bs directed this year to turquoises and beautiful boleros, the waist belts of a grassy green coloring are studded closely with them. In the case in question it is most difficult to tell whetner the stone is green or blue, the green foundation intensifying that color in jt. One of the most effective ornaments for the hair that promises to be popular this season is made out of two outstretched bird’s wings of iridescent green, witha small cluster of roses at their base. Rumor has it that the turban is to be re- vived. The idea is received with de- cided favor. Although this species of headgear is not generally becoming, it is delightfully convenient to wear. So I think I can safely say the turban is to be with us at least to a limited extent. Moire is again to be in universai favor. The silken fringe which was wont to deco- rate the black silk dresses in the olden days is also to be worn. This fringe, which is half an inch in width, made of silk, appears on many of the newest models in triple Tows around the skirt and trimming the sleeves. It is also to be seen in decorative combination with crepe de chine, and crepe de chine makes many of the prettiest sashes when it bears a knotted «ilk fringe at the ends. The embroideries for the fronts of gowns this comin s season are beautiful. Some on lisse and net are worked in the corners with light floral patterns, which are made right and left so that one or two {can be Iun these green and pink tinsel and paillettes of faint tone mingle with gold, silver and pearls or something of that nature. The bodice trimmings for evening are nearly all of the stomacher shape, continued at the top as far as the shoulders. They are worked also in paillettes, jewels and tinsel thread, so that the matarial of the dressshows the interstices. The boleros frequently cover the back and sre continued under the arms for high and low dresses, As a matter of fact, the styles quoted are not ironclad and the would-be fash. ionable may vary from t"e idea in minor ways all she wishes to. 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