The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, May 9, 1897, Page 28

THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, MAY 9, 1897. The interest in the discvs: ing continves to absorb the attention of | the weblike meshes of beautifully cas- | shirt wsist, and several now being com- caded and fritled Malin costly littte trifle, but suffi many, for so beautiful and so reasonable in price are the fabrics this season. offered for our contemplation, that we are sorely tempted, finding it difficult to choose be- tween the artistic, clinging foulards, the exquisite, fairylike organdies, the wonder- etamines and grenadine-. Indeed, the only truly satisfactory sol tion of the problem would be, if possible, to have at least one of each. Alas! most of us c afford half a dozen summer frocks, especially now that s silk foundation is considered an abso- agant. Such beautiful creations continue the fabric as the skirts with which they are worn, although dressmakers and leading iscut round and is sl power to banish them. Some prétty ones | are being mado of crepe de chine. The yoke | indeed, any rich fabric may be employed. ghtly full with a ' Butthe material used is usually the least | would, it seems, happily relieve this some. fashion journals have done allin their | most liked. ace,” verily a | pleted are attached at the shoulders and ently tempt- | at one of the side body seemsonly, but fin- ing to make even the most saving extrav- | ished like any other bodice at the bottom, | troduce quaint bedroom furniture, bed- \ | popularity of odd bodices, that is 10 say, | | of the bodices which are not of the same | being sewed all the way round and fin- ished with a ribbon that terminates in a pretty bow usuaily with short ends. Evening Wraps. n of cloth- | cate lettuce green that shimmers through | women can look well in the ordinary |ordinary. writing, *Just a Line’’ or “‘Only a Word.” Amateurs of enameling will be glad to hear that attemptsare being made to in- stead included, in dark green lacquerea wood, forming a striking contrast in its stern rusticity to the glittering brass bed- steads and exquisite Louis X VI suites in vogue. Another feature of this innova- The pelisse that reaches the ground is |tion are the flat and dented unconven- It may be of cloth, brocade, | tional railings conspicuous on thecnairs, satin, vrinted satin, velvet or velours; | bedsteads, washhand-stands and music cabinets. A little dash of red or pink William Morrie, poet and artistic fur- nisher) is far more costly, but usually exquisitely lovely and artistic. A great eiderdown cushion covered with it would make an appropriate wedding present. One most of us would admire is covered with a velver, on the white ground of which are scattered ferns cleverly imitated in shaded greens of “Farleyensis’’ and deeper green ferns. Round it is sewna thick green and white siiken cord. Velvet corduroy 1n shades of leaf browns and duli, deep greens, having the surface checkered with blocks produced by rec- tangular crossing lines, is enjoying its due share of favor, The newest color seen in Paris is the rich, warm Japanese yeliow that reminds oneof warm sunlight. This color is being combined effectively with dark bine. Now that many a hatpin is being sold for $1000 our inventive geniuses should discover a pin that will stay in securely. I have Leard of one, just patented, pro- vided with a little spring that works by pressure, but it is not satisfactory in all respects. dollars are lost yearly in batpins, so a for- tune is assured the inventcr who presents us with a device for retaining onr pins as long as we do our hats. On the most stylish Parisian costumes Hundreds upon hundreds of | have jeweled encrusted handles. Instead on them are seen the. most intricate and wonderful specimen of ennmelm_;!. Cashmere in the new shades is much in demand.’ It is especially appropriate for those who have limite1 means, yet desire to dress smartly, for this fabric admits of numerous excellent combinations. Many pretty maidens are having their muslin morning gowns made With guimpes, just like the children’s frocks. They button down the back and are especially becoming to slender, graceful figures. Both white and colored figures are to be the vogue this summer, but the Leavy twine-colored linens made by good tailors will be worn by many of our most fashionable women, Tl:mle owning searfs of real lace should rejoice, as they are more valuable than ever and extremely fashionable, for not only are they very becoming to throw over the head or shou!ders when exposed to draughts at summer resorts, butas a drapery for the modern eveningz bodice they are higbly prized. MARCELTA. George H. 1homas Post, G. A. R. Last Tuesday evening Golden Gate Hall was filled to its capacity by members and triends of George H. Thomas Post, G. A. R., on the oc- casion of the memorial services held in honor of the dead of, the post. The services were of lute necessity, so we must do the best we | can, and make a careful study of our| coloring, our style, our figures, etc., if we | desire to obtain the most satisfactory re- | sults with the smallest possible outlay. | Experience teaches us that it is better lo( have one well-buit, really [fashion- sble gown than a trunk full of non- | descript garments. | Should you come to this decision I should certainly say that a handsome grenadine made with two waists, one for the daytime and the other for evening wear, would be admirable, but all the | materials employed must be of the beat. | Should these prove too costly select a | foulard, as the fabrics will cost only half | as much; for on no account must the sav- | ing be made by having a poor dressmaker. | That is a foolish economy. However, if you have the time and ability you can save many a dollar if you design your | own toilettes and know exactly what you | desire, and to assist those who are so gifted 1 have written about the latest. Paquin Models. Beveral of these are exciting the enthu- | siastic aamiration of Parisian theater- goers, for in *“The Snob” Mme. Grainer wears in the first act a delightful gown of pale mauve embroidered mousseline de | sole over 2 white silk skirt, with a sash of | the same soft material in a deep shade of violet. The result is truly artistic. The! second creation worn by this bright act- ress is a teagown composed of a delicate shade of shell pink crepe de chine. In- serted at regular intervals are broad bands of guipure and a sole, and epauletsof black | tulle, spangled and bordered with steel, completed it. Later she appears in a| pearl-gray cloth dress of an exquisite cut, made over pink taffeta, the bolero worn with it being all of white silk cord and steel, opening over a pleated chemisette of pink chiffon. But Paquin is con ered to have simply surpassed himselt in ihe balldress. Exert your imagination if you would have some idea of this fas- cinatingly, lovely creation. It islongand clinging and is of white lace, glistening | with moonlight spangles, and over it trails great branches of scarlet pink | orchids. These are embroidered upon the material. The centers of tbe flowers | are a blaze of jewels. | Black lace over white satin is quite the | rage for the moment, and Chantilly | flounces have advanced 50 per cent in value. A Flower Ball. { All Paris is discussing the floral ball | given a few weeks ago by the Baronne | Rogers, at_which, says & correspondent, “all the ladies wore colored tulle dreases, draped with flowers, and the neck and | shoulders so surrounded with them they | seemed rising from a basket of flowers; | one large flower to match in the hair. | Marquise de Rosambo wore orchids; | Baronne Rogers, pink roses; Comtesse d’Aramon, hydrangea of bluish tint; Mme. de Champgrand wore white mauve lilac, and red poppies were worn by Vicomtesse de Luppe. The effect of this floral trim- ing was extremely pretty.”’ What a charming idea! How well such a ball could be given here, as a profusion of roses would transform a great baliroom into a_perfect bower, and guests so ar- rayed would make the scene a brilliant one. 2. Porcelain-blue serge gown. Skirt trimmed with three flounces. 3Tolie tte of mauve teffeta trimmed with striped and piain beige teffets. THREE UP-TO-DATE SUMMER TOILETTES. 1. Cream-colorea cloth gown with pointed revers, faced with geranium red. A band of the same ed ges the skirt. The square neck is filled in with pleated white mousseline de sofe. The doub’e-breasted bolero is cut low and opens upon & yoke of white pleated taffeza. The decollete is ornameated with a triple bertha and triple revers. | The pointed waistband snd ranel are of the striped silk. The frills and puffings on the sleeves are of the plain. Lace Blouses. In Paris they are beitg raved over, and | the few that have just reached New York | bave created a genuine sensation. One of | them is composed of ‘“cerise satin of a | peculiarly luminous tint.” Crepe lisse of | 2 lighter shade completely covers the | salin, and, in turn, is entirely overcast with the most besutiful Point de Flan- ders. Another, of black crepe de chine, | finest organdies and lawns and worn with was veiled with Vaienciennes lace, finely | white duck skirts were fashionable and shirred. But most lovely of all is “along- | this season they will be seen again, but waisted, perfectly fitting corsage of deli- | usnally over a boned lining, as only slender kilted rll at one side. The sleeves are ruched and have short puffs. Glace silk bodices are made successfully by the same pattern and those of ordinary tussore tucked and trimmed with ecru in- sertion are much liked. Many of the bodices being evolved for summer wear are charming. TWO SMART BLOUSES. 1. Spotted merveilleux biouse, the fronts gathered on the shoulders. The sleeves brought up to the top in butterfly fashion. Double bands of black moire ribbon sre ar- Tanged to torm a peasant waistband. 2. Very original design. The entire underbodice is made of white lisse and lace. The and a simulated bolero in searf pattern are of striped gray and white silk. Rosettes nium mirfor velvet. Neckband of the same. Last fall shirt waists were made of the | expensive item, for costly luces, the rarest furs, are lavishly used on them, and they are lined with either gorgeous silks or such furs as chinchilla, zibaline or ermine for example, The Latest Chit-Ghat. 8o much lace is used nowadays that it may interest many to learn that Flemish lacemukers receive from 14 to 17 cents a day for their labor, and a laceworker’s day bezins at about 6 A. M., summer and winter, and only ends toward midnight, after a long evening spent directly under the rays of a poweriul lamp. But few realize how numerous are the women who support themselves com- fortably by making ramekin and swiffle cases. Great ingenuity is frequently shown in the selection of colors and designs, and the spring ones are reported to have odd crimkly handles of pure white, but the cases are tinged around the edges with red, pink, green, yellow ana some times with even blue, With them are used the red-tipped daisy, the blue forget-me-not, or the buttercnp. These tiny flowers en- twine the liitle handles and again appear in the menu cards, being either tied to them or painted thereon. Delft cassettes, menu cards and china are pretty and serviceable for daily use, tut lack any suggestions of novelty. From London direct comes the informa- tion that the most fashionable notepaper is of the tint known as “Paris grav.” It comes with a narrow white margin. How- ever, when novel shades are not obtaina- ole, you can make no mistake in using the best quality of cream white paper. Never allow any strong perfume to find a place in your desk. Just a breath that reminds one of fresh violets is delighttul. By jJust such little things isa woman judged, for to any one blessed with delicate and re- fined sensibilities a strong, common odor is like a discord in music, and the sooner some women realize the fact that it 1s wiser to purchase soap than cheap cologne the better, ana if you cannot afford the most delicious of perfumes, how much better to do without any. The use of nis powder seems to be but little appreciated, but it is so daelicious that once having tried it you will not willingly discard your little silken sachets, four of which shouid be sewn in each retticoat, and two in every bodice. At a recent very swell dinner given to balf u dozen bridesmaids the groom’s gifts of burgse brooches, with the name of his yacht ir emeralds on white enamel, were favorably commented apon. Some of the newest notebooks have, what somoerstyle of decoration, in prefer- ence to the pale green tint chosen for the embroidery of the white quilts, duchess slips, and toilet mats en suite. A fabric known as English jute hasa velvety surface and both sides are alike. It is being very extensively used for cov- ering cushions, chairs and sofas as well as for curtains and portieres. It isespecialiy adapted for use in country homes. Morris velvet (so named after the late not a single bow or end of lace is to be seen at the back of the collar. Whatever trimming is used is placed above the col- lar, resting against the head. The Pasteur Institute declares that no one need any longer be bald or suffer from scanty locks, as the institute has caught the bald microbe and bas experimented s0 successfully upon it that in future all who desire luxuriant hair can be gratified. The most fashionable parasols no longer NEW SEAMLESS COAT RENOVATED FROM ‘A CAPE. Are you tired of your cape? If it reaches below the waist line you can make a chic little Eton of it. Pin the under arm scams of & paper pattern together, try on, fit care- {fully, then open the shoulder seams and lay pattern on your cape. Take up daris to bring - carelessly inscribed agross their covers’in | into the figure, Face therevers with moire velour or satin, the most impressive character and were lis- tened to with profound sttention by the audi- y by ence. After a few introductory remar! the post commander there was a prayer William Royal, the chaplain, then the pre tation of the colors by the veteran guard and appropriate vocal music by tne Knickerbocker Quartet; Hugh M. Burke read the histof the Donored dead of the year and delivered a eulogy upon each. After that the following programme was carried out:_cornet solo, W. Carl Murray; vocal solo, Miss Florence Doane; recitation, Misg Daisy Gilmore; quartet. | Knickerbockers; instrumental trio, Mrs. | Becket aund the Misses Beckhusen, “The Graves on the Hearth”; vocal solo, Miss Stella Freidiander; memoriai address, General R. A. Freldrich; gquartet, Knickerbockers; closing, “*America’ ; taps. 2 -——— “0ONOERT SACRED.” It Was Largely Attended and Thor- oughly Enjoyed. There was a large attendance on Friday at the Third Baptist Church on Powell street, Mrs. Leland Stantord being among the audience. Following was the programme: Trio (instrument), “From Dawn to Twi- lght,” Messts. Goodair, McDona'd and Pe; sons; invocation, Rev. Georee E. Duncan; b solo, “The Old Sexton,” Wilson Vaughns: reci- tation, “The Pharise’s Prayer,” Miss Lillio Dean:’ chorus, “Scattering Precious Seed,” by the Intermediate Christian Endeavorers; solo, “Caivary” (Roduey), Miss Lettie Lee; concert recitation, “Help the Heathen Children,” in- Zant class, Thira Baptist Suuday-school; dis. logue ana tableau, ““America and Her Neigh- bors,” by the Junfor Christian Endeavorer: cornet solo. Miss Pearl Noble; solo, T Beautiful Hills” (Mr. Sankey s new song), Rev. J. George Gibsou. pastor Emmanuel , “Only Tired,” Miss Olevio Mol- teno: organ solo, (a) “Gioria in Excelsis,” (b) yrie Eleison” ~(Mozart's twelfth = mass), C. R. Persons; solo, ““Come Unto Me,” Mrs. D, W. McDonnld' Ji.; 'finale, solo and ‘tableau, “Sweet Hour of Prayer,” by the infant class of the Third Baptist Sunday-school; choruses, under the direction of George E. Duncan Jr.} violin obligato, D. W. McDonald Jr. ; o 1 C.R. Persons. o The concert owed much of its success to T. B. Morton, president of the Afro- American League, and the reception com- mittee, as follows: Miss Eliza Lee, Mrs. K. McGee, Mrs. Dora Molteno, Mrs. M. Thompson, Miss Ivy Gibson, Miss A. Ca ter, The affair was under the auspices of the Young People’s Society of Christian Endeavor. ————— For Lost Cargo. United Btates District Judge Morrow yester- day ordered consolidated for the purposesof trial the case of the Bancroft-Whitney Com- pany against the sieamship Queen of the Pa- cific and that of H. W. Heilman and others sagainst the same defendant, and adjudged the plaintiffs in both cases are entitled 1o dam- ages. United States Commissioner Southard offman was authorized to ascertain and com- pule the damages and o report the same to 1he court. The damages are a<ked for 10ss to the cargo owned by the plaintiffs atthe time the steamer sank. ——— The new Bhah of Persia is anxious to open the country to international com- merce and favors the introduction of electricity and steam. STRANGE CASE OF WILLIAM McLEOD Convicted of Manslaughter in a Very Peculiar Manner. Declared Guilty Because His Wife Died of Heart Failure. Unfortunate R'sult of an Attempt to Ej.ct a Wem'n Who Intruded Up.n His Heme. William McLeod, convicted of man- slaughter for causing the death of his wife, was not sentenced by Judge Cook yesterday, the court expressing a desire to hear testimony touching the previous character of the prisoner before passing sentence. Attorney Arthur Mack announced that he had'several witnesses to prove the good character of the defendant, and he also drew attention to the fact that the jury bad recommended the prisoner to the ex- treme mercies of the court. McLeod’s case is a remarksble one in some respects. The information alleged ughter without malice, and the proof failed to show that the accused had used any intentional violence upon his wife. There was a witness who swore that McLeod cboked his wife, but this was discredited by the medical examination and was denied by the defendant. He admitted that he was engaged in a strug- gle with a woman whom he was attempt- ing to eject from his house, and that in the melee his wife was thrown against a chair and fell 10 the floor. There was no real injury to her, however, except that the excitement caused her to have an attack of heart failure that caused her death. This was the opinion of the physicians who made a post-mortem examination. One of the doctors said that any excite- ment might have been fatal; that she would have been liable todrop dead on seeing a runaway horse on the street. She was very friendly with the woman with whom her husband was struggling, and the excitement brought on the fatal at- tack. He complained that this woman nad made trouble between himself ana his wife and would not leave, though he had ordered her to do so. Tt was the theory of the prosecution that McLeod must have known that his wife was suffering from heart disease and that under the circumstances he was morally responsible for her death, even though he was without malice, for the reason that at the time of the occurrence he was in the commission of an unlawtui act—that is to say, he was committing assault and bat- tery on a human bein, McLeod’s attorney raised the conten- tion that his client was in his own house, and that he had a right to eject any per- son who was obnoxious to him. The response to this was that the per- son referred to had been invited into the house by Mrs. McLeod, and that if Mec. Leod wished to zet rid of her there was a legal way to accomplish tbat end; that the courts were open to him, and that he Icoum enforce bis rights by an action at aw. McLeod denied that he knew anything about his wife having heart disease, but the jury appeared to hold that he was not entirely blameless, and though not will- ing to let him go unscathed returned the most lenient verdict sanctioned by the code. MERCHANTS’ ASSOCIATION, Supervisors Petitioned to Contribute the Fourth of July Appropriation to the Unemployed Fund. The following petition has been for- warded to the Board of Supervisors by the Merchants’ Association of this Citv: SaN FRANCISCO, May 6, 1897, To the Honorable Board of Supervisors of {he City and. County of San Francisco—GENTLEMEN : At the regular meeting of the board ot direc- tors of the Merchants’ Association held to-day, it was unanimously decided to respectfully petit 01 your honorable Bosrd to devote the $3000 heretofore appropriated for the fourth of July celebration this year to the relief of the unemployed, provided it can legally be done. While " fully apprecisting the patriotic motives tuat have prompted the use of this sum snnually for the celebration of our Nauonal independence, we cannot_but feel, fo view of the fact that a number of our fellow citiz ns are sorely 1n need of the necessities of life, that _both patriotism and duty will be betier subserved this year by transferring the amount to the committee now in charge of the relief of the unemployed in our midst. Believing that such a course will meet with the unanimous approval of the taxpayers of this City, and trusting that your bonorable board will be able to consummate this worthy result, we remain very respectfully yours, MERCHANTS' ASSOCIATION. —_———— Organ-grinders in Vienna are not a lowed to play in the morning or eyening— only between midday and sunset. NEW TO-DA Freud's Corset House. SPECIAL SALE OF CORSETS. Corded Corset Waists and Shoulder Braces for Ladies, Misses and Children. The Ventilating or Summer Corset, new in style, perfect in shape. Price from 8OC up. Improved Cutaway Elastic Hip Corset. ° » SeE mogg ) CEEd @ <f8 o 5 Tm «5% : 2384 Al 1 > 2 T = ALis 2273 2% $ R i3e. - £ B R & L S PG "igg £553 § 5% P ] FEEL Pk S fFeaa ETS MADE TO ORDER AND RE- O TRED. FIT GUARANTEED. ‘ataiogue sent free to any ad- Our Niustrated dress. &5~ Mall Orders receive prompt attention. Make No Mistake in Our Address, M. FREUD & SON, 742744 Market St. and 10-12 Gr.nt Ave. LAWRENCE SYSTEM, The only one by which You can make a without trying on. PATTERNS. 126 OFARRELL ST, 'AND 1231 MARKET ST. e 5