The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 25, 1897, Page 28

(] ] THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 25, 1897. Once upon & time a poet wrote about a maiden who ‘‘wore a wreath of roses in | but I wonder what he wouid have written could he have seen the fair belles and ma this season. Indeea, I fancy he would have bean distracted and quite unable to hyme, as a simple wreath of roses would be scornfully derided by most of them. But in spite of many fearful and wonder- ful combinations how perfectly lovely are of the chapeaux; how well they suit the bright winsome faces that smile, dimple and blush beneath their hues. And the gowns! Truly never have they been quite so chic, charming snd capri- cious in fabrics and designs. It is a fact no longer disputed that our women impart a certain individual and delightful air to their simplest garments, and an intangible sometbing tnat the French women lack, for the principal dressmakers and milliners in this country find that our leaders of fashion demand a certain toning down of the colors and a modification of styles that does credit to her hair, their artisiic development and their sense | of the beautiful How gayly Easter week has passed. The luncheons, card parties, dinnersand the Oakland masked ball bave been each and every one quite delightful, and almost with relustance are many blanning to leave shortly for the mountains and sea- de, but as our summer winds increase in violence the exodus will begin. However the June weddings are to be numerous, and many will tarry yet awhile, for the summer wardrobes are as yet incomplete, and, when the latest engagements are not under discussion, endless are the remarks made and the questions asked concerning bats, ribbons and flowers, fabrics, laces, frilis and shirring, so I present you witn what I have Culled From Many Sources. A Parisian dress tnat Newport this summer black Chantilly lace over lettuce green silk. The bodice has a special cachet because of its having a mousseline de soic blouse between the lace and the silk. V. odd is the deep collar of black satin thet extends down the back in three long narrow points. the waist. Tue chapeau is a marvel of lace and black feathers, with a touch of green. Watered silk upon a tiny check will be one of the favorite materials all season for the fashionable fancy bodices. One beau- tiful model bodice just created is of Parma velvet. The front, of accordion- pleated mousseline de soie, is sewed over mauve silk, and a cascade of lace falls like a cloud over the vaporous chemisette. The throatand waist zre finished with a will be seen at is of handsome pleated band of velvet of a darker shade. | Lovely is a crepe de chine from a well- known house. It is silvery gray; the skirt is soft and clinging; is trimmed with a wide flounce edged with guipure over rose silk, and the vest carries out the same idea, the lining throughout being of rose taffers glace. With it goes a white and pink toque, from which spring two sprightly black ostrich tips; white gloves and a parasol of heavy lace over pink silk completes n chic toilet. Extremely attractive is a perfectly plain dress of light cray cloth for & young girl. It has a large square collar reaching to the bust and crossing, hemmed with white cloth. This is made in the Russian blouse have produced even a | Blaci satin also encircles | | style and overhangs & silver belt at the |dulged in you will find it quite a consid- back and at the front. The bishop sleeves | erable item of expense. are pathered into cuffs. Such blouses are | Many old Caiifornians own goodly storas at the present moment much worn in | of choice and costly laces. Indeed I have Paris by slender young maidens with | seen here some of the rarestold rose point, good figures, small waists and rather nar- | not just a yard or two, but great flounces, row hips. | sufficient to cover elaborately an entire One just noted of white cloth has quite | skirt. Such lace might grace the trous- | an elaborate trimming ot galoon, which | seau of a Princess. And another matron we can and at the neck it fastens with a large bow [ covering with gold pieces so as to se- of white chiffon, and this reminds me’curnil. | that you should all know that elaborate | Strange is 1t not the air imparted by ruchings, fussy bows, etc., about the throat | even a few inches of rare yellowish lace. are entirely out of date, the fashion hav- | I never think of a dear old granamother ing been made utterly ridiculous by the | without picturing her with a lot of lace | | | | | | A REDFERN TOILETTE. This chic gown of pale-gray, fine-faced cloth is ornamented with a tracery of black braid and gray cords. The full vest i8 of black velvet. The hat, which gives the necessary touch of color, is red straw, trimmed with & wreath of cherries and a drapery of red chiffon. numerous absurd exaggerations indulzed | here and there. in, 0 do away with ail such adornments | it you would not be utterly out of sty | and odd looking. | Lace. | The fact that lace is an important item | is evident to every one who bestows { even the smallest amount of attention on | ber wardrobe — for there is scarcely | a dress complete without a small piece | being used somewhere. For example, a smart lace cravat is quite the thing to wear with the severesi of tailor gowns. This may be made of maltese lace, mounted on white tulle, and wonderful | is the charm of a perfectly fresh tulle bow | properly cannot understand what there is to ad- higher sensibilities must be in truth dull and lacking in caltivation. | Now, since we must use cheaper weaves let us employ them with circumspection, using them only when unavoidable in in- conspicuous ways. Great collars, etc., of imitation laces are never indulged in by smart women, they considering a few yards of choice lace far preferable, and in many instances ribbons, especially the | narrow baby velvet ribbon, is all-sufficient | trimming. But do not imagine that one or two bolts (a tolt contains nearly ten vards) will be suflicient, for nearly fifty tied, but when constantly in- | yards bave been used on a simple little is traced in many shades of red, blue and | owns a precious fan of old point de green. With it is worn a gold belt, | Venise—just such cobwebby wonders | studded with enamels in different colors, understand the old Venetians Indeed the woman who | mire about lace I should avoid, as her India silk which I have just received from my dressmaker, and all of it, with the ex- ception of ten yvards, is on the waist. So you can readily comprehend how the New York dressmakers can consume such vast quantities, for numerous are the rufflas that beautily the skirts of the summer girl, and on each and every one, if velvet is utilized, must be three rows. Asa nat- ural result of this fashion being pooular, the manufacturers are utterly unable to meet the demands made upon them, and €0 our stores have not a full line of colors. Green seems to be in the greatest favor, and if you want to obtain a novel effect bave this velvet used instead of braid on a white vest, and if you seiect the correct color the result will be extremely chic. Foulards. Numberless are the questions I have been asked concerning foulards, and I can only say Iam very thankful that I did not indulge in a dark blue one with a | white figure, for exactly the same desizns are shown in calicos, lawns and organdies; | as a result they are going to be, to say the | least, excessively ordinary. However, my | remark does not include all foulards, for :ome of them are delightfully pretty and inexpensive, but those calculated to excite admiration are invariably the work of first-class dressmakers, who handle these goods with as much care as though they were designing frocks of costly satins and | brocades, but such fabrics must have im- paried to them a cestain indescribable art or they had best be promptly consigned | to the ragbag. Tea Gowns Are now such elaborate, complicated | creations that no longer are they regarded by even the most fastidious of men witi disapproval, for no more are they classi- fied with the untidy ‘‘Mother Hubbards’ or the nondescript “morning wrappers,” | 80 now and then I feel called upon to re- late the charms of some of these confec- | tions, since Worth, Paquin and many other artists consider them worthy of their serious thought and most artistic | exertions. We may replace the afternoon cup of tea during the summer months by some more cooling drink, just as the gowns f | rich and heavy silk or cloth now give way | to airy fabrics that look as though woven by the fairies’ fingers out of moonbeams, cobwebs, dewdrops and such flowers as Queen Titania twists into marveious garlands for her hair. Positively I feel my inability to do jus- | tice to some of the tea gowns which wil shortly be worn by adainty bride who has always been noted for her exquisite taste. However, I can e you some idea of two—one of lettuce green, the other of | cerise taffeta and white crepe. The foun- | dation of the first is built of lettuce- colored taffeta silk, shaded with a silvery | white. Over this is the sheerest of French organdy, covered—yes, encrustea—with real Valenciennes lace and insertion. This lace edges a deep frill thatextends sround the bottom. It has three rows of one- inch-wide insertion. are bordered on either side with tiny lace | fril's. The body of the gown is a mass of lace and insertion, and the deep-roliing collar is most becoming to ithe round white throat. A great bow of taffeta ties in the back. Now do not exclaim over the extrayagance of such a gown. To be |it is drawn into a band above the wrist | princess THE LATEST IN A foundation waist of blue silk 1s covered soft fullness drawn into a waistband of blue silk, tied at the left side into & big bow. The | onl relate the charms of & certain ewmpire tea- gown composed entirely of soft, rich silk. It falls gracefo! from a yoke of creamy ecru guipure of & heavy quality, cat | square so as to reveal a pretty throat. It also forms a sort of little cap for the sleeves, which wrinkle soitly to the wrists. \ In color the silk is of a vivid serpent green, and round the bottom on the inside are two luce-edged ruffles of creamy white silk. You can understand how well this styleand color suits a graceful but very slender brunette. MARCELLA. For Men. The best turned-out men are wearing to their offices single or double breasted sack If you prefer the siugie-oreasted suits. style your entire suit may be of the | fabric; a quiet, serviceable plaid will prove | most satisfactory. However, 1n case a doubie-breasied coat suits you beiter order | a biue or black one. You may have t e trousers match, but most prefer to Luve fency trousers. The covert coat and sack suit go well together, and such coats are being cut with full, loose back. Complete your morning costume with either a derby ora soft Hamburg hat, a madras or chevioi shirt (striped effects are considered smart, as are also checks) and a rumchunda tie | of the butterfly pattern, wnich is made | especially to wear with a high banded | turn-down collar of whate linen, for if you wear a standing collar a tie or four-in- hand is appropriate. Your glove should be either heavy dog- skins or tan-colored suedes. The dog- skins are best liked, and either russet or SMART BLOUSES. | calf shoes are correct, but no longer are h an open-work embroidery of grass lawn, the | they (o be shined; they may be polished shiny shoes being considered hor- slecves are absolutely tight from waist to shoulder, where they are finished with a chiff n | ribly bad form in New York. Men may now ruffle, matching in color the grass lawn. an immense collar of finely tucked black silk wi It is edged with chiffon. The black silk neck ru To compensate for the plain sleeves this blouse ha | exhibit much originality in the selection of th insertion bands of grass-lawn embroidery their shirts, cravats and waistcoats, for flle is soltened with chiffon. | many are the colors and combinations would make many feel called uvon to ex- vress their views on the subject, and the | exquisite needlework kept one woman | busy for neariv a month. Indeed this year expert needlewomen will certainly be ata premium, as never since the in- vention of the sewing machine Las there been such a demand for fine hand work, as innumerable are the garments and | dresses that must be made without tbe | aid of our machines, and the French besd- | ings that must be letin, with the inser- | tions, give an incredible amount of work. | There is a decided tendency to return to | the shapeless sleeves which years ago | were in fashion—they have only a seam | inside the arm. Such sleeves usually have insertion let in perpendicularly or | diagonally. The pagoda sleeve is worn— with a frill beyond. The cerise costume is completely veilea with an ex uisite white china crepe, which has a square yoke, the threads of which appear to have been drawn, and lines upon lines of hemstitching permit us to see through the fine meshes the bright-huea silk that lends a rosy hue to the softly falling folds of crepe. The sleeves are wrinkled, a la mousquetaire, and are finished, as is the yoke, with soft fuil of lace. Otherwise the gown is unadorned; but the foundation slip has three ruffles edged with cream white lace, Encircling the slender waist is a band of | cerise velvet, which terminates in the vack in a short and frisk bow. A delicious gown, is it not? The cut is strictly a style far from becoming to any but slender, graceful figuras; but I can quite distinctly hear some of my readers say, “‘Such materials are quite too costly for us. Do teil us about simpler things.” Well, for instance, take an evening dress that is no longer fit for active ser- | vice, rip 1t up, have it cleaned by & thor- oughly responsible man, and on its re- turn home see whether it will not make a satisfactory foundation for a pretty or- gandy; say 1t is an old lavender silk; 1t you are slim have it cut princess; if plump bave a five-gored skirt and a smart tea | 1 ‘ Down the sides are five insertions, which | | | | sure the money spent on the lace alone jacket. I have just seen une made in this way: The silk, lavender in color, was o 1 1. waistband mauve velvet. This dainty green cashmere gown has a bodice in the form of a tri and cuffs repent the Parma velvet. Cream satin ribbon forms the cravat. 2 Gray cashmere gown, the bodice covered with black chiffon tucked and overlaid with three bands of black satin, The sleeves and skirt are ornamented with clusters of tucks. 8. Thesun-pieated skirtof this delightful model is made of biack canva: with the loveliest of green and pink embroidery. NEW SPRING COSTUMES OF SWELL SAN At the waist are double bandsof black satin drawn tarough steel buckl FRANCISCO GIRLS. ple bolero hanging {rom the yoko of lace over Parma velvet, and revealing a vest of ivory chiffon tucked and horizontally striped by lace insertion. The belt The yoke is formed of strips of tucked black chiffon and cream insertion. The side frill is chiffon and the s grenadine trimmed with rows of b ack satin ribbon. The grenadine is mounted on a silk foundation skirt, biscuit colored. The bodice of silk is traced and lace hangs from the shouldets each side of a kilted grenadine vest. ~ | offered, but the popularity of fancy waist- surah, and therefore had a lining, so as to | €oats will indeed be short lived unless give it sufficient body; round the bottom | care is taken to avoid loud colors, and re- was a six-inch wide ruffle-edged and bro- | member that it is extremely bad taste to caded with a cheap but good imitation | Wear one that does not harmonize with Valenciennes lace; over this fell a skirt of | your smit. pure white organdy, with wide stripes of | Concerning waistcoats Him writes: lilacs separated from one another by half- | ‘‘The tailors on ibe avenue are still agi- inch stripes of vivid green. The skirthad | tating fancy waistcoats. They have three lace-edged friils, and the jacket was | brought out special vests for golf, wheel- cut like a little coat. A deep rolling collar | ing. riding, driving, business and full e e llar | Gress. For goif and cycling the cloths Toished with lace was effective, as were | (0" 4q ratner loud . fannels. These : : fabrics are made up into single-breasted The vest over lavender silk was of alter- | waistcoats, with .arge oval or round bone nate rows of green ribbon and white in- | buttons and flap vockets. The riding sertion. waisicoat is made’ single-breasted, of bult If you have not a silk foundation you | OF scarlet cloth. The formal waistcoats i 5 FOU | for wear with the Albert coat are made of Sone now vers ety sue. earneve 103t | fho sk Becford cord, overshot with weo 20| gilk dots of blue or bright seli- extensively used will answer your purpose, | buff, Worsteds are also used, the favorite but if you have limited means and require | shades being cadet, slate and tan. cool, light garments remember that the| ow to dress on board a yachtisnot charm of sucu simple things consists in | Wnderstood by some, so let me inform their perfect freshness, s0 if economical | YOU that if you desire to be weil turned i i ¢l | Gut you must wear a blue serge coat—a ideas must prevail let me advocate white | double-breasted one, fastened with three | in preference to colored organdies, etc., as | jarge black club buttons—a white vest, even when handled with the greatest care | which may be either single or double how transitory they are. Ureasted ; white linen duck trousears, turned India silk may likewise be employed | up at tbe bottom; white shoes with rub- 5 et ber soles, and your cap should have a with the happiest results, as many of even | patent leather peak and black soutache the most inexpensive wash verfectly, and | band. Your shirt may be either of flan. certainly they hang artistically about the | nel or madras, made with a white coliar, figure. and a ramchunda tie. Never make the Before leaving this topic I must briefly | Mistake of wearing ordinary shoes NEW TO-DAY. $300 in CASH]|, 25 FREE! A PATTER fp L PATTEH HOW many words do you think you can correctly spell with the letters in the word . «METROPOLITAN ?” Use each letter as desired, but not more tim s than it appears in “METROPOLIL TAN.” Verbs, pronouns, adverbs, nonns, s. plurals, allowed. Words speiled aving different meanings, count Engiish words ount. Proper Gbaotet words” do_not count. 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