The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, April 4, 1897, Page 28

i THE SAN FRANCISCO CALL, SUNDAY, APRIL 4, 1897. BONNY GOWN P-TO-DATE women combine this y with most of their | irs and asting party, as it is extremely amusing. The invitation is expressed in odd and | pretty, but very formal sentences, pre- sumably a la Jepanese, and it is written or engraved on a large sheet of Japal rice paper, over which are scatter tinct cherry blossom tea horses and ri It is delicately scented, and folded narrow and long, a thread of scarlet silk holding it together. | On one’s arrival at the home of her hostess her eyes will be delighted with | great beds of gorgeous tulips boxes, arranged in every avail and where they cannot be piac vantage will be pots of w d purple flowering lilacs. Half a dozen or more tables will ke arranged around the room, on which will be placed truly oriental tea | equipages, but more gorgeous than all | the flowers and more lovely to gaze upon | will be the hostess and the pretty maidens who will assist her, all being arrayed in | the richest and most beautifui of bro- caded costumes, such as Japanese ladies of moble birth don on great occasions in | the Flowery Kingdom. The girls preside over the tables and each is provided with a tiny pad, pencil | and purse, and after you have had a cup | of tea you pay 10 cents for it and on the pad you register your guess as to what tea | you have been drinking, and to the guest | Who guesses most correctly is given some | charming prize—a queer bit of embroid- | ery, an exquisite piece of china or a rare | specimen of ivory richly carved. Of | course, a tour of all the tables must be | made, but I almost forgot to tell you that | before even entering the tearoom, or | rooms, you must drop at least $1into the | almsbox at the door, for ail the money | collected goes to aid some worthy charity. | O1 course, the hostess and her assistants | have their hair and eyebrows made as | Oriental in appearance as possible, and | many an English butler has been seen re- cently in the full regalia of a Japanese | head servant, and the orchestra must be | from Japan. These functions are in great vogue 1n New York, asare also perfume parties. These, however, are ziven in the even- ing and fancy dress is de rigneur. The | idea of the perfume party is to burn or otherwise liberate various fragrant ex- tracts, tne prize being awarded to the fortunate possessor of the most delicate sense of smell. This idea is of Eastern origin, as in that part of the world toe test of a refined nose is the ability with which it can distinguish between dozens of different spices, pas- tiles, syrups and delicate powders slowly burned in a copper brazier or swung aloft in a jeweled and fretted temple censer. Out in Japan, China and India only the | strictly native perfumes are used, but the clever American hostess goes a step fur- ther. She firstsends out her invitations on delicately scented paper and when a | perfume party is iven all other odorous | substances save that to be exposed in the brazier are expelled from her drawing. room. This means no flowers are used, and every one is expected to come without so much as & drop of cclogne on the handkerchief. In the center of the draw- ing-room’s parquette floor a luxurious divan is placed or a number of silk lows heaped. Before the pillows sits a Benares brass perfume-burner, and every guest, when ready to try their luck at jdentifying sweet odors, first propitiates a tall ivory goddess on a lovely teakwood shrine in one corner of the room by drop- ping a piece of silver into a platter at Ler feet. In reality the goddess is only a quaint sham, for her devotees' offerings go to swell the funds of a babies’ hospital. But no matter, that is part of the fan, s0 after piously offering to the ivory lady on the lotus. flower, the guest has a square of soft red Oriental silk tied about his or her eyes, and is then led to the cushions. Here it is the proper | thing to sit Turk hion, while from mysterious little boxes ‘onto live coals in'the brazier a few pellets are dropped. & wreath of delicate blue smoke arises a great sniffing epsues, and the blind- folded person suggests & name for the rich aromatic or evanescent aroma that fills the air. Besides the Eastern essencas Spices are subjected to the heat, a bit of cambric moistened in a cologne or purely | For Everyday Wear. Tailor-made suits are to be universally worn by smart women as stieet costumes and when traveling. The skirt 2nd jacket combidstion will be most popular. Itis certainly surprising how many changes are made in so simple a model. The Eton jacket will also be much worn, but the bolero models are more fashionable. The strictly plain tailor gown is worn principally by business and professional women. The leading tailors will reap a harvest, as the braiding and ornamenta- tion of some of the handsomest costumes make them exceedingly costly, ana, with- out exception, all must be made over silks of a very superior quality. Many of the models recently shown, although desti- tute of trimming or braid, are of such beautiful cloth that the effect is most ex- cellent. So all may be well gowned by their tailors provided they avoid exagger- ations. The braided Eton jacket is the naturap sequence of the bolero, from which it differs mainly in possessing sieeves, whereby it may rank as a species of coat. The decoration in braid frequently im- parts to it the character of the military mess jacket. Tailor skirts continue to grow smaller by degrees and must fit smoothly around the hips. Only around the hem is any stiffen- ing allowed. and then only three or four inches, so as to induce the braid ing or the machine stitching to set symmetrically. | The tiniest of bustles are being worn, placed in the back, just where so many women areconcave, for when a skirt is ab- solutely ti ht just below the waistitsome- | times reveals ugly lines. But there is no | nothing more than a high flat band suit- | reason to fear the return of the larg bustte for many seasons yet to come. | The latest cloths are extremely light, but thicker than usual on sccount of the very | elaborate patterns braided on them, and | moderate in size and <et in small pleats at the top, but the regular coat sleeves are cestainly, to my mind, by far the most stylish, and will shortly enjoy the great- est vogue. Indeed, I strongly advise you in orderinz a handsome suit or jacket to have this variety of sleeve. Some plump women consider that the basque bodice cutinto tabs is more becoming to them than any other style in cloth, and as a re- | sult a tew orders are being given for them. Harper's Bazaar states that short jackets are again in siyle this season, and both | black and light colored cloths will be worn. The covert coats are as jaunty and smart | as ever, with little or no change in cut, | single-breasted, with very narrow revers | open just a little way at the throat, ore bias dart to give the desired curve at the side, and tight-fitting in the back, with no flare nor ripple. The covert cloths are never praided and even the black cheviots and campel's-hair are now often made plain; if braided, the hand braiding is re- | quired, not machine work. In all the jackets the cut and fit are more considered than anything else; the sleeves are very much smaliér, merely wide enough at the top to allow for the fullness of the dress sieeve, and are gatheredinto the armhole, 50 that they stand out from the shoulders, giving the desired width, Another popular style of jacket is made with a straight, flat front, which opens on the left side and is fastened by four nar- row, leaf-shaped tabs, cut out of thecloth | front and bound and stitched with the same braid with which the jacke: is trimmed, and buttoning to four pearl but- | tons. Near the buttons, on the left, there is a small flap-pocket. The cloth collar is | able for a ruff, or the new little circular linen cellar flaring out like a rim. Thousands of women are now planning ordering their tatlor gowns, and I there- fore wish to present as concizely as possi- | appear as plain skirts are not much in evidence. A noted tailor has, within the past few weeks, completed several attractive FOR SPRING. occidental extract from flowers, and every decision given by the blindfolded person carefully registered. At the end of the evening the tally is made up, and to the man or woman whose nose was most faith- iul to the trust confided in it falls a prize | of a gor.eous sachet, silver colozne jug or e other equally appropriate trophy. The fancy dresses worn on such occa- sions are varied, but most of the women astern dancing girls, musmes, boot ladies, and the men are pic- turesque in turbans, Oriental scarf: slippers, a few daggers and the rest of tog- gery requisite. gray cloth dresses. One of these is orna- | mented from ths hem to the knees with | rows of braid and another shows a fanci- | | ful design also extended to the knees. | A very artistic gown displays a beauti- | ful vine pattern carried around the bot- tom. Almost equally chic is another cos- tume elaborately ornamented with an | Egyptian design in black on a gray back- | The same artist in cloth is | stocking jackets, which range from the | bolero to tue reefer. The former is made tight-fitting to the waist, and in most | cases covered with a beautiful pattern in | braid, which extends to the Medici collar, | which completes it at the neck. The reefer is usually left plain and fastens at one side with large buttons. | ground. ‘The sleeves most generally seen l"llufieus plisse, with an enormous black ble descriptions of the latest and hand- somest seen thus far this season in New York, London, Paris and Vienna. | At the Auteuil steeplechases the Prin- | cess de Polignac had on a blue serge cos- tume, with a wide trimiaing at the foot of the skirt of white and ecru cloth, cut out| | and inteclaced; bolero bodice, with whitey | revers embroidered with steel, the lower part of the bodice striped with white and | ecru clotn; white waistcoat, covered with chiffon, and lace cravat; black straw toquet, with black feathers. A Rouma- nian lady wore a soft black cloth dress, made with plain skirt, bolero bodice, em- broidered with steel, mixed with a little gold and jet, opening over a small waist- coat of cerise velvet, over which was a plastron and revers of ecru lace; waist and neck band of biack satin, with a bow | at the back of the neck; toque of black i | | Poppy, and white suede gloves. Quite a number of women wore red cloth dres: on the skirts and bodices of which were black mohair braid. Indeed tne fancy for red promises to continue for the next three months. Very cffective is a creation made with the loose style of coat of a drab broad- cloth. On the skirt, above the knees, is carried out a fanciful design in braid. Tae cont hangs straight from the neck almost to the waist and is trimmed with the braid and buttoned with unique enamel battons. A deep collar turns up round the neck and is notched in tabs around the top. The sleeves are cut in the same form at the wrist and are outlined with braid. Very simple but stylish is the tailor suit owned by a New York girl, of blus covert coating, with lapped seams, velvet collar and cuffs ana a lining of shot zreen and blue silk. The coat is very long. has a deep turned down collar and large sharply pointed revers. The coat is cut as to show to advantage 8 smart waistcoat, with six large buttons and a large turned-down collar. The shirt has one siud and a tremendously | hign collar, with which s worn a spright- ly cravat. Oi course this Eastern girl is unusually tall and very slender, other- wise she coutd not stand such a revers or such a collar. Completing this toilette is ablue straw walking bat, trimmed with a large bow of some soft white stuff, from the center of which arises a large black aigrette, held in place by a buckle. A London belle wears a conception built of box cloth, with a coat of Chester- field cat. The cloth is putty color and all the seams and edges are piped with helio- trope velver. The revers are of the cloth applique, outlined by putty-colored braia over heliotrope velvet. Rumor declares that amethyst purple is to be in great demand, and a great English tailor has sent home a dress of satin cloth in this shade. Its coat isa regular Chesterfield, and the entire cos- tume Is beautified by the use of black velvet, outlined by black and gold braid. From these descriptions it is easy to see that styles to suit every shade and form and all occasions are to be had. Hence the great vopularity of the tailor gown. Coat for a Child. I have no intention of slighting the voung people, so will tell you about a little coat, made of drab box cloth, with a pointed yoke and pointed pieces over the tops of the sleeves, outliced with stitched strapoings. It hangs at the back in two box pleats, and is quite straight in front. Any child-from seven to twelve might wear such a coat. The box-pleated back may be replaced by an ordinary sacback of moderate fullness. The sleeves are medium, the collar high and notched. Six large buttons adorn the front and two pockets. The entire garment is aouble stiiched with silk. MARCELLA. KEITH'S Easter display readv. Sed window.® Wearing of the Green. It is the wearing of the green in earn- est. Jackets, capes, dresses, hats — all things that women count among their ex- terior clothin: are akin to the Emerald Isle, at least in color. It is the gray green of the sheathed bud that contains the flower ready to bloom, the aelicate tint of the bud itsell, and the brighter coloring of the expanded leaf. Violet shades, particu- layly Parma violet, rank second only to Some New Fashions in Vests and Jewelry for Men. As for styles 1n men’s clothing in the | seven buttons and the edges are double-| four buttons and with an opening of about | matter of vests, preterence for something ‘fancy’ is more marked than it has been | for years. For dress purposes the latest | innovations are figured «ilk vests in black or white. They are marked and brocaded in elaborately handsome patterns, and the finest aro of heavy hand-made mate- ial whose texture is very difficult to imi- tate in any sort of cheap goods. Spitals- fields silk is a_specially choice goods for this purpose. Some of San Francisco's fashionable tailors have an array of fancy vestings that in richness would rival anything the ladies wear. Some patterns are of white | and gold, with the gold appearing faintly, and they are masterpieces of the textile art. Others in black are so rich in design as to fairly fascinate the eye. A few pat- terns in drab and lavender are also very handsome, and & design which is a favor- ite is white with a blue silk figure woven through it. The large patterns are rec- ommended as showing to the best advan- tage when worn, as they do not show nearly so conspicuously then as when seen in the goods in the bolt. Demi-dress vests show either a single- breasted effect with a notched collar or ( are double-breasted, with lapels cut off. The edges are finished to correspond with those of the coat. For evening dress the U-sbaped cut is the standard for this sea- son, but the fashionable tailors say the majority of the best-dressed men here prefer to adhere to the V shape, which has an incomparably better set aud pre- vents an awkward bulging of the stiff shirt bosom. In business suits the single-breasted, no-collar vest 18 much lized, althongh it is ot the prime favorite. It has six or | stitchea. is fourteen inches. In a single-br:asted general what lower. It closes with five buttons and the edges are single-stitched. The single-breasted notch-coliar vest perhaps the most popular style for demi- dress. Iiismade of a variety of materials, There are some new and very neat designs in worsted. They generally close wilh five buttons, but this is usually subject to the tallness and taste of the wearer. The single-breasted dress vest is more com- monly worn than the double-breasted, but fashion leaves the preference entirely to the wearer, and whether they are black or white is also left to the discretion and faney of the individual. But it is de- cidedly the growing fasbion that vestings should be ornately fancy, and authorities predict that fancy colors will soon be worn for dress purposes. In fact they are already being worn by a limited number. The openings in dress vests of this pattern should be 20 inches, ana the buttons should not be crowded. It Las but two pockets. The double-breasted dress vest closes with but three buttons unless the wearer is unusually long in the body. A double-breasted vest made of wash- able fabrics will be moch worn this sum- coat or a single-breasted walking co These have four pockets, are closed with fancy as you please, striking effect. A style now much in vogue for walking is in very fancy vestings, with double breast and the lapels cut off, ciosed with The opening for ordinary sizes shawl, or rolling-collar vest, intended for | to have the call to a slight extent over the purposes, the opening is some- | ghawl co!lar. mer, either with a double-breasted frock | vests in washable goods. three buttons and may be well nigh as |8 wide variety, and it would be hard to White, with a figure | choose from among so many neat designs woven in of coloréd silk, gives a very |that which excels in beauty. fourteen inches. In evening dress the peaked lapel is said ‘The reports from England say that the | fancy Spitalsfield silk vestings have, after many predictions that they would fail of wide acceptance, forced their way into prominence and are now very freely made. | They are beinzg made even by leading West End houses, who at first ridiculed the idea because it did not emanate from themselves. San Francisco tailors agree | that the time is ripe for something fetoh- ing in waistcoats generally, and the pub- | licis taking very kindly to the fashion. Those who object to gorgeousness on gen- eral princinles must hasten to put away prejudice and get their mind into a con- dition to take delight in the rich beauty of the fashion while it lasts. Somo of the fashionavle tailors have s washable goods for waistcoats in linen of drill and duck texture. ' They are beau- tifully woven and have.a very rich.look, | without being in the least gaudy. They are in shades of tan and fawn. White summer vests will not be worn on the street. | At the fashionable haberdashers there are some very handsome styles of fancy Some of the | tastiest of these are of heavy linen crash, woven in basket-work patterns. There is In these vests the prevailing style provides for large patch pockets. In the matter of jewelry preferred by tasty men thero has been little or mno SOME THINGS THAT STYLISH MEN | designs green in point of popularity. Very light change for thisseason. Link cuff-buttons are still worn and the oval shape is most used. A very tasty article in this line, which combines beauty with simplicity, isa plain oval of Roman gold. In this the richness of the metal’s color is brought out in a very pleasing way. Other favor- ite designs are ovals of gold setting, con- taining some of the semi-precious stone: such as topaz, amethyst and garnet. The dumbbell pattern of cuff-buiton 1s consid- erably worn. Some of these, made of car- buncle amethysts, are very pretty. For mourning these dumbbells of jet are simple and tasty. Some of the watch fobs now worn with evening dress are of very handsome desien. The contrast of the gold bands across the black silk make both gold and silkc more beautiful. A very tasty one here shown starts with a tiny swivel and a few very slender links, while below, to a cleverly designed buckle, is suspended the gold enclosure of an onyx charm. Other in vogue are fac-simiies of old- fashioned seals. For other than evening dress watch chains of either the single or double stvle are equaily fashionable. Some of the handsomest are of gold in single links, and get their beauty more from daintiness of workmanship thanany broad display of the precious metal. There will probably always be a few men who will continne to like to wear finger- rings. For those the newest aad hund- somest are either diamonds or combina- tions of precious stones sunk deep into a heavy protuberation of gold in the style called gypsy setting. Magnificent things in coiled serpents with eyes of diamonds, suggestive of the wicked power of fascina- tion, are out in new designs and are much liked. ——————— Kerra's—The people are proud of us.” Uy, THIS tones of stone color are often worn, as are chestnut, russet and cinnamon brewn. One of the popular costumes in grey- green cloth is trimmed with emeralds, or imitations thereof, and steel galon. The bolero-shaped short bodice is fastened with cne large alleged emerald and steel but- ton, over a full vest of pale Parma violet silk. The reversare edged with galon and the sleeves finished off with the same at the wrists, and frills of lace, the high- tabbed collar being treated in a similar | manner. A hat of coarse gray-green straw, which completes the costume, has a twist of violet silk around the crown and a| bunch of shaded ostrich feathers starting from an emerald and steel square buckle. Really, nowever, the topic of the hour is the coat and skiit. Are they to be dark, light, plain or braided? Must the jacket be long or short? The genuis who answers these questions must consider | herself a mainstay of fashion. The diplo- matic one says, bave a coat and skirt of both kinds. If you cannot have but one, however, take a gray or drab cloth. This is positively fashionable, no matter who says itis not. The people who rule fash. | ion and frame the dictates of the fickle dame say it is so. Then a dark cloth dress is very excellent. There is no use trying to deny the fact that tue skirts of | the hour are trimmed. Plain rows of | braiding will meet the demand of fashion | for decorstion, and an excelient way of treating these is to permit them to extend their influence around the back and te-- minate in a small curl design on either | side of the front seams. A model costume is evolved from the decoration of a plain skirt of dark blue with rows of machine stitching up to the knees, the coat of this being cut into square tabs reaching to the waist, not | tight fitting, yet scarcely deserving the title of sack. This coat fastens over at one side with vointed revers faced with guipure and is worn over a bodice of blue and green plaid glace, showing a waistcoat of guipure mounted on lisse. The hat to this is made of blue and green shot straw, trimmed with large rosettes of glace rib- bon and a bunch ot blue poppies with green centers. This is to be a year of brilliant millin- ery. The combination of color is some- thing to be remembered, and not always because it is pretty. For instance, one model is of bright blue and green straw, with large mauve iris arranged in aigretto form and twists of all the colors in silk, fastened with large paste ornaments. The crown is high and the brim broad. And tbe'milliner says that hats wiil be larger yet. Verily, if we are ultra-fashionable this season we will have to suffer for it. | Straw hats are decorated with bands | of folded ribbon set on the top of the crown, with huge bunches of violets or primulas on each side. The coloring of the new straws is vivid in the extreme, including the brightest ol blues, greens and pinks. The hat-crowns now rival the brims in XEW TO-DAY. [mperial Hair Regenerator will make the hair beauti- tul, giossy and natural, no matter how Streaky, BL ACHED or GR Y i{ may be. 1t is clean, odorless, Iast- ing. Itdoesnotcontain an | 8) ntom of poisonous matter. | Baths do not affect it, | neither does curling -or ! crimping. Incomparable ) forthe B&:ARD on account of its durability and clean- liness. 1. Black. No. 2, Dark Brown. No. 3, Medium Brown. No.4,Chestnut No. 5, Light Chestnut. No. 6, Gold Blonde No. 7. Ash Blonde. Price $1 50 and 00. Sole Manufacturers ana Patentee: Imperial Chemical Mfg. Co., 292 Fifth av.. N, Y. For sale bv Drugzists and b irdressars. In San Francisco sold aud applied by St Strozynski and Goldstein & Cohn. B REMOVED From 1170 Market Street, over * The Maze."" ENTRANCE 6 EDDY ST. ROOMS -38-39 SF. Removes superfluous hai- by means of the electric needle, without pain or scar. Moles, warts, etc., also removed. Permanency guaranteed. LAWREXCE SYSTEM, [ The only one by which | you can make a garment | without trying on. i PATIERNS. 1231 MARKET ST. T and 126 O'Facrell St. /e IS FASHIONABLE FOR APRIL. 7 iy PG V0 A GAE o\ shape, they are becoming so wide. Large wings start out from each side of the vele vet or satin fronts, making them wider ill. KEeITR's exclusive millinery house has the goods. . e Nearly £500,000 worth of artificial flow- ers are sold in London yearly. pition i3 gl AL¥A E. Kerrn different hats shown daily.® e foe Some of the spiders of the Bast Indies are so large that they devour small birds. 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The above rewards out consideration for the tracting attentios to our handsome . zine. thiriy-six pages. 144 long cole us:rated, ‘snd ali crigival matter, tories by the best authors: price, Toenter the contest. 1 15 nece 125 cents In_stamps or sily trial_subscripiion with your 1 every person sending the 25 and a ist of twenty words or more Is guar- xira present, by return matl (n_addi- zine), of a 1b8-page book. *Treas- sert Louis Steven: and tbrlling ad 0 guar nieed in ovir: shouid be seni ul once. and not 15. ‘The nams and_ nudresses of proper word fora three mon: _essful contestan:s witl be pri-ted in June is- sux, pubiished in May. « urpublication has be-n estanlished Lén years.” We ref r you to anv mer- cantile agency for our s ancing. Adddre WOMAN'S WORLD PUBLISH- -6-7 Temple Court Bullding, New Are you a smart spes er? 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TEé pub- Isher of THE AuERicAX WoMAN Will give away, on May 15, the sum of 8500, divided into prizes, the I st 15t3 of words as above. $10010 the person making the largest lis $30 for the second larg. est; 25 each for the next Ihree largest lists; $20 each for the three next largest; 615 to each of the next three; $10to each of the next Rine; and §210 each of the nextforty largest lists. Wo want you to know our paper, and it 1s for «iis reason we offer these premiums. e make no cxtra charge for the privilege of entering this word-bullding con- test, but it is necessary to send us 25 cents, ollver or stamps, for wiich we will sezid you our handsome fl- lustratéd 23-pago megazine for six months, and tho very dny we receive your remittance we will mail you free tlie following ten popular novels, by well- Known auth £ assage,” by Beatrice H. raden: “The False Friend,” by Virginia F. 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