The San Francisco Call. Newspaper, March 28, 1897, Page 24

MARCH 28, 1897. H ISCO CALL, SUNDAY, ' deep frill of black thread lace completes 3 it. One possessing almost equal charms, alsoin black and white, bas a round ) the spring fashions have been'so late in making their advent this season, but even now the great dressmakers are slow in issuing their fiats. At first this delay caused many of the lesser lumin- aries to pause in anxious anticipation of great changes, but after all no great novel- ties are to be introduced in the cut of our frocks, only modifications of what we bhave already. However, althougb our skirts are some of them to remain plain, or ornamented only with flat trimming when tue fabric used is sufficientiy heavy, ruches, flounces or plisses appearing only in mulls, organdies, ete, our bodices are to be simply marvels of richness, and the art of making these shirred, tucked and trimmed affairs successfuily is entirely beyond the powers of the ordi- nary dressmaker. They are to fit closely in the back and round the waist, and are made round or with a slight point on the shoulders, and in front they are fuil and fussy. Bleeves are to be long and plain, with a very moderate bouffant at the top, which falls softly on the uppbr part of the arm, or a small crossway flounce or some {%T WOULD be difficult to. explain why ornament or motif. Gray and red are enjoying a great vogue in Paris, and embroideries and trimmings are to be had in the most gorgeous and exquisite designs imaginable. Short capes or pelerines and small dressy scarfs are being snown by the ultra-exclusive houses, and_the newest, most fashionable cloth for thehandsomest dresses is satin cloth, which is also al- Iuded to as satin de lain. It is a solid, soft, shining fabric. Hats and Bonnets. I presume we have ail been to six open- t least recently, but few of us have brought away any very general ideas as to what the fashions are to be for the coming months, and the reason is easily explained. There are =0 many styles that as yet we cannot arrive at any positive conclusions. That toques and turbans will be in evidence is an assured fact, |and much red straw as well as cerise is being employed. Such hats are most effective when trimmed with black tulle and shaded geraniums. Toques are to heave crowns in proportion, and hats are being shown with.smaller brims, - Dressy. toques come in mousseline de soie. These are the latest, but tulle and lace are like- wize used. Some almost as smart are covered with very small flowers, for example, a ‘“‘geranium toque, with the varied shades of red or pink, or mingled varieties, with the left side smartly aigretted, would always be a ‘perfect love,’ There are violets, cyclamens, but- ton roses and forget-me-nots to choose frem, with their beautiful foliage, which, if nature makes unweildy, ar interposes and fits 1t for the occasion.”” Indeed onr headgear is daring in con- ception and delightful in form, color and texture; but no one who is au fait pre- tends that “‘the ultra-smart’’ Paris hat has reached our shores, for we all know, if we are posted on Paris customs, that the choicest models—the real inspirations— are reserved for the brilliant assemblages at the spring races—at Chantilly, at Auteuil and Longchamps. Where, except |at the Grand Prix de Paris, can such a gathering of exquisitely dressed women be seen the wocd over? The tnglish Derby is a fine sight, but it is quite eclipsed by the finer one across the chan- nel. Among the millinery triumphs just re- vorted note a hat of vegetable fiber, dved arich purple, trimmed with hundreds of purple violets that nestle in the tucked purple chiffon, Another delightfully be- coming to a piquant oval face is composed entirelv of cream lace and has three broad brims, one above the other, bound with black velvet, and over the left side droops a-long, biack plume, but on the right is & huge black osprey standing erect. Truly worthy of an archly beautiful face is an immense poke bunnet of Tuscan straw, with rosettes and strings of white moire and a panoche of white ostrich plumes, and a draped curtain of poimnt d’Alencon finishes the left side of the brim. In the front of this most picturesque poke is a bunch of pale pink and blush roses on one side and a trio of tiny white tips on'the other—a charming reproduc- tion of the early Victorian fashion. Quite stunning is a Parisian confection of black drawn net, which has the brim LATEST IDEAS IN RECEPTION AND VISITING COSTUMES. 1. Reception gown in velvet and cream guipure. Collar and sleeves frilled with guipure. Platn skirt. 2. Pale gray green cashmere cloth gown. The skirt has a row ot black braidin figure by & wide beit of black satin, which passes through openings at each side. 3. Princess dress of gray cloth or peau de sole, trimmed with velvet set on in Vandykes. high collar. Silk muslin bow. 4. Pinkish tan transparent material is used for the skirt of this stylish model. Two frills of with bleck satin ribbon also. The sleeves correspond. At the top the front is cut in V shapeovera Bodice of the lace coufined round the waist by a velvet belt fasiened with strass clasp. Short bolero of velvet with lacings in front. g at the foot. The smart little coat hasa plain vest of the cloth closed at the side, and is confined to the chemisette of pink velvet, the same lining the black satin ribbon are sewed on in festoons. The little coat of the same goods is striped In Men’s Shoes Three New Styles Will Be Seen In conformity with the comfortable suits of Scotch tweed, loose-woven bome- spun and other rough material, the well- to-do man will this season wear shoes whose shapes will bring comfort to him, although they will not in themselves be remarkable for their symmetry. There will be three styles of toe in vogue for every-day wear and any one of them will be eminently proper with any of the correct styles of every-day suits de- scribed in the last issue of THE SuxpAY Carr. The three styles to be worn will be “‘the coin,” “the balldog” and ‘‘the me- dium square.” These will lead the fash- ion, but, of course, the square box toe will be allowable this season, as it has in oth- ers, for elderly men and any one else who conscientiously believes that a square- toed shoe is necessary to his comfort, There are so many sufferers from corns in this world that man has become amia- ble in ard to the shape of the boots his MEDIVM BR2AD neighibor wears, alttongh he may be se- vere in his strictures of the same neighbor if be should appear at his club or else- where in a coat of unfashionable cut. Ard 0 into one year and out another, in season and out of season, the square-toed shoe is permissivle, in all styles of upvers and colors, for outing wear or for full dress. But “the coin” will undoubtedly be the popular shoe. It derives its name from the fact that in its widths it 1s rounded off like the semicircle of one of Uncle,8am’s coins. There are *10-cent coins,” ‘‘two- bit coins” and “four-bit coins,’’ accord- ing to the designations given the different widths in this style of shoe. No matter what the width of the toe, however, it is rounded off in the shape of a piece of money, and the uncomfurtable-looking “toothpick” will not be in vogue this season. / “The bulldog” was probably so named on account of its ugliness. Its stanchest TAE-C2IN CORRECT patrons cannot ascribe to it any degree of beauty as far as symmetry of outline goes, but it hasan appearance of comfort and solidity about it that commends it. It s especially adapted 1o rough wear. The **square-tos mediam” is cut on the same order as “the coin,” except that the toe of the shoe, instead of being rounded off, is cut square across. These shoes will be worn in ox blood, wine and chocolate colors principally, although, as in the case of the broad square toe, there will be a demand for the ever dressy black. They will all be lacea. But few low-cut shoes ars worn 1n San Francisco, but any one who wishes to wear a low-cut shoe in accordance with the styles mentioned can do so with per- fect equanimity, for such shoes will be worn in the East. The proper thing for full dress will be a “‘coin’” or “‘medium square toe” shoe, but- toned or made in gaiter fashion. MEDIVM WIBE BULL D°6 STYLES IN SHOES FOR In gloves for men the old reliable “Dent,” with a heavy piquet stitch, in red, tan or brown, will be the correct thing. A dogskin, with one clasp, shoutd be worn for driving or bicycling. The cycling suits which Dame Fashion has decreed that devotces of the wheel who respect her dictates shall wear this on are handsomer than anything the factors have made heretofore for a b cyolist’s dress. The suit should be made either of ‘a cheviot, Irish homespun or a tweed, in solid colors or in fancy plaids with overchecks. One of the prettiest sui:s msde for a 8an Francisco rider this season is of herringbone tweed, which makes up for this dress beautifully. To be strictly correct the coat of the cycling suit should be cut like the orai. nary four-button cutaway sack, with four or'three outside pockets, with pointed or rounded revers, If a steoat is worn— and that would be better form--it should COIN ToL MEN. Dress of beiga wool, and guipure oversilk. The bellskirt of beige wool is trimmed with siX Tows of fancy mobair braid. The corselet of the skirt material is trimmed in the same fashion. almost concealed by a wreath of very beautiful shaded pansies. Toward the tront is a good-sized wing-shaped bow of open gold embroidery on invisible black net. These wings are mixed up in a large bow of grenadine gauze shaded from mauvre to violet. Most of us would also admire a hat, likewise of tulle, at the back ot which is a sort of crested diadem of black gauze striped with tiny steel spangles. On each side of the brim isa smaller crest of the same. The middle or crown is made of two large flat roses, and in front is an aigrette of two roses with their leaves. A Rembrandt of moderate size is in black and white, the brim being of black lace over white lace. The brim is turned up at the left side, znd under this, repos- ing on the hair, is quite a lar ge cluster of the most exquisite roses, and at the back, on the outside, are two large loops of the combined laces, and at the right side is a handsome cluster of fine black tips; “the crown is like a small beret of back gauze, with a stripe of bright straw.” This latter is a decided novelty. The regular sailor shapes are shown in Panama straws, much beautified. 1 saw one last week which had standing at either side, rather toward the front, bunches of shaded Lady Washington gera- niums, in tones of red. A dark-green rib- bon encircled the brim; price $18, quite an absurd figure. Another in place of tne geraniums had bunches of cherries and currants and s green ribbon. It was equally expensive. Such hats are really intended for school- girls, although young women look well in them, A grassy green chapeau encircled with some black crinkly chiffon had two sprighily tips with two rath-r handsome jeweled pins at the base. Price $25. I do not grudge $20 fora French summer hat, but $15 is quite sufficient to give fora pretty tasteful little affair for every-day wear, unless one has a very ample aliow- ance. A queer turban, undoubtedly from Paris direct, is of tomato red chiffon on which are sewn at intervals o7 about every three inches narrow rows of black velvet. Itlooks asthough a great circu- lar piece of the stuff had bsen so treated which had been then sewn around a cir- cular frame after which it had been caught down here and there so as to hold it in vlace. ¢ If I wished such a turban I shonld take another look at the .costly importation and experiment,’ as the best authorities declare that these turbans can readily be made by any woman in the least clever about hats. Embroidered crowns and brims will be in vogue; most of them will be done-in jet and steel. Some hats of silk-edged grenadine have brims lined beneath with rufflings of tulle. Vivid colors predominate, as not only cerise and red but violet, blue and scarlet are being tried on the public. However, there is no doubt but that more subdued tones will prevail later. I have just received news concerning the costumes and hats worn on the.opening day of the Auteuil races. It is buta crumb This Season be double-breasted and made of the same material as the coat and the knickerbock- ers. The latter should be loosely fitting to the knee, but not baggy. The legs should end with a stiff box-cloth band of either two, three or.four buttons. Golf stockngs will still be allowable, but the best-dressed bicyclists will not wear the” horrible abominations this sea. son. Piain ribved hose in solid colors will be worn by those riders who hearken to fashion’s voice, and the knickerbockers will be buttoned over them. A well-fitting shoe of tashionable cut and in any of the fashionable colors should be worn. The cap should be made of the same material as the suit. A Madras shirt and a turned- down white coliar, with link cuffs to match the shirt, and a club tie shonlid complete the attire. ~ This dress will prove to be much more pleasing than tne blousy suits that cyclists have heretofore worn. ofinformation. The correspondent says: ‘I noticed many costumes in which all the colors of the rainbow seemed to have given themselves rendezvous, with hats to match.” The new ribbons that will figure in many a chapeau are very like silken gauze and many varieties in. grass linen effects are admired, especially those adorned with Scotch plaids on delicately tinted grounds. These have a dominate note of color and some are scattered over with polka dots or sprays of minute flowers. Such ribbons have a delightful summer air about them, but naturally they can never take the piace of the silk ones, and it is evident that moire ribbons are to continue in high favor and they will be the ones used on all the smartest hats and gowns until the fall. Iadvise you all to go to the openings that will be held berore long, as some very choice hats will be received, I have not the least doubt, and then even the most conservative of us will joyfully part with a goodly vile of ducats if tempted by a lovely chic bit of a hat. Parasois. This season we may chronicle the ad- vent of at least half a dozen chic and dainty parasols. Beveral of them are de- lightfully odd, but some attract on ac- count of their elegant simplicity, and it is noted that again, during the spring and summer, black and white is to be the most popular combination. I bave just read a description of the novel “Sunburst Parasols,” which I quote for your benefit. They are “made of ac- cordion pleated silk or satin, frequently covered with white accordion pleated tulle. A delicate gray. taffeta silk has an artistic bunch of roses and finished with a large bow of taffeta ribbon profusely or- namented with rosebuds. The most dainty parasols are of white silk with accordion pleated chiffon in billowy cloud effect.” Very costly and heautiful isa parasol of the richest white silk, over which are ap- work of white silk from the center ot which extend a number of rows of black Iace insertions;. these are caught atthe top with & good-sized rosette of lace. Two ruffles of white cuiffon, edzed with very narrow black velvet, surround it, one be. ing sewn on the edge and the other sey. eral inchesabove. Parasols matching our gown will, as usual, be fashionable. Some have just oeen made of moire novelle to maich 1m- porled gowns, the linings and trimmings all harmonizing to perfection. .Indeed, we connot wonder that moire siiks in colors, as well as in white and black, are to be very popular for such purposes. White moire mazkes up into charming parasols when lined with either green, rich rose or turquoise blue. One such lined with turguoise blue is quite fit for Queen Titania, as its handleis incrusted with the most excellent rhine- stones interspersed with turquoise, Again is white moire employed most successfully, this time as a foundation for aseries of English point, a rather cosly trifle, I assure you. A Traveling Library. An insatiate reader on his travels, Na- poleon complained when at Warsaw, in 1807, and when at Boyonne in 1808, that his librarian at Paris did_not keep him weil supplied with books. “The Emperor,” wrote the secretary to Barbier, “wants a portable library of 1000 volumes in 12 mo., printed in good type without margin, and composed as neurly as possible of 40 vol- umes on religion, 40 of epics, 40 of plays, 60 of poetry, 100 of novel, 60 of history, the remainder, to make up 1000, of histori- cal memoirs. The religious works are to be the Qld and New Testament, the Koran, a selection of the works of the fathers of the church, works respecting the Arvans, Calyinists, of mythology, etc. Tha epics are to be Homer, Lucan, ‘lasso, Telema- chus, the Henriade, eic.”” Machiavelli, Fielding, Richardson, Montesquieu, Voj laire, Corneille, Racine and Roussean wex also among the authors mentioned. plied scattered bunches of black lace. A Correct Bicycle Suit. NEW TO-DAY. $300.00 in Cash ) THIS NEW SHIRT WAIST, No. 6999, A 25¢. Pattern FREE to Every One. HOW many words do g 95 you think You can cotrectly spell with the letters in the word . . . than Use each letter as desired, but not more times it appears in “Patterns’—verbs, pronouns, adjec: tives, nouns, adverbs, plurals nlE)wed. ‘Words spelled Lli:g, bllU! having dtlflfll’ellt melhlnfl, count as one word, Use any standard dictionary. legitimate English words 2 An Jorelgn words do p Work it out as follows: Pat, Pen, Pens, Reap, Set, etc. Oir Offer—We willpay §100 for the largest 1ist;. 850 for the sec- rzest; 825 for the third; 810 each for the next five; @5 each for the mext ten, and &1 _each for the next twenty-five. That 1s to say, we, will divide among® forty-three con- testants the ~ag- gregate sum of Bmeric Dot 5 merit. Don’t you think ong of the forty-three.? TR be ur_Purpose—The above reward: for mental efforts are given free Hag without consideration for the pu; of attracting attention to, and increasing the circulation of MODES, by May Mare ton, the most popular, up-todate Fash fon Magazine in the world, Its 3 replete with beautiful filustrations les in ladies’, misses’ it essity in every houschold; the Desl o i e b e v {t invaltab) rellable Fachion Shide o o5 Siwlusely r Conditions—Yon must sen Jour list of WORs 25 cents. (stampy o+ silver) for & Three Months' Trial Sup. Tiption to Movs. ur Extra [nducement—Erery sendin dition to three m Bubscrintion, receivo DY, Dok llustrated above), in any size from 53 to {4 i Alm~The preseut monthly circulation of Mop: oo llvm.;, but SEND IN MODES FASHION MAGAZINE. - LIWREIE SIS ly one by which you can make a nr-.n' it trying on. PATIERNS. 1231 and MARKET ST. 126 O'Farrell ¢ ril 15th next, so the names of Dept. 628 25 cents and a list of 15 words or more will, fa return mail, a pattera of this stylish shirt waist, inches bust measure. Es exceeds 100,000, We afm to malke it 200,000, successful spellers can be published in the YOUR LIST AT ONCE. . For our respousibility we 130 White St., New York. AN AN A A A AN EXCELLENT MEAL Froperly prepared and promptly served, can always be obtained in THE GRILL ROOM OF THE Decidedly the ment in town. Most Popular ] [ [ ] [ ]